Miguel. Ive learned over the years on working on cars you can replace everything to no avail. So you're obviously having ignition issues. Dont dig too far yet. Think of something simple right now. Make sure the spark plugs are at the proper gap. It can easily cause that misfire through the rpms. Check plugs and gap (spark blowout). Next consider the fact your wires are defective. Then look into your injectors. They could use a good cleaning. Hope this helps dont start thinking an ecu issue yet. Start back from square 1. It was running great now it isnt. Plugs, wires and injectors. Eliminate 100% those issues before going deeper
@@MiguelDsm I used to have a vr4 running poorly with new everything. At the end, they were the new spark plugs, just gapped too wide and they were blown up. I got new ones and gapped them at .27 and that fixed the issue. Hope that’s your problem too. Taking out the intake manifold to change them is a pain, but worth it.
Its because transverse/transaxle Mitsubishi ownership is a problem. And the first step to overcoming a problem is admitting you're powerless over that problem. See what I did there?
Start with a leak down test. I had a client that jumped a tooth on the cams and with the custom grinds on the lobes, it had some interference. Not much of a touch, but enough to cause leakage in the intake valves. Next I would do a data stream of the cam and crank sensors and scope out the rise and fall of the signals.
i had this same problem. For me it was the ECU. i pulled mine out and it looked just like yours. however, i bought the chrome from 3sx with stock tune and everything worked great!
Diagnosing this, even with a video is difficult. I had a 93 VR4 that was doing something very similar and it was off 1 tooth on the rear cam gears. Reset the timing and bam, worked like a charm. I replaced the belt and tensioner shortly after as I never figured out why it jumped.
If you’re new to the mighty Vr-4 you’re gonna come across some issues. It’s inevitable. If you can grind through it and not lose patience, it will be well worth it my friend.
As someone who literally just found this TH-cam channel, it'll be interesting to watch this series. The Mitsubishi 3000gt is my obtainable JDM dream car, so I'm glad to see what I'll be getting into if I decide to purchase one
check vacuum lines to the wastegate its possible you have a small leak. Also does your throttle body have coolant lines going to it like the eclipse? My car was acting like that too because it was leaking coolant into the intake manifold causing spuddering.
Hi Adrian I had similar bad running on 4g63 and found a second hand igniter transistor which seemed to work awhile but then it got hot and died. I now use a 3 output v6 one. Id recommend coil on plug to avoid this its my next option.
@@Michael-lg4wz that would be the goal to go that route but also looking to keep the car stock and not spend money on this one I have a 92 vr4 making 500hp and would like to modify that one to my pleasing. Might need to upgrade that one and transfer the parts but I’ll see these couple of days and try it out thank you
@@mdargusch I saw a video by (3000gt/gto restorations)on TH-cam he explains everything and yes I need to verify if it’s one of those knock off which do work but just don’t work the same.
I had a similar issue on my 92 vr4 back in 1999 and it was my ecu. I had it rebuilt and the problem went away. I'm sorry you're having so many issues with your car. Last year I went with a Aem series 2 ecu and I would definitely recommend it if you plan to keep the car for a long time. It gives you a lot better control over your car. I owned mine since 1992 and im telling you its definitely worth putting in the time and effort to get to the root of your problem. 30 years later I still get a huge smile every time I drive My car.
Surprised with a modded car your not running at least an AFR gauge. Tells you a LOT about how your cars running. And could save you from breaking stuff. Wouldn't take mine out at this point ever. If it isnt running right the AFRs go all sorts of funky and you know immediately its either not enough fuel or too much air. and vice-versa.
Hey Miguel, I had a similar issue on my DSM. Turned out to be a semi faulty cam angle sensor. I also replaced the cps too and found that the crank pulley wasn't tightened down properly (previous owner).
Check the fuel tank for rust... Also check your fuel for water.. and your intercooler for water.. also clogged injectiors if you have rust in your tank also disconnect your computer for the struts if you have that
try a compression or leak down test. You could also take a look at the wideband during the break up issue to see how the fueling looks exactly when it occurs. You could also use a timing light and check the ignition timing.
I think that’s what needs to change here. Stop throwing parts at it and start doing diagnostic trouble shooting. Who’s knows how lean the car ram and for how long with the fuel pump issues it had. Could have burnt a valve or piston at this point. Just gotta start diagnosing and stop throwing parts at it. Not being mean but that’s where you are at. Too much money and time spent so far to be no where with it.
You've got this Miguel! You have a whole community behind you to help. On my 92 my breaking up issues were caused by boost and vacuum leaks. So like so many others have said, pressure testing the motor and the boost and vacuum lines will tell you a lot. Can your Wideband gauge do logging? Some of the new AEM ones can, so that might be worth looking into as well. I know it's frustrating, but don't let it get to you. Alright, off to go put my new Chrome ECU in my VR4 before work.
When I had my 91 vr4 I would source all my parts from 3sx performance it was the only place on the east coast that readily had parts for it. It’s where I got my rebuilt ECU and their team helped me troubleshoot my issues, try reaching out to them. Hope this helps
Mine stealth Turbo needed the fuel injectors rebuilt. Also it did need coils later. My capacitors leaked, but my ECU board looked a little different than yours (1991) and had a clear need for capacitor replacement which helped. By the way...I replaced all 3 coil packs and one of the 3 went bad very quickly. Good thing I kept my originals and put the best old one on. That got it running great again. Did you check the primary and secondary resistance of the coils you put on? Sometimes new ones are bad. Also check the primary and secondary resistance of the originals to see if one was bad or not. That's all the advice I've got from having lived your pain.
Had the same issue with my GTO MR, ended up throwing a tons of parts at it and it ended up being a faulty fuel pump and 2 injectors. My advice, like a few has suggested, do a leak down and compression test first, then a pressure test if the first two turns out ok. If all turn out positive, tackle your fuel and air mixture.
If it's still not working, I would try and find a replacement ECU and then try your throttle position sensor if it's sputtering. A bad throttle position sensor can sometimes cause this.
Brother, I have been down your street with owning 3 gen 1 Talons. My cars were broke a lot! The VR4 is a more complicated 4g63. I went from a talon the most unreliable car to the second most unreliable car my 91 300zx tt. I built mine and it’s been very reliable for the last 5 years. 600 wheel hp and track it a few times a year. These cars are amazing with a heart of Japanese samurai. Keep wrenching and driving. Keep up the videos.
