I had a similar experience. Replaced an open heater, but the unit wouldn't heat. Checked all the possible components, then I found this video. I put the dishwasher into self test and let it finish. That was it . The unit now functions perfectly. It seems the failure of the heater sets a bit in the processor memory so that it doesn't bother wait for the water to heat. The only way to reset it is to run the self diagnostics. Once it determines that the heater is now working, remember it has a thermistor to measure the temp, it will rest the clear the fault bit and all will be well. Thank you Samurai Your detailed description led me to the solution.
Just before you wrapped things up, I doubted your conclusive decision, but after seeing that the customer reported the device to be functioning correctly, I realized the effectiveness of your troubleshooting method. You had full trust on your diagnosis. A Parts Changing Monkey wouldn't have stopped there, he would've took the whole thing apart, broken some delicate parts, to wind up at nothing in the end. Your bulletproof troubleshooting power is a true inspiration! Thank you!
I like the way you pulled the schematic diagram and followed the manufacturer guidelines for resistances etc. It is the right way to do things and this was very informative for a Whirlpool dishwasher I have. Thank You!
Samurai, you are very very good!! I enjoyed hearing you present your logic. I recently installed a Whirpool and saw the tucked-away schematic. I found none in our Kitchen-Aid. I bet they are the same production line. 7-1 error, and it was hot inside when my wife opened it up......
Very good instructional video. Well done and very concise. Helped me fix my issue. I had just replaced a burned out heating element on a Whirlpool dishwasher, and it wasn't working. I checked the H/L thermostat, read continuity from the control board, and then did the Service Diagnostic 'warm reboot'. That did the trick! All good; the dishwasher is heating like it always did. Thanks so much!
Great Heating Element T/S. Saved me dis-install I was trying to avoid. (RESULT) Also possible messing with connectors improved sub-optimal contact affecting logic.
Thank you sir! I ran into exactly the same situation. Not enough heat during the cycles. Pretty much took apart and tested all the components just to discover that they are fine. And finally I gave a shot to the service mode. Boom - heater is working again and all dishes are shiny. THANK YOU! Apparently, reboot fixes not only routers. Dishwasher - Whirlpool wdt750sahz0.
I toyed around with the idea of calling a service tech. So, long story short. I did a good cleaning with vinegar and baking soda and rest the board and it works great. Thank you. This video saved me probably $300-$700. $300± was repair costs I'm guessing and $700 was replacing the unit with not wanting to be bothered. BTW, this was on a WDT720PADM3 Whirlpool. Thank you for your time.
great technician!!!....and not to be a fans of reading ohms it's a great tip.... your multimeter can read the right value in ohms but your amp meter will tell you the truth.
Ive been doing appliance repair for a while with a company this taught me so much i sold a board but will check sensor before i do install thanks again 👍
Very good and informative video. I ran through the same troubleshooting techniques you described.Every item checked out fine. Just like you, I had the unit start working properly only after entering the service mode. 😃
I believe a Frigidaire tech once told me it happens due to the water temperature. If the unit isn't able to heat up the water fast enough the board kicks off the heater, which just doesn't sound right to me, but that's what they claim. They recommend the water temp coming into the dishwasher be at a minimum of 120 degrees, which usually means the customer's water heater needs to be set at around 140. After running diagnostic is always starts working again but after some time it can happen again. I always recommend to the customer that they run the hot water at their sink before starting a load.
I work for a apartment complex 460 units,we see this problem frequently, I started recommending this to our residents and they have never called again , We only have Wirpool appliances on site
This was very helpful. After verifying continuity and resistance of both the heater and turbidity thermostat circuits, replacing the controller board (around $250) fixed the heater not energizing.
This is an excellent diagnostic how-to that I've put into practice. If @SamuraiRepairman is still reading comments, what's your guidance when the OWI Thermistor doesn't show any Ohms across Pin 4 and Pin 6? I can replace that OWI assembly, but would like to understand when the Control board is to blame/needs replacing. My error code is 7-1 and the heating element and hi limit thermostat are good/in-spec. Heated Dry fails to come on--otherwise the washer works as expected.
