See, this is how instructional videos should be. Quick, to the point, and all the relevant info included. Bolt and driver sizes, torque specs if needed, quick pointers on tricky components, and how it's supposed to be laid out at the different intervals along the process. Good work. If the rest of the videos are like this I'm sold. Subscribed.
Courtesy of viewer Donal Keegan Tools and parts needed: 1. timing belt and tensioner kit 2. water pump (if changing) 3. coolant (if changing water pump) 4. torque wrench 5. socket wrench 6.impact wrench (strongly recommended - you can buy a 240v corded one on eBay for about £50) 7. 10, 12, 14, 17 and 22mm sockets Procedure: 1. Jack RHS up and support on a stand 2. Remove wheel and the plastic panel in the arch (10mm bolts) 3. Remove top engine cover (4 x 10mm) 4. Put jack under engine with a wooden block to spread the weight 5. Pull up PS reservoir and move out of the way (a bungee is useful here); you can also remove the bracket to make even more room 6. Support engine with the jack and block and remove the engine mount bracket - 1 x 17, 3 x 14, 1 x12mm 7. Loosen the four 10mm bolts on the water pump pulley 8. Loosen the tension on the alternator 9. Loosen the 12mm tensioner bolt on the PS pulley (through the “eye”) 10. Loosen the 14mm and 12mm bolts on the AC pulley (this one is at the bottom and accessed from the side) 11.Loosen - but do not remove - the 22mm bolt on the crank pulley. An impact wrench is ideal for this. Loosening it with the belt on helps. If not using an impact driver you will need to hold the crank pulley (there are special tools for this). 12.Remove water pump pulley, ac belt and alternator belt 13.Remove top timing belt cover - four 10mm bolts 14.Rotate the engine clockwise using the crank pulley until red mark or notch is lined up with the hole in the camshaft pulley and b) the arrow or T on the crank pulley is lined up with the notch/marl on the crank case (this one is usually at about 2 o'clock) 15.Remove the crankshaft pulley bolt (22mm) 16.Remove the lower cover (five 10mm) 17.Loosen the RHS belt tensioner bolt - 12mm 18.Loosen but do not remove the LHS tensioner bolt 19.Pop the spring of the tensioner over the tab (this is important to avoid damaging the threads on the LHS bolt in step 20) 20.Now remove both tensioner bolts 21.Remove the idler - 14mm 22.Remove timing belt (Skip to step 28 if not replacing water pump) 23.Remove alternator bracket 24.Put a drain pan in place 25.Remove water pump bolts but keep them organized (e.g. as you remove them place them in the corresponding slots in the new pump) 26.Allow coolant to drain 27.Clean mating face of any corrosion etc and fit new pump 28.Install the new idler with the 14mm bolt at 40 ft/lbs 29.Make sure the timing marks line up (see step 14, however now that the crankshaft pulley is removed you will be lining up the dot on the sprocket with the mark/notch on the crankcase) 30.(Optional) Pull off the crank sprocket as it makes it easier to fit the new tensioner 31.Put the new tensioner in place and tighten up the LHS / spring bolt until it is a little more than finger tight - make sure that there is no play as this may result in damage to the threads in subsequent steps 32.Pry the spring over the tab 33.Tighten up the spring bolt a little more but not fully 34.Using a screwdriver to keep the tensioner pulled back to the left, insert the RHS bolt (12mm) and tighten up (again not fully - just enough to keep the tensioner in place) 35.Slide the crank sprocket back on if you removed it in step 30 36.Check the timing marks again (see steps 29 and 14) 37.Inspect the new belt and fit it carefully (you may need to clean all the sprockets first). It should be tight on the right and slack on the left. 38.Now loosen the RHS bolt of the tensioner so that it moves right and pushes against the belt. 39.Check the timing marks again 40.Tighten both tensioner bolts fully - RHS bolt first (I'm unsure what the exact torque is) 41.Refit the lower timing belt cover ( 5 x 10mm) 42.Refit the crankshaft pulley (don't forget the metal cover that goes on first) 43.Tighten up the crank pulley with the 22mm bolt to 108.5 ft/lbs 44.Rotate engine twice (using crank pulley) to verify that timing marks still line up 45.Fit new alternator and AC belts (reverse of steps 10, 9, 8, 7) 46.Refit engine mount bracket (reverse of step 6) 47.Refit PS reservoir (and bracket if you removed it) 48.Refit top engine cover 49.Refit wheel arch cover 50.Refit wheel, lower and torque up 51.Refill coolant (if you changed the water pump). 52.Start up engine and make sure everything is ok. (You will need to bleed air out of the system.)
I’m scared to do this. How sensitive is lining up the timing slots? I’m afraid I’m going to be staying at it wondering is this “spot on” then afraid to start it.
I agree i dont care how many turns it takes to take shit off just give me sizes how many and a pic or what it should be at and bam duplication achieved
I just did this yesterday. A few differences I would like to add just to help out anyone that might see it: - I was able to do the entire job without removing the motor mount (I wasn't thrilled with the idea of supporting the engine from the oil pan area, although it seems fairly sturdy on this car.). The only thing this made a pain was tightening the water pump bolts but I was able to do it with an offset wrench. - I tried your method of putting the belt on prior to applying tension to the spring but was not able to bend it over the bottom metal tang. I ended up doing it this way: 1. (Did all preliminary work as described in the video), replaced idler pulley, removed crankshaft sprocket temporarily 2. Put tensioner on via the spring bolt fairly loosely (enough to keep it on securely though), with the spring behind the tensioner pulley tang 3. Pried tensioner spring over the engine tang 4. Pushed the mounting bolt area up from the very bottom with a large screwdriver into the position where it would apply the least tension to the belt, then held it in this area and tightened the bolt until the pulley would not move 5. Put crankshaft sprocket back on 6. Put the timing belt on (route = crankshaft -> idler -> camshaft -> tensioner) 7. Released the mounting bolt so that tension would be applied, and then torqued the tensioner bolts to spec Again, as you said, there are other methods for the tensioner, and I found this one a little easier and safer from a damage risk perspective. Otherwise this is a great video and I used it as a reference to gauge the job difficulty. Thank you very much!
