I've been shooting for over 20 years. This is great information for a beginner, and a great refresher for everyone else. Loving this series! Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Not everyone has an archery shop or club or knowledgeable people around to ask this sort of information from.
Yeah, I have several seasons under my belt at this point, but these are going in a play list for friends or other folks I meet who want to get into archery
Self-taught here also... I remember in 77, I got a #45 Bear Grizzly with 6/ 2117 Game Getters with plastic vaines. I thought they were sooo awsome,but I always wondered why they always had a little waiver in the arrow flight. I was only 13, and I didn't know anyone who shot archery to learn from. Looking back..I'm sure I had wrong arrow spine+plastic vaines don't lay down coming off a shelf. 48th bowseason coming up this fall.. Now I shoot my Sky Trophey Longbow #55 I've had for 32 years..bought used for 125.00. Or one of my selfbows I've made.
Robert, you're a wealth of knowledge. Changed my 60 pounder to 47 at 28 and my draw length turned out to be almost 29. I've changed to an old bear polar longbow which is both pretty heavily reflexes with a tad bit of recurve. I've paired it with a properly spined wood arrow with a 75 grain woody and 175 grain broadhead. They're flying just fine, especially out to 15 yards. Been tied up the first of the season but I'm staying with it through the rest and I'm loving archery again. Thanks.
Like alot of the comments,I'm a seasoned archer.You said this video is more directed towards beginning archers,you older guys this is old news.We never stop learning,I have ready a wheel barrow load of books and seen alot of videos on arrow setup.Its good to hear it again and go back over what you already knew.Thanks for great videos,great attitude and your unwavering love of Christ.Happy hunting.🎯
GREAT VIDEO! I wish I had all of this information when I started shooting a longbow more than 40 years ago! This is an awesome series. Thank you for taking the time to share this valuable information!
Great video. Here is another point of view. I like aluminum. They are easy to spine, less expensive, straight, easy to build and cut with a plumber's tube cutter, good weight per spine. They will bend, but not as bad as some say. All in all, a little easier for beginners to mess with. Great job with your videos.
Great job Robert! For anyone that is new to archery and bowhunting, you can trust what this man says. Robert has taken hundreds of animals with a bow. He knows what he is talking about.
I bump that send button too quick. As I was trying to say that was a very good explanation on tuning carbon arrows, Robert. And an even better explanation of the Gospel. Keeping Jesus first should be the focal point of our lives.
Been shooting a bow for 50 years so I take all I’ve learned over the years for granted I guess. It’s a lot of stuff to figure out that can overwhelm a beginner. You really make it easy for someone starting out. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. God bless!
I'd add that with arrow weight, you should shoot as heavy an arrow as the cover in your area will permit you to shoot at the distances you expect to take game. You can't shoot an 800 grain arrow if you'll have to aim so high that there's no shooting lane available, out in the coastal mountains in Oregon and Washington you probably aren't going to have wide open shooting lanes, so you'll want a bit lighter arrow so you get a flatter trajectory. When I was taking 15 yard shots at my buddies place over a feeder in Florida at big pigs? Go as heavy as you reasonably can, they'll be much more forgiving about shot placement if the animal moves or you aren’t exactly perfect with your shot
This is an extremely helpful video. You presented the info and procedures in such a way that beginners can readily understand. It gives hope and motivation for a beginner like me. And to end the video talking about God, about the Gospel, about our savior Jesus Christ is wonderful.
