How to Replace Upper Control Arm-Jeep Liberty KJ
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 ต.ค. 2024
- Step by step process to replace upper control arm and ball joint on Jeep Liberty Model KJ. This is an easy replacement that can be done with tools usually found in home shop.
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This is one of those jobs that seems pretty doable. But when you're under the car in 90+ degree weather the fun wears off pretty quick.
Nicely done man.
All the best and 73s,
Jay
Thank you very much for this. Ive been doing mine little by little for the past few days (replacing bushings, all ball joints, sway links, etc.) Has been a real headache. Then got to the driver side upper control arm. I was planning on taking out everything on the driver's side just to get to that bolt. No one else online would show how to do the driver's side. Your video helped a lot. 🙏🏻
Thanks for the video, I can't believe how clean all the parts are, they all look brand new. All the vehicles I had they are all rusty. I lived in MN, now OH so that's probably why
Thanks so much for this tutorial, it was a real help. I had difficulty with two things when I did mine. Firstly, I couldn't get the nut off the ball joint. I unscrewed it until it was almost off, and then it seized. I couldn't unscrew it any further, and I couldn't tighten it back down either, despite the fact that I wire brushed it clean and used plenty of penetrating oil. Eventually, the little 10mm hex that you use to stop it turning rounded off completely. I ended up just using a hacksaw to cut through the stud.
The second problem that I had was that the rear control arm bolt was stuck fast in the hole. I got the nut off ok, but the bolt itself was stuck. I ended up putting a prybar up against the anti-rotation tab and using it as a lever while pounding it with a sledgehammer. Never known anything like it. I got it out eventually and there was a bit of rust on it, but not enough to explain how it was stuck in there so tightly. The whole ordeal took over four hours, but I got it done in the end.
Great tutorial I appreciate the step by step explanation
Thanks for following along. ~John
Great advice on the brake lines. Replacing mine today.
"Knuckle" I believe is the word you were looking for. This is an excellent video!
Great video, I just found myself a weekend project
Thank you for showing us all on youtube how to change the upper control arm. I am soaking the bolts with a penetrant to make removal much easier. Keep up the great work too.
Thank you so much for posting this. It gave me the inspiration to plunge ahead and replace the left upper control arm on my wife's KK. I was forced into the replacement while installing new shocks due to the fact that the ball joint threads were ruined by whoever did the last shock replacement. (It was bought used from Hertz). Had to cut the nut apart with a dremel tool to remove it. You're a man after my own heart. I'm 70, and have been working on motorcycles and cars since the late 60's (on the streets of NYC). 73's from former WA2ZDV. (lapsed in 65). Thank you.
John, thanks for watching and congratulations on getting the job done. Sometimes, it takes us older folks a little longer but we still enjoy the project. All the best. ~John
tackling this tomorrow on my jeep. I seen another vid where the bolts were not so easy to get out. You got lucky that yours wasnt all rusted up. Thanks for the tips. One thing i didnt know but have seen on few vids is not torqueing the control arm bolts untill the vehicle is back on the ground. Im glad i did a little research and glad u mentioned it. Also im glad u filmed the driver side most of the other vids where on the passenger side where the bolts are easier to get to. Nice job
You are my Hero for today! Your suggestion for using extensions on the back upper control arm bolt saved me hours of work, aggravation, and frustration. Simple solution yet baffling when going through the process of working in that tight space. Thank you!!!
thank you for all your time in this video. I have to replace these in my wifes jeep liberty. again thank you and good bless you.
Thank you for the video and info , I have 07 jeep liberty sport and she has 200,200 miles on her , this will help me !
Glad it helped
Great video! I'm in the process of replacing ALL of the suspension front & rear on one of my channels project Jeeps (05' Liberty Renegade) Also installing a lift kit and brakes all around.
Thanks for watching and for your comments. Good luck with your project! ~John
Man that's simple! You don't even have to take the struts off or anything. On my car I had to take the strut assembly out of the car because the upper control arm bolted to it. This will be simple. I know my ball joint is shot so gonna order the arm now. Thanks nice to know what I'm looking at. Luckily it's the passenger side on mine lol.
Beautifully done sir. Cozy little background you've got there. The horseshoe behind you is for good luck so good luck to you. Loved the video.
