Vintage Fuel Gauge/Sending Unit Testing [Dodge Pickup]
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ต.ค. 2024
- 1978 Dodge Power Wagon W150 with a fuel gauge that reads empty all the time. The tests shown in this video can be applied to all Chrylser/Dodge/Plymouth instrument clusters (printed circuit boards) that contain an IVR (instrument voltage regulator) and are using thermostatic gauges. This also includes the engine coolant temperature and oil pressure gauges.
ScannerDanner Tools:
www.scannerdan...
www.amazon.com...
For more information on this topic, I have written a “field manual” called Engine Performance Diagnostics which is available at www.scannerdanner.com as an eBook or paper book.
Want even more diagnostic training? Whether you are a DIY trying to fix your own car, someone looking to become an auto technician, or a current auto technician that wants to get more into diagnostics, subscribe to ScannerDanner Premium www.scannerdan... There is a 14 day free trial.
On ScannerDanner Premium I will bring you right into my classroom at Rosedale Technical College. You will find page for page lectures taken right from my book as well as exclusive classroom type case studies. What is so special about these classroom case studies? I pull live problem vehicles directly into my classroom and we troubleshoot them in real time, using and applying the theory and testing procedures we learn during the classroom lectures. There is no better on-line training of how to troubleshoot automotive electrical and electronics systems anywhere!
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of ScannerDanner LLC, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. ScannerDanner LLC assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. ScannerDanner LLC recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of ScannerDanner LLC, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not ScannerDanner LLC.
It was nice to see your kids and it's funny because time flys, I remember may in a video and you were at Pete's doing a job and May way just a little girl with blonde hair if I'm not mistaken. Wow time flys. I remember when you first started this you tube channel. No one has come close to teaching electrical diag like you. I always admired the transparency in your teaching. You don't even hide your mistakes. You laugh at them and teach us this is reality even for a pro.
She was a little blonde when she was younger. Thank you once again Mike!
We like it when you ScannerDanner it. That's why we watch. It's nice seeing thoughtful diagnosing. 😉
Love this series😍, lot's to learn about these old school systems, I never new about the pulsed signal from the IVR until today & the testing methods you teached us😍
Superb, Thanks for sharing SD honestly at the end I wished there was 30 min's of bonus footage😍
Love you guy's, Stay Blessed Danner Family❤
Interestingly I've just started troubleshooting a '78 Dodge Power Wagon fuel gauge problem. If you watch the whole video you can actually come up with a brilliant way to check the fuel gauge/sender without climbing under the truck. The sender wire is available at a connector on the firewall in the engine bay. Just connect a scope from there to ground and measure the peak voltages of the square wave. You can interpolate full (4.5v pp) to empty (9.4v pp) or wiring problem (steady 5v). Easy diagnostic technique that techs didn't even have at their disposal when the trucks were new.
Always good to see May, Daughters are such a treasure, great video Paul!
Good seen your hole faimly, I've got a 95 Nissan truck put a fuel pump and drive down rd and it cuts off its driving me crazy. Keep up the good work and may God bless you and your family
This is in reference to your comment about "ScannerDanner'ng it". My first wife used to watch the show "Green Acres", whenever Eddie would start making speeches in the show patriotic music would play. When I would talk shop to my wife she would start sing the national anthem. I guess until you heart the "music" you're golden. Great video. Keep up the hard work for all of us.
🤣🤣 nice
So cool that you involve your family in your videos. Shows that they are going to be videographers instead of mechanics and make way more money with so much less stress. Lol
Just 1 boy, and maybe my daughter 😉
Hi May, great job helping your Dad.
A little trick I learned repairing a float for a Model T carburetor is to have a bowl of ice water handy as you solder the float heat builds up causing the gas vapor to expand leaving pin holes in your solder. Dipping the float in the ice water prevents any pressure from building up!
