The coolant pump plugs are not weather-sealed properly. They are known to corrode too quickly on these model fusions, due to the location near the bottom of the car and exposure to water from the roads. The pumps prematurely burn out from the current draw caused by this corrosion. Unplug it, sand the prongs off, spray some deoxit on them, and you're good to go. If it still doesn't work your pumps have been cooked internally. A dangerous problem to have, but it immediately fixed my problem on a 2015 Fusion. I got a coolant warning and I knew I had to absolutely look into it THAT NIGHT or I wasn't driving it. Luckily, it was super easy. Took 15 minutes.
Me again. I followed the advice and ordered a new coolant pump. I had the dealership install it. They were a little . . . I dunno, but they did it. Afterwards, I drove 110 miles at highway speed and no problem. Previously, I could barely go 30 highway miles without the warning lights coming on. Thank you so much.
Ford Dealers 🙄 I called 5 dealers trying to get the Mercon LV changed in my 2013 C-Max. One said they could “power flush” my transmission for $179. No thanks, this car has an HF-35 transaxle, drain and fill. No power flush needed. Next dealer says transmission is factory sealed, no service required 🙄. Next Ford dealer said they would have to call me back, she couldn’t quote a price for the service🙄. Next Ford dealership put me on hold forever, so I hung up after 10 minutes. Found independent shop, he told me to pick up the Mercon LV on my way to his shop. He even let me watch him perform the drain and fill (I didn’t even ask) and we chatted about cars and trucks(nice guy). If you can find an honest independent shop, tip him generously, they are GOLD!
My dealership in California did it for me at 60k when I requested it. The mechanic told me that they actually get a lot of Ford Fusion hybrids with transmission issues and that she thought it was a good idea to get it flushed and treat it as a normal automatic transmission when it comes to getting the fluid changed.
This is exactly what my 2012 Ford Fusion does! I have had it in the Ford Shop 3 times. They would add coolant, did things to the pump, but did not replace it. The third time they said it needs a whole new transaxle at $15,000! I will see about getting this pump replaced. thank you so much. And I will let you know.
@@gaoussoudoucoure4424 nope. Brought it to Ford and another place. Both said 2 totally different different things costing over $10k each. Just ended up getting rid of the car. Would not have been worth the hassle.
@@ryanm5510 that’s true. Thank you for the reply. I don’t know what codes were you dealing with but I’m dealing with code different from this video. But the car starts and shut off after couple seconds with the message “Stop Safely Now”
I got that because I blocked the airflow in front of the back seat where the computer and drive battery is! Once I cleared the blockage and let that area cool it started and ran right since then! I have a 2011 Ford Fusion hybrid!
Good afternoon. I watched your amazing video. You show a very deep understanding of the processes in the car! Can I ask you for help? (sorry for my English, I am a refugee and I have only been learning your language for 3 months). I have a 2013 FORD C-MAX ENERGI. I bought it used and drove it for a month without any problems. Then the problems started. First the "check engine" light came on. And a few days later the STOP SAFELY NOW message started appearing. But it appeared differently, and not as indicated in your video (8 seconds after the start and when I turn on the car, I do not hear a loud rattling sound). Here's what I noticed about this problem: 1) It always occurs only when I am driving and press the brake pedal. It never happens when I press the gas pedal or don't press anything. 2) At the same time, the steering wheel is blocked and I have difficulty driving to the side of the road. 3) At the same time, the climate system fan turns on at maximum speed, but air is not supplied to the cabin. 4) At the same time, the car cannot be turned off if I press the brake pedal. I can only turn off the car if I take my foot off the brake pedal. 5) IMPORTANT!!!! After turning off, I wait for 7 to 15 minutes, then I hear a short buzzing sound inside the machine (1-3 seconds). Then I turn the car on, the STOP SAFELY NOW indicator does not appear, the engine starts and I can drive again. If I try to turn on the car before the buzzing sound inside, the car turns on, but the message STOP SAFELY NOW appears and the car does not move. I always wait for the buzzing sound and then I can drive again. After this switching on, when I can already drive, I have 3 display options on the panel: a) there are no error messages on the panel. In this case, the STOP SAFELY NOW problem may happen again and again, even after a few minutes. b) the "check engine" light is on. In this case, the STOP SAFELY NOW problem also may appear again and again, even after a few minutes. c) the “check engine” and “wrench” indicators are on. In this case, I can drive as long as I like and the STOP SAFELY NOW problem does not recur. But I noticed that in this mode the car does not switch to driving with an electric motor. The car runs only on a gasoline engine. In all three options, the indicator shows that the battery is charging. Sometimes, after parking for more than 1 hour, I turn on the car and the "check engine" and "wrench" lights immediately come on. In this case, I know for sure that STOP SAFELY NOW will not appear and I drive a lot without problems (only with a gasoline engine). The problem can only appear when the "wrench" indicator is off. In addition, I noticed that sometimes when I drive at a very low speed (for example, in a traffic jam), I feel periodic jolts (jerks). It seems like something in the mechanics is trying to connect, but it doesn’t work. When I accelerate, the jolts (jerks) disappear. During of three months, 2 times happens these jolts (jerks) turned into strong vibration. I stopped, turned off the car, turned it on after some time and there was no more vibration. I left the same comment under your other video about the STOP SAFELY NOW problem. I will be very grateful for your comments on my problem!!!!❤❤❤
Is it difficult to replace this pump on my own? I am not a mechanic but if it only requires a simple swap out with a couple bolts, is it easy for a novice?
