OMG, I have changed fuel pumps on sbc since 1982 and never heard of this, I'm officially turning in my toolbox for golf clubs. Thank you for your time and thank you for making me feel like I'm in high school auto shop. Seriously great video, short, sweet and to the point.
My sbc doesn’t have that bolt. My 83 yr old dad told me to put grease on the end of the rod and it’ll “glue” it in place and hold it while I install the fuel pump. Worked great with zero issue.
i was born in the late 50s the first car i ever bought was a 57 chevy for 150. 00 and drove it home those 2 bolts in the front were the motor mounts , so you took the top bolt out of your motor mount and used a longer one to hold the rod. but you had to be careful when working on a car to not put the wrong bolt in or you would lock up your fuel pump. and back then we could rebuild our starters generators and fuel pumps we just went down to the coast to coast or gambles hardware stores and got brushes and diaphragms and got things running again setting on the side of the road. so those where originally motor mount bolts. one other thing from those days we carried a hand pump and patches to repair our flats on the old bias ply tires the tube ones weren't so bad . but the tubeless ones you had to use the bumper jack to break the bead. so you either carried a block of wood or 2 jacks. aw the good old days.
WHERE WAS THIS ADVICE 40 YEARS AGO WHEN I STARTED WORKING ON CARS. THANK YOU FOR IT NOW, I NEED TO CHANGE WHAT IS HOPEFULLY THE LAST SBC FUEL PUMP I WILL NEED TO DO
Fantastic! My Dad always worked on the V8s when I was growing up and I never had one myself until the last 12 years. Today I am changing out the 40 year old pump on a 72 Jimmy, and I've been dreading this moment. Voila! Yours is the 1st video I picked! Thank you!! (I'll bet my Dad didn't even know this)
The bolts are 3/8"-16. The 16 in the bolt size means there's 16 threads per inch. The length of the small one he removed showing 7 threads appears to be a thread length of 7/16" or 0.4375". Which I'm going to make. I bought a pack of two at Lowes($1.38, grade 8) but the shortest length they sell is 3/4". I don't know if they'll work without interfering at that length but I'll be safe and cut or grind them down to that 7/16" or even 1/2" length. My measurement of the fuel pump bolt thread length is about 1.412" so with the 3/4" length you have a difference of about 0.662" I also used this method to replace a fuel pump. Turned the engine to top dead center. This leaves the push rod lose and up. Used the fuel pump bolt to hold the rod up. Removing the old pump and replaced with new. Put one fuel pump bolt in finger tight then removed the bolt from the front and bring it back to the other fuel pump hole. No need for saw blades and no tension with tightening. Torque spec I found is 25-35 ft-lb, I did 30 ft-lb, for the fuel pump bolts.
I have a 1966 C10 with a 283 and there is not a push rod bolt to be seen on my block. What can you do to hold push rod up when there is no bolt in the block such as what your video is showing?
Have one that was a new crate motor and did not have the hole punched all the way through the block for the front bolt. Used the hacksaw trick and worked.
Recently learned about this trick, went to do it when swapping a pump on a friends 350. Turns out the guy he had do the engine swap broke the head off that small bolt on the face of the block, so I couldn't do this trick. Found using assembly lube worked though. Lubed the pushrod up, and the lube is sticky enough it held the pushrod in place while I installed the new pump. Then found out the fitting on the fuel line was bad so it leaks. Waiting on new fuel line to be delivered now. It's alllllways something.
Hello, have a 5.7 L Mercruiser Chevy engine in my boat. Ran it today across the lake, runs great. Backed off the throttle when I reached my destination & when I tried to accelerate again it Boggs down. I’ve done a tune up , rebuilt carbs, changed fuel filters, wondering if you think it would be good idea to change fuel pump? And if I do, is there anything special you have to do prior to removing bolt & putting longer one in? To make sure rod is up, or down? I apologize if this is a dumb question.
I took my fuel pump out and was thinking of how I was going to get it back in after I noticed the pushrod slide down. I watched your video along with several others and was relieved to learn this trick. This morning I went to reinstall the pump thinking this issue was resolved and saw that not only was the side bolts not there the block was never drilled and tapped. I thought I had an older 327 but ??? Any thoughts ?
