To anybody reading this, please do not ever splice that way...that solder job is a hack and could start a vehicle fire. There are much better ways to prevent voltage drop. 14 gauge is good for up to 10ft at 10 amps. These draw like 6.5? Just run the wires all the way back to the light controller. All 6 together will not exceed 40 amps. If you run everything back and splice within 1 foot of the power/relay/controller, you won't even need larger wire due to the incredibly short run (very little voltage drop/heat build up). Also, please use a solder sleeve (best) or crimp butt (good) for your splices, and splice 2 or 3 max into 1, and do than twice. Then if those 2 wires don’t fit into your connector/power distribution system, then splice again into a single wire if needed. 6 into 1 is a horrible idea, and if your solder connection is not good enough you can get hot spots due to the current which can and have started vehicle fires in the past. Cool video, educate yourself on how to build harnesses!
Awesome video when you wired it to your switch panel did you put it on a 30 amp fuse, I’m doing the same thing but not sure what fuse to run the lights on I’m running 4 together and 2 separate just like you did. If you or anyone could let me know I would appreciate it
Thanks for this... I'm getting ready to set up my own wiring harness and this was really helpful! Those 6 LP6' look sweet and really light up the road.
Awesome, I'm glad to hear it was helpful! And much appreciated about the LP6s! I thought it might be slightly overkill but looking back, I dont regret it at all and definitely happy I used LP6s for my pod lightbar!
Thanks for the video. I came to the same conclusion on how to wire up my lights on two different switches. 3 middle lights on one switch and 2 on each outside on another switch due to the 30 amp max per channel on my garmin power switch. Thanks for helping me confirm this was the right approach!
They are. The outside ones are a driving combo light so it spills off to the sides a little more. The four in the center are a spot beam so it throws the light further. Definitely a nice combo to have!
I think with all that light you ended up ripening all them citrus fruits on those trees! Jeepers! Who needs to worry about frost bite damage when they got you around! ✌🏽
I wouldn't put the two dispersed lenses above on the roof because of light splash onto the hood. They are better suited for the front corners of the bumpers to cover zone 2. If you have the SwitchPros RCR12, you can connect the lights to 2 different circuits and control with a single switch if you wish. It's all configurable in the app.
I was a little hesitant about that happening but thankfully, it's not bad at all. I've done a lot of night driving over the past 9 months and I haven't had any issues. I'm sure it might be different if the pods were clear light instead of the amber.
Did you end up removing the fairing to get the lights to come lower? Kind of want to do this same exact thing but I also want them to be as low profile as possible just like you were mentioning.
I didn't end up removing the windscreen. I had played around with it but IMO it didnt really look that great and on top of that, there was still a decent gap under that I'm sure would have made a lot of wind noise.
Never wear gloves around and rotating tool except a dremel. It can grab the glove and pull you into the machine. I have a 1 handed uncle who did it on a drill press. Ended up pulling his hand into the bit and it drilled a 1/2" hole through his wrist, they had to amputate because the shavings and fluid were drawn into his wound and it became gangrenous. They cut about 10in from his elbow.
Hey Robert! Thanks for the comment! The difference between the two outside LP6s vs the four in the middle is that the four in the middle are spot and the two outside pods are the driving combo. I wanted to have a nice even spread on the sides so used the driving combo lenses for that while the four spots in the middle really throw the light out into the distance. As for the ambers being mounted low vs high. I've seen a few different opinions on that and even though I know Baja says they put amber low and clear high, I actually like the opposite. Since my headlights are clear, it made sense to make the bumper lightbar (not currently installed for this video) clear and keep the ambers on the roof. There is little to no spill on the hood where I have heard that clear does reflect a lot more off hoods. Obviously, a hood wrap or vinyl wrap will help deflect the reflection but for my liking, Ive enjoyed having the amber up high. I may make a video where I swap amber for clear and clear for amber just for experiment purposes but for now, I'll be keeping it as it is. Thanks for the comment! Have a great day!
I would of used solid deutche terminals and any time you have connection points I would of staggered them so there is never any contact if the heat shrink were to ever fail. I had this happen to me 25 years ago on my race bike... but great video
I don't believe so unfortunately. Not on any LED light at least since the lights need to have an additional light inside the housing to create the backlit "look". Baja Designs has backlit functions in there LP series and S8 series lights and I know other companies also have offroad lights with back lights built in.
Good job but to let you know you need an inline fuse for the 14 wire spliced to the #10 it will go between the 2 sizes to protect the 14 wire so they do not melt and catch on fire have fun and enjoy
Awesome video, I would like to add that you need specific type of crimpers for these deutsch connectors. They are fairly cheap on amazon and range from 15 dollars and up. How did the dimming function work out for you on the switchpros? I have the upfitter harness right now waiting to be installed so that I can run all the functions, but still debating if I want to lose a spot on the switch pros for a low beam.