On a brand new dishwasher the dishes come out dripping wet. Whirlpool says I need to use this rinse product and I maintain the old(noisy) dishwasher dried the dishes using heat and would actually put steam out of the vent--dishes were warm to the touch and dry. They told me to try the Sanitize Button to see if the element is being heated so I have to wait a few days to get enough testing material. I hate to use the now 3 hour cycle to test the heat! Go figure, Nice video and I will try the sanitize method then call them back to dispatch a service tech.
Find out the sequence of buttons to push to put your machine in diagnosis mode. As it starts _ push start button as to advance each cycle_ you'll eventually find the cycle you wsnt to test
I have a GE Dishwasher GDF530PGM0BB (very similar to the whirlpool you are working on. The dishes don't dry and come out with a white film. I tested the heating element and the High Limit Stat (TCO?). The element was good but stat did not have continuity. I replaced the stat and harness that came with it. The dishwasher worked (heated) for once cycle but did not work the next time we used it. I checked again and found no continuity at the stat, and came to realize that it has a reset button. Reset it and again the dishwasher worked for one cycle and then quit again. I replaced the turbity sensor (thermistor) and that did not help. I then replaced the control board and that did not help. Each time I reset the stat and it would work for one cycle. So something is causing the stat to trip out. I have run the diswasher through the service mode but that didn't help either. Please help.
I've been having same/simular situation as you have. I've replaced the control board twice_each time it worked for while. 10 months on first board_ 2 weeks on second board. Both refurbished boards. Then I bought a 3 board _ thinking bad repair job. That board only gave me a diagnosis code. Would not start dishwasher. Even replace the thermostat fuse. No go. Back tracking each move I've done_ I realized for some reason dishwasher keeps blowing the the thermostat fuse. So_ I retryed each board. Board # 1 defective. Won't run diagnosis. Board # 2 still remains faithful. After replacing thermostat again. Board # 3 defective. Unknown as of yet what part/parts are bad on board 1 & 3. I'm learning as I go along _ should have spent $250 on brand new board to begin with. But still need to find why fuses keep blowing. MASTER SAMURAI _ you have the most involved video's_ I'll continue watching.
Hello Samurai Great Video I have a very similar whirlpool dishwasher that only heats for 2 cycles after using diagnostic mode ? I have replaced the PCB in the door and the TURBIDITY SENSOR same thing still happening? Any ideas?
I have changed the heater coil and checked the thermal fuse to be working . It didn't help and I stopped because i dont know much . So how do I 'Reset' the logic circuit ??
Great video. If you have zero ohms on the p1-p3 leading to the turbidity sensor, will that give you a no heat scenario? I have continuity on both the heating element and thermostat. However, the dishes are wet and often still dirty.
If there was a power search is there a trip or a button that I should push in underneath the dishwasher also can the float if stuck in Gumpy be part of the problem why the heat won’t click on???
Rxcellent video, what i found was the thermistor wasnt getting resitance. If the thermistor isn't reading any resistance, is the problem with my element as simple as that?
How hard of limits are the resistance values on the sensor from 46K to 52K ohms? For instance, does a measurement of 55.3 K ohms indicate a bad sensor?
kitchaid dish washer I keep resetting and keep getting a blinking normal light, rinse cycle goes through OK. water temp even on high temp scrub never gets above 120f. Could water not hot enough be the issue? thanks
I am getting 38 ohms across the blue wires and 65 k ohms across the yellow wires pins 1 & 3. Room temperature is right at 77 F. The heating element was just replaced brand new but it's a China OEM replacement part specifically for my Whirlpool WDT720PADM5. Replacing the heating element and doing a hard reboot at the electric breaker didn't fix my issue. The resistances I am measuring seem real high. Any ideas?
didn't watch the video too closely so don't know if he mentioned a range but heating elements are literally just a big resistor, the resistance to electron flow causes the element to heat up when the current travels through it. Same as all electric coil heaters so that sounds normal for a heating element.