That's a great tip!
thank you Mr Danner and Sons and May...great video love seeing the scope test on some old school cool truck..did not know it pulsed the signal ...very cool indeed
Even though you get some heat for making mistakes in videos, comments or whatever, we learn a lot from seeing your whole thought processes. You catch yourself and find the real issue. I’ve never seen you give up. Makes you an awesome teacher!
Thank you so much. Made my moring
@@ScannerDanner absolutely! I like hearing the process. Keeps us honest and questioning things. If we don’t question things we are no longer growing independently. Hope things are going well in your life!
@@automotivated5934 one day at a time my friend, worry for today, for we are never promised tomorrow 😉
@@ScannerDanner you know it! 🗽🙏
from what I recall, the IVR was just a heated bimetallic flasher setup internally. the voltage coming out would be relative to the battery/vehicle running voltage, minus the strip heater voltage drop.
the thing on the side of the IVR is a wire wound resistor, if you notice it says "60 ohm and 5% tolerance". 60 ohm's divided by 12V is 5 volts, or whatever the nominal vehicle battery/running voltage is.
with no load the IVR's bimetallic strip heater current would be low and not hot enough to cycle. the cycle rate(pulse width) would depend on the total current load.
Great video, Danner. Lots of information on a fairly common automotive circuit. I knew everything about all of your testing, with the exception of the pulsed operation of the circuit, when operating correctly. Looking forward to your next chapter.
Scanner Danner my fuel gauge always reads full. This video is definitely informative and detailed, thank you for the video
Step 1, disconnect the sending unit wire and see if the gauge drops. If it does, your issue is in your tank/sending unit
About the long winded explanation....I personally LOVE the ScannerDanner treatment of it. Keep up the amazing work/explanation of them. Some people do have attention spans longer than 30 seconds 😂 blessings from Arizona.
My man, thank you!
I sure would like to have that truck! Reminds me so much of my old 78 Dodge when i built a sweet 440BB/727 for it.
Mine was just a 1978 short bed 2WD. She was hell on wet roads, lemme tell yah, LOL
I found some junk in the bottom of a tank and used a little $20 fuel pump with a clear filter on the intake and just used it like a pool vacuum and suctioned the bottom of the tank. Went over the whole bottom of the tank and got it all caught in the fuel filter...just in case. It's always nice to have a cheap little fuel pump around to transfer fuels and stuff.
My 77 power IVR simply pushed in, it was not soldered. I could see someone soldering it to overcome intermittent bad connection issues. I don’t remember ever seeing one with a capacitor or resister on them in my eight years in the 80’s working in a Dodge dealership.
no paul the tank is plastic and the sender is isolated so no matter which way those wires were put on it would still read the same
I believe that is incorrect. Full would read empty and empty would read full if you switched those two terminals. Why? Because full has very little resistance to ground and the float arm IS the ground. So if you fed the sending unit wire on the wrong side, it would have a large amount of resistance to get to ground. You cannot switch these terminals around.
You are correct, I'm sorry, it would not matter on this model. Full will be low ohms regardless of polarity. Smh not sure why that confused me.
Hey Paul, that wood grain on the dash…looks like it came from a Rolls Wraith 😎
Very cool truck, actually.
It's plastic, I've considered reloading l replacing it in my truck!
I have watched you for some time and have to say You are a great Tech Paul - mainly because you consider all possibilities to rule out potential causes of a fault. And this is the way every tech should approach every diagnosis. Whilst I am aware you are open to potential criticism being on You tube , and have to bring your A- game as a result, I can clearly see you actually care about your viewer that he actually learns not just how to test, but also why he is testing. Many other You tube techs leave me bewildered at times because they don't actually explain in detail what they're trying to achieve from specific circuit checks. You go that extra mile and I applaud you for this.
Thank you so much! This really means a lot to me and is spot on with how I approach things and it is nice that you can see that. I get some push back from some people who say I talk to much lol
@@ScannerDanner Say it's not so. Not talking too much if the point gets made and understood. Thanks for the video as I am having issues with my 76 D100. Fill the tank completely full and it may read 3/4 tank. I think I have a bad frame ground, or maybe something like your bad ground on the tank sensor itself. I noticed your inside sensor ground pretty quick as being somewhat corroded and a possible issue.
