I would not recommend brushing it on; the pigment particles will most likely mix with the varnish and then smudge along with the brush strokes. With a sprayed varnish (in light several light coats, and letting it dry between the spray sessions) the varnish mist will settle and stay right on the spot where it is sprayed. Hope this helps.
This is a very good and simple technique. I have been using them for my German WWII tanks for many years. I think the result is better than airbrushing.
Super vidéo again very helpful for me cause i continue to work only with brush and and sprays . Thanks a lot to share . I'm impatient to see the next !
I was thinking about the use of pigments for camo, and then I found some models by someone on the web who has been using this trick for over 7 years. I'm surprised this technique isn't used more often by modellers; it's so easy yet effective, and a lot cheaper than an airbrush.
Greetings from Taiwan. Courtesy of TH-cam recommendation. Fantastic methods of hand print camouflage. Thank you for your sharing. I'm getting lazy of airbrush, vacuum cleaning the room before use, set up ventilation, cleaning and washing the tools after use. So I will definitely use the sponge method for darker surface and dry pastels method for lighter surface for my next project. I mainly build 1/72 airplanes and 1/144 for larger planes, and also AFVs. I presume they can also apply to AFVs modelling? I have subscribed to your channel.
Greetings, and thanks for the sub! I have also used the technique on a Kübelwagen, so that works. One thing to keep in mind; the mottle spots will come out a bit darker after spraying on the layer of varnish.
Well, this was a timely view! I have just pre-shaded the panel lines on an Me-262 and will need to do SOME mottling at the interface of the underside colour and the topside. The big trick will be to acquire pastels which match. Thanks
You're welcome! It is possible to tweak the colour powders a little bit by using similar shades, but note that if the contrast between the mixed powders is very high, you might end up with a 'salt and pepper' effect. Although that could work just fine for a gritty dust effect, it may be less suited for a smooth mottle effect. Hope this helps.
You mean the sponge method camo vid? It depends; this dry pastel technique gives a nicer subtle effect, but it doesn't work that good if you want to apply light spots on a dark surface. In that case it's probably better to use the sponge method. But for dark spots on a light surface, I'd advise this method.
Will a can of Flat-Matt Topcoat work in place of varnish, or is varnish required? Thank you for the great video by the way, trying this technique out with a Macchi C.200 kit I've been working on
While a matt coat will work sealing the dry pastel mottle that was applied, I use a gloss/semi gloss coat at this stage because of the next step, which is adding the decals. Decals work better on a glossy surface as it helps to prevent silvering of the carrier film. I usually apply a matt topcoat over that as the final layer. Good luck with your build!
Hi! The question I'm about to ask may sound really stupid to you but I'll explain why I'm asking it at the end of the comment. Are you using chalk sticks like the ones you would use on a blackboard or dry pastels like the one kids would use to draw on paper? English is not my main language so I had some difficulties.
That's a perfectly viable question; the artist's dry pastels used in the video typically have a high pigment load, and are somewhat 'powdery' to the touch. They are round like blackboard chalk sticks, but much softer. The dry pastels often seen in kid's colouring boxes are often square in section and a bit harder as well.
Привет! Жаль, что я не понимаю английский!! Ваш метод, что Вы сейчас показали, для меня ооочень важен!!!! У меня нет аэрографа и пятна камуфляжа не знал,как делать . Чем Вы разбавляли и что за краска или пигмент ???
Привет! Я не знаю русского, поэтому использую гугл переводчик. 😉 Пигменты, использованные в этом видео, представляют собой только порошок от меловых палочек; другие разведения не используются. Два важных момента, если вы не говорите по-английски; этот метод лучше всего работает, если основной красочный слой - матовый акрил. А также не забудьте аккуратно покрыть свою работу тонким слоем аэрозольного лака, чтобы порошок не растаял.
Намного проще обзавестись аэрографом, не такие уж и больщие деньги Даже компрессор можно не покупать, а использовать его от брошенного холодильника И ДАЖЕ ДОГОВОРИТЬСЯ с мастером=ремонтником холодильников. Поверьте, аэрограф , точнее работа с ним, не так сложна, как кажется, даже показанный здесь способ более сложен, чем работа с аэром. Как говорится, не боги горшки....