Hey SamuraiRepairman, wouldn't it be wiser to do a reset of the machine then a test run before you start testing to see if that fixes any issues? I find that it may fix some glitches that may have occurred in the relays or other parts of the board.
How do you do a "hard reboot"? I bought a Whirlpool dishwasher last year and it barely heats. It also cleans less and less effectively as time goes by, despite cleaning filters, etc.
I have a Whirlpool GoldSeries dishwasher that is about 3 yr. old. It stopped cleaning the dishes about a month ago - my tech ordered and installed a new wash pump last week - but NOW the water won't heat and it won't dry. I have always run my sink water to hot before running dishwasher - my water heater is set to 140 degrees. This is my THIRD dishwasher since 2005 when I flooded during Katrina in New Orleans. I paid $700+ for this one, and have put approx. $360 in it for this wash issue (2 service calls and parts/labor). My question to you all: 1- do you think my tech could have messed up some connection when he installed wash pump? 2- Is this heat issue something I could test/fix for myself? 3- should I just pitch this one and get another one due to amount of dollars already spent plus what the heat issue would cost? Which is ridiculous... but has become my solution for a dishwasher and a washing machine - since 2005. Any insight would be appreciated. Thank you.
Firefly Alley You reset the unit by running diagnostics on it. Pick 3 keys other than start or cancel and do a 1-2-3 sequence 3 times. If you do it successfully all leds light up then display error codes will flash in a set of flashes and shortly after machine will run through test cycle that enables heating circuit again. It will work unless you have a problem in the heating circuit. If you do heater will be disabled.
@@franciscojaque253 Your comment deserves a million thumbs up!! This worked for me today and it surely saved me hours of time and potentially hundreds of dollars. THANK YOU!!!!!
Mine was a broken heater coil element inside dishwasher. Not sure why it cracked in two. Tech said board needed to be replaced too. $169 service call. $250 parts and labor. Ugh
I been on the road for quite a bit of time and you don't find techs like you around the corner, Great video! Have you had any issues with wirpool refrigerators loosing refrigerant?
On a 2019 whirlpool with no heat is it possible that a failing motor is causing a no heat problem. An appliance technician said the heating element tested fine and that this is a sign of a failing motor.
Sometimes it’s easy to check everything from a control board, but GE puts their boards on the bottom and it’s impossible to reach all pins and connectors; you have to check each component separately
And so you came to no conclusion and thats the problem with todays appliances. As a tech myself I see this a lot. If you get a call back your still at square one and you do it all over and again no conclusion. Now we are guessing with a lot of time invested in it. Glad to see you have a lot of patients
I came back from a trip tried to use dishwasher noticed it was awfully quiet and when it finished dishes were wet but dirty and the soap was still in the dispenser, led me to the pump. Believing it to be clogged I removed it and it was nearly spotless, gave the bearing a turn while I had it out and the pump started working again. Only problem was dishes still weren't clean and dripping wet, no heat. This makes me think that for some reason the pump wasn't working (maybe sitting a few days the bearing in the pump got a little seized) and the water wasn't circulating which probably caused a high limit switch to trip for the temp and shut off the heating element permanently. (for safety) Now that the pump is working again I need to run my dishwasher in the diagnostic mode to reenable the heating element. I also noticed the the plastic cover that is easily removable from the bottom of the inside under the element that keeps food from going into the drain is warped now, lifting up a tiny bit from where it's supposed to be which shows that it overheated. Because of the safety switches the pump intermittently quitting could cause someone who doesn't know what they are doing to replace the pump, heating element and control board.
I have whirlpool gold series dishwasher, I am having a strange issue. My dishwasher is not completing its cycles. Initally when I turn it on, it fills water and heats the water and then stops. It will not initiate clean cycle, just stays there. After some time, it will drain water and fills new fresh water and stops there. I have checked motor, control board, door latch, turbudity sensor all are working fine individually and all are asper the specs. The strange part is, once I do service cycle like 123123123, after that it always cleans my dishes perfectly. It means, everytime to start my dishwasher, I need to do this service cycle then run normal wash iteration. It will work fine. If I start my dishwasher load, wihtout doing service cycle, it will stop after filling the water. So, not getting what component is wrong and what needs to be done. I suspected the computer board / thermistor / turbudity sensor, so I have changed, still the same issue.