2015 fusion hybrid had the stop light but it went away....been to the shop and they can't find any issues. I've put about 3k miles on it since and it drives very smooth
@@coochiecrook7120 it definitely doesn’t mean the cars done. There’s several things that are simple fixes that can bring up that symbol. Over heating electronics comes to mind. Unless it acts up and sets some codes were all just guessing. If it does act up again, make sure that the shop can read codes from all the modules on the vehicle, not just the pcm. SOBDMC is the one I’m thinking your going to find codes in.
Hello! Pretty useful video! I had today same indicator an message" stop safely now". Luckily I got this while my wife and dog were waiting in parking lot. So, while parked, AC on, suddenly the message poped up, and engine stopped. I tried several to restart(even after 2 h cooling off) , the init phase was ok, and when trying to press the acceleration, nothing happened and then the car stopped. I put the car at Ford representative, so on Monday they diagnose them. Do you think is similar behaviour with cases you've been confronted or different? My Ford is 2018 model- in Europe is Mondeo hybrid 2.0 engine.
Well, the topic is old than a year and the issue was a simple mechanical problem: fuel pump was broken...so the engine was not supplied with petrol. They figured out after 1week ( no DTC on fuel pump - that a big minus), an old mechanic asked to see if the petrol is pumped....Afterwards, replacing the pump was a drama!! 4 weeks to get a new one. Entire supply chain was jammed due to poor fuel pump quality- I check across the Europe and as well in New York and California. So they were testing every batch( Europe and US as well) of pumps. Now after 20k km all is good, no issues so far, runs smoothly with average consumption from 4.5l/km to max 6.5l/km. Love that car. BtW, the car model is not provided anymore in Europe...
I am having the same issue with my 2016 ford fusion hybrid. The engine won't start at all. If I disconnect the 12v battery and reconnect it I feel like the electric engine starts but not sure. The only indicator is that the power steering is working but the car won't move forward or backward. The only code I have is: P1A0C (hybrid powertrain control module- engine inherited) Ford says it's the transmission. (Does the bad transmission cause the gas engin not to start or crank at all and disable it?)
A problem in the transmission can definitely make the gas engine not crank / start. The electric motors in the transmission are actually used to start the gas engine.
@@CarShopTalk According to the code I have, do you suggest me to replace the transmission (what ford dealership wants me to do), or try something else first? Thank you!
@@MrGhassan2006 P1A0C really isn’t enough information to base that on. It’s an informational code that really just means a problem has been detected and the engine is being disabled because of it. There are a lot of things that could cause it. Usually there are additional codes with it that point to the problem and they may be contained in a different module. A transmission problem or failure could definitely cause this and be the problem.
@@MrGhassan2006 Hello Ghassan i have same car 2016 ford Fusion hybrid with same problem just want to check with you if you figured out what was the problem for not starting the engine?
@@moehafez2873 it was the transmission. In those cars, the starter locates inside the transmission and the transmission is the most common problem on those ford fusions. Replace the transmission and it will fix the issue.
It uses the high voltage motors inside the transaxle to start the engine, so no it wouldn’t, but it won’t let you deplete the batteries to that level before shutting down. I’ve only seen that once, and that was a training vehicle used by the automotive program at a community college. It had sat for several years and the high voltage battery was dead. I’d have to look and see what the procedure is on a 2014, it’s varied over the years, but there is a way to charge the high voltage battery and bring it back if this ever occurs.
