How to Build a Shed - How to Frame Walls For a Shed - Video 5 of 15
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- Our 8x10 and 10x12 shed plans for the shed built in these videos can be found here: countrylifepro...
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In this video Henry teaches you how to frame the walls for the shed, or any building. He shows you how to mark and layout the walls as well as detailed instruction on:
- Right way to measure and mark top and bottom plates for studs.
- How to frame the shed corners with inside corner backing if required
- How To Identify crown edge of studs and placement for straighter walls.
- How to easily line up walls to shed floor
- How to frame a door or window header
- How to Stand up, brace and plumb the walls
- Frame a door opening
- Block walls to increase door security and reduce break & Enter
NOTE: Henry shows you how to frame a door opening with a header but no window in this video. However, if you are framing a window, simply determine the opening height required, cut and install a horizontal 2x4 and then finish the studs underneath as per the 16" centers marked out on the bottom plate.
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#shed #gardenshed #diy #framing #carpentrytips #carpentry #woodworking #sheds #trusses
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Every step of the way just reeks experience and hindsight. Couldn't imagine building a shed without watching this even more than once first. Big thank you.
I worked in manufacturing as a tool and die maker, and never built a shed or outside structure in my life. The way you plan your work using jigs etc, to preclude problems ahead of time and make it all come together easily to GUARANTEE a good result is very much how I did in the shop and these are hands down the finest videos for a woodworking beginner like myself. Your presentation and instructions assume nothing in terms of the listeners expertise level or lack thereof and are clear, concise and thorough. In short, if the viewer carefully follows your instructions, it's impossible to go wrong. Thanks so much for taking the time to make these videos, I'm pumped and can't wait to start on my project!!!
This video was great. I was able to build a 10x12 shed all by myself with the help of this video. Great detail and taping. Thank you very much.
Hi Woodman
Well, I used a drill for the longest time not knowing how good the impact drivers are. Once I used one... I will never go back to a drill. With impact drivers you do not need to apply as much force behind the screw and this makes it much easier to use, especially when working/reaching above your head. Dewalt and Makita(large driver) are my favorites.
It's not only a very nice project, but also the very didactic way he explains, which makes easy to follow him. I already make my third wall.
Great vid. Good looking shed. Built my own shed. Even my wife got involved. She had one request. It better look cute and enchanting in my backyard. (ie) Flower Boxes, colony door and matching window, and I will pick the color. Lol.
This is undoubtedly the best video I have seen on building a shed. I've learned a lot of tricks watching these. Great job and thanks!
I absolutely agree!
Absolutely. My sentiments exactly!
I would have to agree. I've seen plenty of videos on shed building and this is by far the best series.
Fantastic Tips.....Shout out to you for showing how to do this by yourself...and I am by myself. I love to work on my sheds and I get a way better shed made better than the expensive Home depot sheds and at 1/2 the cost.
I have been working on a 16x12 shed for my wife for almost two years now, (it's a Summer kitchen) Electricity, heat air and hot and cold water, doing it all myself and I have made many mistakes, I wish I had watched videos like this before I started the work.
I've been planning to build a shed for over 3 yeas now and your videos are by far the best. Half way done with my 10x12 and it is coming along nicely, all because of your detailed information. Thank you, Henry!
I have been in construction a good many years of my life ( I'm 70 ) and I have never seen such a presentation for such a solid build as this series presents. I appreciate and commend you on building it right and solid. This guy knows what is the correct way to build a shed. Only wish they had plans for different dimension sheds than the two they offer. I would absolutely buy and watch what ever they are selling as they do right and accurate, You want a building to be built correctly and on dimension, buy these plans.
vertical is plumb and horizontal is level
Yes. And yet, every single person watching the video knew exactly what he meant. Crazy, huh?
Hi Matt... Yes, since I was young, I developed a bad habit of calling plumb level if I was holding a level to check vertical plumb. Oddly though, if I am using a laser, I refer to it as plumb. To me it just always made sense if I was using a level to check for plumb or horizontal level, I just called it level. But as you noted, some people just have to let others know they are right and you are wrong - I guess it makes them feel validated or something. And you are right, out of thousands of comments, I've only received a couple comments pointing this out.