Hello, I am trying to make an incubator using a dishwasher as the main box. Can I assume that my old kitchenaide superba with a 16" round heating element is a wet/dry element, and I can power the heater element with an incubator temperature controller to maintain a 99.5° -99.8° temp in a dry environment (similar to the eco heated drying cycle). I just want to know if a dishwasher element (750W wet, 500Wdry) would be an efficient use of electricity vs a couple of 60w lightbulbs and 2 computer fans
unless you are hatching 1000 eggs at the same time it sounds like overkill. Why heat an area 50 times bigger than required? or are you hatching that many eggs?
One thing I always keep in mind of this design of dishwashers (I can tell the design by the thin blue wires to the recir. pump) and a no heat complaint, is the recirculation pump failing. It causes a no heat error because water doesn't recirculate over heater thus no temperature rise, causing the error then the control will disable heater until put into dianostic mode. These pumps are really buggy.
@@kingb468 I believe it would decect a rise in temperature even if doesn't get to temp or takes longer. In fact there is a error code for too low of inlet water.
@@woodisgood85 no sure if you miss understood me. Not a lack of water but the water not being hot enough. Causing the dishwasher to over work itself to reach temperature. Should the water come out at least a 120 degrees? How fast does the heating element heat the water? Or does it just maintain it's inlet temperature?
@@kingb468 Bosch is now recommending users to not preheat their water at the sink before starting the dishwasher. These machines will still heat the water if it fills with cold water.
This is exactly what I was thinking too. Was there any error code? The F7 (E1?) code will disable the heat circuite. I often find a intermittent failed wash motor in these situations.
It would be better if technician would have slowed down and shown exactly were the ohm meter probes placed, slow down on showing where amp meter placed. I am a complete novice and those things that might seem totally obvious to a technician are really confusing to someone trying to learn.
Although that’s a good bet, I hate gambling (cuz I always lose). IF they call back, I’m replacing BOTH the board and the OWI because I have no way of knowing whether the relays on the board are sticking or the NTC is flaking out. Replacing BOTH is a 100% guaranteed fix. And the OWI adds less than $50 to the job.
So basically there isn't a definitive diagnosis. For years I've tried and tried with this intermittent problem. It's BS design. Ohm'ing things out rarely gives you good information. It's just a POS and makes the customer angry
I’ve got ADHD and that dog barking nonstop is all I could hear what it’s too bad you sound like you’re really know what you’re doing but I just couldn’t let go of that dog barking
You have access to a schematic for a Kenmore Dishwasher 665.17362300, No Power. I have checked power to the main board, door switches are good and the thermal switch is good.
I had a similar experience. Replaced an open heater, but the unit wouldn't heat. Checked all the possible components, then I found this video. I put the dishwasher into self test and let it finish. That was it . The unit now functions perfectly. It seems the failure of the heater sets a bit in the processor memory so that it doesn't bother wait for the water to heat. The only way to reset it is to run the self diagnostics. Once it determines that the heater is now working, remember it has a thermistor to measure the temp, it will rest the clear the fault bit and all will be well. Thank you Samurai Your detailed description led me to the solution.
Just before you wrapped things up, I doubted your conclusive decision, but after seeing that the customer reported the device to be functioning correctly, I realized the effectiveness of your troubleshooting method. You had full trust on your diagnosis. A Parts Changing Monkey wouldn't have stopped there, he would've took the whole thing apart, broken some delicate parts, to wind up at nothing in the end. Your bulletproof troubleshooting power is a true inspiration! Thank you!
Thanks for watching, Gassan, I always appreciate your comments.
@@AppliantologyOrg How to Reset the machine ??
I like the way you pulled the schematic diagram and followed the manufacturer guidelines for resistances etc. It is the right way to do things and this was very informative for a Whirlpool dishwasher I have. Thank You!
