Thank you! This was very informative. I moved on to a narrowboat and found an Aladdin lamp in a cupboard. There was a brochure and a letter written to the makers complaining that it was too dim. I know nothing about them but I have Tilley pressure lamps. Your advice has given me the inspiration to get the Aladdin working well.
You are welcome. I'm not familiar with the Tilley Pressure lamp but it looks like a Coleman lantern to me. If it acts the same as Coleman, that is a great lamp because you take it outside and it makes a lot of light. The only issue with that style of Light is that it makes a lot of noise indoors and if it uses White Napha as a fuel, that is about $30 a gallon, almost $5 a litre. Now Kerosene bought in Bulk at the pump is about $1.50 Canadian. when an Aladdin is running nicely it should be hard to look at night without a shade. Cheers and good luck
So happy to have found your channel. As for my #23, the flame continues to creep up even on the lowest setting. New wick, K1 kerosene, trimmed and re-charred but still the creeping and a few spikes. This is my second lamp and the other performs just fine with high altitude chimney & light booster. I live @ 7,500 ft.(2,275 meters). Thanks, Steve
I have had mixed success with 23’S. I have one that is phenomenal and a few others that only will work at 60%. You need to find a doner lamp or burner to play with. Cheers
@@Kerosenecanada Thank you. Taking a leap and purchasing a new MB 502! found a MIE #23 you know where but may wait to see how the MB 502 performs here at elevation. Regards,-SW
Thanks for posting this - I have a 70s British model 23 (Aluminum bowl) that runs, but currently suffers from a flame spike in one spot so it's not terrifically bright. Thankfully I spotted the issue and turned it down. I don't have a wick cleaner/shaper, so I've ordered one and then I'll see about getting the wick clean and even - if it keeps going I shall try your other suggestions!
The brass wick trimmers are made to trim by turning clockwise, the plastic ones work in both directions. The manner you show with the wick extended up so high could lead to an uneven trimming because it isn't referenced to the lip of the wick holder. I found it better to burn the wick for a minute or so, pull it back down, put the trimmer over it and raise the wick just enough that it starts to lift the trimmer. Then, while pushing gently down such that it (the trimmer) rests against the outer ring of the wick holder while turning clockwise. You might have to slightly extend the wick as you work out (scape away) any unevenness.
Good info to know! Lost my wick cleaner in the move years ago but I have had very little trouble with the wick. Will probably order one from the German supplier first part of the year.
So im soo glad I found your channel. Not much out there content wise but your video have helped me get my main three lamps going and running well. Was curious about if you come across deformed mantels alot. I found two boxes of Loxon mantels and about 70% of them were deformed in some way that they just won't run correctly.
levi Anderson , I really only use brand new mantles as a rule of thumb Levi. I have old mantles that I run across and I just don’t use them. Sometimes they are oddly shaped and sometime they just fall apart after a few uses. When it comes to wicks and mantles, I find new stock is the best. What is country of origin on those mantles? Thanks Dave
Hi thanks for the info, great video. If I’m purchasing an Aladdin lamp how can I tell the difference between the different models also would it be better to buy new burners and will new burners fit old lamps. Thanks.
www.aladdinlamps.info/ This will help. Sometimes the new ones are not any better than the old ones. The model B is considered by most lamp owners as the most reliable. Cheers
What do you recommend for model 12s for inconsistent Burns even after trimming wicks and repositioning galleries I have two that I burn in the winter time and fall and this is always been an issue input would be much appreciated thank you and great video.
You know, I run into that problem quite regularly. I just swap out parts until it burns nicely. Even if you identify miss matched parts or tolerances you really need spare parts. I think it’s a gallery issue as a guess as what I find is a common problem. If you got a local lamp guy around you, you might want to pay him a visit. Thanks
I have a B&H center draft oil lamp. The parts are frozen and I have no idea how to remedy this. I’ve tried using three in one oil and letting it sit but it’s not helping. Do you have any ideas of what I can do?
