You & Joe did a great job removing the mylar. Unfortunately I bought into the freeze spray craze around 2008, and completely trashed my Eight Ball Deluxe playfield. The only option back then was an overlay from Herb Silvers at Fabulous Fantasies. Thanks for the great video Ronnie!!
Thought you said never to remove mylar🤣 Great videos. You are a true pinball wizard! Williams and Bally and Stern and Gottlieb would be proud of you revitalizing their games for generations to come 😃
If you have a scrap table with mylar on it, you can try n-Heptane to remove the goo left behind from the mylar. n-Heptane works miracles when removing stickers and is considerably better (and safer) than Goo Gone. If you're careful, you can even use it to remove stickers off of labels on cartridge games, and obviously, I know you guys sell those too. To be clear, I'm not saying this will help removing the mylar. In fact, slowly using an eye dropper, or q-tip doused in n-Heptane and rubbing it under the mylar sticker might help preserve the paint. I've not worked with pinball machines, but n-Heptane works to break down the molecular bond of the rubber-cement based glues without damaging most other surfaces (including paper.) This is why I suggest experimenting with a spare. I doubt it will damage the paint, but I can't guarantee. I'm not saying you didn't do your best, or "I have a better way", but hey, if you've never tried it, it's worth testing a new technique. I've pulled a lot of stickers off of delicate paper objects using it, and I assume it'd work the same in a situation like this.
When the going gets tough, the tough bring in Joey :P I'm not even going to tell you how to remove mylar, because you know significantly more about it than me, but all I can say is, brave brave person you are, I mean, it had to be done, but if this was mine and it was in my house for my personal use, I def would not have touched it without 20yrs of research first.
I love the 70's funk music. A lot of the cleaned up stuff looks a millions times better. It hurt my feelings to see that middle piece lose the paint. Matching that paint seems like it would be a nightmare.
Don't listen to those peeps! Love your teaching style so please keep repeating! Learned so much and only remember most because of that. Keep on brother!!👍
I’ve had good results with the canned air freeze method on these older games. Use white flour and 91% isopropyl alcohol on the adhesive left behind. Let it set and soak for 20-30 sec. and start to roll the adhesive off with your fingers. Very minimal paint loss.
Ron. As much as it hurts me to see a playfield get this bad we all know a guy (Hint hint) that can make a jem out of junk. Lets go my friend. Can't save em all but we can try. Ever get an early model GNR Machine I got dibs on it.
I reckon you got away with pretty good overall. The center area was always gonna be a problem, as there was just too much wear there before the Mylar was added. As you say it’s like putting down gaffe tape and then pulling it off. The center area is a bit of a challenge but I think for up for it Ronnie. …Go your hardest. My prediction is: it’s gonna look great!
watched enough of these. knowing what i know, it's not beyond Ron's abilities, to bring these complex amusements back to life. but this one looks a bit more of a challenge than usual. neato back glass, from before all of the modern thoughts.
Before I watch, but the Mylar situation got me thinking: "Billy. You know something, what is it? -I'm scared Poncho. Bull**** you ain't afraid of no man. -There's something out there hunting us, and it ain't no man."
just a thought acetone to get the glue off ,or have the play field image printed on paper or similar and overlay the play field I have done the reprint image for old alarm clocks . Anyway great videos and great work you all do.
Got a question for you Joe. 18:04 top right corner, why did they make that large hole for just a little bulb? Its on nearly all the machines pre 1980, Bally, Williams and Gottlieb all had it
It may have had to do with hanging the things up while you paint it. So it may have been for a fixture in the factory, that's my guess. On later machines they usually used it to run wiring for mechs on top of the playfield down to the bottom....
Per hour labor, that cost a lot! My druthers would be to get the CPR repro playfield for $750 (yes, lots of hours to change) and be left with a perfect playfield to match that titillatingly perfect backglass!! Great stuff btw. Enjoy your vids and wait for the next one always.
Well, there's a bit of a problem with that. CPR is out of stock of the repro playfield, and I have no idea when their next production run will be. Also, it's $850 now.
Plus $60 shipping... the hours it would take to swap over all the parts to the new playfield far exceed the hours it takes to clean and paint this one, so you've got to draw the line somewhere unfortunately. I do this as a business, if I put new playfields in everything I would have already been out of business long ago
This was a well played game. Lots of hours Is there any counter that keeps track of number of credits ? Like a mechanical counter or a digital counter in the menu ?