Thanks for the comment! No, I haven't given up although I have been away from the channel way too long! Unfortunately work has been pretty hectic lately and I haven't had much time to edit more TH-cam videos. I have a bunch of content shot and I'm hoping I'll be finding some time soon to start posting again! The truck has seen some pretty big changes lately!
Hey man, I purchased 7x knockoff lp9s to mount. I have everything ready but I'm questioning whether the stock Prinsu crossmember would support the weight with the four quarter inch bolts. Have you noticed anything sketchy with your crossmember since you've mounted these? Or has it been pretty solid?
Hey man! So sorry I'm just now seeing this! For some reason youtube stopped notifying me of new comments! Good thing you reached out on Instagram! Your lightbar is looking sick!
Um hate to tell you this but BD engineers are smart so the they designed the brackets to work out at all angeles you just needed to reverse the bracket to achieve that angle you where looking for.
Yeah, it was pretty pricey but still worth it in my opinion. I actually changed my ditch lights to be chase lights because the spread pattern on the two outside LP6's were so bright that they overpowered the ditch lights.
Yeah, I might have broken a few OSHA rules doing that. But those metal shavings are a pain to get out of your skin so I took the chance. Out of curiosity, what would you have done in this situation to avoid metal spurs digging into your skin but also to not risk catching any glove in the machinery?
Are you afraid of the dark bro?
Hahahaha not anymore!!
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
To anybody reading this, please do not ever splice that way...that solder job is a hack and could start a vehicle fire. There are much better ways to prevent voltage drop. 14 gauge is good for up to 10ft at 10 amps. These draw like 6.5? Just run the wires all the way back to the light controller. All 6 together will not exceed 40 amps. If you run everything back and splice within 1 foot of the power/relay/controller, you won't even need larger wire due to the incredibly short run (very little voltage drop/heat build up). Also, please use a solder sleeve (best) or crimp butt (good) for your splices, and splice 2 or 3 max into 1, and do than twice. Then if those 2 wires don’t fit into your connector/power distribution system, then splice again into a single wire if needed. 6 into 1 is a horrible idea, and if your solder connection is not good enough you can get hot spots due to the current which can and have started vehicle fires in the past. Cool video, educate yourself on how to build harnesses!
Awesome video when you wired it to your switch panel did you put it on a 30 amp fuse, I’m doing the same thing but not sure what fuse to run the lights on I’m running 4 together and 2 separate just like you did. If you or anyone could let me know I would appreciate it
Thanks for this... I'm getting ready to set up my own wiring harness and this was really helpful! Those 6 LP6' look sweet and really light up the road.
Awesome, I'm glad to hear it was helpful! And much appreciated about the LP6s! I thought it might be slightly overkill but looking back, I dont regret it at all and definitely happy I used LP6s for my pod lightbar!
Thanks for the video. I came to the same conclusion on how to wire up my lights on two different switches. 3 middle lights on one switch and 2 on each outside on another switch due to the 30 amp max per channel on my garmin power switch. Thanks for helping me confirm this was the right approach!
Awesome! Glad my video helped you out!
Are the outside ones different beam pattern then the middle ones?
They are. The outside ones are a driving combo light so it spills off to the sides a little more. The four in the center are a spot beam so it throws the light further. Definitely a nice combo to have!
I think with all that light you ended up ripening all them citrus fruits on those trees! Jeepers! Who needs to worry about frost bite damage when they got you around! ✌🏽
lol!!😂😂😂🙌🙌🙌
@@HorizonBound ✌🏽
I wouldn't put the two dispersed lenses above on the roof because of light splash onto the hood. They are better suited for the front corners of the bumpers to cover zone 2. If you have the SwitchPros RCR12, you can connect the lights to 2 different circuits and control with a single switch if you wish. It's all configurable in the app.
I was a little hesitant about that happening but thankfully, it's not bad at all. I've done a lot of night driving over the past 9 months and I haven't had any issues. I'm sure it might be different if the pods were clear light instead of the amber.
@@HorizonBound thanks, that's good to know.
Did you end up removing the fairing to get the lights to come lower? Kind of want to do this same exact thing but I also want them to be as low profile as possible just like you were mentioning.
I didn't end up removing the windscreen. I had played around with it but IMO it didnt really look that great and on top of that, there was still a decent gap under that I'm sure would have made a lot of wind noise.
Never wear gloves around and rotating tool except a dremel. It can grab the glove and pull you into the machine. I have a 1 handed uncle who did it on a drill press. Ended up pulling his hand into the bit and it drilled a 1/2" hole through his wrist, they had to amputate because the shavings and fluid were drawn into his wound and it became gangrenous. They cut about 10in from his elbow.
none of theses subs should be operating power tools
I’m thinking of using the evil industries to mount 7 LP6 lights like this. Do you still love it? How loud is the wind noise at highway speeds?
Are the side ones special lp6s? The 2 side lights offer great light.
FYI shouldn’t amber lights be mounted low?
Hey Robert! Thanks for the comment! The difference between the two outside LP6s vs the four in the middle is that the four in the middle are spot and the two outside pods are the driving combo. I wanted to have a nice even spread on the sides so used the driving combo lenses for that while the four spots in the middle really throw the light out into the distance.