In order to control cost and reduce some labor, can I eliminate the tongue and groove soffit and replace with 3/8 plywood. If so can I then apply LP siding to all walls at the same time?
Of course you can, it is after all a shed. Just follow the same order of installation and it should be fine.
Another great video! Even though you have selected straight studs, I would suggest that because some people will invariably use a bowed stud you should plump the wall from top plate to bottom plate with a level and straight edge. :)
First of all, great series and plans. I’m close to raising the walls on mine. Quick question, would it also work to square up the walls before raising them? Would this eliminate the need for pushing and predicting where it should go? I am working alone. Thanks for the videos and plans, they are top notch!
What you are calling a '' Triangle Square '' is commonly called a '' Speed Square '' !
I know... just wanted an easy way for viewers to identify it in the store.... should have stuck with Speed Square but that thought was after the video was shot and was not about to re-shoot for the name of the tool.
Should have left the cripples out of the door and screwed bottom plate down at those points.
This is by far the best shed construction series on the net, so many excellent tips, top quality and many thanks, going to build a 16x9 shed and you have helped so much, many thanks.
Your Welcome... glad you liked the videos. If you want to, you can upload your finished shed on our website (link to form is on sidebar of site).
I have 2 years of framing experience but it was 18 years ago. After that, i did siding for about 12 years so i have a general idea. But this video series is helping me tremendously!! If u can, go do the free trial of sketchup and draw up a set of plans for your shed. Along with this video, i have drawn up my 10x12' shed on sketchup and have caught a few things i could have potentially screwed up and wasted money on. If you're like me, you just want it to be easy as possible and still be done correct. Good luck!
The best video on building a shed, thank you very much!!
Thank you for such a detailed video, this is really helpful.
Don't you normally use nails when framing?
You can use either screws or nails... Years ago only the standard wood screw was available and they were expensive. Today there is a huge variety of construction screws available and fairly inexpensive. I prefer screws myself as I like the fact that they pull things together and stay together. You might notice on most DIY shows these days that screws are used a lot, especially in renovations and smaller projects.
Country Life Projects Okay. Thank You!
Great video! You simplify everything. Would it be alright to use nails instead of screws. Like one of your other viewer commented about building a 12 x 16. Well I will also be waiting to view that video..
Yes, nails, properly sized are fine. In fact, on larger sheds it is recommended for shear strength - and probably required by code once you exceed a specific square footage (which is different depending on your location). On a 12 x 16 shed I would use nails for all structural parts of the shed.
would you plans be suitable to pass my city's building department?
City is Palm Coast FL. they want Engineering plans for a 16x12 shed.
It is difficult to say as every area can have different code requirements. Florida may require sheathing + the exterior panels for high winds. Hurricane anchors "Plus" maybe having the shed secured to the ground via foundation or other anchoring method. As far as trusses go, it is unlikely they would pass homemade trusses with plywood gussets (mainly because there is no engineers willing to sign off on trusses made this way - I know because I have spent a lot of time trying to find one to put a stamp on the trusses I show how to build in my plans and videos)
Your best bet to get a large shed passed by a building department is to order 12' trusses from a truss company in your area made to handle the climate (likely not expensive). For a 12x16 shed you may have to have a slab on grade, or foundation wall on footings for high winds - that you will need to check with them.
There is a national building code but each building department (county or by state) will have various changes/mods to meet local geology and climate etc. And from what I have heard/read, even vapour barrier application is different in the southern states versus northern states.
This is the best video I've ever watched, thank for sharing.
Very thorough and excellent work.
I like you job cuz you explains very good step by step very simply this proyect to do a shed ..
If you're going to eye up the studs at 16" - 3/4", why not just mark 16" and eye up the centre of the stud?
Accuracy - while using a center mark may work for the majority of studs, there will be many steps that require stud placement to be precise e.g. door and window framing where rough openings need to be accurate as well as placement. Overall, it comes down to how fussy you are.
Your a awesome teacher. I understood in all. I loved the way you say how and why. Excellent. Thank you.
I'm trying to learn as much as I could.
Great video’s hands down, do you have plans for a 12’ x 16’ shed Same style as this one but only bigger?