I’ve got an old model 23 burner with the wick stuck in it. I’ve used an exact o knife to remove as much as I can. The knob that moves the wick is frozen and I can’t seem to get the flame spreader out. Could I soak it in something to help remove it
I have a C model burner that just won't burn blue. Just get yellow spikes. I have tried trimming it but that doesn't seem to help. The wick is for B C and 21C . the lowest the flame spreader would go was 2 rows of holes higher than the top of the gallery. I trimmed off the bottom and now just one row shows above the gallery. There was a slight improvement with the flame. Do I need to lower the spreader more ? .... thanks for the nice video
Kathleen Winans Hi Kathleen, sorry to hear of your issues. Are you using Kerosene? If so and you have those flame spikes, that means there is an air leak . The outer wick tube is not close enough to the wick. Now without seeing it , that’s just a educated guess. Model C burners were redesigned several times and the parts don’t interchange, maybe the outer wick tube is off another model, it might fit but not work properly. The flame spreader should be pushed all the way down and see three holes rows on a Aladdin model C IND Brass burner.. I just grabbed one from my lamp room at took it apart, it really doesn’t assemble nicely. If you can get it burn evenly and blue, I would look for a model B to replace it. They use the same wicks and mantles. Good luck.
Your lamps are all so nice and clean! I have a model 23 that was left for a number of years unused and the kerosene all evaporated out. The glass font had green residue that I cleaned out, but the burner has a lot of black residue that looks like tar. What would you recommend to clean it up?
arweninnj I use oven cleaner and or paint stripper depending on how bad it is. Some other collectors swear by ammonia, some like lemon ammonia. They will all work. I personally don’t like the smell or ammonia. Have a great day
Great video, Question for ya, I recently pick up a Solar brand lamp that is very similar to the Aladdin model B or 23, Couldn't find any information on it. needs a new wick and mantle, before I buy them do you know if the Aladdin ones fit this brand? I am new to this!! Thanks!
Paraffin fuel supposedly burns cleaner with less soot and fumes, but some say that wax will eventually clog the wick in an Aladdin lamp. Which fuel is best?
When I burn my B burner with the B gallery assembly, the flame & incandescence is flickering/quivering regardless of the wick setting. When I put the 23 gallery assembly on this B burner, it's smooth. It also SEEMS the flame is higher and more jagged with the B gallery at a comparable incandescence level to the 23 gallery. What causes this? (The B gallery has a new India very wide & globe shaped mantle & at full tilt, the bottom 1/2" is not glowing, if that offers any hints.) Being OCD, these darn things can be frustrating. lol Thanks so much.
I borrowed another B gallery that works fine.. The micrometer showed the inner-most gallery cones are the same size, but the bad one is positioned higher which would cause a leak. I wonder if I can smack it down a bit with a proper diameter tool so it meets with the outer wick tube sooner?
FIXED IT! One of the 3 lips on the top of the basket that secures the gallery was bent down which caused the gallery to distort & rock when secured. Used pliers and bent it back up and now it works fine. The blue flame is still a tad shaky at lower settings, but incandescence flicker is now gone! Also used a NOS mantle instead of the new garbage Indian-made one. Those new mantles are destroyed during the initial burn-off process... disgraceful.
Before my grandma passed away, she gave to me the Aladdin lamp they used to light the farmhouse before they had electricity when she was a little girl. She said she remembered it being so bright that they had it in the middle of the room and the family could sit around it all reading in the own corners of the room. I looked up the design and think it’s a 23. I’ve replaced the wick and the mantle, and I can get it to light just fine. It seems to have a good even flame around the wick. I turn it on low, leave it a bit, and then try to turn it up brighter. But I seem to keep burning up the mantle when I turn it up. Am I just probably trying to turn it up to bright? Or what else might I be doing wrong?
I have a 23 that does this. I think it's not pulling in enough air to cool itself as even the nob to turn it up and down gets hot. I'm currently running a 23 with a high elevation chimney and it stays cool. I'm gonna order another, I can't switch them to verify as one is lox on and on is slip, and see if that helps the issue.
I realize is an older video but - I have a small metal cup like you use to put in your chimney when you blow it out, but I am nervous to use it for fear the very hot chimney may crack when the cold little cup is dropped in place. I just want to clarify, you place this little cup to stop the convection immediately after blowing out? You never had a cracking chimney doing this? Thanks. Great videos. I am slowly piecing a small lamp hobby together and have relied on your vids a lot.
I have a very old Model B which needed a new wick. All of the videos I've seen, the wick carrier comes out the top (it seems all of the videos are for a 23?). On ours, it only comes out of the bottom, I'm guessing this is normal for a model B? Thanks!
@@Kerosenecanada Thank you so much! I'm in the process of cleaning it up, pretty sure I need to polish up the wick tube, it's pretty rough. Thank you again for your help and the great videos!
