If a table saw can cut aluminum, why not use it to saw the slots for the magnets as well? Probably couldn't just use a dado stack (I've never tried it, not sure I would though) but you could easily just take some shallow cuts and move the piece over very slightly with each cut and then gradually take deeper cuts to make the slots for the magnets. A jig would probably save a lot of time.
@@fredfchopin it’s probably possible but aluminum is tough on your blade. You might go through a couple blades doing this. It might work though. Thanks for watching.
Could you do a quick bit on using the distal taper function? I'm curious what happens, or how you adjust when one side is done then flip it over since it will have an angle on that side.
@@edwardlance2379 Ah, great question! It depends what you are trying to do. If it’s taper a whole blade, pre-bevel, then I usually mark a point on the blade, so I know where I’m starting. Then set the taper by raising the end. You can measure it with calipers. Then you flip it over and raise the taper the same amount again to do the other side if you want it mirrored. If you were doing the entire knife, front to back, you just need to taper one side. Does this make sense?
I didn't see a way to put a review on your website, so I figured I'd post here. I bought Tyrell's mag chuck to make my own surface grinder about 9 months ago. The price was right, it was well machined and it fit up perfectly to the linear rail. The cost of all the supplies were probably 400-500. Can't beat that! Thank you, sir!
Thank you for making the magnetic chuck available for purchase. That was the barrier of entry for making this, and this has more customizability, utility, and cost effectiveness than most of the options out there. Has allowed me to effectively and reliable implement distal tapers into my knives without the practice for freehanding.
Thank you, I'm thrilled it's working out for you! Would you mind if I used this on my website as a review? If so, just email me at tyrellknifeworks at gmail with your first/last name or message me on IG. Thanks again!
Yest another great video. One thing I wanted to point out and suggest. When installing the magnets, pay attention to the polarity of the magnet. I have built a surface grinder and didn't pay attention to the polarity. It did cause some clamping issues with the material. Just be sure to have all the magnets with the same polarity going in one direction on the chuck.
I mentioned that in the video. When they are glued in they need to be oriented the same way. It’s actually hard to scree it up because they go in easier if oriented the same. Thanks for watching.
Thank you very much for the video. I just finished building my surface grinder. Your video made the process understandable and achievable. I made a plate that attaches first to the cross slide and the the linear rail attaches to that. To mount the chuck (which I purchased from your website) to the linear rail, I machined the bolt heads round so they would fit the recesses in the linear rail. I also attached a handle to the rail and fabricated a stop to prevent pulling the rail off accidentally. Truthfully, I'm not that clever, I followed your instructions and my OCD forced the modifications.
Took me a while but finished building one (with some tweaks for my machine). There is about a 0.024 inch error from top to bottom 18 inches and 0.008 side to side. I think i can adjust bits to make it more accurate, but i am happy at this. What i learned is that a mill would have made this infinitely easier. The chuck was made hand router which is not for the feint of heart. All the holes drilled with a rickity drill press. Overall, thanks for the tips. This will help me and save time.
Hmmm.. 0.024 is too much. You can try shimming the chuck mount to correct it. 0.008 is also too much side to side. You definitely want to true that up a bit and get it around .001 across and no more than 0.002 or 0.003 lengthwise. Try shimming it and see what outcome you get. 👍🏻
Be looking to make one of these next month, building my belt grinder presently and already have stuff to grind on it. Love your videos and always waiting on the next one !!!
For anyone trying to do this, who doesn't have access to a mill, I 've had good results with a router and a carbide router bit. Obviously go slow, use lubrication and a jig to keep the router aligned.
I have made one based on the one you use (so thanks for that). But i used cheap on/of indicator stand magnets instead of the permanent magnets. The magnets are 40kg 5 euro per Pease. These magnets you can bolt on instead of machining slots in the bar. It is a little bit bulkier but work great.
@@TyrellKnifeworks hi buddy Yes I have the same magnets you have used to build my own Chuck,yes my question was for @makermaker276 if he replies? Thanks for the reply buddy 👍 Regards Davy
It’s really a pretty quick build at about 3 hours if you have a mill. If you’re purchasing a chuck, you can do this under 2 hours. Happy ThanksGiving and thanks for watching, Scott!
Pretty sure I did what you did. The 3/8X3” bolts holding the chuck to the cross slide I used Hex bolts but drilled out the holes in the cross slide and counter sunk them. Then used the grinder to taper the heads , shorten the face and an angle grinder to cut slots on the top. That about right?
