Hi Mike yes still active and the bikes running really well 🤷♂️🤷♂️ There’s not much oil in the clutch case so there’s definitely a leak coming in , there’s only two oil seals in there as far as I remember and sadly the only way to see is by taking it all off again 😡😡😡 Another thing to check would be the oil return to tank when it’s running to make sure it’s retuning nice and strong not dribbling!! If that makes sense 🤦♂️ let me know how you get on 👍
I hope you’re still active. That video helped me loads when changing my sprocket seal. Only problem was that it wasn’t the source of my oil leak. Pretty sure it is engine oil leaking out of the back of the primary chain case after trips of a couple of miles or more. It’s higher that the sprocket, and looks like it’s leaking from behind the clutch. Surely primary chain oil shouldn’t get that high? Any pointers would be very welcome - and thanks again for a wonderful video.
Instead of the bent bit of metal I use worn-out 1 plain and 1 friction plate bolted together with long bolts. The longer bolts assist in removing the tool. That centre nut needs some decent torque to tighten. With the bolted plates, there is no chance of the tool flinging out. I never had to use gasket compound on the sealing surfaces. Good quality gaskets lubricated with grease always sealed for me, and it also allows the covers to come off without breaking the gaskets and having to scrape the remains off the soft aluminium. marking the plates is a good idea if using existing, but marking the inner and outer drums doesn't matter, as when the clutch lever is pulled, one spins and the other is stationary, unless you have clutch drag. Tighten up the primary cover is best done your way. It is also worth checking the if the previous owner has over-tighten the screws. Rub a finger nail over the top of the crankcase holes with the thread in them. If slightly proud, it will be difficult to stop oil leaks. A touch of a counter-sink tool in a hand drill, not electric, just removes a little proud thread for the gasket to seal. Just don't go mad. 20 tooth is a bit big. The chain can leave gouges in the crankcase with a sprocket that size. Better to get a rear sprocket with less teeth. Thanks for the video. It shows how relatively easy it is to maintain these older British bikes.
Mine has a 16" chopper rear wheel so i had to cram in a 21t sprocket, contoured it out and dremeled the cover and it just barely slides in. Didnt cause any additional leaks and now it cruises at 60mph 👍
Great video, thank you 🙂 did you have to do anything with the crankcase protector? I have heard that this can rub if you go up to a 20T? I am thinking about doing what you have done while I have the engine out.
Hi Andrew I put the 20 tooth on really to give the engine an easier time as I ride it like my other bikes and not being precious and slow because it’s a 49 year old bike , It will sit at 55-60 mph quite happily and in normal traffic at 30 in 3rd ,Acceleration wise these have long gears anyway being only four speed gear box and I haven’t noticed any fall off really, Hope this helps ? Are you filming your build ? Put a link in 👍
T100boy how have you got on with that 20 tooth sprocket? At the moment I am halfway through an engine rebuild and am considering going up from the std 18 tooth on my C. Any impressions on how it rides would be much appreciated.
I'm puzzled; I wanted to see a video that would help me take my clutch apart. there was a lot of talking and static shots, slightly less helpful than the Haynes manual. I'll try somewhere else.
sorry it wasnt helpful at this point but im sure once you have taken your clutch out it will make more sense, I was trying not to teach people how to suck eggs. But thanks for the comment and watching
Hi Mike yes still active and the bikes running really well 🤷♂️🤷♂️
There’s not much oil in the clutch case so there’s definitely a leak coming in , there’s only two oil seals in there as far as I remember and sadly the only way to see is by taking it all off again 😡😡😡
Another thing to check would be the oil return to tank when it’s running to make sure it’s retuning nice and strong not dribbling!! If that makes sense 🤦♂️ let me know how you get on 👍
I hope you’re still active. That video helped me loads when changing my sprocket seal. Only problem was that it wasn’t the source of my oil leak. Pretty sure it is engine oil leaking out of the back of the primary chain case after trips of a couple of miles or more. It’s higher that the sprocket, and looks like it’s leaking from behind the clutch. Surely primary chain oil shouldn’t get that high? Any pointers would be very welcome - and thanks again for a wonderful video.
