@@MakersMuse Make some hi-res Anime Noodle Toppers (they sit on a cup of instant ramen to hold the top down while it rests after microwaving) and give the g-code out for free and you will break the internet, resin printers will go out of stock across the world, doubling of your subs overnight. Then Twitter will cancel you. /s
This is the first of these printer videos I've seen that didn't bore me in seconds and was easy to follow and understand. With a comprehensive review with no bullshit. Thanks mate. I appreciate it.
use a hairdryer on the supports it will heat them up and make them flex and easy to remove from models leaving no puck marks. i also use the hairdryer to warm up the resin before a print. :) hope this helps with your cleanups.
Resins back on the menu boys! Nicely done and I was just thinking I need to break out my space heater for my resin print room as that temp challenge is a very very real thing.
I spent ages looking up different mini heaters. Everything from reptile tank heater mats to space heaters. In the end I went for a normal space heater with a temperature gadget sitting next to the printers. I don't even start a print until I see its toasty in my shed and that has seriously reduced my fails by an order of magnitude. I'd love a more automated setup with temperature control but this is an expensive hobby and I'm fighting my battles as money allows haha.
@@UncleJessy living in L.A. it was never an issue in the garage. I moved to Albuquerque and in the winter it did get close to freezing weather. Lots of failed prints. I have photo mono x. Is it OK to have inside the house?
@@MakersMuse Inkbird do a nice 240 volt thermostat that controls heating and cooling. I built a cabinet with a 300watt 240v PTC heater fan combo and a PC fan to exhaust the cabinet if it gets hot. Not sure what I will do with cooling when summer is here in melbourne aus.
This isn't only good for models, it's also really really good for prototyping massive amounts of smaller parts for mechanical assemblies that require several small parts. I'd get one just for that, as it leaves the parts far smoother than a regular FFF printer can achieve.
I've said this before, I say this in about every new resin printer video I come across, and I'll continually say it again until there's actual change: Resin printers need to get away from resolutions and use PPI instead. Resolutions don't mean anything without PPI, a 5" display and a 50" display can have the same resolution but their pixel density is wildly different. Beyond this, we should also know pixel aspect ratio, if we're dealing with true squares or not. Further beyond this, we should also know Z axis resolution, as we can combine this with pixel aspect ratios and form a voxel aspect ratio, because even if the pixel aspect ratio is square, Z axis resolution won't always necessarily form a cubic voxel, but rather a rectangular prism with two square faces. Yeah, sure, you can figure out the PPI yourself, but that really shouldn't be necessary, just replace resolution numbers with PPI numbers on the box; this also doesn't fix the lack of information about pixel aspect ratio, Z axis resolution, and voxel aspect ratio. This argument is also entirely valid because any other printer uses DPI numbers, and not some arbitrary resolution of the print carriage axis. It's annoying that we're still using resolution numbers, especially on production and industrial machines, because it's really nothing better than clickbait, as the resolution number itself doesn't provide useful information as per the quality of the prints; and to make this issue worse, some printers don't even directly mention the size of the display, you have to go hunting through different spec sheets just to find what should be relevant information.
@@LlamaCraft Make that argument with the 2D printer market as well. Oh wait, you can't, because the printer market decided to actually advertise proper DPI numbers. Your marketing argument is nothing more than the product equivalent of clickbait, it's not need and absolutely worthless when relevant numbers are concerned. It's also similar to the display industry, though resolution there is actually a marketable number, but a 60" 4k will look a hell of a lot different than a 32" 4k at the same viewing distances. L take anyways, more people within the hobby and industry agree with the original comment, because PPI numbers are actually important when SLA and MSLA are concerned. Clearly you don't actually understand any of what's being talked about.
@@LlamaCraft Its not easier..it it simply the common description but average customer doesnt know the technical requirements - only that the number gets bigger so it must be better... which is why the argument from Peaches stands. If every manufacturer and advertiser switched to a true standard of measure like that...it would simply replace the inaccurate 4k/5k jargon. Which - playing Devils Advocate, is possibly why this switch will never happen..because Sales thrives on vague and generalized definitions so they can make their product pitch to sound like WOW Shock and Awe for could end up being a piece of crap.
Once again an amazing video :) and im so happy to see my model being featured here. The necromonger blade is flawlessly beautifull printed on the Phrozen sonic mega 8k, its just sick :D
I am sure someone has already commented this but to answer your question from 11:35 : The slicer that I know, that can do these support is Lychee and it does a great job of it too.
the quality of some of those prints is incredible a few years ago i would've expected to see that quality only in very high end industrial uses not something a standard civilian can own. absolutely amazing. thanks for sharing Maker's Muse!
It's been done many years ago for that level of microns. For something close, one of my 2010 machines did 20-25 micron resolution at the consumer level. I just wouldn't recommend it for large solid objects since the pressure build up is insane.
Phrozen should include a metal block with pins that directly interface with the holes in the build plate. Pop off the build plate and gently push it down over the pin panel. The resin is flushed and the print is nudged off. Some re-engineering would have to be done. But it would be cool.
When I saw this machine: "Yay! I can print all my 7" figures in one piece!" It runs exclusively on Chitubox: "Well, it was good while it lasted. Hard pass."
@@groundzero_-lm4md Partly personal opinion, partly experience, but chitu recently went full retard and started locking new resin machines exclusively to their boards so you have to use their software. If you prefer, say, Lychee or PrusaSlicer, you're boned out of using those slicers. I used to prefer Chitu back in the early resin days, but Lychee is far and away a more efficient program, even the free version. And it works with a number of odd-ball printer formats, like my zcode printer that the factory software it comes with is absolutely garbage.
