I can vouch for toughness of Meteor 75 pro frame with confidence. I flew it in backyard playing catch-me-if-u-can game with my daughter and nephew yesterday. They used badminton racquet to smash my quad. My whoop survived the abuse with flying colors. 😅
Just tried your settings, it flyes amazing! This wonderful whoop arrived to me last week, I took it so I could fly without worries of crashing, still not believing how incredibly fun this mosquito is compared to my bigger quads, freaking lovin' it!
Thank you very much for sharing your settings, I bought a refurbished Meteor 75 Pro which came with basic Betaflight Settings and was very hard to fly. After encouraging myself to do all the stuff you did in your video like flash the escs and so on this thing is a beast and flys exactly as I expected after seeing all this videos. This was a really great help, thanks mate!
Awesome video, so helpful this kind of videos give me idea before I buy something what to expect. You mentioned good points why something like this is better than 3" toothpick. Especially for someone who is beginner learning to fly. This is the best way to start flying FPV. It's light weight, quiet and you don't have to brake the bank 🤣 You getting same experience like flying expensive quat. I would say It's more fun than anything else. Thank you for posting. Have wonderful day 👍😎
On the dynamic notch you also need to move the upper limit up above your noise, so in this case 700 or so. Also, the dynamic notches are slow so if you are using 2 you‘ll get better results setting one as a static and fix it down in the 200 range, doesn’t need to be exact. The resonance on the whoop frames is a little weird where quieting one area seems to have benefit across the noise band. And vis versa leaving a section exposed, 400-700 in this case by not letting the dynamic notches cover the full range, let’s the noise propagate back down to the more problematic frequency range. I don’t have a great explanation of why it works that way but have iteratively found it to be true and reproducible.
Im still learning, so are you suggesting setting Gyro Notch Filter 1, center Hz 200, cutoff at 400Hz. Then setting dynamic notch to 1 count ranging from 400 min to 700 max Hz?
Recon a wider range on dynamic notch needs to see a minimum vibration floor and work based on that? In my mind that’s why you found a wider range works better
Someone recently was asking about why they might get yaw washout (on a meteor 75 pro) after flashing from 24k to 48K - I couldn't help much - but pointed them to your presets on github and saw that the difference between 24v48v96 was just different `thrust_linear`1 Then I found and shared them your video, Whoops: Tuning for Washout. And then I found and shared this video, specific to tuning the exact whoop they were asking about. Thanks for the awesome work 👍👍👍
Would be nice to just get a CLI diff for the Meteor 75 PRO with your settings. I am following the video but then I see you have comments and suggestions and so it would be sweet if we got a "FINAL DRAFT" Meteor75 Pro Ripper!!!! or at least update the video description with the final values ? thanks!
Great Video Mark! I think the 75 Pro is a very good outdoor flyer. Maybe as good as my 85mm 1102 Tri-Blade FULL SEND Build. Maybe better.. Thank you for your great work!
Amazing quad I really like it for indoor flying. Enjoying it way more than 65 size. In my case 48kHz tho gets ESC to 70(C)+ I also have noticed a significant decrease in flight time when in reality for me as for fresh pilot it's very hard to see any significant difference between 48kHz and 96kHz.
Great discussion! I really want to polish the tune for my Meteor75 2022 1S now. It came with ESCs set to 96k, and it does suffer from mild propwash outside. Do you lose much battery putting the setting down, because that's a huge issue on these tiny quads and I'm not willing to give up much flight time to improve this.
Hi, Id love to have Info in this as well! Did u guys find out?? 1 of my motors is not spinning since I did all the steps in the video :/ THANKS FOR HELP
That “overshoot” is late and low frequency so more like lack of FF and P allowing a bunch of error to accumulate which then the accumulated error drives the “overshoot”. The FF and P need to go way up before you can fairly assess the PD balance. Once the tune is close the trade off that needs to be made on whoops is a little lateness on the snap roll versus overshoot on the upslope of the twitch moves.
Did you mean to crank FF to max at the end there or Max out Master? You maxed out the master slider in the actual video. Those values will cause flyway for sure. I've tried...
If your have the walksnail version, which is basically the same, but weighs 5g more, anything else to change? Just tried this over the stock settings and it is a real nice improvement.