I love this series 😊I've just picked up a Trad bow again and I'm waiting on my Black widow to come So this is what I'm looking for in a video...Thank you so much for information..I just order half a dozen Big Jim's Dark timbers in 400 spine...Gonna run 300 grains up front 👍🏹
Lotsa good advice here!! I've had same positive experience with shafts from Tulip Poplar . . . commonly referred to as poplar. Imo, as tough as doug fir.. Approx same weight as Doug Fir. Poplar boards avail at big box home improve stores. They sell boards in 1/2" and 3/4" thickness. I buy the 1/2". Tulip Poplar tends to grow straight. So it's easy to find boards with straight grain. Agree with carbon recommend for beginners. Simply a lot less to learn and do in the beginning. Getting that drawing arm to come back correctly is crucial! It's ironic that most kids seem to do it correctly and then we lose that natural/correct drawing movement as we grow older. Deciding on "anchor" is such a personal preference thingy! Experimenting with this is good idea. Off topic, but, don't buy/make first bow with draw weight that's too great to be comfortable. Being "over bowed" is a prime reason that we get into bad shooting form. LOTSA good practical advise you've given re arrow weight and feather length for the beginning bow hunter! While I am proponent of bareshaft tuning, absolutely agree that it's technique to be used by archers who have well-developed form. Technique will drive ya crazy if you're still developing consistent form! Lotsa good advice about importance of FORM! Re "knock left" being a weak-spined arrow and knock right" being too stiff arrow, THAT IS FOR PERSON WHO holds bow with left hand. Meaning for person who holds bow with left hand is just the opposite. Shortening shaft "little at a time" means 1/4" and no more that 1/2". It's easy to cut off more . . . difficult to add back on after cutting off too much.
Everybody gonna be standing at judgement with their heads down, Robert. Folks are just that way. Nobody I know doesn't have something they've done or thought that should make them bow their head. But I figure the best epitaph a fellow could have and the one I'd like to have is "he tried to give more than he took.:
My Brother and I will use a yardstick for measuring arrow draw, I have taped on arrow and we tell other our draw on 3 different draws, Why I have a 21--22 inch at corner on mouth using part of cheek anchor using more straight arm micro bent elbow and where I have a 24.5--25 inch on modern anchor of upper finger split draw on a piece of cartilage right before earhole depending on if arm is mini bent or arm is straight arm micro bent. micro bent at elbow is for more use on all shoot off shelf hunting recurves as hey use less elbow bend and mini bent at is for all longbows as they need more elbow bend for shock absorption.
Amazon has some hand held weight made for luggage or hunting fishing for up to 120 pounds and buy the 120 pound models not cheaper 110 pound models and can be used for knowing poundage at your draw useful because some bow models will have and odd draw curve where some will increase in poundage sooner and others not until near a 28 inch draw, just bring hook ring/string back to anchor or you will be off by a pound or 2 becuse of being an inch off of draw. Now handheld weights are nicer then a K'Netix Newton or similar model as the more traditional require a mount and a yard stick as well as knowing your draw which can change if trying a new anchor point or are experimenting with elbow being a tick bent/non bent as much.
10 grains per pounds a good weight ..but not so much for a old long bow like yours but a snappy recurve 10 grain is a good number but for your bow im with you...thanks for the video i hope people under stand your talking old long bow and not there recurve....thats why 10 grain per pound is a good rule of thumb....for recurve...not long bow... thankls again
@@robertcarte95 First year traditional hunting been practicing a lot and I’m comfortable going out. My set up is a bear Kodiak Hunter pulling 49lbs at my draw. What would be your recommendation on arrow weight I’m thinking I want to be as close to the 550 mark as I can get with a Simmons broadhead.
RC! I cut my own nocks in my wood arrows an re-enforce them with artificial sinew, will this interfere with bare shaft tuning. I lean toward cutting my own nocks over the plastic nocks but sometimes have difficulty bare shaft tuning. Any thoughts on this out their. Enjoyed the video and always the word of God.
@@robertcarte95 it is. I always lifted but my dad says get out there and split wood and cut fence rows!!!! That’s definitely good for the soul and will keep you in shape.