@@Kerosenecanada One more question if I might....what would you recommend to clean off all of the dried kerosene from the flame spreader, etc.. So far, it laughs at mineral spirits... Thanks!
I just bought some mantles labeled " Aladdin Upright Gaslight Mantles" They look like newer versions and the bases are made of aluminum. Are these safe to use? I've been told that the aluminum bases are prone to melting.
I just wanted to say, I have just one model C that runs well. Its in a caboose lamp, but it was one of the ones that were sent to England for a re-work..
There is no 100% guaranty that 23 is going to be a good one Kevin. A few things to look at is the f origin. England= great. Hong kong, not so much. Make sure there is nothing that cracked and you have a fresh wick. I have some really good 23's and some that are just not great. Cheers
I would have to guess on a lot of things. Burner type, new wick? You might have to adjust the position of the flame spreader. If your flame spreader is pushed in too low, the flame will be at higher point of the mantle. If the flame spreader is too high then it will only light up the bottom of the mantle. This is just a guess at this point. Good luck.
Well the question is where do you live? I might know of a collector friend nearby. The good news is that the 6 flame spreader is still a fairly common part. As far as Souping up. They are a Hot Rod right out the box. Cheers
I use Kerosene here. If you are in UK , I believe you use Paraffin oil.it will last years if stored properly. It really only smells when extinguished. Cheers
Do you know if there's a mod I can do on a new model 11 wick to make it fit the old fashioned style model 11 carrier? I was thinking of compressing the locking lugs with pliers.
@@Kerosenecanada weird I bought it at a place that sells from the pump like gas. It came that color. I’m just going to the box store instead and buying clear kerosene. Thanks for the help, getting ready for the 🥶 winter. Really miss your content😞
I am having a problem with flickering and uneven burns. Sometimes the flickering is even audible. Mine is a 23 with the aladdin lamp on the knob. Any ideas? thanks
ok, I trimmed the wick like you showed with the knife, but used a double edge razor blade. With the wick riser all the way down, the wick was above the inner wick tube. I trimmed it flush and it is working great. Thanks for the video.
@@Kerosenecanada the way you described it in words, yes! it will work, I'm not being disrespectful, it is the way you demonstrated on the video doesn't work, you can't burn away those loose thread if you have kerosene in the la,mp, and definitely not with a lighter and then you start to pull it with your fingers which create more loose thread, I would appreciate if you make a time lapsed video that you actually do it the right way so we all can see how it is done.
Lordphoton99 Linforthewin this method is for trimming only. The idea is that you are cutting off the carbon portion only. Realistically this will only remove the last 1/8 “ or less in carbon. As you said if you start cutting in to fresh wick, you run the risk of pulling threads. If your wick is way out then there is an underlying issue with lamp burner.
I just wanted to say, I have just one model C that runs well. Its in a caboose lamp, but it was one of the ones that were sent to England for a re-work..
Excellent training video for most Aladdin lamp owners. Very helpful! Thanks!
Thank you! This was very informative. I moved on to a narrowboat and found an Aladdin lamp in a cupboard. There was a brochure and a letter written to the makers complaining that it was too dim. I know nothing about them but I have Tilley pressure lamps. Your advice has given me the inspiration to get the Aladdin working well.
You are welcome. I'm not familiar with the Tilley Pressure lamp but it looks like a Coleman lantern to me. If it acts the same as Coleman, that is a great lamp because you take it outside and it makes a lot of light. The only issue with that style of Light is that it makes a lot of noise indoors and if it uses White Napha as a fuel, that is about $30 a gallon, almost $5 a litre. Now Kerosene bought in Bulk at the pump is about $1.50 Canadian.
when an Aladdin is running nicely it should be hard to look at night without a shade.
Cheers and good luck
So happy to have found your channel. As for my #23, the flame continues to creep up even on the lowest setting. New wick, K1 kerosene, trimmed and re-charred but still the creeping and a few spikes. This is my second lamp and the other performs just fine with high altitude chimney & light booster. I live @ 7,500 ft.(2,275 meters). Thanks, Steve
I have had mixed success with 23’S. I have one that is phenomenal and a few others that only will work at 60%.
You need to find a doner lamp or burner to play with.
Cheers
@@Kerosenecanada Thank you. Taking a leap and purchasing a new MB 502! found a MIE #23 you know where but may wait to see how the MB 502 performs here at elevation.