The paint looks very 70s. I would try to repaint the whole playfield or buy a new layover for the entire playfield. It was well played and it stands that you should spend the money for a new playfield and seal it with triple thick or something else to safeguard it.
@@sprinter768 That's assuming that an overlay for this particular machine is even available... I checked, and there _is_ one, but it's been out of stock for years. With such small production runs, it could be several years before Classic Playfield Reproductions (CPR) does another production run. On top of that, even if it WAS in stock, it's $850 plus S&H. Now, consider this: Strikes and Spares was a pretty common machine. More than 12,000 were built. They're worth about $1600 in mint condition. So you're suggesting they should spend $900 (plus however much they've already spent) on a machine that probably won't sell for more than $1600? That's not going to happen, because there goes ALL their profit.
@@SpearM3064 Well, damn. I can see why they'll fix it now. Those reproductions are too expensive. More people should be involved in the making of reproductions business so that competition would drive down prices. Seems like they would still be making a handsome profit.
Joe; come on now Joe. Really Joe. It"s not midnight and you haven"t had 5 beers. You said EIGHT ball. That"s a big old black bowling ball. Oh Joe look it"s got three holes. 2x, 3x. and 5x. I love man. Pinball name: Mac Attack Robot name: Mentor Mac Real name: Thomas (just give me a crabcake) McCubbin. Amen
I would have used heat to get it off, but I would have used air tool cleaner to remove the remaining glue residue. One downside of air tool cleaner is that it's very flammable.
JOE, What types of freezes would you use to remove the Mylar? Have you ever used "floating Mylar"? because I haven't seen you use floating mylar in your videos
I just used any compressed air can sold at Walmart. See my comment/video I just posted. The previous owner did the same and placed mylar over untouched paint
Yes, compressed air/ keyboard duster.. whatever you want call it. Don’t shake the can. Flip the can upside down and the air will be frozen out of the nozzle. Start on one end to get the Mylar started. X-acto knife can help to carefully lift Mylar. Once the Mylar freezes, it will start to release quickly. Use some care as you go and you’ll get minimal paint loss.. if any. The adhesive will be left behind on the playfield. I use 91% isopropyl alcohol and a bit of regular white flour. Spread a little bit of flour on the adhesive, the flour will stick to it. Then apply a bit of alcohol in the flour/adhesive. Let it set for 20-30 seconds or so. Use your fingers to roll the adhesive off. It takes a bit of time to get a sweet spot on the process, but it’ll take it off and damage will be at a minimum. This way is better than using a heat gun.. believe me.
@@webbfaze124 This is what I thought is freezing is better than using a heat gun right? because the heat gun will peel off the paint compared to freezing it won't peel off the paint? The white flour is the same white flour you use for cooking right?
@wayne Gram yes on the cooking flour... I'm actually doing that as well but adhesive is fairly on thick. I wore gloves and a cheap respirator mask (both from harbor freight), because breathing in the compressed air plus the awful residue taste on lips is an annoyance. Definitely want to make sure the mylar is cold, and will simply snap off the playfield easily. If you have to pull, its not cold enough
@@Roadsurfer2k11 Doesn't Harbor Freight have a compressed Air that has a dial to use a certain temperature to freeze the mylar cold? because flipping a dust air can upside down using it to freeze the mylar will take a lot of dust air cans for the whole playfield thick mylar
That looked like goo gone and a magic eraser pad. The pads are slightly abrasive so beware of that, it will pull old paint up too. I have really bad glue to remove and even using the flour/ipa/microfiber cloth trick to try and remove it
@@Roadsurfer2k11 Yes, I was actually referring to the stuff that is blue. Looks similiar to glass cleaner, right at the beginning of the cleaning he sprays it on the playfield.
@PinFixin ahhh I missed it.. it's Windex. I managed to get a clear pic at 9:58 stopped when bottle was visible Some people use Naptha but it's hard to find in store, amazon has it. Basically 100% alcohol so it evaps fast. I've used what I could get from the store which is 91% alcohol. The thing is not to so much water or chemical based products on wood that's exposed or it'll plank.