For arrows do no use fiberglass as most are very heavy made for kids bows/made for light under 40 pound adult bow for shooting 25 feet and under or Chinese Hollow core fiberglass as I have seen in reviews poor breaks with even bloody some arrow in hand. Aluminum arrows are fine even from higher end China makers/seller if you know spine and know brand/seller is not selling a crappy all pure aluminum arrow even in proper spine as arrow will be heavy or if in right weight too light. In aluminum, good brands will say 7075 or 7075--T/7076 in review with real reviews confirming and avoid all using 6061 or other aluminum numbers as is a ridged Aluminum alloy and will not flex even if some reviews say arrow is fine. Avoid most carbon fiber arrows from China as a bunch will be mixed carbon where arrow is using a carbon fiber made from Nylon or is a low grade arrow where even if quality control is good material is not durable eventually breaking, if you do find arrows like this avoid brand/seller, only using brands where they make more then a 500 spine arrow for single model you are buying.
River cane makes a fine arrow! I have made and killed deer with them but I'm not sure it's the direction to point a beginner in. Takes me a while to build one but they are beautiful. Even more so with a stone point on the end.
@@robertcarte95 someone just starting out can buy wood arrows. Which will lead to the maintenance aspect. This will hopefully lead to the entire building process of arrows.
I've been shooting for over 20 years. This is great information for a beginner, and a great refresher for everyone else. Loving this series! Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Not everyone has an archery shop or club or knowledgeable people around to ask this sort of information from.
Yeah, I have several seasons under my belt at this point, but these are going in a play list for friends or other folks I meet who want to get into archery
Self-taught here also...
I remember in 77, I got a #45 Bear Grizzly with 6/ 2117 Game Getters with plastic vaines.
I thought they were sooo awsome,but I always wondered why they always had a little waiver in the arrow flight. I was only 13, and I didn't know anyone who shot archery to learn from.
Looking back..I'm sure I had wrong arrow spine+plastic vaines don't lay down coming off a shelf. 48th bowseason coming up this fall..
Now I shoot my Sky Trophey Longbow #55 I've had for 32 years..bought used for 125.00. Or one of my selfbows I've made.
Robert, you're a wealth of knowledge. Changed my 60 pounder to 47 at 28 and my draw length turned out to be almost 29. I've changed to an old bear polar longbow which is both pretty heavily reflexes with a tad bit of recurve. I've paired it with a properly spined wood arrow with a 75 grain woody and 175 grain broadhead. They're flying just fine, especially out to 15 yards. Been tied up the first of the season but I'm staying with it through the rest and I'm loving archery again. Thanks.
Like alot of the comments,I'm a seasoned archer.You said this video is more directed towards beginning archers,you older guys this is old news.We never stop learning,I have ready a wheel barrow load of books and seen alot of videos on arrow setup.Its good to hear it again and go back over what you already knew.Thanks for great videos,great attitude and your unwavering love of Christ.Happy hunting.🎯
GREAT VIDEO! I wish I had all of this information when I started shooting a longbow more than 40 years ago! This is an awesome series. Thank you for taking the time to share this valuable information!
Great video. Here is another point of view. I like aluminum. They are easy to spine, less expensive, straight, easy to build and cut with a plumber's tube cutter, good weight per spine. They will bend, but not as bad as some say. All in all, a little easier for beginners to mess with. Great job with your videos.
Bowhunted for 56 years and can suggest that a heavier arrow is much more forgiving and makes the bow much quieter.
Outstanding video Mr Carter
Great job Robert! For anyone that is new to archery and bowhunting, you can trust what this man says. Robert has taken hundreds of animals with a bow. He knows what he is talking about.
There is this nostalgia incorporated in wooden arrows, that's hard to beat
We really enjoy the Work you're doing, thank you
I bump that send button too quick. As I was trying to say that was a very good explanation on tuning carbon arrows, Robert.
And an even better explanation of the Gospel. Keeping Jesus first should be the focal point of our lives.
Amen on the heavy arrow!!!
You're doing great work, my friend
Thanks so much you’re teaching an old dog new tricks,keep it up.JIK
Good information brother, thanks for sharing as always.
Been shooting a bow for 50 years so I take all I’ve learned over the years for granted I guess. It’s a lot of stuff to figure out that can overwhelm a beginner. You really make it easy for someone starting out. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. God bless!