Can you get this and there be a problem even if codes are not showing up? I've had this icon come on twice. I'm also having issues with my gear knob not turning or it turns with a lot of resistance. But when I took it to Ford they said it's not pulling nay codes. I'm so frustrated because there has been times where my gears are stuck for 5 or more minutes stuck in drive or reverse.
It’s probably not impossible, but I’d be surprised. If someone is scanning it with a cheap code reader that just scans the PCM it might not show anything, but I’d be surprised if there weren’t codes in the SOBDMC or some of the other modules. The best would be Forscan or a Ford IDS scanner. If you’re just having codes pulled at an OReillys or other auto parts store I doubt there scanner would talk to anything besides the PCM. My usually go to is Forscan Light on an iPhone with an Obdlink mx+ Bluetooth connector. That set up should be able to read codes from every module on almost any Ford.
With mine my brake light first turned on then the stop safely sign and my car looses acceleration and shuts off. Now the brake light is always on my hybrid battery doesn't seem to function properly and with the brake light on every so often the car will loose acceleration and shut down any thoughts?
Thanks for sharing this video! I have a 2012 Ford Fusion Hybrid with the same problem: stop safety now light on and the engine stalls. I went to a Ford dealer, they got the same exact codes and they said the car needs a new transmission, which will cost much more than the car value. What can I do?
If it’s just the over heat codes like the video shows it seams likely it would be the electric water pump, not the transmission. I’d ask them what the diagnostic steps they took were that led them to it being a transmission failure. If they actually went through the diagnostic steps the repair order should have the steps and results documented on it. If it just says “retrieved dtc’s, needs transmission replaced,” I’d be a little skeptical. If you don’t trust or believe the shop there’s no reason you can’t tow it to another shop and get another opinion. You’ll probably owe a diagnostic charge to them and usually that’s an hour at most shops. If another shop gives you the same diagnosis, fine. If not I would probably argue about it with them. Unfortunately there are still a lot of techs in the world that just retrieve the codes and say it needs something replaced and don’t really diagnose it.
@@CarShopTalk Thanks for your reply! The shop is a Ford dealer, they should know what they are doing, right? Their report: "Diagnosis transmission verify concern, IDS Hook up, Retrieve DTC's P1A14, POA3E, inspect transmission fluid level, fluid level full but burnt, inspect shifter linkage for any adjustments, inspect for any calibration updates, the vehicle has the latest calibration, performed pinpoint test, per pinpoint test to install a new transaxle assy. Will retest and advise if any further repairs are needed after repairs." The price for the repair is much more than the car's value.
@@maudonnet Well, they should know what they’re doing lol. If I get a chance I’ll flip through the book and see if it’s possible to get there from those two codes. It probably is possible if the transmission is causing the over heat, but it seems like there would be some transmission codes with it and probably some other issues since the transmissions motor, generator or controller would have to be generating a lot of excess heat for some reason. Even bearing failures on that transmission to the point of grinding a hole through the case usually don’t flag over heating codes. I guess what we’re really wanting to know is if someone verified the coolant pump is running when it flags those codes / when it’s over heating. If I remember correctly that pump runs any time the keys in the running position and makes an audible hum and you can feel it running if you put your hand on it or touch it with a long screw driver if things are hot. I’d ask them if they checked that the electric coolant pump for the transmission electronics is running when they’re over heating since it’s been known to cause this issue. That’s a pretty direct question and should be a yes or no answer. If I remember right the book diagnostics is horrible for these codes.
@@CarShopTalk Thanks! I'll try to talk to them, although they keep saying "we've done all the procedures that Ford Motor Company tells us to do." I'll probably try another shop to get a second opinion. If your shop is located in Southern California let me know!
@@CarShopTalk my Ford dealership charges $162 for that diagnostic test so you want them to fix it! Rip off as they charged me that for a window regulator bad!
Search on parking break warning light I think there is a way you have to clear the code on the machine if you replaced breakes. I read about it for these but I’m not sure
I bought my 2011 fusion hybrid used, I am having this issue but when I look at the pumps, I have two pumps, one higher up and one lower, does that seem correct?
I’d have to see it, but Ford does run multiple electric pumps on some vehicles. Usually the other is to circulate warm coolant through the heater when the gas engines not running.
If the batteries over heat it could definitely give you the stop safely now message. There should be a battery over heat code in the SOBDMC, PCM, or both if that happens.
It’s been quite a while since I’ve seen one with that problem and I honestly don’t remember how much it was. I don’t remember it being anything ridiculous.
