I used this video to replace the brakes on my 2000 Mazda Miata. It was exactly the same. Brakes pads are one of the things that virtually anyone with basic mechanical skills can do. When I realized how easy it was I vowed I would never pay a mechanic to replace brake pads again. Excellent video.
Thanks for posting the vid. Here are just some extra helpful points to remember: 1 - Always replace pads in pairs and on both sides of the car at the same time. This prevents a brake-imbalance. 2 - If replacing worn-out disc rotors, put in new pads also (even if there's lots of wear left in the old pads). 3 - Finish changing the pads on one side fully first. Pump the brake pedal a few times with the engine running. Only then start work on the other side. (This stops you from pushing excess fluid back up into the reservoir.) 4 - Use high-temperature Molybdenum brake grease on the backing plate/shim, and abutment points. Grease on sliding pins must be rubber-safe, so you don't damage the boots. 5 - A great thread penetrating fluid is a mixture of ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) combined with Acetone. 6 - Sometimes the inner-brake pad will wear a lot faster than the outer one. (Also... sometimes inner and outer pads are not interchangeable. There will be different raised dots/rivets (or ears) on the backing plate. Check before you start the work. 7 - On models of Protege/323 with rear discs, the pistons can't be pushed in like on the front. Piston must be rotated?? 8 - Don't forget to check the brake reservoir level when you're finished. Top up to the MAX line if necessary and put the cap back on securely! 9 - With the new pads installed, be gentle on the brakes for about 300 miles, so they bed-in properly.
Just a quick pointer for anyone interested. At 4:30 , cars with ABS can have the ABS mechanism damaged by pushing the fluid back into the reservoir with this method. The correct way to do this is to connect a hose to the brake bleed nipple on the caliper, loosen it off, then push the piston back into the body and you will see the fluid leave through the bleed nipple. Top up your reservoir after, if needed!
Just wanted to give you a big "Thanks!" for this video. Especially 3:23 which shows the removal of the spring clips. I had no idea where these went but thanks to your video, I was able to complete my brake job.
You are right about not having to bleed brake lines if just doing pads. However, I have learned the hard way with having owned and worked many Mazdas that whenever you have an opportunity to wash old brake fluid down and out of your calipers it is a good idea to do so. I don't know what it is but I have had to replace more seized calipers (pistons) on Mazdas than I care to think about. And of course my pads and rotors get destroyed in the process. I can have decent looking fluid in the reservoir but when I pull a seized caliper and dump it out the fluid coming out is corroded looking. Since I have made it a policy of mine to always push old fluid out and add fresh up top, I have had much better luck with my Calipers lasting longer. Also I have always just pushed the piston in like you do but I have seen lots of videos that say best practice is to pop the bleeder first or you can damage ABS systems by pushing junk fluid up through the lines.
The little nobs on the back of the brake pad are for shields. You don't have all the hardware here. The springs are to ensure the pads spring outwards when the brake is released... otherwise the pads might always be in contact with the rotor. The springs are pretty important hardware too. Always make sure you have all the hardware. Other than the missing hardware this is a really good video. Thumbs up!
Thanks for making your videos nice and simple.....and thanks for continuing to talk through the video as opposed to playing music throughout....sucks when people do that.
Thanks, nicely presented . Just did my 2002 323 protege front pads. i also do all my own repairs but always check to see if theres any tutorials and i would never have thought the 8 mm allen key was there so i would have been scratching my head for a while. My pads had metal plates with them so i put them on the new pads. Wondering if they were shims added later to take up some of the wear. Did forget to put the wire clips back on one side so pulled it apart again and put them on because it seems they apply pressure to the top and bottom of the pads pushing them away from the rotor when the brake is not applied. Only cost 44.00 AU for the new pads. Of course they always try to sell you new rotors as well. Now to tackle the rear which i believe needs a special tool.
I've got to change mine next month. Went to Les Schwab to get new front tires and they wanted to charge me I think 150 at least for the pads and a couple other things. I mean they do a good job there but I can't afford that, I'll just do it myself. Least I think I can do it myself.