I have the serpentine bracket bolted to that hole for the rod. I cut a milk jug handle to fit in there and push up the rod while I push the pump up at the same time sliding the plastic tab out and quickly threading the bolt to hold it in position. The plastic is stiff enough to push up and hold the rod and smooth enough slide across the metal. It works with the results being the same
You should have a bolt in the front of the block like you showed with a washer so without the washer it’s just long enough to touch the pump rod but when you’re done reinstall the washer so it’s always there and you don’t have go looking or worry about damaging your pump rod.
I think u just saved me alot of time. On my boat which has 2 engines. The starboard engine is very hard to get to for the pump. So this will makes it the kats
Does this work on dodge? I have a 1977 power wagon and the old fuel pump barely worked and had a lot of problems, but when the new one was put in, nothing at all. Doesn't even pull gas but you can see where the cam is hitting it. Im lost. Could the pump be bad, or am I just an idiot? I have a electric pump installed right now, but I don't like it because it uses more gas than required and also just doesn't work as well.
Does this work on 1986 454. I fought same issue for hours today because the frame rails and emission crap on my square body. Not with the truck but maybe it is the same?
So I’m guessing it’s only for small block? I have a chevy 454 and I have the holes but no screws. I’m guessing they are blocked inside . No oil ever came out form it.
Run it over higher speeds then you’ll see . Or a 454 is different. My buddy paid over $500 bucks in repairs on a 350 engine . He came to my house, he had drove on the freeway. And he said it leaked when it was in high speeds.I thought it was odd ! I took a look and I seen the bolt missing. Plugged it up & Guess what ! Problem solved !!!
@@Aerondighteternal The bolts are 3/8"-16. The 16 in the bolt size means there's 16 threads per inch. The length of the small one he removed showing 7 threads appears to be a thread length of 7/16 or 0.4375". Which I'm going to make. I bought a pack of two at Lowes($1.38) but the shortest length they sell is 3/4". I don't know if they'll work without interfering at that length but I'll be safe and cut or grind them down to that 7/16" or even 1/2" length. My measurement of the fuel pump bolt thread length is about 1.412" so with the 3/4" length you have a difference of about 0.662"
yea, I forgot about that I wonder if my 1983 6.2 diesel has that? Not all Chevy engines had that though. At least back in the 70s and 80s when I worked on older then 1980s engines.
Some blocks don’t have that bolt hole. I have just pushed the rod up and slipped the pump arm under it and pushed the pump in place and bolted it down.
The ‘58, 283 I’m working on either doesn’t have the bolt hole or the serpentine garbage the owner put on it is using the hole. Hopefully the assembly lube trick will work.
Quick and simple if you happen to own a SBC from yesturyear.... fast forward to just a few years ago to today, especially the ZZ crate engines, that same hole is drilled and tapped, but it no longer goes through into the pushrod channel, so you have to do things the hard way.
I've seen this trick many times on You tube but it didn't work for me. I replaced my 350 with a GM crate 350. The bolt hole is blocked on my engine. I ended up using a magnet to raise the pushrod then I used a piece of heavy duty zip tie to hold the pushrod in place as installed the pump. Then removed the zip tie as the pump was partially installed. I was cursing Chevy the whole time!
Easy on an engine stand. A pain in the pants on the vehicle, Also sometimes the bolt cavity can fill with a grease like substance and make it difficult to install the holding bolt in which case you should remove the pushrod and bottom out the long bolt to remove the grease-like impediment. Then reinstall the pushrod and bolt down the holding bolt. Just sayin' Mike
The bolts are 3/8"-16. The 16 in the bolt size means there's 16 threads per inch. The length of the small one he removed showing 7 threads appears to be a thread length of 7/16 or 0.4375". Which I'm going to make. I bought a pack of two at Lowes($1.38) but the shortest length they sell is 3/4". I don't know if they'll work without interfering at that length but I'll be safe and cut or grind them down to that 7/16" or even 1/2" length. My measurement of the fuel pump bolt thread length is about 1.412" so with the 3/4" length you have a difference of about 0.662"
my dad thought me this when i was 9 years old also get the engine to #1 cylinder on rotation so that push rod is in loose upward in the fuel pump slot. Just use a screw driver in the bolt hole why bother threading a longer bolt into it?
