Great video Nick! I love the way you methodically solved each problem you encountered. I've often wondered how turners duplicate pieces other than doing it freehand, and this show me. Thanks for sharing! 👍🏾
Plywood is better for flat templates as by its nature is less prone to warping than solid wood. 3D printing is also an option but nowhere near as accessible.
Very thorough video. Such a great idea. Yes, they sell jigs for this, but there just is something about designing and creating one yourself. You now have a new subscriber. God bless.
Absolutely loved this following your thought process, towards a good conclusion, have hit the subscribe button and look forward to more. I have already made a chess set with mixed results, so i might be making one of these and having another go
Thanks very much for watching! Let me know if you improve anything. I've found choosing the right wood is critical. Oak is terrible while mahogany is a dream. I'll share my chess set result before end of year hopefully
Great video. I'm making a duplicator jig as well for a 6 large table legs. I'm copying a picture the client likes, so I imported it into SketchUp, traced it and 3d printed my template. I'm hoping it'll hold up well and be more accurate than cheap plywood like your first try. Love the whole process.
@@Jefe332 question: did you make your jig with puzzle pieces to connect them? How did you accomplish that big of a 3d print? I’m working on a follow up and want to explore a 3d template
@@designisblank for my first one I just glued the flat sides together it with superglue. That’s held up great. But on my second attempt, I did make tongue and groove’s on the ends for the template to stay together better. And just super glueing everything seems to hold up pretty good.
I was going to use much the same method to make chess pieces. Then I thought of the knight. To remain consistent, I thought if I have to hand carve one I need to hand carve them all. I'd like to see your solution.
@@bobg58 challenge accepted! I’m passively working on a full set, I’ll share what I come up with in the future. Did you hand carve a full set? If so, bravo, that’s a skill I admire, but have no experience in.
Really like your thought process. This is the first video I have came across of yours, but I like how you showed alllllll of the work you did to attempt at creating an awesome jig. Instead of showing a build that is yay see its done and awesome and easy. Great fresh air to see that wood working is hard and yes work at times. Can not wait to go through your other videos. Definitely wont to see you perfect this jig. Do you by chance have a laser really curious if laser templates would work better maybe out of hardstock or even acrylic. I did share this video with a turning Discord to see what other say about the jig. Keep up the awesome work. 👽
Thank you very much for the kind words. I think there is a lot of value in the problem solving part, so I will definitely come back and improve this one based on some of the suggestions here. I think a laser template would work perfectly but I don’t have a laser cutter yet. Maybe someday, it’s on my list and right up my alley as a graphic designer. Thanks for watching and sharing, I really appreciate it!
When you're turning a small (nub) finial on your Bishop you should turn & near finish this part first, as it's furthest from your chuck! Workpiece vibration is your enemy here. One other problem is the amount of material you need to shift whilst making your pieces. Smaller Ø doweling would help here. Where you are turning down to anything like a point.. finishing 1 piece at a time would be better than reversing & completing 2 pcs. (I'm sure you know this already but worth mentioning again.)
@@johntravers7928 all great points! Thanks for the note on the finial especially. I just picked up a Morse taper extension for my tailstock that will help reach over my platform so I can use shorter blanks. But also may just want to drill and use my woodworm screw in the chuck. Re: the 2 pieces on each end, I assume the main drawback is that this adds more vibration, but are there other reasons not to do this?
@@حسین-ع9و7ن you could be right. If I could find a square tube with the right dimensions, you could tap and thread to hold the carbide tool. Good idea 👍
This is a very old and practiced way of making duplicates on the lather. 100 years old at least. Make your one sided guides made of acrylic cut on a laser, you get much smother parts that last a long time. Also allows you to scale them to what ever you want. Carry on, you might come up with something new no one thought about. There are almost more than two ways of doing one thing.
Thanks for watching. I can't wait to get a laser cutter to make templates. Sounds amazing. Exploring the various ways to accomplish something is a big part of the fun of making. Deciding which way works best for me and looking for ways to improve.