13:48 I saw what you did on the first one you weren't paying attention and cooked it and the paint. You did a really good job on the other two after learning from your first mistake. Live and learn is the best teacher. Don't forget the credit card trick for the straight lines
@@LyonsArcade been there done that my first tour in the Navy I worked on helicopter towed minesweeping gear that anti-erosion tape on the leading edges and when it gets worn it had to be replaced. It only took a couple of times of repainting hydrofoils before I figured it out.
![[TH] 2024 PMSL SEA W2D3 | Fall | ถ้าเล่นไม่ดี ไปแก้ตัววันเสาร์](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/CTmci32hvP8/mqdefault.jpg)
The trippiest part of the cleaning montage is that you left the power on. Only masters work with such confidence.
You & Joe did a great job removing the mylar. Unfortunately I bought into the freeze spray craze around 2008, and completely trashed my Eight Ball Deluxe playfield. The only option back then was an overlay from Herb Silvers at Fabulous Fantasies. Thanks for the great video Ronnie!!
Thought you said never to remove mylar🤣 Great videos. You are a true pinball wizard! Williams and Bally and Stern and Gottlieb would be proud of you revitalizing their games for generations to come 😃
If you have a scrap table with mylar on it, you can try n-Heptane to remove the goo left behind from the mylar. n-Heptane works miracles when removing stickers and is considerably better (and safer) than Goo Gone. If you're careful, you can even use it to remove stickers off of labels on cartridge games, and obviously, I know you guys sell those too. To be clear, I'm not saying this will help removing the mylar. In fact, slowly using an eye dropper, or q-tip doused in n-Heptane and rubbing it under the mylar sticker might help preserve the paint. I've not worked with pinball machines, but n-Heptane works to break down the molecular bond of the rubber-cement based glues without damaging most other surfaces (including paper.) This is why I suggest experimenting with a spare. I doubt it will damage the paint, but I can't guarantee. I'm not saying you didn't do your best, or "I have a better way", but hey, if you've never tried it, it's worth testing a new technique. I've pulled a lot of stickers off of delicate paper objects using it, and I assume it'd work the same in a situation like this.
Where do you typically find n-Heptane?
Being optimistic is the way to go! They do have clear primer. Thanks for the video...
When the going gets tough, the tough bring in Joey :P
I'm not even going to tell you how to remove mylar, because you know significantly more about it than me, but all I can say is, brave brave person you are, I mean, it had to be done, but if this was mine and it was in my house for my personal use, I def would not have touched it without 20yrs of research first.
Very entertaining and fun to watch. Thanks for posting this.
Can’t wait to see how nice this machine will be when you guys are done with it.
A whole lot of painting ahead but it will definitely be worth it. Thanks for the video!
I love the 70's funk music. A lot of the cleaned up stuff looks a millions times better. It hurt my feelings to see that middle piece lose the paint. Matching that paint seems like it would be a nightmare.
Don't listen to those peeps! Love your teaching style so please keep repeating!
Learned so much and only remember most because of that. Keep on brother!!👍
The playfield is...broke people
I was just showing how NOT to do it…. Ya that’s what I was doing
It’s broke.
@@Its-Broke Mamas...don't letcha babies grow up to fix pinballs 😁
These cleanings are like an old friend coming back that you haven't seen in decades
wow, that went south real quick when you removed that Mylar
I’ve had good results with the canned air freeze method on these older games. Use white flour and 91% isopropyl alcohol on the adhesive left behind. Let it set and soak for 20-30 sec. and start to roll the adhesive off with your fingers. Very minimal paint loss.
Never hear the Mylar. Always canned air.
This video proves once and for all that Ron was exactly right about what happens when you take off the Mylar.
Ron. As much as it hurts me to see a playfield get this bad we all know a guy (Hint hint) that can make a jem out of junk. Lets go my friend. Can't save em all but we can try. Ever get an early model GNR Machine I got dibs on it.
I reckon you got away with pretty good overall. The center area was always gonna be a problem, as there was just too much wear there before the Mylar was added. As you say it’s like putting down gaffe tape and then pulling it off. The center area is a bit of a challenge but I think for up for it Ronnie. …Go your hardest.
My prediction is: it’s gonna look great!