@@darinandalinahouse9596 learn something new everyday 🤷 I was just thinking maybe the newer blocks because they were starting to put block off plates on the fuel pumps because they were using electric ones in some vehicles
The bolts are 3/8"-16. The 16 in the bolt size means there's 16 threads per inch. The length of the small one he removed showing 7 threads appears to be a thread length of 7/16 or 0.4375". Which I'm going to make. I bought a pack of two at Lowes($1.38) but the shortest length they sell is 3/4". I don't know if they'll work without interfering at that length but I'll be safe and cut or grind them down to that 7/16" or even 1/2" length. My measurement of the fuel pump bolt thread length is about 1.412" so with the 3/4" length you have a difference of about 0.662"
@@deliveryguyrx The bolts are 3/8"-16. The 16 in the bolt size means there's 16 threads per inch. The length of the small one he removed showing 7 threads appears to be a thread length of 7/16 or 0.4375". Which I'm going to make. I bought a pack of two at Lowes($1.38) but the shortest length they sell is 3/4". I don't know if they'll work without interfering at that length but I'll be safe and cut or grind them down to that 7/16" or even 1/2" length. My measurement of the fuel pump bolt thread length is about 1.412" so with the 3/4" length you have a difference of about 0.662"
Just tried to put my 1979K5 blazer new fuel pump in its impossible without taking off the radiator fan shroud And smog pump with brackets show me one of those videos
@@MannyAguilarJr I got it eventually by holding the rod back with a sawsall blade. The issue I had is the bolt didn’t tough the rod, it was the right hole i triple checked, the bolt should of been long enough because it stopped turning before the head met the block, so it bottomed out somewhere. I’m not sure what the issue was with this trick
Bro!! I've been working on Sbc for 25 years and I've never known this! So awesome! Lol... How can you now love TH-cam.
OMG, I have changed fuel pumps on sbc since 1982 and never heard of this, I'm officially turning in my toolbox for golf clubs. Thank you for your time and thank you for making me feel like I'm in high school auto shop.
Seriously great video, short, sweet and to the point.
Didn’t work for me, so now skeptical..
@@erictyson6863 i have since come across a couple sbc that don't have that hole as an option. spot of axle grease always works
My sbc doesn’t have that bolt. My 83 yr old dad told me to put grease on the end of the rod and it’ll “glue” it in place and hold it while I install the fuel pump. Worked great with zero issue.
This is the best video on this topic. Short and sweet. Super useful.
i was born in the late 50s the first car i ever bought was a 57 chevy for 150. 00 and drove it home those 2 bolts in the front were the motor mounts , so you took the top bolt out of your motor mount and used a longer one to hold the rod. but you had to be careful when working on a car to not put the wrong bolt in or you would lock up your fuel pump. and back then we could rebuild our starters generators and fuel pumps we just went down to the coast to coast or gambles hardware stores and got brushes and diaphragms and got things running again setting on the side of the road. so those where originally motor mount bolts. one other thing from those days we carried a hand pump and patches to repair our flats on the old bias ply tires the tube ones weren't so bad . but the tubeless ones you had to use the bumper jack to break the bead. so you either carried a block of wood or 2 jacks. aw the good old days.
WHERE WAS THIS ADVICE 40 YEARS AGO WHEN I STARTED WORKING ON CARS. THANK YOU FOR IT NOW, I NEED TO CHANGE WHAT IS HOPEFULLY THE LAST SBC FUEL PUMP I WILL NEED TO DO
This saved me from hours of frustration. Thanks!
Works great. I replaced fuel pump in my 283, and i did it very easy with this method. Thanks.
Fantastic! My Dad always worked on the V8s when I was growing up and I never had one myself until the last 12 years. Today I am changing out the 40 year old pump on a 72 Jimmy, and I've been dreading this moment. Voila! Yours is the 1st video I picked! Thank you!! (I'll bet my Dad didn't even know this)
Great video! I am missing that bolt and the one below it. Now I know where the oil is leaking from. Do you know what the one below it is for? Thanks.