Hi TC... not at this time. I am trying to get an engineer to sign off on 12' DIY trusses and it is proving difficult - Once I get this, I will put out plans for 12' wide sheds.
@@Countrylifeprojects thank you
Thank you very much. The tips are just what I needed to allow me to complete shed build by myself.
Henry you are the man with shed tutorials. So comprehensive. Info delivered in such a clear manner. Today I did the plumb/ bracing procedure. Was by myself so had the idea to use a rachet tie down strap to pull the walls into plumb and brace them when they are spot on plumb. Worked great but obviously you need a tree, fence etc to tie off to in order to accomplish that. But again very easy, very fast and very exacting plumb.
Excellent way of explaining everything. Great job!!!!! Kudos.
I looked at all the posts below but am unable to find the total height of the 10x12 shed?
Hi Eric... that would be 11' 7" high
I am enjoying your videos. Very informative. Was curious if there was a considerable benefit to using screws when framing walls. Any downside to using a framing nail gun?
Screws were chosen because most DIYers do not have a farming nailer setup, but most have an impact driver. So we just wanted to make sure our videos would show how to build sheds with tools most viewers would have and not have to buy.
That said, nails do have more shear strength and are usually better for framing. On smaller structures this is not really a big concern. However on larger structures there is more stress on a building from wind etc (a lot of things) so shear strength is important. Simply put, if I was building a garage or house, I would use nails. For a small shed - either or is fine.
Use rough lumber and pallets and you don’t have to worry about level, square and straight, just eyeball it.
I think you're looking for "how to build a shanty that will fall apart next week."
Thank you for your tutorial. Is amazing how easy you make it look. I am looking into building a proch in the back of my house, and you tutorial to build trusses has given me the best idea of how to do it. Thank you.
If your floor is pressure treated do you need to use galvanized fasteners to fasten the base plate to the floor and into the pressure treated 2x6 joists?
great vid and a really helpful security tip too, cheers.
When framing, what happened to the old 16 penny coated nail and the Deluge hammer. Much cheaper and quicker.
good clear instructions
I really like the fact that this video shows how to do it yourself without having a contractor van full of tools. this guy uses very few and small tools that anyone can buy and use safely.
Larry haun would definitely approve 👌
I guess you can use screws if you don't have a framing nailer. Good info.
Is not a good idea to do a birds mouth on the rafters ??
Not when you are building and using prefab trusses. That is typically done when stick framing the roof/rafters.
I learned a lot from this video for building my own shed that's going well. Thanks man
This video might be a few years old, but still the best around! No doubt
This man is a saint! Great job and easy to understand
An impact driver and a four foot level are man's best friends ( :
wonderful
Applaud the use of screws. You’ll get an 85% stronger hold by pre-drilling the holes according to a Georgia Tech study👍🏻
Screws have their place, but nails have their shear strength - it all depends on the application. Pre-Drilling? In woodworking - YES... for framing, NO, and you likely will never find a carpenter that will pre-drill anything for #8 or #10 screws when it comes to framing. For Lag Screws and larger fasteners YES.
I am planning to build a 7x17 garden shed. How can I use the plan and change the dimensions? I would appreciate your comments. Thanks.
It is fairly easy to modify the length of a shed with our plans, but if you change the width from our 8' wide or 10' wide shed there are too many modifications to be made and it would not be worth buying the plans.
YOU,VE GOT ME FIRED UP !! PJP IS IT SPRING YET?? PJP
Great videos. Thank you for sharing Cheers...
How do you like the impact driver compared to a drill driver?
Perfect video for me...thank you!!!
This is the best explanation and brilliant job sir!
Excellent tutorial. Thanks!
Perfect demo.., thank you. I’m building his one this week
Love the videos. What kind of screws are you using. I mean does the bit take a phillips or ?
me you Here is Canada we call them Robertson (or square head). Next best thing to these is Torx which are sold at Homedepot, possibly Lowes.
By far your videos cover the step by step constuction better than any I have seen and beleive me I have seen many. You take the time to demostrate each step. and give tips when you do not have someone to help you.
Great videos.
Hi SidThank you... I tried to do the videos with the beginner DIYer in mind. To often, professionals forget to include all the little things they learn over the years. We took lots of break between videos to make sure we included as much detail and tips as possible.Even then, some things still get missed and have to be added in with text overlays or pictures.Glad you like the videos.
