Great video bud. The speed of everything was perfect and you explained everything amazingly. I just bought the same monometer and had no idea using it, I'm new to the field so this video helped out a lot.
You should turn on and Zero your Manomiter to the atmospheric pressure before your connection to the gas valve, and you should run the appliance for about 10 minutes at Maximum Rate to allow the burner and gas injector to become hot and expand to produce its true gas rate. You should always test all disturbed gas joints with Leak Detection Fluid after reconnecting any fittings, plugs, etc
excellent, well done actually & thanks for this. have you done a video for a tankless water system? We've got a propane tankless water heater that requires a 7/16" hose connector to the manometer. I've been give the WC stats: low -.06 and high -.07 with the gas inlet needing to be set at 12. Hoping to find a manometer online
I would think you would also want any other gas appliance (hot water heater , stove, gas FP, etc.)on and running at same time you are testing this valve?
Thank you for the video. May I know what gauge of your screwdriver to unscrew the adjustment cap on the gas valve? The cap seems very tight on my gas valve, and I am not able to unscrew it using a regular flathead screw.
First the video was great !!!! I have a question !!! When a heater ( furnace) first starts the burns turn on and after it reaches a temp in the heat exchanger the blower is suppose to turn on !!!! And after the heat exchager reachs set temp the burns stop the bullers keeps working till it cools the heat exchanger and start all ove4 again . Right. !!! I have a furnace that the blower turns on and a little bet after the burns turn !!! Which i think is wrong !!!!!! Trane / America standard model S8B1B080M4PSC. Any ideas
I just finished my new 2lb system last night. I had to adjust my maxitrol valves because they were factory set for natural gas at 8wc. I hooked up and turned the system on. Got a inlet reading of 8wc then adjusted to 11.13wc within the range of 11 to 14 for me. Then flipped the gas back off and checked the manifold side. Found 10.03 for high fire and 5 for low.
Out of curiosity why does the gas valve go out of adjustment? My mid efficiency never had that issues but my current Ameristar is a pain - gas valve always over 4 inches water column. Anyone help??
You would check the voltage at the gas valve when the board sends for gas to be released at the gas valve. If you have power there and the valve don’t work. It’s the valve. If you don’t get power at the time of the call, then you have a bad board
First-Channel-Lock is a name brand. the proper name is tongue and grove pliers. but I know what you meant. Second this is not the proper tool to use. Manny techs do not know which direction to hold the pliers for the proper grip. Even if you hold the tool in the proper direction eventually you will round out the corners of the brass fitting. Use an adjustable wrench or the proper size wrench. Third, the 3.5"wg is the valve recommended setting. Look at the manufacturer data tag for the proper manifold pressure setting.
For a person here with very little knowledge, this was very helpful. Thank you!
Great video bud. The speed of everything was perfect and you explained everything amazingly. I just bought the same monometer and had no idea using it, I'm new to the field so this video helped out a lot.
Is it a fluke?
@@fabricioJiuJitsu fieldpiece
You should turn on and Zero your Manomiter to the atmospheric pressure before your connection to the gas valve, and you should run the appliance for about 10 minutes at Maximum Rate to allow the burner and gas injector to become hot and expand to produce its true gas rate. You should always test all disturbed gas joints with Leak Detection Fluid after reconnecting any fittings, plugs, etc
I concur. This guy video gives improper procedure that can lead to mistakes and cost you a heater and labor and much headache.
simple clean and informative. Nice work.
Perfectly explained.. great job!! Thanks for sharing Master!!!👍👍👍👍
You’re actually a g. I needed a refresher for my 2nd heating season and you were right on point
Great explanation! One thing that should be mentioned is derating a furnace at higher altitudes
It’s also good to mention that pressures need to be adjusted to match certain altitudes
Please explain how. I want to learn. Thank you.
The panel on the furnace or the manual may have the derating values
excellent, well done actually & thanks for this. have you done a video for a tankless water system?
We've got a propane tankless water heater that requires a 7/16" hose connector to the manometer. I've been give the WC stats: low -.06 and high -.07 with the gas inlet needing to be set at 12. Hoping to find a manometer online
Thank you for your videos. Great tips! 😊
I would think you would also want any other gas appliance (hot water heater , stove, gas FP, etc.)on and running at same time you are testing this valve?
Great video, how about the inlet side?
Use adjustable wrench on brass fittings had 2 different instructor that would lost it seeing channel locks on brass fittings
Shouldn't you zero the manometer when it's open to atmosphere not when you are connected to the gas valve?
yes. He does not correct his mistake.
