For various reasons my Adorama TV slots got juggled around a bit recently BUT from here on it's back to videos every other Thursday and I go live one Thursday in four 😁
Thank you but I have conclusive proof that I can't do everything. Skip to about half way and watch me fall to pieces 😉 th-cam.com/video/Xr1sK3D3IQQ/w-d-xo.html
Take away from this tutorial is Little! as in little flash fill :) Loved the photos, esp the use of depth of field. Thanks Gavin and of course Sam and Jade.
Another really insightful tutorial. Thanks for putting this together, Gavin. Would love to see some natural light photography tutorial as well, especially how the direction of light impacts the photo. Look forward to the next one from you. Cheers.
I learned daylight and flash lighting assisting top wedding photographer Monte Zucker back in 1972-1974 who introduced the use of off camera flash for shooting weddings and did all his formal portraits by north facing window light, both with careful attention to lighting pattern and precise facial angles. His flash approach was based on a strategy of always controlling lighting ratio by using one flash over the lens of the camera as centered fill, with the bracket raising it enough to hide the shadow it created down behind the subjects, and the second flash as Key light usually placed 45° to the side of nose of the subject because that models the 3D shape of the nose and facial features in a very flattering way and creates a “mask” pattern of highlights on the forehead, eyes, cheeks, mouth and chin which on a darker background creates eye catching and attention holding contrast on the eyes and mouth. Positioning the off camera flash so it was always one stop brighter than the fill on the bracket over the camera using relatives distances between lights per the inverse square law - e.g. fill @ 8ft / key @ 5.6ft or fill @ 11ft and key @ 8ft - created a 2:1 incident lighting ratio which allowed recording good detail in the shadow of the black suits of the men and the white dress of the bride. He taught that method to hundreds of other PPofA pros at conventions and private classes. Outdoors in sunlight to deal with the excessive contrast we’d always use the sun as back rim lighting, facing the subjects into the indirect skylight. Skylight while diffuse does have direction that will create a highlight pattern faces. So as with window lighting we’d first pose the face to that dominant direction at 45° to get the flattering 3D modeling and importantly have the subjects lift their faces into the light so the brow did not shade the eyes. Then instead of trying to overpower or cancel the natural light we’d place the key flash so it matched the modeling direction of the skylight at a distance where it was 2x brighter than the fill on the camera. It was really as simple logistically as using a single flash off camera with the added benefit of not having any dark distracting unfilled shadows on the face or clothing which will occur if a fill flash is not used.
Beautiful pictures Gavin Hoey! About a decade ago using flash or strobes on location were the thing however the idea back then was to over power ambient light giving the image an artificial feel. The way you did it gave it a perfect natural look. Thanks for all the great content you make and thanks ADORAMA for having videos like this on their channel!
Thanks Alexander. Actually I do have an overpowering the ambient video coming up, some location same model VERY different styling. That's the beauty of photography you can choose to be subtle or dramatic or both in one day 😉
Another great tutorial Gavin in your " not so small " garden studio! 😊 I was actually surprised your small flash managed to put out any light at that very demanding 1/8000th sec HSS. 😋
Hi Alan. Styling on this one was 100% Sam. Timing was everything as a week later and half the garden was flattened as the work to replace a fence got underway!
Well done Gavin, I knew the theory but this very instructive video helped me to fine-tune the process. Because it's all about the details. Thanks so much!
Great video... very useful. I shot with Jade earlier in the year in the Highlands and used my speedlight and softbox, which worked really well. Best wishes Jono
Hi Steven. Flash output and shutter speed usually are not usually connected UNLESS the flash is in HSS (high speed sync) mode. Then the shorter the shutter speed, the more the flash has to pulse and so each pulse is a lower light output. That's probably a massive oversimplification of HSS but it's as technical as I get 😉
Really useful as starting to get back outside again for shoots, been playing between the Aeos 2 LED light and AD200, and seeing which is easiest to work with and gives me the best results, still not as clear cut as I thought it woudl be ;)
Playing is the best way to learn. the Aeos is nice but limited in power and light mods compared to the EVOLV200 (AD200) but that has a fixed white balance... so many choices, no wonder photography is so hard to master 😉
Great video Gavin. The background looks cluttered in the video but the images show what can be achieved with careful positioning of the model and photographer. Great light too! I also like the meandering fresh cut path.
