Hey, Jeremy! Thanks for this one! I had a Tecumseh pump that didn’t seem to be working on a Tecumseh v-twin engine. It took long crank times to get the engine to fire. I took the pump apart and found fine debris inside but close inspection showed no damage to diaphragms or check valves. Cleaned it up good including ultrasonic, sprayed with a bit of fuel on all surfaces, reassembled and started to mount back on the engine but found the last 1/4 inch of fuel line to the carbs was cracked so I cut that off and completed connecting. Full choke, full throttle, key on and she fired after one crank revolution! Stopped and restarted multiple times cold and then hot with no further issues so I have to believe it was a small leak in the hose causing the problem.
Yep, those fuel pumps can be little buggers. They are hit or miss as some last less than a year and some can last over forty years like the one on my 1969 Wheel Horse. Thanks for the info! 👍
I'd previously replaced everything from pickup tube to new gas line and filter, but the mower always took a long time to crank when it's been sitting for several weeks. Yeah these are self priming but only when the engine is cranking. Solved that with a Facet electric fuel pump.
Great video thank you. Can you tell me if it matters whether the tank is above or below the pump - so either the pump is sucking the fuel out of the tank or the fuel flows by gravity (as well as suction) to the pump. Based on how it works, it doesn’t look like it would matter, but you would know better than me. Thanks
Thank you! This is an excellent video. I wish more of those who give DIY instructables break down the mechanical operation and theory of operation as defined as you. There is much more clarity and understanding to what this mechanism is supposed to do but also instructs as to why something (the broke part or replaced part) maybe doing other things.
great explanation. I just purchased a similar fuel pump for my skidoo except that outlet with the bend at 90 degrees positioned on its side is pointing up on the new pump I purchased. Supplier says its similar to my OEM. The problem is that it wont fit in its original location with that outlet pointing up. Can it be rotated without damaging it.
Does a longer pulse hose cause problems ? I re routed it along the frame, or adding a breather to my valve cover that was hooked to the intake ? Didnt like the oild residue in the carb/intake.. having issues of running out of gas when running it hard for any length of time, no governor so it revs up to 3500 rpm. Works great any other time. 2008 Kawasaki FJ400D 13hp engine in a 1991 Club Car DS with 22" heavy mud tires.
Thank you for this video I have a generator and it is brand new and the crank case filled with gas and I thought this is what it was but didn't think it could have been because it is new. Does the pulse come from a crank case that is filled with oil? Or from the intake? I am going to take the bad one apart and see if the diaphragm is broken. 😊
Excellently detailed video and explanation - liked and subscribed FOR SURE! A question: Do the Mikuni pump mounting bolt holes match the cheap plastic bolt holes? Hose lengths or orientation are not a problem - my 2 Kawi-V engines' plastic fuel pumps may be big-time problems in the future though...
Can you explain the club car with the button primer? I’m guessing it’s tied into the pulse line. My club car is a bear to get started , carb was rebuilt, new fuel pump, fuel lines are clear but it just doesn’t seem to be getting enough fuel. I’m thinking the primer button is absorbing the pulse from the engine or possibly an air leak is messing up the pulse. I don’t want to tear into it without having an idea how it works. Thanks
I have Mikuni fuel pumps on my Rotax 582 and Rotax 503 engines, both with dual Bing 54 Carburetors that specify fuel pressure from 3-6psi. Wondering what the capability of the Mikuni fuel pumps are? These are pulse pumps with short pulse lines. The pumps are mounted near the engines and the fuel lift is about 3ft. What are the fuel pressure specifications for these pumps under your "standard conditions"? I plan to install fuel pressure gauges to monitor fuel pressure, and am wondering what "normal" pressure should be? Thanks for any help!