Samurai, you are very very good!! I enjoyed hearing you present your logic. I recently installed a Whirpool and saw the tucked-away schematic. I found none in our Kitchen-Aid. I bet they are the same production line. 7-1 error, and it was hot inside when my wife opened it up......
Very good instructional video. Well done and very concise. Helped me fix my issue. I had just replaced a burned out heating element on a Whirlpool dishwasher, and it wasn't working. I checked the H/L thermostat, read continuity from the control board, and then did the Service Diagnostic 'warm reboot'. That did the trick! All good; the dishwasher is heating like it always did. Thanks so much!
Great Heating Element T/S. Saved me dis-install I was trying to avoid. (RESULT) Also possible messing with connectors improved sub-optimal contact affecting logic.
Thank you sir! I ran into exactly the same situation. Not enough heat during the cycles. Pretty much took apart and tested all the components just to discover that they are fine. And finally I gave a shot to the service mode. Boom - heater is working again and all dishes are shiny. THANK YOU! Apparently, reboot fixes not only routers. Dishwasher - Whirlpool wdt750sahz0.
I have the same dw model and same issue, how do we put dw into service mode??
I toyed around with the idea of calling a service tech. So, long story short. I did a good cleaning with vinegar and baking soda and rest the board and it works great. Thank you. This video saved me probably $300-$700. $300± was repair costs I'm guessing and $700 was replacing the unit with not wanting to be bothered. BTW, this was on a WDT720PADM3 Whirlpool. Thank you for your time.
great technician!!!....and not to be a fans of reading ohms it's a great tip.... your multimeter can read the right value in ohms but your amp meter will tell you the truth.
Ive been doing appliance repair for a while with a company this taught me so much i sold a board but will check sensor before i do install thanks again 👍
Very good and informative video.
I ran through the same troubleshooting techniques you described.Every item checked out fine. Just like you, I had the unit start working properly only after entering the service mode. 😃
I believe a Frigidaire tech once told me it happens due to the water temperature. If the unit isn't able to heat up the water fast enough the board kicks off the heater, which just doesn't sound right to me, but that's what they claim. They recommend the water temp coming into the dishwasher be at a minimum of 120 degrees, which usually means the customer's water heater needs to be set at around 140. After running diagnostic is always starts working again but after some time it can happen again. I always recommend to the customer that they run the hot water at their sink before starting a load.
I work for a apartment complex 460 units,we see this problem frequently,
I started recommending this to our residents and they have never called again ,
We only have Wirpool appliances on site
This was very helpful. After verifying continuity and resistance of both the heater and turbidity thermostat circuits, replacing the controller board (around $250) fixed the heater not energizing.
$250 will buy you a decent used washer ..lol .. i am throwing away mine because the controller is bad
This is an excellent diagnostic how-to that I've put into practice. If @SamuraiRepairman is still reading comments, what's your guidance when the OWI Thermistor doesn't show any Ohms across Pin 4 and Pin 6? I can replace that OWI assembly, but would like to understand when the Control board is to blame/needs replacing. My error code is 7-1 and the heating element and hi limit thermostat are good/in-spec. Heated Dry fails to come on--otherwise the washer works as expected.
On a brand new dishwasher the dishes come out dripping wet. Whirlpool says I need to use this rinse product and I maintain the old(noisy) dishwasher dried the dishes using heat and would actually put steam out of the vent--dishes were warm to the touch and dry. They told me to try the Sanitize Button to see if the element is being heated so I have to wait a few days to get enough testing material. I hate to use the now 3 hour cycle to test the heat! Go figure, Nice video and I will try the sanitize method then call them back to dispatch a service tech.
Find out the sequence of buttons to push to put your machine in diagnosis mode.
As it starts _ push start button as to advance each cycle_ you'll eventually find the cycle you wsnt to test
Excellent troubleshooting video!