Thank you for this video. I will be attempting this job
Thanks John looks doable at home garage!
they ran from 2002 - 2007 as the KJ replacing the jeep Cherokee. glad you did the driver side EVERY other video for ANYTHING they'll do the passenger side. or the easy side
Christian, Thanks for taking a moment to leave your comment. ~John
Thank you sir. I need to do this same exact job .and I was having my concerns about that rear bolt. Wow you just put me at ease.
Daniel, thanks for watching and glad you got some ideas. ~John
Did u end up doung the job? I just got done with the passenger side and it was terrible. The back bolt would not come out. I hammerd and hammer. Nut came off easy, but couldnt slide bolt out. Took hours but i finally got it. Im terrified to do the drivers side now lol. Im hoping the back passenger side just turns out that way and the other side is easier...
Thank you so much exactly the info i was looking for uper arm control not was spin whit the bolt now I now what to do I will try tomorrow
Glad it helped
Thank you much for your video this gave me the clarity i needed to get my liberty all taken care of in my garage. I appreciate the attention to details. Thanks form KK6YCI.
Tony, thanks for taking a moment to send along your comment. Glad you found some useful info. Hope to meet you on the air someday. 73/John
Great video thx, the details were very helpful
Thank you for helping me repair my Liberty
Thanks for posting this. Very helpful.
Watched parts of video just for reference, good job. FYI, I didn't have to remove the battery tray. Just take the battery out.
Thanks for watching, glad you had success. ~John
Loved it, I'm 73 and do my own wrenching also, would love to see how you replaced the front struts.
James, thanks for taking a moment to leave a comment and send along a suggestion. Perhaps when it warms up, I'll take a look at doing a strut video. ~John
Great video THANK You doing my tomorrow.
We'll see if that part comes out tomorrow, it's the most difficult, I've already done one side, the most complicated one remains. I think I'll get out saving $200 in labor, I'll use that money for roast beef and beers. 😂😂😂😂
The only part I really wanted to see (Actually separating the ball joint) wasn't there, but still good job. Looks like the whole ball joint piece was removed by unbolting it, so wondering why separate it, as the new one was already in place too. I am sure I'll figure it out once I'm in there, just haven't seen the assembly and how it goes together yet. Thanks again! Waiting on my parts.
👌👌 thanks I was starting to think I had to remove the brake line.
you were able to get the cam bolt out without disconnecting the brake line?
Yeah I stuck a block under the line then bent it up a Little but it c as me out
New guy here, just found you. Just want to say that you have a nice combination of mechanical and electronic skill. I looked at a few of your videos for now and I`ll probably make this a regular stop. KD6CFE was here. 73`s
The trick is getting that forward bolt with the kale out - to remove the control arm - without disconnecting the brake line. Good call on the swivel on the extension.
Thanks for watching and for the suggestion. ~John
I was able to get the driver side back bolt from underneath there was enough space to fit a 18mm ratchet wrench on the nut and get the bolt out, I was able to fit the box end just had to push the brakes line over a bit
Thanks for the help the back bolt I was like how the hell are you supposed to get this with the with the steering in the way didn't think I could get it from up front but it helps
Dude youre my hero
great job john, i am going out tackle mine right now :)
Thanks for watching and good luck on your project. ~John
thank you very detail that help me a lot :)
Excellent video! Thank You!
The Cast Steel part that holds the bearing with the upper and lower control arms is called "Knuckle".
Great video. On Target.
Awesome detailed video! Thanks a lot, really helpful!
Thanks for watching. Glad you found the video helpful. ~John
Thanks great job
Actually a guy did the same thing with an 18 inch extension without removing the battery or the steering arm. Same Jeep. I also did the same and mine is a 2006. By the way he used a couple of 1/2 extensions and then an 3/8 inch adapter so he could use an impact wrench.
good job papa nice video make more like this
Thanks for watching and for your comments. ~John
W5CYF / TinkerJohn can you should do the jeep liberty front lower control arm.. I cant find it and someone else maybe looking for a video like that
Thanks for your suggestion. At this time, the lower control are in good condition. When/if they fail, I'll do a video. ~John
I'm working on replacing ALL of the suspension on an '05 Liberty. Weekly videos of it are coming out every Wednesday. I'll be replacing front & rear brakes (pads, rotors, caliper hardware) rear coils & shocks (already replaced rear upper & lower control arms) Then up front it's getting new struts & coils, upper & lower control arms, sway bar end links, sway bar bushings, inner & outer tie rods, ball joints, hub bearings and a lift kit with new wheels & tires! They won't be step by step how to videos, but they may be of some use to you.