My cart Yamaha g16 I believe gas want pull fuel from tank. If I prime it it will run poorly until it loses its prime again. Carb and pump are a few years old. They seem to still be ok. Should I replace my fuel lines or tank pickup? Thanks for your help
Please tell the lift driver to STOP for awhile whilst we listen to your video :) Thanks for the video. Just wanted to see how this thing works on the inside. And, it's exactly as I suspected... just wanted to be sure. Cheers dude ;)
My 1998 ez go will start for about 30 seconds then not again until a few hours later . I replaced the fuel pump , carburetor, plugs , solenoid .. still same issue .. i only use ethanol free gas
Question, are these supposed to cut off fuel when there is no vacuum applied? I bought a replacement that just flows right through from gravity and I wanted to use it as a fuel cutoff for when the engine is not running as I have a unfindable sporadic float valve issue that has been driving me buts for 2 years after 3 Rebuilds!!! And I cannot find a reasonable vacuum cutoff for a 1000cc engine below a hundred bucks.
@@truenorthmuskoka9077 That's one of the things he messed up on at the end of the video. One of the purposes of the pump is to cut off fuel flow if the engine is not running for safety. If you look at a Polaris ATV, the petcock is often impossible to get to, as if there is no need for it. So if the pump is working properly, it can't flow fuel if there is no vacuum to activate it.
The problem I'm having is getting fuel to the carb. It seems very weak. My gues is that my fuel line to the pump is about 3 feet long meaning the pump has to draw or pull up fuel the distance of 3 feet through a 1/4" i.d. line. I really have no choice. The tank has to be lower than the engine. In addition to the 3 foot climb, there is 10 feet of fuel line total before it has to make that 3ft climb. My question is there a mechanical pulse pump strong enough to do this? Or do I need an electric pump only? The stock plastic pump does deliver fuel but just barley. It sometimes stops pumping and I have to rev the engine to get it to pump before the carb bowl empties but this is not acceptable to me.
Can you link me to a rebuild kit for those? The Briggs parts site only shows a plastic replacement for the entire pump. All I need is the interior diaphram and such.
Got a problem on my exmsrk where my impulse line has no vacuum and pulls no fuel through the pump. But I can feel the impulses from the oil drain hose.
so what you are saying is that if you have a fuel tank capable of gravity feeding the carb, bypass the fuel pump so you dont kill the bearings in the motor?
Where does that pulse line connect to crankcase? 2009 Hisun 700 Big Muddy. Fuel issue and pulse line broken. Where does it connect too? Replaced pump and even auxillary tank, same issue
Is it possible for reed valves to cause a problem with the pulse signal? I have a 2 stroke engine (outboard) that runs fine except at idle, where it idles fine for a bit but then starves for fuel and stalls. I can keep the engine idling indefinitely by giving the primer bulb a squeeze whenever the idle starts slowing down. Once the engine is off idle it runs fine and seems to have good power (boat top speed is same as it ever was and it planes or pulls up a skier no problem). I replaced the fuel pump and there was no improvement. I then built a hybrid fuel pump using the new diaphragms but the old check valves (rubber, the new ones were plastic with a spring) and now it is idling indefinitely but I don't think it will last and I'm not sure why the new pump with the new check valves wouldn't work as it came in the box. Or am I looking at low compression? It is 105psi cold. There is definitely a pulse coming from the crankcase when the engine cranks, but I don't know if it is enough pressure. I also replaced the fuel line with the primer bulb, which made no difference.
@@grazz7865 the sea foam has actually made quite a difference, but I’m also now running about a half turn rich. Do you think more sea foam, or do I need to rebuild? Anyway the sea foam and running rich has made a world of difference. Also set the timing which was too far advanced for some reason. I set it to spec at idle, and close as I could at WOT.
@@Nonplused run the tank empty before adding more seafoam. You don’t want too much seafoam to fuel ratio. Bad fuel can also cause issues so run the tank empty or drain it if it’s less than a 1/4 tank.
@@grazz7865 I’ve been running the boat so the fuel is fresh and the sea foam is just through last tank. I’ve got marine fuel in this tank since that is available here. It is running and starting much better, maybe I’ll set the pilot screws back and see where I’m at. It still won’t idle in gear for long but if I bump it to 1000 rpm I can putt along indefinitely and it idles indefinitely not in gear. One thing I’m not sure about is with it running rich is the oil mixture. It is oil injected so I think it gets the same oil no matter how much fuel. It still smokes a bit though so there is oil but it might be lean. Thoughts?