Same. I've moved entirely over to Lychee, and at this point can pretty much rely on their auto-supports 99% of the time, and I'm not interested in going back to Chitu.
@@variancehammer246 I'm curious though, couldn't you save a supported STL from lychee and then do the final slice in chitubox? Obviously i'm against it in principal and am going to boycott chitubox locked printers.
Living on the Canadian Prairie, my first reaction was "it's funny that he thinks +14 is cold." My second, stronger reaction was "I should probably never to to Australia in their summer, because *I* think +30 is hot."
Living in Russia Can confirm, +27 and im headed straight to hell Heatwaves got the weather up to +37 this summer, so it's already too hot to live here for me! xD
Hot and cold are relative. I grew up in the Midwest America, so high humidity and temperature in the summer is the norm. In winter, it averages near the freezing point. I’ve since moved to Southern California, and a cool day people complain it’s freezing. If your pipes aren’t in danger of freezing over, it’s not freezing. Cold, maybe. But not freezing.
Great to see an Aussie review, use a Photon Mono myself and after a fair few print fails I to have found that aside from sufficient supports, ambient temp is critical to good prints and ensure that the room is a min 23C and also leave the bottle of resin near the central heating vent to warm the resin prior to filling the vat.
The mega 8K is the third Photocure resin printer we have bought, The Peopoly L and the Form 2 being our first. We also have a Raise 3D pro that we bought used. The mega 8K, I have to say, is the very first printer we have ever bought that worked the first time, right out of the box, using their recommended resin and settings. Thus far, the only failed prints we have had were due entirely to our own experimentation with settings. If we use the Aqua 4K resin or the ABS-like resin, we get perfect print, every time. Its not fast, but I would rather wait a little longer for a great print, than lose every third print just to try and squeeze a print out faster.
@@aru-YT No, I just run my own design business. And the form 2 was around 4K, and was not a good purchase. It never ran that well and the resins were too costly, and the build volume too small. The Phrozen Mega 8K was Only $2600, as we bought it on a kickstarter campaign, and the peopoly is even less than that, although I got mine for free by trading it for a Raise 3D Plus. A huge filament printer that we bought used for around $2,500. Keep in mind that when I buy 120 pounds of plastilene, that that alone runs over $1,000, and today’s LCD resin printers are not that costly. When I first started sending files to print, it was 1998 and a resin printer cost a hundred grand, so we used service bureaus. And I still routinely have to send large files to CNC mills where just the milled part cost between 6 and 15 grand. In the realm I work in, designing and making large sculptures, a modern resin printer is not a large expense.
Owen, I use lots of SLA and FDM (including some really high end stuff) my $200 SLA printer has vastly better quality than the $15,000 FDM printer I use at work. Its basically perfect. Also once you dial in the edge tolerance you can easy print a part with +- 0.005” tolerances (standard call for machined parts)
It's possible but not the technologies strength imo, much better for detailed models. They're pretty soft before curing so keeping dimensional accuracy is REALLY difficult.
I've made a large handle for my garage door using the strong abs like resin from sirayatec. 33 days in Florida weather. No cracking or discoloration. Much better the the simple from sirayatec that begain hairline fracturing after day 2 and faield a few days later
I’m about to use my resin printer to print around 600 corner connectors to build up to 30 custom spherical ( well dodecahedron ) LED light sources. Why not the most complicated print ( I’ve used my Cetus fdm to print the protypes ) it’s certainly the most practical way to make the quantities required.
A little trick that I've learned after 1 year in resin print is to take a towel and spray a little bit of ptfe grease on it and with it oil the fep before the resin. That's work so good for me that i've never changed fep again and the "bop" sound is almost gone.
Suuuper Rad video - as a lifelong scifi hobbyist who use to obsess over WARHAMMER 40K figures -this was extra fun to watch seeing that people can now design and print figurines so easily let alone as this technology improves over the coming years = gonna be fun to see this all evolve!!
Crazy to think just over 5 years ago the most available 3D printers were expensive and had pretty grainy prints Now we got 8K prints on extra large porous resin printers
Thanks for this super detailed review! Great to see it in action. Also, very cool to get a look at it through a macro lens. Haven't seen anyone try that before. Quick note: those ridges are NOT a product of the screen resolution, but the layer height. You're looking at the size of the layer each time the build plate lifted. The screen resolution is represented in the roundness of the edges around the layer, which in my experience has been pretty much indistinguishable whether using 2k, 4k or 6k. Seems to be quite high enough in any case. What you SHOULD keep in mind, however, is the cost of replacing that screen when the UV light inevitably wears it out.
Yep, you can still barely see the pixels in some areas but it's incredibly difficult at this resolution. It makes the 50um layers look huge. The mono panels last longer but indeed are consumable, not sure how much this one will be to replace.
This ia a good review!!! The learning curve is massive, Thank You. it really takes a skilled craftsman who knows , 3D modeling, paint, solvents, resins, engineering design etc... It is not plug and play for the layman. So far I have been lucky with the Sonic Mega 8k but my background includes all of these skill sets professionally for decades. I prepped an indoor climate controlled room with a paint fan & a variac a wall of filters, rubber floor & laminated paint table.. On my first medium sized print I saw all the issues you mention half way through. I stopped the print tripled my wall thickness to 6mm, used heavy supports anywhere the angel was horizontal, set my infill to 50% & dug drain holes. Then I sealed the windows and put a space heater in the hall out side the intake room door. The room stays between 70 & 75 degrees. Every large print for 1 month now have been successful. Only some slight warping which I solved with more & heavy supports The fire proof exhaust fan turned down to 40 volts & laminated table helped a lot for cleaning with IPA & fumes.... Be careful this stuff is a flammable bomb, you must now what you are doing with IPA... I brush and paper towel wipe the build plate & parts. It turns out this is a science.. Great video you hit all the main points.... Hope this description helps to solve a few. 1 month in to resin printing full size sculptures and they are amazing... This is a dream come true... Warning Variacs and Ulstra sonics cleaners can cause sparks or ignition and should never be anywhere near IPA....