Did you pull all codes on all modules with Forscan or an IDS? Or just the PCM with a generic code reader like an O’Reillys or something? It’s rare you get something like that with no codes.
@@michaelspatz3455 Get all codes pulled from all the modules. I would guess you’re going to have a code in a battery control module or something else that will point you in the direction of the problem. An IDS is probably the best for that, but Forscan is a close second. If it’s forscan make sure it’s an obd adapter capable of talking to multiple networks like an obdlink MX+ Bluetooth or equivalent. I use forscan light on an iPhone with the before mentioned adapter for preliminary diagnosis most of the time and it still shocks me all the capabilities it has. Sometime in the future I’m probably going to do a video on this subject, but get the codes from all the modules and I think you’ll find your problem.
SOMEONE PLEASE HELP! I drive a 2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid! 112,000 miles! I bought it off Copart & fixed it up! It was going good for a month then I was driving on the highway a week ago and the car shut off & a red triangle came up saying stop safely now! Also the check engine light came on solid. So I pulled over & turned the car off. Then when I turn the car back on everything is gone except for an exclamation point light that has always been there. Also it was saying change TPSM so I did and that went away. Now it says Tire pressure low but when I go to put air in my tires they are already above 32! Anyway so the stop safely now and check engine light keeps popping up and the car shuts off then when I re start the car I am able to drive like normal again until it randomly pops up again! Please help! I’ve tried looking online but I can’t find nothing specific!
Did you get a full vehicle history to check the carfax and vehicle check history to make sure it was never in any accidents, had repair orders/work on it or any recalls? TPSM is your tire pressure system management, there are sensors located in the rims/wheels of the tires on the outer edges. They’re there to notify of running a flat tire or if air is low or escaping. As far as your car having a warning symbol and light on the dash saying there’s check engine light and light to stop safely now, there’s definitely a problem with your transmission and engine. It might be something like catching right like the clutch or slip differential. Do you fix cars yourself?
Change the the pump and be sure to put the right amount of antifreeze in the hybrid antifreeze bottle that's located at the back of engine. I have a 2010 Fusion Hybrid and experienced the exact same thing. I bought pump from Ford for about $60 two years ago. Take the path of least resistance first. Installation is simple and won't take a hour or less. Very important to ad proper amount of antifreeze in Hybrid bottle. Check levels and recheck as the antifreeze has to circulate through the system to reach proper levels.
@@donfenderson Is it difficult to replace this pump on my own? I am not a mechanic but if it only requires a simple swap out with a couple bolts, is it easy for a novice?
The coolant pump plugs are not weather-sealed properly. They are known to corrode too quickly on these model fusions, due to the location near the bottom of the car and exposure to water from the roads. The pumps prematurely burn out from the current draw caused by this corrosion. Unplug it, sand the prongs off, spray some deoxit on them, and you're good to go. If it still doesn't work your pumps have been cooked internally. A dangerous problem to have, but it immediately fixed my problem on a 2015 Fusion. I got a coolant warning and I knew I had to absolutely look into it THAT NIGHT or I wasn't driving it. Luckily, it was super easy. Took 15 minutes.
Which pump you replaced I have a 2014 and replaced the two near the radiator still same problem overheating I herd it’s a third one near the firewall?
Me again. I followed the advice and ordered a new coolant pump. I had the dealership install it. They were a little . . . I dunno, but they did it. Afterwards, I drove 110 miles at highway speed and no problem. Previously, I could barely go 30 highway miles without the warning lights coming on. Thank you so much.
Glad you got it fixed.
Hey was it easy to fix
An excellent example of a how to video. Well done sir wish you continued success in all endeavors.
Thanks!
This guy new name is Car God! Real mechanic information! God got a special seat for you friend. Thanks again
Glad to help. You’re welcome!
This video was awesome. Short and to the point with great example shots. Thanks!
Thanks. Glad you enjoyed it.
Thank you for your wisdom, there’s always something new to learn.
Ford Dealers 🙄 I called 5 dealers trying to get the Mercon LV changed in my 2013 C-Max. One said they could “power flush” my transmission for $179. No thanks, this car has an HF-35 transaxle, drain and fill. No power flush needed. Next dealer says transmission is factory sealed, no service required 🙄. Next Ford dealer said they would have to call me back, she couldn’t quote a price for the service🙄. Next Ford dealership put me on hold forever, so I hung up after 10 minutes. Found independent shop, he told me to pick up the Mercon LV on my way to his shop. He even let me watch him perform the drain and fill (I didn’t even ask) and we chatted about cars and trucks(nice guy). If you can find an honest independent shop, tip him generously, they are GOLD!