I got my meteor85 2s flying great using a happymodel x12 board after the betafpv board just...died. i was flying it one day, landed it, then plugged it in the next day and had no tones, no lights, the board didnt warm up at all. So i put the x12 board in and it flies on rails. I think its because i got the weight down to 39g. Im going to try your settings and see if it works even better
Why did you raise FF by using MM? I tried to tune my Meteor75 Pro and ended up with D-gain 1.8, but PI-gain is 1.0. So it's almost the same. But I checked PIDToolbox with different MM values and 1.3 seems a good balance between D term noise and step response delay
Hello, the drone works really great but sometimes one propellers(always the same) is not spinning or is not spinning well and the led is red when I armed it and doesn't want to take of and fly but I have to arme it and disarme it a couple time before it work. Can you help me?
th-cam.com/video/jWdkl0EHkyU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=3Rit5ztAOVvBdFw- check out that video and increase the Motor Idle percentage. If this doesn't work, tge ESC is probably going bad.
Hey can anyone help me with my issue? I did everything as in the video, and propwash is better when flying and doing freestyle but when I'm hovering or just starting to take off i get a high frequency jello sort of. it's only when hovering on some low thrust. I'm noob in this stuff and to be honest idk what to do.
Did you mean to turn up the master slider all the way?? Cause I did and it seems to fly much better may have made my d a little aggressive tho. Just need to make sure. Thank you brother
Great video and thank you. I have the 65 Pro (2022) with TBS. Unfortunately it was delivered with BF 4.2 and not 4.4. What would you recommend if I was to flash the 65Pro with 4.4.1? Thanks.
Hello, I have the Metoer 75Pro and I just flew it for the first time and it always flies slightly to the right ... why is that and how can I adjust it so that it is rising straight up?
Anyone can point me to some video where someone tuned Mobula 7 1S (new version). Since it does not have blackbox, I am wondering what would be the best way to get some nicer rates/filter settings than the factory ones (if there are any). Also, some nice PIDs would be super welcome too. Thank you so much in advance!
I would load my whoop preset for PIDs. Then you may want to check out this video for tuning: th-cam.com/video/hgLUX5uWaNI/w-d-xo.html Knowing the basics at theuavtech.com/tuning will be CRITICAL for understanding why things are done a certain way and how to tune in general.
@@uavtech - thank you so much Mark! Definitely bookmarking this link. Generally, I'm pretty happy with how it flies out of the box, but I've seen you're doing incredible stuff tuning these little whoops and the difference is amazing! We're talking day and night difference here.. Thank you for all your hard work, greatly appreciated. You're tremendous help to this community!
@@uavtech - Quick thing I've got from the first video... It should really be called DPI instead of PID :) This is sto extensive and interesting in the same time, but I have to admit, overwhelming a bit too. So much to learn, it's like rocket science (that's why not everybody can be good at this). Thank you so much for your hard work!
after flashing bluejay 19.2 several times Gyro RPM filter still doesnt show up in my filters, I also have the same issue with my 5 inch build. Does anyone have any idea on why this is happening?
I can vouch for toughness of Meteor 75 pro frame with confidence. I flew it in backyard playing catch-me-if-u-can game with my daughter and nephew yesterday. They used badminton racquet to smash my quad. My whoop survived the abuse with flying colors. 😅
Just tried your settings, it flyes amazing! This wonderful whoop arrived to me last week, I took it so I could fly without worries of crashing, still not believing how incredibly fun this mosquito is compared to my bigger quads, freaking lovin' it!
How much flight time does it give you with the confirmations of the video?
Thank you for your work! Used these exact settings and flies on rails, night and day difference. - Meteor 85 2s
awesome, i literally just copied your settings into my custom 75mm avatar whoop and it flies better than ever!
Thank you very much for sharing your settings, I bought a refurbished Meteor 75 Pro which came with basic Betaflight Settings and was very hard to fly. After encouraging myself to do all the stuff you did in your video like flash the escs and so on this thing is a beast and flys exactly as I expected after seeing all this videos. This was a really great help, thanks mate!
Awesome video, so helpful this kind of videos give me idea before I buy something what to expect. You mentioned good points why something like this is better than 3" toothpick. Especially for someone who is beginner learning to fly. This is the best way to start flying FPV. It's light weight, quiet and you don't have to brake the bank 🤣 You getting same experience like flying expensive quat. I would say It's more fun than anything else.
Thank you for posting.
