Thank you Alex. My first ventures into Pyro were having studied Gordon Hutchings Book of Pyro, and all about PMK. I loved the results, if it weren't for everything that can go wrong, which did fir me. I am meticulous in handling developers. Noteable was Hutchings recommending dunking the fixed film back onto the used developer, for maximising the stain. I have not read of anyone else doing this. I'd really love some feedback on this one. I am grateful for your careful comparison of the Pyro options. Thank you. 🤝 (Subscribed)
loved this video from start to finish - I find pyro developers so interesting and really great to learn about the history! definitely going to keep going with the 510 pyro, love that its one step, though I do like Obsidian Aqua results too, but 1 step and faster times suits my impatience haha thanks for this Alex! Going in my bookmarks :)
Enjoyed the video, Alex! Love pyro developers. Not sure about the availability in North America, but for those based in the EU, I can't recommend the Moersch line of pyro devs enough - Tanol, Tanol Speed, Finol, Pyro 48, all solid stuff 👍
Thanks! Yes there is a whole rabbit hole of Pyro developers out there. I've never heard of any of those that you've mentions but will keep an eye out here in North America! Thanks for watching!
How funny - I just got some 510..including the Alkali fixer from Zone Imaging. when I received the parcel there was a note from Australian customs to tell me that they opened the package to make sure that the contents were not illegal drugs....
I'm someone returning to film development after years of shooting digital. I'm not shooting a lot of film so my biggest push toward 510 Pyro is it's long shelf life and fine grain capability. I'm shooting mainly 120 film with occasional 35mm either FP4 or Delta 100. I haven tried any of the Pyro developers yet so I appreciate your informative video on the differences! My only real concern is disposal of used chems. I'm on septic.
You’re welcome and thank you for the kind words. As for disposal, especially on septics, might be best to have a separate containers for used chemicals then take them to a local hazardous waste disposal unit. These are located usually at municipal/county dumps. Thanks for watching 🍻
That might kill the plan, I don't think there is an on going program to take liquid waste in my area. I may have to stick with Ilfosal 3. I was hoping for something with longer shelf life but still capable of fine grain.@@AlexLuyckxPhoto
@@AlexLuyckxPhoto As I feared, my local municipality in Northern California said they don't take any chemicals that are not household chemicals! I was specifically told no photo chemicals.
Great overview of the evolution of pyro developers. It was good that you raised the toxicity risks of all pyro developers that need to be handled with great care. I agree Pyrocat HD is a good first choice for someone wanting to move beyond canned developers like D76. I personally use Pyrocat HD to develop sheet film in a Jobo Expert drum. Big negatives from Kodak or Ilford work well including Tri-X, FP4 and HP5. For tank development of roll film PMK is also a good choice or the newer Pyro 510.
Thanks for a really informative video. When developing 35mm and 120 films in smaller amounts of diluted developer, what is the minimum amount of developer that needs to be used. I usually use Rodinal, and I take care to always use at least 10ml of developer in my dilutions. Do I have to keep the same precaution in mind when using, for example, 510 Pyro?
In all my reading there is no minimum amount for 510-Pyro. I’ve used a total solution of 500mL in a 1+300 (2mL of concentrate) without trouble! Thanks for watching 🍻
When one mixes Part A and Part B together with water to produce a working solution, that is _NOT_ a 2-bath developer. You have confused the terminology. What you are describing is a 2 _PART_ developer. There are developers used in 2 different stages…. Develop for a while with one, pour it out, pour in part 2 and develop for a while. Example: Diagine.
Yes! That was a mix up on my part, I went back and saw that I had parts written in the script but got confused because it was my son’s bath night and that popped into my head! Thank you for pointing that out and watching 🍻
Hello Alex, great review! For the fixer, which one do you recommend? I am in Canada, can you let me know what is a good place to order the 510-pyro and the fixer from? Thanks!
I have heard of pyro as a developer but not tried it yet. I don't know if i can get it here in Sweden or if i have to use for example macodirect online store.
Thanks for the video! Perfect timing for me as I’m just about to try 510 Pyro for the first time. My main reservations, as a chemist, are the chemical and environmental hazards when compared with the likes of Xtol, FX-55 and E76 that I’ve been using recently.
@@AlexLuyckxPhoto how is that? I read about 510 pyro /Pyrogallol for a while now, never used it before. But i´m still uncertain how dangerous they really are. In the 510 pyro manual it is stated, that it oxidizes fast and can be disposed in the drain water. Are nitril gloves and eye protection really enough? Do i have to clean potentially contaminated surfaces? What about ventilation? Is a carbon filter a sufficient for Pyrogallol?
Thank you Alex. My first ventures into Pyro were having studied Gordon Hutchings Book of Pyro, and all about PMK. I loved the results, if it weren't for everything that can go wrong, which did fir me. I am meticulous in handling developers. Noteable was Hutchings recommending dunking the fixed film back onto the used developer, for maximising the stain. I have not read of anyone else doing this. I'd really love some feedback on this one.
I am grateful for your careful comparison of the Pyro options.