Great video! A little concern about using the fence and the crosscut guide at the same time on your table saw. When cutting wood , any misalignment can result in a very dangerous kickback. With aluminum I'm guessing the same can happen. Adding a block to the fence that stops in front of the blade eliminates the issue and still allows the crosscut guide to work.
Ordered a chuck yesterday morning and got the shipping notification in an hour! Can't wait to get my hands on it, I think the chuck I made out of steel angle is the weak point of the SGA I made. Using an aluminum wheel, I'm getting a wavy pattern on the steel, but I think part of it was taking too much in a pass, because the wheel won't forgive any unevenness. My other concern was that maybe the magnets are pulling the steel down a bit in the gaps. So I tried filling in with resin, but being so much softer, it doesn't grind evenly with steel and still leaves the gaps. I think I could do it with an aluminum chuck though, and maybe a fully supported surface would help with waviness. What do you think about using a metal wheel?
Hey brother, great video and thank you! My question, once both surfaces are finished ground, key word "finished", how do you prevent scratches on the workpiece when sliding it off the magnet?
We're going to try this but instead of using a mill for the magnetic chuck we're going to use the table saw again, lowering the blade, and using the dado method cut in the channels.
Great vid! Now I know what my next project is 😂 Quick question, could you use a thin piece of G10 or acrylic between the steel and the magnets to help take it off easier and prevent scratching??
Great vIdeo and thank you so much for the metrics measurements :) Instead of milling the slots, could you use a 5mm Alu bar and cut it in to strips and bolt them down in the main Alu bar ? it would be a lot of holes and tapping, but it may be easier than grinding with a file.
Honestly, it’ll cost you an extra $80 over the base materials to buy one off my website. Doing what you are suggesting probably won’t save you much. If you really want to do it yourself you could consider using a table saw to cut the grooves but you’ll probably go through a couple blades. A router table with a fence would work. Thanks for watching.
It’s possible but aluminum is hard on your blade. You’d probably go through a couple blades in the process. Certainly an option though. Thanks for watching, Sam.
Nice one thing I don’t have but would like my wife asked me what I wanted for Christmas now I can give her a list lol you know the best way to get the filings off the magnet, use a bigger magnet Lol
Several have asked the same thing. I think maybe you could, but you’d likely go through a few blades and it would look pretty rough. It might work though. Thanks for watching, Patrick.
Dude I have an idea ,maybe make a release that comes up the center of the chuck That’s a lot of force on the tooling arm and grinder when you had to snatch it off 😮
The workpiece usually slides off and isn’t pulled off so it’s not too bad. Making a lever action mag chuck would be cool but complicated. Thanks for watching, James.
Mine is going on 4 years. It will definitely NOT demagnetize. I’ve also sold many of these mag chucks and I’ve never had a single complaint. Thanks for watching.
Hey Dennis, great video! Question, you have an end mill and a surface grinder. Is there a reason that you can't use the end mill to flatten the surfaces? I guess you would have to use the surface grinder to begin with to make sure the surfaces are parallel, but would there be any advantage time wise to complete the job using the end mill. I don't have one so I don't know if that would be practical at all. Keep up the great work! Happy Holidays to you and your family!
The aluminum is already flat and even, the issue is that you get a slight canter when it bolts to the slide and that’s what you’re correcting. Until you get it on there, you can’t really figure that out. If you are talking in general, surface grinding is WAY faster than milling. Unless you need exceptionally flat surfaces that require extreme precision (rarely for knife making except for folders). Plus end mills are expensive so you don’t want to be going through them too often. Thanks for watching
Hey buddy, I'm having issues getting started, I need a belt grinder so i can begin my knife making, should I build one ? Or is there something you suggest? I can't afford the big ones like I should have but someone has to start somewhere right ?!
I suggest you get the Revolution grinder kit from Brian at Housemade.us. It takes a bit of welding but if you don’t know how, that’s a good skill to learn. He’s got a sale running right now as well. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks I just don't have 700 bucks to start out making knives. I feel like there has to be a lower priced piece of equipment I can start out with. What did they do back in the day? I know eventually I'm going to work my way up to a larger, professional grinder but I need something far more affordable at the moment. I'm trying to get my knife making off the ground but I've been plagued with terrible luck over and over again for the last year. I had to sell everything I own except my car. I'm now homeless and live in a big canvas tent.. I feel like if I can just get a few models out there so people can see my designs and my work, I can turn my luck around and start making a living doing what i love
@@GerstBladeworks I thought you wanted a 2x72 grinder. There are smaller options like a 1x30. Those you can pickup for about $150 as a combo with a disk grinder. Grizzly has one for $149. You can find just the 1x30 for about $50. Checkout Harbor Freight.
