I used to run my built Volkswagens on the fat side because a rich engine will run cooler! These motors were also air cooled and at the expense of plugs tended to run cooler. I always ran a little hotter plug to keep the engine from fouling the plugs!
There are some exceptions. The engine will be very hot (after a long period of idling ) if it is incorrectly adjusted and receives too little fuel. I experienced this myself while breaking in one of my new engines (bad factory settings). Of course, appropriate adjustments solved this problem
Most engine wear occurs on cold startup because the cylinder lining hasn't reached optimum temperature, and friction is higher in the bore as a result between the piston and liner. My engine performs best at 250F to 270F. I actually pre-heat my engine to 180-220F before starting. It reduces startup problems and also prolongs engine life. Warming up is a good idea if you do not have a way to preheat the engine. Then when you are completed with your drive, I run all fuel out of the engine and immediately rotate the flywheel so the piston is at bottom dead center. This keeps the piston from getting pinched in the upper, more narrow portion of the cylinder bore. It also prevents the piston from essentially getting "crimped" by the bore as it shrinks from cooling down. If you do this and know how to tune, you will have an engine that will last a long time, provided you have a good quality fuel. Everything matters when it comes to Nitro engine health, including air filter cleaning.
I think sometimes things are said and heard that have some truth to them but the information is the fudged or misunderstood and then it becomes a little like Chinese whispers! Nice one Haggard
Well the thing with the exhaust is that glow engines are 2 strokes like you know and so the exhaust and intake are open at the same time this is why with a 2 stroke you need an expansion chamber to run better. Without an exhaust or with just a straight pipe it will run way worse because there is no back pressure keeping the fuel in so you get less fuel that gets compressed so yes the compression stays the same but the amount of air/fuel that gets compressed is more. This is where that myth comes from
Dude i could be watching anything on utube right now but im here watching vids that you drop in the mornings and i dont even know why because i dont even nitro just electric. Maybe its just you the voice the personality or something. One thing i will say is i have learned alot about nitro just listening to your experience over time. Thank you
i warmup my engines always while standing not driving and i always start with rich setttings so the heat is always around 70 and 90 degre it depends which weather
Think of this, a typical hemi used in top fuel burns up to 15 gallons of nitro methane in a quarter mile run! They redline at around 9500 rpm! My Suzuki GS 1100 was around 11,000 rpm redline.
Hey haggard I recently told you about a problem I was having and you suggested a new clutch spring and I have got some new springs now I've put one on and not having the problem of it trying to run off at idle anymore thanks for your input mate much appreciated 👊🏻💯
I agree. Common sense tells me that you're right. I've been into Nitro for many years. When it's idling. It's much cooler I break in my engines. The Adam Drake method, and you idle 4 full tanks at 15 minutes. Let it cool down a little bit starter back up. You don't want to run them constantly flat out. You wanna modulate the throttle.
Yes, nitro engines don't need nitro to run methanol and castor synthetic whichever. The engines run off of the catalytic reaction from the methanol and the uridium and platinum in the glow plug.
i watched a few of your videos and kinda love it. just bought a lrp zr 32 spec4 pullstart. my question is how do you break in your new engines and the second question is do you know a rotostart backplate for the lrp
Very informative video! I had a similar comment running my Trophy 4.6, it was running rich (6th tank) and someone said it’ll over heat and I’ll damage it? 😂
and they are just myths mate i agree with you. just bought a fresh shell for my savage and a load of shoe goo and plasterers tape lol, wish me luck i bet it gets messy.. keep up the interesting vids dude :)
and the only time i get the thermometer out is on the break in process where youre idling through tanks at a time mate, just what i do its not gossipel
Im no professor like @rwt8851but where i lived in Australia, where it got to 46 degrees Celsiu all my RC cars ran like a dream. Now where I work and live in Asia it runs the same even though the humidity is 90%, it's just all about the tune for me.
HaG y'all need to come catch up with your crowd.i don't have carb or exhaust. Mine is injected called self injected. I run along the side of mine pouring fuel into it. It's slow though I. Can't run fast. 😂😂😂. Y'all kill me Man worried about who's PP is the biggest or who pisses farther. 😂😂. If y'all spent more time wrenching and running your machines like I do trust you'd have more fun. HaG I remember yrs ago when I started watching you never got into a pissing contest,now that's all you do 😂😂 just giving you a hard Time HaG 👊👊
Why don't we see larger nitros? Like 32cc. They would be so much more powerful than the equivalent petrol engine. There must be a reason we don't see them
I suppose you’d need sooooo much nitro fuel to run a large engine like that, stoichiometric ratio for nitro fuel is 0.5 to 1 compared to petrol which is 14.7 to 1.