Hahaha, very true. I just wanted to make my jig more than think logically I guess 😂😂 it’s especially funny watching my past self do stuff like that when editing 🤦🏻♂️
Don't even bother with hardwood! You could try something nail hard like the nailer plates used on construction framing to protect electrical wiring from someone driving a nail into it. You might need to use STEEL that you can polish & harden. Your best bet would be to test mild steel and see how long those guides last to evaluate whether you're going to be cranking out enough pieces to get involved in using tool steel (basically spring steel) and annealing it soft to speed up shaping and polishing, and then re-harden (heat cherry red and quench) & temper it (heat shining surface to light straw color not letting it turn dark or blue). You could start with hard steel and grind the shape, but that will cause heat that to avoid, will take forever to make bigger pieces like the candle holders. You are going to find that if your "feeler" stop isn't as sharp as your cutting tool, it will limit the sharpness of your inside angles to the shape of the point on your feeler. Your inside and outside angle cuts will only be as sharp as the radius of the point on your feeler stop, and the sharper you make your feeler stop, the faster it and the part guide will wear. Both need to be hard enough to save you excess retooling! There's can be a lot involved in setting up a manufacturing process, but when you figure things out, the boom in product yield is like hitting the jackpot! Good luck to you!
Love seeing all the steps of learning and problem solving.
@@davebauerart thanks Dave. I really like making problems to solve! 😉
Great video Nick! I love the way you methodically solved each problem you encountered. I've often wondered how turners duplicate pieces other than doing it freehand, and this show me. Thanks for sharing! 👍🏾
@@gregjohnson8486 thanks for watching Greg!
Outstanding. Thank you for this. I will try this out.
@@pathardage1880 thanks for watching. Let me know how it works out.
Clever idea. Making the templates out of solid wood might be better than plywood. Also, for those so inclined, could be a use case for 3D printing.
Definitely! The more solid & smooth the better. CNC's, 3d printers or some careful manual work could work, good idea!
Plywood is better for flat templates as by its nature is less prone to warping than solid wood. 3D printing is also an option but nowhere near as accessible.
Very thorough video. Such a great idea. Yes, they sell jigs for this, but there just is something about designing and creating one yourself. You now have a new subscriber. God bless.
Thanks for watching, and I agree! I like the problem solving aspect. Welcome to the chaos! 🙏
Absolutely loved this following your thought process, towards a good conclusion, have hit the subscribe button and look forward to more. I have already made a chess set with mixed results, so i might be making one of these and having another go
Thanks very much for watching! Let me know if you improve anything. I've found choosing the right wood is critical. Oak is terrible while mahogany is a dream. I'll share my chess set result before end of year hopefully
Great video. I'm making a duplicator jig as well for a 6 large table legs. I'm copying a picture the client likes, so I imported it into SketchUp, traced it and 3d printed my template. I'm hoping it'll hold up well and be more accurate than cheap plywood like your first try. Love the whole process.
@@Jefe332 awesome good luck!
@@Jefe332 question: did you make your jig with puzzle pieces to connect them? How did you accomplish that big of a 3d print? I’m working on a follow up and want to explore a 3d template
@@designisblank for my first one I just glued the flat sides together it with superglue. That’s held up great. But on my second attempt, I did make tongue and groove’s on the ends for the template to stay together better. And just super glueing everything seems to hold up pretty good.
I was going to use much the same method to make chess pieces. Then I thought of the knight. To remain consistent, I thought if I have to hand carve one I need to hand carve them all. I'd like to see your solution.
@@bobg58 challenge accepted! I’m passively working on a full set, I’ll share what I come up with in the future. Did you hand carve a full set? If so, bravo, that’s a skill I admire, but have no experience in.
