im glad you didnt give up - too many people have prints that fail because of printing too fast- worn drive gears worn nozzles and because of the air gaps the prints are weak and they totally dismiss the plastic- what people dont realize is lots of modern manufacturing uses solid plastics to withhold ridiculous pressures and temps for entire warranty periods.
No doubt others already commented as the vid is now 3yrs old - but 10:00 fluffy junk - moisture in the hygroscopic nylon. Possible cause. Dry the nylon for 3-4 hrs before using and keep it in a dry box that feeds directly to the extruder with minimal air contact!
Just on one further comment although probably redundant as it 3yrs since posting. Still good tips for others who Boyer to read comments. 1) make sure nylon filaments are very dry - the cross section looks to have a bit of porosity. The water can cause bubbles. 2) use prusa slicer 2.6 (aplhax?) to get organic supports or cura with tree support. 3) design a channel aligned to the z (Perp to bed) where you can place a long bolt to compress the z axis together. 4) print slow! 5) print slightly hotter. 6) consider solid Nylon - there a couple brands atm with good nylon. 3d print nerd went to a show where they had a good nylon (rapid tct check the scene with poly maker) coming out (poly maker pa6-gf and poly maker pa6-cf) That could print at more normal temps 6.1) perhaps use cf-nylon. Cnckitchen has done test on fibers in parts and it can reduce strength performance. 7) anneal the part it may help layer adhesion however as wacky shape it may not work well with warping etc. 8) use a cfd analysis on the part and simulate pressure 2-3X of max anticipated part to ensure you don’t get catastrophic explosions. Simscale may be good. Their non paid accounts were public upload models so if you want secure design not good. They were doing a subscription model but hasn’t worked out pricing. Fusion can do pressure stress analysis - hydrostatic modeling. Possibly could use with your working pressure. 9) could you put a boss in there that has a pressure release valve that blows off excess pressure and save the part from exploding ? 10) layer heigh and nozzle size. Smaller nozzle and smaller layer height Weill get better adhesion - cnc kitchen has a vid on this. The more dense the layers the better or the more homogenous the parts are. Obviously the time will blow out!! 11) were you using z hop?
This is incredible. I have a ford raptor that I am experimenting with. The aftermarket is somewhat limited and mostly caters to people with a lot of money and are mostly fruitless mods that give no results, but look pretty. I'm a novice to 3d printing but I think this could be an interesting thing to try out. I wonder if making a 3d plastic mold to cast aluminum could be a good option for strength and confidence in the reliability of the part?
Thanks! There are casting waxes that burn out cleaner than plastic that can be 3d printed and I've found foundries that will take you part, add the sprues and gates for casting, and then cast in aluminum, stainless, etc. I need to build a bigger printer first but would love to design an entire manifold for casting!
Thanks, I will try drying. I have been going right from filament packaging to printing, but am planning another print of this part so it makes sense to try as many improvements as possible!
When I went from the surface model of the runner to the thickened part (at 2:07 in the video) .300 inches is what I ended up using for the final version. Earlier versions were thinner.
This is absolutely dope as shit. I am thinking of getting a 3D printer to print my own pieces for cu;;stom applications, mainly to our Range Rover. Was wondering the best material for the underhood temps. Are most 3D printers like this upgraded this easily?
For in under hood parts that aren't directly attached to the engine, I use ABS (like for fuse boxes or small electronics enclosures.) If it is going to be in a hotter part of the engine bay, say within proximity of the exhaust where it is getting more heat, then a ABS PC blend is the next step. Then use the PA6GF30 referenced for the last part built in this video for things directly attached to the engine parts that operate at engine temperature. There are also flame resistant nylon materials and if you are going for awesome looking parts under the hood, you could 3d print and then wrap it with carbon fiber and epoxy! From what I've seen, even the more consumer grade printers can be upgraded like what I did. For example, search for "MakerBot all metal hot end". There are bolt on upgrades just like I did.
@@alextrezvy6889 it is a nylon plastic, PA6, with 30% fiberglass in it. You can also get nylon with carbon fiber in it, but I found that the nylon with fiberglass is rated slightly better for heat deflection than carbon fiber.
@@alextrezvy6889 The manufacturer, 3DXTech, claims "High thermal properties keep it strong up to 170°C in use, depending on printing and mechanical loads applied". I haven't done any tests to those levels but am also hoping my engine stays cooler than 110° C or so!