Hi it’s great to know allot about photography from your channel . But can you plz tell me more about Godox flash with CD L 15 some light modifier . Can I use my flash with this modifier without use of externally .
I am curious. You have a flash meter. Do you look for any particular flash contribution, or just eyeball it? I know the Sekonic meters can easily provide the flash contribution measurement.
When you are working with ambient light and using an artificial strobe to enhance do you follow the direction of the ambient light? What I mean is do you fill the shadows from the other side?
Good question. As a rough rule I try and keep my models face in as much shade as possible 1:36 A small amount of full summer sun (even for me in the UK) is enough to make a hot spot on the the face which isn't going away. After that, if there's an obvious direction of light in the background, it's logical to try and match that with the fill flash.
Hi Gavin! Thank you for another anazing video! I need a little help trying master this technique, can you help me understand why I should use an ISO 200 for these amazing shots? I wanna learn from the best, thanks in advance!
Gavin, i always watch your videos. I learnt a lot with them. Question: you said that if you adjust your shutter speed, you would have to adjust your flash power. But I thought that the shutter speed wouldn't affect the flash, only the ambient light? Thank you.
You're sort of correct. Usually shutter speed isn't a device to control flash BUT there's always an exception to every rule and this is it. High Speed Sync (HSS) flash output varies with shutter speed. Basically the shorter the shutter speed the less flash power you get at any given flash power setting. It bends my mind a bit, so I try not to get bogged down with the technical aspects. Test it for yourself and accept what you see 😉
When I shoot with flash, my shutter speed is limited to 1/200th of a second bc of the sync speed I assume? To shoot at 1/8000th, do you need a different, more powerful flash? Or is it a settings thing?
Thank you for the good tips and beautiful photoshoot. Do you need use gels to match the flash and ambient colour temperatures? Or is that only necessary when shooting in evening light? Thank you for your answer.
The short answer is you might want a warmer light as the sun sets and in those lower ambient light conditions I'd probably be reaching for something like my Nanlite FS-300B LED to visually match the light and colour.
This is amazing. But I'm curious if a reflector would have accomplished the same effect or would it look too different? I understand you get less control but technically, a reflector can be used to bounce light and fill shadows.
It would look different with a reflector but who's to say if different is good or bad. Flash gave me fine control and consistency but in photography there are no rules 😉
As usual, a great informative video. One question though, when you went from the speed light to a full flash you mentioned it would be a Xplor400, but when the pictures came up with the information on screen, it listed the flash as a XPLOR 300. Which one was it?
Good question Sam. Partly because the results I was after are less measurable and more aesthetic but also because not every photography has access to a meter or wants to use a flash meter.
And also, there’s very few light meters that work with HSS. Only expensive ones like sekonic’s L858 I think it is. And not the L308 which I think is Gavin’s one.
Excellent tips, thank you! I just finished shooting 300 youth baseball players in natural light and the amount of tweaking in Lightroom was too much. I'm' looking for a way to make each photo more consistent out of the camera, and I'm going to try using this technique next time.
I use and HDMI recorder / field monitor. There's lots of choices out there www.adorama.com/l/?searchinfo=hdmi%20recorder just make sure it can handle the frame rate / resolution of your game and has HDMI out if you need to pass through to a second monitor.
@@GavinHoey thank you Gavin. Not looking to monitor, I only want to record my Sony camera’s EVF. I knew of Atomos ninja star mini, but couldn’t find any left, or similar in size and portability.
Great Video! As always, your results are amazing!!! I do have on question: I appeared that Hi Speed Sync was not turned on, yet you took most of your pictures at speeds upwards of 2000. Did I miss something?