Instead of the bent bit of metal I use worn-out 1 plain and 1 friction plate bolted together with long bolts. The longer bolts assist in removing the tool. That centre nut needs some decent torque to tighten. With the bolted plates, there is no chance of the tool flinging out. I never had to use gasket compound on the sealing surfaces. Good quality gaskets lubricated with grease always sealed for me, and it also allows the covers to come off without breaking the gaskets and having to scrape the remains off the soft aluminium.
marking the plates is a good idea if using existing, but marking the inner and outer drums doesn't matter, as when the clutch lever is pulled, one spins and the other is stationary, unless you have clutch drag.
Tighten up the primary cover is best done your way. It is also worth checking the if the previous owner has over-tighten the screws. Rub a finger nail over the top of the crankcase holes with the thread in them. If slightly proud, it will be difficult to stop oil leaks. A touch of a counter-sink tool in a hand drill, not electric, just removes a little proud thread for the gasket to seal. Just don't go mad.
20 tooth is a bit big. The chain can leave gouges in the crankcase with a sprocket that size. Better to get a rear sprocket with less teeth.
Thanks for the video. It shows how relatively easy it is to maintain these older British bikes.
Good video, I enjoyed it. Hope you are well.
Mine has a 16" chopper rear wheel so i had to cram in a 21t sprocket, contoured it out and dremeled the cover and it just barely slides in. Didnt cause any additional leaks and now it cruises at 60mph 👍
Thanks Wayne,the bike is still going strong with no issues,
Great video, thank you 🙂 did you have to do anything with the crankcase protector? I have heard that this can rub if you go up to a 20T? I am thinking about doing what you have done while I have the engine out.
no nothing , and I ran the bike like that until I sold it this year and had no problems
@@T100boy thank you, just realised how old the original video was! looks like you had a good run on the bike though!! 🙂👍
Hi Andrew
I put the 20 tooth on really to give the engine an easier time as I ride it like my other bikes and not being precious and slow because it’s a 49 year old bike , It will sit at 55-60 mph quite happily and in normal traffic at 30 in 3rd ,Acceleration wise these have long gears anyway being only four speed gear box and I haven’t noticed any fall off really,
Hope this helps ?
Are you filming your build ? Put a link in 👍
Love love love that little tool idea!! Who came up with that?
Thanks for sharing 😊
Very nice, but you skipped the part I need to see. How to remove the sprocket. I can't get it to budge after the high gear is knocked out.
you need a puller to get it off, that is what the two threaded holes in the sprocket are for
Ave you bent back the locking washer so the nut can turn ?
Doubt it will be as usable off road with the bigger front sprocket.
T100boy how have you got on with that 20 tooth sprocket? At the moment I am halfway through an engine rebuild and am considering going up from the std 18 tooth on my C. Any impressions on how it rides would be much appreciated.
Yes once the roller are out the basket comes off
Cheers for watching, I made the little tool Iv never seen it anywhere else
Very smart.
Excellent........!
Can you get the gearbox seal out from this side
thank you for sharing
ok, but i didnt see how the 'hub' came off? it was just suddenly off! does it just tap off? i cant see a way to 'pull' on it...thanks
Sorry can you get the seal behind the sprocket out from this side?
Yes you can, carefully drill in two self tapping screws into the seal and use these to wiggel it out
Thank you for watching hope it helped
I'm puzzled; I wanted to see a video that would help me take my clutch apart. there was a lot of talking and static shots, slightly less helpful than the Haynes manual. I'll try somewhere else.
sorry it wasnt helpful at this point but im sure once you have taken your clutch out it will make more sense, I was trying not to teach people how to suck eggs.
But thanks for the comment and watching
Please for Gods sake get rid of that blasted horn in the beginning and end.
I don’t use that intro anymore 😂😂😂