Hi !! Something I want to share in my upgrade experience : Last year I bought a pair of Polk RT6 and I wanted to upgrade crossover components. When I tested the conductivity of the terminals, I discovered there was a resistance of 1 Ohm between the binding posts outside and the connecting tab inside where the components were soldered. When I disassemble the binding posts, I discovered a lot of oxidation where the nuts were screwed to the back plate. Even if the binding posts were gold plated, it seemed that tightening the screws removed the gold from the metal which rusted after 15 years. I replaced them with new ones and it really help transparency and dynamics. I think this is something that should be checked when we do upgrades on a crossover. Thank you !!!
Glad I could help. It took forever for me to get my HPM's. They weren't in the best of shape but I hope to get many good years out of them. They sound incredible for being 40 year old speakers.
I have a problem. I have a Pioneer HPM 60 first model. Not HPM 60/U2. I would like to replace the ancient capacitors with new ones, but I can't find 4.6uF anywhere. The closest option is 4.7uF. Difficult to find parts for the elderly.
Well, I had a bad one to try, so nothing wrong with giving it a go. Honestly, the only thing keeping mine from sounding great is the small room. My dad had a room twice as big when we were growing up and his sounded incredible. Mine are in a 12’x12’ room and that’s just too small.
Hi, I've decided to get back all my old Pioneer stuff, and while I've found that everything still 'functions'... I'm noticing my Receivers (in driving the various Spk's) are going into some-sort of a "protection mode setting" thing, and thus, my Receivers are boinking-out / and shutting down (due a presumed over-load ???). ANOTHER notable symptom is the Receivers face-plate lighting (the lighting background) is "dimming-down" under LOAD sound attack / settings ... (with LOADER heavier sound pressures / like a drum roll or something for instance), so I assume, the spk. crossovers are a potential issue / problem, as this has NEVER happened before (that I can ever remember anyway), from when last I used all this stuff 20+ years ago. SO: It's ALL of this stuff, (along with some reading I've done), that has brought me to your Video HERE, **and NOW I think my problem IS "Crossovers"**. So here's the question: would you know of an Upgrade Service induvial I could send about a dozen of these things to, to then have these crossovers "upgraded" ?. I see (reading about this stuff), that some upgrades are 900 bucks and north in cost, and others are 250 bucks ... and lastly, these "kit's" (with all the needed stuff) that one can order and buy (and you list some of those components here / + I see that), BUT, aren't these components all different ?, for example: these are Speakers are: HPM 40's, 60's 100's, 150's and lastly 1500's ... again, the point of the remark is that I ASSUME their all a different upgrade ???. It seems a bit crazy (to ME), ta buy a few electrolytic's to upgrade something ... "and that it's hundreds of dollars" ... but then: "I don't know alot about this stuff". Another thought: My TV Tech Friends just laugh at me saying: "are you stupid ?, a capacitors 50 cents / and a choke or whatever's 2 or 3 bucks" ... Quote: "just revamp what they [were] and solder-in some up ta date more modern stuff / and be done with it stupid". SO I'M LOST here. Lastly, thanks for this Video, and I'd APPR. your counsel here !. THANK-YOU in advance !.
I would like to have the empiric part of your tutorial of crossover update, easy way, how do they sound? It would be great having the result of your job.
My ears aren't what they used to be, I have a lot of ringing. As a matter of fact, they're ringing pretty good right now. But I really need to do the other speaker. I believe this crossover modification did help but I'd like to do the other side and then I'll have a decent, balanced listening experience. Of course, the bigger issue is that I have a set of HPM-60's that I almost always listen to on the B-side of my receiver. I don't know if this crossover mod is available for them as well. But they definitely add some "brightness" to the sound when they're playing.
I just acquired a set of HPM-100's that had been in a barn for many years. The drivers are all functional. I've tested them. They really kick hard! However, they are quite harsh. I see from other photos that at least one capacitor in the crossover is electrolytic so I'm sure it is bad. I'm looking for reviews from others who've rebuilt the crossover and what changes they heard.
I've only done one speaker but just using the balance on the stereo, it definitely sounds less harsh on the rebuilt crossover. This is one of those projects where I did the one side and never did the other. I'm definitely going to make this a priority here soon. Just trying to wrap up some spring projects. I still have all the replacement parts for the other speaker. Just have to make time. I may make another video once they are both done and give my final thoughts on the upgrade.
What would GR-Research recommend for the HPM-100 crossover upgrade? I know they wouldn't recommend keeping any of the iron core inductors and sand cast resistors.
Would bad electrolytic caps cause static through the drivers? I can swear bass line trying to come through my tweeter. All the drivers ohm out to spec so hoping it’s the crossover. DCM Timeframe 700 with everything original.
I definitely think it helped tone some of the harshness down on the highs. I have had the worst luck, unfortunately. These speakers were in very poor shape when I got them, which is to be expected for the price I paid for them. But I have a midrange that's blown in one of them and I have to cut it all the way down with the pentameters to keep it from making a harsh noise. Not sure if I'm going to buy a replacement on eBay or get a similar replacement through Simply Speakers. But I am glad I did the upgrade and I'm pretty happy with the results.