I actually use exactly what you see in the video. Depth of field is a mix of aperture, subject distance and lens focal length and full frame, M4/3 or anything in between that still holds true 😉
Great video Gavin. One question, you mentioned that changing the shutter speed will have an impact on your flash, but the shutter speed doesn’t impact the flash only the ambient light, right?
In theory the maximum flash output of the Flashpoint XPLOR400 is closer to 6 speedlightss but if you're throwing a sheet into the mix, somehow I don't think the maths matters so much 😉
I’ve got a speed light with a soft box that is maybe a 5”x5” over it. I’ve thought about using it on a tripod. Do I need a bigger soft box? Where a came up with the idea is by lighting my bird feeder and using my 300 mm lens to get close without frightening them away.
a 5 inch square softbox is only going to make the light "soft" at extremely close distances, so I'd suggest not bothering with it but take a test shot with and without and see for yourself. The Glow HexaPop 24" II Octagonal Softbox www.adorama.com/glsbhp24v2.html is on sale at the moment and could be what you're looking for ;)
Find the shade (on their faces) the bigger the group the more central I place the light and place the largest softbox you own at distance that's roughly even for the whole group.
Hooray!! Gavin is back again - our MOST FAVOURITE Adorama instructor. Learning is so much fun just watching this guy!!
I'm a simple man. I see Gavin post new video, I smash "like" button right away 👍💪👏
Thank you and keep doing that... and commenting 😊
@@GavinHoey 👍of course I will
All I can say is a big THANK YOU! Regards from a small town on the coast of Veracruz, Mexico.
Yea Gavin is back. My favorite dude! ❤
For various reasons my Adorama TV slots got juggled around a bit recently BUT from here on it's back to videos every other Thursday and I go live one Thursday in four 😁
@@GavinHoey Glad to hear. keep up the great content.
My favourite photographer of all time.
Excellent! You make difficult things to look easy. Good job
Gavin, you are so inspiring and versatile, is there anything you can't do ? Stop impressing me!!
Thank you but I have conclusive proof that I can't do everything. Skip to about half way and watch me fall to pieces 😉
th-cam.com/video/Xr1sK3D3IQQ/w-d-xo.html
Take away from this tutorial is Little! as in little flash fill :) Loved the photos, esp the use of depth of field. Thanks Gavin and of course Sam and Jade.
Gavin is such a great instructor! Clear and concise information. I have learnt so much from his videos! Thank you Gavin!
Good to see you again! The pictures look very natural, well done!
This is like a dream shoot. Love these videos.
Gavin always has the BEST useful content and instruction. Thanks!
Good to see you again! The pictures look very natural, well done!. challenging conditions Gavin, good results, Very informative photography content..
challenging conditions Gavin, good results, Very informative photography content.
Thanks John. The video camera did a much better job then expected at disguising the contrast 🌤
Another really insightful tutorial. Thanks for putting this together, Gavin. Would love to see some natural light photography tutorial as well, especially how the direction of light impacts the photo. Look forward to the next one from you. Cheers.
Another great video Gavin - Jade's photos came out beautiful
Thanks Peter. Jade is always a pleasure to work with 👍
Perfect explanation! Thanks 😊I like your videos!
So glad you are back. Your videos are so brilliant look forward to some fresh content feels like Christmas morning
Gavin is the best 💪🏻
I learned daylight and flash lighting assisting top wedding photographer Monte Zucker back in 1972-1974 who introduced the use of off camera flash for shooting weddings and did all his formal portraits by north facing window light, both with careful attention to lighting pattern and precise facial angles.
His flash approach was based on a strategy of always controlling lighting ratio by using one flash over the lens of the camera as centered fill, with the bracket raising it enough to hide the shadow it created down behind the subjects, and the second flash as Key light usually placed 45° to the side of nose of the subject because that models the 3D shape of the nose and facial features in a very flattering way and creates a “mask” pattern of highlights on the forehead, eyes, cheeks, mouth and chin which on a darker background creates eye catching and attention holding contrast on the eyes and mouth.