Wish I'd come back and read this before. I did something similar for the spring in the end. Removing the crank sprocket takes one actual second and saves one big headache.
Holy cow. I've watched plenty of this stuff and this is the speed and rate I want to get the info. I don't need five minutes on the different types of torque wrenches or how to hold the hood up... Great job!
I am sure others have said it but this is how TH-cam mechanics need to be quick simple and right to the point I am a Subaru mechanic but my uncle asked me if I would do a timing belt water pump for one of these and needed to see what to charge him so thank you keep it up you definitely deserve a follow
Thank you so much for this. I feel like I watched this a hundred times whilst doing the job. For any first-timers: Remove the spark plugs. Overcoming compression will be hard otherwise whilst rotating the engine and it might not be possible to achieve TDC. Regarding the spring, I spent ages trying to get it on as shown and in the end removed the belt entirely and slipped the cam sprocket off. Wound the bolt in a little bit more, wedged a screwdriver behind the lowest protrusion in the block casting (more like a line than the round nub), pried the spring towards the tang then when it was compressed enough to clear the tang, pushed on it with a second big flat head screwdriver to set it. This method took seconds and didn't feel like a fight at all. After that, mount the belt and pry the tensioner down to slip the belt over it last. For some reason I had to move the crank back from TDC a tiny tiny bit to get the belt on with the tension on the correct side. Otherwise it was either under by a tooth or wouldn't go on. After that I advanced it again to apply more pressure and tension and get the crack back at a precise TDC. Probably not the best idea but it worked. Anyone without air tools struggling with the crank pulley bolt: A trick I've used on Subaru engines before and I would imagine works here as well (CAUTION) is to remove the fuel pump relay, put a breaker bar on the bolt and have the end of the bar on the ground. Crank the engine as briefly as you can. Might go the first time or take a couple shots. On the flat four however the crank pulley is in the front of the bay so it can be done with tyres on so when the nose of the car inevitably hops up it doesn't land back onto jack stands. Il-advised? Yes. Does it work? Maybe.
The name of your channel perfectly describes your excellent video. I wish more TH-cam mechanics would just skip all the intros, talking and jokes just get to the point. Well done, sir.
I've done a bunch of these on various Asian cars. A little trick I've learned if you don't have a torque wrench or don't have a way to hold the engine still while you torque the front pulley bolt is make a paint mark on the bolt and on the pulley before you take it off. Then you can VERY CAREFULLY put it back on with a cordless impact gun lining up the two marks. A little blue Loctite on the pulley bolt helps. I just got through doing my '99 Accents timing belt for the third time this way. Don't go crazy with the impact gun and you should be fine.
Bro. I love you man lol. Straight to the point. I changed my timing belt using this video . only thing i learned is you dont need to get the motor mount off. The cover comes in 2 pieces. Also using the crank of the starter to take off the crankshaft bolt took me 5sec to get it out lol. Put it back in I went to autozone and bought a chain that had thos grip pliers on it 30$. Worked perfectly to hold the pulley while I tighten the bolt. Other than that it was all this video. Good job man I love this. Without using the starter to open the crankshaft bolt . I was trying it for 6 hours manual. Took me 5 second with the starter . but dont take my advice. Know what your doing before doing the starter trick. For anyone who wants to try that. #dangerous . Oh yeah it was a hyundai accent 2007
Great to hear you knocked it out and that the video was helpful! I appreciate you adding some helpful tips for others as well. I've used the starter motor technique in a couple other videos of mine but I usually steer clear of it since I don't want people getting hurt or damaging their starter. Definitely a good technique to know though!
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow hey. So I was reading more about it and it said oil messes up the belt? Holy fuk I hope not because I did it with greasy hands. Should I change it or can I clean it?
I'm overdue replacing my belt on my 1.6, yes this video helped tremendously. ... The spring tensioner had me stressing because I didn't quite understand the procedure, but awesome video regardless.
fabulous speaking voice,very confident and obviously a top shelf technician the best of the best.It's nice to have very intelligent auto technician,someone who knows what he is doing.Enjoyed the video and information!
Boom! Boom! to the point and go to the next item. Great video! If anyone needs a long lecture on this they can go to the Liberry and get any enyclopedia on this subject
Thank you brother. THIS is the video i was looking for. Not familiar with this car (yet) just needed to know some basics of what's where before i start crawling around under it. Last video started with the guy using an open end wrench to loosen the steering pump using another open end for a cheater bar. Again....thanks.
Thanks, I really appreciate the feedback. Looking back at the video, I suppose I rushed through it pretty quick. I'm glad to hear you found this helpful!
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow I used a variation on your method. Locked tension pulley in the unloaded position. Removed idler. Then the belt. Then replaced the tension idler and spring, locked in the unloaded position. Installed new belt then idler pulley. Released spring pressure to tension belt. I found it easy to replace the tension pulley without the belt in the way.
A quick tip on how to save a bit of time and frustration. When installing the two water pump pullies try putting a bit of super glue between ensuring the holes are lined up. It makes it easier to handle the two pullies in the tight space when trying to line up the 4 holes/bolts.
Gr8 job!! You bust it out .I luv it!! I learned to wrench from oldskool flat-rate mech ! & yes rotate engine couple times 👌it checks for valve bind too! I learned the hard way !
good job keeping it brief and covering torques, timing mark alignment etc. smart to buy timing belt kit plus I'll probably replace water pump/ antifreeze (autozone about $60 each) at same time. since our belt broke I can start it after this install to see if we gotta also take the head off. fingers crossed. THANKS!
Thanks for your comment. You got this no problem! Just give yourself the whole day in case you run into any issues. And you're going to feel like a million dollars when you accomplish it. Not a bad job at all especially once you tear in to it. Good luck and let me know how you make out
Yes. My question also. Girlfriend's 09 Accent, the belt broke on her and I'm wondering if after trying to start it repeatedly the lower half will be out of time. Isn't it a 50/50 shot or do I need to make sure it's on a intake or exhaust stroke.
Since rhe motor mount does not go through the loop of the timing belt (like it did on the Mitsubishi 1.5 engines), there is no need to touch the mount. It is not seriously in the way of anything, so just leave it alone and save yourself a lot of work.