I am also having issues with my temp gauge reading real low. Wire from temp sensor to gauge is all OK. A temporary ground to temp sensor wire gives a slow sweep to hot. Measure temp sensor and I have 75 ohms to ground and it changes as the engine warms up or cools off. Wondering if I have a bad sensor ground or grounding issue where the temp sensor screws into the manifold. Have to wait for warmer weather as I don't have a heated garage. Thanks again! I am a lot jealous of your very nice power wagon!!! I have had my 76 since 78 and it need restored, but is still a good truck.
@@seniorrider9337 welcome to my channel and I look forward to helping a fellow Tin Grille owner any way that I can!
I will make an attempt to fix some things but an old school sending unit not so much as soon as I did the resistance test and it failed done trash that thing and get a new one love your channel Paul oh your daughter is adorable and she's learning something from old dad I love that truck I had one years ago
On those tank bolts. On my newer stuff I believe there's like a Tee bolt that would have gone through that single middle hole. Those straps may not be factory. He just drilled new holes mostl likely slapped some bolts in it to make it quick and easy.
You should get a min and max ohm reading from pin to pin or sender wire post to ground when moving the float empty to full without any major fluctuations. The rust probably came from that sender and do to sender condition the inside of the fuel lines.
I remember when this channel was teaching scope work and I became a follower. I was totally amazed because the ability to take mechanical action or pressures and turn it into a waveform then interpret them to see where the problems are, is totally awesome. I would described this channel and Paul as being legendary in the field. I see mechanics that won't study but will constantly ask for help and it's annoying. This field needs men to step up their game and study daily because we have to be like minded as that of a doctor to be able to fix cars right. You can lead a horse to water but you can't make them drink. This career field isn't for guys who want to go home and drink and drug because you will always work hard and be under paid. Not to mention the countless screw ups. There's no excuses because this channel will take you right to the top but you have to be willing to study.
Thank you Mike! You've been super kind in your comments to me lately. Starting to recognize who you are 😊
This is why I come to TH-cam. Thank you Danner🙏
Great, very thorough video. I just removed the dash from my '74 Dodge Stepside, and took a ton of pics of the process. The Voltage Reducer that plugs into the dash actually has some type of cylindrical capacitor that plugs into the center slot along with the Voltage Reducer. There is also another round capacitor (identical to the first one) that mounts to another spot on the rear of the dash panel. Im not really sure what they are for......would send you detailed pics if I had your email address.
I installed a beautiful solid cherry bed on my '74, and I tested the sending unit before putting it back in and reinstalling the tank......then installed the cherry bed. After putting 10 gallons of gas in the tank, I am not getting the gas gauge to move past Empty. I did all these tests also, and I have a bad sending unit. I built the cheery bed with two shorter boards above the tank, so removing those should allow much better access to the sending unit. Still a royal pain in the bee-hind.
I believe the gas tank straps should unbolt w/o removing the bed.....maybe the prior owner used different kinds of bolts.
The tank strap mounting certainly makes a good case for Nutserts! Why people don't use them in these kinds of situations, I don't know. Well, yes I do. Lack of planning. I was always taught to plan my work and work my plan and think of the next guy.
ScannerDanner! Love the truck and your videos! Watch out for the alternator/ammeter burning out as it can burn these trucks down to a crisp. A lot of people choose to bypass this gauge or replace it with a voltmeter! Hate to see a beautiful truck have a “thermal incident”. My 79 Lil Red Express just had a close call D:
Ammeter is bypassed! Soon as I started reading about that with these.
Interesting test for people not mechanically incline.Keep up the good work.