As for the ambers being mounted low vs high. I've seen a few different opinions on that and even though I know Baja says they put amber low and clear high, I actually like the opposite. Since my headlights are clear, it made sense to make the bumper lightbar (not currently installed for this video) clear and keep the ambers on the roof. There is little to no spill on the hood where I have heard that clear does reflect a lot more off hoods. Obviously, a hood wrap or vinyl wrap will help deflect the reflection but for my liking, Ive enjoyed having the amber up high. I may make a video where I swap amber for clear and clear for amber just for experiment purposes but for now, I'll be keeping it as it is.
Thanks for the comment! Have a great day!
Really, really helpful video. Would you mind posting a list or links to the wiring supplies and tools you used? Thanks!
Sorry for the delay! I updated the description to include links of everything! Hope that helps!
I would of used solid deutche terminals and any time you have connection points I would of staggered them so there is never any contact if the heat shrink were to ever fail. I had this happen to me 25 years ago on my race bike... but great video
is it possible to do the backlit mode on any led lights? if so how? it looks dope, i want to put on my truck
I don't believe so unfortunately. Not on any LED light at least since the lights need to have an additional light inside the housing to create the backlit "look". Baja Designs has backlit functions in there LP series and S8 series lights and I know other companies also have offroad lights with back lights built in.
It has to be a light that has backlight. It’s built into specific lights.
Good job but to let you know you need an inline fuse for the 14 wire spliced to the #10 it will go between the 2 sizes to protect the 14 wire so they do not melt and catch on fire have fun and enjoy
Yes. This is true.
Awesome video, I would like to add that you need specific type of crimpers for these deutsch connectors. They are fairly cheap on amazon and range from 15 dollars and up. How did the dimming function work out for you on the switchpros? I have the upfitter harness right now waiting to be installed so that I can run all the functions, but still debating if I want to lose a spot on the switch pros for a low beam.
Dude doesn't care about anybodies questions. He's obviously a loser.
Great DIY video!
Thanks! I appreciate the comment!
If only I had 2900 dollars for lights lmao
By chance, is this the road leading to Nate Harrison Grade? It looks oddly familiar.
how wud be a lp9 pro light bar illuminate tho?
You had me at merica
good video dude
Much appreciated! Glad you enjoyed it!
kinda like just the outside lights on.
Agreed. I usually drive with just the outside lp6s on when I'm behind someone but when I'm alone or leading the trail ride, I'll have them all on.
Would be 7 Baja Desings LP6 or LP9 on your roofrack?
you cold soldered those joints which is not the best for conductivity.
Was he just dripping solder on the joint?
You crazy bro, you should also put them on left right and back
Hahahaha don't tempt me! lol!
Did you give up on the channel? I saw on Instagram that you have had this on the trail but no new videos or posts. I hope all is well.
Thanks for the comment! No, I haven't given up although I have been away from the channel way too long! Unfortunately work has been pretty hectic lately and I haven't had much time to edit more TH-cam videos. I have a bunch of content shot and I'm hoping I'll be finding some time soon to start posting again! The truck has seen some pretty big changes lately!
Hey man, I purchased 7x knockoff lp9s to mount. I have everything ready but I'm questioning whether the stock Prinsu crossmember would support the weight with the four quarter inch bolts. Have you noticed anything sketchy with your crossmember since you've mounted these? Or has it been pretty solid?
Hey man! So sorry I'm just now seeing this! For some reason youtube stopped notifying me of new comments! Good thing you reached out on Instagram! Your lightbar is looking sick!
Dang those do look good tho. Nice!
Thank you sir! Much appreciated!
Um hate to tell you this but BD engineers are smart so the they designed the brackets to work out at all angeles you just needed to reverse the bracket to achieve that angle you where looking for.
Lol believe me, I did. It didn't work. The lights were pointed upwards that way
the wifey making a cameo at 11:14 was a good laugh 😂
Hahahaha you saw here 2 seconds of fame 😂
A die grinder would have been the tool to use for the brackets fyi. Much simpler. Great job though
Appreciate it! I'll definitely have to use that next time I do something like this again.
That is an extremely expensive light bar.
Yeah, it was pretty pricey but still worth it in my opinion. I actually changed my ditch lights to be chase lights because the spread pattern on the two outside LP6's were so bright that they overpowered the ditch lights.
Never wear gloves when working with a drill press.
Yeah, I might have broken a few OSHA rules doing that. But those metal shavings are a pain to get out of your skin so I took the chance. Out of curiosity, what would you have done in this situation to avoid metal spurs digging into your skin but also to not risk catching any glove in the machinery?
now he needs a 450 amp alt. just to show his girl his headlights in the parking lot
She was pretty impressed. We almost didn't see that curb we later flexed on.
@@HorizonBound Dude... best response ever....
America FK YA!!! best response ever.
Shit!! My eyes broooo!!