The bolts are 3/8"-16. The 16 in the bolt size means there's 16 threads per inch. The length of the small one he removed showing 7 threads appears to be a thread length of 7/16" or 0.4375". Which I'm going to make. I bought a pack of two at Lowes($1.38, grade 8) but the shortest length they sell is 3/4". I don't know if they'll work without interfering at that length but I'll be safe and cut or grind them down to that 7/16" or even 1/2" length. My measurement of the fuel pump bolt thread length is about 1.412" so with the 3/4" length you have a difference of about 0.662"
I also used this method to replace a fuel pump. Turned the engine to top dead center. This leaves the push rod lose and up. Used the fuel pump bolt to hold the rod up. Removing the old pump and replaced with new. Put one fuel pump bolt in finger tight then removed the bolt from the front and bring it back to the other fuel pump hole. No need for saw blades and no tension with tightening. Torque spec I found is 25-35 ft-lb, I did 30 ft-lb, for the fuel pump bolts.
Absolutely a life saver! Thank you.
Best tip I've seen so far. Shorrt and direct. Keep it up G.
81 Trans am 305 Chev SB ... Just saved me a migraine with this tip. I wish I knew this 3 replacements ago..😂😂
That was awesome sir
Very simple, and straight to the point.
A engineering trick they used back then.
Hell yeah, I want more of these! I have liked and subscribe.
Dave from Connecticut
You're killing these video uploads!!! So good!
I have a 1966 C10 with a 283 and there is not a push rod bolt to be seen on my block. What can you do to hold push rod up when there is no bolt in the block such as what your video is showing?
I always used assembly lube on the shaft. It holds it in place just long enough to get the pump in position.
Have one that was a new crate motor and did not have the hole punched all the way through the block for the front bolt. Used the hacksaw trick and worked.
Recently learned about this trick, went to do it when swapping a pump on a friends 350. Turns out the guy he had do the engine swap broke the head off that small bolt on the face of the block, so I couldn't do this trick. Found using assembly lube worked though. Lubed the pushrod up, and the lube is sticky enough it held the pushrod in place while I installed the new pump. Then found out the fitting on the fuel line was bad so it leaks. Waiting on new fuel line to be delivered now. It's alllllways something.
That's how I do mine. I never knew this trick before. Now I don't have to track down grease anymore.
You the man. I've heard this discussed but your video is great. Thanks
Mother of god. You saved me so much time
Hello, have a 5.7 L Mercruiser Chevy engine in my boat. Ran it today across the lake, runs great. Backed off the throttle when I reached my destination & when I tried to accelerate again it Boggs down. I’ve done a tune up , rebuilt carbs, changed fuel filters, wondering if you think it would be good idea to change fuel pump? And if I do, is there anything special you have to do prior to removing bolt & putting longer one in? To make sure rod is up, or down? I apologize if this is a dumb question.
I took my fuel pump out and was thinking of how I was going to get it back in after I noticed the pushrod slide down. I watched your video along with several others and was relieved to learn this trick. This morning I went to reinstall the pump thinking this issue was resolved and saw that not only was the side bolts not there the block was never drilled and tapped. I thought I had an older 327 but ???
Any thoughts ?
Are you pushing the rod all the way up or how to know where it should be??
//Fredde
I have the serpentine bracket bolted to that hole for the rod. I cut a milk jug handle to fit in there and push up the rod while I push the pump up at the same time sliding the plastic tab out and quickly threading the bolt to hold it in position. The plastic is stiff enough to push up and hold the rod and smooth enough slide across the metal. It works with the results being the same
Thank you so much for this, I'm dealing with the exact same problem right now and hopefully this will work.
Did you get it??
You saved me a headache 😁 Thank you so much for sharing this with us really appreciate it Buddy 👍👍👍
Wow. Shyt got on my last nerve. Thanks for the info. Thinking I may have to do it again
You should have a bolt in the front of the block like you showed with a washer so without the washer it’s just long enough to touch the pump rod but when you’re done reinstall the washer so it’s always there and you don’t have go looking or worry about damaging your pump rod.
I think u just saved me alot of time. On my boat which has 2 engines. The starboard engine is very hard to get to for the pump. So this will makes it the kats
Does this work on dodge? I have a 1977 power wagon and the old fuel pump barely worked and had a lot of problems, but when the new one was put in, nothing at all. Doesn't even pull gas but you can see where the cam is hitting it. Im lost. Could the pump be bad, or am I just an idiot?