These are the brakes on my 2003 Mazda. They were different in 2000, and the Hayes manual that says it includes 2003 does not include these brakes. Thank you SO MUCH for posting this. I've now got the caliper bolt allen wrenched out. Next to get it pried loose. Any good places to push or adjust to get it open?
If you wanna go a little faster, you can push the piston in with a big flat blade screwdriver before you take the caliper off via the middle hole of the caliper.
auto shop tried to charge me $175 to change my brakes, autozone has a Pair of brake pads (Front) For $25 AFTER TAXES, So if you have a couple tools (Like in the video) and THIS video, you can change your brakes for $30 or less, price is INCLUDING the brake grease, THANK YOU SOOO MUCH FOR THIS VIDEO I AM NOT A GEARHEAD!!!!
Hi , how much is usually cost fo doing rear brake , i just have the rear right caliper problem on my mazda millenia , do i need to buy a new caliper or just buy a used 1 on ebay ?
Hey, thanks for the video. I was able to change the brake pads and rotors on my Mazda 5--almost identical to the Protogé. Have a question, though. Now there's a sort of rubbing or slight thumping noise coming from the driver's side. When I accelerate, it goes away but returns when I let up the accelerator and a bit louder when I brake, unless I break hard, then I don't hear it at all. Any idea what that is? I've heard it could be because they're so new, but from what I can tell, it doesn't happen on the passesnger's side. Thanks!
I just changed my passenger side brake pads but when i was finished my caliper was loose that u can wiggle it back and forth on the rotor now when i depress on the brakes at a complete stop a lil my brake pads on that side vibrates back against the rotos do u know why please help ?
Not opening the bleeder while retracting the caliper piston pushes that blackened contaminated fluid through the ABS system and back up into the master cylinder. That's the dead giveaway - a dark master cylinder reservoir. Opening up the bleeder while retracting the piston allows fresh fluid to fill the caliper when depressing the brakes after closing the bleeder and reassembly. Be sure to top off fluid both before and after depressing the brake pedal the first time after installing new pads.
On my mazda 929 1988 I'm having problems getting bolt off on passenger side. Driver side wasn't too hard. Stupid question I know but does it unscrew toward front of car or rear of car? Didn't have this problem on drivers side. Since its not coming loose after hitting with a hammer I'm questioning myself. Help..
My passenger side brake makes a rattle/grinding sound when i lightly press the brake....is that due to the anti-rattle clips or the abutment clips being worn out?
Had mechanic run the bolt right thru the rubber boot when putting it back together.Found it after buying the car from a lot that had this done.must of just swung the caliper down and just tightened the bolt without looking.
High temperature grease (Molybdenum based) on the back of the pads only. Also some molybdenum on the abutment points / retainer clips. Copper grease seems to have gone out of fashion, and is no longer recommended. For slider pins make sure to remove all of the old grease, and then apply a high temperature brake grease that's kind to rubber. You don't want to damage your boots. If you accidentally get grease on the disc rotor or friction surface of the pads, remove immediately with brake cleaning fluid.
Thanks for your information. You should add an amendment to your video, the Allen number is 7mm but you said it's 8mm which caused I have to re-mount the tire and go back to Low's to buy a new 7mm Allen. Otherwise all are great. Thanks.
***** thanks man, i really appreciate it!, within the last 36 or so hours, the front have started to make a slight grinding noise, so i figured, better to change them now before its too late, and the rotors get to worn, or worn at all for that matter. My brother is a service writer for Garber automall, and reccomends it done immediatley. Shouldnt be too hard of a job.
For any future travelers, no, it's not. There's a allen screw you turn to retract the piston in the back instead of compressing the piston with a clamp. Other than that, mostly the same. There's also the E-brake cable, but it doesn't really cause problems.