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rubber wheel and magnet part must be each other vertical 90 degree... for this need magnet side under build tilt system. (like this u see before where is gap and after will be tilt to this side).
I’m not exactly sure what you’re trying to say, but the magnetic chuck is 90 degrees to the belt already. These surface grinders, when adjusted well, are within a thousand of an inch or .03mm. Thanks for watching.
if you used the table saw for cutting the aluminum bar why couldn't you use it for cutting the grooves for the magnets? or even better yet use a dado stack for cutting them? just a suggestion
Another awesome project with great info on how to put it together! Like others said I wonder how difficult it would be to replace with electro magnets? Happy Thanksgiving Dennis and everyone! Anyway thanks again Dennis!
You don’t want electro-magnets. They are a pain in the ass since the wire constantly gets in your way. Plus you need power provided all the time. Simple is better. Thanks for watching, Stephen.
I have this one: th-cam.com/video/eEAOylMFdFg/w-d-xo.html, and this one: th-cam.com/video/M3wcvcVdhug/w-d-xo.html. I hope those help. Thanks for watching.
A bigger wheel is better, less “ribs” on your steel. Either solid or grooved works. Grooved can be more aggressive and take more off. My big stand up surface grinder has a grooved wheel. Thanks for watching.
80mm is more than enough. The issue with the 50mm is that it's very narrow and I'd be concerned with deflection on the linear rail since its only about 2" wide and it has to support a 24" rail. The 80mm one is about 4" wide-ish.
I’m not sure I understand your question. You want the steel to go thorough normalization and grain refinement and preferably an anneal before quenching.
@johntwite2421 do a few grain refinement steps first. Heat it non/magnetic and stop and let air cool, do that twice after your normalization. Then heat to below non-magnetic and let cool in your forge as it cools down. THEN do your quench, that’s the best method.
No, not at all. Just get a flat contact wheel. The size isn’t critical either, it could be 4/6/8”. The 4” is the cheapest option and what I used for years. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the video. This is on the list for attachments for the Revolution I just built. Just one nitpicky safety thing at 6:29. It is almost universally a bad idea to use the miter gauge and rip fence of a table saw at the same time. I mega cringe every time I see someone doing it.
This is certainly one of my most used attachments. Note, after I measure the aluminum with the fence, I loosen the fence so its not tight. It's not actually running against the fence at this point. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks With the saw you are using, i guess the fence would be light enough to be the most compliant in the event of a pinch. One of mine has a biesemeyer and the other has a rack and pinon fence. I give at least 3/4 extra clearance when crosscutting. You wouldn't believe how many people I have seen use a locked fence as a stop.
That isn’t going to work. Your holes drilled to hold the chuck to the rail are already 1/8” away from the side when it’s 1.5”. You can try it but I have my doubts.
You keep say in all your videos the the list of parts is in the description below. TH-cam seem to have taken that part out since they updated a while ago. No videos seem to have that part available any more if it’s there I can’t find it clicked on every avail button but no list of parts. If anyone knows where it is let me know.
You need to expand the description. If you’re on mobile, there’s a “more…” you need to click. TH-cam has made the video description kinda hard to find. Thanks for watching.
Those are considerably more complex and expensive. This msg chuck is the right amount of power for things to stick but still easily removable. Thanks for watching.
Stainless steel grinds just like regular steel. Some of the high end stainless knife steels are tougher to grind but still do quite easily. Thanks for watching
I wouldn't exactly say "cleanly" cut for a table saw. It'll do it, but it's a pain in the ass. The router will certainly work with a fence and a good bit. Thanks for watching, Kevin.
@@TyrellKnifeworks Inches? Get with the plan, only die hard idiots believe there is any future for a measurement system that may as well be based on the length of a banana but is actually based on the metric system. It makes you look stupid. Imperial references the metric system now, its like you standing up there talking about bananas when those bananas are measured in meters. And lets not forget about "Freedom" because the imperial system is about rich wealthy countries and corporations holding copies of the original Standard. While metric is a system where anyone can reference the standard as it is based on the world around us.
Uhhhhh Bro ! NEVER grind these Neodymium magnets ! The layer of Nickel they have is a protection from rust and realy thin. If you reach the core of the magnets, they will corrode in no time !
Any questions on this build I didn't answer in the video? Check my website for mag chucks if you want to build it. www.tyrellknifeworks.com.