Hi, thanks for the great video. I’m curious, What are the downsides to having too much water column entering the unit?
Too much means it will burn very rich and can also cause the furnace to over heat
Your pressure was high at the start but should you adjust the pressure to what the furnace needs on the spec sheet?
Awesome video..Your a good teacher. 👍
Very well explain! great video. Thank you for sharing
Great video keep up the good work 👍
Awesome thanks for posting do you have one for the inlet pressure?
Thank you for the video. May I know what gauge of your screwdriver to unscrew the adjustment cap on the gas valve? The cap seems very tight on my gas valve, and I am not able to unscrew it using a regular flathead screw.
Great Explanation enjoyed .
Yes for pressure switch test! Thanks
Great vid thanks going to invest had a static pressure problem today thought it was the indoor tub turned out to be a damn return filter 😂😂😂🤣🤣🤣
thanks man, this helps me out a lot
First the video was great !!!! I have a question !!! When a heater ( furnace) first starts the burns turn on and after it reaches a temp in the heat exchanger the blower is suppose to turn on !!!! And after the heat exchager reachs set temp the burns stop the bullers keeps working till it cools the heat exchanger and start all ove4 again . Right. !!! I have a furnace that the blower turns on and a little bet after the burns turn !!! Which i think is wrong !!!!!! Trane / America standard model S8B1B080M4PSC. Any ideas
Great video, but what about the inlet pressure? Also Please do a video using the pressure switch tester.
I just finished my new 2lb system last night. I had to adjust my maxitrol valves because they were factory set for natural gas at 8wc. I hooked up and turned the system on. Got a inlet reading of 8wc then adjusted to 11.13wc within the range of 11 to 14 for me. Then flipped the gas back off and checked the manifold side. Found 10.03 for high fire and 5 for low.
Thanks you’re very helpful
my manometer doenst jave the INWC setting.what should i use?
Do you set the pressure based on the gas valve or on the pressure recommended by the furnace unit ?
Where do you get the screw fitting for that connects to manometer hose
Is it necessary to check the inlet pressure or just the outlet pressure?
great information brother
Is the Fieldpiece SDMN 6 worth double the cost of the SDMN 5?
Great video. Thank you.
I have a Honeywell gas valve VR8205S2353. I don’t see a place on the gas valve to connect with the manometer. Please help. Thank you.
What settings does the manometer have to be on to read W.C.?
On my meter, it says inH2O
Thanks my friend for your tips.
Any time
Where can I get that plastic attachment with that fitting?
No pipe dope on the barb fitting that you put in there for the hose?
no
can we use manometer for some corrosive gases like vehicle smoke exhaust
if you set it to 3.5 and keeps going up alot after you adjusted to 3.5. can it be a bad gas valve?
Yea
Great video, well done
Great vid🎉
I need to know WHEN you need to check the gas pressure.
Out of curiosity why does the gas valve go out of adjustment? My mid efficiency never had that issues but my current Ameristar is a pain - gas valve always over 4 inches water column. Anyone help??
My manometer doesn't have P1 it has + and - which one do I use to check WC?
Mine came with clear and yellow hose… does it matter which I use?
What should the w.c be for the inlet
Between 7 and 15
what valve is it?
If using LP gas, what should the water column be at AFTER the gas valve?
Usually around 10” w.c. But some manufacturers are different. You would have to look it up online to know for sure
Great Vid. Thanks!!
Awesome man thanks!!!
Excellent!
Thank you man
Great vdieo
How can you tell if it's the gas valve that's bad? Would it not turn the furnace on?
You would check the voltage at the gas valve when the board sends for gas to be released at the gas valve. If you have power there and the valve don’t work. It’s the valve. If you don’t get power at the time of the call, then you have a bad board
@@HVACTechTips I appreciate it thanks
Clock wise or counter clock wise?
CCW will turn down the pressure. CC will turn it up
Thank you
Good video
Thank you.
You forgot to.mention where to set your manometer to
❤❤❤❤❤❤
"pap dope"
Kentucky accent.
Lol Georgia!
Do you have a email I can ask question at
Yes. It’s hvactechtips1@gmail.com
First-Channel-Lock is a name brand. the proper name is tongue and grove pliers. but I know what you meant. Second this is not the proper tool to use. Manny techs do not know which direction to hold the pliers for the proper grip. Even if you hold the tool in the proper direction eventually you will round out the corners of the brass fitting. Use an adjustable wrench or the proper size wrench. Third, the 3.5"wg is the valve recommended setting. Look at the manufacturer data tag for the proper manifold pressure setting.