Lychee Slicer has some great support customization options, including, taper, lenght of the tip, penetration into the model, etc, so it looks like these models were sliced in Lychee (and if not, that slicer can to it so you can build similar support structures for your own prints).
Those long pointy supports are made in Lychee. It also has better support bridging meaning tall supports are much more rigid than compared to chitubox.
So for me it seems like "standard" 3d printing is still the most viable every day way to print, but rest is best for when you need something that seems almost layerless
Resin printers seem a lot better for if you're printing a lot of miniatures or highly detailed models, but an fdm printer is better if you're printing a bunch of functional/articultated parts, or just don't want as much post processing
regular filament 3d printers are a lot more maintainable too.... given that resin printers go the proprietary route a lot of the time, is a LOT more expencive, and the lcd screens used to cast the pictures of the layers you cure... just DON'T last. at all.
It really comes down to what you are printing and why. It used to be "small and detail go resin, large and unadorned go FDM" But big machines like the 8K are changing that. I haven't even fired up my FDM for 12 months, just using Elegoo Mars and Saturn and once the Mega 8K arrives, I may get rid of the FDM altogether. Once you have the settings and supports dialed in and have your processes refined, there's nothing quite like taking a print off the machine, washing, removing supports, curing... and then going straight to priming and painting. Even in the worst-case scenarios, a few minutes with high grit sandpaper and you're smooth and ready to prime. I do NOT miss hours of fill, sand, prime, fill, sand, prime, fill, sand, prime ad nauseum. And as you saw with the dagger Angus printed, props and large scale cosplay stuff off a resin printer is so insanely clean and detailed.
@@Starganderfish This channel is an FDM fan club, most still think FDM is superior and haven’t realized how cheap and easy SLA has become. The guy who said FDM printers are more maintainable made me laugh.
Much as I understand the reasoning behind the porous design on the bed, I wish they'd angle it too. That way you get the resin able to drip off and the reduced suction. Still means that a flex plate for these beds is basically impossible though. Adding that would guarantee a mess.
You need to add a heater inside the unit. I use a incubator heater for all 3 of my printers. I keep the temp at 85F degrees, you won’t regret it. Another Tip: run the supports under hot water fir a few seconds before curing and they will come off so easily.
I've literally never even seen a 3D printer in person but I love your channel! I feel like by the time the tech gets down to me I'll be fully prepared XD
For the thumb screws grind off the first part of the thread down to the thread min. diameter. Do 6mm or 1/4" at a time. This will leave the first part for locating. No need for them to put a cam lock on. That would increase the price.
Could also put some washers in there to reduce the need spin the screw as much. Heck, print some spacers until you find the right height to ensure enough pressure.
I just want a consumer 3D printer that works very well, is very consistent, doesn't have constant issues, that I can set-and-forget with confidence. Unfortunately, I feel like that's still a long way away. ...hell, we still haven't even fully mastered TWO-dimensional printers, yet. 😂
Considering Filament printers i can recommend the flsun Q5 Very beginner friendly, as it is pretty much Plug and Play and puts Out really good quality prints Out of the Box. Especially considering the price
As always, informative and engaging Angus. Whenever I start to watch a review of a resin printer, I wonder if I should get one. Then as the review progresses, I'm reminded of all the reasons why I've avoided this mess-fest and by the end of the review, I'm, "No way!" What I should keep in mind is getting resin prints from a service bureau if there's something I really want that isn't going to work on FDM.
I run a mono and there is no marbling when you mix resins of different color. The resin is mixed too quickly. Using Inland "standard" resin I can mix anything together and the prints do fine. You get some funky colors. Most are nicer than the originals. Given that you paint most of this stuff, color matters little compared to using every drop of resin.
Why would an engineer design a platform leveling mechanism involving 4 screws is beyond me. That's the sort of thing that's used for a prototyping phase and then just gets neglected for revision because of manufacturing deadlines. Three points make a plane. 4 makes a taco.
Depends on what the levelling system they have there is. There is a really nice 4 screw levelling system that is much better than the ball joint level systems. The four screws don't act like the ones at the corners of an FDM printer bed, they are just there for clamping force.
@@originaltrilogy1 ok, I could see a system where that's useful. But 2 things: 1.) That's exactly the type used on my early-gen resin printer(KLD-LCD 1260) 2.) They say bed leveled from the factory. So basically the user is told not to mess with anything and it'll be fine (it never works out that way) So until proven wrong, I'm gonna call it lazy design. But still, your point stands. 4 screws can work well to secure a leveled plate in place.
Amazing quality video as always ! If there was ever an argument of thumbnail effecting performance iono of a better example haha Also I’m so glad elegoo added the “vat cleaning” mode now it’s great!
How much are replacement LCDs and how many hours do they last? Or is that not an issue anymore with resin printers? Enjoyed the video, no interest in resin printing, but MM is just such a likeable guy.
5:11 I always use a short L-shaped usb extension cable for two reasons. One, the L shape male end is to prevent accidental snap of anything attaching to the system. Second, because the drive gets pugged and unplugged so often, any wear to the connector happens on this cable’s end
@@SibaNL Not an option with resin printers as far as I am aware, and its more that when a printer has built in networking of any kind people dont bother to review that feature of it.