I have a electric pump installed right now, but I don't like it because it uses more gas than required and also just doesn't work as well.
Yes just did mine saved a lot of time and have to remember to put that bolt back in front or you will have an oil leak there .
Does this work on 1986 454. I fought same issue for hours today because the frame rails and emission crap on my square body. Not with the truck but maybe it is the same?
is there a similar trick for a '64 pontiac GTO? Doesn't seem to have that bolt hole option.
So I’m guessing it’s only for small block? I have a chevy 454 and I have the holes but no screws. I’m guessing they are blocked inside . No oil ever came out form it.
Run it over higher speeds then you’ll see . Or a 454 is different. My buddy paid over $500 bucks in repairs on a 350 engine . He came to my house, he had drove on the freeway. And he said it leaked when it was in high speeds.I thought it was odd ! I took a look and I seen the bolt missing. Plugged it up & Guess what ! Problem solved !!!
@@gustavoesqueda9964 what bolt is that? Mines missing
@@Aerondighteternal The bolts are 3/8"-16. The 16 in the bolt size means there's 16 threads per inch. The length of the small one he removed showing 7 threads appears to be a thread length of 7/16 or 0.4375". Which I'm going to make. I bought a pack of two at Lowes($1.38) but the shortest length they sell is 3/4". I don't know if they'll work without interfering at that length but I'll be safe and cut or grind them down to that 7/16" or even 1/2" length. My measurement of the fuel pump bolt thread length is about 1.412" so with the 3/4" length you have a difference of about 0.662"
yea, I forgot about that I wonder if my 1983 6.2 diesel has that? Not all Chevy engines had that though. At least back in the 70s and 80s when I worked on older then 1980s engines.
Ur a life saver man even 3 years later
Wow that’s easy. Why do people stick things like a hacksaw blade if that hole was meant for that? Thanks for the tip
Some blocks don’t have that bolt hole.
I have just pushed the rod up and slipped the pump arm under it and pushed the pump in place and bolted it down.
The ‘58, 283 I’m working on either doesn’t have the bolt hole or the serpentine garbage the owner put on it is using the hole. Hopefully the assembly lube trick will work.
THATS THE BEST!!! Nice goin Rich!
I wish I knew this a week ago 😂 thank you though still saved my night
THANX FOR THE Tip. I guess I'm Subscriber 1,000!
Quick and simple if you happen to own a SBC from yesturyear.... fast forward to just a few years ago to today, especially the ZZ crate engines, that same hole is drilled and tapped, but it no longer goes through into the pushrod channel, so you have to do things the hard way.
Exactly..I got a crate and dealing with this now...looking for tricks
Thanks for telling me that. Now I will know ahead of time if I have to install a new pump.
Glad I found this video going to try this on 1950 style line
I've seen this trick many times on You tube but it didn't work for me. I replaced my 350 with a GM crate 350. The bolt hole is blocked on my engine. I ended up using a magnet to raise the pushrod then I used a piece of heavy duty zip tie to hold the pushrod in place as installed the pump. Then removed the zip tie as the pump was partially installed. I was cursing Chevy the whole time!
I was taught to put a dab of grease on the rod to hold it in place but I'll have to try this
Im always amazed at how many sbc people dont know about this.
I just put some grease on the shaft and pushed it in. The grease holds shaft in place until you install the pump.
I filled the area with expansion foam now im fucked lol
Is it the same on a AMC 304
Easy on an engine stand. A pain in the pants on the vehicle, Also sometimes the bolt cavity can fill with a grease like substance and make it difficult to install the holding bolt in which case you should remove the pushrod and bottom out the long bolt to remove the grease-like impediment. Then reinstall the pushrod and bolt down the holding bolt. Just sayin' Mike
Whats the size of those bolts on the side holding the push rod? Missing the bottom bolt
The bolts are 3/8"-16. The 16 in the bolt size means there's 16 threads per inch. The length of the small one he removed showing 7 threads appears to be a thread length of 7/16 or 0.4375". Which I'm going to make. I bought a pack of two at Lowes($1.38) but the shortest length they sell is 3/4". I don't know if they'll work without interfering at that length but I'll be safe and cut or grind them down to that 7/16" or even 1/2" length. My measurement of the fuel pump bolt thread length is about 1.412" so with the 3/4" length you have a difference of about 0.662"
Dude awesome video thank you
My 350 fuel pump bolts are a different size than the ones on the block, won't work on my setup
What if it’s a ford f100 and it’s in tight spaces?