Does it throw any trouble codes? Do a smoke test to find any vacuum/boost leaks. What are your spark plugs gapped at? What kind of spark plugs are you running? How much power are you making? Gap the plugs at .32 or lower if you still have problems. I’ve had mine at .18 at one point. Use Copper or Iridium and get one range colder than stock.
check your injectors and see what your AFR's are running when your breaking up. Also cant remember if youve tuned it since you put some mods on it..might be a good idea to revisit your tune and see if its leaning out at certain rpms. Oh yea check your timing. Run it up to 1 TDC and check and make sure all of your timing marks are aligned. These cars love to jump time.
@@MiguelDsm im just trying to let you know what i had to deal with. Mine had a p0300 which is a random misfire. Wound up being bad spark plug wires. But first thing i checked was timing, then pulled the plugs out on the first bank and ground them out on the pull bracket on the front head and and visually checked for spark. Then had to re-gap the spark plugs because no shit at .038 gap at 12.5:1 compression they didn't want to spark. And the ones that came out were gapped at .028. Then threw in some 8mm msd wires and the misfiring cleared up. Sometimes its a combination of issues.
@@MiguelDsm Also your Cam timing sensor could be going bad to throwing your timing off. But definintly data log it to get a better picture of whats going on.
Your car doesn't have the adjustable cam sensor but I still recommend getting a timing gun and grounding the brown ignition timing terminal. The brown terminal is located near the passenger side strut tower near the fire wall. When you ground this it will lock the cars ignition timing to base ignition timing, which should be 5-7 degrees BTDC. Set your timing gun to 5-7 degrees and check the crank pulley. If the timing is off that would definitely cause drivability issues. The problem is your car being a 93+ doesn't have the adjustable CAS sensor like on the older 91-92's. So the next thing to do would be to inspect around the CAS sensor, located in the timing belt area, for signs of problems. There's a sensor plug around the middle of the timing cover that can come loose or corroded, and check the sensor itself to see if it has become loose or the wire/harness are damaged or corroded. If you're going to be pulling the cover to see if your timing belt skipped a tooth then you might as well put some attention to the CAS sensor as well, its right there.
I owned a 3000gt a few years back and had the same issue and did the same things you did. What fixed my issue was the crank sensor. Located behind the timing cover on the gen 2s. After I replaced that the car was fixed. Before giving up I'd try the crank sensor and the cam sensor
Boost leak test? Which plugs wires did you use? I just went through this with a remote tune VR4. Cam timing checked out, boost leaks fixed, throttle body calibrated, found a faulty "new" plug wire. Ohm them.
Hey buddy, have you done a boost leak test? May need to do that. Also what a/f ratio are you running when it skips? Is it leaning out? See if you can get the fuel pressure checked too. Youd be surprised how a few psi can affect things. One last thing, plugs, when was they last changed, what kind are you running? If you want to check timing get cylinder 1 to TDC and pull the top timing covers. I understand the frustration, but don't give up on her, she does want fixed, you just gotta sweet talk her 😅.
@@MiguelDsm good luck buddy. It could be something simple. 1 tooth off wouldn't normally act that way in my experience. It would need to be a few teeth. But I think you'd be having more issues if it was the tbelt.
Can confirm, VR4 owner here and I had a sputter at higher RPM (Around 5.3-6k) turns out the old 90s dry rotted plastic turbo piping had a chunk out the backside of the pipe. I upgraded to Metal piping and it seems to have resolved the issue in my smoke and pressure test (Im stuck waiting on a couple parts to confirm driving wise)
I would do a boost leak test if you have any throttlebody or intake gasket/seal leaks another thing that comes to mind is check the electrical connectors for the ptu and the ignition coils sometimes the seals can wear out and you get moisture in the connectors and the pins won't contact as well as they used to, i cleaned all my connectors under my hood of my car the day i bought it and put dielectric tune up grease on the connectors to help keep moisture out never regretted it also made removing connectors easier in the future, maybe add a few extra ground connectors to the car, or clean up all the existing grounds, also i would think cleaning the isc and throttle body would be a good idea as well.
Not sure if u figured this out but i had a problem where the car ran ok but sometimes the idle was off and got stuck in random positions, but most of all between 3-4k rpm it would do this weird putting unless i put it under load, turned out the egr valve was throwing off my ignition time because the exhaust was causing causing to much heat. Idk if the 300gt has an egr but otherwise don't count out electrical
Every time I had misfire issues with my avenger it almost always had something to do with the back 3 cylinders under the intake, it's very easy to screw up a bracket and melt a wire causing a short and sometimes the higher rpms has nothing to do with it but the momentum of the vehicle or flexing of the motor mounts can cause a melted wire to touch metal and ground causing the short! In my case when I removed the intake to replace the rear plugs and wires and valve cover gaskets I accidentally broke the bracket to the egr valve and forgot to at least ziptie it somewhere for a temporary fix causing it to dangle and the valve wiring to rest on the the intake exhaust pipe melting through the wire casing and short out and sometimes it would misfire or simply run like shit and if I hit a bump or simply rough roads it would pop my ignition fuse and took me months to figure it out! If it is a shorted wire (which is my guess) check near the intake or that down pipe you put in, possibly one of your o2 sensors or their wiring! Also for a short, in the dark(as little light as possible) pop the hood with the engine running and rev the throttle by hand and if you see blue flashes you've found your short!
If you still have the electronic controlled suspension, the computer for the ecs will send bad TPS data to the main computer when it starts to fail and cause that sputtering. You can find it in the right rear of the car behind the removable panel. Unplug it and see if your sputtering goes away.
So P0156,P0161,P0170 are all related air fuel ration/drivability if your on stock tune that’s a major issue I don’t want to go into details. I would suggest start with that (you have no catalytic)
Just busted the transmission on my '96 3000GT SL a couple hours ago, I've only had it for 3-4 months now, and it's the worst feeling. Hopefully it's just the slave cylinder, but I haven't been able to take a look yet. I love it so much so I'm not even thinking of giving up on it, but I'm with you here. Sending you the best of luck on this problem, hopefully we both make it through! :)
Had a very similar issue when I tried to push oem turbos to 13-14psi , had that hesitating feeling . And I replaced literally everything , the last thing I replaced was the plugs with the recommended gap for the boost and it fixed the issue
I'm only just now coming across this and don't know any of the background, but one thing I would look at if you haven't yet is the ECU, they are pretty much all failing or about to fail by this point in time due to sub-par quality capacitors that weren't meant to withstand the test of time. Even if it isn't the cause of your current issues it should be replaced/rebuilt as PM if it hasn't been done yet. If you have a local friend with another 3s you might try swapping ECU's, I'm pretty sure they can still have issues even if they look fine, I do know that sputtering is also one of the main issues a failing ECU will have. If it is only sputtering at moderate-high throttle then 9/10x the cause will be a boost leak, by far one of the most commonly overlooked and mis-diagnosed issues. Stock boost gauge in a 3s is the ECU's approximation btw, not an actual boost gauge, I would not rule out a boost leak on that alone especially if you're modded and moving air through the engine easier than stock.