Thanks for the video, Angus. Looks like an amazing printer. However, I personally don't want to touch resin based printers. I know it will be a little off topic but could you do a video about that tower of electronics you have sitting beside your synth. I would like to see what you have on that stand and what it all does.
5:35 Yooo the MTC Saga Background is neat! Overall, the 3d printer seems extremely cool. Looking forward to what'll come out of such a detailed 3d printer.
Huh... I might have to look into getting one of these when I get into 3D printing. This would be AWESOME for prototyping things for my airguns or lightsaber hilts. Or printing 8K furry ass.
TH-camrs are even 3D printing clickbait. now. What a time to be alive.
i read this with the two minute papers guy voice
@@ENJERUNE me too
"Amazing! What a time to be alive!"
If it’s real is it clickbait tho 🤔
@@Toma-621 Yes, if it isn’t real then it’s just lying.
This man finally understands click bait. I’m one day he’s collected over 10x his average view count XD
It's the ears
@@MakersMuse Make some hi-res Anime Noodle Toppers (they sit on a cup of instant ramen to hold the top down while it rests after microwaving) and give the g-code out for free and you will break the internet, resin printers will go out of stock across the world, doubling of your subs overnight. Then Twitter will cancel you. /s
My print is almost done...
I a simple man i do simple things if i see bunny ears i click
A man of culture knows a good thick resin print out when he sees one!
Wow. Imagine a printer of this quality for 2000 dollars a few years ago. The progress of affordable 3D printing is amazing
How much is this
@@Reyeston007 it’s still $1700 lol. So not that much different.
@@norikmovsesyan6516 Redin 3D printers are around 250-750 US dollars from Small to medium size. you dont need the expensive ones
@@israelrobles681 right, but I was talking about this specific one.
It's going for a thousand now, crazy
A good tip for resin printing is make the edges of the raft angled upwards, this helps so much with removing prints.
This is the first of these printer videos I've seen that didn't bore me in seconds and was easy to follow and understand. With a comprehensive review with no bullshit. Thanks mate. I appreciate it.
use a hairdryer on the supports it will heat them up and make them flex and easy to remove from models leaving no puck marks. i also use the hairdryer to warm up the resin before a print. :) hope this helps with your cleanups.
I've actually been using a similar technique by soaking my prints in hot water after cleaning with alcohol, albeit before curing
I’ll have to try this. But I would need to buy a hair dryer first…
@@andrewgillis3073 Thankfully, not the hardest part
Good tips! I used to blast FDM print chambers with a heat gun for ABS so it makes sense :)
@@andrewgillis3073 use the hottest water from your tap, that should work too
Resins back on the menu boys! Nicely done and I was just thinking I need to break out my space heater for my resin print room as that temp challenge is a very very real thing.
I reckon the heated vat approach is killer, can't wait to see it rolled out!
I spent ages looking up different mini heaters. Everything from reptile tank heater mats to space heaters. In the end I went for a normal space heater with a temperature gadget sitting next to the printers. I don't even start a print until I see its toasty in my shed and that has seriously reduced my fails by an order of magnitude. I'd love a more automated setup with temperature control but this is an expensive hobby and I'm fighting my battles as money allows haha.
@@ClayMann thats what I run with as well. I will fire mine up for a bit then shut it off if im not with it,.
@@UncleJessy living in L.A. it was never an issue in the garage. I moved to Albuquerque and in the winter it did get close to freezing weather. Lots of failed prints. I have photo mono x. Is it OK to have inside the house?
@@MakersMuse Inkbird do a nice 240 volt thermostat that controls heating and cooling. I built a cabinet with a 300watt 240v PTC heater fan combo and a PC fan to exhaust the cabinet if it gets hot. Not sure what I will do with cooling when summer is here in melbourne aus.
I love it that when you manage to get a macro so close you see the layers on a resin print, you make your own fingerprints look like mountains
"Yeah so first few things to make with an 8k resolution printer, go."
MM: "Hmm Lola Bunny sounds good"
"Wha-?"
MM: "Rabbet"
“Cringe”
This isn't only good for models, it's also really really good for prototyping massive amounts of smaller parts for mechanical assemblies that require several small parts. I'd get one just for that, as it leaves the parts far smoother than a regular FFF printer can achieve.
I've said this before, I say this in about every new resin printer video I come across, and I'll continually say it again until there's actual change: Resin printers need to get away from resolutions and use PPI instead. Resolutions don't mean anything without PPI, a 5" display and a 50" display can have the same resolution but their pixel density is wildly different. Beyond this, we should also know pixel aspect ratio, if we're dealing with true squares or not. Further beyond this, we should also know Z axis resolution, as we can combine this with pixel aspect ratios and form a voxel aspect ratio, because even if the pixel aspect ratio is square, Z axis resolution won't always necessarily form a cubic voxel, but rather a rectangular prism with two square faces. Yeah, sure, you can figure out the PPI yourself, but that really shouldn't be necessary, just replace resolution numbers with PPI numbers on the box; this also doesn't fix the lack of information about pixel aspect ratio, Z axis resolution, and voxel aspect ratio. This argument is also entirely valid because any other printer uses DPI numbers, and not some arbitrary resolution of the print carriage axis. It's annoying that we're still using resolution numbers, especially on production and industrial machines, because it's really nothing better than clickbait, as the resolution number itself doesn't provide useful information as per the quality of the prints; and to make this issue worse, some printers don't even directly mention the size of the display, you have to go hunting through different spec sheets just to find what should be relevant information.
resolution is a easier measurement to market (AMAZING 8K RESIN PRINTER) sounds a lot better than 600ppi
@@LlamaCraft Make that argument with the 2D printer market as well. Oh wait, you can't, because the printer market decided to actually advertise proper DPI numbers. Your marketing argument is nothing more than the product equivalent of clickbait, it's not need and absolutely worthless when relevant numbers are concerned. It's also similar to the display industry, though resolution there is actually a marketable number, but a 60" 4k will look a hell of a lot different than a 32" 4k at the same viewing distances. L take anyways, more people within the hobby and industry agree with the original comment, because PPI numbers are actually important when SLA and MSLA are concerned. Clearly you don't actually understand any of what's being talked about.