Really like your thought process. This is the first video I have came across of yours, but I like how you showed alllllll of the work you did to attempt at creating an awesome jig. Instead of showing a build that is yay see its done and awesome and easy. Great fresh air to see that wood working is hard and yes work at times. Can not wait to go through your other videos. Definitely wont to see you perfect this jig. Do you by chance have a laser really curious if laser templates would work better maybe out of hardstock or even acrylic. I did share this video with a turning Discord to see what other say about the jig. Keep up the awesome work. 👽
Thank you very much for the kind words. I think there is a lot of value in the problem solving part, so I will definitely come back and improve this one based on some of the suggestions here. I think a laser template would work perfectly but I don’t have a laser cutter yet. Maybe someday, it’s on my list and right up my alley as a graphic designer. Thanks for watching and sharing, I really appreciate it!
This is awesome broski
@@johnnyrodriguez5938 thanks man, I appreciate you watching
Makita! Probably the best tools globally.
@@Christian-x6f I like makita a lot, i wish they had more options for tools, but I think that’s coming soon
When you're turning a small (nub) finial on your Bishop you should turn & near finish this part first, as it's furthest from your chuck! Workpiece vibration is your enemy here. One other problem is the amount of material you need to shift whilst making your pieces. Smaller Ø doweling would help here. Where you are turning down to anything like a point.. finishing 1 piece at a time would be better than reversing & completing 2 pcs. (I'm sure you know this already but worth mentioning again.)
@@johntravers7928 all great points! Thanks for the note on the finial especially. I just picked up a Morse taper extension for my tailstock that will help reach over my platform so I can use shorter blanks. But also may just want to drill and use my woodworm screw in the chuck. Re: the 2 pieces on each end, I assume the main drawback is that this adds more vibration, but are there other reasons not to do this?
Sounds like you and Taylor Swift use the same Voice app. Nice work
It is a very interesting and smart idea. But in my opinion, it is easier and cheaper to make this device from metal.
@@حسین-ع9و7ن you could be right. If I could find a square tube with the right dimensions, you could tap and thread to hold the carbide tool. Good idea 👍
😃👍
This is a very old and practiced way of making duplicates on the lather. 100 years old at least. Make your one sided guides made of acrylic cut on a laser, you get much smother parts that last a long time. Also allows you to scale them to what ever you want. Carry on, you might come up with something new no one thought about. There are almost more than two ways of doing one thing.
Thanks for watching. I can't wait to get a laser cutter to make templates. Sounds amazing. Exploring the various ways to accomplish something is a big part of the fun of making. Deciding which way works best for me and looking for ways to improve.
Wish you all the best for your marriage :)
@@MarcHumer thank you!
Has 2" dowel, wishes it were a smaller diameter. Would have been nice to have a lathe in that situation, no?😂😂
Hahaha, very true. I just wanted to make my jig more than think logically I guess 😂😂 it’s especially funny watching my past self do stuff like that when editing 🤦🏻♂️
@designisblank it was all in good fun. I do that kind of stuff all the time lol. Pretty sure we all do. Great video!
@@anthonywitman9934 haha thanks bro, makers in solidarity 😂✊
Use super glue on your template to harden it up.
great idea!
Don't even bother with hardwood! You could try something nail hard like the nailer plates used on construction framing to protect electrical wiring from someone driving a nail into it.
You might need to use STEEL that you can polish & harden.
Your best bet would be to test mild steel and see how long those guides last to evaluate whether you're going to be cranking out enough pieces to get involved in using tool steel (basically spring steel) and annealing it soft to speed up shaping and polishing, and then re-harden (heat cherry red and quench) & temper it (heat shining surface to light straw color not letting it turn dark or blue).
You could start with hard steel and grind the shape, but that will cause heat that to avoid, will take forever to make bigger pieces like the candle holders.
You are going to find that if your "feeler" stop isn't as sharp as your cutting tool, it will limit the sharpness of your inside angles to the shape of the point on your feeler.
Your inside and outside angle cuts will only be as sharp as the radius of the point on your feeler stop, and the sharper you make your feeler stop, the faster it and the part guide will wear. Both need to be hard enough to save you excess retooling!
There's can be a lot involved in setting up a manufacturing process, but when you figure things out, the boom in product yield is like hitting the jackpot!
Good luck to you!