When doing the rear you have to re adjust the e brake as well so pull your e brake and tighten it till your wheel doesn't move. Put you a 4 way on the lug and try to turn it
I have a 1995 BA Mazda 323 Protege, 1.8L, 5 Speed Manual. They are great cars. Just replaced the clutch, it lasted 23 years. Car is running beautifully with under 250K on the clock. Good car to work on yourself.
Pads didn't come with the pads. At least my pad set didn't include them. Some kits do, my friend bought a kit for his Mini and it had those clips included.
i get this high pitched noise when i drive, even without braking and when i turn my front wheel straight it disappears, then comes back when i turn the wheel to the left. Any idea what is causing that? Thanks man
hello great video. I have one question if anyone can please help me out, I own a 2004 Mazda 6 v6 and I need a brake shoe replacement, I took it to a mechanic he told me I needed a special "key" to remove it, I called the dealer and they said the same thing about needing this special "key" can anybody confirm this? is rather try it myself than to pay up the ass just for a pad replacement, thank you for any responses
+oscar A5041 Hmm. Doesn't sound right to be but who knows. I'd take off the wheel and take a peek to see. You'll have to take the wheel off eventually anyway. Thanks for watching BTW!
A bit brutal on the ratchet handle. Use a hex key and a small pipe for a handle, you have more control, the ratchet will live on and on. keep makin vids, for the "you can do it"
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I used this video to replace the brakes on my 2000 Mazda Miata. It was exactly the same. Brakes pads are one of the things that virtually anyone with basic mechanical skills can do. When I realized how easy it was I vowed I would never pay a mechanic to replace brake pads again. Excellent video.
Awesome to hear, I really appreciate you watching!
Im too poor to choose so im pretty much forced to do it myself
Thanks for posting the vid. Here are just some extra helpful points to remember:
1 - Always replace pads in pairs and on both sides of the car at the same time. This prevents a brake-imbalance.
2 - If replacing worn-out disc rotors, put in new pads also (even if there's lots of wear left in the old pads).
3 - Finish changing the pads on one side fully first. Pump the brake pedal a few times with the engine running. Only then start work on the other side. (This stops you from pushing excess fluid back up into the reservoir.)
4 - Use high-temperature Molybdenum brake grease on the backing plate/shim, and abutment points. Grease on sliding pins must be rubber-safe, so you don't damage the boots.
5 - A great thread penetrating fluid is a mixture of ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) combined with Acetone.
6 - Sometimes the inner-brake pad will wear a lot faster than the outer one. (Also... sometimes inner and outer pads are not interchangeable. There will be different raised dots/rivets (or ears) on the backing plate. Check before you start the work.
7 - On models of Protege/323 with rear discs, the pistons can't be pushed in like on the front. Piston must be rotated??
8 - Don't forget to check the brake reservoir level when you're finished. Top up to the MAX line if necessary and put the cap back on securely!
9 - With the new pads installed, be gentle on the brakes for about 300 miles, so they bed-in properly.
Just a quick pointer for anyone interested. At 4:30 , cars with ABS can have the ABS mechanism damaged by pushing the fluid back into the reservoir with this method.
The correct way to do this is to connect a hose to the brake bleed nipple on the caliper, loosen it off, then push the piston back into the body and you will see the fluid leave through the bleed nipple. Top up your reservoir after, if needed!
won't hurt anything if you push it in SLOWLY
Just wanted to give you a big "Thanks!" for this video. Especially 3:23 which shows the removal of the spring clips. I had no idea where these went but thanks to your video, I was able to complete my brake job.
Awesome! I really appreciate you watching!
No fancy editing needed. You did great. Going to try this myself on my mazda
Thank you for posting a detailed video from the beginning to the end. It was really helpful.
Thank you very much for this! It's criminal how mechanics and dealers always want to change the rotors when there is probably no need for it.
I didn't know you dont have to open the bleeder to push the piston back. Extremely helpful. Thanks.