@@LlamaCraft Its not easier..it it simply the common description but average customer doesnt know the technical requirements - only that the number gets bigger so it must be better... which is why the argument from Peaches stands. If every manufacturer and advertiser switched to a true standard of measure like that...it would simply replace the inaccurate 4k/5k jargon. Which - playing Devils Advocate, is possibly why this switch will never happen..because Sales thrives on vague and generalized definitions so they can make their product pitch to sound like WOW Shock and Awe for could end up being a piece of crap.
@@johndurrett3573 Jesus I made two people angry over pixel density how I love the internet
Nerds
interesting thumbnail
Effective thumbnail.
I didn’t know you could print vehicles with 3 dimensional printers
Especially dump trucks
Lola Bunny: When you can't admit to being a furry.
Lola bunny and an open species from twitter, definitely not a furry.
@@Renthur1 so... a furry
I still can’t wrap my head around that he really just did that as the thumbnail
@@DoggyBingBong Check the views... it works.
Furries are the only thing that is surprisingly legal that should be punished by death
A respectable clickbait. No false advertising and no red circles or pog faces.
Dude knew EXACTLY what he was doing with the thumbnail
wow, I'm surprised that my species Rabbizorg got 3d printed, thank you for liking them!
They're wonderful designs!
Rabbit protogen
Rabbit protogen
You must construct additional pylons.
Lola… a man of culture I see.
He's learning from MxR. "Dat ass!" Jeanie : "No Henry! Nooooo!"
@@privatelisting366 yesssss
Once again an amazing video :) and im so happy to see my model being featured here. The necromonger blade is flawlessly beautifull printed on the Phrozen sonic mega 8k, its just sick :D
Such a sweet model, I love it!
@@MakersMuse Will we see it finished? Sanded and painted and presented with a huge smile?
I am sure someone has already commented this but to answer your question from 11:35 : The slicer that I know, that can do these support is Lychee and it does a great job of it too.
I know this is stupid and off topic, but i love your desktop background. You are one of culture.
13:34 “I absolutely love the mashup of animal and robotic features”
Who’s gonna tell em about protogens
Yeah tell me pls
the quality of some of those prints is incredible a few years ago i would've expected to see that quality only in very high end industrial uses not something a standard civilian can own. absolutely amazing. thanks for sharing Maker's Muse!
It's been done many years ago for that level of microns. For something close, one of my 2010 machines did 20-25 micron resolution at the consumer level. I just wouldn't recommend it for large solid objects since the pressure build up is insane.
Phrozen should include a metal block with pins that directly interface with the holes in the build plate. Pop off the build plate and gently push it down over the pin panel. The resin is flushed and the print is nudged off. Some re-engineering would have to be done. But it would be cool.
OMG! This is a game changer! I'm a metal artist and the possibilities are making me crazy excited! Thank you for the review and now I'm a subscriber.
But is the blade half a gram heavy on the back side?
YOU KEEP WHAT YOU KILL, RIDDICK!!!
When I saw this machine: "Yay! I can print all my 7" figures in one piece!"
It runs exclusively on Chitubox: "Well, it was good while it lasted. Hard pass."
New to resin. What's wrong with Chitubox?
@@groundzero_-lm4md Partly personal opinion, partly experience, but chitu recently went full retard and started locking new resin machines exclusively to their boards so you have to use their software. If you prefer, say, Lychee or PrusaSlicer, you're boned out of using those slicers.
I used to prefer Chitu back in the early resin days, but Lychee is far and away a more efficient program, even the free version. And it works with a number of odd-ball printer formats, like my zcode printer that the factory software it comes with is absolutely garbage.
@@C-M-E it sucks that resin isn't as universally compatible with everything as FFF is.
Same. I've moved entirely over to Lychee, and at this point can pretty much rely on their auto-supports 99% of the time, and I'm not interested in going back to Chitu.
@@variancehammer246 I'm curious though, couldn't you save a supported STL from lychee and then do the final slice in chitubox? Obviously i'm against it in principal and am going to boycott chitubox locked printers.
Living on the Canadian Prairie, my first reaction was "it's funny that he thinks +14 is cold." My second, stronger reaction was "I should probably never to to Australia in their summer, because *I* think +30 is hot."
Living in Russia
Can confirm, +27 and im headed straight to hell
Heatwaves got the weather up to +37 this summer, so it's already too hot to live here for me! xD
45° starts to get warm.
Same here!
Hot and cold are relative. I grew up in the Midwest America, so high humidity and temperature in the summer is the norm. In winter, it averages near the freezing point. I’ve since moved to Southern California, and a cool day people complain it’s freezing. If your pipes aren’t in danger of freezing over, it’s not freezing. Cold, maybe. But not freezing.
Really? I'm from the Scotland at 20+ you don't see a single man with his top on.
And that giddiness rt there is why I love this hobby! Thanks again Angus!