Great explanation of how the fuel pump works except I just replaced one on my Yamaha golf cart yesterday and the inlet and outlet was labeled and it's reversed from what you are saying. mine is working great.
I have a 2019 Scag 48" walkbehind, SWZT48-541FS, Kawasaki FS541V. Pull-cord. I open the choke. When I try to start it, it will NOT start. However, if I add 1 teaspoon of fuel into carburetor, it fires/starts. After engine has been running a short while, it will restart withOUT adding fuel directly into the carburetor. I have been doing this for 1-year. Why does it need to be manually primed to start? Is the fuel-pump, Kawasaki 49040-7008 Fuel Pump, likely the problem or more likely the fuel line or something else? BTW, I have changed the fuel filter and I had an ultrasonic cleaning of the carburetor. Those did not help the issue. Thank you!
i have been on a hour search to find out why fuel is coming out of the pressure release and i now know why… i have a cheap no name one so that probably doesn’t help but i now know that it isn’t normal and that my fuel pump is messed all the way up😭
I have a JD 160 lawn tractor and I don't get gas to the carburetor. I put a new fuel pump on and it went around the yard about 4 times and quit.. Is there a way to test the vacuum that runs the pump? And is there anything else I can try?
this is a common misconception about those fuel pumps they don’t have vacuum they have positive and negative pulses from the crank case. Every time the piston goes up and down. It creates a suction and a pressure. You can test this by putting a vacuum gauge on the hose and crank the engine over to see if the needle fluctuates positive and negative, but I would be leaning more towards a restriction in the fuel pick up, so check for an obstruction from the gas tank to the fuel pump
@THEMOWERMEDIC1 Thank you. You know I put the fuel line that led for the gas tank that was about eighty inches long into a glass of gasoline, it didn't pump up the gasoline to go into the pump.
@@THEMOWERMEDIC1 i’m a heavy equipment OO mobile mechanic, 12 hp Kawasaki runs good but won’t lift fuel from tank if I put pulse hose in my mouth it pours out a full hose of fuel? Only trickles when turning engine over, R&R pump diaphragms seems good but maybe doesn’t flex enough, it is an old pump seems a Sensitive vacuum/pressure gauge could guarantee the right pulse at the pump, new pump on order I will see but hate doing the throwing parts thing :).
Hey chief have a question hope you could help me with I have a Hobart champion 145 welder/generator it has a 11 hp briggs and stratton engine unfortunately the owner ran it without oil so my question is can I install any size engine in it or would I need to find something similar to it and how about the crank shaft does it have to be the same length size it's that I try looking up videos on engine swap for generator can't find none that will help me
@@StonemanRocks Thanks Stoneman, Since I had ask you, I realized mine had lost its prime after a bad fuel line from the tank. With air pressure added in the tank for repriming, mine went to working just fine again. I sure was glad! 😊 Phillip Hall
@@THEMOWERMEDIC1 sorry I just now saw your?? He didn’t have streamyard going tonight. Thanks for stopping by. I thought he would have streamyard going so u big dogs can get on and answer ?’s. Thanks again
@@THEMOWERMEDIC1 I’ve been watching you for years now. I consider u a legend. Top Dog in Small engines. Thanks again for all your hard work in making videos. U were one of the first that I started watching on TH-cam
You need to see a doctor about you fingernails. That lloks like a fungus infection. Four pill , one pill each week will cure that. I'm just trying to be helpul. This post is not meant to be disrespecful in any way.
![No more vacuum fuel pump problems! GY6 Won’t start: FIX! [PROBLD PULSER UNIT]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/I_k3jgNswCU/mqdefault.jpg)
![No more vacuum fuel pump problems! GY6 Won’t start: FIX! [PROBLD PULSER UNIT]](/img/tr.png)
![[TH] 2024 PMGC League | Survival Stage วันที่ 1 | PUBG MOBILE Global Championship](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/FVFT-PFwU80/mqdefault.jpg)
what a fantastic, simple, straight-forward explanation. Thank you.
Excellent video. This is the first time I have seen one of these taken apart and explained. Great job. Thanks for the info and video.