I have a GE Dishwasher GDF530PGM0BB (very similar to the whirlpool you are working on. The dishes don't dry and come out with a white film. I tested the heating element and the High Limit Stat (TCO?). The element was good but stat did not have continuity. I replaced the stat and harness that came with it. The dishwasher worked (heated) for once cycle but did not work the next time we used it. I checked again and found no continuity at the stat, and came to realize that it has a reset button. Reset it and again the dishwasher worked for one cycle and then quit again. I replaced the turbity sensor (thermistor) and that did not help. I then replaced the control board and that did not help. Each time I reset the stat and it would work for one cycle. So something is causing the stat to trip out. I have run the diswasher through the service mode but that didn't help either. Please help.
I've been having same/simular situation as you have.
I've replaced the control board twice_each time it worked for while.
10 months on first board_ 2 weeks on second board. Both refurbished boards.
Then I bought a 3 board _ thinking bad repair job. That board only gave me a diagnosis code. Would not start dishwasher.
Even replace the thermostat fuse. No go.
Back tracking each move I've done_ I realized for some reason dishwasher keeps blowing the the thermostat fuse.
So_ I retryed each board.
Board # 1 defective.
Won't run diagnosis.
Board # 2 still remains faithful.
After replacing thermostat again.
Board # 3 defective.
Unknown as of yet what part/parts are bad on board 1 & 3.
I'm learning as I go along _ should have spent $250 on brand new board to begin with.
But still need to find why fuses keep blowing.
MASTER SAMURAI _ you have the most involved video's_ I'll continue watching.
Hello Samurai Great Video I have a very similar whirlpool dishwasher that only heats for 2 cycles after using diagnostic mode ? I have replaced the PCB in the door and the TURBIDITY SENSOR same thing still happening? Any ideas?
I have changed the heater coil and checked the thermal fuse to be working . It didn't help and I stopped because i dont know much . So how do I 'Reset' the logic circuit ??
Great video. If you have zero ohms on the p1-p3 leading to the turbidity sensor, will that give you a no heat scenario? I have continuity on both the heating element and thermostat. However, the dishes are wet and often still dirty.
If there was a power search is there a trip or a button that I should push in underneath the dishwasher also can the float if stuck in Gumpy be part of the problem why the heat won’t click on???
Rxcellent video, what i found was the thermistor wasnt getting resitance. If the thermistor isn't reading any resistance, is the problem with my element as simple as that?
How hard of limits are the resistance values on the sensor from 46K to 52K ohms? For instance, does a measurement of 55.3 K ohms indicate a bad sensor?
Great video thanks
kitchaid dish washer I keep resetting and keep getting a blinking normal light, rinse cycle goes through OK. water temp even on high temp scrub never gets above 120f. Could water not hot enough be the issue? thanks
I am getting 38 ohms across the blue wires and 65 k ohms across the yellow wires pins 1 & 3. Room temperature is right at 77 F. The heating element was just replaced brand new but it's a China OEM replacement part specifically for my Whirlpool WDT720PADM5. Replacing the heating element and doing a hard reboot at the electric breaker didn't fix my issue. The resistances I am measuring seem real high. Any ideas?
didn't watch the video too closely so don't know if he mentioned a range but heating elements are literally just a big resistor, the resistance to electron flow causes the element to heat up when the current travels through it. Same as all electric coil heaters so that sounds normal for a heating element.
I notice when you measure the P12 1&3, you're measuring the wiring to the board, not the actual OWI sensor (??)
Hey SamuraiRepairman, wouldn't it be wiser to do a reset of the machine then a test run before you start testing to see if that fixes any issues? I find that it may fix some glitches that may have occurred in the relays or other parts of the board.
Awesome vid 👍
Thanks for the visit
"The Healer has lain his hands upon your unit, and all is well again."
😂
Good video I had the same problem after a month 😂 it turned the wire was not making good connection with thermostat. I re wired all good
In my 15 years of repairing appliances I've noticed with the newer whirlpool washers and dishwashers that a hard reboot will often cure the problem
How do you do a "hard reboot"? I bought a Whirlpool dishwasher last year and it barely heats. It also cleans less and less effectively as time goes by, despite cleaning filters, etc.