“Just check out those ears” Don’t you wana just bit em? 😉
The thumbnail tho, TAKE MY LIKE
Good video, I can't imagine the clean-up of this size of printer when the Mars 2 Pro is already a hassle.
This is my concern
Great to see an Aussie review, use a Photon Mono myself and after a fair few print fails I to have found that aside from sufficient supports, ambient temp is critical to good prints and ensure that the room is a min 23C and also leave the bottle of resin near the central heating vent to warm the resin prior to filling the vat.
The mega 8K is the third Photocure resin printer we have bought, The Peopoly L and the Form 2 being our first. We also have a Raise 3D pro that we bought used. The mega 8K, I have to say, is the very first printer we have ever bought that worked the first time, right out of the box, using their recommended resin and settings. Thus far, the only failed prints we have had were due entirely to our own experimentation with settings. If we use the Aqua 4K resin or the ABS-like resin, we get perfect print, every time. Its not fast, but I would rather wait a little longer for a great print, than lose every third print just to try and squeeze a print out faster.
You must work 19 jobs to be able to afford three expensive resin printers
@@aru-YT No, I just run my own design business. And the form 2 was around 4K, and was not a good purchase. It never ran that well and the resins were too costly, and the build volume too small. The Phrozen Mega 8K was Only $2600, as we bought it on a kickstarter campaign, and the peopoly is even less than that, although I got mine for free by trading it for a Raise 3D Plus. A huge filament printer that we bought used for around $2,500. Keep in mind that when I buy 120 pounds of plastilene, that that alone runs over $1,000, and today’s LCD resin printers are not that costly. When I first started sending files to print, it was 1998 and a resin printer cost a hundred grand, so we used service bureaus. And I still routinely have to send large files to CNC mills where just the milled part cost between 6 and 15 grand. In the realm I work in, designing and making large sculptures, a modern resin printer is not a large expense.
A side by side of the maker coin from this and a 0.2mm layer FDM machine would help put the quality in perspective.
Owen, I use lots of SLA and FDM (including some really high end stuff) my $200 SLA printer has vastly better quality than the $15,000 FDM printer I use at work. Its basically perfect. Also once you dial in the edge tolerance you can easy print a part with +- 0.005” tolerances (standard call for machined parts)
That would be interesting to see a video showcasing useful prints from a resin printer
It's possible but not the technologies strength imo, much better for detailed models. They're pretty soft before curing so keeping dimensional accuracy is REALLY difficult.
@@MakersMuse That would make the video REALLY interesting 😉
I've made a large handle for my garage door using the strong abs like resin from sirayatec. 33 days in Florida weather. No cracking or discoloration. Much better the the simple from sirayatec that begain hairline fracturing after day 2 and faield a few days later
@@aos7194 Yeah but that's something an FDM printer would do just as well
I’m about to use my resin printer to print around 600 corner connectors to build up to 30 custom spherical ( well dodecahedron ) LED light sources. Why not the most complicated print ( I’ve used my Cetus fdm to print the protypes ) it’s certainly the most practical way to make the quantities required.
A little trick that I've learned after 1 year in resin print is to take a towel and spray a little bit of ptfe grease on it and with it oil the fep before the resin. That's work so good for me that i've never changed fep again and the "bop" sound is almost gone.
I assume it doesn't really affect the model much?
@@ilyas5708 not at all
Woah that sounds like a game changer
The slicer that Titanforge use is called Lychee, has a lot more control over supports than Chitubox does.
Suuuper Rad video - as a lifelong scifi hobbyist who use to obsess over WARHAMMER 40K figures -this was extra fun to watch seeing that people can now design and print figurines so easily let alone as this technology improves over the coming years = gonna be fun to see this all evolve!!
Crazy to think just over 5 years ago the most available 3D printers were expensive and had pretty grainy prints
Now we got 8K prints on extra large porous resin printers
If heat is an issue, it will be interesting to see how it does in the heatwave you'll start to have in several months.
The recommended temperature for the resin I use is 25° - 30°C. Works fine above 20° and I guess it will still work fine at 40°.
Thanks for this super detailed review! Great to see it in action. Also, very cool to get a look at it through a macro lens. Haven't seen anyone try that before. Quick note: those ridges are NOT a product of the screen resolution, but the layer height. You're looking at the size of the layer each time the build plate lifted. The screen resolution is represented in the roundness of the edges around the layer, which in my experience has been pretty much indistinguishable whether using 2k, 4k or 6k. Seems to be quite high enough in any case. What you SHOULD keep in mind, however, is the cost of replacing that screen when the UV light inevitably wears it out.
Yep, you can still barely see the pixels in some areas but it's incredibly difficult at this resolution. It makes the 50um layers look huge. The mono panels last longer but indeed are consumable, not sure how much this one will be to replace.
This ia a good review!!! The learning curve is massive, Thank You. it really takes a skilled craftsman who knows , 3D modeling, paint, solvents, resins, engineering design etc... It is not plug and play for the layman. So far I have been lucky with the Sonic Mega 8k but my background includes all of these skill sets professionally for decades. I prepped an indoor climate controlled room with a paint fan & a variac a wall of filters, rubber floor & laminated paint table.. On my first medium sized print I saw all the issues you mention half way through. I stopped the print tripled my wall thickness to 6mm, used heavy supports anywhere the angel was horizontal, set my infill to 50% & dug drain holes. Then I sealed the windows and put a space heater in the hall out side the intake room door. The room stays between 70 & 75 degrees. Every large print for 1 month now have been successful. Only some slight warping which I solved with more & heavy supports The fire proof exhaust fan turned down to 40 volts & laminated table helped a lot for cleaning with IPA & fumes.... Be careful this stuff is a flammable bomb, you must now what you are doing with IPA... I brush and paper towel wipe the build plate & parts. It turns out this is a science.. Great video you hit all the main points.... Hope this description helps to solve a few. 1 month in to resin printing full size sculptures and they are amazing... This is a dream come true... Warning Variacs and Ulstra sonics cleaners can cause sparks or ignition and should never be anywhere near IPA....