Awesome video. Do you know if this is an interference engine or non-interference? I need to replace a timing belt that broke while driving.. Just wondering if we will have bent valves
informative and straight on i will do mine change on my getz 02 next week, have been fixing cars on my own for 35 years but sometimes you want some advise and informative videos like this THANX.
just finished my change with great result i put a piece of metal in the gap of tensioner between the adjustgap and the bolt after the belt is on i released the item and the belt was under pressure again big thanx!@@NoNonsenseKnowHow
i only have one question about the tensioner is the bolt on the right supposed to be tightened all way down so its firmly in that case what is the meaning of the spring it wont be moving anymore or is the spring only needed when installing new belt so it have the right pressure.@@NoNonsenseKnowHow
earlier in the video you said Line up top cam pully then on the crankshaft pully theres a Notch & a T,line them up ...... But at 3:11 in the video theres no mention of a T & I see no T anywhere on the C/S pully. Instead theres just 2 marks 1 on the pully & one on the block. But no T
Question! If the belt breaks/fails (teeth break off causing the cams not to rotate, can pistons hit the valves if the engine is turned over with the starter. My sisters car, while driving it quit, she tried to restart several times. Great informative and to the point!!
if the Pistons can hit the valves then it would be considered an interference engine. Without looking back at the video I honestly don't remember if this was an interference engine or not but if you Google it you should be able to find a quick answer
Great vid .Direct, to the point, nice tips, and great to include torque values as you go. Thanks so much. One question. As I dont have the owners manual with my second hand GETZ. What is the cam belt replacement frequency?. Thanks again
great vid buddy. One guy has a vid on this and it's hours long! It's like watching paint dry. Is the jacking the engine up just to get the mount off (for clearance), or does it help with removing/lining things up? Thanks for replying
A lot of timing belts I do you have to remove the mount otherwise the belt would not be able to be removed. But in either case, yes it helps out with clearance Big Time jacking the engine up. Thanks for your comment, and I hope the job goes smoothly
I just did my timing belt right after watching your video. It took me 2 hours to do just the belt. No idler or tensioner pulley. Ya I know...I'm a cheap bastard. You don't have to remove the front engine mount. My personal tip::: Remove the spark plugs so that the engine will be easier to turn when aligning an checking.
Great question. Yes you have to rotate it exactly two times or exactly four times. Odd numbers will not work. It's a 4-stroke engine, so the crankshaft must spin to complete Revolutions to complete a cycle and be back to the correct timing mark locations. Camshafts spin at half the speed of the crankshaft
Yeah, I hear you on that. Most of my videos are geared toward people that have done timing belt before and are just looking for an overview. I try to make them as fast paced as possible
I moved the crankshaft pulley off of the timing mark right before the installation of the new timing belt during timing belt repair. The question is how to put it back on its correct alignment? First, the camshaft is on its timing mark, just the crank is off. Should i rotate the crankshaft two rotation to line right back on the proper timing or one rotation is enough,or... ? Its a accent 2007 Thank you!
Honestly I'm having a hard time picturing your scenario based on the description. Just rotate the crankshaft until the lower timing marks line up, and rotate the camshaft until those timing marks line up. Then put the belt on
All said an done how long from start to finish minus recording? Just got my daughter the same car as her first car and waiting on new water pump and timing belt kit....great video will be on repeat a few times during install
Hello, great video. I have a 2010 Accent that needs the timing belt replaced. I live just outside the Philadelphia metro area. I'd like to get the job done at your shop by you. Is that possible? Thanks.
Thanks. Yeah that or I could do it on the side for a reasonable price. I have a garage at my house as well. What town are you near? Or what's your zip code
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow Yes, that is kind of far. I was hoping that you were northwest of Philly. Oh well, looks like I'll be contacting a local Hyundai dealer. Thanks anyway for getting back to me.
My car died while driving. Replaced the fuel pump, camshaft and crankshaft position sensors. I bet my t belt broke. Are these the steps to check for a broken belt, or is there another way? 2010 hyundai accent. 1.6 160,000 miles. Great video btw!
Usually you can hear if the timing belt is broken just by the way the engines cranking. It won't have a steady crank because only one or two of the cylinders may be getting compression. However the next way is popping the oil cap off and hopefully you can get a look at the camshaft to see if it's rotating when you have someone crank the engine over. Or set your camera there and crank it over by yourself. If you cantsee the camshaft then you can take the screws off on the top timing belt cover and be able to see if the belt is visibly broken or if it's rotating the camshaft when you crank over the engine. Good luck and thanks for the feedback on the video as well.
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow I sure appreciate you. I just popped a couple bolts off the cover and it seemed intact and i pushed a wire in there and it had tension. Maybe ECM. Many thanks for your those pointers to check.
Make sure you do the crank test. Sometimes the ribs on the Belt Shear off on the crankshaft pulley. In fact best is to check the timing marks and make sure it hasn't jumped time either
Otherwise, give it a spray of starting fluid in the intake and see if it starts. If it does then you have a fuel problem. Check for spark as well. Spark compression fuel timing. And no problem. Let me know how you make out. If you feel like supporting the channel, consider letting one of my latest videos play all the way through... even if it's just background noise. LOL
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow I can't see anything in the oil hole. I removed the camshaft pos. sensor and recorded it while cranking. No movement. I have subscribed and will support this channel. Im stuck without starter fluid til later on today.
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow for your information, yes it is. For those wanting to do this job on the ground, even though it makes it less annoying, you don't need to remove the front engine mount. The hardest part of the job is getting that stupid spring to agree with you. The easiest way I found was to remove the crank timing gear, place tensioner up in there with the adjust lock down bolt loosely in, tighten the spring, use a screwdriver to hook it on to the lower guide near timing gear, then force adjuster all the way to the top of it's adjustment (backed right off). Removing upper tensioner/guide pulley, slipping the belt on, reinstall guide pulley, then loosen off the two bolts on tensioner and let the spring do the rest of the work. Tighten tensioner and you're done (aside from reassembly of front of engine).