You are right about not having to bleed brake lines if just doing pads. However, I have learned the hard way with having owned and worked many Mazdas that whenever you have an opportunity to wash old brake fluid down and out of your calipers it is a good idea to do so. I don't know what it is but I have had to replace more seized calipers (pistons) on Mazdas than I care to think about. And of course my pads and rotors get destroyed in the process. I can have decent looking fluid in the reservoir but when I pull a seized caliper and dump it out the fluid coming out is corroded looking. Since I have made it a policy of mine to always push old fluid out and add fresh up top, I have had much better luck with my Calipers lasting longer. Also I have always just pushed the piston in like you do but I have seen lots of videos that say best practice is to pop the bleeder first or you can damage ABS systems by pushing junk fluid up through the lines.
Thank you very much that was straight to the point and no off camera shots of you taking anything off while you were doing the video..
The little nobs on the back of the brake pad are for shields. You don't have all the hardware here. The springs are to ensure the pads spring outwards when the brake is released... otherwise the pads might always be in contact with the rotor. The springs are pretty important hardware too. Always make sure you have all the hardware. Other than the missing hardware this is a really good video. Thumbs up!
Thanks for making your videos nice and simple.....and thanks for continuing to talk through the video as opposed to playing music throughout....sucks when people do that.
Thanks, I appreciate it!
Thanks, nicely presented . Just did my 2002 323 protege front pads. i also do all my own repairs but always check to see if theres any tutorials and i would never have thought the 8 mm allen key was there so i would have been scratching my head for a while.
My pads had metal plates with them so i put them on the new pads. Wondering if they were shims added later to take up some of the wear. Did forget to put the wire clips back on one side so pulled it apart again and put them on because it seems they apply pressure to the top and bottom of the pads pushing them away from the rotor when the brake is not applied. Only cost 44.00 AU for the new pads. Of course they always try to sell you new rotors as well. Now to tackle the rear which i believe needs a special tool.
Ronald Nightingale Thanks, I really appreciate it! If you have rear drums, here is the video on those. th-cam.com/video/AeTOxQLR3ZE/w-d-xo.html
Xneree l :8&,* (
Those criminals at the car wash wanted like $550 to do this! GET THE F OUTTA HERE!!! Thanks a lot for this great video.
John
John
I've got to change mine next month. Went to Les Schwab to get new front tires and they wanted to charge me I think 150 at least for the pads and a couple other things. I mean they do a good job there but I can't afford that, I'll just do it myself. Least I think I can do it myself.
Hey I just wanted to say thank you for this post it made changing them a lot easier. Especially since I'm not to handy with doing things on the car.
Thanks for watching!
Anytime. You helped me out a lot with this. Now I need to prepare myself for toughs drum brakes lol
just did my brakes exactly like that and its a flawless victory !!!! XD thx for the vid :)
Waahaarg Awesome!
Thanks for posting this...it saved my day as I would have taken the two larger caliper bolts, and messed up everything!
+Dave Reece Thanks for watching!
Yours is the best video. Got it done myself. Thank you!
Awsome Video man Great Discription. Best of all No Camera Shaking.:.)
These are the brakes on my 2003 Mazda. They were different in 2000, and the Hayes manual that says it includes 2003 does not include these brakes. Thank you SO MUCH for posting this. I've now got the caliper bolt allen wrenched out. Next to get it pried loose. Any good places to push or adjust to get it open?
And I'll confirm that it's an 8mm Allen wrench end on mine.
You're not greasing the bottom caliper? Couldn't that seize up if not greased? Thanks . . .
NOTE: Please remember to put the lid back on the brake fluid container before attempting to drive anywhere.
. . . . and re-check the brake reservoir level after pumping the brake pedal. Top it up with Dot-4 if necessary to bring it up to the MAX line.
If you wanna go a little faster, you can push the piston in with a big flat blade screwdriver before you take the caliper off via the middle hole of the caliper.
Good tip!
Awesome, saved me so much time. I really appreciate it, thank you!!!
Great video, thanks! I always like a guy that still gets use out of a broken tool (the c-clamp).......