If a table saw can cut aluminum, why not use it to saw the slots for the magnets as well? Probably couldn't just use a dado stack (I've never tried it, not sure I would though) but you could easily just take some shallow cuts and move the piece over very slightly with each cut and then gradually take deeper cuts to make the slots for the magnets. A jig would probably save a lot of time.
@@fredfchopin it’s probably possible but aluminum is tough on your blade. You might go through a couple blades doing this. It might work though. Thanks for watching.
Could you do a quick bit on using the distal taper function? I'm curious what happens, or how you adjust when one side is done then flip it over since it will have an angle on that side.
@@edwardlance2379 Ah, great question! It depends what you are trying to do. If it’s taper a whole blade, pre-bevel, then I usually mark a point on the blade, so I know where I’m starting. Then set the taper by raising the end. You can measure it with calipers. Then you flip it over and raise the taper the same amount again to do the other side if you want it mirrored. If you were doing the entire knife, front to back, you just need to taper one side. Does this make sense?
How strongly do the wheels hold the profile with magnetic chuck ?
Is there any side to side movement ?
I didn't see a way to put a review on your website, so I figured I'd post here. I bought Tyrell's mag chuck to make my own surface grinder about 9 months ago. The price was right, it was well machined and it fit up perfectly to the linear rail. The cost of all the supplies were probably 400-500. Can't beat that! Thank you, sir!
I’m glad it worked out for you! Thanks for the review!
Thank you for making the magnetic chuck available for purchase. That was the barrier of entry for making this, and this has more customizability, utility, and cost effectiveness than most of the options out there. Has allowed me to effectively and reliable implement distal tapers into my knives without the practice for freehanding.
Thank you, I'm thrilled it's working out for you! Would you mind if I used this on my website as a review? If so, just email me at tyrellknifeworks at gmail with your first/last name or message me on IG. Thanks again!
Yest another great video. One thing I wanted to point out and suggest. When installing the magnets, pay attention to the polarity of the magnet. I have built a surface grinder and didn't pay attention to the polarity. It did cause some clamping issues with the material. Just be sure to have all the magnets with the same polarity going in one direction on the chuck.
I mentioned that in the video. When they are glued in they need to be oriented the same way. It’s actually hard to scree it up because they go in easier if oriented the same. Thanks for watching.
Sorry, I missed that part.
Thank you very much for the video. I just finished building my surface grinder. Your video made the process understandable and achievable. I made a plate that attaches first to the cross slide and the the linear rail attaches to that. To mount the chuck (which I purchased from your website) to the linear rail, I machined the bolt heads round so they would fit the recesses in the linear rail. I also attached a handle to the rail and fabricated a stop to prevent pulling the rail off accidentally. Truthfully, I'm not that clever, I followed your instructions and my OCD forced the modifications.
That’s great, Boris! Time to put it to work on some cool projects! 👍
Thanks for the metric measurements. I grew up with metric so imperial is foreign to me. Love your channel.
Thanks for watching!
You could use the table saw and a cross slide to cut the slots. Nice build thanks for sharing
Several have said that, but I think you'd end up going through a few blades and it would look really rough. It might work though. Thanks for watching.
Took me a while but finished building one (with some tweaks for my machine). There is about a 0.024 inch error from top to bottom 18 inches and 0.008 side to side. I think i can adjust bits to make it more accurate, but i am happy at this.
What i learned is that a mill would have made this infinitely easier. The chuck was made hand router which is not for the feint of heart. All the holes drilled with a rickity drill press.
Overall, thanks for the tips. This will help me and save time.
Hmmm.. 0.024 is too much. You can try shimming the chuck mount to correct it. 0.008 is also too much side to side. You definitely want to true that up a bit and get it around .001 across and no more than 0.002 or 0.003 lengthwise. Try shimming it and see what outcome you get. 👍🏻
@@TyrellKnifeworks thanks. Turns out after some shimming and checking the screws, it is now about 0.001 inch either direction. Thanks for the tips
Finally got me a mill, and looking forward to this being one of my first projects on it.
That's great! My mill is probably my favorite tool in the shop. Thanks for watching.
Be looking to make one of these next month, building my belt grinder presently and already have stuff to grind on it. Love your videos and always waiting on the next one !!!
I’m glad this build was helpful. Good luck with your grinder build. Thanks for watching.
Offering the mag chuck really eliminates the barrier of entry for a sga, great idea!
I hope so! Thanks for checking it out, Zachary!
I can't believe I missed this, it sure why Thanks for posting it up on IG.
I’m glad you found it useful, Dan!