I have a Whirlpool GoldSeries dishwasher that is about 3 yr. old. It stopped cleaning the dishes about a month ago - my tech ordered and installed a new wash pump last week - but NOW the water won't heat and it won't dry. I have always run my sink water to hot before running dishwasher - my water heater is set to 140 degrees. This is my THIRD dishwasher since 2005 when I flooded during Katrina in New Orleans. I paid $700+ for this one, and have put approx. $360 in it for this wash issue (2 service calls and parts/labor). My question to you all: 1- do you think my tech could have messed up some connection when he installed wash pump? 2- Is this heat issue something I could test/fix for myself? 3- should I just pitch this one and get another one due to amount of dollars already spent plus what the heat issue would cost? Which is ridiculous... but has become my solution for a dishwasher and a washing machine - since 2005. Any insight would be appreciated. Thank you.
Firefly Alley
You reset the unit by running diagnostics on it. Pick 3 keys other than start or cancel and do a 1-2-3 sequence 3 times. If you do it successfully all leds light up then display error codes will flash in a set of flashes and shortly after machine will run through test cycle that enables heating circuit again. It will work unless you have a problem in the heating circuit. If you do heater will be disabled.
@@franciscojaque253 You the man! Ive see other button combos but this was the first that worked. THanks!
@@franciscojaque253 Your comment deserves a million thumbs up!! This worked for me today and it surely saved me hours of time and potentially hundreds of dollars. THANK YOU!!!!!
where did you get the wire diagram
I download them at Appliantology.org: appliantology.org/blogs/entry/1027-tech-memberships-at-appliantology/
Mine was a broken heater coil element inside dishwasher. Not sure why it cracked in two. Tech said board needed to be replaced too. $169 service call. $250 parts and labor. Ugh
I know this is an older video, but I’m looking for the schematic for mine and not finding it. It’s not in the owners manual. Any tips?
Found my schematics in a plastic envelope glued to the kick panel.
Can I ask why you said you aren't a big fan of resistance checking
How do I find electrical schematics for my model dishwasher?
Usually in the kick plate
Samurai could you explain how to use the self diagnostic chart in a video? It seems complicated.
I do that in a different video, link posted in the description.
I been on the road for quite a bit of time and you don't find techs like you around the corner,
Great video!
Have you had any issues with wirpool refrigerators loosing refrigerant?
On a 2019 whirlpool with no heat is it possible that a failing motor is causing a no heat problem. An appliance technician said the heating element tested fine and that this is a sign of a failing motor.
What if you have no resistance across p12-3 and p12-1?
Sometimes it’s easy to check everything from a control board, but GE puts their boards on the bottom and it’s impossible to reach all pins and connectors; you have to check each component separately
It's also possible that the wire harness to the heater was loose and was not making good contact while the customer was using it.
And so you came to no conclusion and thats the problem with todays appliances. As a tech myself I see this a lot.
If you get a call back your still at square one and you do it all over and again no conclusion. Now we are guessing
with a lot of time invested in it. Glad to see you have a lot of patients
I came back from a trip tried to use dishwasher noticed it was awfully quiet and when it finished dishes were wet but dirty and the soap was still in the dispenser, led me to the pump. Believing it to be clogged I removed it and it was nearly spotless, gave the bearing a turn while I had it out and the pump started working again. Only problem was dishes still weren't clean and dripping wet, no heat.
This makes me think that for some reason the pump wasn't working (maybe sitting a few days the bearing in the pump got a little seized) and the water wasn't circulating which probably caused a high limit switch to trip for the temp and shut off the heating element permanently. (for safety) Now that the pump is working again I need to run my dishwasher in the diagnostic mode to reenable the heating element.
I also noticed the the plastic cover that is easily removable from the bottom of the inside under the element that keeps food from going into the drain is warped now, lifting up a tiny bit from where it's supposed to be which shows that it overheated.
Because of the safety switches the pump intermittently quitting could cause someone who doesn't know what they are doing to replace the pump, heating element and control board.