Positioning the off camera flash so it was always one stop brighter than the fill on the bracket over the camera using relatives distances between lights per the inverse square law - e.g. fill @ 8ft / key @ 5.6ft or fill @ 11ft and key @ 8ft - created a 2:1 incident lighting ratio which allowed recording good detail in the shadow of the black suits of the men and the white dress of the bride. He taught that method to hundreds of other PPofA pros at conventions and private classes.
Outdoors in sunlight to deal with the excessive contrast we’d always use the sun as back rim lighting, facing the subjects into the indirect skylight. Skylight while diffuse does have direction that will create a highlight pattern faces. So as with window lighting we’d first pose the face to that dominant direction at 45° to get the flattering 3D modeling and importantly have the subjects lift their faces into the light so the brow did not shade the eyes. Then instead of trying to overpower or cancel the natural light we’d place the key flash so it matched the modeling direction of the skylight at a distance where it was 2x brighter than the fill on the camera. It was really as simple logistically as using a single flash off camera with the added benefit of not having any dark distracting unfilled shadows on the face or clothing which will occur if a fill flash is not used.
Brilliant as always from Gavin; best teacher there is!
Wow, what a great lesson! Exactly what i am needing. Thanks so much Gavin and Sam!
Amazing all around!
Beautiful images and well composed.
Love your tutorials Gavin. Always full of positive energy.
Beautiful pictures Gavin Hoey! About a decade ago using flash or strobes on location were the thing however the idea back then was to over power ambient light giving the image an artificial feel. The way you did it gave it a perfect natural look. Thanks for all the great content you make and thanks ADORAMA for having videos like this on their channel!
Thanks Alexander. Actually I do have an overpowering the ambient video coming up, some location same model VERY different styling. That's the beauty of photography you can choose to be subtle or dramatic or both in one day 😉
@@GavinHoey Oh wow, can't wait to see that video Sir!
Using fill flash existed even during film photography times. I have read several books of the past that suggest fill flash.
Love these videos by Gavin! He keeps it real and fun.
Just ran across your page and I love it . Really you're the best I've seem. And i love how you explain things
Another great tutorial Gavin in your " not so small " garden studio! 😊 I was actually surprised your small flash managed to put out any light at that very demanding 1/8000th sec HSS. 😋
Thanks for this terrific lesson! I've been practicing exactly this in my backyard last week. THEN I saw your video! Cheers!
Excellent., thank u !!!!
Always great videos !!!
Super video, thank you. Styling was great, as was Jade. I love your images shot through out of focus foregrounds.
Hi Alan. Styling on this one was 100% Sam. Timing was everything as a week later and half the garden was flattened as the work to replace a fence got underway!
Thank you so much sir 🙏🏻 for
This detailed episode.....🙂 So nice of you ☺️
Well done Gavin, I knew the theory but this very instructive video helped me to fine-tune the process. Because it's all about the details. Thanks so much!
You're Awesome! Thanks again for a great video.
Really pretty photos Gavin ⭐
I adore Gavin's lectures❤❤❤❤
Lovely results.
Thank you for teaching us 🙏🏽
I love your outdoor shots. I expect more outdoor photo shoots from you.
Beautiful work Gavin. Really enjoyed this 😊😊
Thanks Paul 👍
Great video. 👍
Gavin, as always, gives all the necessary information
Great video... very useful. I shot with Jade earlier in the year in the Highlands and used my speedlight and softbox, which worked really well. Best wishes Jono
Excellent contribution, greetings from Mexico..
Great as always Gavin! Thank you
Magic photos
Great as always Gavin. Well done
Truly awesome!!
You taught me from the beginning.
Great, as always - many thanks. Could you explain why adjustments to the shutter speed would impact the flash component of the exposure? Thanks again
Hi Steven. Flash output and shutter speed usually are not usually connected UNLESS the flash is in HSS (high speed sync) mode. Then the shorter the shutter speed, the more the flash has to pulse and so each pulse is a lower light output. That's probably a massive oversimplification of HSS but it's as technical as I get 😉
Great Video!
beautiful set of images
Really useful as starting to get back outside again for shoots, been playing between the Aeos 2 LED light and AD200, and seeing which is easiest to work with and gives me the best results, still not as clear cut as I thought it woudl be ;)
Playing is the best way to learn. the Aeos is nice but limited in power and light mods compared to the EVOLV200 (AD200) but that has a fixed white balance... so many choices, no wonder photography is so hard to master 😉
Very informative video.. thank you Gavin..