Hey Miguel! I had a 420a eclipse that I put MSD plug wires on and it would misfire all the time I changed coil packs, spark plugs everything. I know it’s not the same engine / platform but I did have issues in the past with MSD plug wires and I ended up using stock OEM wires and it worked after that never had issues again.
What is your wideband saying when it starts sputtering? Is it sputtering upon boost? Have you pulled your plugs and see what condition/ color they're in?
Only does it when the car is up to temperature......same as for me....... I did go new PTU, coil packs and the IACV Idel air control Valve......but you mentioned you did all 4 O2 sensors, - unplug the MAF when its up to temp and see if there's any change - I had one owner tell me its the ECU //// but im going through all of the steps as well ! also check your FPR as well !
Welcome to owning a vr4 buddy! You’ll get through it. The best investment that I got on my vr4 is a standalone ecu. I can send logs to my tuner and he can usually point me in the right direction with finding the iconic 3000gt electrical demons
Miguel check the knock sensors if there is any. I had a super similar issue with my GST, the wire barely got cut and it would completely bog down and go lean under boost/load.
@@MiguelDsm I meant to type go full rich not lean. Good luck man, don’t give up. One thing I learned in the car game is, somebody, somewhere, has had this issue before. You just gotta find that person(s) !
Last time my VR-4 broke up like that it was running lean. Especially if you notice this while you’re on it fairly aggressively and it does this but it runs fine when it’s at part throttle. These cars are thirsty with mods. Even at stock boost they can act like that if the flow through the engine is improved. I’d check the plug gaps if you haven’t, your wires look great, I doubt it’s the PTU as it shouldn’t run right hardly at all with a PTU or bad caps in the ECU. Check your fuel pressure next. If the fuel filter is restricted or the pump is struggling to keep due to old age I can totally see this happening. I’d consider the fuel pump hot wire mod if it hasn’t been done. It makes fuel delivery far more consistent. But if the weather has gotten cooler and the issue is less prevalent in warmer weather then plug gap or fuel pressure are the two places I’d start knowing your plugs, wires, and PTU are all in good order.
I had this problem before if could be fuel pump issue or Injectors I literally replaced Spark plugs , the wires , Coil pack , and Map sensor came out to be the fuel pump and injectors needed to be replaced and that fixed my misfire on cylinder 4 👍 , also replace all sensors man good luck
They early V6 engines from Mitsubishi had issues with crank shaft position sensor Teeth chipping or flying off from the metal part of the crankshaft. Hopefully it isn't that but I would check all the basics. I did basically a whole system overhaul worth of tune ups and was not able to fix my misfire for a year and it drove me nuts. Found out that 3 and 5 we're swapped on the distributor cap. Ran fantastic after that. If you haven't run a fuel injection cleaner through your system I would. Perhaps you have excessive carbon build up in engine and and need to blow it out. However start the car and pull the coils from the spark plugs and see if the engine sounds the same while running or if performance is affected. Then you can narrow down the problem cylinders.
Check that timing and make sure those injectors are working properly. Harbor freight sales a beater spark plug tester that's visible wouldn't hurt to see if it's actually getting spark at all
Sounds like a timing issue from all the stuff you've done. Or an issue with the cam position sensor. Listen to the exhaust and rev the motor up does it sound like a VR4 should or does it miss through the rev range?
It could be the cam sensor, had kina same issue on my 2g after it was warm it wouldn't start, i changed the sensor with a cheap one and with the new cheap one was missfireing like crazy in load, after i changed with an more expensive one(quality brand) works fine, it coud be a bad cam sensor not borken totally but just a bit to give you headaches 😅 , good luck man!✌️
Not sure if anyone's mentioned this but I had a similar issue with my Evo 8 come to find out it was a loose connection on a fuel injector. CHECK YOUR FUEL INJECTOR CLIPS make sure they're fully and properly connected.
most problems on theses 3000gts is boostleaks , have you leak down tested your intercooler pipes from turbos to intake runners , it would explain the stumbling at 3000rmps
Right, different car but I had a 300ZX TT. When warm it would not start, sometimes even when cold. Found it was the PTU (Power Transistor Unit) that the solders would fail. If so, replace it and relocate it. Did this on my Zed and issue solved.
the smaller piece if you bolt it on the heat from the engine will melt it so just leave it hanging this is what i did on my sl and it fixed the problem.
I had a similar misfire on my Ecliose GSX and after replacing a bunch of parts, it was a bad fuel injector. It ran perfect after replacing all ifuel injectors.
I also had the injector ls cleaned, but it continued to misfire after a few minutes of driving it. I finally decided to replace all of the injectors with brand new injectors and it finally no longer misfired. Apparently, a couple of injectors were bad. If cleaning them does not do the trick, brand new ones might help. I hope you find the fix soon. Do not give up!!
Once you get thru the obvious stuff, start thinking of the little things that are right there in front if you but never thiught of before, like out of spec gapped spark plugs, a piece of the engine not torqued down properly, vacuum + boost leak, grounding issues etc
So sorry it didnt work, have you ever done a compression test on the 3000gt? I dont believe you have hard starts on the 3000. If you are i would test compression....maybe its missing on a low cylinder.
What is your afr doing while the sputtering is happening? If it's an ignition issue you should go rich. If it's a fuel issue it could go either way but if it's going lean I'd say it's highly unlikely it's ignition related.
If yours a 98 (flashable ecu) have some one do a street tune also get a boost controller too I had a problem on mine were I couldn't get past 4 or 5k RMP Itd sputter /miss fire bad and after I street tuned it with a friend and also installed a boost controller my vr4 ran beautifully (I have a 98 vr4)
could be timing, could be a slightly bent valve, could be a clogged injector. see if there are any local shops that can flow test your injectors, the miss seems to start around 2500 rpm and continue into higher rpm, so you may just have a failing injector not flowing enough fuel at higher rpm.