My dealership in California did it for me at 60k when I requested it. The mechanic told me that they actually get a lot of Ford Fusion hybrids with transmission issues and that she thought it was a good idea to get it flushed and treat it as a normal automatic transmission when it comes to getting the fluid changed.
This is exactly what my 2012 Ford Fusion does! I have had it in the Ford Shop 3 times. They would add coolant, did things to the pump, but did not replace it. The third time they said it needs a whole new transaxle at $15,000! I will see about getting this pump replaced. thank you so much. And I will let you know.
What I'm going through right now with Ford on my 2010. They are telling me I need a new transmission and asking about the same. Insane.
@@ryanm5510Hey did you got it fix?
@@gaoussoudoucoure4424 nope. Brought it to Ford and another place. Both said 2 totally different different things costing over $10k each. Just ended up getting rid of the car. Would not have been worth the hassle.
@@ryanm5510 that’s true. Thank you for the reply. I don’t know what codes were you dealing with but I’m dealing with code different from this video. But the car starts and shut off after couple seconds with the message “Stop Safely Now”
Did you get it fixed?
I want you to know that your vid was a big help. Thx. I replaced the Aux Coolant Pump and all the issues went away.
Thanks! I’m glad it helped.
I got that because I blocked the airflow in front of the back seat where the computer and drive battery is! Once I cleared the blockage and let that area cool it started and ran right since then! I have a 2011 Ford Fusion hybrid!
Hi Robert can you show where and what exactly you unblocked? thank you
Yes, please specify 😅
Good afternoon. I watched your amazing video. You show a very deep understanding of the processes in the car!
Can I ask you for help? (sorry for my English, I am a refugee and I have only been learning your language for 3 months). I have a 2013 FORD C-MAX ENERGI. I bought it used and drove it for a month without any problems. Then the problems started.
First the "check engine" light came on. And a few days later the STOP SAFELY NOW message started appearing. But it appeared differently, and not as indicated in your video (8 seconds after the start and when I turn on the car, I do not hear a loud rattling sound). Here's what I noticed about this problem:
1) It always occurs only when I am driving and press the brake pedal. It never happens when I press the gas pedal or don't press anything.
2) At the same time, the steering wheel is blocked and I have difficulty driving to the side of the road.
3) At the same time, the climate system fan turns on at maximum speed, but air is not supplied to the cabin.
4) At the same time, the car cannot be turned off if I press the brake pedal. I can only turn off the car if I take my foot off the brake pedal.
5) IMPORTANT!!!! After turning off, I wait for 7 to 15 minutes, then I hear a short buzzing sound inside the machine (1-3 seconds). Then I turn the car on, the STOP SAFELY NOW indicator does not appear, the engine starts and I can drive again.
If I try to turn on the car before the buzzing sound inside, the car turns on, but the message STOP SAFELY NOW appears and the car does not move. I always wait for the buzzing sound and then I can drive again.
After this switching on, when I can already drive, I have 3 display options on the panel:
a) there are no error messages on the panel. In this case, the STOP SAFELY NOW problem may happen again and again, even after a few minutes.
b) the "check engine" light is on. In this case, the STOP SAFELY NOW problem also may appear again and again, even after a few minutes.
c) the “check engine” and “wrench” indicators are on. In this case, I can drive as long as I like and the STOP SAFELY NOW problem does not recur. But I noticed that in this mode the car does not switch to driving with an electric motor. The car runs only on a gasoline engine.
In all three options, the indicator shows that the battery is charging.
Sometimes, after parking for more than 1 hour, I turn on the car and the "check engine" and "wrench" lights immediately come on. In this case, I know for sure that STOP SAFELY NOW will not appear and I drive a lot without problems (only with a gasoline engine). The problem can only appear when the "wrench" indicator is off.
In addition, I noticed that sometimes when I drive at a very low speed (for example, in a traffic jam), I feel periodic jolts (jerks). It seems like something in the mechanics is trying to connect, but it doesn’t work. When I accelerate, the jolts (jerks) disappear. During of three months, 2 times happens these jolts (jerks) turned into strong vibration. I stopped, turned off the car, turned it on after some time and there was no more vibration.
I left the same comment under your other video about the STOP SAFELY NOW problem. I will be very grateful for your comments on my problem!!!!❤❤❤
Very helpful video! Thanks so much!
Thanks! You’re welcome.