I have whirlpool gold series dishwasher, I am having a strange issue. My dishwasher is not completing its cycles. Initally when I turn it on, it fills water and heats the water and then stops. It will not initiate clean cycle, just stays there. After some time, it will drain water and fills new fresh water and stops there. I have checked motor, control board, door latch, turbudity sensor all are working fine individually and all are asper the specs. The strange part is, once I do service cycle like 123123123, after that it always cleans my dishes perfectly. It means, everytime to start my dishwasher, I need to do this service cycle then run normal wash iteration. It will work fine.
If I start my dishwasher load, wihtout doing service cycle, it will stop after filling the water. So, not getting what component is wrong and what needs to be done. I suspected the computer board / thermistor / turbudity sensor, so I have changed, still the same issue.
Did you ever resolve this issue? I’m having the same problem.
A tech (Dakota) from ACS told me to run the hot water in the sink before turning the dishwasher on! OOOOOKKKKKK!!!!
On your vedio, dirty connection, you cleaned by disconnecting and reconnecting. Or it could be PFM.
I have the same problem... Did u get It?
Hello, I am trying to make an incubator using a dishwasher as the main box. Can I assume that my old kitchenaide superba with a 16" round heating element is a wet/dry element, and I can power the heater element with an incubator temperature controller to maintain a 99.5° -99.8° temp in a dry environment (similar to the eco heated drying cycle). I just want to know if a dishwasher element (750W wet, 500Wdry) would be an efficient use of electricity vs a couple of 60w lightbulbs and 2 computer fans
unless you are hatching 1000 eggs at the same time it sounds like overkill. Why heat an area 50 times bigger than required? or are you hatching that many eggs?
My $1000 brand new whirlpool has never dried anything. Everything checks fine. My 15yr old dishwasher it replaced dried things fine.
One thing I always keep in mind of this design of dishwashers (I can tell the design by the thin blue wires to the recir. pump) and a no heat complaint, is the recirculation pump failing. It causes a no heat error because water doesn't recirculate over heater thus no temperature rise, causing the error then the control will disable heater until put into dianostic mode. These pumps are really buggy.
What if the water was coming in to cold?
@@kingb468 I believe it would decect a rise in temperature even if doesn't get to temp or takes longer. In fact there is a error code for too low of inlet water.
@@woodisgood85 no sure if you miss understood me. Not a lack of water but the water not being hot enough. Causing the dishwasher to over work itself to reach temperature. Should the water come out at least a 120 degrees? How fast does the heating element heat the water? Or does it just maintain it's inlet temperature?
@@kingb468 Bosch is now recommending users to not preheat their water at the sink before starting the dishwasher. These machines will still heat the water if it fills with cold water.
This is exactly what I was thinking too. Was there any error code? The F7 (E1?) code will disable the heat circuite. I often find a intermittent failed wash motor in these situations.
Solid diag.
That dog barking is stressing me out. Good video
As for Potential Troublemakers, how about a poor molex connection that was inadvertently corrected when you unplugged to check the Ohlms?
It would be better if technician would have slowed down and shown exactly were the ohm meter probes placed, slow down on showing where amp meter placed. I am a complete novice and those things that might seem totally obvious to a technician are really confusing to someone trying to learn.
My money would be on the relays if they call back
Although that’s a good bet, I hate gambling (cuz I always lose). IF they call back, I’m replacing BOTH the board and the OWI because I have no way of knowing whether the relays on the board are sticking or the NTC is flaking out. Replacing BOTH is a 100% guaranteed fix. And the OWI adds less than $50 to the job.
SamuraiRepairman spoken like a true tech.
I subtitles for the deaf. I guess I don’t find help here.
whatsa abwayyyla? 😂
So basically there isn't a definitive diagnosis. For years I've tried and tried with this intermittent problem. It's BS design. Ohm'ing things out rarely gives you good information.
It's just a POS and makes the customer angry
I’ve got ADHD and that dog barking nonstop is all I could hear what it’s too bad you sound like you’re really know what you’re doing but I just couldn’t let go of that dog barking
I know, drives me nuts, too. But this is a glimpse into the glamour life of a real-life, in-home appliance repair man!
You have access to a schematic for a Kenmore Dishwasher 665.17362300, No Power. I have checked power to the main board, door switches are good and the thermal switch is good.