I have a Helle, problemnI have, someone used it to skin a sheep, but never cleaned before sheathing and I now have blood rust, which makes me mad, how do I remove it without messing up the blade, your advice would be greatly appreciated Sir
@moosa9850 you have to sand or grind it down if it's really bad, you can use rust erasers as well but most likely it will take some sandpaper. Try rust erasers and oil first.
A tiny secondary bevel is actually the way to go when it comes to true scandi grinds. Even of the oldest reports of Scandinavian knifemakers always mention a small secondary bevel after the main-grind. This whole scandi-to-zero thing is a modern addiction invented mostly by British Bushcraft fanatics. It just makes the edge prone to chipping and rolling. Yes, it might be a bit more precise or 0,5% sharper, but I bet nobody would notice it in actual use, when compared to a well made tiny microbevel.
That's exactly what I always say as well, in reality it gives the edge more toughness, and sharpness hardly goes down especially for wood work or bushcraft
@@NeevesKnives no disrespect but toughness is in relation to the steel, and it’s anatomic makeup. A secondary micro bevel isn’t going to toughen much of anything ever. Resilience on the other hand is a debatable trait that could be argued for edge deformation.
I make knives, usually I go for Scandi-esque grind. Easy to sharpen even with very smooth sandpaper. It can be a 'larger' bevel too to the back, just remember to keep it flat to the bevel.
Just get myself the Beavercraft strope with sharpening compound for my BPS Knives and kitchen knives. Absolutely love my BPS Knives and that two sided leather strope from Beavercraft are also made in Ukraine!
That scandi has developed quite a secondary bevel... probably from too much stropping with compound, when it was really time to go to the stone, if I had to guess.
A scandi grind is the easiest knife grind to sharpen. Knife grind, not a tool such as a wood chisel. They are my favorite grind for any kind of wood working!
Even though my Mora is obviously a scandy grind, I still sharpen it on my ceramic rod system and have a little secondary bevel at the edge. I figure it can't be bad to make it just a little stronger. Whaddya think? Am I right or not?
No your not wrong, you would have more precision without the micro bevel but as long as it's a micro bevel it's just making the apex more stable, but the negative is a loss in precision, bit it really depends on what its being used for
Scandis are the best but to be honest the real scandi nuts would say your not supposed to strop a scandi grind as it can actually round over your edge. But I’ve never really had a problem to be honest
Some say stropping soft ruins a zero scandi. Due to depth of material it creates a secondary bevel, however described. If that's the most constant micro bevel... ..who the heck wants to argue with a news paper person anyway. (-: ..blah blah.
I wouldn't call scandi easy to maintain lol. You have to remove metal from the entire bevel every time you sharpen. More work than a micro bevel. That being said, it is my favorite grind.
@@HamBone86 I have never had an issue either. Still doesn't make scandi "easier to maintain". It is simple physics. If you maintain the scandi grind, don't cheat and micro bevel you have to remove significantly more metal to sharpen a scandi knife than any other grind. More metal removed equals more time. Are you cheating, or have you found a way around the physical laws of our universe? Or maybe I am right and scandi is not "easier to maintain". Unless of course you dont know how to sharpen anything else.
@@kraftzion Surely in there is the long bevel/grind vs eyeballin' freehand/angle of others..not clamped knife 'n stsone angle set. Bevel/grind so wide one can feel it like a wobbly bar stool to set in place. ~ As you say, in walks muscle memory/experience for a micro bevel. ~ To me using a clamped system many love, is near like re-loading gun shells. ~~ ahem ~ my grandpa's old five pin J. Russell skinner/boner is near as a whole blade scandi to zero, but I've taken to inverting a kitchen steel to towel/counter for light drags to re-sharpen, tip to ricasso vs Chef whip whip. It's much easier to hold same angle/hit tip as looking down a rifle barrel front/center. lol, now where did I put that old ceramic rod kit from the 90s?