ChevySS1968 Thanks! Yeah, I've had that c-clamp for years and just can't let go of her!
Great video. Can I use a multipurpose grease instead of a brake grease that you mentioned in the video?
Thanks!
The brake grease seems to work better but I have used multipurpose with good results.
Thanks.
excellent. good video mate .
Thanks!
Imma keep this video handy for my car thank you very much
Thank you for this video!! saved me a crap ton of time!!
+Lynette Klinglesmith Thanks for watching!
You make it look easy! but I think I will let the shop change mine anyway :)
It doesn't hurt to try!
Mike Doyle - Great video - makes a nasty job simple. Now to try my own luck.
Thank you, good luck!
auto shop tried to charge me $175 to change my brakes, autozone has a Pair of brake pads (Front) For $25 AFTER TAXES, So if you have a couple tools (Like in the video) and THIS video, you can change your brakes for $30 or less, price is INCLUDING the brake grease, THANK YOU SOOO MUCH FOR THIS VIDEO I AM NOT A GEARHEAD!!!!
Thanks for watching Iam, well said!
Hi , how much is usually cost fo doing rear brake , i just have the rear right caliper problem on my mazda millenia , do i need to buy a new caliper or just buy a used 1 on ebay ?
You can buy used as long as it's in good condition. If you're replacing a caliper you will need to bleed the brakes.
nice video now I know the size allen that I need thanks
Thank You this very much helped 10/10 5 star Video ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Thanks mate. It was easy to follow even for a girl like me. 👍
Hey, thanks for the video. I was able to change the brake pads and rotors on my Mazda 5--almost identical to the Protogé. Have a question, though. Now there's a sort of rubbing or slight thumping noise coming from the driver's side. When I accelerate, it goes away but returns when I let up the accelerator and a bit louder when I brake, unless I break hard, then I don't hear it at all. Any idea what that is? I've heard it could be because they're so new, but from what I can tell, it doesn't happen on the passesnger's side. Thanks!
Corderito It could be because they are new, how hard is the thumping?
It's not very loud, and in fact, now that it's been a few days, it seems to be diminishing. I think it may because they're new. Thanks for your help!
Corderito Awesome!
Is this the same for mazda truck 2006 b3000 V6? Great video!!!
It should be very similar. Thank you!
Does this apply to my Protege MP3 as well? It's the racing beat tuned model
Yep, should be the same or very close.
No nonsense video thumbs up from me.
I just changed my passenger side brake pads but when i was finished my caliper was loose that u can wiggle it back and forth on the rotor now when i depress on the brakes at a complete stop a lil my brake pads on that side vibrates back against the rotos do u know why please help ?
Make sure the caliper is secured to the bracket.
Your awesome! If we all shared our knowledge, we would all save a little money. And, even better, learn and understand.
Thanks, I appreciate it!
Not opening the bleeder while retracting the caliper piston pushes that blackened contaminated fluid through the ABS system and back up into the master cylinder. That's the dead giveaway - a dark master cylinder reservoir. Opening up the bleeder while retracting the piston allows fresh fluid to fill the caliper when depressing the brakes after closing the bleeder and reassembly. Be sure to top off fluid both before and after depressing the brake pedal the first time after installing new pads.
I'm gonna give this a go due to your video.. thank you
On my mazda 929 1988 I'm having problems getting bolt off on passenger side. Driver side wasn't too hard. Stupid question I know but does it unscrew toward front of car or rear of car? Didn't have this problem on drivers side. Since its not coming loose after hitting with a hammer I'm questioning myself. Help..
Counter clockwise on both sides. They could be seized on there so you may have to use some penetrating fluid.
***** Thanks for the reply. I"ll give it another go.
My passenger side brake makes a rattle/grinding sound when i lightly press the brake....is that due to the anti-rattle clips or the abutment clips being worn out?
Hmm.. Could be those, the rotor, broken pad, wheel bearing, etc.. I'd take the wheel off and have a look.