I just got a set that needs the crossovers recapped, I am wondering if i can use the 10uf larger cap, but not bother with the inductor swap, any thoughts?
I wish I could give some more insight, but I just did these changes based on what the guy I was copying did. I can vouch that everything works great with this setup that I did. 👍🏻
Well to answer my own question... the 4.4 --->10uf cap value change on its own is terrrrible, the mid driver level went up and vastly increased the upper mids, and turnng the mid control way down is the only setting that is listenable. So one definitely needs to swap the coil along with the 10uf change.
It’s based on a change that a guy made and shared with folks, on Audiokarma’s website, I believe. It’s to tame the harshness in the tweeter that a lot of folks complain about with these HPM-100’s.
@@CoryHuber it sounds pretty good. Unfortunately, my soon to be 50 year old ears aren’t what they used to be. But I’m happy with the sound and they appear to be less harsh. The good thing about working on these crossovers, they are fairly simplistic and easy to work on for folks that haven’t done a lot of soldering of capacitors, etc.
They sound good to me. It's not a overly dramatic change in sound but the main thing was to take some of the harshness out of the highs. I just changed the coil because they weren't terribly expensive and I wanted to do them all since the originals were all 40 years old.
Just so you know the coil is called a induction coil and they don't go bad like a capacitor. If they test good then they are they don't lose their value over time.
Tammy is right, coils or inductors don't degrade over time when exposed to proper voltages. However, doing it for aesthetics or piece of mind is OK because they are such a cheap part.
What you did to the crossover does not effect the treble at all............just shaves off a bit from the top of the woofer response.....it effects the upper midrange by moving the crossover point between the woofer and midrange lower. The 3uf cap is for the tweeter where the treble is.......that is not changed.
Hi !! Something I want to share in my upgrade experience : Last year I bought a pair of Polk RT6 and I wanted to upgrade crossover components. When I tested the conductivity of the terminals, I discovered there was a resistance of 1 Ohm between the binding posts outside and the connecting tab inside where the components were soldered. When I disassemble the binding posts, I discovered a lot of oxidation where the nuts were screwed to the back plate. Even if the binding posts were gold plated, it seemed that tightening the screws removed the gold from the metal which rusted after 15 years. I replaced them with new ones and it really help transparency and dynamics. I think this is something that should be checked when we do upgrades on a crossover. Thank you !!!
@@yvesboutin5604 that’s great information to know, thank you!
You’ve convinced me to do my own. Great tutorial man
Glad I could help. It took forever for me to get my HPM's. They weren't in the best of shape but I hope to get many good years out of them. They sound incredible for being 40 year old speakers.
I have a problem. I have a Pioneer HPM 60 first model. Not HPM 60/U2. I would like to replace the ancient capacitors with new ones, but I can't find 4.6uF anywhere. The closest option is 4.7uF. Difficult to find parts for the elderly.
@@83keijo I think your closest option will work out just fine. 👍🏻
Bart had it right. Leaving mine stock. 45 years
Well, I had a bad one to try, so nothing wrong with giving it a go. Honestly, the only thing keeping mine from sounding great is the small room. My dad had a room twice as big when we were growing up and his sounded incredible. Mine are in a 12’x12’ room and that’s just too small.
I do crossover upgrades for these, fully assembled, and tested.
Hi, I've decided to get back all my old Pioneer stuff, and while I've found that everything still 'functions'... I'm noticing my Receivers (in driving the various Spk's) are going into some-sort of a "protection mode setting" thing, and thus, my Receivers are boinking-out / and shutting down (due a presumed over-load ???). ANOTHER notable symptom is the Receivers face-plate lighting (the lighting background) is "dimming-down" under LOAD sound attack / settings ... (with LOADER heavier sound pressures / like a drum roll or something for instance), so I assume, the spk. crossovers are a potential issue / problem, as this has NEVER happened before (that I can ever remember anyway), from when last I used all this stuff 20+ years ago.
SO: It's ALL of this stuff, (along with some reading I've done), that has brought me to your Video HERE, **and NOW I think my problem IS "Crossovers"**.
So here's the question: would you know of an Upgrade Service induvial I could send about a dozen of these things to, to then have these crossovers "upgraded" ?. I see (reading about this stuff), that some upgrades are 900 bucks and north in cost, and others are 250 bucks ... and lastly, these "kit's" (with all the needed stuff) that one can order and buy (and you list some of those components here / + I see that), BUT, aren't these components all different ?, for example: these are Speakers are: HPM 40's, 60's 100's, 150's and lastly 1500's ... again, the point of the remark is that I ASSUME their all a different upgrade ???.
It seems a bit crazy (to ME), ta buy a few electrolytic's to upgrade something ... "and that it's hundreds of dollars" ... but then: "I don't know alot about this stuff". Another thought: My TV Tech Friends just laugh at me saying: "are you stupid ?, a capacitors 50 cents / and a choke or whatever's 2 or 3 bucks" ... Quote: "just revamp what they [were] and solder-in some up ta date more modern stuff / and be done with it stupid". SO I'M LOST here.