For anyone trying to do this, who doesn't have access to a mill, I 've had good results with a router and a carbide router bit. Obviously go slow, use lubrication and a jig to keep the router aligned.
I wouldn't try this without a fence attached to your router table. Freehanding this wouldn't be very pretty. Thanks for watching.
I just got my ameribrade surface grinder and it's absolutely game changing.
Great machine, but at over $1100, it should be! Thanks for checking out this build.
You lucky bastard lol.
I have made one based on the one you use (so thanks for that). But i used cheap on/of indicator stand magnets instead of the permanent magnets. The magnets are 40kg 5 euro per Pease. These magnets you can bolt on instead of machining slots in the bar. It is a little bit bulkier but work great.
I tried to make this build as cheap as possible. There certainly are more expensive options.
That's treu,i did it because i hadn't a milling machine. But it's more expensive.
Have you a link to the magnets please.
@@DTKcustomknives the link to the magnets I use is in the video description. If you’re referring to @makermaker276, hopefully he’ll post that link.
@@TyrellKnifeworks hi buddy
Yes I have the same magnets you have used to build my own Chuck,yes my question was for @makermaker276 if he replies?
Thanks for the reply buddy 👍
Regards
Davy
Bravo nice and easy
Thanks for checking out this build!
Good thing I’m watching and not just listening! Gotta read all the corrections! Hilarious tho. Lol
It’s amazing how many silly things you say when trying to film content. 🤣. Thanks for watching!
As usual, great vid. You guessed what my next project was!
I think I put this together in about 3 hours, that included milling the chuck and setting the magnets. Pretty easy build! Thanks for watching
I always wondered how those are made, ill add that to my long list of projects. Thanks Dennis. Have a happy Thanksgiving.
It’s really a pretty quick build at about 3 hours if you have a mill. If you’re purchasing a chuck, you can do this under 2 hours. Happy ThanksGiving and thanks for watching, Scott!
Awesome tutorial Denis! Thank you!
Now you gotta build it!
😉. Thanks for watching
Tools Tips and Turkey!
Why didn’t I think of that when recording the intro!! 👍🤣. Thanks for watching, Matt!
@@TyrellKnifeworks 😁 Welcome Buddy 👍
😂😂😂
Cant wait to get a real grinder so I can buy a chuck from you. That pricing you have is well worth it for sure.
Go get a Revolution from Brian at Housemade.us. You can’t beat that pricing. 👍
Thx for putting the measurements up also in metric
I certainly wanted this to accessible to all, not just US viewers. 👍 Thanks for watching.
Very cool. I Can see myself building one of these. Thank you
It’s quite an easy build and a tool I use on every knife build! Thanks for watching, Stephen.
Pretty sure I did what you did. The 3/8X3” bolts holding the chuck to the cross slide I used Hex bolts but drilled out the holes in the cross slide and counter sunk them. Then used the grinder to taper the heads , shorten the face and an angle grinder to cut slots on the top. That about right?
Yup, thats pretty much what I did. I'm glad it worked out for you!
Great video! A little concern about using the fence and the crosscut guide at the same time on your table saw. When cutting wood , any misalignment can result in a very dangerous kickback. With aluminum I'm guessing the same can happen. Adding a block to the fence that stops in front of the blade eliminates the issue and still allows the crosscut guide to work.
Thanks for the tip, Steve.
@@TyrellKnifeworks I hated to be a safety boi but I figured it was quite possible some viewers might not be as familiar with a table saw as a grinder.
Ordered a chuck yesterday morning and got the shipping notification in an hour! Can't wait to get my hands on it, I think the chuck I made out of steel angle is the weak point of the SGA I made. Using an aluminum wheel, I'm getting a wavy pattern on the steel, but I think part of it was taking too much in a pass, because the wheel won't forgive any unevenness. My other concern was that maybe the magnets are pulling the steel down a bit in the gaps. So I tried filling in with resin, but being so much softer, it doesn't grind evenly with steel and still leaves the gaps. I think I could do it with an aluminum chuck though, and maybe a fully supported surface would help with waviness. What do you think about using a metal wheel?
Thanks for the order! This one won’t flex the blade, you’ll be good. ❤️
Hey brother, great video and thank you! My question, once both surfaces are finished ground, key word "finished", how do you prevent scratches on the workpiece when sliding it off the magnet?
If you're using it for some final grinding passes, just put a piece of paper between the workpiece and the magnets. 👍🏻. Thanks for watching.
Great how to video - thank you for posting.
