I'm loving your tutorials. I've been coding since the 80s (starting as an IBM systems programmer) but am a total Arduino noob. Your tutorials have been really helpful in getting up to speed. A fun enhancement would be to add a separate calibrate button. When pushed with the joystick centered, it would read the neutral X and Y values, shove them into variables, add a "fudge factor" and then use those rather than hard coding. You know what they say, "Software is never finished; at some point, it's just abandoned." lol
I know how this is going to sound, but, it is what it is. I love what youre doing. Im a polymath artist/engineer. And as such, I know what its like having projects all over the place that I am working on. I just subscribed, so im not sure full extent of your skills. With that being said, I could only imagine what you would do with a 3D printer and you were able to print your own parts. So, if you were to get 1, Id be able to help you. How? Well, Im a Maya expert and I am capable of printing anything with no limitations with 100% accuracy. So, basically, theres nothing you could think of, that I wouldnt be able to figure out how to print. Im going to be making a series of tutorials that incorporate everything (check my page) from game dev, 3D art, Geometry, 3D printing, engineering etc. Youre already helping me by doing what your doing. So, I figure if there was anything I could do to help you, I would, especially if it meant seeing what you would do with something 3d printed. For example, Im going to start working on a RC Dirt buggie, that transforms into a drone and flys. LOL. And Im going to document it from start to finish. Anytime I get to something that i feel you can explain better, which would be most things when it comes to electric, Im going to direct them to your page. Sorry for the long comment but if you actually check my page youll see im legit. Also, Theres something I havent figured out, maybe it would be a dope video for you to do. I know how to code it in Unreal, but, how would you go about zeroing out numbers to work from a scale of 0-1. For Example, In UE I would code it like this, if defualt value for X is 489, -489 and set X. X now has a value of of zero, then set max to 1000 and divide to give me 0-1. And do the same but for negative in the other direction, so the controls should technically be for accuracy 0 at defualt, -X = -1 and X =1. So .5 would be halfway moving the stick to either side. I can do this in UE but if I could it in the Arduino it would be better for me. I guess I should I mention, the RC Buggie that transforms into a drone, is going to have a VR component so itll be like youre really small driving in VR like a video game, but instead of a video game environment, itll be a real environment.. Thanks, if you took the time to read, and I apologize again for the long comment. Cheers from NYC.
Wow i was just planning this on my puppet alien animatronic, you ready my mind, dont do that, my wife says its chaotic, 9 projects going at the same time, big huge projects. Love the channel playing in background when in workshop, like Adam Savage your voice is good for concentration.
If you want to control multiple LEDs with a lot of flexibility, and very low software overhead, lp55231 has 3 onboard LED control "engines", for 9 LEDs, which can be programmed with complex sequences, and free-run, with no further MCU overhead, or small I2C instructions that change parameters of the program execution... There is some Arduino support, and TI has a PC-based software development package... There's even a "trigger" input/output pin, to allow "chaining" multiple LP55231's.
It is caused by button bounce, so putting in a delay between the movement of the Y and X about 400 to 600 milliseconds, and a delay at the end of the loop to control the overall loop sequence again 1 second should be adequate.
Hi, is it possible to use the button function to trigger a seperate led ring in connection to the direction of joystick movement. Eg the red if pressed while joystick pushed to the top would trigger an extra red led above the original. Am trying to make a starfury model with 12 leds as thrusters
great video i have some idea to finaly use my joystick for a projet (gonna use it with yx5300 mp3 player, up/down to change folder, and left/right for playing previous/next song, and button trigger for payse/play) thx
Hey Rachel been awhile, I have been playing with a CNC using Cad and writing with GCode but is itself a c++ sketch file same for Arduino ? anyway good to see you love the bangs nice look take care. 😀
You should be able to simplify the code and make it work more consistently by writing it like this. if (buttonState == Low){ digitalWrite(upLed, HIGH); digitalWrite(downLed, HIGH); digitalWrite(leftLed, HIGH); digitalWrite(rightLed, HIGH); }else{ analogWrite(upLed,upBrightness); analogWrite(downLed,downBrightness); analogWrite(leftLed,leftBrightness); analogWrite(rightLed,rightBrightness); } The dead-bands in the map statements should be sufficient to set the values to zero near center.