I see that desktop background there. A man of taste I see.
Lychee Slicer has some great support customization options, including, taper, lenght of the tip, penetration into the model, etc, so it looks like these models were sliced in Lychee (and if not, that slicer can to it so you can build similar support structures for your own prints).
Those long pointy supports are made in Lychee. It also has better support bridging meaning tall supports are much more rigid than compared to chitubox.
Ah awesome thanks, I hope it becomes compatible.
You can make those kind of supports in chitubox too. It's just a lot of work since you have to place them all manually.
So for me it seems like "standard" 3d printing is still the most viable every day way to print, but rest is best for when you need something that seems almost layerless
Layerless or just generally high-precision. Though I do agree with FDM being more viable in general
Resin printers seem a lot better for if you're printing a lot of miniatures or highly detailed models, but an fdm printer is better if you're printing a bunch of functional/articultated parts, or just don't want as much post processing
regular filament 3d printers are a lot more maintainable too.... given that resin printers go the proprietary route a lot of the time, is a LOT more expencive, and the lcd screens used to cast the pictures of the layers you cure... just DON'T last. at all.
It really comes down to what you are printing and why. It used to be "small and detail go resin, large and unadorned go FDM" But big machines like the 8K are changing that. I haven't even fired up my FDM for 12 months, just using Elegoo Mars and Saturn and once the Mega 8K arrives, I may get rid of the FDM altogether. Once you have the settings and supports dialed in and have your processes refined, there's nothing quite like taking a print off the machine, washing, removing supports, curing... and then going straight to priming and painting. Even in the worst-case scenarios, a few minutes with high grit sandpaper and you're smooth and ready to prime. I do NOT miss hours of fill, sand, prime, fill, sand, prime, fill, sand, prime ad nauseum. And as you saw with the dagger Angus printed, props and large scale cosplay stuff off a resin printer is so insanely clean and detailed.
@@Starganderfish This channel is an FDM fan club, most still think FDM is superior and haven’t realized how cheap and easy SLA has become. The guy who said FDM printers are more maintainable made me laugh.
YOUR BACKGROUND! I thought i was the only one that enjoyed those music videos xD
I don't even plan on buying a 3d printer but the thumbnail got me to clicking the vid still
Game's workshop: *whimpers*
"Its scared"
Much as I understand the reasoning behind the porous design on the bed, I wish they'd angle it too. That way you get the resin able to drip off and the reduced suction.
Still means that a flex plate for these beds is basically impossible though. Adding that would guarantee a mess.
I wonder if adding a heavy countersink would help, and wouldn't add too much machining time. Might experiment!
You need to add a heater inside the unit. I use a incubator heater for all 3 of my printers. I keep the temp at 85F degrees, you won’t regret it. Another Tip: run the supports under hot water fir a few seconds before curing and they will come off so easily.
Which incubator heater do you use?
I'm hoping that's in Fahrenheit
@@rpavlik1 yes it is. 85F degrees
@@rpavlik1 Kelvin.
Bro, i ain't even mad about the thumbnail. That's actually really creative clickbait.
I've literally never even seen a 3D printer in person but I love your channel! I feel like by the time the tech gets down to me I'll be fully prepared XD
Yeah! It's handy to know about even if you don't use it personally. It's a really accessible technology now for DIY / Projects.
For the thumb screws grind off the first part of the thread down to the thread min. diameter. Do 6mm or 1/4" at a time. This will leave the first part for locating. No need for them to put a cam lock on. That would increase the price.
Could also put some washers in there to reduce the need spin the screw as much. Heck, print some spacers until you find the right height to ensure enough pressure.
It's great to see a review of an ethical and cool company that makes a quality-ass machine!
hahaha good one
you get the latest, most detailed and most technically advanced 3d resin printer and you print a thicc bunny girl twice?
I thought that’s what you were supposed to do… :o
Dude got his priorities straight
hes a man of culture. He sees a thicc model and he print.
Came for the Clickbait bum, stayed for the intrigue of the tech and honest presentation of the product.
I am truly impressed with print Quality... this save lot of smoothing polishing procedure
"YOU KEEP WHAT YOU KILL!" HAHA just watched Riddick again the other night. We need another one.
I'm just hear to praise Marko, he makes amazing models, especially for 3d printing. Really easy to print and assemble his models
there is usually a "tank clean" feature so you don't have to drain the whole vat after a failed print
I just want a consumer 3D printer that works very well, is very consistent, doesn't have constant issues, that I can set-and-forget with confidence. Unfortunately, I feel like that's still a long way away.
...hell, we still haven't even fully mastered TWO-dimensional printers, yet. 😂
Considering Filament printers i can recommend the flsun Q5
Very beginner friendly, as it is pretty much Plug and Play and puts Out really good quality prints Out of the Box. Especially considering the price
Totally recommend the Ender 3 Pro, once it is correctly set up, and trammed (not leveled!) regularly it will "just" work.
Delighted to see Lola here, but absolutely flabbergasted to see Lordyan as well. Cheers from the dark side!
Also nice printer too I guess.
no way makermuse threw out that clickbate XD
BEST PICTURE
As always, informative and engaging Angus.