I was considering why you wouldn't revert back to the stock square pattern and broaden the base structure a bit. And just build embossments that you can plug later on that allow you to install your forward bolts through plenum holes to use both forward mounting holes because it looks like continued stress on this manifold is expected and the reduced size of the mounting flange is limiting you. How much weight is on the forward end of this and is there anything supporting that from the block to the filter?
couldn't change the angle of the rectangle side ? supported on the 15:06 in my side i don't know what you tought so just in my opinion thanks for the video by the way
Try putting the inlet in a oven proof dish(can) and use very fine salt(coffee grinder) packed in like a sand casting, then anneal to the filaments specs. Yes TH-cam worries but I do print with PolyMide™ CoPA, its based on a copolymer of Nylon 6 and Nylon 6,6. The filament combines excellent strength, toughness, and heat resistance of up to 180˚C(356˚F) THERMAL PROPERTIES Glass Transition Temperature: 67˚C Vicat Softening Temperature: 180˚C Melting Temperature: 190˚C To ensure a good heat resistance of your printed part it is recommended to anneal your PolyMide™ CoPA 3d printed model. Annealing settings: 80˚C for 6h The layers melt together and form a bond nearly as strong as the XY bond. 🇦🇺🤓🤜🏼🤛🏼🍀🍀🍀😎
Thank you exactly what I was looking for. Doing research for a custom supercharger into a V6 motor... I need a plate to a tube intake manifold. And I thought 3D printing it would be the best solution...
No I didn't dry it, I went straight out of the bag to printing. In retrospect, for $90/kg, it would be wise to take every precaution to get a perfect print including drying, but I don't believe I was seeing wet filament issues during the print!
Definitely an option! I've seen some printable casting filaments that supposedly burn out really clean too and have found foundries that will sprue up and cast parts you send them. I wanted to try to make this out of plastic (albeit not a cheap one) that could directly withstand the environment.
Yes, it is in use and has held up to Arizona summer air temperatures and accidental engine temperatures up to 240! I will print another one just to have a spare ready, but the last one in this video is holding up!
I don't have a ton of miles on it yet, no racing miles and I haven't hooked the supercharger back up to boost test it, but so far so good. I'll likely print another one to try to get a perfect one without defects; then I'll have a backup too!
Thanks for sharing and showing all the difficulties along the way. It was Soichiro Honda himself that said success is 99% failure.
im glad you didnt give up - too many people have prints that fail because of printing too fast- worn drive gears worn nozzles and because of the air gaps the prints are weak and they totally dismiss the plastic- what people dont realize is lots of modern manufacturing uses solid plastics to withhold ridiculous pressures and temps for entire warranty periods.
this is awesome, I want to try something similar now 😀
No doubt others already commented as the vid is now 3yrs old - but
10:00 fluffy junk - moisture in the hygroscopic nylon. Possible cause. Dry the nylon for 3-4 hrs before using and keep it in a dry box that feeds directly to the extruder with minimal air contact!
Have you seen the transforming build plate?
It’s made up of multiple adjustable sections like a chess board.
Designed to save on support materials.🤓
Just on one further comment although probably redundant as it 3yrs since posting. Still good tips for others who Boyer to read comments.
1) make sure nylon filaments are very dry - the cross section looks to have a bit of porosity. The water can cause bubbles.
2) use prusa slicer 2.6 (aplhax?) to get organic supports or cura with tree support.
3) design a channel aligned to the z (Perp to bed) where you can place a long bolt to compress the z axis together.
4) print slow!
5) print slightly hotter.
6) consider solid Nylon - there a couple brands atm with good nylon. 3d print nerd went to a show where they had a good nylon (rapid tct check the scene with poly maker) coming out (poly maker pa6-gf and poly maker pa6-cf) That could print at more normal temps
6.1) perhaps use cf-nylon. Cnckitchen has done test on fibers in parts and it can reduce strength performance.
7) anneal the part it may help layer adhesion however as wacky shape it may not work well with warping etc.
8) use a cfd analysis on the part and simulate pressure 2-3X of max anticipated part to ensure you don’t get catastrophic explosions. Simscale may be good. Their non paid accounts were public upload models so if you want secure design not good. They were doing a subscription model but hasn’t worked out pricing. Fusion can do pressure stress analysis - hydrostatic modeling. Possibly could use with your working pressure.
9) could you put a boss in there that has a pressure release valve that blows off excess pressure and save the part from exploding ?
10) layer heigh and nozzle size. Smaller nozzle and smaller layer height Weill get better adhesion - cnc kitchen has a vid on this. The more dense the layers the better or the more homogenous the parts are. Obviously the time will blow out!!
11) were you using z hop?
This is incredible. I have a ford raptor that I am experimenting with. The aftermarket is somewhat limited and mostly caters to people with a lot of money and are mostly fruitless mods that give no results, but look pretty. I'm a novice to 3d printing but I think this could be an interesting thing to try out. I wonder if making a 3d plastic mold to cast aluminum could be a good option for strength and confidence in the reliability of the part?
Thanks! There are casting waxes that burn out cleaner than plastic that can be 3d printed and I've found foundries that will take you part, add the sprues and gates for casting, and then cast in aluminum, stainless, etc. I need to build a bigger printer first but would love to design an entire manifold for casting!
I didn't realize this was so long ago, alto I have watched it alot for a good while. dad
That eaten brass nozzle is INSANE! 😲
You need to dry your filament. I managed better print after i left it in the filament dryer for 24h
Thanks, I will try drying. I have been going right from filament packaging to printing, but am planning another print of this part so it makes sense to try as many improvements as possible!
mind sharing the cad file? modelling this is a huge task in itself
23:00 can you tell me how much thickness you have kept to design the intake manifold
When I went from the surface model of the runner to the thickened part (at 2:07 in the video) .300 inches is what I ended up using for the final version. Earlier versions were thinner.