Regards,-SW
Thanks for posting this - I have a 70s British model 23 (Aluminum bowl) that runs, but currently suffers from a flame spike in one spot so it's not terrifically bright. Thankfully I spotted the issue and turned it down.
I don't have a wick cleaner/shaper, so I've ordered one and then I'll see about getting the wick clean and even - if it keeps going I shall try your other suggestions!
Thanks for this, this is exactly what I’m looking for, as I am having trouble with trimming the wick. Subscribed!
The brass wick trimmers are made to trim by turning clockwise, the plastic ones work in both directions. The manner you show with the wick extended up so high could lead to an uneven trimming because it isn't referenced to the lip of the wick holder. I found it better to burn the wick for a minute or so, pull it back down, put the trimmer over it and raise the wick just enough that it starts to lift the trimmer. Then, while pushing gently down such that it (the trimmer) rests against the outer ring of the wick holder while turning clockwise. You might have to slightly extend the wick as you work out (scape away) any unevenness.
Good info to know! Lost my wick cleaner in the move years ago but I have had very little trouble with the wick. Will probably order one from the German supplier first part of the year.
So im soo glad I found your channel. Not much out there content wise but your video have helped me get my main three lamps going and running well. Was curious about if you come across deformed mantels alot. I found two boxes of Loxon mantels and about 70% of them were deformed in some way that they just won't run correctly.
levi Anderson , I really only use brand new mantles as a rule of thumb Levi. I have old mantles that I run across and I just don’t use them. Sometimes they are oddly shaped and sometime they just fall apart after a few uses.
When it comes to wicks and mantles, I find new stock is the best.
What is country of origin on those mantles?
Thanks
Dave
Hi thanks for the info, great video. If I’m purchasing an Aladdin lamp how can I tell the difference between the different models also would it be better to buy new burners and will new burners fit old lamps. Thanks.
www.aladdinlamps.info/
This will help. Sometimes the new ones are not any better than the old ones. The model B is considered by most lamp owners as the most reliable.
Cheers
thank you for your great videos. How could I know which 23's are garbage? Is there some part that would identify the good or bad ones?
No, it's really a crapshoot when it comes to model 23. The English ones are better thank the Hong Kong models it seems. Cheers
What do you recommend for model 12s for inconsistent Burns even after trimming wicks and repositioning galleries I have two that I burn in the winter time and fall and this is always been an issue input would be much appreciated thank you and great video.
You know, I run into that problem quite regularly. I just swap out parts until it burns nicely.
Even if you identify miss matched parts or tolerances you really need spare parts.
I think it’s a gallery issue as a guess as what I find is a common problem.
If you got a local lamp guy around you, you might want to pay him a visit.
Thanks
I have a B&H center draft oil lamp. The parts are frozen and I have no idea how to remedy this. I’ve tried using three in one oil and letting it sit but it’s not helping. Do you have any ideas of what I can do?
Heat. Get it real hot, wear gloves. Hair dryer or hot air gun works well.
Good luck.
Cheers
@@Kerosenecanada I’ll give it a go, thanks!
Thanks for posting this really enjoyed it and learning more thanks regards
I’ve got an old model 23 burner with the wick stuck in it. I’ve used an exact o knife to remove as much as I can. The knob that moves the wick is frozen and I can’t seem to get the flame spreader out. Could I soak it in something to help remove it
Do you have any Rayo’s or B&H center drafts lanterns? If so could you do a similar video or maybe a comparison of the two? Thanks.
I have a C model burner that just won't burn blue. Just get yellow spikes. I have tried trimming it but that doesn't seem to help. The wick is for B C and 21C . the lowest the flame spreader would go was 2 rows of holes higher than the top of the gallery. I trimmed off the bottom and now just one row shows above the gallery. There was a slight improvement with the flame. Do I need to lower the spreader more ? .... thanks for the nice video
Kathleen Winans Hi Kathleen, sorry to hear of your issues. Are you using Kerosene? If so and you have those flame spikes, that means there is an air leak . The outer wick tube is not close enough to the wick. Now without seeing it , that’s just a educated guess. Model C burners were redesigned several times and the parts don’t interchange, maybe the outer wick tube is off another model, it might fit but not work properly. The flame spreader should be pushed all the way down and see three holes rows on a Aladdin model C IND Brass burner.. I just grabbed one from my lamp room at took it apart, it really doesn’t assemble nicely. If you can get it burn evenly and blue, I would look for a model B to replace it. They use the same wicks and mantles. Good luck.