How about setting all brightness variables to 0 at the beginning of each loop, then read the pins using min() and max() functions, and map the values to the respective brightness. Finally write to all leds. This would eliminate all IF statements.
This code didn't work for me...I didn't had hairs before...and guess what?? They didn't grow after the code worked just fine!! 🤣😂🤣 Amazing tutorial!! Thank you!! 🥰
You're right! The X and Y axes on the joystick each have a potentiometer. You can see them if you pop off the knob. The button works like an on/off switch.
There is a logical error in the code. When checking for x and y values being in the "zero zone", those should be checked independently. Otherwise one could have a situation with x being in the "zero zone" while y is not (or y but not x), causing the lights to stay on.
I'm loving your tutorials. I've been coding since the 80s (starting as an IBM systems programmer) but am a total Arduino noob. Your tutorials have been really helpful in getting up to speed.
A fun enhancement would be to add a separate calibrate button. When pushed with the joystick centered, it would read the neutral X and Y values, shove them into variables, add a "fudge factor" and then use those rather than hard coding. You know what they say, "Software is never finished; at some point, it's just abandoned." lol
That's a great idea! I should do a follow-up video to try it out! 👍
Nice vídeo and a nice way to introduce Hysteresis in a pratical way.
Hi Rachel, nice to see you.. hope all is good
👍 all is great! Working on finishing up some of my projects.
Wires, lights, and knobs... oh my!
this was 😞as much fun as movie night! 🎦🍿
😆 I'm glad we figured out the dead zone during the last Office Hours live chat! It works great!
Fun to see that you were able to adjust the negative action from canceling out the antiative reaction?
I know how this is going to sound, but, it is what it is. I love what youre doing. Im a polymath artist/engineer. And as such, I know what its like having projects all over the place that I am working on. I just subscribed, so im not sure full extent of your skills. With that being said, I could only imagine what you would do with a 3D printer and you were able to print your own parts. So, if you were to get 1, Id be able to help you. How? Well, Im a Maya expert and I am capable of printing anything with no limitations with 100% accuracy. So, basically, theres nothing you could think of, that I wouldnt be able to figure out how to print. Im going to be making a series of tutorials that incorporate everything (check my page) from game dev, 3D art, Geometry, 3D printing, engineering etc. Youre already helping me by doing what your doing. So, I figure if there was anything I could do to help you, I would, especially if it meant seeing what you would do with something 3d printed. For example, Im going to start working on a RC Dirt buggie, that transforms into a drone and flys. LOL. And Im going to document it from start to finish. Anytime I get to something that i feel you can explain better, which would be most things when it comes to electric, Im going to direct them to your page. Sorry for the long comment but if you actually check my page youll see im legit. Also, Theres something I havent figured out, maybe it would be a dope video for you to do. I know how to code it in Unreal, but, how would you go about zeroing out numbers to work from a scale of 0-1.
For Example, In UE I would code it like this, if defualt value for X is 489, -489 and set X. X now has a value of of zero, then set max to 1000 and divide to give me 0-1. And do the same but for negative in the other direction, so the controls should technically be for accuracy 0 at defualt, -X = -1 and X =1. So .5 would be halfway moving the stick to either side. I can do this in UE but if I could it in the Arduino it would be better for me. I guess I should I mention, the RC Buggie that transforms into a drone, is going to have a VR component so itll be like youre really small driving in VR like a video game, but instead of a video game environment, itll be a real environment.. Thanks, if you took the time to read, and I apologize again for the long comment. Cheers from NYC.
Allways nice videos, i'll try this one also,keep them coming!
Great teaching skills. Thanks.
You are welcome!
Thank You for the tutorial videos. Your just too cool!
My pleasure 😄
Nice explanation too, thank you
Wow i was just planning this on my puppet alien animatronic, you ready my mind, dont do that, my wife says its chaotic, 9 projects going at the same time, big huge projects. Love the channel playing in background when in workshop, like Adam Savage your voice is good for concentration.