Awesome man! It takes one guy who is willing to be a good man and help out with a video like this!! Thanks!!!
Hey, Jeremy! Thanks for this one! I had a Tecumseh pump that didn’t seem to be working on a Tecumseh v-twin engine. It took long crank times to get the engine to fire. I took the pump apart and found fine debris inside but close inspection showed no damage to diaphragms or check valves. Cleaned it up good including ultrasonic, sprayed with a bit of fuel on all surfaces, reassembled and started to mount back on the engine but found the last 1/4 inch of fuel line to the carbs was cracked so I cut that off and completed connecting. Full choke, full throttle, key on and she fired after one crank revolution! Stopped and restarted multiple times cold and then hot with no further issues so I have to believe it was a small leak in the hose causing the problem.
I have had fuel get into the crankcase, that has always been a big mystery as to how in the hell that happened! Thanks for clearing that up.
Yep, those fuel pumps can be little buggers. They are hit or miss as some last less than a year and some can last over forty years like the one on my 1969 Wheel Horse. Thanks for the info! 👍
RIGHT TO THE POINT, NO BS BLAH BLAH HEAD TALKING !!
Best explanation of how it works I've ever het,,period !!!! Thank you
I'd previously replaced everything from pickup tube to new gas line and filter, but the mower always took a long time to crank when it's been sitting for several weeks. Yeah these are self priming but only when the engine is cranking. Solved that with a Facet electric fuel pump.
Great video thank you. Can you tell me if it matters whether the tank is above or below the pump - so either the pump is sucking the fuel out of the tank or the fuel flows by gravity (as well as suction) to the pump. Based on how it works, it doesn’t look like it would matter, but you would know better than me. Thanks
Fantastic. This video helped me understand the just how urgent the small leak at my fuel pump vent really is.
Thank you! This is an excellent video. I wish more of those who give DIY instructables break down the mechanical operation and theory of operation as defined as you. There is much more clarity and understanding to what this mechanism is supposed to do but also instructs as to why something (the broke part or replaced part) maybe doing other things.
Thanks! I watched 3-4 other videos previously and none answered my questions until this one. 👍
Just bought a mower I’m seeing fuel pouring out of that vent thing, the thing will run but soon as I give it load it stalls out, thank you!
Great Job! This guy explains every detail well.... even the Name type.....and consequences.... shares his knowledge well! Thank You
Awesome video. I kept flooding my crankcase on my arctic cat. Pulled the pumps apart and even though the diaphragm looks good , evidently it's not.
great explanation. I just purchased a similar fuel pump for my skidoo except that outlet with the bend at 90 degrees positioned on its side is pointing up on the new pump I purchased. Supplier says its similar to my OEM. The problem is that it wont fit in its original location with that outlet pointing up. Can it be rotated without damaging it.
Very informative. Very easy to watch, understand, and feel the value of information provided. Great job.
I really appreciate you taking the time to make this video
I agree and am appreciative and thankful too. Phillip Hall
Great video bro.. Simple and to the point w/ good explanation of fail points
Thanks for the video, I did not realize that they built rebuildables fuel pumps.
Does a longer pulse hose cause problems ? I re routed it along the frame, or adding a breather to my valve cover that was hooked to the intake ? Didnt like the oild residue in the carb/intake.. having issues of running out of gas when running it hard for any length of time, no governor so it revs up to 3500 rpm. Works great any other time.
2008 Kawasaki FJ400D 13hp engine in a 1991 Club Car DS with 22" heavy mud tires.
Thank you for this video I have a generator and it is brand new and the crank case filled with gas and I thought this is what it was but didn't think it could have been because it is new. Does the pulse come from a crank case that is filled with oil? Or from the intake? I am going to take the bad one apart and see if the diaphragm is broken. 😊
Excellently detailed video and explanation - liked and subscribed FOR SURE!
A question: Do the Mikuni pump mounting bolt holes match the cheap plastic bolt holes? Hose lengths or orientation are not a problem - my 2 Kawi-V engines' plastic fuel pumps may be big-time problems in the future though...
Put 2 of them together and you have a mechanical heart :)
...... Six million mower man.