I'd add that with arrow weight, you should shoot as heavy an arrow as the cover in your area will permit you to shoot at the distances you expect to take game. You can't shoot an 800 grain arrow if you'll have to aim so high that there's no shooting lane available, out in the coastal mountains in Oregon and Washington you probably aren't going to have wide open shooting lanes, so you'll want a bit lighter arrow so you get a flatter trajectory. When I was taking 15 yard shots at my buddies place over a feeder in Florida at big pigs? Go as heavy as you reasonably can, they'll be much more forgiving about shot placement if the animal moves or you aren’t exactly perfect with your shot
This is an extremely helpful video. You presented the info and procedures in such a way that beginners can readily understand. It gives hope and motivation for a beginner like me. And to end the video talking about God, about the Gospel, about our savior Jesus Christ is wonderful.
Good stuff man!!
LOVE this series!
Very good explanation
Keep making videos there really great and informative keep daisy in them too
Thanks RC, and amen to what you said about our creator.
Great video!! I wish you were around when I was starting out 30y ago!!! Thanks again
I love this series 😊I've just picked up a Trad bow again and I'm waiting on my Black widow to come So this is what I'm looking for in a video...Thank you so much for information..I just order half a dozen Big Jim's Dark timbers in 400 spine...Gonna run 300 grains up front 👍🏹
Great video!
Thanks Robert !
All I want is something to keep the yellow flys away.Thanks for the video.
Good job explaining.
Alot of good info Brother Robert , God Bless
Thank you for your time and knowledge. God bless you and your family.
Lotsa good advice here!! I've had same positive experience with shafts from Tulip Poplar . . . commonly referred to as poplar. Imo, as tough as doug fir.. Approx same weight as Doug Fir. Poplar boards avail at big box home improve stores. They sell boards in 1/2" and 3/4" thickness. I buy the 1/2". Tulip Poplar tends to grow straight. So it's easy to find boards with straight grain. Agree with carbon recommend for beginners. Simply a lot less to learn and do in the beginning. Getting that drawing arm to come back correctly is crucial! It's ironic that most kids seem to do it correctly and then we lose that natural/correct drawing movement as we grow older. Deciding on "anchor" is such a personal preference thingy! Experimenting with this is good idea. Off topic, but, don't buy/make first bow with draw weight that's too great to be comfortable. Being "over bowed" is a prime reason that we get into bad shooting form. LOTSA good practical advise you've given re arrow weight and feather length for the beginning bow hunter! While I am proponent of bareshaft tuning, absolutely agree that it's technique to be used by archers who have well-developed form. Technique will drive ya crazy if you're still developing consistent form! Lotsa good advice about importance of FORM! Re "knock left" being a weak-spined arrow and knock right" being too stiff arrow, THAT IS FOR PERSON WHO holds bow with left hand. Meaning for person who holds bow with left hand is just the opposite. Shortening shaft "little at a time" means 1/4" and no more that 1/2". It's easy to cut off more . . . difficult to add back on after cutting off too much.
Everybody gonna be standing at judgement with their heads down, Robert. Folks are just that way. Nobody I know doesn't have something they've done or thought that should make them bow their head. But I figure the best epitaph a fellow could have and the one I'd like to have is "he tried to give more than he took.:
@@larryreese6146 we are all unworthy of the blood of Christ.
@@robertcarte95 bless you and yours, Robert.
This is good information no matter how long you’ve been shooting, you have to a good foundation!
🙏 amen
My Brother and I will use a yardstick for measuring arrow draw, I have taped on arrow and we tell other our draw on 3 different draws, Why I have a 21--22 inch at corner on mouth using part of cheek anchor using more straight arm micro bent elbow and where I have a 24.5--25 inch on modern anchor of upper finger split draw on a piece of cartilage right before earhole depending on if arm is mini bent or arm is straight arm micro bent. micro bent at elbow is for more use on all shoot off shelf hunting recurves as hey use less elbow bend and mini bent at is for all longbows as they need more elbow bend for shock absorption.