Hey bro to find out if one if your coil packs is bad just unplug one and leave the plug near it and if it sparks its good if it doesn't then that is the one that's bad...if you want to try it
Did you do any type of maintenance before you started having this issue? You can pull the plugs and see if there is any difference in their look. You may have an injector not at 100%.
Did you look into walnut blasting? In the BMW scene, especially the twin turbo N54 motors, walnut blasting is recommended every few years. It's a very common reason for misfiring when replacing all other common causes like plugs, coils, etc. don't help. Especially since the car is older and is a high mileage car it could be very likely that the valves just have massive carbon build up and are not functioning correctly.
We’ll if that’s good and from what you changed is good next I’d do a compression test and leak down test.. if that’s good then next is wiring low voltage can do that to the coils bad grounds gotta keep at it but the car is amazing don’t sell
You can polish the wrap with renew or something like that from Gyeon they also have a ceramic coating that works for ppf and vinyl wrap, I have Gtechniq Halo on my car and use Chemical guys wrap detailer or Gtechniq C2 as a topper.
I agree with others here. A leak down test could tell you everything. I know they are fairly new but what plugs are you running? I hear a lot about vr4's running ngk coppers.
@@MiguelDsm cooper spark plugs was what worked for me. Also this is what a VR4 said: .030″ Gap Good all around gap, should not see spark blowout unless your ignition system is weak or running over 20 PSI. .026″ - .028″ With a healthy ignition this is good for 20-25 PSI. .022″ - .026″ Typically good for 25 to 30 PSI. .020″ or less. This is good if your ignition system is a little weak or you are running a lot of boost. As you get under .020″ you may eventually start to see some decreased idle quality, but it may be needed to light off high power setups, especially high boost E85 setups. Hope it helps
maybe the type of spark plugs .... had a legnum here tht was doing the same thing ,guy had in ngk #6 platinums ....i had him change them to #6 ngk U groove copper and gapped them to 0.8 mm ...worked great after tht
It might sound super noobish, and it might sound sooo DUHH… But could it be just faulty spark plugs or gapped improperly? I’m sure you most likely changed plugs already, but it’s possible to buy plugs that are faulty.. My cousin did, drove us nuts. Or as stated, maybe you’re mistaken on what the correct gaps should be in your exact setup? Idk, just saying simple stuff.. Hope you get it sorted out soon!👌🏽
@@MiguelDsm gotcha, I was just making suggestions. Too many times I’ve done pretty much everything else, over thinking things and it’s something as simple as that
Aside from checking timing and doing a compression test, I’ve got a set of stock injectors to test if it’s injector problem. While your ECU did not look bad, I’ve got the ECU out of my 98 that you can use for testing as well. We will just need to flash it back to a stock injector file
Last case scenario bro hit up chai at C & A auto center, that guy there is a Guru on these cars, but get that compression test on all cylinders. Also, you can check if it skipped a tooth by just turning the engine till the timing marks align at the top but i doubt you skipped a tooth cause you’ll get bad idling if a tooth was off, your looking at a performance issue
Did you put in new injectors mine were bad and I bought some cheap ones and it ran good for 5 min then it ran bad but in a different way but found out the injector went out so replaced with one out of an eclips ran good then boom another one went out also have you checked your compression
Did you do a boost leak test I mightve missed that. Air leaks with a maf totally screw it up. Id go mafless unsure if tephra for 4g63 has a 6g72 version. Scanner danner and other guys on YT are really good maybe see if they are in your state. Im running a maxxecu now its very nice and easy.
Also you can adjust your masairflow by removing the silicone it's a phillip head screwdriver. Also the correct plug if your are running alot more boost and torque the plugs to the correct spec.
I own a 1991 mitsubishi GTO TT came across a lot of probleme now its running fine i will never lets this car die its my hole world keep it up!
Miguel. Ive learned over the years on working on cars you can replace everything to no avail. So you're obviously having ignition issues. Dont dig too far yet. Think of something simple right now. Make sure the spark plugs are at the proper gap. It can easily cause that misfire through the rpms. Check plugs and gap (spark blowout). Next consider the fact your wires are defective. Then look into your injectors. They could use a good cleaning. Hope this helps dont start thinking an ecu issue yet. Start back from square 1. It was running great now it isnt. Plugs, wires and injectors. Eliminate 100% those issues before going deeper
Might have to look at everything again. I went through new spark plugs, wires and cleaned injectors. Maybe they’re not gapped to spec
This is sprk plugs , spark plug gap or spark plugs wire problem 100% !!
@@MiguelDsm I agree with this dude..... your doing good, you've at least ruled out 2 potential issues with this video.....
@@MiguelDsm I used to have a vr4 running poorly with new everything. At the end, they were the new spark plugs, just gapped too wide and they were blown up. I got new ones and gapped them at .27 and that fixed the issue. Hope that’s your problem too. Taking out the intake manifold to change them is a pain, but worth it.
Compression test also buddy
3000gt owners are some of the best down to earth people I've ever met. Always willing to help. 👍
Except for SL owners .......... LOL !
Its because transverse/transaxle Mitsubishi ownership is a problem. And the first step to overcoming a problem is admitting you're powerless over that problem.
See what I did there?
Very true I bought another sl and everything I look for is answered in the comments
Start with a leak down test. I had a client that jumped a tooth on the cams and with the custom grinds on the lobes, it had some interference. Not much of a touch, but enough to cause leakage in the intake valves. Next I would do a data stream of the cam and crank sensors and scope out the rise and fall of the signals.
i had this same problem. For me it was the ECU. i pulled mine out and it looked just like yours. however, i bought the chrome from 3sx with stock tune and everything worked great!
Bro don’t give up on it 😢
Just annoyed and concerned with it turning into an expensive fix. Guess Welle see
Diagnosing this, even with a video is difficult. I had a 93 VR4 that was doing something very similar and it was off 1 tooth on the rear cam gears. Reset the timing and bam, worked like a charm. I replaced the belt and tensioner shortly after as I never figured out why it jumped.
If you’re new to the mighty Vr-4 you’re gonna come across some issues. It’s inevitable. If you can grind through it and not lose patience, it will be well worth it my friend.
Coming from DSMS this is fairly familiar. It’s just been a while since I’ve come across a headache like this
@@MiguelDsm You could’ve diagnose the coil packs without pulling them out
@@MiguelDsm unplug your maf see if it drives normal
As someone who literally just found this TH-cam channel, it'll be interesting to watch this series. The Mitsubishi 3000gt is my obtainable JDM dream car, so I'm glad to see what I'll be getting into if I decide to purchase one
check vacuum lines to the wastegate its possible you have a small leak. Also does your throttle body have coolant lines going to it like the eclipse? My car was acting like that too because it was leaking coolant into the intake manifold causing spuddering.