Gavin, your biggest fan here..can you please consider doing a Master Class in the UK for us? I could gladly come and join it :)
Great video Gavin. The background looks cluttered in the video but the images show what can be achieved with careful positioning of the model and photographer. Great light too! I also like the meandering fresh cut path.
Thank you for calling out the freshly cut path 😎
super dooper shoot
Great video and tips on
Thank you
Good video Gavin, but remember....the tires are only flat on the bottom ;-)
Fantastic lesson! Beautiful photos!
Hi it’s great to know allot about photography from your channel . But can you plz tell me more about Godox flash with CD L 15 some light modifier . Can I use my flash with this modifier without use of externally .
I am curious. You have a flash meter. Do you look for any particular flash contribution, or just eyeball it? I know the Sekonic meters can easily provide the flash contribution measurement.
Thanks so much you make easier to understand!
Excellent as always!
❤ love the video
Nice, again. 🙂
Good stuff, Gav!
Question 😁 why don't you use a grid on those boxes outdoor?
When you are working with ambient light and using an artificial strobe to enhance do you follow the direction of the ambient light? What I mean is do you fill the shadows from the other side?
Good question. As a rough rule I try and keep my models face in as much shade as possible 1:36 A small amount of full summer sun (even for me in the UK) is enough to make a hot spot on the the face which isn't going away. After that, if there's an obvious direction of light in the background, it's logical to try and match that with the fill flash.
Hi Gavin! Thank you for another anazing video! I need a little help trying master this technique, can you help me understand why I should use an ISO 200 for these amazing shots? I wanna learn from the best, thanks in advance!
Nice, Gavin and Jade!
Thanks Mike 👍
Great video Gavin hope it wasn't too warm for you
The weather was a near to perfect as I get for a outside location session 🌤️
@@GavinHoey I agree with you
Gavin, i always watch your videos. I learnt a lot with them. Question: you said that if you adjust your shutter speed, you would have to adjust your flash power. But I thought that the shutter speed wouldn't affect the flash, only the ambient light? Thank you.
You're sort of correct. Usually shutter speed isn't a device to control flash BUT there's always an exception to every rule and this is it. High Speed Sync (HSS) flash output varies with shutter speed. Basically the shorter the shutter speed the less flash power you get at any given flash power setting. It bends my mind a bit, so I try not to get bogged down with the technical aspects. Test it for yourself and accept what you see 😉
I hope you make a video about Graduation Photography outdoor and indoor with cap and gown with kids or Model like her
Great summery feel to the pictures well done 📸
Thanks Mick, it's been the perfect year for it (so far) 🌞
Great photographer.
Muchas gracias.
He is da best❤
When I shoot with flash, my shutter speed is limited to 1/200th of a second bc of the sync speed I assume? To shoot at 1/8000th, do you need a different, more powerful flash? Or is it a settings thing?
Turn on HSS (high speed synch) on your flash. That allows you to shoot at any shutter speed. The trade off is the reduction of light power.
Thank you for the good tips and beautiful photoshoot.
Do you need use gels to match the flash and ambient colour temperatures?
Or is that only necessary when shooting in evening light?
Thank you for your answer.
The short answer is you might want a warmer light as the sun sets and in those lower ambient light conditions I'd probably be reaching for something like my Nanlite FS-300B LED to visually match the light and colour.
This is amazing. But I'm curious if a reflector would have accomplished the same effect or would it look too different? I understand you get less control but technically, a reflector can be used to bounce light and fill shadows.
It would look different with a reflector but who's to say if different is good or bad. Flash gave me fine control and consistency but in photography there are no rules 😉
Awesome and very informative as always, Gavin. Quick Q: why are you shooting at ISO 200?