Thanks for letting me know and I appreciate the update. Yes I agree with you about that darn spring! They probably make a special tool for it. Glad to hear you knocked it out though
Wasted so much time…. You don’t have to take any of the accessories loose or remove the motor mount to do this job. Take off bottom pulley and water pump pulleys that’s it. U can spin them back on by hand later. Took me 2 hours
It depends if you go to a dealer or a street corner shop. And prices are going to vary dramatically based on your region. I'd say anywhere from $200 to $800
you didn't say if the crankshaft coil bolt is left hand thread or right hand thread, you did say the engine is right hand clockwise. what thread is the crankshaft bolt?
Well done! Thanks for taking the time to do this, It really helped! =) '02 Accent. 120K miles on timing belt and 180K on original clutch ((whew!)). This damn car better run for at least another 100K after all the new parts, clutch, belts and hoses I threw on her. =) Thanks again.
Tom Clark glad to hear the video helped out and, thank you for taking me time to leave me a comment! Much appreciated. I'm sure she'll be reliable for you since you gave her some Lovin!
I have my Gates timing belt & pulley already ............ But thanx to tons of every jkind of information, I cant decide whats the best waterpump to get, Alos I heard the pullys & bearings with the green are Good & the ones without are not cvery good. ,.,, Can anyone plz reccommend a good waterpump & pull bearings??? sure would be nice if Gates put outa Timing belt,+3 belts_water pump+new pullys all in one kit, would make it so much easier*
Yeah the dealer recommends 60k like you said. But anywhere in between 60k and 90k is acceptable. Each has lots of do with it as well. Like if you had a car that was 20 years old even if it only had fifteen thousand miles on it I think I would replace the belt
I just got it changed and it is making a winding noise when I press the gas? No noise when at ideal. Could the timing be off? It seems to get up and go still just almost like the belt is too tight. There is no way to adjust the timing belt tensioner as it is spring loaded. Could he have placed the timing belt too tight, or that impossible due to the spring tensioner? I replaced the pulley and tensioner as well. Or could it be the other belts?
See, this is how instructional videos should be. Quick, to the point, and all the relevant info included. Bolt and driver sizes, torque specs if needed, quick pointers on tricky components, and how it's supposed to be laid out at the different intervals along the process. Good work. If the rest of the videos are like this I'm sold. Subscribed.
Thanks for your comment and feedback. Really appreciate it! And thanks for the subscribe
I agree love how to the point he is
Courtesy of viewer Donal Keegan
Tools and parts needed:
1.
timing belt and tensioner kit
2.
water pump (if changing)
3.
coolant (if changing water pump)
4.
torque wrench
5.
socket wrench
6.impact wrench (strongly recommended - you can buy a 240v corded one on eBay for
about £50)
7. 10, 12, 14, 17 and 22mm sockets
Procedure:
1. Jack RHS up and support on a stand
2. Remove wheel and the plastic panel in the arch (10mm bolts)
3. Remove top engine cover (4 x 10mm)
4. Put jack under engine with a wooden block to spread the weight
5. Pull up PS reservoir and move out of the way (a bungee is useful here); you can also
remove the bracket to make even more room
6. Support engine with the jack and block and remove the engine mount bracket - 1 x 17,
3 x 14, 1 x12mm
7. Loosen the four 10mm bolts on the water pump pulley
8. Loosen the tension on the alternator
9. Loosen the 12mm tensioner bolt on the PS pulley (through the “eye”)
10. Loosen the 14mm and 12mm bolts on the AC pulley (this one is at the bottom and
accessed from the side)
11.Loosen - but do not remove - the 22mm bolt on the crank pulley. An impact wrench is
ideal for this. Loosening it with the belt on helps. If not using an impact driver you will
need to hold the crank pulley (there are special tools for this).
12.Remove water pump pulley, ac belt and alternator belt
13.Remove top timing belt cover - four 10mm bolts
14.Rotate the engine clockwise using the crank pulley until red mark or notch is lined up
with the hole in the camshaft pulley and b) the arrow or T on the crank pulley is lined
up with the notch/marl on the crank case (this one is usually at about 2 o'clock)
15.Remove the crankshaft pulley bolt (22mm)
16.Remove the lower cover (five 10mm)
17.Loosen the RHS belt tensioner bolt - 12mm
18.Loosen but do not remove the LHS tensioner bolt
19.Pop the spring of the tensioner over the tab (this is important to avoid damaging the
threads on the LHS bolt in step 20)
20.Now remove both tensioner bolts
21.Remove the idler - 14mm
22.Remove timing belt (Skip to step 28 if not replacing water pump)
23.Remove alternator bracket
24.Put a drain pan in place
25.Remove water pump bolts but keep them organized (e.g. as you remove them place
them in the corresponding slots in the new pump)
26.Allow coolant to drain
27.Clean mating face of any corrosion etc and fit new pump
28.Install the new idler with the 14mm bolt at 40 ft/lbs
29.Make sure the timing marks line up (see step 14, however now that the crankshaft
pulley is removed you will be lining up the dot on the sprocket with the mark/notch on
the crankcase)
30.(Optional) Pull off the crank sprocket as it makes it easier to fit the new tensioner
31.Put the new tensioner in place and tighten up the LHS / spring bolt until it is a little
more than finger tight - make sure that there is no play as this may result in damage to
the threads in subsequent steps
32.Pry the spring over the tab
33.Tighten up the spring bolt a little more but not fully
34.Using a screwdriver to keep the tensioner pulled back to the left, insert the RHS bolt
(12mm) and tighten up (again not fully - just enough to keep the tensioner in place)
35.Slide the crank sprocket back on if you removed it in step 30
36.Check the timing marks again (see steps 29 and 14)
37.Inspect the new belt and fit it carefully (you may need to clean all the sprockets first). It
should be tight on the right and slack on the left.
38.Now loosen the RHS bolt of the tensioner so that it moves right and pushes against the
belt.