Привет ! Интересный метод Вы показываете, очень интересный !! Я не хочу окрашивать модели аэрографом , окрашиваются только кистью, но камуфляжные пятна не знал ,как сделать более реалистично и Вы показали, браво 👍
Hello buddy, what a great little technique. I've been modelling since, I'd say I was about 7 or 8. I'm 38 now, (I know, I know I only look 21) ha ha. But I've been modelling more seriously for the last 3 years. So when I say seriously I mean more paints, airbrush, buy research material, books magazines etc, even started this, my own TH-cam channel. I have never seen anyone do this before. I hope you and your family are all well, fit and healthy during this awful time. I've subbed to you my friend. Stay safe and looking forward to seeing more videos from you. Stay safe buddy
Thanks! I wondered if pastels for weathering and staining could be used for camo, and a quick search told me that one modeler already had good success with it several years ago; his work can be found on several online fora. I was a bit surprised that this method apparently isn't used so widely, as it is very easy and yields nice results. I tweaked the execution a bit to my taste. Best of luck in these challenging times.
"Looks so italian!" On a plane with Hungarian Royal Air Force markings. :) ;) ofc. The plane istelf is Italian. Btw. Really good tutorial, helped so much, thank you for it!
Stunning! gotta try this out...thanks!
Thanks, and you're welcome!
Hi. A very interesting tutorial. I have thought about using this technique on my small scale vehicles. I think that I will giv it a go. Thanks.
You're welcome! A while back I have used this technique on a 1/72 Kübelwagen, so it should work. Good luck!👍
Hi, can you seal it by brushing the varnish on?
I would not recommend brushing it on; the pigment particles will most likely mix with the varnish and then smudge along with the brush strokes. With a sprayed varnish (in light several light coats, and letting it dry between the spray sessions) the varnish mist will settle and stay right on the spot where it is sprayed.
Hope this helps.
This is a very good and simple technique. I have been using them for my German WWII tanks for many years. I think the result is better than airbrushing.
Great video...I have used dry pastels for engine exhaust and weathering but never though about using it this way...thank you!
Thanks! It is actually not that different from making exhaust stains except from the used colours.
Great tutorial, thank you!
You're welcome! 👍
Super vidéo again very helpful for me cause i continue to work only with brush and and sprays . Thanks a lot to share . I'm impatient to see the next !
You're welcome, and good luck with this technique!
Thanks for posting! Amazing work!
Thanks much!
Awesome! Almost 60 and the idea never occurred to me and yet, it is so logical !!
I was thinking about the use of pigments for camo, and then I found some models by someone on the web who has been using this trick for over 7 years. I'm surprised this technique isn't used more often by modellers; it's so easy yet effective, and a lot cheaper than an airbrush.
Original idea and very nice work !
Thanks! Not entirely my idea though :-)
Greetings from Taiwan. Courtesy of TH-cam recommendation. Fantastic methods of hand print camouflage. Thank you for your sharing. I'm getting lazy of airbrush, vacuum cleaning the room before use, set up ventilation, cleaning and washing the tools after use. So I will definitely use the sponge method for darker surface and dry pastels method for lighter surface for my next project. I mainly build 1/72 airplanes and 1/144 for larger planes, and also AFVs. I presume they can also apply to AFVs modelling? I have subscribed to your channel.
Greetings, and thanks for the sub!
I have also used the technique on a Kübelwagen, so that works. One thing to keep in mind; the mottle spots will come out a bit darker after spraying on the layer of varnish.
Well, this was a timely view! I have just pre-shaded the panel lines on an Me-262 and will need to do SOME mottling at the interface of the underside colour and the topside. The big trick will be to acquire pastels which match. Thanks
You're welcome!
It is possible to tweak the colour powders a little bit by using similar shades, but note that if the contrast between the mixed powders is very high, you might end up with a 'salt and pepper' effect. Although that could work just fine for a gritty dust effect, it may be less suited for a smooth mottle effect.
Hope this helps.
@@KitKabinet Thanks.