Can you explain the club car with the button primer? I’m guessing it’s tied into the pulse line. My club car is a bear to get started , carb was rebuilt, new fuel pump, fuel lines are clear but it just doesn’t seem to be getting enough fuel. I’m thinking the primer button is absorbing the pulse from the engine or possibly an air leak is messing up the pulse. I don’t want to tear into it without having an idea how it works. Thanks
You are super smart man thank you so much for your video
I have Mikuni fuel pumps on my Rotax 582 and Rotax 503 engines, both with dual Bing 54 Carburetors that specify fuel pressure from 3-6psi. Wondering what the capability of the Mikuni fuel pumps are? These are pulse pumps with short pulse lines. The pumps are mounted near the engines and the fuel lift is about 3ft. What are the fuel pressure specifications for these pumps under your "standard conditions"? I plan to install fuel pressure gauges to monitor fuel pressure, and am wondering what "normal" pressure should be? Thanks for any help!
My cart Yamaha g16 I believe gas want pull fuel from tank. If I prime it it will run poorly until it loses its prime again. Carb and pump are a few years old. They seem to still be ok. Should I replace my fuel lines or tank pickup? Thanks for your help
Please tell the lift driver to STOP for awhile whilst we listen to your video :)
Thanks for the video.
Just wanted to see how this thing works on the inside.
And, it's exactly as I suspected... just wanted to be sure.
Cheers dude ;)
My 1998 ez go will start for about 30 seconds then not again until a few hours later . I replaced the fuel pump , carburetor, plugs , solenoid .. still same issue .. i only use ethanol free gas
Thanks for sharing that, very good to know! 👍👍
Yet another great explanation. Well put 👏 MM1
Very good explanation.
Question, are these supposed to cut off fuel when there is no vacuum applied?
I bought a replacement that just flows right through from gravity and I wanted to use it as a fuel cutoff for when the engine is not running as I have a unfindable sporadic float valve issue that has been driving me buts for 2 years after 3 Rebuilds!!!
And I cannot find a reasonable vacuum cutoff for a 1000cc engine below a hundred bucks.
it should not flow through unless the engine is turning producing the pulse. Your diaphragm and check valve may be shot.
@@truenorthmuskoka9077 That's one of the things he messed up on at the end of the video. One of the purposes of the pump is to cut off fuel flow if the engine is not running for safety. If you look at a Polaris ATV, the petcock is often impossible to get to, as if there is no need for it. So if the pump is working properly, it can't flow fuel if there is no vacuum to activate it.
Thank you simple and too the point just what I needed
Very nice. Thanks for making this!
Great explanation, well spoken
The problem I'm having is getting fuel to the carb. It seems very weak. My gues is that my fuel line to the pump is about 3 feet long meaning the pump has to draw or pull up fuel the distance of 3 feet through a 1/4" i.d. line. I really have no choice. The tank has to be lower than the engine. In addition to the 3 foot climb, there is 10 feet of fuel line total before it has to make that 3ft climb. My question is there a mechanical pulse pump strong enough to do this? Or do I need an electric pump only? The stock plastic pump does deliver fuel but just barley. It sometimes stops pumping and I have to rev the engine to get it to pump before the carb bowl empties but this is not acceptable to me.
Can you link me to a rebuild kit for those? The Briggs parts site only shows a plastic replacement for the entire pump. All I need is the interior diaphram and such.
Got a problem on my exmsrk where my impulse line has no vacuum and pulls no fuel through the pump. But I can feel the impulses from the oil drain hose.
Nice tutorial! Thanks for the info.
My original fuel pump is mounted inside fuel tank, and I bought dellorto P34 pump as replacement. Can I submerge it in fuel and mount the same way?
so what you are saying is that if you have a fuel tank capable of gravity feeding the carb, bypass the fuel pump so you dont kill the bearings in the motor?
Pay attention when the fuel pump fails sometimes the fuel will run right down to the engine into the oil causing bearing damage
Thank you. Well explained.
Where does that pulse line connect to crankcase? 2009 Hisun 700 Big Muddy. Fuel issue and pulse line broken. Where does it connect too? Replaced pump and even auxillary tank, same issue
Great video friend ThankYou!