Thanks for checking it out, James!
Great video Dennis!
Thanks for taking a look!
We're going to try this but instead of using a mill for the magnetic chuck we're going to use the table saw again, lowering the blade, and using the dado method cut in the channels.
Give it a try. I suspect you might go through a blade or two, but give it a shot. Thanks for watching.
Great vid! Now I know what my next project is 😂
Quick question, could you use a thin piece of G10 or acrylic between the steel and the magnets to help take it off easier and prevent scratching??
Honestly, you want it that strong. You just need to slide things off instead of pulling them. Thanks for watching, Jon.
Great vIdeo and thank you so much for the metrics measurements :) Instead of milling the slots, could you use a 5mm Alu bar and cut it in to strips and bolt them down in the main Alu bar ? it would be a lot of holes and tapping, but it may be easier than grinding with a file.
Honestly, it’ll cost you an extra $80 over the base materials to buy one off my website. Doing what you are suggesting probably won’t save you much. If you really want to do it yourself you could consider using a table saw to cut the grooves but you’ll probably go through a couple blades. A router table with a fence would work. Thanks for watching.
Awesome build! Keep up the great work!
Thanks for checking it out!
Great a surface grinder! Hope you have more great ideas!
Thanks for checking it out!
At only 5mm depth you could grab your job site table saw and cut the slots with a circular saw blade. Easy peasy
Possibly, but it’s awfully messy and doesn’t look nice at all. I’ve tried it. 😉. It works but looks like crap. Thanks for watching.
Nice build video! You should sell the heck out of those mag chucks for that price.
Yeah, it’s been pretty good. A fun little side project. Happy ThanksGiving, Nick!
Amazing video and build
Thanks for watching, Nikolaj!
Good vid, great tool to have, those chucks are super cheap for their size.
It really is a tool I use on every build! Thanks for watching.
If you can cut aluminum with a table saw, couldn't you cut the slots for the magnetic chuck with a table saw with way you might cut box joints?
It’s possible but aluminum is hard on your blade. You’d probably go through a couple blades in the process. Certainly an option though. Thanks for watching, Sam.
Nice one thing I don’t have but would like my wife asked me what I wanted for Christmas now I can give her a list lol you know the best way to get the filings off the magnet, use a bigger magnet Lol
It’s an easy build, grab one of my mag chucks and get er done! 😜. Thanks for watching, Barry
@@TyrellKnifeworks my plan
Outstanding video!!
Thanks for checking out this build, Spencer!
You could cut the grooves for the magnets on the table saw instead of a mill.
Several have asked the same thing.
I think maybe you could, but you’d likely go through a few blades and it would look pretty rough. It might work though. Thanks for watching, Patrick.
Great video!,Happy Thanksgiving🦃🍗
Happy ThanksGiving, Michael! Thanks for watching.
Dude I have an idea ,maybe make a release that comes up the center of the chuck
That’s a lot of force on the tooling arm and grinder when you had to snatch it off 😮
The workpiece usually slides off and isn’t pulled off so it’s not too bad. Making a lever action mag chuck would be cool but complicated. Thanks for watching, James.
@@TyrellKnifeworks make a cam bolt that just bumps the work piece up enough ,not really that complicated
Thank you for sharing
Awesome tutorial, thank you
Thanks for watching, Greg!
What I want to know is, will it demagnetize after high temperature? ? How long have you been using it? Will it demagnetize? ? ?
Mine is going on 4 years. It will definitely NOT demagnetize. I’ve also sold many of these mag chucks and I’ve never had a single complaint. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks 非常感谢，我也是中国的一位手工博主，只是没有你们那么多的工具。都是纯手工。
Hey Dennis, great video! Question, you have an end mill and a surface grinder. Is there a reason that you can't use the end mill to flatten the surfaces? I guess you would have to use the surface grinder to begin with to make sure the surfaces are parallel, but would there be any advantage time wise to complete the job using the end mill. I don't have one so I don't know if that would be practical at all. Keep up the great work! Happy Holidays to you and your family!
The aluminum is already flat and even, the issue is that you get a slight canter when it bolts to the slide and that’s what you’re correcting. Until you get it on there, you can’t really figure that out. If you are talking in general, surface grinding is WAY faster than milling. Unless you need exceptionally flat surfaces that require extreme precision (rarely for knife making except for folders). Plus end mills are expensive so you don’t want to be going through them too often. Thanks for watching
@@TyrellKnifeworks Hey Denis, that makes sense. Thanks for the quick reply!
Thank you for this one!😊
I’m glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching.