I guess I forgot to add, yes it worked $200 pump installed and no problem for one year now.
Glad to hear it!
In the middle of this right now too with my 2011 lincoln mkz hybrid. I'll replace it and give an update.
Did it work?
auxiliary water pump fixed mine, its easy access from underneath, located on the driver's side, bottom of the radiator bolted to the frame
It is. I didn’t have the car on a hoist when I decided to do a video.
Do I have to do any bleeding after replacing? If so where is it located?
Is it difficult to replace this pump on my own? I am not a mechanic but if it only requires a simple swap out with a couple bolts, is it easy for a novice?
2015 fusion hybrid had the stop light but it went away....been to the shop and they can't find any issues. I've put about 3k miles on it since and it drives very smooth
That’s strange if it didn’t set any codes or anything.
@@CarShopTalk Yeah it drives well. I was told that warning meant my car was done. But not the case so far
And no more engine lights!
@@coochiecrook7120 it definitely doesn’t mean the cars done. There’s several things that are simple fixes that can bring up that symbol. Over heating electronics comes to mind. Unless it acts up and sets some codes were all just guessing. If it does act up again, make sure that the shop can read codes from all the modules on the vehicle, not just the pcm. SOBDMC is the one I’m thinking your going to find codes in.
Hello, theres 2 water pumps correct? Which one could be the main issue to start with. I have a 2010 for fusion hybrid
Just had this happen to my Ford Fusion Hybrid yesterday! How much was it for parts & labor. Looks like I’ll have to take this into a Ford Dealer
I don’t remember the pump being to outrages, but it’s been a while since I’ve done one. Shop rates vary quite a bit by region.
I have the same issue. Can someone tell me how much is the estimate to fix this problem? So I feel like i'm not getting overcharged
Same issue stop starting dealership said hybrid battery needs replacement we replaced both batteries car still won't start
Hello! Pretty useful video! I had today same indicator an message" stop safely now". Luckily I got this while my wife and dog were waiting in parking lot. So, while parked, AC on, suddenly the message poped up, and engine stopped. I tried several to restart(even after 2 h cooling off) , the init phase was ok, and when trying to press the acceleration, nothing happened and then the car stopped. I put the car at Ford representative, so on Monday they diagnose them. Do you think is similar behaviour with cases you've been confronted or different? My Ford is 2018 model- in Europe is Mondeo hybrid 2.0 engine.
It sounds similar, but I can’t say I’ve seen this issue on any that new.
So i,had same problem what did they did to your car
Im also curious, I am thinking of getting a monedeo hybrid.
Well, the topic is old than a year and the issue was a simple mechanical problem: fuel pump was broken...so the engine was not supplied with petrol. They figured out after 1week ( no DTC on fuel pump - that a big minus), an old mechanic asked to see if the petrol is pumped....Afterwards, replacing the pump was a drama!! 4 weeks to get a new one. Entire supply chain was jammed due to poor fuel pump quality- I check across the Europe and as well in New York and California. So they were testing every batch( Europe and US as well) of pumps. Now after 20k km all is good, no issues so far, runs smoothly with average consumption from 4.5l/km to max 6.5l/km. Love that car. BtW, the car model is not provided anymore in Europe...
I am having the same issue with my 2016 ford fusion hybrid. The engine won't start at all. If I disconnect the 12v battery and reconnect it I feel like the electric engine starts but not sure. The only indicator is that the power steering is working but the car won't move forward or backward.
The only code I have is: P1A0C (hybrid powertrain control module- engine inherited)
Ford says it's the transmission.
(Does the bad transmission cause the gas engin not to start or crank at all and disable it?)
A problem in the transmission can definitely make the gas engine not crank / start. The electric motors in the transmission are actually used to start the gas engine.
@@CarShopTalk According to the code I have, do you suggest me to replace the transmission (what ford dealership wants me to do), or try something else first?
Thank you!
@@MrGhassan2006 P1A0C really isn’t enough information to base that on. It’s an informational code that really just means a problem has been detected and the engine is being disabled because of it. There are a lot of things that could cause it. Usually there are additional codes with it that point to the problem and they may be contained in a different module. A transmission problem or failure could definitely cause this and be the problem.
@@MrGhassan2006 Hello Ghassan i have same car 2016 ford Fusion hybrid with same problem just want to check with you if you figured out what was the problem for not starting the engine?
@@moehafez2873 it was the transmission.