Have wonderful day 👍😎
On the dynamic notch you also need to move the upper limit up above your noise, so in this case 700 or so. Also, the dynamic notches are slow so if you are using 2 you‘ll get better results setting one as a static and fix it down in the 200 range, doesn’t need to be exact. The resonance on the whoop frames is a little weird where quieting one area seems to have benefit across the noise band. And vis versa leaving a section exposed, 400-700 in this case by not letting the dynamic notches cover the full range, let’s the noise propagate back down to the more problematic frequency range. I don’t have a great explanation of why it works that way but have iteratively found it to be true and reproducible.
Im still learning, so are you suggesting setting Gyro Notch Filter 1, center Hz 200, cutoff at 400Hz. Then setting dynamic notch to 1 count ranging from 400 min to 700 max Hz?
Recon a wider range on dynamic notch needs to see a minimum vibration floor and work based on that? In my mind that’s why you found a wider range works better
I'm really liking the 85 Meteor. Gose slow and fast.
I just got one too and with these settings she's on rails 👌
Someone recently was asking about why they might get yaw washout (on a meteor 75 pro) after flashing from 24k to 48K - I couldn't help much - but pointed them to your presets on github and saw that the difference between 24v48v96 was just different `thrust_linear`1
Then I found and shared them your video, Whoops: Tuning for Washout.
And then I found and shared this video, specific to tuning the exact whoop they were asking about.
Thanks for the awesome work 👍👍👍
Dr. UAV Tech or: How I Learned To Stop Tuning and Love The Presets
Thanks for all the info and tips, Mark! 😊
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I dream of someone making a perfect video about this. Thank you so much.
Would be nice to just get a CLI diff for the Meteor 75 PRO with your settings. I am following the video but then I see you have comments and suggestions and so it would be sweet if we got a "FINAL DRAFT" Meteor75 Pro Ripper!!!! or at least update the video description with the final values ? thanks!
I want It too if IS possible
Great Video Mark! I think the 75 Pro is a very good outdoor flyer. Maybe as good as my 85mm 1102 Tri-Blade FULL SEND Build. Maybe better.. Thank you for your great work!
Thanks
Amazing quad I really like it for indoor flying. Enjoying it way more than 65 size. In my case 48kHz tho gets ESC to 70(C)+ I also have noticed a significant decrease in flight time when in reality for me as for fresh pilot it's very hard to see any significant difference between 48kHz and 96kHz.
Great discussion! I really want to polish the tune for my Meteor75 2022 1S now. It came with ESCs set to 96k, and it does suffer from mild propwash outside. Do you lose much battery putting the setting down, because that's a huge issue on these tiny quads and I'm not willing to give up much flight time to improve this.
At 11:00 you said to crank up the FF and you increased the master slider, is this an error or did you mean to crank up the master?
I meant to crank FF, but Master does need to be moved up so D gains get into the 70/80 range.
@@uavtech Is it only the Stick response slider you meant to adjust? Pitch tracking affects FF as well so where should that be?
In the ESC configurator settings, should the 'ESC Power Rating' be set to 1S instead of 2S+ ?
did you find out?
Hi, Id love to have Info in this as well! Did u guys find out?? 1 of my motors is not spinning since I did all the steps in the video :/ THANKS FOR HELP
Love the video but could you make one of these for the normal meteor 75?
Nice 👍 thanks
That “overshoot” is late and low frequency so more like lack of FF and P allowing a bunch of error to accumulate which then the accumulated error drives the “overshoot”. The FF and P need to go way up before you can fairly assess the PD balance. Once the tune is close the trade off that needs to be made on whoops is a little lateness on the snap roll versus overshoot on the upslope of the twitch moves.
Did you mean to crank FF to max at the end there or Max out Master? You maxed out the master slider in the actual video. Those values will cause flyway for sure. I've tried...
Yeah, i see that. I meant to slide up FF and not Master. That said, it didn't cause a fly away on this puppy.
@@uavtech Puppies are generally pretty fluffy and take well to excessive amounts of attention 😜
If your have the walksnail version, which is basically the same, but weighs 5g more, anything else to change? Just tried this over the stock settings and it is a real nice improvement.
I got my meteor85 2s flying great using a happymodel x12 board after the betafpv board just...died. i was flying it one day, landed it, then plugged it in the next day and had no tones, no lights, the board didnt warm up at all. So i put the x12 board in and it flies on rails. I think its because i got the weight down to 39g. Im going to try your settings and see if it works even better
I gonna use a Mobeetle6 1S for indoor and a Meteor75 Pro 1S for outside.
New sub here wonderful man great video
At 11minutes into the video you tell that you crank up feedforward but you move the Master slider up. So what is correct ?