Been tuning the carnage Couse running learn had riching it bit more try get them fixed keep breaking constantly the pull starter s handles come off loss string
Ill add some things first there is no such thing as a nitro engine. They are glow engines. they will run and pretty good on 0% nitro. also, nitromethane is not what is burning in the engine. the methanol is what is burning, nitro only ignites under heat and compression. heat generated by the methanol burning. which in turns ignites the nitro under compression and releases oxygen to make a hotter and faster burn. It's funny you can take a pan of pure nitro and try to light it with a match, and it won't burn. but put some on an anvil and hit it with a hammer and watch out. been there done that, i run 40% nitromethane in my real drag car with methanol when we are out in Bonneville running, and straight methanol on the drag track, you know rules for my class. I buy both of these by the 55-gallon drum for racing, but you get to mess with them also. I have obliterated many expensive parts experimenting over the years.
I used to run my built Volkswagens on the fat side because a rich engine will run cooler! These motors were also air cooled and at the expense of plugs tended to run cooler. I always ran a little hotter plug to keep the engine from fouling the plugs!
There are some exceptions. The engine will be very hot (after a long period of idling ) if it is incorrectly adjusted and receives too little fuel. I experienced this myself while breaking in one of my new engines (bad factory settings). Of course, appropriate adjustments solved this problem
Most engine wear occurs on cold startup because the cylinder lining hasn't reached optimum temperature, and friction is higher in the bore as a result between the piston and liner. My engine performs best at 250F to 270F. I actually pre-heat my engine to 180-220F before starting. It reduces startup problems and also prolongs engine life. Warming up is a good idea if you do not have a way to preheat the engine. Then when you are completed with your drive, I run all fuel out of the engine and immediately rotate the flywheel so the piston is at bottom dead center. This keeps the piston from getting pinched in the upper, more narrow portion of the cylinder bore. It also prevents the piston from essentially getting "crimped" by the bore as it shrinks from cooling down. If you do this and know how to tune, you will have an engine that will last a long time, provided you have a good quality fuel. Everything matters when it comes to Nitro engine health, including air filter cleaning.
This. Excellent
I think sometimes things are said and heard that have some truth to them but the information is the fudged or misunderstood and then it becomes a little like Chinese whispers! Nice one Haggard
Well the thing with the exhaust is that glow engines are 2 strokes like you know and so the exhaust and intake are open at the same time this is why with a 2 stroke you need an expansion chamber to run better. Without an exhaust or with just a straight pipe it will run way worse because there is no back pressure keeping the fuel in so you get less fuel that gets compressed so yes the compression stays the same but the amount of air/fuel that gets compressed is more. This is where that myth comes from
🤟
Dude i could be watching anything on utube right now but im here watching vids that you drop in the mornings and i dont even know why because i dont even nitro just electric. Maybe its just you the voice the personality or something. One thing i will say is i have learned alot about nitro just listening to your experience over time. Thank you
Well thanks for watching it means a lot :)
Good knowledge mate, I've got about another 450 of your videos to get though, Thanks for the uploads
i warmup my engines always while standing not driving and i always start with rich setttings so the heat is always around 70 and 90 degre it depends which weather
Think of this, a typical hemi used in top fuel burns up to 15 gallons of nitro methane in a quarter mile run! They redline at around 9500 rpm! My Suzuki GS 1100 was around 11,000 rpm redline.
Hey haggard I recently told you about a problem I was having and you suggested a new clutch spring and I have got some new springs now I've put one on and not having the problem of it trying to run off at idle anymore thanks for your input mate much appreciated 👊🏻💯
Anytime man!
I agree. Common sense tells me that you're right. I've been into Nitro for many years. When it's idling. It's much cooler I break in my engines. The Adam Drake method, and you idle 4 full tanks at 15 minutes. Let it cool down a little bit starter back up. You don't want to run them constantly flat out. You wanna modulate the throttle.