Lastly, thanks for this Video, and I'd APPR. your counsel here !. THANK-YOU in advance !.
I would like to have the empiric part of your tutorial of crossover update, easy way, how do they sound? It would be great having the result of your job.
My ears aren't what they used to be, I have a lot of ringing. As a matter of fact, they're ringing pretty good right now. But I really need to do the other speaker. I believe this crossover modification did help but I'd like to do the other side and then I'll have a decent, balanced listening experience. Of course, the bigger issue is that I have a set of HPM-60's that I almost always listen to on the B-side of my receiver. I don't know if this crossover mod is available for them as well. But they definitely add some "brightness" to the sound when they're playing.
I just acquired a set of HPM-100's that had been in a barn for many years. The drivers are all functional. I've tested them. They really kick hard! However, they are quite harsh. I see from other photos that at least one capacitor in the crossover is electrolytic so I'm sure it is bad. I'm looking for reviews from others who've rebuilt the crossover and what changes they heard.
I've only done one speaker but just using the balance on the stereo, it definitely sounds less harsh on the rebuilt crossover. This is one of those projects where I did the one side and never did the other. I'm definitely going to make this a priority here soon. Just trying to wrap up some spring projects. I still have all the replacement parts for the other speaker. Just have to make time. I may make another video once they are both done and give my final thoughts on the upgrade.
What would GR-Research recommend for the HPM-100 crossover upgrade? I know they wouldn't recommend keeping any of the iron core inductors and sand cast resistors.
Not familiar with GR-Research. This is a simple upgrade from a fella that refurbishes 70’s stereos and speakers. 👍🏻
The HPM-100's were just added to their site. The upgrade is steep so hold your breath, and maybe your wallet.
GR Research “Upgrades” 💀
Would bad electrolytic caps cause static through the drivers? I can swear bass line trying to come through my tweeter. All the drivers ohm out to spec so hoping it’s the crossover. DCM Timeframe 700 with everything original.
I’ll be honest, I’m not 100% sure, but I have heard that happening to people before, so it’s certainly a possibility.
@@TheKeymaster316 ok Thankyou for the feedback, new caps going in tomorrow and fingers crossed.
@@Bass4LifeBro good luck! You can’t go wrong replacing old caps. 👍🏻
I got your same exact parts but before I put them in...how did it sound?
I definitely think it helped tone some of the harshness down on the highs. I have had the worst luck, unfortunately. These speakers were in very poor shape when I got them, which is to be expected for the price I paid for them. But I have a midrange that's blown in one of them and I have to cut it all the way down with the pentameters to keep it from making a harsh noise. Not sure if I'm going to buy a replacement on eBay or get a similar replacement through Simply Speakers. But I am glad I did the upgrade and I'm pretty happy with the results.
Great job!!!👍🔊🔊
I just got a set that needs the crossovers recapped, I am wondering if i can use the 10uf larger cap, but not bother with the inductor swap, any thoughts?
I wish I could give some more insight, but I just did these changes based on what the guy I was copying did. I can vouch that everything works great with this setup that I did. 👍🏻
Well to answer my own question... the 4.4 --->10uf cap value change on its own is terrrrible, the mid driver level went up and vastly increased the upper mids, and turnng the mid control way down is the only setting that is listenable. So one definitely needs to swap the coil along with the 10uf change.
I just bought a set of the 200watt version and I’d love to know where you did your shopping to rebuild those cross overs? HELP PLEASE✌🏻🇺🇸
100 and 200 are the same. Marketing!!
I have the 200 watt version and yes just a Marketing ploy.
Why are you using a 10uF cap when there's not a 10uF cap in the original drawing? Just curious
It’s based on a change that a guy made and shared with folks, on Audiokarma’s website, I believe. It’s to tame the harshness in the tweeter that a lot of folks complain about with these HPM-100’s.
@@TheKeymaster316 do you like the new sound profile?
@@CoryHuber it sounds pretty good. Unfortunately, my soon to be 50 year old ears aren’t what they used to be. But I’m happy with the sound and they appear to be less harsh. The good thing about working on these crossovers, they are fairly simplistic and easy to work on for folks that haven’t done a lot of soldering of capacitors, etc.
Im looking to do my ones, whats the verdict and why did you change the coil?
They sound good to me. It's not a overly dramatic change in sound but the main thing was to take some of the harshness out of the highs. I just changed the coil because they weren't terribly expensive and I wanted to do them all since the originals were all 40 years old.
Awesome, thanks for letting me know. Great video.
Just so you know the coil is called a induction coil and they don't go bad like a capacitor. If they test good then they are they don't lose their value over time.
Tammy is right, coils or inductors don't degrade over time when exposed to proper voltages. However, doing it for aesthetics or piece of mind is OK because they are such a cheap part.
What you did to the crossover does not effect the treble at all............just shaves off a bit from the top of the woofer response.....it effects the upper midrange by moving the crossover point between the woofer and midrange lower. The 3uf cap is for the tweeter where the treble is.......that is not changed.
Lástima del idioma, el tema me interesa pero sólo habló español.