Hey buddy, I'm having issues getting started, I need a belt grinder so i can begin my knife making, should I build one ? Or is there something you suggest? I can't afford the big ones like I should have but someone has to start somewhere right ?!
I suggest you get the Revolution grinder kit from Brian at Housemade.us. It takes a bit of welding but if you don’t know how, that’s a good skill to learn. He’s got a sale running right now as well. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks yeah I can weld, I'm no professional but I have welded my fair share of chassis, frames and axle supports for my rock buggys
@@GerstBladeworks it’s an easy build compared to those. Get a Revolution. 👍
@@TyrellKnifeworks I just don't have 700 bucks to start out making knives. I feel like there has to be a lower priced piece of equipment I can start out with. What did they do back in the day? I know eventually I'm going to work my way up to a larger, professional grinder but I need something far more affordable at the moment. I'm trying to get my knife making off the ground but I've been plagued with terrible luck over and over again for the last year. I had to sell everything I own except my car. I'm now homeless and live in a big canvas tent.. I feel like if I can just get a few models out there so people can see my designs and my work, I can turn my luck around and start making a living doing what i love
@@GerstBladeworks I thought you wanted a 2x72 grinder. There are smaller options like a 1x30. Those you can pickup for about $150 as a combo with a disk grinder. Grizzly has one for $149. You can find just the 1x30 for about $50. Checkout Harbor Freight.
rubber wheel and magnet part must be each other vertical 90 degree... for this need magnet side under build tilt system. (like this u see before where is gap and after will be tilt to this side).
I’m not exactly sure what you’re trying to say, but the magnetic chuck is 90 degrees to the belt already. These surface grinders, when adjusted well, are within a thousand of an inch or .03mm. Thanks for watching.
A few mag switches might work well also.
Thanks for watching this build
if you used the table saw for cutting the aluminum bar why couldn't you use it for cutting the grooves for the magnets? or even better yet use a dado stack for cutting them? just a suggestion
It’s possible but it leaves a pretty jagged edge and doesn’t look good at all. Thanks for watching.
Another awesome project with great info on how to put it together! Like others said I wonder how difficult it would be to replace with electro magnets? Happy Thanksgiving Dennis and everyone! Anyway thanks again Dennis!
You don’t want electro-magnets. They are a pain in the ass since the wire constantly gets in your way. Plus you need power provided all the time. Simple is better. Thanks for watching, Stephen.
Very interesting video
Thanks for watching, Jerry!
Ha man would you dedicated a vid on knife / sword guards. I've tried to look dem up but I got nothin
I have this one: th-cam.com/video/eEAOylMFdFg/w-d-xo.html, and this one: th-cam.com/video/M3wcvcVdhug/w-d-xo.html. I hope those help. Thanks for watching.
Is it better a 6” contact wheel va 4”? is it also preferred a solid vs grooved ?? Thanks in advance
A bigger wheel is better, less “ribs” on your steel. Either solid or grooved works. Grooved can be more aggressive and take more off. My big stand up surface grinder has a grooved wheel. Thanks for watching.
@ thanks I’m very excited to built mine I just ordered all parts. Much appreciated 🙏🏻
Concerning the cross sled, is 80mm more than enough stroke length? I'm looking at a 50mm but don't want to go too short.
80mm is more than enough. The issue with the 50mm is that it's very narrow and I'd be concerned with deflection on the linear rail since its only about 2" wide and it has to support a 24" rail. The 80mm one is about 4" wide-ish.
Could round earth magnets be used ? No milling
Yeah, but with less overlap, they aren’t as strong. The bars are much better and stronger.
Do you think I would have any success doing the hamone on W-2 in a normalized state?
I’m not sure I understand your question. You want the steel to go thorough normalization and grain refinement and preferably an anneal before quenching.
@ I don’t have heat treat oven I heat treat right from normalized state
@johntwite2421 do a few grain refinement steps first. Heat it non/magnetic and stop and let air cool, do that twice after your normalization. Then heat to below non-magnetic and let cool in your forge as it cools down. THEN do your quench, that’s the best method.
Hi Dennis, is it important the "40duro" for the contact whell ? Thanks !
No, not at all. Just get a flat contact wheel. The size isn’t critical either, it could be 4/6/8”. The 4” is the cheapest option and what I used for years. Thanks for watching.
Can you set this up to do tapers?
Sure, checkout this video: th-cam.com/video/03Jwoor4FDQ/w-d-xo.html and this one: th-cam.com/video/-9-djvLTVu0/w-d-xo.html. Thanks for watching.