14:28 in regards to the question on fuel strap mounting. Bolts and nuts with captive washers was factory. Bolts were installed from above the frame rail with nuts removable from below. If it let me add a photo I would. 😊
send it to me on FB if you or there, or instagram
Thanks for the video. I have 3 trucks with gauge issues. This will help tremendously. Awesome Power Wagon. Hope you do more videos on it 👍
That is a guarantee my friend 🙂 thank you!
Such a beautiful truck !!
glad its in good hands !!
have a great weekend Mr. Paul 💪😎
Thank you!
ISTR at least in the UK the old tech IVR were like the old style gauges (around pre 1975) and had a bi-metal strip inside later the IVR looked the same metal package outside but the internals were a solid state voltage regulator.
So 75 and up went to solid state? That would explain what we saw in the scope reading
As usual coming from you Paul. Brilliant and extraordinary explanation on circuit design. I thought you did an excellent description in an easy way to understand. Keep it up my friend.
Thank you! It's been awhile since I've worked on these
@@ScannerDanner It's like riding a bicycle. It will come back to you eventually. Thank you for what you do and God bless you and the whole SD community. Love ya bro.
1978 Dodge Power Wagon W150 with a fuel gauge that reads empty all the time. The tests shown in this video can be applied to all Chrylser/Dodge/Plymouth instrument clusters (printed circuit boards) that contain an IVR (instrument voltage regulator) and are using thermostatic gauges. This also includes the engine coolant temperature and oil pressure gauges.
Thanks for educating us SD😍
Just a shade tree tip for ya. But I've changed several fuel pumps in trucks by leaving a couple of bolts threaded in on one side of the bed, then jacking the other side up and propping it up like a hood almost, but sideways. I often have found that to be the path of least resistance.
So what is that scope? I looked through your tools links and I can't find it.
Great topic and details! I had to sort it all out on a '79 D-150 project. After replacing the fuel sending unit to repair the gauge, the truck sat outside for a couple years. After getting started on other repairs and running the engine for a while, I had your scenario. My previously rebuilt carb started flooding and the gauge quit working. The sending unit was rusty when pulled and the carb was corroded from water too. Head scratching! Turns out the flush mounted fuel cap that looked just fine leaked rain during downpours. Another sending unit and a new fuel cap and carb were the fix.
Always enjoy your content!
@@calholli it's called a uScope and you'll find it here www.aeswave.com/scannerdanner-c512/
The master kit is around $400 and comes with an amp clamp and secondary ignition adapters including a COP probe, and then also test leads.
Well I seen that IVR before years ago. But next to that is resistor 60ohm
while you have the bed off, flap disk the paint or coating, put aluminum foil over the bolts and weld the nuts for the tank strap bolts. if you have an electric clicky clacker fuel pump laying around throw a tube on it and hit it with 12v to suck those metal flakes out of your tank. just did a pump on my chevy and there was all kinds of crap because the assy rusted out that locks the pump in... was a pain. thanks for posting, been watching you for years Danner. never forget those moog u joints....what a pain in the rear. think it was on your jeep. had issues with the moogs i did on my pathfinder too. did em again more recent and went with a different brand, whole job was like 10mins. was like butter.
I did suck the crap out of the tank, but used gravity and my mouth to get it started 😆
Not good, let me tell you
@@ScannerDanner haha, ya that is always the suck 🤣 c what I did there. May have been a bit of a stretch
@@AGuysGarage 🤣🤣
SUBSTANTIAL Sir ScannerDanner
Thank you for sharing what you know with us tutorial great 👍 👌 take care
Sir ScannerDanner
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
You really made it simple thank you a gain
Usually what happens, for anyone with a bad gauge that HASN’T pulled the sending unit, is the float corrodes or gets a hole In it and fills with gas . So you can still go test and get some resistance that’s in the correct range but that won’t tell you anything
The key to that condition would be making sure you do the voltage tests that I showed and then also the bypass test to make sure the gauge will sweep fully. But absolutely spot on with your comment
@@ScannerDanner I admit I hadn't gotten all the way through before I made that comment
@@Terminxman no problem 😉
I have 1.2W 3W 5W 21W and 55W bulb based probes. Really help to test any stuff without burnin it, you just need to know what kind of currents flow through the circuit you test. Also have 2 LED probes of different resistance and one 5k pot :)
You are the greatest teacher by far. Something I was waiting for you to explain... why is the signal pulsed? I assume it's there for other circuits that the IVR is supplying and the fuel gauge doesn't need or care about it..