One of best ones I’ve seen. Thank you 👍🏻
great video - thanks for sharing!!!
I put the siding on while the walls are down. Much easier to install while down...then raise the finished unit
Hi John... Not a bad thought as long as you have the extra hands to lift and secure the wall. If you have pics of your shed build please go to our site ( countrylifeprojects.com ) and email me - I'll send you a link where you can post your shed build, pics and comments.
Excellent tutorial. Thanks
best video for shed building
Thanks for sharing this video.
Great product work wonders
Thanks for all of the information in this video. It really encourages me to give it a shot
Two Questions:
1. Any tips on anchoring it down?
2. Is the length of the trim boards the only reason you made the shed dimension a few inches shy of 8x10?
Hi Jay... thanks for asking
1) If you are in an area with high winds, a concrete slab may be the way to go. Extreme winds, proper footers and foundation may be an option but expensive. Also keep in mind, in many areas as soon as a structure is on a concrete slab or foundation, it is considered a permanent structure and may get added to the total taxable square footage of buildings on your property - but that depends where you are.
2) Working in construction I see a lot of waste on most projects so I opted to design the shed for minimal waste - so the answer is yes. However, it is marginal so looking back, if I was to do a re-design I probably would go the full size. Any future plans I do will be full size.
All the best,
Henry
@@Countrylifeprojects Thanks so much for the reply, Henry! Thanks for pointing out the possibility of "taxable square footage." I'll definitely look into that.
I'd prefer a concrete foundation, but the ideal spot for our shed is right next to 2 trees that provide a ton of shade from the Texas sun. In efforts to not disturb roots and to not restrict water from reaching them with a concrete pad, a wood foundation like the one in your video seems ideal. Based on online reading, it looks like concrete pilings at the corners are a good method to anchor an 8x10 shed.
Thanks again for the great video!
These videos are superb. At this point in watching I have one question: when you made the header why didn't you sandwich a piece of half inch plywood or OSB between the 2x8s so that when you attached the 2x4 both sides were flush? Just curious. Love the tips.
Chris Davis Hi Chris... If I was building a house or garage I would do this but not for a shed. The plywood actually provides additional bearing strength in addition to the thickness. Not needed for a small header on the shed.
For a lean to shed 12x6, do I need a doubled header for a 36" wide door?
Anytime a wall is bearing you should use a double header. The size depends on the bearing load. In areas with snow, double 2x6 is more than enough. No snow, then double 2x4 is fine. Of course it is a small shed so it is not as critical for a small span like 36" - especially if you don't get snow as there really won't be much load on the bearing walls.
Is there any advantage to using a 3 stud corner in a shed?
Yes, it is stronger, but the main reason is for interior cladding - if you plan to install wall panels this provides backing in corners.
These videos are phenomenal. Quick question, you had mentioned in a previous video about using coated screws when going into PT wood. I wasn't sure, but did you use them when you put the first 2 walls up and screwed them into the floor? Obviously the studs and ply are normal wood, but the PT is under that, so I was curious as I'm going to be attempting this soon. Thanks, and again, extremely well done videos.
+D Money To be quite honest, I do not recall but assume I would have used coated and that is what I would recommend. As you say, the screws are going into PT wood. However, if you already have the walls screwed down, don't forget that they are partly going through the plywood too - which is not PT.
+Country Life Projects & Living awesome. thanks again for the reply and the great videos!
I'm three weeks into construction class and I found this very helpful, but I have a questioned, why do you use screw instead of nails? do it make any different.
Hi Xou.... I used screws simply because the videos and process focused on being able to build the shed without another person available to help. With screws, you can hold and screw various work without things moving etc. If you have a air nailer the same could be done but most people do not have this setup - but a lot of people have a screw gun (impact) or drill with a screw bit and can use screws. That said, by all means, you can use nails too. In fact, when building larger structures where shear strength is required as well as building permits, nails may be mandatory (e.g. house or garage where a person may spend time working/living).
Country Life Projects & Living thank you for responding and for your video it helps me a lot.
Thanks for sharing .
How come the gable ends aren't built first?