200 ISO is the native ISO for Olympus / OM SYSTEM cameras. Other ISO's are available of course 😉
As usual, a great informative video. One question though, when you went from the speed light to a full flash you mentioned it would be a Xplor400, but when the pictures came up with the information on screen, it listed the flash as a XPLOR 300. Which one was it?
Check out 8:22 It's a Flashpoint XPLOR400 Pro. Links to the flashes and other gear are in the video description 👍
Excellent informative video. Why didn’t you use a light/flash meter?
Good question Sam. Partly because the results I was after are less measurable and more aesthetic but also because not every photography has access to a meter or wants to use a flash meter.
And also, there’s very few light meters that work with HSS. Only expensive ones like sekonic’s L858 I think it is. And not the L308 which I think is Gavin’s one.
Excellent tips, thank you! I just finished shooting 300 youth baseball players in natural light and the amount of tweaking in Lightroom was too much. I'm' looking for a way to make each photo more consistent out of the camera, and I'm going to try using this technique next time.
300 to edit... I've been there too! Yep, find the shade and your own light and save yourself hours of editing 😁
Put them on negative box
Thank you!
Gavin, what are you using to record your EVF? I would like to record mine during games.
I use and HDMI recorder / field monitor. There's lots of choices out there www.adorama.com/l/?searchinfo=hdmi%20recorder just make sure it can handle the frame rate / resolution of your game and has HDMI out if you need to pass through to a second monitor.
@@GavinHoey thank you Gavin. Not looking to monitor, I only want to record my Sony camera’s EVF. I knew of Atomos ninja star mini, but couldn’t find any left, or similar in size and portability.
I think the gear list is wrong - listing the round OTA-C adapter instead of the Glow ParaPop OTA-S Speedlight Mount For OTA Adapter.
Great Video! As always, your results are amazing!!! I do have on question: I appeared that Hi Speed Sync was not turned on, yet you took most of your pictures at speeds upwards of 2000. Did I miss something?
If you look at time 5:29, on the flash transmitter, you will see an icon with an H and a flash bolt . That indicates HSS is active. I hope this helps.
Missed that. Thanks for clarifying.
Great as always one small issue your screen shots of images on bike has 300 when you had a 400
Nice photoshoot. Cg
it seems to me impossible to have the blurry one with a m.4/3 at f/1.4, I couldn't even with a ff or aps-c at 1.4. What do you actually use?
I actually use exactly what you see in the video. Depth of field is a mix of aperture, subject distance and lens focal length and full frame, M4/3 or anything in between that still holds true 😉
Great video Gavin. One question, you mentioned that changing the shutter speed will have an impact on your flash, but the shutter speed doesn’t impact the flash only the ambient light, right?
In HSS, the flash is basically acting like a continuous light, so it is affected by shutter speed the same as any continuous light is.
the best
Can i simulate the output of the xplor 400 with three speedlites and a bed sheet?
In theory the maximum flash output of the Flashpoint XPLOR400 is closer to 6 speedlightss but if you're throwing a sheet into the mix, somehow I don't think the maths matters so much 😉
Great video as usual. Question - any way to estimate the fill flash based on the ambient?
Hi Steve. Once you've dialled in YOUR look you could take a flash meter reading and work backwards from there.
thank you😃
I’ve got a speed light with a soft box that is maybe a 5”x5” over it. I’ve thought about using it on a tripod. Do I need a bigger soft box? Where a came up with the idea is by lighting my bird feeder and using my 300 mm lens to get close without frightening them away.
a 5 inch square softbox is only going to make the light "soft" at extremely close distances, so I'd suggest not bothering with it but take a test shot with and without and see for yourself. The Glow HexaPop 24" II Octagonal Softbox www.adorama.com/glsbhp24v2.html is on sale at the moment and could be what you're looking for ;)
Just looked and Adorama won’t ship to the UK.
But they will ship to "Great Britain" 😉
Amazing
Good explanations sir. How to fill flash at location for group, sir?
Find the shade (on their faces) the bigger the group the more central I place the light and place the largest softbox you own at distance that's roughly even for the whole group.