Is it possible for reed valves to cause a problem with the pulse signal? I have a 2 stroke engine (outboard) that runs fine except at idle, where it idles fine for a bit but then starves for fuel and stalls. I can keep the engine idling indefinitely by giving the primer bulb a squeeze whenever the idle starts slowing down. Once the engine is off idle it runs fine and seems to have good power (boat top speed is same as it ever was and it planes or pulls up a skier no problem). I replaced the fuel pump and there was no improvement. I then built a hybrid fuel pump using the new diaphragms but the old check valves (rubber, the new ones were plastic with a spring) and now it is idling indefinitely but I don't think it will last and I'm not sure why the new pump with the new check valves wouldn't work as it came in the box. Or am I looking at low compression? It is 105psi cold. There is definitely a pulse coming from the crankcase when the engine cranks, but I don't know if it is enough pressure. I also replaced the fuel line with the primer bulb, which made no difference.
Sounds more like the pilot jet in the carburetor is dirty. Try a little seafoam in your fuel tank to clean it out.
@@grazz7865 the sea foam has actually made quite a difference, but I’m also now running about a half turn rich. Do you think more sea foam, or do I need to rebuild? Anyway the sea foam and running rich has made a world of difference. Also set the timing which was too far advanced for some reason. I set it to spec at idle, and close as I could at WOT.
@@Nonplused run the tank empty before adding more seafoam. You don’t want too much seafoam to fuel ratio. Bad fuel can also cause issues so run the tank empty or drain it if it’s less than a 1/4 tank.
@@grazz7865 I’ve been running the boat so the fuel is fresh and the sea foam is just through last tank. I’ve got marine fuel in this tank since that is available here. It is running and starting much better, maybe I’ll set the pilot screws back and see where I’m at. It still won’t idle in gear for long but if I bump it to 1000 rpm I can putt along indefinitely and it idles indefinitely not in gear. One thing I’m not sure about is with it running rich is the oil mixture. It is oil injected so I think it gets the same oil no matter how much fuel. It still smokes a bit though so there is oil but it might be lean. Thoughts?
@@Nonplused definitely gets the same ratio whether It’s premixed in the tank or a separate reservoir and injected.
Great explanation of how the fuel pump works except I just replaced one on my Yamaha
golf cart yesterday and the inlet and outlet was labeled and it's reversed from what you
are saying. mine is working great.
I'm having a weak pump after replacement maybe a bad vacuum from engine? New lines and clamps
Did you figure this out.
I have a 2019 Scag 48" walkbehind, SWZT48-541FS, Kawasaki FS541V. Pull-cord. I open the choke. When I try to start it, it will NOT start. However, if I add 1 teaspoon of fuel into carburetor, it fires/starts. After engine has been running a short while, it will restart withOUT adding fuel directly into the carburetor. I have been doing this for 1-year. Why does it need to be manually primed to start? Is the fuel-pump, Kawasaki 49040-7008 Fuel Pump, likely the problem or more likely the fuel line or something else? BTW, I have changed the fuel filter and I had an ultrasonic cleaning of the carburetor. Those did not help the issue. Thank you!
Great video
Thank you
Great video, thanks for sharing!
Fantastic advice.
I was wondering if you can bypass pump gravity feed on a walk behind mower
What do I do if if I got gas leaking out of that circular tan part on the very top? It’s a brand new pump but it’s a black one same style tho?
When you switch to a pump from gravity feed how does the engine then get vented, the pump uses the vent pressure so the vent is closed off?
normally through the tank vent or the gas cap
Use vacuum from the intake. No issues
Very good video. Thank you
i have been on a hour search to find out why fuel is coming out of the pressure release and i now know why… i have a cheap no name one so that probably doesn’t help but i now know that it isn’t normal and that my fuel pump is messed all the way up😭
What causes there to be no pulse at the crankcase?
Question: Can that pump be used as a oil pump too?
Wondering if a vtwin could be converted to a “dry sump” ?
Larry
Will it pump oil? Yes. However, it doesn't produce the volume necessary to pressure lube an engine.