I think I have a code for the wastegate solenoid. I’ll look into it.
I was also wondering about the tb coolant issue too. I do know the 1g has that set up, not sure about the 2g.
Having the same issue as we speak 😢 I hope you find it and relate the knowledge! Keep up the good work.
Hope we can figure it out. Comment if you ever come across a solution!
Hi Adrian I had similar bad running on 4g63 and found a second hand igniter transistor which seemed to work awhile but then it got hot and died. I now use a 3 output v6 one. Id recommend coil on plug to avoid this its my next option.
Verify the part numbers first. Not all PTUs are the same for all years if I remember correctly.
@@Michael-lg4wz that would be the goal to go that route but also looking to keep the car stock and not spend money on this one I have a 92 vr4 making 500hp and would like to modify that one to my pleasing. Might need to upgrade that one and transfer the parts but I’ll see these couple of days and try it out thank you
@@mdargusch I saw a video by (3000gt/gto restorations)on TH-cam he explains everything and yes I need to verify if it’s one of those knock off which do work but just don’t work the same.
I had a similar issue on my 92 vr4 back in 1999 and it was my ecu. I had it rebuilt and the problem went away. I'm sorry you're having so many issues with your car. Last year I went with a Aem series 2 ecu and I would definitely recommend it if you plan to keep the car for a long time. It gives you a lot better control over your car. I owned mine since 1992 and im telling you its definitely worth putting in the time and effort to get to the root of your problem. 30 years later I still get a huge smile every time I drive My car.
I would check crank cam signals if you have that and harness as well and does it do it when it’s cold???
It drives alot better when cold
Dude this is a really cool car don't give up on it, not many TH-camrs take on the challenge too work on a unique build like this.
She sounds so raw I love it. Please don’t give up on it you’re a Mitsubishi legend 💯
Surprised with a modded car your not running at least an AFR gauge. Tells you a LOT about how your cars running. And could save you from breaking stuff. Wouldn't take mine out at this point ever. If it isnt running right the AFRs go all sorts of funky and you know immediately its either not enough fuel or too much air. and vice-versa.
Hey Miguel, I had a similar issue on my DSM. Turned out to be a semi faulty cam angle sensor. I also replaced the cps too and found that the crank pulley wasn't tightened down properly (previous owner).
Check the fuel tank for rust... Also check your fuel for water.. and your intercooler for water.. also clogged injectiors if you have rust in your tank also disconnect your computer for the struts if you have that
But go basics first plugs wires etc and what are the codes you’re getting
Those cars like stock style wires and plugs
try a compression or leak down test. You could also take a look at the wideband during the break up issue to see how the fueling looks exactly when it occurs. You could also use a timing light and check the ignition timing.
Will be doing that next
I think that’s what needs to change here. Stop throwing parts at it and start doing diagnostic trouble shooting. Who’s knows how lean the car ram and for how long with the fuel pump issues it had. Could have burnt a valve or piston at this point. Just gotta start diagnosing and stop throwing parts at it. Not being mean but that’s where you are at. Too much money and time spent so far to be no where with it.
You've got this Miguel! You have a whole community behind you to help. On my 92 my breaking up issues were caused by boost and vacuum leaks. So like so many others have said, pressure testing the motor and the boost and vacuum lines will tell you a lot. Can your Wideband gauge do logging? Some of the new AEM ones can, so that might be worth looking into as well.
I know it's frustrating, but don't let it get to you. Alright, off to go put my new Chrome ECU in my VR4 before work.
When I had my 91 vr4 I would source all my parts from 3sx performance it was the only place on the east coast that readily had parts for it. It’s where I got my rebuilt ECU and their team helped me troubleshoot my issues, try reaching out to them.
Hope this helps
do a compression test. you could be down on compression on a cylinder
Hoping not..
I hope he keeps going with the Vr-4. As a new gto owner these videos give me so much hope lol btw the car and the footage looks amazing!! 🔥💯
Mine stealth Turbo needed the fuel injectors rebuilt.
Also it did need coils later.
My capacitors leaked, but my ECU board looked a little different than yours (1991) and had a clear need for capacitor replacement which helped.
By the way...I replaced all 3 coil packs and one of the 3 went bad very quickly. Good thing I kept my originals and put the best old one on. That got it running great again.
Did you check the primary and secondary resistance of the coils you put on? Sometimes new ones are bad.
Also check the primary and secondary resistance of the originals to see if one was bad or not.
That's all the advice I've got from having lived your pain.
Had the same issue with my GTO MR, ended up throwing a tons of parts at it and it ended up being a faulty fuel pump and 2 injectors. My advice, like a few has suggested, do a leak down and compression test first, then a pressure test if the first two turns out ok. If all turn out positive, tackle your fuel and air mixture.
That’s the plan. Thanks Mario
If it's still not working, I would try and find a replacement ECU and then try your throttle position sensor if it's sputtering. A bad throttle position sensor can sometimes cause this.
Never give up on that 3000 GT… Once you get it right it is going to be fabulous
Brother, I have been down your street with owning 3 gen 1 Talons. My cars were broke a lot! The VR4 is a more complicated 4g63. I went from a talon the most unreliable car to the second most unreliable car my 91 300zx tt. I built mine and it’s been very reliable for the last 5 years. 600 wheel hp and track it a few times a year. These cars are amazing with a heart of Japanese samurai. Keep wrenching and driving. Keep up the videos.
Does it throw any trouble codes? Do a smoke test to find any vacuum/boost leaks. What are your spark plugs gapped at? What kind of spark plugs are you running? How much power are you making? Gap the plugs at .32 or lower if you still have problems. I’ve had mine at .18 at one point. Use Copper or Iridium and get one range colder than stock.
check your injectors and see what your AFR's are running when your breaking up. Also cant remember if youve tuned it since you put some mods on it..might be a good idea to revisit your tune and see if its leaning out at certain rpms. Oh yea check your timing. Run it up to 1 TDC and check and make sure all of your timing marks are aligned. These cars love to jump time.