@@NeevesKnives I don’t remember who it was, but I saw a video the other day that showed a supposed Scandi edge magnified, and there was indeed a micro bevel. They said it would take a good long time to turn it into a true scandi grind. Thanks for the videos, sir. I really appreciate every one.👍🏻
scandi grinds are terrible. you have to remove a lot more metal in order to sharpen a scandi grind because the primary bevel is much larger than in a regular grind and so it takes much longer to sharpen so it’s very difficult to keep an apex geometry instead of a convex geometry so then it just starts getting really thick behind the edge. the main benefit of a scandi grind is edge stability but a lot of edge instability people experience is from not properly removing the burr in the sharpening process and just removing the burr is going to create a micro bevel so that zero grind termination is never going to look perfect either. it’s great for machetes but i don’t think it great for survival just because of the extra time it takes to keep it sharp. in a post apocalyptic future where you are down to just your scandi ground knife and it’s your one knife for life you are going to be fighting these issues forever
what your talking about is sharpening which i spoke about in last nights live, how it takes longer to sharpen but is easier to find the angle. but if you start with a very coarse stone its not that bad but yes it does take much longer than a regular bevel but if your good at holding the angle and have a very coarse stone you will be fine. i might sharpen one live on Sunday, however for maintainting the edge its very easy because the angle is so easy to hold, so if you have multiple strops from coarse to fine you can keep it going for a long time before doing a full sharpening
@@NeevesKnives i’ll try to catch the live. i think you’re right that it’s easier holding the angle. i think a lot of people expect scandi grinds to be really easy to sharpen but if you walk up to the average person with a scandi grind and you look at their knife you will not be impressed because it will either be really rounded convex shape or they didn’t remove the burr and there’s blade damage. i saw a video of a guy trash talking scandi grinds and he was at some sort of survival festival and was walking around looking at peoples scandi ground knives and he didn’t seem like he had a great understanding of the knives but neither did most of the people showing him their knives and that’s what made me realize that a lot of people just go with it because other survival people do it, it’s a trend. DBK guys love convex and scandi grinds but i’ve never seen them actually do anything practical with a knife. in the comfort of my home with a flat lapping machine and all my stones and setup and good lighting any knife is easy to sharpen but it is definitely not easy to maintain a scandi grind with just pocket stones in the woods.
BPS KNIVES
amzn.to/3KjIxQk
STROP
amzn.to/3ZyWkY0
I have a Helle, problemnI have, someone used it to skin a sheep, but never cleaned before sheathing and I now have blood rust, which makes me mad, how do I remove it without messing up the blade, your advice would be greatly appreciated Sir
@moosa9850 you have to sand or grind it down if it's really bad, you can use rust erasers as well but most likely it will take some sandpaper. Try rust erasers and oil first.
@@NeevesKnives Thank you Sir
Scandi grinds are the only knives i will buy these days, easy to maintain but also by far the sharpest knives
A tiny secondary bevel is actually the way to go when it comes to true scandi grinds.
Even of the oldest reports of Scandinavian knifemakers always mention a small secondary bevel after the main-grind.
This whole scandi-to-zero thing is a modern addiction invented mostly by British Bushcraft fanatics. It just makes the edge prone to chipping and rolling.
Yes, it might be a bit more precise or 0,5% sharper, but I bet nobody would notice it in actual use, when compared to a well made tiny microbevel.
That's exactly what I always say as well, in reality it gives the edge more toughness, and sharpness hardly goes down especially for wood work or bushcraft
@@NeevesKnives no disrespect but toughness is in relation to the steel, and it’s anatomic makeup. A secondary micro bevel isn’t going to toughen much of anything ever. Resilience on the other hand is a debatable trait that could be argued for edge deformation.
Scandi ground knives are awesome and easy to keep razor sharp. Thanks for the tips and keep making sharp things fun and enjoyable
I make knives, usually I go for Scandi-esque grind. Easy to sharpen even with very smooth sandpaper. It can be a 'larger' bevel too to the back, just remember to keep it flat to the bevel.
Just get myself the Beavercraft strope with sharpening compound for my BPS Knives and kitchen knives.
Absolutely love my BPS Knives and that two sided leather strope from Beavercraft are also made in Ukraine!
Theses are me favorites. Your bringing us to iron..J. I thank ya for it.
That's the thing I love about the morakniv
Even without an optimal strop you can kind of just find something good enough most of the time
That’s my favorite edge- because it makes the most sense
Yes awesome I just bought a scandi grind knife a while back and I've been waiting for some information from you.
Dude…these are perfect. Your bringing us to the iron..J. I thank ya for it.
We have much more coming very soon on scandi grinds
The sharpest man on TH-cam! 👊
I want to do a video on how to sharpen a scandi grind knife but I don't own one at the moment . You should do it !
Otw
Thanks for the video boss ima have to get some bench stones and start practicing on some cheaper moras or something
If you know what your doing you can feel the bevel
That scandi has developed quite a secondary bevel... probably from too much stropping with compound, when it was really time to go to the stone, if I had to guess.
Just what I needed
Oh! You said Gunny juice!!!.. With a "G". I had to go back, rewatch, and pause the vid. Lmao.
Very cool.
Thanks.
Nice
It looks like there's an edge bevel in this video? With the light reflecting off the micro bevel as well
A scandi grind is the easiest knife grind to sharpen. Knife grind, not a tool such as a wood chisel. They are my favorite grind for any kind of wood working!
¿ wich stones do you use to sharpen it and mantain thar mirror Edge ?
That looks like a great steak knife. Makes me hungry.
Even though my Mora is obviously a scandy grind, I still sharpen it on my ceramic rod system and have a little secondary bevel at the edge. I figure it can't be bad to make it just a little stronger. Whaddya think? Am I right or not?
No your not wrong, you would have more precision without the micro bevel but as long as it's a micro bevel it's just making the apex more stable, but the negative is a loss in precision, bit it really depends on what its being used for
@@NeevesKnives , Thanks!