Thank you. 🤝
(Subscribed)
Yes! I remember doing that with PMK! Weirded me out big time! Thanks for watching and the kind words 🍻
Hi Kevin, Hutchings then retracted that advice afterwards realising that it just gave general stain
loved this video from start to finish - I find pyro developers so interesting and really great to learn about the history! definitely going to keep going with the 510 pyro, love that its one step, though I do like Obsidian Aqua results too, but 1 step and faster times suits my impatience haha thanks for this Alex! Going in my bookmarks :)
Obsidian Aqua is a developer I have yet to try but hope to in the future! Thank you for the kind words and for watching 🍻
Enjoyed the video, Alex! Love pyro developers. Not sure about the availability in North America, but for those based in the EU, I can't recommend the Moersch line of pyro devs enough - Tanol, Tanol Speed, Finol, Pyro 48, all solid stuff 👍
Thanks! Yes there is a whole rabbit hole of Pyro developers out there. I've never heard of any of those that you've mentions but will keep an eye out here in North America! Thanks for watching!
How funny - I just got some 510..including the Alkali fixer from Zone Imaging. when I received the parcel there was a note from Australian customs to tell me that they opened the package to make sure that the contents were not illegal drugs....
Nice! Enjoy the pyro! Yeah I had a package of processed film opened by Canadian border security once also! Thanks for watching 🍻
@@AlexLuyckxPhoto keep up the good work
FWIW, I've not seen a reduction in stain in ilford rapid fix vs ZI ecofix (though I do prefer ecofix generally anyway).
Good to know! I’ve seen the same with Kodak Rapidfix. Thanks for watching 🍻
I'm someone returning to film development after years of shooting digital. I'm not shooting a lot of film so my biggest push toward 510 Pyro is it's long shelf life and fine grain capability. I'm shooting mainly 120 film with occasional 35mm either FP4 or Delta 100. I haven tried any of the Pyro developers yet so I appreciate your informative video on the differences! My only real concern is disposal of used chems. I'm on septic.
You’re welcome and thank you for the kind words. As for disposal, especially on septics, might be best to have a separate containers for used chemicals then take them to a local hazardous waste disposal unit. These are located usually at municipal/county dumps. Thanks for watching 🍻
That might kill the plan, I don't think there is an on going program to take liquid waste in my area. I may have to stick with Ilfosal 3. I was hoping for something with longer shelf life but still capable of fine grain.@@AlexLuyckxPhoto
@@AlexLuyckxPhoto As I feared, my local municipality in Northern California said they don't take any chemicals that are not household chemicals! I was specifically told no photo chemicals.
@@tgchism 😢 maybe try and find a local lab that will take the chemistry off your hands or let you know where they dispose of them.
Love my pyro developers ❤
They’re pretty awesome! Thanks for watching 🍻
Great overview of the evolution of pyro developers.
It was good that you raised the toxicity risks of all pyro developers that need to be handled with great care.
I agree Pyrocat HD is a good first choice for someone wanting to move beyond canned developers like D76.
I personally use Pyrocat HD to develop sheet film in a Jobo Expert drum.
Big negatives from Kodak or Ilford work well including Tri-X, FP4 and HP5.
For tank development of roll film PMK is also a good choice or the newer Pyro 510.
I’m loving what I get with 510! I need to try it with some sheet film soon! Thanks for the kind words and for watching 🍻
Thanks for a really informative video. When developing 35mm and 120 films in smaller amounts of diluted developer, what is the minimum amount of developer that needs to be used. I usually use Rodinal, and I take care to always use at least 10ml of developer in my dilutions. Do I have to keep the same precaution in mind when using, for example, 510 Pyro?
In all my reading there is no minimum amount for 510-Pyro. I’ve used a total solution of 500mL in a 1+300 (2mL of concentrate) without trouble! Thanks for watching 🍻
When one mixes Part A and Part B together with water to produce a working solution, that is _NOT_ a 2-bath developer. You have confused the terminology. What you are describing is a 2 _PART_ developer.
There are developers used in 2 different stages…. Develop for a while with one, pour it out, pour in part 2 and develop for a while. Example: Diagine.
Yes! That was a mix up on my part, I went back and saw that I had parts written in the script but got confused because it was my son’s bath night and that popped into my head! Thank you for pointing that out and watching 🍻
I think pyro developers from moersch worth a try, tanol, finol, tanol speed, and pyro 48.
And, Bellili put BF200 in the market now.
Nice! Those are harder to get in North America bit will keep an eye out!
@@AlexLuyckxPhoto Bellini BF 200 is available in North America
@@zhijiawang9007 Excellent! I will add that to my wish list!
Hello Alex, great review! For the fixer, which one do you recommend? I am in Canada, can you let me know what is a good place to order the 510-pyro and the fixer from?
Thanks!
Thank you! Best place is directly from Zone Imaging, fair shipping prices and speedy delivery. Thanks for watching 🍻
I have heard of pyro as a developer but not tried it yet.
I don't know if i can get it here in Sweden or if i have to use for example macodirect online store.
Order from Zone Imaging in the UK, 510-pyro! You won’t regret it! Thanks for watching 🍻
Thanks for the video! Perfect timing for me as I’m just about to try 510 Pyro for the first time. My main reservations, as a chemist, are the chemical and environmental hazards when compared with the likes of Xtol, FX-55 and E76 that I’ve been using recently.
Cheers! While there is some concerns with 510 it certainly isn’t as harmful as other Pyro developers! 🍻
@@AlexLuyckxPhoto how is that? I read about 510 pyro /Pyrogallol for a while now, never used it before. But i´m still uncertain how dangerous they really are. In the 510 pyro manual it is stated, that it oxidizes fast and can be disposed in the drain water. Are nitril gloves and eye protection really enough? Do i have to clean potentially contaminated surfaces? What about ventilation? Is a carbon filter a sufficient for Pyrogallol?
@@Raumweiter All I can say is take the precautions you feel are needed for your own comfort. If you want more, go for it.