Usually, when I find bearings without a cage, the grease is enough to hold them in place until you can fit the parts together that contain them. As mentioned before, there was a time when loose bearings were more common than not.
I tried to put one on my bike because I was going to use a pull start with my 2 stroke but it kept coming loose. I used thread locker and the bearing went to shit. I had to heat it up with a blow torch and beat it apart for a hour to get the bearing cap off. It was ridiculously hard
If the inner threaded cup is adjusted right there won’t be any play and the cage won’t even be contacting the cup or the cone. Usually on bikes if the cage is getting bent it was because the bearings were adjusted way loose
Loose bearings used to be standard. I've serviced a few old bikes where you open the bottom bracket and the bearings just fall out, along with anything else that had worked its way into the seat tube over the years.
judgemartiniz Yeah I don't know why they went away from the way things use to be. Granted it was a little more difficult installing them, but at least they held up more than a week.
Bill Nonyabus Yes the bearing kit was installed the correct way. The 3 piece crankset alone is only $25.00 if that says anything about the quality. The overall design of the bearing cups and the crankset shaft is horrible at best, as there is a significant space in between the shaft and the cups which puts all the pressure on to the cheap bearing cages. The ultimate fix would have been spending $200 on a sealed bearing 3 piece crankset, but I chose my $3.00 fix instead. While the bearings are still holding up perfect, there is still the flawed design with the gap that allows water and dirt inside. So ideally it should be taken apart once a year to be cleaned and greased. Also keep in mind that while the majority of the pedaling is forward, there is also a fair amount going backward for braking. With the stock bearing system the metal on metal gave it enough bite to come loose from repeated braking. The new owner has about 1600 miles on it currently and still just as smooth as the day I changed the bearing system.
I'm researching for a build. Will be my first. Wanting 4 stroke kit and shift kit (jackshaft) on a 7 speed. Right now I'm considering a Trek 820 their $369 or less. Then the kits. Gasbike has 4 stroke 4 $250. Sickbikes wants $185 4 the 4 stroke jackshaft kit. Cartridge will run 16 to 25 dollars more. And I need a crank removal tool $8 to $10.
I've got a engine kit with wide pedels but I need a crank rod, my bike is a beach cruiser the pedals are all join together so I need a large shaft rod to hook my wide pedals, I can't seem to find a shaft, for all the kits I've seen on ebay don't have the shaft. where did you get your long shaft from cheers.
there are a few motorized bike sellers with wide crank kits on eBay. average price is abt $40-45 and the commonest crank length is ~10.5". add 1.25" on each side for the arms, and you'll clear any 4 stroke up to 212 Predator. you can check BicycleMotorWorks.com or others but stay away from BikeBerry and GasBike lol
Probably doesn't help either that the bottom bracket housings are on the wrong side. At first glance it would appear that the problem is, as your pedaling the bottom bracket is loosening up. Probably wouldn't have that problem if the bottom bracket housing was flipping around.
I had 1 and the bearings failed just like yours `put in a new set and the cotter pin would not hold once I fixed that ~ the pin housing spun on the sprocket ,JUNK, So Pissed ,My Advice spend money on an AMERICAN made axle and crank ,fail proof
+todd hayes Sorry to hear that happened Todd. It took me a couple builds to take the dive in to the higher end crankset since it's pricey, but it's worth every single penny!
todd hayes The massive offset causes uneven forces, bike bottom bracket bearings must cope with radial and axial forces. I have found that an offset crank and pedal assembly is not always needed if you intend the motor to do most of the work and shorter cranks can create the clearance required.
yeah the pin held cranks even on normal bikes play out and the crank arm gets loose. add some bumps @ 25+mph and standing on the pedals and that crank won't be long for this world
Show a video on how you did it please,
Usually, when I find bearings without a cage, the grease is enough to hold them in place until you can fit the parts together that contain them. As mentioned before, there was a time when loose bearings were more common than not.
yes. just a blob of grease will hold just fine, and you'll be greasing them anyway so it's a win.
I tried to put one on my bike because I was going to use a pull start with my 2 stroke but it kept coming loose. I used thread locker and the bearing went to shit. I had to heat it up with a blow torch and beat it apart for a hour to get the bearing cap off. It was ridiculously hard
You have a link for this?