Whenever I start to watch a review of a resin printer, I wonder if I should get one. Then as the review progresses, I'm reminded of all the reasons why I've avoided this mess-fest and by the end of the review, I'm, "No way!"
What I should keep in mind is getting resin prints from a service bureau if there's something I really want that isn't going to work on FDM.
Try just poring those two colours of resins to make marble effect.
wouldn’t they just mix and get a muddy color?
I run a mono and there is no marbling when you mix resins of different color. The resin is mixed too quickly. Using Inland "standard" resin I can mix anything together and the prints do fine. You get some funky colors. Most are nicer than the originals. Given that you paint most of this stuff, color matters little compared to using every drop of resin.
Sadly resin printing doesn't do that, the movement of the print bed will mix the colors together.
You’d need a very thick viscous resin to make it not mix right off the bat but over time with the bed moving it will inevitably mix
Responding to my first comment:
It could still make a cool look because it would go from a marble look and fade to a mixed color
Don't forget you can adjust antialiasing to help smooth out the layers
finally re-found this video again! that rabbizord model is really good
Came to the thumbnail. Stayed for the Phrozen Sonic Mega 8K Review
Why would an engineer design a platform leveling mechanism involving 4 screws is beyond me. That's the sort of thing that's used for a prototyping phase and then just gets neglected for revision because of manufacturing deadlines. Three points make a plane. 4 makes a taco.
Depends on what the levelling system they have there is. There is a really nice 4 screw levelling system that is much better than the ball joint level systems. The four screws don't act like the ones at the corners of an FDM printer bed, they are just there for clamping force.
@@originaltrilogy1 ok, I could see a system where that's useful. But 2 things:
1.) That's exactly the type used on my early-gen resin printer(KLD-LCD 1260)
2.) They say bed leveled from the factory. So basically the user is told not to mess with anything and it'll be fine (it never works out that way)
So until proven wrong, I'm gonna call it lazy design. But still, your point stands. 4 screws can work well to secure a leveled plate in place.
It is a large and heavy piece of Al alloy. That's why.
Immediately prints an 8k resolution Lola DONK
Maker's Muse now a lagomorph furry question mark
Bnuuy
@@nrdesign1991 rawrbit
Printing out a model as a test doesn't necessarily constitute furriness.
@@1kuhny never know, could be their gateway
i dont even do 3d printing but i kept watching
Amazing quality video as always ! If there was ever an argument of thumbnail effecting performance iono of a better example haha
Also I’m so glad elegoo added the “vat cleaning” mode now it’s great!
How much are replacement LCDs and how many hours do they last? Or is that not an issue anymore with resin printers? Enjoyed the video, no interest in resin printing, but MM is just such a likeable guy.
Those "Ears"
Very big ears
i'm somewhat of an 🄴🄰🅁 man myself.
I really need to get one of these. I feel like you could easily make back the cost selling prints.
Great review thanks Angus!
Never been here, that's the power of good thumbnails
are we just going to ignore the thumbnail?
swag resolution, make sure you focus on it :)
I’d love to see some “fabric” printed on that.
Who else noticed the remaining supports on the blade?
Didn't remove em yet well spotted!
I did
5:11 I always use a short L-shaped usb extension cable for two reasons.
One, the L shape male end is to prevent accidental snap of anything attaching to the system.
Second, because the drive gets pugged and unplugged so often, any wear to the connector happens on this cable’s end
That's a mighty fine Roland JP8080 you have in the background.
No one ever includes the networking features of literally any printers in their reviews :(.
I’ve heard WiFi is more of a hassle than it’s worth.
If you want a networked printer, octoprint is probably a good bet
@@SibaNL Not an option with resin printers as far as I am aware, and its more that when a printer has built in networking of any kind people dont bother to review that feature of it.
@@Xploit66 Fair point. I didn't realize octoprint / alternatives weren't a thing with resin printers
Just whatched the one by Uncle Jessy, perfect timing
Thanks for the video, Angus. Looks like an amazing printer. However, I personally don't want to touch resin based printers. I know it will be a little off topic but could you do a video about that tower of electronics you have sitting beside your synth. I would like to see what you have on that stand and what it all does.
Seems like a reasonably capable machine at a competitive price.
Never done any 3D printing but have been thinking about it for a while.
ngl i clicked on it to learn more about resin printers, and needless to say just based off the cute ass robot-rabbit thing, you get a subscriber
13:25 you're contamited with the pathowogen, it's to late now
uwu oh noes
@@MakersMuse ok wait hol up 🤚Angus mate one more warning before mate
That's about 4K per each cheek!
last company I work , has buy a 24" inch 4K HUGE Resin Printer , end up one use it few time , as it too troublesome to use and clean >_
5:35 Yooo the MTC Saga Background is neat!
Overall, the 3d printer seems extremely cool. Looking forward to what'll come out of such a detailed 3d printer.
I really wasn’t expecting much, “butt” I am a bit Impressed on the Lola Bunny models.
Huh... I might have to look into getting one of these when I get into 3D printing. This would be AWESOME for prototyping things for my airguns or lightsaber hilts.
Or printing 8K furry ass.
:therock_sus:
13:37 Angus is saying that as if all viewers of his channel knew what that means :D
The nasty resin , fumes,, and cleanup keeps me from getting another . Amazing surface finish though!
I feel ya, i want a resin printer badly but i'm scared of developing allergies 😂
It's good that the community understands the risks now. When they first came out people didn't know how bad the resin was
The stubby USB is a great suggestion... Thank you.
i find your S3rl MTC saga wallpaper to be top class.
where you named after beef?
Yes
@@MakersMuse cool