Clan Gunn ! 👍
About time !!!
what about the mora garberg
My knives never need maintenance. They always need sharpening
thats because your not doing maintenance or possibly need a couple more tricks up your sleeve with maint
What size (microns) diamond emulsion do you use? And do you use different micron sizes on the smooth vs rough side of your strop?
Show us how to sharpen da convex like a bark river
Ive heard you shouldn't strop scandi grinds or use compond on them of you do. Is that some bs?
Yeah that's BS
Wut kinife is that ?
I can like see the microbevel
There is an obvius secondary bevel
Not gonna complain about thickness behind the edge?😂
😆 not in this case
Scandis are the best but to be honest the real scandi nuts would say your not supposed to strop a scandi grind as it can actually round over your edge. But I’ve never really had a problem to be honest
Some say stropping soft ruins a zero scandi. Due to depth of material it creates a secondary bevel, however described.
If that's the most constant micro bevel...
..who the heck wants to argue with a news paper person anyway. (-:
..blah blah.
I wouldn't call scandi easy to maintain lol. You have to remove metal from the entire bevel every time you sharpen. More work than a micro bevel. That being said, it is my favorite grind.
It’s only harder if you don’t know what you’re doing. I’ve never had issues sharpening scandi knives.
@@HamBone86 I have never had an issue either. Still doesn't make scandi "easier to maintain". It is simple physics. If you maintain the scandi grind, don't cheat and micro bevel you have to remove significantly more metal to sharpen a scandi knife than any other grind. More metal removed equals more time. Are you cheating, or have you found a way around the physical laws of our universe? Or maybe I am right and scandi is not "easier to maintain". Unless of course you dont know how to sharpen anything else.
@@kraftzion Surely in there is the long bevel/grind vs eyeballin' freehand/angle of others..not clamped knife 'n stsone angle set.
Bevel/grind so wide one can feel it like a wobbly bar stool to set in place.
~ As you say, in walks muscle memory/experience for a micro bevel.
~ To me using a clamped system many love, is near like re-loading gun shells.
~~ ahem ~ my grandpa's old five pin J. Russell skinner/boner is near as a whole blade scandi to zero, but I've taken to inverting a kitchen steel to towel/counter for light drags to re-sharpen, tip to ricasso vs Chef whip whip. It's much easier to hold same angle/hit tip as looking down a rifle barrel front/center. lol, now where did I put that old ceramic rod kit from the 90s?
Don’t even Moras and most other so-called scandi grinds have a micro bevel nowadays.
For the most part yes but you will get a group of people that will come in the comments and scream about it
@@NeevesKnives I don’t remember who it was, but I saw a video the other day that showed a supposed Scandi edge magnified, and there was indeed a micro bevel. They said it would take a good long time to turn it into a true scandi grind. Thanks for the videos, sir. I really appreciate every one.👍🏻
Reverse pass on your strop or you want to buy a new strop .
Almost as easy as maintaining a convex edge.
scandi grinds are terrible. you have to remove a lot more metal in order to sharpen a scandi grind because the primary bevel is much larger than in a regular grind and so it takes much longer to sharpen so it’s very difficult to keep an apex geometry instead of a convex geometry so then it just starts getting really thick behind the edge. the main benefit of a scandi grind is edge stability but a lot of edge instability people experience is from not properly removing the burr in the sharpening process and just removing the burr is going to create a micro bevel so that zero grind termination is never going to look perfect either. it’s great for machetes but i don’t think it great for survival just because of the extra time it takes to keep it sharp. in a post apocalyptic future where you are down to just your scandi ground knife and it’s your one knife for life you are going to be fighting these issues forever
what your talking about is sharpening which i spoke about in last nights live, how it takes longer to sharpen but is easier to find the angle. but if you start with a very coarse stone its not that bad but yes it does take much longer than a regular bevel but if your good at holding the angle and have a very coarse stone you will be fine. i might sharpen one live on Sunday, however for maintainting the edge its very easy because the angle is so easy to hold, so if you have multiple strops from coarse to fine you can keep it going for a long time before doing a full sharpening
@@NeevesKnives i’ll try to catch the live. i think you’re right that it’s easier holding the angle. i think a lot of people expect scandi grinds to be really easy to sharpen but if you walk up to the average person with a scandi grind and you look at their knife you will not be impressed because it will either be really rounded convex shape or they didn’t remove the burr and there’s blade damage. i saw a video of a guy trash talking scandi grinds and he was at some sort of survival festival and was walking around looking at peoples scandi ground knives and he didn’t seem like he had a great understanding of the knives but neither did most of the people showing him their knives and that’s what made me realize that a lot of people just go with it because other survival people do it, it’s a trend. DBK guys love convex and scandi grinds but i’ve never seen them actually do anything practical with a knife. in the comfort of my home with a flat lapping machine and all my stones and setup and good lighting any knife is easy to sharpen but it is definitely not easy to maintain a scandi grind with just pocket stones in the woods.
Why aren't all knives like this? 😂
I have a very shakiy hands so i can never sharpen any regular ol' knives 😂
I want one.