I can tell you this much for sure. Thermostatic or bimetallic gauges will get cooked with 12v. We are making heat to warp metal in the gauge. So the IVR steps the voltage down. Now, why it is pulsed, only with a load? I'd have to take one apart to see what is in there. I thought these things were pulsed all the time and they are not!
I do also know that a newer 5v reg with a steady voltage all the time will work great on this system too.
So maybe the answer is that it is a mechanical 5v reg and heat/current flow is the controlling mechanism inside of it?? Best I got
@@ScannerDanner Thank you!
Don't forget, on some of these old cars that use the old style ignition coils that with the key on your coil can be powered up all the time. Leaving the key on for a long period of time can burn up the coil. Having learned auto mechanics on old cars like this in my youth, I still to this day, always think about this when leaving the key on on newer cars, even though it's not an issue on modern vehicles.
I believe that is on a point type system only. If the points are closed and you turn the key on, then you'll have constant current flow through the coil. I do not believe any of the electronic ignition designs that was as issue, but I could be wrong
@@ScannerDanner Yes, I believe that is true. It happens when the points are closed. Just something to be aware of when working on old cars.
The ivr is controlling power pulse power to the fuel gauge the oil gauge and the heat gauge using an analog meter would have been interesting for those that don't understand that.
the lines on the floats is because it sat the gas evaporated the floats dropped into the ethanol schmuck and corroded the brass. thus the line is level when not inverted
Also because the float was not adjusted properly 😉
I have a wire harness that is all dark green with printed on white letters that will wipe off if rubbed much at all.
International; 1210 3/4 ton
thank you very informative. one day when i get the time im going to tap into the premium channel. i just feel like going at it with no time does not utilize that channel properly. i have learned alot from you already tho. thanks again you are very easy to learn from.
Thank you! Look forward to seeing you there. The premium memberships help me create content here as well 😉 and is why I do not ask for channel donations. I figure, why not truly give you guys something in return 😊
That's a 60 Ohm 5% resistor on the side of the IVR.
Nice clean truck!!
Great video as usual Paul, even with our high expectations of your channel by now. Do you have the 5 volt adapter for your power probe? Protects modules and gauge clusters. PPT5VA ;)
Edit: Glad I didn't type in the incandescent test light tip, might have let you know I commented before the video was over. haha
I do not! Didn't even know that existed. It is an add on for the pp4?
Yeah, and it works! ;)
Uggggh!
Coulda, shouda, woulda had you have known the tank was full of crap (Sending unit debris) before you set the bed.
My Bronco used to get pin holes in the brass float every couple of years change it as well.
When I see a tank fastener A$$ Backwards like that I put a strap on the bolt side and tack weld it to the bolt to keep it from spinning you just need to use a single strap to hold both bolts from spinning (builder should have known this)
Nice ride though
WOW! That rheostat connection on the sending unit is pretty rusty. That tank has had some moisture intrusion at some time in it's life, probably while it sit for however many years.
welcome to steel fuel tanks and of course ethanol in fuels, it loves water!
I'm guessing the capacitor builds it's energy with current flow and then dumps it off similar to an intermittent wiper function. This probably is necessary to prevent overheating of the gauge.
that's a wire wound resistor (60 ohm 5% tolerance) it's label is viewable in the video at 48:39
being a many year electronics nerd, it's also rated at 8watts and that's a vintage one, likely original to the truck or that IVR module. the current listing for them is "HLW06.." vs "HLW-6.."
