วีดีโอ

Great idea, this was exactlt what i needed😁

I have a 1966 C10 with a 283 and there is not a push rod bolt to be seen on my block. What can you do to hold push rod up when there is no bolt in the block such as what your video is showing?

Of course if you RTFM, you would know it is not a trick, it is part of the factory service procedure.

I HAVE A TRICK TOO..PUT SUM AXLE GREASE ON THE END OF THE ROD

I always used assembly lube on the shaft. It holds it in place just long enough to get the pump in position.

the SBC we're working on doesn't hold the rod.

is there a similar trick for a '64 pontiac GTO? Doesn't seem to have that bolt hole option.

Bro!! I've been working on Sbc for 25 years and I've never known this! So awesome! Lol... How can you now love TH-cam.

put on your big girl dress and go where ever they sell sewing stuff (walmart) and get a fabric tape measure.

Fantastic! My Dad always worked on the V8s when I was growing up and I never had one myself until the last 12 years. Today I am changing out the 40 year old pump on a 72 Jimmy, and I've been dreading this moment. Voila! Yours is the 1st video I picked! Thank you!! (I'll bet my Dad didn't even know this)

I put grease on the pushrod, holds it place just fine

Are you pushing the rod all the way up or how to know where it should be?? //Fredde

My sbc doesn’t have that bolt. My 83 yr old dad told me to put grease on the end of the rod and it’ll “glue” it in place and hold it while I install the fuel pump. Worked great with zero issue.

Have one that was a new crate motor and did not have the hole punched all the way through the block for the front bolt. Used the hacksaw trick and worked.

i was born in the late 50s the first car i ever bought was a 57 chevy for 150. 00 and drove it home those 2 bolts in the front were the motor mounts , so you took the top bolt out of your motor mount and used a longer one to hold the rod. but you had to be careful when working on a car to not put the wrong bolt in or you would lock up your fuel pump. and back then we could rebuild our starters generators and fuel pumps we just went down to the coast to coast or gambles hardware stores and got brushes and diaphragms and got things running again setting on the side of the road. so those where originally motor mount bolts. one other thing from those days we carried a hand pump and patches to repair our flats on the old bias ply tires the tube ones weren't so bad . but the tubeless ones you had to use the bumper jack to break the bead. so you either carried a block of wood or 2 jacks. aw the good old days.

Good job discussing the important points.

How high do you increase the rpm on your new advanced timing mark? Is it calculated by the beginning of the power band of the engine? Also, once you advance the timing at the beginning of the power band to reach the new "advanced timing mark " , is the "idle" timing considered mute? Thanks

Mother of god. You saved me so much time

Glad I found this video going to try this on 1950 style line

yea, I forgot about that I wonder if my 1983 6.2 diesel has that? Not all Chevy engines had that though. At least back in the 70s and 80s when I worked on older then 1980s engines.

I wish I knew this a week ago 😂 thank you though still saved my night

Hell yeah, I want more of these! I have liked and subscribe. Dave from Connecticut

Yes just did mine saved a lot of time and have to remember to put that bolt back in front or you will have an oil leak there .

You should have a bolt in the front of the block like you showed with a washer so without the washer it’s just long enough to touch the pump rod but when you’re done reinstall the washer so it’s always there and you don’t have go looking or worry about damaging your pump rod.

Here’s something I don’t know,what about if you bore all the block oil passages out and open drain back area’s and run a 7 qt pan and possibly even an oil cooler.do you think a hi volume/hi pressure pump with a 70 lb spring is good?

The only thing that can go wrong with a used one is the spring get weak,on a new one well quality control isn’t worth a damn any more but usually the clearances and debur ring and still check the pressure.i can’t believe what I see on You/Tube with people building first time motors and don’t even buy a book

my dad thought me this when i was 9 years old also get the engine to #1 cylinder on rotation so that push rod is in loose upward in the fuel pump slot. Just use a screw driver in the bolt hole why bother threading a longer bolt into it?

Oldie but a goodie

I used vaseline

My 350 fuel pump bolts are a different size than the ones on the block, won't work on my setup

Thanks for educating me

Thank you!

Does this work on dodge? I have a 1977 power wagon and the old fuel pump barely worked and had a lot of problems, but when the new one was put in, nothing at all. Doesn't even pull gas but you can see where the cam is hitting it. Im lost. Could the pump be bad, or am I just an idiot? I have a electric pump installed right now, but I don't like it because it uses more gas than required and also just doesn't work as well.

THANX FOR THE Tip. I guess I'm Subscriber 1,000!

Not surprised. Fine example of GMs infinite wisdom.

Did not work on mine.

40 Year's Did Not NO

WHERE WAS THIS ADVICE 40 YEARS AGO WHEN I STARTED WORKING ON CARS. THANK YOU FOR IT NOW, I NEED TO CHANGE WHAT IS HOPEFULLY THE LAST SBC FUEL PUMP I WILL NEED TO DO

Thank you!! Very informative video, you did a nice job of explaining timing.

Ur a life saver man even 3 years later

I don't see how your getting an accurate reading on the depth of the gears. A depth Mike is not that expensive. Also, I didn't see you drill ONE .. 1/8" HOLE in it's idler gear. This pressure feeds oil to the shaft it spins on !!! If you drilled 2 holes there'd be an internal leak, so just ONE. Be sure to do the exit port and main cap feed hole as well (I also chamfer it). Check alignment of oil passage to block to achieve better match. NOW...the pump is blueprinted. There's other stuff to do to cove..groove it. It's beyond scope here to show this. This eliminates chatter, which can cause Spark Scatter, as oil pump DRIVES your distributer. Source "Smokey Younicks power secrets . BILL Jenkins also outlines these procedures in his books.

I was taught to put a dab of grease on the rod to hold it in place but I'll have to try this

I took my fuel pump out and was thinking of how I was going to get it back in after I noticed the pushrod slide down. I watched your video along with several others and was relieved to learn this trick. This morning I went to reinstall the pump thinking this issue was resolved and saw that not only was the side bolts not there the block was never drilled and tapped. I thought I had an older 327 but ??? Any thoughts ?

The ‘58, 283 I’m working on either doesn’t have the bolt hole or the serpentine garbage the owner put on it is using the hole. Hopefully the assembly lube trick will work.

Great, I wish I knew that when I was younger I always used a hack Blade before. I knew anything about holding that up. I thought I invented it.

I just put some grease on the shaft and pushed it in. The grease holds shaft in place until you install the pump.

Hey, Cool maybe just maybe I'll be more successful here, many thanks 🙂

Im always amazed at how many sbc people dont know about this.

THATS THE BEST!!! Nice goin Rich!

Awesoke