Oh brother - you got this video up and you didn't even know how to use grease? (slapping forehead.)
If the inner threaded cup is adjusted right there won’t be any play and the cage won’t even be contacting the cup or the cone. Usually on bikes if the cage is getting bent it was because the bearings were adjusted way loose
Loose bearings used to be standard. I've serviced a few old bikes where you open the bottom bracket and the bearings just fall out, along with anything else that had worked its way into the seat tube over the years.
judgemartiniz Yeah I don't know why they went away from the way things use to be. Granted it was a little more difficult installing them, but at least they held up more than a week.
Wear can I get the $200 bottom bracket and crank set
Use lucas red tack grease. Super tacky. Works great.
Did you put the bearing seat kit in the wrong way ? As you pedal each side should go toward tighten I thought.
Bill Nonyabus Yes the bearing kit was installed the correct way. The 3 piece crankset alone is only $25.00 if that says anything about the quality. The overall design of the bearing cups and the crankset shaft is horrible at best, as there is a significant space in between the shaft and the cups which puts all the pressure on to the cheap bearing cages. The ultimate fix would have been spending $200 on a sealed bearing 3 piece crankset, but I chose my $3.00 fix instead. While the bearings are still holding up perfect, there is still the flawed design with the gap that allows water and dirt inside. So ideally it should be taken apart once a year to be cleaned and greased. Also keep in mind that while the majority of the pedaling is forward, there is also a fair amount going backward for braking. With the stock bearing system the metal on metal gave it enough bite to come loose from repeated braking. The new owner has about 1600 miles on it currently and still just as smooth as the day I changed the bearing system.
I'm researching for a build. Will be my first. Wanting 4 stroke kit and shift kit (jackshaft) on a 7 speed. Right now I'm considering a Trek 820 their $369 or less. Then the kits. Gasbike has 4 stroke 4 $250. Sickbikes wants $185 4 the 4 stroke jackshaft kit. Cartridge will run 16 to 25 dollars more. And I need a crank removal tool $8 to $10.
I need 14 inches between pedals what crank set would you suggest?
I've got a engine kit with wide pedels but I need a crank rod, my bike is a beach cruiser the pedals are all join together so I need a large shaft rod to hook my wide pedals, I can't seem to find a shaft, for all the kits I've seen on ebay don't have the shaft. where did you get your long shaft from cheers.
there are a few motorized bike sellers with wide crank kits on eBay. average price is abt $40-45 and the commonest crank length is ~10.5". add 1.25" on each side for the arms, and you'll clear any 4 stroke up to 212 Predator. you can check BicycleMotorWorks.com or others but stay away from BikeBerry and GasBike lol
Probably doesn't help either that the bottom bracket housings are on the wrong side. At first glance it would appear that the problem is, as your pedaling the bottom bracket is loosening up. Probably wouldn't have that problem if the bottom bracket housing was flipping around.
Ta crank rod is wide . Where to find it.
This crank is junk.Its so wide it runs your chain at an angle causing the back sprocket to kick the chain off before you can even peddle 2 times
Do you have a website?
Do you sell parts etc?
Same thing happend to me. Am going to a shift kit with a cartridge bearing crank.
I like your videos
Your bearings & cage looked bone dry. It might be the reason for your failure.
I had 1 and the bearings failed just like yours `put in a new set and the cotter pin would not hold once I fixed that ~ the pin housing spun on the sprocket ,JUNK, So Pissed ,My Advice spend money on an AMERICAN made axle and crank ,fail proof
+todd hayes Sorry to hear that happened Todd. It took me a couple builds to take the dive in to the higher end crankset since it's pricey, but it's worth every single penny!
todd hayes The massive offset causes uneven forces, bike bottom bracket bearings must cope with radial and axial forces. I have found that an offset crank and pedal assembly is not always needed if you intend the motor to do most of the work and shorter cranks can create the clearance required.
yeah the pin held cranks even on normal bikes play out and the crank arm gets loose. add some bumps @ 25+mph and standing on the pedals and that crank won't be long for this world
Interesting
Adam, can u send me your email? would like to correspond with u on a build i'm planning. I would like to duplicate what u have done