Hey being you think it is rust getting from the gas tank, why don't you do yourself a favor and install a filter before the fuel pump. I saw what may have been a filter at the tank return not sure. But what I learned from working on Toyota back before EFI, they used an inline fuel filter which was not clear but you could see the crap in the bottom side of the filter. With that knowledge I installed them on my Buick and Ford's before the fuel pump using a clear see thru. This was overkill but never had to change the filters at carb's again and you will know in time too. Purolator had a nice one which I used in both vehicles. And your son's are right long winded but we have the 1.5 speed, all good.
1.5 for the win! When I do final reviews I watch in 1.75 lol
FYI, storing Liquid Tape bottles upside down will keep it from drying out better
Thanks a lot Paul for share
If you're gonna pull the bed, install nutserts at the bolt locations.
I would like to have a pickup like yours
Tank discoloration may be due to ethanol or gas that started to go bad for sitting too long
When the ivr was starting to fail all three gauges would read either high or low at times.
Learned something new again thank you
Thankyou excellent video
The IVR is very interesting to me! If you watch at 49:50, the fuel gauge goes up in tiny increments, not all at once. I'm assuming this is caused by the IVR pulsing. I wonder if that's a mechanism to slow down the fuel gauge from bouncing to the fuel sloshing in the tank?
I was also hoping for use of a clamp on ammeter to the scope. To see how high the current is during a full-grounded sending unit, and how the current interacts with the pulsing.
Awesome video!!
Wish I would have done that too. Thank you!
Yes, that's a mechanism to prevent the gauge from moving all over the place. Imagine trying to see how much fuel is left on a road trip... SHE WON'T STAND STILL! Lol!
My guess is because it works on a bi-metal at the gauge it doesn't heat up or cool off too fast. Good thing for a stable gauge.
Of course, you went SD on it. You wouldn't be you if you didn't! I wouldn't expect any less. IMO I like your approach to your teaching. We know that tank probably will only see i/4 full given the gas prices these days, I have a diesel, OMG GRRR. I want a kiss LMAO from the gov and states. Great work as always guys.
Thanks Richard!
The metal comes from the fuel pump nozzle. When you fill up your tank, it's aluminum. It took me a while to figure that one out.
Nice! Thank you
No problem my friend...
I was using a 5gal can to fill a generator from a single station over a few months, never fully emptying can. Generator started getting harder to start. Long story short In that full 5gal can I extracted about 1 gal of water. Drained float bowl, good gas again and it ran great. I think we get a lot of....stuff...from the station tanks
Great job 👍 dear instructor......
sure is nice no fuel pump module no scope needed simple easy wish it was still that way
The ivr pulses continuously when checked with an analog voltmeter on any one of those three gauges.
Watch to the end. This model, it doesn't pulse with the sending unit unplugged. I put a scope on it
i'm betting the factory bolts in the frame for your tank were flag bolts.
Hi Paul, Curiosity killed the cat, Let em laugh if you don't try you'll will never know. It's your dime anyway right?
Tough looking MoPar brother .
I WANT A POWER WAGON NOW😎
Have you looked at what one in that condition goes for in 2022?🤣😂
Good video and nice multimeter, Can You write me type/model of that multimeter? Best regards👍
The power prove 4 was used and so was an old craftsman dmm not sure the number on that one my friend
Great video Danner, just one question about the ground test you did in min. 7:30, shoudn't the green LED on the power probe be on (especially now that we know that the ground wasn't loaded)? 🤔
By the way, I loved "the Danner boys" (Beagle Boys) footage with the music and all, thanks for allways keeping footages like those, it makes your videos more fun to watch and more family oriented. 😉👍
Also, the pulsing signals got me thinking that maybe it's to protect the thermostatic gauge from burning up with a constant load?
For future reference to the comunity that just wants a simple test, unplug the signal wire and the ground wire from the tank and short them together (not for long), if the gauge responds then your problem is in the thank, if the gauge doesn't respond then your problem may be in the gauge (further testing will be needed).