In those cars, the starter locates inside the transmission and the transmission is the most common problem on those ford fusions. Replace the transmission and it will fix the issue.
i really like your video .i bought a 2014 liclon mxz 2.0 hybird' will this still run with your hybird batterys complete dead
It uses the high voltage motors inside the transaxle to start the engine, so no it wouldn’t, but it won’t let you deplete the batteries to that level before shutting down. I’ve only seen that once, and that was a training vehicle used by the automotive program at a community college. It had sat for several years and the high voltage battery was dead. I’d have to look and see what the procedure is on a 2014, it’s varied over the years, but there is a way to charge the high voltage battery and bring it back if this ever occurs.
I have that problem right now, the hybrid battery is completely dead .What would be that procedure
Can you get this and there be a problem even if codes are not showing up? I've had this icon come on twice. I'm also having issues with my gear knob not turning or it turns with a lot of resistance. But when I took it to Ford they said it's not pulling nay codes. I'm so frustrated because there has been times where my gears are stuck for 5 or more minutes stuck in drive or reverse.
It’s probably not impossible, but I’d be surprised. If someone is scanning it with a cheap code reader that just scans the PCM it might not show anything, but I’d be surprised if there weren’t codes in the SOBDMC or some of the other modules. The best would be Forscan or a Ford IDS scanner. If you’re just having codes pulled at an OReillys or other auto parts store I doubt there scanner would talk to anything besides the PCM. My usually go to is Forscan Light on an iPhone with an Obdlink mx+ Bluetooth connector. That set up should be able to read codes from every module on almost any Ford.
With mine my brake light first turned on then the stop safely sign and my car looses acceleration and shuts off. Now the brake light is always on my hybrid battery doesn't seem to function properly and with the brake light on every so often the car will loose acceleration and shut down any thoughts?
I’d want to start by getting all the codes pulled, especially from the SOBDMC.
Thanks for sharing this video! I have a 2012 Ford Fusion Hybrid with the same problem: stop safety now light on and the engine stalls. I went to a Ford dealer, they got the same exact codes and they said the car needs a new transmission, which will cost much more than the car value. What can I do?
If it’s just the over heat codes like the video shows it seams likely it would be the electric water pump, not the transmission. I’d ask them what the diagnostic steps they took were that led them to it being a transmission failure. If they actually went through the diagnostic steps the repair order should have the steps and results documented on it. If it just says “retrieved dtc’s, needs transmission replaced,” I’d be a little skeptical. If you don’t trust or believe the shop there’s no reason you can’t tow it to another shop and get another opinion.
You’ll probably owe a diagnostic charge to them and usually that’s an hour at most shops. If another shop gives you the same diagnosis, fine. If not I would probably argue about it with them. Unfortunately there are still a lot of techs in the world that just retrieve the codes and say it needs something replaced and don’t really diagnose it.
@@CarShopTalk Thanks for your reply! The shop is a Ford dealer, they should know what they are doing, right? Their report: "Diagnosis transmission verify concern, IDS Hook up, Retrieve DTC's P1A14, POA3E, inspect transmission fluid level, fluid level full but burnt, inspect shifter linkage for any adjustments, inspect for any calibration updates, the vehicle has the latest calibration, performed pinpoint test, per pinpoint test to install a new transaxle assy. Will retest and advise if any further repairs are needed after repairs." The price for the repair is much more than the car's value.
@@maudonnet Well, they should know what they’re doing lol. If I get a chance I’ll flip through the book and see if it’s possible to get there from those two codes. It probably is possible if the transmission is causing the over heat, but it seems like there would be some transmission codes with it and probably some other issues since the transmissions motor, generator or controller would have to be generating a lot of excess heat for some reason. Even bearing failures on that transmission to the point of grinding a hole through the case usually don’t flag over heating codes. I guess what we’re really wanting to know is if someone verified the coolant pump is running when it flags those codes / when it’s over heating. If I remember correctly that pump runs any time the keys in the running position and makes an audible hum and you can feel it running if you put your hand on it or touch it with a long screw driver if things are hot. I’d ask them if they checked that the electric coolant pump for the transmission electronics is running when they’re over heating since it’s been known to cause this issue. That’s a pretty direct question and should be a yes or no answer. If I remember right the book diagnostics is horrible for these codes.
@@CarShopTalk Thanks! I'll try to talk to them, although they keep saying "we've done all the procedures that Ford Motor Company tells us to do." I'll probably try another shop to get a second opinion. If your shop is located in Southern California let me know!
@@CarShopTalk my Ford dealership charges $162 for that diagnostic test so you want them to fix it! Rip off as they charged me that for a window regulator bad!
