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Excellent video 😊!

Nice! I enjoy seeing your photos, its a good way of seeing outside of my usual things i like to shoot.

Where can we get the adox chemistry in Toronto? I have an adox film stock (ISO 25, I think) on my fridge for two or three years now and never shoot it because of the chemistry which at this time has eluded me.

IME - a terrible film, at least in 35mm. Incredibly (and I mean incredibly) grainy both in D76 1+1 and in HC110 1+47. Also a 50 EI film in my workflow. I can get the same grain, and tonality with Kentmere 400, which is a 320 EI film in my chain. Kentmere 100, Foma 100 are much finer grain 100 ISO films than the Adox. I love Adox' commitment to film photography, but unless the 120 CHS II is really different from the 35mm, I have to say buyer beware. I personally won't be buying any.

The original Adox films were my late Dad’s favourites in the 1960’s and he always developed in Beutler formula, as a single bath, which is easy to make at home. It gives good sharpness and tonal range.

Can't keep up with Adox. The CMS20II has gone, but the CHSII has returned. Marvelous.

I loved Efke 100 and 50. Souping it in Rodinal in medium format 1:65 gave amazing tones. The extended green sensitivity makes it excellent for woodlands and portraiture. When Adox CHS II is back in stock, I'll certainly pick some up.

I haven't shot any CHS 100 II, yet, but I have a good stash of EFKE 25 (35mm) in the freezer that I bought from a dealer in Croatia shortly after the plant shutdown. Put this emulsion behind some Leica glass and develop it in Pyrocat-HD and you'll gain a new appreciation for what that tiny negative can deliver!

I think the reason for water stop bath, and alkaline fixer with 510 pyro is to prevent the stain from washing out. The stain helps to retain highlight detail.

Thanks for this. I'll try to find a supplier in the UK and test it in 510Pyro. Or maybe a simple 2 Bath might pair with this emulsion? We'll see. All the best from South Wales - UK.

Great review! Thanks. I have a Maxxum a7 with the VC-7 grip. Outstanding rig. Maybe my favorite camera. Also have a good 'ol 400si which I find really fun to shoot with. Cheers!

i ike your presentation!

Been seeing alot about this stock. Seems really interesting. Really beautiful frames you threw up on this one. Did you use a red filter on that capital building shot? BTW, please don't call the cops about that joint in my new film photography video, I promise it was all special effects. Subbed!

Love NYC, Love Super 8. Win Win - good stuff man

I have the chance to buy one right now in mint condition with working meter. Is it worth it? I don’t want to shoot with it and it will break down

Takes you back to an era...

I agree with your opinion of this film. I liked the Kodachrome like punchy colors, even if very contrasty, in this negative film. If the grain could be minimized, it would be a lovely film in its own right. This film has artistic merits and make images look very stylized without the need for filters in post. I bought more rolls to test, in case they stop producing it. Hope they don't.

I had a pretty good experience with Phoenix 200 shooting it at 125 and scanning it with my Epson V550 - Definitely looking forward to seeing what Harman cooks up next.

I use old 70s Nikons when I want fully mechanical cameras, and late Minolta cameras for quick shooting with film (since that was what I started with). Now I really want this one :)

I feel like i didn't do my first roll of phoenix justice. I shot it on a snowwy day, and that was probably the worst situation for it. I'm going to try a rainy day for my next roll, and hopefully that's less contrasty, and turns out nicer.

Excellent video Alex. Your results are so much better than mine with Phoenix -- and I think that a lot of that is your scanning. I sent mine to The Darkroom -- who are a 'certified' place to develop/handle Phoenix -- and I even added a note to my order for them to please adjust their scanner for this specific film -- but with the scans the colors were very oversaturated and out of control and the contrast was a lot more than I think that it should have been (even for this film). I did shoot it in bright sunlight with shadows, so that accentuated the contrast. And then some shots in the shade under trees -- and even with properly metering it at 200, those shots were a muddy mess. So I was not in any rush to shoot my second roll -- but you have given me hope!!! If I can find a place to scan it properly (or get my butt in gear and finish setting up to scan with my M43 mirrorless camera!). Thank you! You have an excellent looking recording set up behind you!

Mine are still waiting to be shot, I have six rolls of it in my fridge at home.

To me Harman Phoenix 200 is a good first step to see how market reacts to a new colour film. While the first version it not a film I am interested in shooting, enough of my friends invested in the film so that I can try out version 2 in the future with its hopefully improved dynamic range, look and grain! On a side note mentioning Fuji as a colour film developer makes no sense as the only thing I hear nowadays from them is discontinued stocks and telling kodak to make their c41 film and Fuji slapping their logo on it!

I was also not particularly impressed with the initial results I saw on SM so I bought one roll to check it out myself. I will use it later this week in my Nikon FE when I walk around downtown Nanaimo, BC. I plan to have it developed by a lab and then take your lead and scan it at home on my D850/SilverFast 9. We will see!

I'm most of the way through my first roll of Harman Phoenix 200 and am looking forward to seeing the results.