It should have, not sure why it didn't? (Turn green) I never touched that ground wire and you saw the loaded circuit test in the end. But I've never trusted the led indicators on the PP either
Paul, would it be possible to completely drain all the fuel and wipe down the insides of the tank? With good quality towel, lint free of course. Maybe spray down with break clean and give it good wipe down. I did that on 07 dodge ram 1500 and it had bad fuel pump when give it a tap at the bottom. The job was successful and gave it good fuel all the way to the injectors. Customer was super happy with the job i did
I'd have to drop the tank, probably spray it out with a garden hose, then let it dry before installing it again. Do way to clean it with it in there. The hole isn't big enough to get your hand in there
@@ScannerDanner good point. Just an idea anyway. Do what you do best!! Love the family!! They are awesome 👌
It is a resistor on the side of the IVR, 60 Ohm 5%... Depending on the IBVR design it could be used to time the pulses or circuit current limiting (???).. Possibly the purpose... Can't find a circuit design for an IVR...... (I am an electronics tech... Went to that after deciding not to pursue automotive tech) 👍
If I did things over again, I would want to do what you do 😉
@@ScannerDanner After a decade of electronics, I switched to IT. good money. No dirt and not hard on the back. But still, do electronics here and there. But the electrical diagnosis was always and is my favorite on cars...A teacher in high school gave me all the electrical work... and troubleshooting... Cheers!
👍 like the truck!
at 17:42 dry rotted fuel hose. replace it all right away or you'll be having issues very soon.
looks like they used cheap junk hose and it's bad already, ethanol seems to eat the stuff for breakfast lunch and dinner.
thank you for this video.
What happened to the Ford Explorer from 2 weeks ago? Left us hanging (lol).
I gave you as much as I could with that video, my hands are tied as there is another garage involved, that it went back to, to get the warranty ECM. I also mentioned that it was 5 months ago that I filmed this and that garage still has it!! So yes we're still waiting, I didn't leave you hanging intentionally. You'll just have to trust me based on what we found and all the comments, (read them!) that this was indeed another faulty ECM. If I get a chance I'll certainly give you an update
Yeah buddy!
Loves me some on a Saturday morning
Drinking my coffee
hope you enjoy it, thank you! Got all 4 of my kids in this one too :-)
Even better than Saturday morning cartoons. Remember those?
@@InsideOfMyOwnMind loved Saturday morning cartoons!!
What do you think about Castrol Oil 10w60 fully synthetic ?
I put it in the Audi SQ5 2019
Engine Torque: 500 nm
compression ratio : 11.2:1
horsepower: 355
no thats not factory, the original owner was a hack in ways, fuel tank, my bros 74 ramcharger( he had a factory 440 in it) . IDK if you have a polyethylene tank or not he does. studs would be spot welded from back side, or nuts spot welded from back side of frame rail. which ever the case factory would not spend the time or money to put through bolts, but honestly drop the tank. We did, hose it out good, let air dry. esp if its a steel tank. would por 15 help? coat inside of tank? who knows. I assume you have new gasket for float as well. Yes 1 guy can drop tank , i used a hein warner floor jack(1960s) with 2x12 on it and slolwy let tank down.i grew up in NY so i understand the rust thing.
I really learned alot here, like always though🙏✌
so much easier to just substitute a proper resistance source at the sender. decade box, trim pot or just a plain old carbon resister. if it works its the sender bad. if not move to the sender wire in the dash after load testing the ground wire (if equipped) if it works now its the wiring to the sender if not test light the guage supply with a test light it should blink.