Hi Matthew... To make it easy for stud spacing and panel widths, I found it better to do the side walls first. On the gable ends the panels are slightly wider (x2) so there is no concern for stud spacing.
Awesome! Many thanks!
Nice video. are you using the drill hammer ?
Yes, an impact driver. Dewalt. That said, if you want to use an air nailer, you can. It is mainly about what tools you have available.
are there any negative results from using treated wood for the entire shed ..OR any negative results from using treated wood for foundation and floor with non treated wood for the remainder of the shed
John Cotoia I would always use PT material for any wood that come in contact with the ground or may frequently get wet or moist. Elsewhere I would use regular wood. That said, if you live in an area prone to termites or other insects that may feast on your shed, I would use treated lumber that is made to protect against such threats.
Country Life Projects & Living Thank you......will the glue adhere to treated lumber
John Cotoia Use a good construction adhesive like a sub-floor adhesive. PT lumber is used for decks and other outdoor projects all the time and should not be an issue. Just make sure the lumber is reasonably dry. If you are not sure about the glue you are buying, check with the building store staff first to make sure it is intended for use with PT lumber.
Thanks for taking the time to do this video!
Hi Henry, Thanks for your professionel work. I'd like to know if I can use the same technique for wall framing and trusses that you use for a small garage 14'X20' on a concrete slab that I'm working on ?
Hi Daniel... I personally would use engineered trusses for anything over 10'. Since I am not an engineer, I tend to play it safe when I am not 100% of the strength required. For sheds up to 10' wide, the truss design we used should be more than strong enough. For larger structures I prefer engineered trusses designed for the climate, snow loads etc in a particular area. They are usually very inexpensive and save time in the construction process. Plus they provide peace of mind that they are strong enough for your local climate.
should have said " when I am not 100% sure..."
Thank you for the quick response, like you said I contacted the truss compagny.
Love these videos, very helpfull.
I like it so much.
Thanks now I have a barn
Great tips here!
What type of clamps do you use to hold that
In general, We use Quick Clamps. Dewalt, Irwin etc all make them and they can be operated with one hand - very important if working alone and you are holding something with one hand and able to clamp with the other hand.
Perfect skill
when you are doing the framing why does there seem to be two studs at one end of the wall?
It is just the way 16" spacing works out and it is good to include all studs.
I see, thanks for explaining.
Great teacher
You could use a simple plumb bob to square the walls :-)
Yes you could... but the videos were optimized for the average DIY'er and most own a level, but not a plumb bob
Country Life Projects & Living Not to mention you'll pull out your hair trying to get the plumb bob not to move in a wind.
Do we need glue each timber?thanks
If you are referring to the framing of the walls the answer is no. The plywood for the floor is glued to the joists, the gussets for the trusses are glued and the LP Smart Panels later on (and there is a few other parts that I preferred to use glue as seen in later videos).
Country Life Projects & Living Thanks,sir
sie sind ein Meister
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This is so inspiring i love how you just think of things and build it!. Thank you.
Hey Henry,
I am building a small free standing screen room 12x12 ( not sure I did the right thing with the size because of material costs ) I had to build on Decor Precast concrete blocks under 6x6 posts because of unleveled ground 8 inches up on one side and 3 feet on the far side.. Its on compacted soil over clay , tried to auger out some footings with a towable auger rental , but the bit kept lodging in the clay , had to dig it out 3 times , so I gave up and went with the blocks .
Well the platform sat for a year and had little movement . before I started this screen room it was level , but now I have all the walls up and the truss's going in , it seems the floor is a inch out from the 8 inch side to the 3 foot high side, its not level and seems to have dropped , I leveled all the walls and braced them ( the build is level the platform is not ) .
My question is , should I be concerned about this unleveled platform now that its dropped about a inch on one side since my build started ? ( I have a 14X14 platform I squared the 12x12 structure on it center )..
P:s I hate seeing the bubble leave the designated are on a level and stray over the lines :(
Jerry Peckford Hi Jerry... if your walls and trusses were not done, I would say level the platform (and do what is needed to make sure it will not settle more). However, if you built the walls so the top plates are all level then there is not much in the way of options now... Without seeing exactly what you have, it sounds to me like you have no choice but to continue and finish with the platform out of level.
Thanks Henry
Pretty cool