39.Check the timing marks again
40.Tighten both tensioner bolts fully - RHS bolt first (I'm unsure what the exact torque is)
41.Refit the lower timing belt cover ( 5 x 10mm)
42.Refit the crankshaft pulley (don't forget the metal cover that goes on first)
43.Tighten up the crank pulley with the 22mm bolt to 108.5 ft/lbs
44.Rotate engine twice (using crank pulley) to verify that timing marks still line up
45.Fit new alternator and AC belts (reverse of steps 10, 9, 8, 7)
46.Refit engine mount bracket (reverse of step 6)
47.Refit PS reservoir (and bracket if you removed it)
48.Refit top engine cover
49.Refit wheel arch cover
50.Refit wheel, lower and torque up
51.Refill coolant (if you changed the water pump).
52.Start up engine and make sure everything is ok. (You will need to bleed air out of the
system.)
I’m scared to do this. How sensitive is lining up the timing slots? I’m afraid I’m going to be staying at it wondering is this “spot on” then afraid to start it.
Great video man. I hate watching a 45 min vid for something that takes 5 mins to explain.
I agree i dont care how many turns it takes to take shit off just give me sizes how many and a pic or what it should be at and bam duplication achieved
I wish every video was like this, straight to the point, no wasting time but still extremely detailed and informative. Good stuff
I just did this yesterday. A few differences I would like to add just to help out anyone that might see it:
- I was able to do the entire job without removing the motor mount (I wasn't thrilled with the idea of supporting the engine from the oil pan area, although it seems fairly sturdy on this car.). The only thing this made a pain was tightening the water pump bolts but I was able to do it with an offset wrench.
- I tried your method of putting the belt on prior to applying tension to the spring but was not able to bend it over the bottom metal tang. I ended up doing it this way:
1. (Did all preliminary work as described in the video), replaced idler pulley, removed crankshaft sprocket temporarily
2. Put tensioner on via the spring bolt fairly loosely (enough to keep it on securely though), with the spring behind the tensioner pulley tang
3. Pried tensioner spring over the engine tang
4. Pushed the mounting bolt area up from the very bottom with a large screwdriver into the position where it would apply the least tension to the belt, then held it in this area and tightened the bolt until the pulley would not move
5. Put crankshaft sprocket back on
6. Put the timing belt on (route = crankshaft -> idler -> camshaft -> tensioner)
7. Released the mounting bolt so that tension would be applied, and then torqued the tensioner bolts to spec
Again, as you said, there are other methods for the tensioner, and I found this one a little easier and safer from a damage risk perspective. Otherwise this is a great video and I used it as a reference to gauge the job difficulty. Thank you very much!
Thanks, really appreciate you adding some valuable info for others!
Wish I'd come back and read this before. I did something similar for the spring in the end. Removing the crank sprocket takes one actual second and saves one big headache.
Holy cow. I've watched plenty of this stuff and this is the speed and rate I want to get the info. I don't need five minutes on the different types of torque wrenches or how to hold the hood up... Great job!
I am sure others have said it but this is how TH-cam mechanics need to be quick simple and right to the point I am a Subaru mechanic but my uncle asked me if I would do a timing belt water pump for one of these and needed to see what to charge him so thank you keep it up you definitely deserve a follow
Thank you so much for this. I feel like I watched this a hundred times whilst doing the job.
For any first-timers: Remove the spark plugs. Overcoming compression will be hard otherwise whilst rotating the engine and it might not be possible to achieve TDC.
Regarding the spring, I spent ages trying to get it on as shown and in the end removed the belt entirely and slipped the cam sprocket off. Wound the bolt in a little bit more, wedged a screwdriver behind the lowest protrusion in the block casting (more like a line than the round nub), pried the spring towards the tang then when it was compressed enough to clear the tang, pushed on it with a second big flat head screwdriver to set it. This method took seconds and didn't feel like a fight at all. After that, mount the belt and pry the tensioner down to slip the belt over it last.
For some reason I had to move the crank back from TDC a tiny tiny bit to get the belt on with the tension on the correct side. Otherwise it was either under by a tooth or wouldn't go on. After that I advanced it again to apply more pressure and tension and get the crack back at a precise TDC. Probably not the best idea but it worked.
Anyone without air tools struggling with the crank pulley bolt: A trick I've used on Subaru engines before and I would imagine works here as well (CAUTION) is to remove the fuel pump relay, put a breaker bar on the bolt and have the end of the bar on the ground. Crank the engine as briefly as you can. Might go the first time or take a couple shots. On the flat four however the crank pulley is in the front of the bay so it can be done with tyres on so when the nose of the car inevitably hops up it doesn't land back onto jack stands. Il-advised? Yes. Does it work? Maybe.
The name of your channel perfectly describes your excellent video. I wish more TH-cam mechanics would just skip all the intros, talking and jokes just get to the point. Well done, sir.
Best description of tools, order, size of bolts. Wow! Bravo bro. Well done. Thank you
No problem! Glad you found the video helpful
I've done a bunch of these on various Asian cars. A little trick I've learned if you don't have a torque wrench or don't have a way to hold the engine still while you torque the front pulley bolt is make a paint mark on the bolt and on the pulley before you take it off. Then you can VERY CAREFULLY put it back on with a cordless impact gun lining up the two marks. A little blue Loctite on the pulley bolt helps. I just got through doing my '99 Accents timing belt for the third time this way. Don't go crazy with the impact gun and you should be fine.
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@@randydavis9816 I'm willing to bet Randy has a cat.
Bro. I love you man lol. Straight to the point. I changed my timing belt using this video . only thing i learned is you dont need to get the motor mount off. The cover comes in 2 pieces. Also using the crank of the starter to take off the crankshaft bolt took me 5sec to get it out lol. Put it back in I went to autozone and bought a chain that had thos grip pliers on it 30$. Worked perfectly to hold the pulley while I tighten the bolt. Other than that it was all this video. Good job man I love this. Without using the starter to open the crankshaft bolt . I was trying it for 6 hours manual. Took me 5 second with the starter . but dont take my advice. Know what your doing before doing the starter trick. For anyone who wants to try that. #dangerous . Oh yeah it was a hyundai accent 2007
Great to hear you knocked it out and that the video was helpful! I appreciate you adding some helpful tips for others as well. I've used the starter motor technique in a couple other videos of mine but I usually steer clear of it since I don't want people getting hurt or damaging their starter. Definitely a good technique to know though!