Do you think this is a better technique than your last video mate
You mean the sponge method camo vid? It depends; this dry pastel technique gives a nicer subtle effect, but it doesn't work that good if you want to apply light spots on a dark surface. In that case it's probably better to use the sponge method. But for dark spots on a light surface, I'd advise this method.
it works! thank you very much :)
You're welcome! In fact I prefer this method over my airbrush for mottle camo 👍
Will a can of Flat-Matt Topcoat work in place of varnish, or is varnish required? Thank you for the great video by the way, trying this technique out with a Macchi C.200 kit I've been working on
While a matt coat will work sealing the dry pastel mottle that was applied, I use a gloss/semi gloss coat at this stage because of the next step, which is adding the decals. Decals work better on a glossy surface as it helps to prevent silvering of the carrier film. I usually apply a matt topcoat over that as the final layer.
Good luck with your build!
@@KitKabinet Alright, thank you for the guidance and such a fast response!
Hi! The question I'm about to ask may sound really stupid to you but I'll explain why I'm asking it at the end of the comment. Are you using chalk sticks like the ones you would use on a blackboard or dry pastels like the one kids would use to draw on paper? English is not my main language so I had some difficulties.
That's a perfectly viable question; the artist's dry pastels used in the video typically have a high pigment load, and are somewhat 'powdery' to the touch. They are round like blackboard chalk sticks, but much softer. The dry pastels often seen in kid's colouring boxes are often square in section and a bit harder as well.
@@KitKabinet oh ok now I get it. Thx a lot
Nice. Thanks for sharing
You're welcome!
Original idea great tecnic !!!
Thanks!
Привет! Жаль, что я не понимаю английский!! Ваш метод, что Вы сейчас показали, для меня ооочень важен!!!! У меня нет аэрографа и пятна камуфляжа не знал,как делать . Чем Вы разбавляли и что за краска или пигмент ???
Привет! Я не знаю русского, поэтому использую гугл переводчик. 😉 Пигменты, использованные в этом видео, представляют собой только порошок от меловых палочек; другие разведения не используются. Два важных момента, если вы не говорите по-английски; этот метод лучше всего работает, если основной красочный слой - матовый акрил. А также не забудьте аккуратно покрыть свою работу тонким слоем аэрозольного лака, чтобы порошок не растаял.
Намного проще обзавестись аэрографом, не такие уж и больщие деньги Даже компрессор можно не покупать, а использовать его от брошенного холодильника И ДАЖЕ ДОГОВОРИТЬСЯ с мастером=ремонтником холодильников. Поверьте, аэрограф , точнее работа с ним, не так сложна, как кажется, даже показанный здесь способ более сложен, чем работа с аэром. Как говорится, не боги горшки....
Привет ! Интересный метод Вы показываете, очень интересный !! Я не хочу окрашивать модели аэрографом , окрашиваются только кистью, но камуфляжные пятна не знал ,как сделать более реалистично и Вы показали, браво 👍
Спасибо, я рад, что смог помочь! Я часто использую эти методы вместе; Аэрограф, обычная кисть и меловая пудра на одной модели.
Вы действительно ПРИНЦИПИАЛЬНО не хотите красить аэром ? Или боитесь его ?
Looks really good!
Thanks!
excellent work!
Thank you!
Hello buddy, what a great little technique. I've been modelling since, I'd say I was about 7 or 8. I'm 38 now, (I know, I know I only look 21) ha ha. But I've been modelling more seriously for the last 3 years. So when I say seriously I mean more paints, airbrush, buy research material, books magazines etc, even started this, my own TH-cam channel. I have never seen anyone do this before. I hope you and your family are all well, fit and healthy during this awful time. I've subbed to you my friend. Stay safe and looking forward to seeing more videos from you. Stay safe buddy
Thanks!
I wondered if pastels for weathering and staining could be used for camo, and a quick search told me that one modeler already had good success with it several years ago; his work can be found on several online fora. I was a bit surprised that this method apparently isn't used so widely, as it is very easy and yields nice results. I tweaked the execution a bit to my taste.
Best of luck in these challenging times.
"Looks so italian!" On a plane with Hungarian Royal Air Force markings. :) ;) ofc. The plane istelf is Italian. Btw. Really good tutorial, helped so much, thank you for it!
You're welcome! And it's indeed surprising that the Hungarian Air Force made much better use of the Reggiane than the Italians themselves.