So many different ways to test this circuit for sure. A lot of the guys in my power wagon groups have zero idea of how to test these circuits and I certainly hope I didn't make it worse for them
Beautiful 🤙🏾
What brand are the piercing probes? I couldn’t tell and want to make sure I get the right ones that will do the job
I have this tool listed on my AESwave affiliate tool page here www.aeswave.com/ScannerDanner-c512/
you could load ground with a headlamp to really check ground which you know
For sure, lots of different ways to confirm that ground. The voltage drop test is has has always been my go to
I DID NOT realize they were using pulsed signals back then. What were they using to do that? Is it part of the very 'early' computerized systems. I never dealt much with Mopars, just GM mainly.
its similar to a circuit breaker in as it has a bimetallic strip inside that heats and cools at a fixed rate making contact and loosing contact. i was told it was more of an amperage limiter than a voltage limiter but it should pulse a test light. everybody used them in one form or another. it also helps keep the guage needles from bouncing everytime you hit a bump
@@richardcranium5839 I worked on several of the 60's and 70's cars/trucks back in the day but do not recall anything like this. Guess it came later. Stopped working on cars (after very early 80's) as needed to have a regular job to pay the bills.
This was a dodge thing. GM used magnetic gauges and no IVR . I dont believe Ford used them either
Since the sending unit is just pulling a voltage to ground and the resistance of the float is what varies the voltage, there shouldn't be a backwards for the sending unit wiring, should there?
Because the voltage is + source ---- gauge ------ sending unit ------ - ground. Since the gauge operates on resistance varying how much the bimetallic strip heat up, it shouldn't matter which way the electricity is flowing, but just how much as controlled by the sending unit's resistance, right?
It would read opposite wouldn't it? Full would be empty and empty would be full 🤔
@@ScannerDanner I don't think so, because the gauge measures resistance, and resistance doesn't care what direction the electricity is flowing, right?
I have a bi-metallic gauge next to me, and put 3v to it, and the gauge went up both times when I applied voltage one way then the other. I think there are some gauges that do care, but I don't think bi-metallic ones care.
@@ScannerDanner I just did a test with a gauge I had kicking around, it seems it doesn't care, unless I'm missing something: th-cam.com/video/6xLdQ1UD5YM/w-d-xo.html
@@Nabeelco yep, you're right lol, confusing to me for a bit
@@ScannerDanner All correct, but keep in mind ... if you swap the wires on the sending unit, the fuel gauge will work properly, however you've now applied 12v to the metal casing and tubing inside the sending unit. The terminal that's bonded/connected to the metal casing should really be marked as ground so you don't hook it up backwards.
What is the troubleshooting process you go through? I have a D100 and the fuel gauge just stopped working, stuck on E even after filling up.
I figured the floater might be broke, but now idk
Disconnect the sending unit wire and momentarily ground it with the key on. Gauge should go to full. DO NOT leave this grounded for long. Get someone to help you watch the gauge
Who makes those piercing probes? Cannot find ones that resemble yours.
I have then listed on my AESwave tool page here www.aeswave.com/scannerdanner
the addition was to stop lights in dash pulsing i think
The addition of what? Sorry
@@ScannerDanner what they added on the voltage limiter in the dash i have never seen one on the older dodges have had several
@@DependableAutoTruck got it! But the lights don't go through the IVR, only the gauges themselves
you are correct had forgotten the lights don't not sure what it would be for i looked at my old dodge and it doesn't have it on there
Not all manufacturers use the fuel level in that ohm range
Correct, talking to my Tin Grille buddies there
( these fuel meters, are faulty, float, larger or stem longer, i own 4 vehicles and 3 don't work ( float meters , must be recalled!)
Shit Chinese parts. There won't be any recalls. Mine works but it's definitely inaccurate. But at least I know when to get fuel
So what is that scope? I looked through your tools links and I can't find it.
It is called a uScope and it should be in there in my AESwave links
Had a thought SD what if 5 volt wire got shorted to ground , wouldn’t it
smoke the gage or is this circuit protected in sone way ?
I believe that it would smoke it
just a ??.could it be pulsed to keep the inside tank sending unit thing from over heating and burning out and blowing up?? no mean...
The pulsing or voltage regulation is the keep from overheating the gauges (bimetallic strip that controls these)