Super mega diy.👏👏👏👏
Thanks for checking out this build!
Thanks for the video. This is on the list for attachments for the Revolution I just built. Just one nitpicky safety thing at 6:29. It is almost universally a bad idea to use the miter gauge and rip fence of a table saw at the same time. I mega cringe every time I see someone doing it.
This is certainly one of my most used attachments. Note, after I measure the aluminum with the fence, I loosen the fence so its not tight. It's not actually running against the fence at this point. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks With the saw you are using, i guess the fence would be light enough to be the most compliant in the event of a pinch. One of mine has a biesemeyer and the other has a rack and pinon fence. I give at least 3/4 extra clearance when crosscutting. You wouldn't believe how many people I have seen use a locked fence as a stop.
How critical is the 1.5 inch depth on the aluminum bar? I have a 1 3/8 and dont want to buy a new block
That isn’t going to work. Your holes drilled to hold the chuck to the rail are already 1/8” away from the side when it’s 1.5”. You can try it but I have my doubts.
you should try making a Alaskan Native harpoon tip with damascus
I’ll have to think about that one. Thanks for watching, Adam.
Hey can you make an Aztec sword please I really love your welding with videos please I really want to see you make an a aztec sword
I’d have to look up what an Aztec sword looks like. Maybe some day I’ll try one. Thanks for watching.
I have a 10” wheel set up I don’t use that much can I use it
You could, it’s a bit more cumbersome but it will work. Thanks for watching, Barry.
You could use a table saw to cut the grooves instead of a mill.
Yeah, I thought of that. It might work, but you’d probably go through a blade or two doing it. Thanks for watching.
verry good
Thanks for watching
спасибо классное и полезное видео лайк 👍
Спасибо за просмотр!
MUY BUEN DIA SEÑOR TYRELL.....HERMOSA PIEZA.....COMO CUANTO ME CUESTA PARA ACA A MEXICO ???UN GUSTO SALUDARLE.....
Sería mejor obtener las piezas allí o a través de Internet. El envío sería costoso. Gracias por ver.
You keep say in all your videos the the list of parts is in the description below. TH-cam seem to have taken that part out since they updated a while ago. No videos seem to have that part available any more if it’s there I can’t find it clicked on every avail button but no list of parts.
If anyone knows where it is let me know.
You need to expand the description. If you’re on mobile, there’s a “more…” you need to click. TH-cam has made the video description kinda hard to find. Thanks for watching.
Good 👍
Thanks for watching
Sweet…but how to do the power on off deal
Those are considerably more complex and expensive. This msg chuck is the right amount of power for things to stick but still easily removable. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks ok got it
I’ll likely grab a mag chuck 🍻
How You grind stainless steel?🤔
Stainless steel grinds just like regular steel. Some of the high end stainless knife steels are tougher to grind but still do quite easily. Thanks for watching
Muito bom !
Obrigado por dar uma olhada!
table saw, router, ect all cleanly cut aluminum
I wouldn't exactly say "cleanly" cut for a table saw. It'll do it, but it's a pain in the ass. The router will certainly work with a fence and a good bit. Thanks for watching, Kevin.
When all the banana trees are gone how will you measure anything ?
I have no idea what your comment means.
@@TyrellKnifeworks Inches? Get with the plan, only die hard idiots believe there is any future for a measurement system that may as well be based on the length of a banana but is actually based on the metric system. It makes you look stupid. Imperial references the metric system now, its like you standing up there talking about bananas when those bananas are measured in meters. And lets not forget about "Freedom" because the imperial system is about rich wealthy countries and corporations holding copies of the original Standard. While metric is a system where anyone can reference the standard as it is based on the world around us.
Panic over just found it, just had a stupid moment.
Glad you found it!
It's aluminum. Just put a good bit in a router and go to town on it.
Yes, that’s certainly possible, if you have a router table with a fence. Thanks for watching.
1
Thanks for watching!
👍👍👍👍👍
🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟
Thanks for watching!
Nice pain in my brain 😢😢🎉😮😅😮
I'm not quite sure what your comment means, but thanks for watching.
Uhhhhh Bro !
NEVER grind these Neodymium magnets !
The layer of Nickel they have is a protection from rust and realy thin.
If you reach the core of the magnets, they will corrode in no time !
PS: Break one in half so you see what i mean.
If you watched the video, I said right in it that’s why you recess the magnets into the aluminum so you don’t touch them. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks : Missed that, sorry.
Nice content
Thanks for taking a look!