Your lamps are all so nice and clean! I have a model 23 that was left for a number of years unused and the kerosene all evaporated out. The glass font had green residue that I cleaned out, but the burner has a lot of black residue that looks like tar. What would you recommend to clean it up?
arweninnj I use oven cleaner and or paint stripper depending on how bad it is. Some other collectors swear by ammonia, some like lemon ammonia. They will all work. I personally don’t like the smell or ammonia.
Have a great day
@@Kerosenecanada Thank you!
I found parts of an Aladdin lamp at
a garage sale. If I send you pics of what I have could you tell me what I need to order to out it together?
Great video, Question for ya, I recently pick up a Solar brand lamp that is very similar to the Aladdin model B or 23, Couldn't find any information on it. needs a new wick and mantle, before I buy them do you know if the Aladdin ones fit this brand? I am new to this!! Thanks!
Can you send me some pictures to dave@kerosenelamps.ca ?
I would really like to see it as I haven’t seen one before.
Cheers
Paraffin fuel supposedly burns cleaner with less soot and fumes, but some say that wax will eventually clog the wick in an Aladdin lamp. Which fuel is best?
Kerosene because it burns cleaner with no carbon build up on the wick. Cheers
When I burn my B burner with the B gallery assembly, the flame & incandescence is flickering/quivering regardless of the wick setting. When I put the 23 gallery assembly on this B burner, it's smooth. It also SEEMS the flame is higher and more jagged with the B gallery at a comparable incandescence level to the 23 gallery. What causes this? (The B gallery has a new India very wide & globe shaped mantle & at full tilt, the bottom 1/2" is not glowing, if that offers any hints.) Being OCD, these darn things can be frustrating. lol Thanks so much.
I borrowed another B gallery that works fine.. The micrometer showed the inner-most gallery cones are the same size, but the bad one is positioned higher which would cause a leak. I wonder if I can smack it down a bit with a proper diameter tool so it meets with the outer wick tube sooner?
FIXED IT! One of the 3 lips on the top of the basket that secures the gallery was bent down which caused the gallery to distort & rock when secured. Used pliers and bent it back up and now it works fine. The blue flame is still a tad shaky at lower settings, but incandescence flicker is now gone! Also used a NOS mantle instead of the new garbage Indian-made one. Those new mantles are destroyed during the initial burn-off process... disgraceful.
Before my grandma passed away, she gave to me the Aladdin lamp they used to light the farmhouse before they had electricity when she was a little girl. She said she remembered it being so bright that they had it in the middle of the room and the family could sit around it all reading in the own corners of the room. I looked up the design and think it’s a 23. I’ve replaced the wick and the mantle, and I can get it to light just fine. It seems to have a good even flame around the wick. I turn it on low, leave it a bit, and then try to turn it up brighter. But I seem to keep burning up the mantle when I turn it up. Am I just probably trying to turn it up to bright? Or what else might I be doing wrong?
I have a 23 that does this. I think it's not pulling in enough air to cool itself as even the nob to turn it up and down gets hot. I'm currently running a 23 with a high elevation chimney and it stays cool. I'm gonna order another, I can't switch them to verify as one is lox on and on is slip, and see if that helps the issue.
I realize is an older video but - I have a small metal cup like you use to put in your chimney when you blow it out, but I am nervous to use it for fear the very hot chimney may crack when the cold little cup is dropped in place. I just want to clarify, you place this little cup to stop the convection immediately after blowing out? You never had a cracking chimney doing this? Thanks.
Great videos. I am slowly piecing a small lamp hobby together and have relied on your vids a lot.
I have a very old Model B which needed a new wick. All of the videos I've seen, the wick carrier comes out the top (it seems all of the videos are for a 23?). On ours, it only comes out of the bottom, I'm guessing this is normal for a model B? Thanks!
Yes, it slides out the bottom.it’s easy to change, that’s why there is no videos.
Cheers
@@Kerosenecanada Thank you so much! I'm in the process of cleaning it up, pretty sure I need to polish up the wick tube, it's pretty rough. Thank you again for your help and the great videos!
@@Kerosenecanada One more question if I might....what would you recommend to clean off all of the dried kerosene from the flame spreader, etc.. So far, it laughs at mineral spirits... Thanks!
@@gregorymoore3526 try ammonia.
@@Kerosenecanada Thanks! I'll give that a shot!