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow indeed the truth. Keep up the great work. I'm new subscriber definetly
Awesome man thanks I appreciate that
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow hey. So I was reading more about it and it said oil messes up the belt? Holy fuk I hope not because I did it with greasy hands. Should I change it or can I clean it?
I'm overdue replacing my belt on my 1.6, yes this video helped tremendously. ... The spring tensioner had me stressing because I didn't quite understand the procedure, but awesome video regardless.
Thanks!
Thanks man!
I have done these before, but a couple years back. I needed a quick tutorial. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
You Rick man! So refreshing to have a short and information ritch video.
Now I know why it so expensive to replace this belt. Great video.
fabulous speaking voice,very confident and obviously a top shelf technician the best of the best.It's nice to have very intelligent auto technician,someone who knows what he is doing.Enjoyed the video and information!
Thanks, I appreciate the kind words.
Best tutorial ever. Straight to the point no BS
Boom! Boom! to the point and go to the next item. Great video! If anyone needs a long lecture on this they can go to the Liberry and get any enyclopedia on this subject
Amazing concise tutorial! Maybe the best I've seen on all of TH-cam. Thanks!
Thanks Bobby I appreciate your feedback!
Thank you brother. THIS is the video i was looking for. Not familiar with this car (yet) just needed to know some basics of what's where before i start crawling around under it. Last video started with the guy using an open end wrench to loosen the steering pump using another open end for a cheater bar. Again....thanks.
This is a fantastic video! I am going to tackle all belts on my sons 2010 Hyundai Accent! This is exactly what I needed to see. Thanks so much!!
Thanks Aaron. Good luck on the job!
NoNonsenseKnowHow I am attempting this weekend. Thanks for the awesome video!!
@@ChevroletTough no problem!
I got it all done. All new belts too. Thanks so much, this was VERY helpful. Not a hard job at all!!
@@ChevroletTough that's what's up man! Congrats on Conquering the job yourself!
Brilliant presentation.
All the relevant information and the correct steps.
Tips on sequence of events.
“I’ll be back”
Thanks, I really appreciate the feedback. Looking back at the video, I suppose I rushed through it pretty quick. I'm glad to hear you found this helpful!
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow I used a variation on your method.
Locked tension pulley in the unloaded position.
Removed idler.
Then the belt.
Then replaced the tension idler and spring, locked in the unloaded position.
Installed new belt then idler pulley.
Released spring pressure to tension belt.
I found it easy to replace the tension pulley without the belt in the way.
Straight to the point 🔥🔥🔥
Didn't see the need to take off the motor mount and jack it up, that 2 piece pully was a little tricky , thanks for the video.
This helps immensely! You’re so informative thank you so so much!
A quick tip on how to save a bit of time and frustration. When installing the two water pump pullies try putting a bit of super glue between ensuring the holes are lined up. It makes it easier to handle the two pullies in the tight space when trying to line up the 4 holes/bolts.
Good tip
That's the way to a You Tube tutorial..... all the information straight down the line.
Gr8 job!! You bust it out .I luv it!! I learned to wrench from oldskool flat-rate mech ! & yes rotate engine couple times 👌it checks for valve bind too! I learned the hard way !
Love how to the point this is. No nonsense is right!
Here, U dropped something Sir. 👑
LOL, thanks I appreciate that
good job keeping it brief and covering torques, timing mark alignment etc. smart to buy timing belt kit plus I'll probably replace water pump/ antifreeze (autozone about $60 each) at same time. since our belt broke I can start it after this install to see if we gotta also take the head off. fingers crossed. THANKS!
Kevin O'Brien thanks for your comment and im glad the video helped out!
Best video of this yet
Great video! To the point, all the specs, helpful hints. Not sure if I can tackle this by my self, but keeping this on my favorites list! Thank you!
Thanks for your comment. You got this no problem! Just give yourself the whole day in case you run into any issues. And you're going to feel like a million dollars when you accomplish it. Not a bad job at all especially once you tear in to it. Good luck and let me know how you make out
that was very good straight to the point,why no new water pump being so close i think
Duuuude. Thank you so much! Wasted 2 hours before with others doing it other ways
Just what I needed on my 2011 Accent today! Thanks. Subscribed
Awesome and thank you very much!
What do you do if the timing belt tore , do you just do the same thing? Do you need to do any other steps?
Yes. My question also. Girlfriend's 09 Accent, the belt broke on her and I'm wondering if after trying to start it repeatedly the lower half will be out of time. Isn't it a 50/50 shot or do I need to make sure it's on a intake or exhaust stroke.
Great Video! Camera Work is awesome & information straight forward! Thank You.
Looks good only question Once you are TDC and Crank and Exhaust Cam is set how do you Set the Intake Cam with the chain on the other end of Cam Gears
Since rhe motor mount does not go through the loop of the timing belt (like it did on the Mitsubishi 1.5 engines), there is no need to touch the mount. It is not seriously in the way of anything, so just leave it alone and save yourself a lot of work.
Great video man quick and to the point with all the nessissary steps on video
Thanks Valkyire
Thanks dude! Made my life a breeze with this video.
good job nice video no b.s. straight to the point and very informative.
Awesome video. Do you know if this is an interference engine or non-interference?
I need to replace a timing belt that broke while driving.. Just wondering if we will have bent valves
Thanks man. Honestly I don't remember off hand if these are interference or not. If you do a quick Google search you should be able to find out though
How did you make out with your engine? Bent valves? My mothers belt just let go on her 2010 while driving. Debating what to do.
All Hyundai engines are interference engines unfortunately
Your video helped more than you know!! THANK YOU!!!!
Marci Garrett glad to help out! And thank you for your feedback!
Great video! Incredibly helpful and concise.
Thanks buddy I appreciate the feedback!
Excellent vid bro, straight 2 the point
informative and straight on i will do mine change on my getz 02 next week, have been fixing cars on my own for 35 years but sometimes you want some advise and informative videos like this THANX.