Thank you! Great video
If there is water in your gas tank I guess it would be a good idea to clean out that fuel pump of residual water
Just unhook it from the carburetor Crank the engine it’ll force the water out
I have a cub cadet riding mower I just bought in 2019 and I think fuel pump has failed already!If I pour gas into carb it starts right up.
@@stevezabriskie9839 my cub had a gummed up carb solenoid. Cleaned and exercised the plunger and used ethanol free gas (Puregas app)
I have a JD 160 lawn tractor and I don't get gas to the carburetor. I put a new fuel pump on and it went around the yard about 4 times and quit.. Is there a way to test the vacuum that runs the pump? And is there anything else I can try?
this is a common misconception about those fuel pumps they don’t have vacuum they have positive and negative pulses from the crank case. Every time the piston goes up and down. It creates a suction and a pressure. You can test this by putting a vacuum gauge on the hose and crank the engine over to see if the needle fluctuates positive and negative, but I would be leaning more towards a restriction in the fuel pick up, so check for an obstruction from the gas tank to the fuel pump
@THEMOWERMEDIC1 Thank you. You know I put the fuel line that led for the gas tank that was about eighty inches long into a glass of gasoline, it didn't pump up the gasoline to go into the pump.
@@icemancometh8679did you figure this out. I have same problem.
Great video!
God bless you AMEN
Thanks for the video!
There needs to be a gauge to check the engine pulse or something ?
Never needed one
@@THEMOWERMEDIC1 i’m a heavy equipment OO mobile mechanic, 12 hp Kawasaki runs good but won’t lift fuel from tank if I put pulse hose in my mouth it pours out a full hose of fuel? Only trickles when turning engine over, R&R pump diaphragms seems good but maybe doesn’t flex enough, it is an old pump seems a Sensitive vacuum/pressure gauge could guarantee the right pulse at the pump, new pump on order I will see but hate doing the throwing parts thing :).
Can I ask you a question on this pump?
Can a bad fuel pump suck oil and allow it to go thru exhaust?
Yes if it has a blown head gasket
Can you prime a fuel pump manually?
Absolutely, grab you a marine fuel line that has the primer bulb and hook it to the gas line straight out of the carburetor and pump away
Hey chief have a question hope you could help me with I have a Hobart champion 145 welder/generator it has a 11 hp briggs and stratton engine unfortunately the owner ran it without oil so my question is can I install any size engine in it or would I need to find something similar to it and how about the crank shaft does it have to be the same length size it's that I try looking up videos on engine swap for generator can't find none that will help me
Model
Type
Code. Need that info off the
Engine
can i get parts to rebuild this pump? i have the same one on a kawasaki mule!
I have the same question. Did you find success?
@@PhillipHall01 no I bought a new one
@@StonemanRocks
Thanks Stoneman, Since I had ask you, I realized mine had lost its prime after a bad fuel line from the tank. With air pressure added in the tank for repriming, mine went to working just fine again. I sure was glad! 😊 Phillip Hall
“Mikuni makes nice stuff!”..
Great share!
Larry
fuel return? need attantion.
Thanks!
Hey mower medic. Small Engine Nation I’d coming on at 7 ton. I’d love itu could stop in for a chat and maybe join the stream
Sure how’s that work? Do I need a laptop?
@@THEMOWERMEDIC1 sorry I just now saw your?? He didn’t have streamyard going tonight. Thanks for stopping by. I thought he would have streamyard going so u big dogs can get on and answer ?’s. Thanks again
I’ll be on the micks mowers live
Stream on the 19th
@@THEMOWERMEDIC1 I’ve been watching you for years now. I consider u a legend. Top Dog in Small engines. Thanks again for all your hard work in making videos. U were one of the first that I started watching on TH-cam
@@THEMOWERMEDIC1 I look forward to seeing u on there. Micks mowers
How to fix it
Replace it
You need to see a doctor about you fingernails. That lloks like a fungus infection. Four pill , one pill each week will cure that.
I'm just trying to be helpul. This post is not meant to be disrespecful in any way.
lol. this video is 3 years old but thanks
for your input 👍👍