Maulik Patel im havin same problem it happens when comin to a stop you ever figure out what it was?
Sweet thank you. This will definitely help.
Great Video. Very helpful,
So I changed both brakes but the pressure didn’t build back up in the peddle
Would this be similar for a Mazda B300 Pickup or would I want to watch another video?
Did you ever find the answer to question about the mazda 3000 pick up truck?
thank you so much for the tutorial!!!
Thanks for watching!
I lost one of the wires that hold the pads is any problem if only use one of them?
I've done it before. You really should have both of them but they will work without them.
Looking at it from the outside, should it appear that the new pads are touching the rotors?
Yeah, they should almost rub especially when new
Thank you for the kind reply!
Ccc Ttt You're welcome!
Great imfo,thankyou nice work!!
..peace😇
Wouldnt leaving the reservoir for brakes open lead to air being in there and moisture which is bad?
jonny2tim3 No unless you let it run dry.
Really , its not a $200,000 car
If you left the cap off for a few hours maybe. This is a 20 minute job per side.
today, i took both front tires off, i was about to get that caliper off but i realized i dont have that damn allen 8mm key
lord
Can you confirm it's a 8mm not a 7mm?
You can undo 2 normal bolts and take the caliper off. It's almost as easy.
What year is this Mazda? I'm asking basically to see if a 1999 one is the process.
2001, should be pretty close to the same.
Okay thanks. I did the break job already. Just wasn't sure if It was 100% the same but it was. Thank you
Had mechanic run the bolt right thru the rubber boot when putting it back together.Found it after buying the car from a lot that had this done.must of just swung the caliper down and just tightened the bolt without looking.
+newyota1 Yeah, probably in a hurry. The rubber boot keep debris out making it easier for the next change..
Fantastic!!! Thank you!!!
He did mention that...
i use anti-seize on the pad, cause i heard the rotor doesnt like grease/oil?
Correct. Grease on the bolts are fine but not pads.
High temperature grease (Molybdenum based) on the back of the pads only. Also some molybdenum on the abutment points / retainer clips. Copper grease seems to have gone out of fashion, and is no longer recommended.
For slider pins make sure to remove all of the old grease, and then apply a high temperature brake grease that's kind to rubber. You don't want to damage your boots.
If you accidentally get grease on the disc rotor or friction surface of the pads, remove immediately with brake cleaning fluid.
Hello again , so all i need is brake grease that's it ?
You'll want the grease and pads. Rotors if yours are worn or bent.
*****
i just changed the rear of my brake and it has no clip at all on the pad is that normal or not ?
thehegt Tr Some have them, some don't. Should be fine.
*****
thank you so much for everything .
thehegt Tr You're welcome!
Hey I have a 98 mazda protege 1.5 is it the same to change the pads?
Should be.
I have a 95 Mazda protege what tools do i need for the front brakes
Basic socket set and a hex set. I don't recall the size on the hex's.
How do you change mazda 3 2007 BYK maxx sport brakes?
This is a very Good an Short Video 🙂
the passanger side rotor has a groove in it should it be replaced?
i saw that on my car inspecting my brakes
Really just depends on how deep the grooves are. If they are light grooves I wouldn't worry about them.
I spent 75$ and had my rear breaks done. But I'm confused, on my 1999 Protege. The rear brakes are drum, and the front disc.
Correct
Do i need bleed after?
Nice video, Thanks a lot
Thanks a very helpful video
THANKS SO MUCH!
You're welcome!
Thanks, owesome explanation.!!
Thanks for upload this video its very helpful
+Ronaldo Natad Thanks for watching!
why would it be grinding off my rotor in the back and making a loud grinding sound
Pads are low and the indicator (metal tab that squeaks to let you know they need changed) is grinding into the rotor?
Thanks for your information. You should add an amendment to your video, the Allen number is 7mm but you said it's 8mm which caused I have to re-mount the tire and go back to Low's to buy a new 7mm Allen. Otherwise all are great. Thanks.