Yes, nitro engines don't need nitro to run methanol and castor synthetic whichever. The engines run off of the catalytic reaction from the methanol and the uridium and platinum in the glow plug.
That's it, the same goes for all engines.... change the RPM and loads and it'll be a good engine.
i watched a few of your videos and kinda love it. just bought a lrp zr 32 spec4 pullstart. my question is how do you break in your new engines and the second question is do you know a rotostart backplate for the lrp
Just do a few tanks on tick over that'll be fine and I don't know of a specific rotostart for them sorry 😊
May I ask, Are you running indoors? if yes how do you such and what caution do you take?
Hi my nitro zorro you can't pin the throttle it just cuts out. If you ease it in it still hesitations a little but will pull away can you help
Sounds like you're LS needle is out of adjustment I would back the LS needle out a quarter turn and see if that makes a difference.
👍 Great stuff have just tried it and sounds and pulls better thanks
I have boats and am always weryed about them warming up and then throwing them into cool water..
Very informative video! I had a similar comment running my Trophy 4.6, it was running rich (6th tank) and someone said it’ll over heat and I’ll damage it? 😂
Nah rubbish… if anything it’ll run too cold but it’s not worth worrying about lol.
and they are just myths mate i agree with you. just bought a fresh shell for my savage and a load of shoe goo and plasterers tape lol, wish me luck i bet it gets messy.. keep up the interesting vids dude :)
I keep meaning to do that myself
Well explained !!!!
and the only time i get the thermometer out is on the break in process where youre idling through tanks at a time mate, just what i do its not gossipel
Im no professor like @rwt8851but where i lived in Australia, where it got to 46 degrees Celsiu all my RC cars ran like a dream. Now where I work and live in Asia it runs the same even though the humidity is 90%, it's just all about the tune for me.
That’s exactly right. You tune for the weather. The weather doesn’t control you.
Great sound imitation ;) next time you can lay it over a running video 🤣
😂
I can probably get you some tick over temperature test footage if you want.
Nice video mate. 👍always before play. Hows the weather there? Wooo. Take care mate. 💥💯👍👊🏻
New to nitro , what's a safe temp to stay at, after say a fifteen minute bash i have aTmaxx
100°C but don’t worry it’ll run all day and be fine. Enjoy it 🙃
In car engines you can add an oil cooler and your engine will run cooler it's a fact
HaG y'all need to come catch up with your crowd.i don't have carb or exhaust. Mine is injected called self injected. I run along the side of mine pouring fuel into it. It's slow though I. Can't run fast. 😂😂😂. Y'all kill me Man worried about who's PP is the biggest or who pisses farther. 😂😂. If y'all spent more time wrenching and running your machines like I do trust you'd have more fun. HaG I remember yrs ago when I started watching you never got into a pissing contest,now that's all you do 😂😂 just giving you a hard Time HaG 👊👊
You're welcome here to see who can piss further anytime 🤣
Why don't we see larger nitros? Like 32cc. They would be so much more powerful than the equivalent petrol engine. There must be a reason we don't see them
I suppose you’d need sooooo much nitro fuel to run a large engine like that, stoichiometric ratio for nitro fuel is 0.5 to 1 compared to petrol which is 14.7 to 1.
Been tuning the carnage Couse running learn had riching it bit more try get them fixed keep breaking constantly the pull starter s handles come off loss string
Set your needle lean Runner wide open my way
I'm thinking of putting a high output Rcs motor fan on top of head to keep it cool just a idea
That’s nothing but a waste of time, it’ll keep itself cool because the head is designed to do just that 🤘🏻
Ill add some things first there is no such thing as a nitro engine. They are glow engines. they will run and pretty good on 0% nitro. also, nitromethane is not what is burning in the engine. the methanol is what is burning, nitro only ignites under heat and compression. heat generated by the methanol burning. which in turns ignites the nitro under compression and releases oxygen to make a hotter and faster burn. It's funny you can take a pan of pure nitro and try to light it with a match, and it won't burn. but put some on an anvil and hit it with a hammer and watch out. been there done that, i run 40% nitromethane in my real drag car with methanol when we are out in Bonneville running, and straight methanol on the drag track, you know rules for my class. I buy both of these by the 55-gallon drum for racing, but you get to mess with them also. I have obliterated many expensive parts experimenting over the years.
Ye bud noticed more learn hotter it is more learn less nitro fule it's hotter then running rich