Awesome, and thanks for your comment! Definitely keeps me motivated to continue producing some content
just finished my change with great result i put a piece of metal in the gap of tensioner between the adjustgap and the bolt after the belt is on i released the item and the belt was under pressure again big thanx!@@NoNonsenseKnowHow
@@123raggaren awesome, good to hear! No problem and thanks for the update.
i only have one question about the tensioner is the bolt on the right supposed to be tightened all way down so its firmly in that case what is the meaning of the spring it wont be moving anymore or is the spring only needed when installing new belt so it have the right pressure.@@NoNonsenseKnowHow
@@123raggaren yes the spring is just there to set the right tension. And then you tighten the bolt all the way down
It looked like the water pump may have been leaking, as there was a lot of rust in the area and on the belt. Thanks.
When tightening the water pump screws, gently raise the motor with the jack until the water motor is easily accessible, makes things easier
Nice vid my only question is how does one tighten the pulleys to spec without them rotating? Or does it not move at all when tightening? Thanks!
How do you rotate the engine 2 turns? Awesome video.... Belt just arived, doing it this weekend.
Thread the crank bolt back in and you can use that. And thanks man. Good luck on the job!
earlier in the video you said Line up top cam pully then on the crankshaft pully theres a Notch & a T,line them up ...... But at 3:11 in the video theres no mention of a T & I see no T anywhere on the C/S pully. Instead theres just 2 marks 1 on the pully & one on the block. But no T
Great overview. Tks so much
Question! If the belt breaks/fails (teeth break off causing the cams not to rotate, can pistons hit the valves if the engine is turned over with the starter. My sisters car, while driving it quit, she tried to restart several times. Great informative and to the point!!
if the Pistons can hit the valves then it would be considered an interference engine. Without looking back at the video I honestly don't remember if this was an interference engine or not but if you Google it you should be able to find a quick answer
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow For anyone wondering: Yes, it's an interference engine.
Great vid .Direct, to the point, nice tips, and great to include torque values as you go. Thanks so much.
One question. As I dont have the owners manual with my second hand GETZ. What is the cam belt replacement frequency?. Thanks again
I believe it's due every 60,000 miles. But I've seen most people replace him around 90,000
Hey man, excellent video, is it even worth trying if the belt has broken or are the valves 100% for sure bent?
Thanks. Yes 100% worth it to throw a belt on there and try it. Usually it's fine. I rarely see engines Bend valves with a broken timing belt
Congrats brother. Outstanding video with no b.s. I'm assuming you're pushing 140+ IQ keep up the great work
LOL, I don't know about that especially with all the drinking and partying but I appreciate your encouraging words. Thanks!
great vid buddy. One guy has a vid on this and it's hours long! It's like watching paint dry. Is the jacking the engine up just to get the mount off (for clearance), or does it help with removing/lining things up? Thanks for replying
A lot of timing belts I do you have to remove the mount otherwise the belt would not be able to be removed. But in either case, yes it helps out with clearance Big Time jacking the engine up. Thanks for your comment, and I hope the job goes smoothly
Really helpful video. Very well done.
That's great to hear. And thanks for the feedback
Great video. Fast and to the point.
I just did my timing belt right after watching your video. It took me 2 hours to do just the belt. No idler or tensioner pulley. Ya I know...I'm a cheap bastard.
You don't have to remove the front engine mount.
My personal tip::: Remove the spark plugs so that the engine will be easier to turn when aligning an checking.
This was very helpful and to the point,
Thank you!
No problem
How often do you usually put in a new water pump when you got it all apart. I passed at 100,000 but put one on at 208,000 lol.
It's never a bad idea to throw one on while you're in there. If time and money allows
When you double check your timing marks, does it matter if you rotate the engine twice or three times? Sorry for the stupid question.
Great question. Yes you have to rotate it exactly two times or exactly four times. Odd numbers will not work. It's a 4-stroke engine, so the crankshaft must spin to complete Revolutions to complete a cycle and be back to the correct timing mark locations. Camshafts spin at half the speed of the crankshaft
I hope that helps. Sorry, I just saw your comment now
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow For some of us new guy's, that's useful information, thanks.
Yeah, I hear you on that. Most of my videos are geared toward people that have done timing belt before and are just looking for an overview. I try to make them as fast paced as possible
So someone suggested to help hold the belt with the tensioner installation was to use a bobby pin to help hold it in place for yah
I moved the crankshaft pulley off of the timing mark right before the installation of the new timing belt during timing belt repair.
The question is how to put it back on its correct alignment?
First, the camshaft is on its timing mark, just the crank is off.
Should i rotate the crankshaft two rotation to line right back on the proper timing or one rotation is enough,or... ?
Its a accent 2007
Thank you!
Honestly I'm having a hard time picturing your scenario based on the description. Just rotate the crankshaft until the lower timing marks line up, and rotate the camshaft until those timing marks line up. Then put the belt on
Thank you,
holy shit thanks
you even mentioned the torque spec for the crank shaft
No prob man! Glad to help out
All said an done how long from start to finish minus recording? Just got my daughter the same car as her first car and waiting on new water pump and timing belt kit....great video will be on repeat a few times during install
These usually take me around two hours depending on any complications I run into. Thanks, and good luck on the job! Let me know how you make out.
Sick dude baller video right to it!!
Good video tho very accurate. Straight to the point. Thanks
Thanks Sean, I appreciate the feedback
The spring tensioner bolt you say don't loosen while it's tension bc it can strip, yet we still have to tighten under tension
I'm talking about if you leave tension on it, and you take the boat out slowly, it may have a tendency to rip out the last thread on its way out
If you buy a new belt do you need a new tensioner too?
doesnt need, but should be replaced as well
I just did mine. Before watching this I suggest if you have a spare 10 mm bolt to cut the head off and use it put the water pump pulley back together.
Excllent. Good work
Thanks
Thanks Man, helped me a lot.
When ya did the timing belt, how many kms was on it?
Honestly I don't remember off hand. It's due at 60,000 miles according to Hyundai.
Hello, great video. I have a 2010 Accent that needs the timing belt replaced. I live just outside the Philadelphia metro area. I'd like to get the job done at your shop by you. Is that possible? Thanks.