Hmm.. Thanks for watching! Actually I just changed them again recently and it's an 8mm on this one. Wonder if they changed midyear or something?
@@Johnnysshop Mine is an 8mm allen key too. (2002 model with discs both front and rear.)
Thanks Dude! just $25aud both front wheels.
+cristian salazar Awesome!
Great video.
Thanks!
the wear indicator should always be on the trailing edge(top). they put the indicator on the leading edge, that is why it broke off.
Will this be the same on a 1999 Mazda Protégé?
Yep, should be!
***** and 1996?
Evan Spankowski Should be pretty close.
I need to replace the front pads on an 86 f150, same proccess? I can afford to take it to a brake shop.
They are similar, not exact but this should get you through it.
***** thanks man, i really appreciate it!, within the last 36 or so hours, the front have started to make a slight grinding noise, so i figured, better to change them now before its too late, and the rotors get to worn, or worn at all for that matter. My brother is a service writer for Garber automall, and reccomends it done immediatley. Shouldnt be too hard of a job.
***** thank you for the quick reply as well sir!
David Young Good luck, hope you get her done!
the areas your greasing at each end of the pad are called buttment points..... so ya know
Ahh. Good to know
"Abutment points" if you want to save yourself 15 mins of Googling!
Hi, what year protege is this car ? Any one know?
So is the rear the same?
For any future travelers, no, it's not. There's a allen screw you turn to retract the piston in the back instead of compressing the piston with a clamp. Other than that, mostly the same. There's also the E-brake cable, but it doesn't really cause problems.
When doing the rear you have to re adjust the e brake as well so pull your e brake and tighten it till your wheel doesn't move. Put you a 4 way on the lug and try to turn it
my caliper stock on the guide,any idea to remove the caliper
I would say some heat but you will need to replace the seals if it gets too hot.
thanks,I think is better to replace the caliper and the bracket
Still maintaining the 2003 protege in 2022
I have a 1995 BA Mazda 323 Protege, 1.8L, 5 Speed Manual. They are great cars. Just replaced the clutch, it lasted 23 years. Car is running beautifully with under 250K on the clock. Good car to work on yourself.
Thanks, on my way to change mine :-))
Good luck!
Why didn't you change the clips out.?
Pads didn't come with the pads. At least my pad set didn't include them. Some kits do, my friend bought a kit for his Mini and it had those clips included.
Many thx for this video:))).
Thanks for watching!
how much would a shop charge for this? :D
+Brismo7 Depends but around here $200 or so.
i get this high pitched noise when i drive, even without braking and when i turn my front wheel straight it disappears, then comes back when i turn the wheel to the left. Any idea what is causing that? Thanks man
Could be a wheel bearing going bad or just cheap brake pads..
Was the rotor still within spec? It didn't need to be turned?
Yeah, it was fine.
Thank you !!
I'm an idiot thanks for saving me
hello great video. I have one question if anyone can please help me out, I own a 2004 Mazda 6 v6 and I need a brake shoe replacement, I took it to a mechanic he told me I needed a special "key" to remove it, I called the dealer and they said the same thing about needing this special "key" can anybody confirm this? is rather try it myself than to pay up the ass just for a pad replacement, thank you for any responses
+oscar A5041 Hmm. Doesn't sound right to be but who knows. I'd take off the wheel and take a peek to see. You'll have to take the wheel off eventually anyway. Thanks for watching BTW!
Could they be referring to the McGard wheel nut key, to remove the wheel?
What about the rear drums?
Didn't need changed. I hate working on drums actually.
Cómo monta pastilla tracerras de Mazda 3
What year model is that car?
My Allen bolt is seized on there 😅
A bit brutal on the ratchet handle. Use a hex key and a small pipe for a handle, you have more control, the ratchet will live on and on. keep makin vids, for the "you can do it"
True but when they fail I just exchange them. Haven't had one fail yet oddly enough. lol. I have various breaker bars but was too lazy to use em. lol.