A puppet alien animatronic? That sounds awesome!
If you want to control multiple LEDs with a lot of flexibility, and very low software overhead, lp55231 has 3 onboard LED control "engines", for 9 LEDs, which can be programmed with complex sequences, and free-run, with no further MCU overhead, or small I2C instructions that change parameters of the program execution... There is some Arduino support, and TI has a PC-based software development package... There's even a "trigger" input/output pin, to allow "chaining" multiple LP55231's.
love that shirt!!
Great stuff Rachel.
👍 thanks! Let me know if there's any topics you'd like to see.
@@RachelDeBarrosLive the topics you're covering are fine. I'm looking forward to seeing the next video about controlling a servo with the joystick.
Very Clever, thanks
Fun vid. ty
Another banger
It is caused by button bounce, so putting in a delay between the movement of the Y and X about 400 to 600 milliseconds, and a delay at the end of the loop to control the overall loop sequence again 1 second should be adequate.
what value resistor did u use
youre wonderful
Will it be possible for you to make a video on PH calibration on Arduino with detail. It will help me on my project.
Hi, is it possible to use the button function to trigger a seperate led ring in connection to the direction of joystick movement. Eg the red if pressed while joystick pushed to the top would trigger an extra red led above the original. Am trying to make a starfury model with 12 leds as thrusters
great video
i have some idea to finaly use my joystick for a projet (gonna use it with yx5300 mp3 player, up/down to change folder, and left/right for playing previous/next song, and button trigger for payse/play)
thx
That's a great project idea!
Hey Rachel been awhile, I have been playing with a CNC using Cad and writing with GCode but is itself a c++ sketch file same for Arduino ? anyway good to see you love the bangs nice look take care. 😀
Hi Jim! Arduino is indeed based on C/C++
You should be able to simplify the code and make it work more consistently by writing it like this.
if (buttonState == Low){
digitalWrite(upLed, HIGH);
digitalWrite(downLed, HIGH);
digitalWrite(leftLed, HIGH);
digitalWrite(rightLed, HIGH);
}else{
analogWrite(upLed,upBrightness);
analogWrite(downLed,downBrightness);
analogWrite(leftLed,leftBrightness);
analogWrite(rightLed,rightBrightness);
}
The dead-bands in the map statements should be sufficient to set the values to zero near center.
How about setting all brightness variables to 0 at the beginning of each loop, then read the pins using min() and max() functions, and map the values to the respective brightness. Finally write to all leds. This would eliminate all IF statements.
Great idea! I'll have to do a follow-up video trying this out and other good ideas people have had in the comments.
This code didn't work for me...I didn't had hairs before...and guess what?? They didn't grow after the code worked just fine!! 🤣😂🤣
Amazing tutorial!! Thank you!! 🥰
🤣 👍 You brightened my day!
I am having issues.
My joystick gives an output of 0 to 1 in the y axis, instead of 0 to 1023.
What do i use as the mid-point when mapping ???
Answers plsssssss
good . but if you used led bar it was more attractive 💯
Oooo.... that's a great idea! I'll have to do a follow-up video!
@@RachelDeBarrosLive 👌
@@RachelDeBarrosLive many more ideas I have
I am Professor of Electronics. Working on STEM EDUCATION. Want to share ideas if you are interested
So analog pins are acting like some kind of potentiometers and Digital like on and off switchs am i wrong?
You're right! The X and Y axes on the joystick each have a potentiometer. You can see them if you pop off the knob. The button works like an on/off switch.
There is a logical error in the code. When checking for x and y values being in the "zero zone", those should be checked independently. Otherwise one could have a situation with x being in the "zero zone" while y is not (or y but not x), causing the lights to stay on.
Yeah. Should be two different lines. Too many && on one line.
Great suggestions! I'll have to do a follow-up video with many of the tweaks and improvements in these comments!
18:52 the programmer's credo
Yaaas! 🤣 For every 1 problem I fix, I create another 2!
A wish genie or a genie from wish ???