Thanks. Yeah that or I could do it on the side for a reasonable price. I have a garage at my house as well. What town are you near? Or what's your zip code
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow I live about 15 minutes north of Reading in Berks county. What town or area are you in?
@@davelance8692 I'm in 19067. Unfortunately that sounds like you're a little bit too far away for it to be worth it
@@davelance8692 I appreciate your comment and reaching out to me though in either case
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow Yes, that is kind of far. I was hoping that you were northwest of Philly. Oh well, looks like I'll be contacting a local Hyundai dealer. Thanks anyway for getting back to me.
My car died while driving. Replaced the fuel pump, camshaft and crankshaft position sensors. I bet my t belt broke. Are these the steps to check for a broken belt, or is there another way? 2010 hyundai accent. 1.6 160,000 miles. Great video btw!
Usually you can hear if the timing belt is broken just by the way the engines cranking. It won't have a steady crank because only one or two of the cylinders may be getting compression. However the next way is popping the oil cap off and hopefully you can get a look at the camshaft to see if it's rotating when you have someone crank the engine over. Or set your camera there and crank it over by yourself. If you cantsee the camshaft then you can take the screws off on the top timing belt cover and be able to see if the belt is visibly broken or if it's rotating the camshaft when you crank over the engine. Good luck and thanks for the feedback on the video as well.
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow I sure appreciate you. I just popped a couple bolts off the cover and it seemed intact and i pushed a wire in there and it had tension. Maybe ECM. Many thanks for your those pointers to check.
Make sure you do the crank test. Sometimes the ribs on the Belt Shear off on the crankshaft pulley. In fact best is to check the timing marks and make sure it hasn't jumped time either
Otherwise, give it a spray of starting fluid in the intake and see if it starts. If it does then you have a fuel problem. Check for spark as well. Spark compression fuel timing. And no problem. Let me know how you make out. If you feel like supporting the channel, consider letting one of my latest videos play all the way through... even if it's just background noise. LOL
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow I can't see anything in the oil hole. I removed the camshaft pos. sensor and recorded it while cranking. No movement. I have subscribed and will support this channel. Im stuck without starter fluid til later on today.
This is the same engine the 2008 Getz used, isn't it?
I'm not sure off hand
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow for your information, yes it is. For those wanting to do this job on the ground, even though it makes it less annoying, you don't need to remove the front engine mount. The hardest part of the job is getting that stupid spring to agree with you. The easiest way I found was to remove the crank timing gear, place tensioner up in there with the adjust lock down bolt loosely in, tighten the spring, use a screwdriver to hook it on to the lower guide near timing gear, then force adjuster all the way to the top of it's adjustment (backed right off). Removing upper tensioner/guide pulley, slipping the belt on, reinstall guide pulley, then loosen off the two bolts on tensioner and let the spring do the rest of the work. Tighten tensioner and you're done (aside from reassembly of front of engine).
Thanks for letting me know and I appreciate the update. Yes I agree with you about that darn spring! They probably make a special tool for it. Glad to hear you knocked it out though
Wasted so much time…. You don’t have to take any of the accessories loose or remove the motor mount to do this job. Take off bottom pulley and water pump pulleys that’s it. U can spin them back on by hand later. Took me 2 hours
Approximately how much would a shop charge for this? Thank you
It depends if you go to a dealer or a street corner shop. And prices are going to vary dramatically based on your region. I'd say anywhere from $200 to $800
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow Thank you
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow they all should charge per hour + parts, how much time you spend on this t-belt
It doesn't go by how long it took you. It goes by book time in the automotive industry. At least at any shop I know of
you didn't say if the crankshaft coil bolt is left hand thread or right hand thread, you did say the engine is right hand clockwise.
what thread is the crankshaft bolt?
The crankshaft bolt is standard threads
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow I know that now, right thread!!!!
Great video. Thanks
Well done! Thanks for taking the time to do this, It really helped! =) '02 Accent. 120K miles on timing belt and 180K on original clutch ((whew!)). This damn car better run for at least another 100K after all the new parts, clutch, belts and hoses I threw on her. =) Thanks again.
Tom Clark glad to hear the video helped out and, thank you for taking me time to leave me a comment! Much appreciated. I'm sure she'll be reliable for you since you gave her some Lovin!
F'in rad! Quick, but that's what pausing and backing up is for.
I have my Gates timing belt & pulley already ............ But thanx to tons of every jkind of information, I cant decide whats the best waterpump to get, Alos I heard the pullys & bearings with the green are Good & the ones without are not cvery good. ,.,, Can anyone plz reccommend a good waterpump & pull bearings??? sure would be nice if Gates put outa Timing belt,+3 belts_water pump+new pullys all in one kit, would make it so much easier*
Nice video but you do not have to pull the motor mount in this car as the cover comes out in 2 pieces
Well it gives u room to see and makes it easier too.
When should I replace my timing belt? The Hyundai site says 90K. My Hyundai dealer says 60K. I have a 2010 Elantra with 72,300 miles.
Yeah the dealer recommends 60k like you said. But anywhere in between 60k and 90k is acceptable. Each has lots of do with it as well. Like if you had a car that was 20 years old even if it only had fifteen thousand miles on it I think I would replace the belt
thanks for review helpful.
one thing i would do is either loosen or remove the spark plugs so rotating the engine to line up the timing marks is easier to do
Nice video brother
Thanks man
I just got it changed and it is making a winding noise when I press the gas? No noise when at ideal. Could the timing be off? It seems to get up and go still just almost like the belt is too tight. There is no way to adjust the timing belt tensioner as it is spring loaded. Could he have placed the timing belt too tight, or that impossible due to the spring tensioner? I replaced the pulley and tensioner as well. Or could it be the other belts?
Your tensioner trick only strips those threads on the end
good video bro. great idea talking about the torque specs. too bad you cant have someone else film while you work.
adams small engine garage Thanks! I try to keep things short and basic. And since im at work i dont like to let filming take up too much time.
yeah gotta keep that flatrate time down, this was perfect for me i just wanted a preview before ripping and tearing on the girls car.
Perfect video.
पेट्रोल गाड़ी में किस तरह से टाइमिंग चेंज करते हैं
^^^What he said. =)
well done thank you...