A video of Ron's sage advice, if only the people would listen...
watched enough of these. knowing what i know, it's not beyond Ron's abilities, to bring these complex amusements back to life. but this one looks a bit more of a challenge than usual. neato back glass, from before all of the modern thoughts.
Before I watch, but the Mylar situation got me thinking: "Billy. You know something, what is it? -I'm scared Poncho. Bull**** you ain't afraid of no man. -There's something out there hunting us, and it ain't no man."
just a thought acetone to get the glue off ,or have the play field image printed on paper or similar and overlay the play field I have done the reprint image for old alarm clocks . Anyway great videos and great work you all do.
Read the title and said to myself, “Oh no he’s not!” Watched the video and said “ well smack my ass he did.”
A lot of times we would leave it, but the damage under the mylar was just too much we had to remove it. I knew it was gonna be a mess but oh well!
8:27-8:58 Amazing synchronicity between the music (triangle) and playfield lights.
Completely Accidental :)
when i remove my mylar, i melt a quarter inside of a crucible and cast a spell taught to me by a witch i met at the boardwalk once. works every time.
I knew I was forgetting something
You have your work cut out for you on this machine…😎
Got a question for you Joe. 18:04 top right corner, why did they make that large hole for just a little bulb? Its on nearly all the machines pre 1980, Bally, Williams and Gottlieb all had it
It may have had to do with hanging the things up while you paint it. So it may have been for a fixture in the factory, that's my guess. On later machines they usually used it to run wiring for mechs on top of the playfield down to the bottom....
When he gets into videos like this, I have the feeling Ron is a Karate Kid fan.
"Wax on, wax off!"
Pintastic this saturday
Per hour labor, that cost a lot! My druthers would be to get the CPR repro playfield for $750 (yes, lots of hours to change) and be left with a perfect playfield to match that titillatingly perfect backglass!! Great stuff btw. Enjoy your vids and wait for the next one always.
Well, there's a bit of a problem with that. CPR is out of stock of the repro playfield, and I have no idea when their next production run will be. Also, it's $850 now.
Plus $60 shipping... the hours it would take to swap over all the parts to the new playfield far exceed the hours it takes to clean and paint this one, so you've got to draw the line somewhere unfortunately. I do this as a business, if I put new playfields in everything I would have already been out of business long ago
This was a well played game.
Lots of hours
Is there any counter that keeps track of number of credits ?
Like a mechanical counter or a digital counter in the menu ?
The paint looks very 70s. I would try to repaint the whole playfield or buy a new layover for the entire playfield. It was well played and it stands that you should spend the money for a new playfield and seal it with triple thick or something else to safeguard it.
Yeah that was exactly what I thought. It needs a new playfield, this one's just too far gone, unfortunately.
Nothing wrong with the 1970s people..some great people were born in the early 70s 👉😊👈
Not viable from a business point of view. He'll get it to a standard that reflects the price he will sell it for, and still make a profit.
@@sprinter768 That's assuming that an overlay for this particular machine is even available... I checked, and there _is_ one, but it's been out of stock for years. With such small production runs, it could be several years before Classic Playfield Reproductions (CPR) does another production run. On top of that, even if it WAS in stock, it's $850 plus S&H.
Now, consider this: Strikes and Spares was a pretty common machine. More than 12,000 were built. They're worth about $1600 in mint condition. So you're suggesting they should spend $900 (plus however much they've already spent) on a machine that probably won't sell for more than $1600? That's not going to happen, because there goes ALL their profit.
@@SpearM3064 Well, damn. I can see why they'll fix it now. Those reproductions are too expensive. More people should be involved in the making of reproductions business so that competition would drive down prices. Seems like they would still be making a handsome profit.
Joe; come on now Joe. Really Joe. It"s not midnight and you haven"t had 5 beers. You said EIGHT ball. That"s a big old black bowling ball. Oh Joe look it"s got three holes. 2x, 3x. and 5x. I love man. Pinball name: Mac Attack Robot name: Mentor Mac Real name: Thomas (just give me a crabcake) McCubbin. Amen
Well you called me by the wrong name so we're even :)
I would have used heat to get it off, but I would have used air tool cleaner to remove the remaining glue residue. One downside of air tool cleaner is that it's very flammable.