My 2010 hybrid car gave me this message after replacing the brakes and everytime I put it on parking it turns off. Why is that? Please help
Search on parking break warning light I think there is a way you have to clear the code on the machine if you replaced breakes. I read about it for these but I’m not sure
I bought my 2011 fusion hybrid used, I am having this issue but when I look at the pumps, I have two pumps, one higher up and one lower, does that seem correct?
I’d have to see it, but Ford does run multiple electric pumps on some vehicles. Usually the other is to circulate warm coolant through the heater when the gas engines not running.
@@CarShopTalk I would appreciate it, they look like the same pumps but can't totally tell.
@@stephenkeierleber3584you have two water pumps, your normal one connected to the engine, and a small one just of radiator fan.
could this problem also occur if the hybrid battery cooling fans not working?
If the batteries over heat it could definitely give you the stop safely now message. There should be a battery over heat code in the SOBDMC, PCM, or both if that happens.
Hi. I have 2011 Ford Fusion hybrid. I changed the electrical pump and doing same thing. Red triangle and stop safely now.
thank you! how much does it cost to fix?
It’s been quite a while since I’ve seen one with that problem and I honestly don’t remember how much it was. I don’t remember it being anything ridiculous.
@@CarShopTalk Thank you! This is exactly the situation with my 2012 Fusion. I hope it's a fix; I really appreciate your post and extra help!
@@vickieshampellis8925 no problem. Glad to help
Do you think this would be the same issue for a 2014 hybrid? Thank you.
im also asking
Mine is a 2014 hybrid and gives the stop safely now mode, but gives no codes. Any thoughts?
Did you pull all codes on all modules with Forscan or an IDS? Or just the PCM with a generic code reader like an O’Reillys or something? It’s rare you get something like that with no codes.
@@CarShopTalk just PCM
@@michaelspatz3455 Get all codes pulled from all the modules. I would guess you’re going to have a code in a battery control module or something else that will point you in the direction of the problem. An IDS is probably the best for that, but Forscan is a close second. If it’s forscan make sure it’s an obd adapter capable of talking to multiple networks like an obdlink MX+ Bluetooth or equivalent. I use forscan light on an iPhone with the before mentioned adapter for preliminary diagnosis most of the time and it still shocks me all the capabilities it has. Sometime in the future I’m probably going to do a video on this subject, but get the codes from all the modules and I think you’ll find your problem.
Thanks 👌
Did you happen to film the procedure for replacing the pump?
I didn’t, sorry.
SOMEONE PLEASE HELP!
I drive a 2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid!
112,000 miles! I bought it off Copart & fixed it up! It was going good for a month then I was driving on the highway a week ago and the car shut off & a red triangle came up saying stop safely now! Also the check engine light came on solid. So I pulled over & turned the car off. Then when I turn the car back on everything is gone except for an exclamation point light that has always been there. Also it was saying change TPSM so I did and that went away. Now it says Tire pressure low but when I go to put air in my tires they are already above 32! Anyway so the stop safely now and check engine light keeps popping up and the car shuts off then when I re start the car I am able to drive like normal again until it randomly pops up again! Please help! I’ve tried looking online but I can’t find nothing specific!
You need to see if any codes are present.
Did you get a full vehicle history to check the carfax and vehicle check history to make sure it was never in any accidents, had repair orders/work on it or any recalls?
TPSM is your tire pressure system management, there are sensors located in the rims/wheels of the tires on the outer edges. They’re there to notify of running a flat tire or if air is low or escaping.
As far as your car having a warning symbol and light on the dash saying there’s check engine light and light to stop safely now, there’s definitely a problem with your transmission and engine. It might be something like catching right like the clutch or slip differential. Do you fix cars yourself?
Change the the pump and be sure to put the right amount of antifreeze in the hybrid antifreeze bottle that's located at the back of engine. I have a 2010 Fusion Hybrid and experienced the exact same thing. I bought pump from Ford for about $60 two years ago. Take the path of least resistance first. Installation is simple and won't take a hour or less. Very important to ad proper amount of antifreeze in Hybrid bottle. Check levels and recheck as the antifreeze has to circulate through the system to reach proper levels.
My 2010 Fusion Hybrid did not pull any codes and I have a couple of scanners. I'm just a "Shady Tree Mechanic".
@@donfenderson Is it difficult to replace this pump on my own? I am not a mechanic but if it only requires a simple swap out with a couple bolts, is it easy for a novice?