I had them cleaned and tested already. That’s why I’m a little lost. Have a local buddy with Evo scan. Just need to get chrome
@@MiguelDsm im just trying to let you know what i had to deal with. Mine had a p0300 which is a random misfire. Wound up being bad spark plug wires. But first thing i checked was timing, then pulled the plugs out on the first bank and ground them out on the pull bracket on the front head and and visually checked for spark. Then had to re-gap the spark plugs because no shit at .038 gap at 12.5:1 compression they didn't want to spark. And the ones that came out were gapped at .028. Then threw in some 8mm msd wires and the misfiring cleared up. Sometimes its a combination of issues.
@@MiguelDsm Don't give up man! Plug in that evoscan and log a drive with it. It should tell you what is happening when it breaks up at 3-4k rpm.
@@MiguelDsm Also your Cam timing sensor could be going bad to throwing your timing off. But definintly data log it to get a better picture of whats going on.
Your car doesn't have the adjustable cam sensor but I still recommend getting a timing gun and grounding the brown ignition timing terminal. The brown terminal is located near the passenger side strut tower near the fire wall. When you ground this it will lock the cars ignition timing to base ignition timing, which should be 5-7 degrees BTDC. Set your timing gun to 5-7 degrees and check the crank pulley. If the timing is off that would definitely cause drivability issues. The problem is your car being a 93+ doesn't have the adjustable CAS sensor like on the older 91-92's. So the next thing to do would be to inspect around the CAS sensor, located in the timing belt area, for signs of problems. There's a sensor plug around the middle of the timing cover that can come loose or corroded, and check the sensor itself to see if it has become loose or the wire/harness are damaged or corroded. If you're going to be pulling the cover to see if your timing belt skipped a tooth then you might as well put some attention to the CAS sensor as well, its right there.
Dude the cinematics was dope.
You got this Miguel! The platform of VR4 is difficult and figuring out what’s the issue.
When they’re down I can see them being a hassle but it’s been nothing but a pleasure to drive
I owned a 3000gt a few years back and had the same issue and did the same things you did. What fixed my issue was the crank sensor. Located behind the timing cover on the gen 2s. After I replaced that the car was fixed. Before giving up I'd try the crank sensor and the cam sensor
Have you checked the crankshaft sensor? It’s easy to swap out for a quick check
No I have not. Someone else mentioned it as well
I thought the coil packs would have worked. Hopefully you get it fixed soon. I would like to know what's causing you problems.
Boost leak test? Which plugs wires did you use? I just went through this with a remote tune VR4. Cam timing checked out, boost leaks fixed, throttle body calibrated, found a faulty "new" plug wire. Ohm them.
Hey buddy, have you done a boost leak test? May need to do that. Also what a/f ratio are you running when it skips? Is it leaning out? See if you can get the fuel pressure checked too. Youd be surprised how a few psi can affect things. One last thing, plugs, when was they last changed, what kind are you running?
If you want to check timing get cylinder 1 to TDC and pull the top timing covers. I understand the frustration, but don't give up on her, she does want fixed, you just gotta sweet talk her 😅.
Plugs are fairly new. Need to keep an eye on fuel pressure and afrs during stutter. I’ll be taking it in to a shop to see if we can figure it out
@@MiguelDsm good luck buddy. It could be something simple. 1 tooth off wouldn't normally act that way in my experience. It would need to be a few teeth. But I think you'd be having more issues if it was the tbelt.
Can confirm, VR4 owner here and I had a sputter at higher RPM (Around 5.3-6k) turns out the old 90s dry rotted plastic turbo piping had a chunk out the backside of the pipe. I upgraded to Metal piping and it seems to have resolved the issue in my smoke and pressure test (Im stuck waiting on a couple parts to confirm driving wise)
I would do a boost leak test if you have any throttlebody or intake gasket/seal leaks another thing that comes to mind is check the electrical connectors for the ptu and the ignition coils sometimes the seals can wear out and you get moisture in the connectors and the pins won't contact as well as they used to, i cleaned all my connectors under my hood of my car the day i bought it and put dielectric tune up grease on the connectors to help keep moisture out never regretted it also made removing connectors easier in the future, maybe add a few extra ground connectors to the car, or clean up all the existing grounds, also i would think cleaning the isc and throttle body would be a good idea as well.
Not sure if u figured this out but i had a problem where the car ran ok but sometimes the idle was off and got stuck in random positions, but most of all between 3-4k rpm it would do this weird putting unless i put it under load, turned out the egr valve was throwing off my ignition time because the exhaust was causing causing to much heat. Idk if the 300gt has an egr but otherwise don't count out electrical
beautiful car man. These are so underappreciated.
Dam bro the car is looking so good , don't give up you'll figure it out .
Just need a slight break from it
Every time I had misfire issues with my avenger it almost always had something to do with the back 3 cylinders under the intake, it's very easy to screw up a bracket and melt a wire causing a short and sometimes the higher rpms has nothing to do with it but the momentum of the vehicle or flexing of the motor mounts can cause a melted wire to touch metal and ground causing the short! In my case when I removed the intake to replace the rear plugs and wires and valve cover gaskets I accidentally broke the bracket to the egr valve and forgot to at least ziptie it somewhere for a temporary fix causing it to dangle and the valve wiring to rest on the the intake exhaust pipe melting through the wire casing and short out and sometimes it would misfire or simply run like shit and if I hit a bump or simply rough roads it would pop my ignition fuse and took me months to figure it out! If it is a shorted wire (which is my guess) check near the intake or that down pipe you put in, possibly one of your o2 sensors or their wiring!
Also for a short, in the dark(as little light as possible) pop the hood with the engine running and rev the throttle by hand and if you see blue flashes you've found your short!
Need to check fuel pressure under load, fuel pump resistor maybe going out not supplying full voltage to pump
If you still have the electronic controlled suspension, the computer for the ecs will send bad TPS data to the main computer when it starts to fail and cause that sputtering. You can find it in the right rear of the car behind the removable panel. Unplug it and see if your sputtering goes away.