Do you have something similar to this for the whoopfly16 by sub250.
Do you think I can just copy all the settings for the Mobula 8?
Great video, thanks! Do these custom settings apply to 65pro version or will they be a bit different?
Should.
Why do you put the beacon at 80 and not at maximum power?
👍🏻👍🏻
I got a ez pilot pro doing alright on 96k (for that battery). P and I over 100 is necessary.
Nice and hard to know and understand all of this. How about meteor 65 pro? Can be done something to make it better?
Yup
Why did you raise FF by using MM? I tried to tune my Meteor75 Pro and ended up with D-gain 1.8, but PI-gain is 1.0. So it's almost the same. But I checked PIDToolbox with different MM values and 1.3 seems a good balance between D term noise and step response delay
Can this be used on 65mm?
Hello, the drone works really great but sometimes one propellers(always the same) is not spinning or is not spinning well and the led is red when I armed it and doesn't want to take of and fly but I have to arme it and disarme it a couple time before it work. Can you help me?
th-cam.com/video/jWdkl0EHkyU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=3Rit5ztAOVvBdFw-
check out that video and increase the Motor Idle percentage. If this doesn't work, tge ESC is probably going bad.
@@uavtech thanks
Hey can anyone help me with my issue? I did everything as in the video, and propwash is better when flying and doing freestyle but when I'm hovering or just starting to take off i get a high frequency jello sort of. it's only when hovering on some low thrust. I'm noob in this stuff and to be honest idk what to do.
Did you mean to turn up the master slider all the way?? Cause I did and it seems to fly much better may have made my d a little aggressive tho. Just need to make sure. Thank you brother
I did not, but yes it does!!!
So do I crank my feedforward the slider above the master all the way up and turn the master slider back down to where it was??
Great video and thank you.
I have the 65 Pro (2022) with TBS. Unfortunately it was delivered with BF 4.2 and not 4.4.
What would you recommend if I was to flash the 65Pro with 4.4.1?
Thanks.
save a DUMP and DIFF ALL and try to get onto BF 4.4.x (or even 4.3.x), just for the sliders, etc...
@@uavtech What would you recommend setting the sliders at for the 65 in comparison to the 75?
Sorry but I’m not good with tuning nor confident at it.
@@samavella8831 check if there are any presets
Hi, do you recommend those settings with the 65 pro 2022 ??
Yes
Anyone else with a stock Meteor75 Pro get fly-aways upon arming, with the Master multiplier maxed? I had to turn mine down to 1.7
im prolly ordering this tonight, will this work with the zorro radiomaster and the fatshark scout? thanks anyone who responds
Scount = YES
Zorro if the radio protocol matches = ELRS or FrSky, etc...
Hello, I have the Metoer 75Pro and I just flew it for the first time and it always flies slightly to the right ... why is that and how can I adjust it so that it is rising straight up?
That’s normal
like it drifts to the right? Yaws to the right or laterally moves to the right?
Anyone can point me to some video where someone tuned Mobula 7 1S (new version). Since it does not have blackbox, I am wondering what would be the best way to get some nicer rates/filter settings than the factory ones (if there are any). Also, some nice PIDs would be super welcome too. Thank you so much in advance!
I would load my whoop preset for PIDs. Then you may want to check out this video for tuning: th-cam.com/video/hgLUX5uWaNI/w-d-xo.html
Knowing the basics at theuavtech.com/tuning will be CRITICAL for understanding why things are done a certain way and how to tune in general.
@@uavtech - thank you so much Mark! Definitely bookmarking this link. Generally, I'm pretty happy with how it flies out of the box, but I've seen you're doing incredible stuff tuning these little whoops and the difference is amazing! We're talking day and night difference here.. Thank you for all your hard work, greatly appreciated. You're tremendous help to this community!
@@uavtech - Quick thing I've got from the first video... It should really be called DPI instead of PID :) This is sto extensive and interesting in the same time, but I have to admit, overwhelming a bit too. So much to learn, it's like rocket science (that's why not everybody can be good at this). Thank you so much for your hard work!
Did you mean crank Feed forward or master multiplier?
Yes
How to make whoops fly better: put their guts on an open prop frame and use larger propellers.
yeah, but then it is not a whoop. 🙂
after flashing bluejay 19.2 several times Gyro RPM filter still doesnt show up in my filters, I also have the same issue with my 5 inch build. Does anyone have any idea on why this is happening?
You have to turn on Bi-Direction Dshot in the Motors Tab.