I shoot Canon and have for years. I already own a 5D mk IV DSLR and an EOS 3 film body. I have just picked up an old EOS 500N (UK name) for £20 on eBay plus a 28-80 version 3 for £30. I think I got a good buy and now have 3 bodies that can share my already small collection of EF lenses (some of which are L lenses).

Mine came in the post today, used from ebay 10 usd. Read a couple reviews saying how small it is and yes it is tiny. In my hands without even a roll in it I cab tell this is going to be a lot of fun

Have the N60 and N75 plus some MF Nikons (F3 and EL2). Really enjoy the AF rigs. Easy to use. Great pictures. Thanks for your review.

I’ve never tried stand development - Great instructions!

I just bought this camera at a yard sale, and it has the battery,but its dead. Is there a charger that came with it?

This great camera

Soon expired slide film will be the only way to shoot slides, if you look at what Fuji is doing. I'm mostly a b/w shooter, which seems to be a quite healthy market. I only buy fresh b/w (unless the expired stuff is practically free), since it's easily available and I want to support the companies that make it. For color, I'd much rather shoot slides than color negative, but it's currently amazingly expensive if available at all. I have ventured to expired slides, but the results can be anything. For example: Early 2000's Agfa Precisa CT and Agfa RSX from a local photography store's fridge = every roll is a different color. Yet a mid-90's expired Ektachrome Pro Plus with a ripped foil from some guy's basement was nearly perfect, only the slightest magenta cast in the shadows. So my experience if buying expired: buy cold stored, buy a lot from the same source, buy cheap (less than 2€/roll for me) and still be ready to lose all that money. p.s. I have read your website many times but didn't know you had a youtube channel. I especially enjoy how you compare different film developers on black and white film reviews. Sometimes on reviews of films people don't tell anything about the development, like it makes no difference to the results.

Nice! You used my good friend d76 :) For unknown old rolls I use d76 stock 9-11 minutes, has worked great so far!

Very useful info on developing, thank you! If you'd compare stand dev in Rodinal vs Pyro, what would you choose? Are both methods will produce same results in terms of grain? I only did stand dev in Rodinal so far with pretty grainy results. But I might be getting more grain because of challenging light conditions I shot the film in, so not sure whether Rodinal produces more grain 😅

One method you didn’t mention is one that I learned about via the All Through a Lens podcast. They claimed that Ansel Adams had a combination he used for unknown films, HC-110 at 1:90 for 18 minutes, agitated every three minutes. I’ve been using that a lot for stuff like Dupont 936B (expired sometime in the 1960s), Imperiale Type S (expired 1977), Ansco Supreme (expired 1958), and Eastman 5302 (expired 2002), among others, with excellent results. The histograms when I scan tell the tale; I get perfect exposures with this method. For films with fog, cold stand development is another option. I have some Svema KN-1 that the source I bought it from recommended HC-110 1:75 at refrigerator temperature (roughly 38F/4C), agitated for 1 minute and left to stand in the fridge for 29 minutes. Again, that worked perfectly. Probably the oddest approach was something I did for a few rolls of Eastman No. 10, a cinema film that expired in 1931. Shot at EI 0.3, I did a clip test on a short piece of the first roll in HC-110 1:10 (yes, that’s not a typo) and found that 9 minutes at refrigerator temperatures gave me perfect exposures and, most surprisingly, no fog. I detailed the process in a blog post at www.thereisnocat.com/showme1004.html . HC-110, even without benzotriazole, is the best developer I’ve found for dealing with fog, especially cold.

I found this very entertaining, thanks Alex! So much fun developing your own film! The results you've gotten out of this roll of F21 are very cool.

ISO 40?!? You know my obsession with the 40mm focal length, I should get some of that to use!

Eeeeyyyy, the code! (Ala Pirates of the Caribbean)

I especially appreciated your instructions regarding stand development. For me it was the clearest presentation that I have seen. I will be trying it soon.

I haven't actually developed my own film yet...that being said...your video was quite informative and interesting!

Have you ever tried HC-110 + Rodinal combination for 45 minutes ?

Thanks a lot Alex! Informative as usual, much appreciated!

Very good video. I just developed my b/w roll today, and got results. I used Ilfoso l 3 and my Jobo 2400 tank, no dark bag or room required.

The increased saturation reminds me of Agfa Color film from the mid-‘80s.

Fantastic overview Alex! Much to my surprise, I had amazing results with 10-15 year old Fuji Industrial and Made in Italy Agfa Vista 100 recently. Living in a subtropical city, I was shocked they turned out so well.

Hello, luckily I had an opportunity having a one. And I loved it. For me it is the most convenient mechanical Nikon. It came with pre AI 50/2 and at the same time, from the seller I added the AI 24/2,8 lens. Then I bought E series Nikon 75-150/3,5. Well with this lens I have to adjust the needle manually, according to the selected diaphram. Perhaps after I mount then setting the process. Now I have two recently bought lenses. One AI 28/2,8 and the latest one is AI 35/2. Thank you for the review and the video.

Fun video...nice work!

Nice! :)