In an overlay available? Could look new again
maybe they played a while without the glass on it :P
greetings guys looking forward to the painting part :d
You didn’t have your tongue at the right angle. 😁😜
Someone obviously hasn't seen "What's it to You" and therefore doesn't recognize the miracle of mylar.
15:50 You forgot to twist your tongue sideways
JOE, What types of freezes would you use to remove the Mylar? Have you ever used "floating Mylar"? because I haven't seen you use floating mylar in your videos
I just used any compressed air can sold at Walmart. See my comment/video I just posted. The previous owner did the same and placed mylar over untouched paint
Yes, compressed air/ keyboard duster.. whatever you want call it. Don’t shake the can. Flip the can upside down and the air will be frozen out of the nozzle. Start on one end to get the Mylar started. X-acto knife can help to carefully lift Mylar. Once the Mylar freezes, it will start to release quickly. Use some care as you go and you’ll get minimal paint loss.. if any. The adhesive will be left behind on the playfield. I use 91% isopropyl alcohol and a bit of regular white flour. Spread a little bit of flour on the adhesive, the flour will stick to it. Then apply a bit of alcohol in the flour/adhesive. Let it set for 20-30 seconds or so. Use your fingers to roll the adhesive off. It takes a bit of time to get a sweet spot on the process, but it’ll take it off and damage will be at a minimum. This way is better than using a heat gun.. believe me.
@@webbfaze124 This is what I thought is freezing is better than using a heat gun right? because the heat gun will peel off the paint compared to freezing it won't peel off the paint? The white flour is the same white flour you use for cooking right?
@wayne Gram yes on the cooking flour... I'm actually doing that as well but adhesive is fairly on thick. I wore gloves and a cheap respirator mask (both from harbor freight), because breathing in the compressed air plus the awful residue taste on lips is an annoyance.
Definitely want to make sure the mylar is cold, and will simply snap off the playfield easily. If you have to pull, its not cold enough
@@Roadsurfer2k11 Doesn't Harbor Freight have a compressed Air that has a dial to use a certain temperature to freeze the mylar cold? because flipping a dust air can upside down using it to freeze the mylar will take a lot of dust air cans for the whole playfield thick mylar
You're supposed to remove the mylar while Chuck Norris stares down the paint. It ain't gonna move then.
Hey Ron!!
Hey Jason!
Point to.note...don't get rust on your balls
What is the cleaner you are spraying on the playfield?
That looked like goo gone and a magic eraser pad. The pads are slightly abrasive so beware of that, it will pull old paint up too. I have really bad glue to remove and even using the flour/ipa/microfiber cloth trick to try and remove it
@@Roadsurfer2k11 Yes, I was actually referring to the stuff that is blue. Looks similiar to glass cleaner, right at the beginning of the cleaning he sprays it on the playfield.
@PinFixin ahhh I missed it.. it's Windex. I managed to get a clear pic at 9:58 stopped when bottle was visible
Some people use Naptha but it's hard to find in store, amazon has it. Basically 100% alcohol so it evaps fast. I've used what I could get from the store which is 91% alcohol. The thing is not to so much water or chemical based products on wood that's exposed or it'll plank.
It’s really Broke!
Yea the play field is broken people😅
BAD IDEA
It's Bad, people!
Yodelayheehoo
Wax on wax off
13:48 I saw what you did on the first one you weren't paying attention and cooked it and the paint. You did a really good job on the other two after learning from your first mistake. Live and learn is the best teacher.
Don't forget the credit card trick for the straight lines
Lol you would have done it so much better
@@LyonsArcade been there done that my first tour in the Navy I worked on helicopter towed minesweeping gear that anti-erosion tape on the leading edges and when it gets worn it had to be replaced. It only took a couple of times of repainting hydrofoils before I figured it out.
You know what, I couldn't have done better, and I bet you know that!
I'm gonna be that guy, but... using Windex to clean a playfield?? That seems like a bad idea
I've cleaned about 500 playfields this way, if you want to clean it a different way because you read on the internet to do so that's fine
No offense but that playfield needs to be retired. It's too far gone.
Black and white are not colors...sorry, I'm just being "that guy" lol 😂
Black and White are absolutely colors if you're painting, I can tell you've never touched a paint brush