This is absolutely dope as shit. I am thinking of getting a 3D printer to print my own pieces for cu;;stom applications, mainly to our Range Rover. Was wondering the best material for the underhood temps. Are most 3D printers like this upgraded this easily?
For in under hood parts that aren't directly attached to the engine, I use ABS (like for fuse boxes or small electronics enclosures.) If it is going to be in a hotter part of the engine bay, say within proximity of the exhaust where it is getting more heat, then a ABS PC blend is the next step. Then use the PA6GF30 referenced for the last part built in this video for things directly attached to the engine parts that operate at engine temperature. There are also flame resistant nylon materials and if you are going for awesome looking parts under the hood, you could 3d print and then wrap it with carbon fiber and epoxy! From what I've seen, even the more consumer grade printers can be upgraded like what I did. For example, search for "MakerBot all metal hot end". There are bolt on upgrades just like I did.
@@KBo540 what is PA6GF30?
@@alextrezvy6889 it is a nylon plastic, PA6, with 30% fiberglass in it. You can also get nylon with carbon fiber in it, but I found that the nylon with fiberglass is rated slightly better for heat deflection than carbon fiber.
@@KBo540 didn't know about such thing. And what is the maximum usage temperature (I mean not a printing temperature which as I found is 250..260 C)?
@@alextrezvy6889 The manufacturer, 3DXTech, claims "High thermal properties keep it strong up to 170°C in use, depending on printing and mechanical loads applied". I haven't done any tests to those levels but am also hoping my engine stays cooler than 110° C or so!
you have done a good job. very informative the video👍
Thanks for sharing all your difficulties..very informative video...👍
I was considering why you wouldn't revert back to the stock square pattern and broaden the base structure a bit. And just build embossments that you can plug later on that allow you to install your forward bolts through plenum holes to use both forward mounting holes because it looks like continued stress on this manifold is expected and the reduced size of the mounting flange is limiting you. How much weight is on the forward end of this and is there anything supporting that from the block to the filter?
couldn't change the angle of the rectangle side ? supported on the 15:06 in my side i don't know what you tought so just in my opinion thanks for the video by the way
Best 3d project I’ve seen... love functional and love automotive.
🇦🇺🤜🏼🤛🏼😎🍀🤓
What program do you use to create and build those prints? Does it come with the printer
hey kb if you dont mind where are you from if close by ohio would you be willing to take my engine out and how much its a 1991 z28
Defiantly tuning your filament profile is the biggest time saver. 🤜🏼🤛🏼
Try putting the inlet in a oven proof dish(can) and use very fine salt(coffee grinder) packed in like a sand casting, then anneal to the filaments specs.
Yes TH-cam worries but I do print with PolyMide™ CoPA, its based on a copolymer of Nylon 6 and Nylon 6,6. The filament combines excellent strength, toughness, and heat resistance of up to 180˚C(356˚F)
THERMAL PROPERTIES
Glass Transition Temperature:
67˚C
Vicat Softening Temperature:
180˚C
Melting Temperature:
190˚C
To ensure a good heat resistance of your printed part it is recommended to anneal your PolyMide™ CoPA 3d printed model.
Annealing settings: 80˚C for 6h
The layers melt together and form a bond nearly as strong as the XY bond.
🇦🇺🤓🤜🏼🤛🏼🍀🍀🍀😎
Thanks for the info, will give it a try!
Thank you exactly what I was looking for. Doing research for a custom supercharger into a V6 motor... I need a plate to a tube intake manifold. And I thought 3D printing it would be the best solution...
Did you build one? Link if you did!
I'd like to see this thing on the engine running, kudos to you man that's some work you had to put in
Really impressive looking design! Great job 👍
Did you dry your nylon print filament before printing? I hear it is required to bake this filament or use another way to dry prior to printing.
No I didn't dry it, I went straight out of the bag to printing. In retrospect, for $90/kg, it would be wise to take every precaution to get a perfect print including drying, but I don't believe I was seeing wet filament issues during the print!
Why not print it in pla, then cast it out of aluminum. Lost PLA casting is the name of the process.
Definitely an option! I've seen some printable casting filaments that supposedly burn out really clean too and have found foundries that will sprue up and cast parts you send them. I wanted to try to make this out of plastic (albeit not a cheap one) that could directly withstand the environment.
cast it
Yes, would be interesting to try, so far so good with this method though!
Wow... that nozzle!
So did the last version actually held up?
Yes, it is in use and has held up to Arizona summer air temperatures and accidental engine temperatures up to 240! I will print another one just to have a spare ready, but the last one in this video is holding up!
hi good job, what is a design program?
Solidworks for cad, Cura for slicing!
Legendary
How well has this part held up?
I don't have a ton of miles on it yet, no racing miles and I haven't hooked the supercharger back up to boost test it, but so far so good. I'll likely print another one to try to get a perfect one without defects; then I'll have a backup too!