So P0156,P0161,P0170 are all related air fuel ration/drivability if your on stock tune that’s a major issue I don’t want to go into details. I would suggest start with that (you have no catalytic)
Just busted the transmission on my '96 3000GT SL a couple hours ago, I've only had it for 3-4 months now, and it's the worst feeling. Hopefully it's just the slave cylinder, but I haven't been able to take a look yet. I love it so much so I'm not even thinking of giving up on it, but I'm with you here. Sending you the best of luck on this problem, hopefully we both make it through! :)
Had a very similar issue when I tried to push oem turbos to 13-14psi , had that hesitating feeling . And I replaced literally everything , the last thing I replaced was the plugs with the recommended gap for the boost and it fixed the issue
My car only hesitated on boost tho
I'm only just now coming across this and don't know any of the background, but one thing I would look at if you haven't yet is the ECU, they are pretty much all failing or about to fail by this point in time due to sub-par quality capacitors that weren't meant to withstand the test of time. Even if it isn't the cause of your current issues it should be replaced/rebuilt as PM if it hasn't been done yet. If you have a local friend with another 3s you might try swapping ECU's, I'm pretty sure they can still have issues even if they look fine, I do know that sputtering is also one of the main issues a failing ECU will have. If it is only sputtering at moderate-high throttle then 9/10x the cause will be a boost leak, by far one of the most commonly overlooked and mis-diagnosed issues. Stock boost gauge in a 3s is the ECU's approximation btw, not an actual boost gauge, I would not rule out a boost leak on that alone especially if you're modded and moving air through the engine easier than stock.
Hey Miguel! I had a 420a eclipse that I put MSD plug wires on and it would misfire all the time I changed coil packs, spark plugs everything. I know it’s not the same engine / platform but I did have issues in the past with MSD plug wires and I ended up using stock OEM wires and it worked after that never had issues again.
Never give up Anything is possible we Believe in you!!!!💯
What is your wideband saying when it starts sputtering? Is it sputtering upon boost? Have you pulled your plugs and see what condition/ color they're in?
Only does it when the car is up to temperature......same as for me....... I did go new PTU, coil packs and the IACV Idel air control Valve......but you mentioned you did all 4 O2 sensors, - unplug the MAF when its up to temp and see if there's any change - I had one owner tell me its the ECU //// but im going through all of the steps as well ! also check your FPR as well !
Welcome to owning a vr4 buddy! You’ll get through it.
The best investment that I got on my vr4 is a standalone ecu. I can send logs to my tuner and he can usually point me in the right direction with finding the iconic 3000gt electrical demons
Miguel check the knock sensors if there is any. I had a super similar issue with my GST, the wire barely got cut and it would completely bog down and go lean under boost/load.
Thanks for the tip. I’ll look over it
@@MiguelDsm I meant to type go full rich not lean. Good luck man, don’t give up. One thing I learned in the car game is, somebody, somewhere, has had this issue before. You just gotta find that person(s) !
Last time my VR-4 broke up like that it was running lean. Especially if you notice this while you’re on it fairly aggressively and it does this but it runs fine when it’s at part throttle.
These cars are thirsty with mods. Even at stock boost they can act like that if the flow through the engine is improved. I’d check the plug gaps if you haven’t, your wires look great, I doubt it’s the PTU as it shouldn’t run right hardly at all with a PTU or bad caps in the ECU. Check your fuel pressure next. If the fuel filter is restricted or the pump is struggling to keep due to old age I can totally see this happening.
I’d consider the fuel pump hot wire mod if it hasn’t been done. It makes fuel delivery far more consistent. But if the weather has gotten cooler and the issue is less prevalent in warmer weather then plug gap or fuel pressure are the two places I’d start knowing your plugs, wires, and PTU are all in good order.
I've Always Liked The Doors one These because of The Scoops 💯 It Kinda Has an Exotic Look ! 🙂
They actually vent the air to cool the rear brakes 🙏🏾
Bro check all your spark plugs it might soaking with oil and replaced it hope it helps to solve misfiring
Might be checking them soon
Mosfit on the ecu can cause the issues as well. Also, check fuel pressure.
True fuel pump cutting out or not keeping pressure built even
I had this problem before if could be fuel pump issue or Injectors I literally replaced Spark plugs , the wires , Coil pack , and Map sensor came out to be the fuel pump and injectors needed to be replaced and that fixed my misfire on cylinder 4 👍 , also replace all sensors man good luck
They early V6 engines from Mitsubishi had issues with crank shaft position sensor Teeth chipping or flying off from the metal part of the crankshaft. Hopefully it isn't that but I would check all the basics. I did basically a whole system overhaul worth of tune ups and was not able to fix my misfire for a year and it drove me nuts. Found out that 3 and 5 we're swapped on the distributor cap. Ran fantastic after that. If you haven't run a fuel injection cleaner through your system I would. Perhaps you have excessive carbon build up in engine and and need to blow it out. However start the car and pull the coils from the spark plugs and see if the engine sounds the same while running or if performance is affected. Then you can narrow down the problem cylinders.
Check that timing and make sure those injectors are working properly. Harbor freight sales a beater spark plug tester that's visible wouldn't hurt to see if it's actually getting spark at all
Thanks for the insight!
Thinking of buying a 3000GT. Is there anything I should look out for, or be aware of?
Sounds like a timing issue from all the stuff you've done. Or an issue with the cam position sensor. Listen to the exhaust and rev the motor up does it sound like a VR4 should or does it miss through the rev range?
It could be the cam sensor, had kina same issue on my 2g after it was warm it wouldn't start, i changed the sensor with a cheap one and with the new cheap one was missfireing like crazy in load, after i changed with an more expensive one(quality brand) works fine, it coud be a bad cam sensor not borken totally but just a bit to give you headaches 😅 , good luck man!✌️
Not sure if anyone's mentioned this but I had a similar issue with my Evo 8 come to find out it was a loose connection on a fuel injector. CHECK YOUR FUEL INJECTOR CLIPS make sure they're fully and properly connected.
most problems on theses 3000gts is boostleaks , have you leak down tested your intercooler pipes from turbos to intake runners , it would explain the stumbling at 3000rmps
Right, different car but I had a 300ZX TT. When warm it would not start, sometimes even when cold. Found it was the PTU (Power Transistor Unit) that the solders would fail. If so, replace it and relocate it. Did this on my Zed and issue solved.
the smaller piece if you bolt it on the heat from the engine will melt it so just leave it hanging this is what i did on my sl and it fixed the problem.
I had a similar misfire on my Ecliose GSX and after replacing a bunch of parts, it was a bad fuel injector. It ran perfect after replacing all ifuel injectors.