Great, I wish I knew that when I was younger I always used a hack Blade before. I knew anything about holding that up. I thought I invented it.
my dad thought me this when i was 9 years old also get the engine to #1 cylinder on rotation so that push rod is in loose upward in the fuel pump slot. Just use a screw driver in the bolt hole why bother threading a longer bolt into it?
Oldie but a goodie
Thanks for the tip
the SBC we're working on doesn't hold the rod.
I wish every tutorial video was like this. 1:19 where every other upload is 15 minutes of nonsense first.
Thank you!
Not all blocks are drilled all the way through.
I put grease on the pushrod, holds it place just fine
How come when I use the long bolt in that hole, it bottoms out and tighten it just a touch more , the bolt still slides down?
Not all blocks are drilled all the way through
@@greatwhite8571 well there you go. Thanks. That’s the first time I’ve heard that.
@@darinandalinahouse9596 I believe it's the later 350s 86 and up some were drilled and some not probably when Tbi came about
@@greatwhite8571 my engine is a 73 sbc
@@darinandalinahouse9596 learn something new everyday 🤷 I was just thinking maybe the newer blocks because they were starting to put block off plates on the fuel pumps because they were using electric ones in some vehicles
HOLY CRAP! - THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!!! 😎👍
Longer Bolt doesn’t hold push rod very frustrating
Thanks a million
Thanks 👍🇺🇸
Shit my engine is missing that bolt. What size is that?
Ok so someone may have siliconed that hole it's a common oil leak area without a bolt installed..makes a mess once silicon breaks down,
3/8"-16 X short AF.
The bolts are 3/8"-16. The 16 in the bolt size means there's 16 threads per inch. The length of the small one he removed showing 7 threads appears to be a thread length of 7/16 or 0.4375". Which I'm going to make. I bought a pack of two at Lowes($1.38) but the shortest length they sell is 3/4". I don't know if they'll work without interfering at that length but I'll be safe and cut or grind them down to that 7/16" or even 1/2" length. My measurement of the fuel pump bolt thread length is about 1.412" so with the 3/4" length you have a difference of about 0.662"
@@deliveryguyrx The bolts are 3/8"-16. The 16 in the bolt size means there's 16 threads per inch. The length of the small one he removed showing 7 threads appears to be a thread length of 7/16 or 0.4375". Which I'm going to make. I bought a pack of two at Lowes($1.38) but the shortest length they sell is 3/4". I don't know if they'll work without interfering at that length but I'll be safe and cut or grind them down to that 7/16" or even 1/2" length. My measurement of the fuel pump bolt thread length is about 1.412" so with the 3/4" length you have a difference of about 0.662"
Grease also works.
Just tried to put my 1979K5 blazer new fuel pump in its impossible without taking off the radiator fan shroud And smog pump with brackets show me one of those videos
Awesoke
Love it
That was awesome!!
Holy shmoly!!! Thank you
Thank you
Of course if you RTFM, you would know it is not a trick, it is part of the factory service procedure.
Thanks for educating me
40 Year's Did Not NO
Wow.....
If you grease the rod it won’t down either
"its quite long, so it takes a sec"
Thats what she said...
Hey, Cool maybe just maybe I'll be more successful here, many thanks 🙂
I HAVE A TRICK TOO..PUT SUM AXLE GREASE ON THE END OF THE ROD
Did not work on mine.
Mother of pear!
That doesn't work I tried it
I tried this it didn’t work
Did you put the engine at top dead center and have a bolt long enough?
@@MannyAguilarJr I got it eventually by holding the rod back with a sawsall blade. The issue I had is the bolt didn’t tough the rod, it was the right hole i triple checked, the bolt should of been long enough because it stopped turning before the head met the block, so it bottomed out somewhere. I’m not sure what the issue was with this trick
@@Dougie33 not all blocks are drilled all the way through
@@greatwhite8571 you are definitely right about that
Just use my finger
I used vaseline
Not surprised. Fine example of GMs infinite wisdom.