The 10gr per pound formula usually is just for the longevity of the bow.light arrows kill bows lol
Amen.
Amazon has some hand held weight made for luggage or hunting fishing for up to 120 pounds and buy the 120 pound models not cheaper 110 pound models and can be used for knowing poundage at your draw useful because some bow models will have and odd draw curve where some will increase in poundage sooner and others not until near a 28 inch draw, just bring hook ring/string back to anchor or you will be off by a pound or 2 becuse of being an inch off of draw. Now handheld weights are nicer then a K'Netix Newton or similar model as the more traditional require a mount and a yard stick as well as knowing your draw which can change if trying a new anchor point or are experimenting with elbow being a tick bent/non bent as much.
I shoot a saint Patrick lake hill style long bow 43at 28 my draw is 281/2 shooting 585 grain arrow deadly quiet and super penetrating
The 10gpp rule has always seemed absolutely ridiculous to me. Only makes sense in a very narrow poundage range. Otherwise it’s out the window.
10 grains per pounds a good weight ..but not so much for a old long bow like yours but a snappy recurve 10 grain is a good number but for your bow im with you...thanks for the video i hope people under stand your talking old long bow and not there recurve....thats why 10 grain per pound is a good rule of thumb....for recurve...not long bow... thankls again
you do know robert allot of people down south do things a s s backwards..🙂
Do you bare shaft tune?
@@neabowhunters8107 yes I do.
@@robertcarte95
First year traditional hunting been practicing a lot and I’m comfortable going out. My set up is a bear Kodiak Hunter pulling 49lbs at my draw. What would be your recommendation on arrow weight I’m thinking I want to be as close to the 550 mark as I can get with a Simmons broadhead.
@@neabowhunters8107 550 is a good spot!
What pound bow do you shoot
49@26
Hey Robert what grai broadhead do you hunt with?
Usually 135 Zwicky no mercy or 125 woodsman. I use a 100 grain woody weight on my Douglas fir arrows.
Ok great information thanks
What poundage wood arrow are you shooting?
55/60
Thanks for all the information
RC! I cut my own nocks in my wood arrows an re-enforce them with artificial sinew, will this interfere with bare shaft tuning. I lean toward cutting my own nocks over the plastic nocks but sometimes have difficulty bare shaft tuning. Any thoughts on this out their. Enjoyed the video and always the word of God.
Mr. Robert, do you lift weights or did you use to?
I did years ago along with karate. Mostly physical work. Good for the soul!
@@robertcarte95 it is. I always lifted but my dad says get out there and split wood and cut fence rows!!!! That’s definitely good for the soul and will keep you in shape.
For arrows do no use fiberglass as most are very heavy made for kids bows/made for light under 40 pound adult bow for shooting 25 feet and under or Chinese Hollow core fiberglass as I have seen in reviews poor breaks with even bloody some arrow in hand. Aluminum arrows are fine even from higher end China makers/seller if you know spine and know brand/seller is not selling a crappy all pure aluminum arrow even in proper spine as arrow will be heavy or if in right weight too light. In aluminum, good brands will say 7075 or 7075--T/7076 in review with real reviews confirming and avoid all using 6061 or other aluminum numbers as is a ridged Aluminum alloy and will not flex even if some reviews say arrow is fine. Avoid most carbon fiber arrows from China as a bunch will be mixed carbon where arrow is using a carbon fiber made from Nylon or is a low grade arrow where even if quality control is good material is not durable eventually breaking, if you do find arrows like this avoid brand/seller, only using brands where they make more then a 500 spine arrow for single model you are buying.
Those nasty carbon slivers. River cane or bamboo. The huge range of spine do to the massive flexibility of the material is a big advantage.
River cane makes a fine arrow! I have made and killed deer with them but I'm not sure it's the direction to point a beginner in. Takes me a while to build one but they are beautiful. Even more so with a stone point on the end.
@@robertcarte95 someone just starting out can buy wood arrows. Which will lead to the maintenance aspect. This will hopefully lead to the entire building process of arrows.