Had these cleaned recently. Hoping one didn’t go out
I also had the injector ls cleaned, but it continued to misfire after a few minutes of driving it. I finally decided to replace all of the injectors with brand new injectors and it finally no longer misfired. Apparently, a couple of injectors were bad. If cleaning them does not do the trick, brand new ones might help. I hope you find the fix soon. Do not give up!!
did u chek fuel pump and fuel filters ? I had same problem on my 3g maybe it will help ur car
Once you get thru the obvious stuff, start thinking of the little things that are right there in front if you but never thiught of before, like out of spec gapped spark plugs, a piece of the engine not torqued down properly, vacuum + boost leak, grounding issues etc
Take a break but never give up 🆙 ❤ you got this
Yea taking some time away from it to regroup
My thoughts
Not sure if someone already said this, plug gapping? Buddies evo did the same thing until we changed and correctly gapped the plugs
So sorry it didnt work, have you ever done a compression test on the 3000gt? I dont believe you have hard starts on the 3000. If you are i would test compression....maybe its missing on a low cylinder.
Currently thinking on checking timing and compression first, then moving on from there
What is your afr doing while the sputtering is happening? If it's an ignition issue you should go rich. If it's a fuel issue it could go either way but if it's going lean I'd say it's highly unlikely it's ignition related.
Didn’t know that. I’ll check the afrs next time I drive
Check your sparkplug Gap. Could be spark blowout. Newer Ecus like yours "usually" don't have the leaky caps like the early cars.
If yours a 98 (flashable ecu) have some one do a street tune also get a boost controller too
I had a problem on mine were I couldn't get past 4 or 5k RMP Itd sputter /miss fire bad and after I street tuned it with a friend and also installed a boost controller my vr4 ran beautifully (I have a 98 vr4)
It’s already on a Turbosmart boost controller. Just need to get chrome to flash it
could be timing, could be a slightly bent valve, could be a clogged injector. see if there are any local shops that can flow test your injectors, the miss seems to start around 2500 rpm and continue into higher rpm, so you may just have a failing injector not flowing enough fuel at higher rpm.
Hey bro to find out if one if your coil packs is bad just unplug one and leave the plug near it and if it sparks its good if it doesn't then that is the one that's bad...if you want to try it
Already replaced it with another working set. I don’t think it’s that man
Did you do any type of maintenance before you started having this issue? You can pull the plugs and see if there is any difference in their look. You may have an injector not at 100%.
Same issue with my talon tsi check the spark plug gap. Di thg h more boost you need to decrease the gap. 0.28
Get your ecu checked as I was having problems aswell and it was the coil packs that fried my ecu.
Did you look into walnut blasting? In the BMW scene, especially the twin turbo N54 motors, walnut blasting is recommended every few years. It's a very common reason for misfiring when replacing all other common causes like plugs, coils, etc. don't help. Especially since the car is older and is a high mileage car it could be very likely that the valves just have massive carbon build up and are not functioning correctly.
Sounds like fuel cute or break up check your pump and injectors what does the afr read?
New pump and cleaned injectors. Afrs seemed normal
We’ll if that’s good and from what you changed is good next I’d do a compression test and leak down test.. if that’s good then next is wiring low voltage can do that to the coils bad grounds gotta keep at it but the car is amazing don’t sell
You can polish the wrap with renew or something like that from Gyeon they also have a ceramic coating that works for ppf and vinyl wrap, I have Gtechniq Halo on my car and use Chemical guys wrap detailer or Gtechniq C2 as a topper.
Gotcha. Thanks Daniel!
I agree with others here. A leak down test could tell you everything. I know they are fairly new but what plugs are you running? I hear a lot about vr4's running ngk coppers.
Running the NGK spark plugs
@@MiguelDsm cooper spark plugs was what worked for me. Also this is what a VR4 said:
.030″ Gap
Good all around gap, should not see spark blowout unless your ignition system is weak or running over 20 PSI.
.026″ - .028″
With a healthy ignition this is good for 20-25 PSI.
.022″ - .026″
Typically good for 25 to 30 PSI.
.020″ or less.
This is good if your ignition system is a little weak or you are running a lot of boost. As you get under .020″ you may eventually start to see some decreased idle quality, but it may be needed to light off high power setups, especially high boost E85 setups.
Hope it helps
maybe the type of spark plugs .... had a legnum here tht was doing the same thing ,guy had in ngk #6 platinums ....i had him change them to #6 ngk U groove copper and gapped them to 0.8 mm ...worked great after tht
What a bummer!! Can the 3000gt take on a front mout without getting tuned? Could be a Grounding issue, tuning, or timing like mentioned.
It might sound super noobish, and it might sound sooo DUHH… But could it be just faulty spark plugs or gapped improperly?
I’m sure you most likely changed plugs already, but it’s possible to buy plugs that are faulty.. My cousin did, drove us nuts. Or as stated, maybe you’re mistaken on what the correct gaps should be in your exact setup?
Idk, just saying simple stuff.. Hope you get it sorted out soon!👌🏽
Might have to check the gap. If I recall I think they’re supposed to be at .28
@@MiguelDsm gotcha, I was just making suggestions. Too many times I’ve done pretty much everything else, over thinking things and it’s something as simple as that
Aside from checking timing and doing a compression test, I’ve got a set of stock injectors to test if it’s injector problem. While your ECU did not look bad, I’ve got the ECU out of my 98 that you can use for testing as well. We will just need to flash it back to a stock injector file
Thats the flashable ecu, btw have you tested out your injectors? Take them out and clean them because timing world be foulty all the time
Yea, they’ve been cleaned and tested
maybe the resistor pack can make that type of faults hehe
Last case scenario bro hit up chai at C & A auto center, that guy there is a Guru on these cars, but get that compression test on all cylinders. Also, you can check if it skipped a tooth by just turning the engine till the timing marks align at the top but i doubt you skipped a tooth cause you’ll get bad idling if a tooth was off, your looking at a performance issue
Boost leak or spark blowout maybe
Have you compression tested it?
Not yet. It’s on the list
My Stealth did this when I put fuel containing ethanol in it. I put some 91 octane non ethanol fuel in and it's running like new again. Good luck!
MFI relay or clogged injector(s)?
Did you put in new injectors mine were bad and I bought some cheap ones and it ran good for 5 min then it ran bad but in a different way but found out the injector went out so replaced with one out of an eclips ran good then boom another one went out also have you checked your compression
Did you do a boost leak test I mightve missed that. Air leaks with a maf totally screw it up. Id go mafless unsure if tephra for 4g63 has a 6g72 version. Scanner danner and other guys on YT are really good maybe see if they are in your state.
Im running a maxxecu now its very nice and easy.
Never managed to boost leak test it. I’ll add that to the list
Also you can adjust your masairflow by removing the silicone it's a phillip head screwdriver. Also the correct plug if your are running alot more boost and torque the plugs to the correct spec.