I just bought some mantles labeled " Aladdin Upright Gaslight Mantles" They look like newer versions and the bases are made of aluminum. Are these safe to use? I've been told that the aluminum bases are prone to melting.
Those are designed gas lights, not kerosene. They won’t work. Sorry.
Cheers
I just wanted to say, I have just one model C that runs well. Its in a caboose lamp, but it was one of the ones that were sent to England for a re-work..
I have a MaxBright 500 Mod 502 and it's burning funny. If I buy a whole new Max Bright burner , would it solve the spikes ?
Have you tried a new wicks?
how can it be determined other than burning it if you have a good 23 burner or not? thanks for the video
There is no 100% guaranty that 23 is going to be a good one Kevin. A few things to look at is the f origin. England= great. Hong kong, not so much. Make sure there is nothing that cracked and you have a fresh wick. I have some really good 23's and some that are just not great.
Cheers
Thanks just got a new Aladdin and it’s start glowong low or in the middle never will toward top except if it’s at the point of over burn
I would have to guess on a lot of things. Burner type, new wick?
You might have to adjust the position of the flame spreader.
If your flame spreader is pushed in too low, the flame will be at higher point of the mantle.
If the flame spreader is too high then it will only light up the bottom of the mantle.
This is just a guess at this point.
Good luck.
I’m working a #6 Aladdin brass job but don’t have a 6 flame spreader. Know the best one to get the burner souped up?
Well the question is where do you live? I might know of a collector friend nearby.
The good news is that the 6 flame spreader is still a fairly common part.
As far as Souping up. They are a Hot Rod right out the box.
Cheers
The type of oil?please. I bought it but it smells
I use Kerosene here. If you are in UK , I believe you use Paraffin oil.it will last years if stored properly.
It really only smells when extinguished.
Cheers
Do you know if there's a mod I can do on a new model 11 wick to make it fit the old fashioned style model 11 carrier? I was thinking of compressing the locking lugs with pliers.
Aladdin’s R 198 wick should fit with no modification. New wicks are too short to work very long.
Cheers
Your kerosene looks clear. The one I bought has a peach color. Does that mean it’s stale?
Yes, or it’s a lamp oil product in the lamp.
@@Kerosenecanada weird I bought it at a place that sells from the pump like gas. It came that color. I’m just going to the box store instead and buying clear kerosene. Thanks for the help, getting ready for the 🥶 winter. Really miss your content😞
where can we get mantles for model 23s
They are pretty much sold out till next year. You have to search the web.
How can I acquire a wick for a Aladdin #11?Thanks
David McKeen imperial lighting has them, I would try Lehman’s as well. #R198 should be the correct part number.
Cheers
I NEED THIS TYPE OF LAMP PLEASE..THANK YOU!!!
Look grate lamp .. can get them in uk....
The information is in the video just not a succinct presentation.
I am having a problem with flickering and uneven burns. Sometimes the flickering is even audible. Mine is a 23 with the aladdin lamp on the knob. Any ideas? thanks
ok, I trimmed the wick like you showed with the knife, but used a double edge razor blade. With the wick riser all the way down, the wick was above the inner wick tube. I trimmed it flush and it is working great. Thanks for the video.
Muito legal queria ter um mas no Brasil não tem
👍🤜🏻
Bán sang việt nam đi
And I thought Aladdin lamps were American made!
I wish. The glass fonts are made in the states. The rest other than the wick come from China. Been like that for decades.
Cheers
are you kidding me? the way you trimmed that wick you will never get a round burn,
Lordphoton99 Linforthewin works for me. Also sunflame mantle lamps, a brand of Farmor also recommends this method of blade trimming.
@@Kerosenecanada the way you described it in words, yes! it will work, I'm not being disrespectful, it is the way you demonstrated on the video doesn't work, you can't burn away those loose thread if you have kerosene in the la,mp, and definitely not with a lighter and then you start to pull it with your fingers which create more loose thread, I would appreciate if you make a time lapsed video that you actually do it the right way so we all can see how it is done.
Lordphoton99 Linforthewin this method is for trimming only. The idea is that you are cutting off the carbon portion only. Realistically this will only remove the last 1/8 “ or less in carbon. As you said if you start cutting in to fresh wick, you run the risk of pulling threads. If your wick is way out then there is an underlying issue with lamp burner.
I just wanted to say, I have just one model C that runs well. Its in a caboose lamp, but it was one of the ones that were sent to England for a re-work..