Great video thanks!
Great video... just take notice on a crd (diesel motor) the power steering reservoir has to be moved out the way (not disconnected) the boost control module (and bracket) has to be removed along with the air box. and you get about 2 in of room next to turbo on the passanger control arm.. that's the hardest to get to but can be done with common tools. I haven't tackled the drivers side but it looks to be the same I'll post info asap
Also on passenger side the bolt on the front control arm on the fire wall side... once you get it out and reinstall the new arm flip the bolt the opposite way you took it out. This way you can get to it from the bottom of the vehicle with much more room if you don't you will not get a torque wrench on it.
Great video
like the video old man good job im just like you love to work on clunkers well discrive
Cris, thanks for watching and taking a moment to comment. ~John
Sir thank you so much !!!
Thank You sir! Big help.
El, thanks for following along. Glad you had success. ~John
Thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching. ~John
Good explanation!! Btw, what's the name of that tool that looks like a fork?
Lewis, thanks for watching and for your comment. The tool is commonly called a "pickle fork" or tie rod end remover fork. ~John
Thank You sir!!!
John - did your new arm have a prefixed grease boot or was it a hollow boot? Thanks
Jason, thanks for following along. Mine came with grease boot. ~John
The ball joint is one good bump from saying see ya later
Can u please show me where I may find my ac drain line
It’s clogged up ty sir
Thanks for following along, however I've sold the Jeep and can't recall where the drain line is. Perhaps a look at the Jeep forums can help out. ~John
@@TinkerJohn_W5CYF they show it but they guy don’t say anything
Is there a difference between the upper control arm and a lower control arm? I have a 2002 Jeep Liberty and I’m having work done on it I want to make sure I’m buying the right part, most sets say they come with an upper control arm.
in the front, there are 2 control arms on each side (driver and passenger) an upper and a lower. In the rear, there is one lower control arm. In the front the upper and lowers are different lowers are a lot bigger than the uppers. Hope that helps!
Hi, how did you slide the front bolt out with the brake line in the way? I've got it loose but I can't get the bolt out. Thank you
Barrett, It's been a year or so since I replace the control arm, however I think all I had to do was take the bolt out of the bracket and slightly bend the line to get the bolt out. Hope this helps. ~John
I missed the bit in your video where you loosened the bolt holding it solid. I got it done now thanks to your video :)
Mine is stripping the bolt and it’s basically welded together with rust. I’m scared to put heat on it because of the brake lines any suggestions?
PB Blaster or Free All penetrating lubricant is a must have for all DIY car enthusiasts. I can't tell you how many bolts I've gotten unstuck using the stuff.
Cut it from the inside if you can
Angle grinder
My god the driver side control arm back bolt made me want to die
Ikr omg I gave up last night but got it done today thanks to him
Show how to put the control arm bolts back in
Bill, thanks for watching. However I no longer have the Jeep.
Do you have a video of replacing the lower control arm on 05 Jeep Liberty
I don't have that video. Parts on my Jeep are still OK at this time. ~John
On a RHD 2.5CRD the nearside is straightforward - the driver's side rear is virtually impossible to reach with extentions there are too many hoses, cables and the steering colum in the way. Either cut the bush out and replace the cam bolt, or manufacture a tool that allows you to access the nut and get leverage...
Thanks for watching and for the info on the diesel engine version. ~John
RHD Driver's side needed the coolant hose disconnected and pushed out of the way. I used two Universal joints - and several extentions. My son had to hold the socket on the nut as the distortion in the UJs kept pulling the socket off the nut. Once done though it was a pretty simple job. Thans for the guide.
if you don't have a pickle fork all you have to do is hit the spindle with a hammer on the side of the taper
@11:05 "I didn't have to bang or beat" - must be nice. Mine control arm bolt & cam is rusted in place. I'm preparing to use an air hammer to knock my bolt out.
Whereas all the rust. Mines 19 years old and seized solid
How do I adjust camber
James, I did not have to adjust camber. I suggest a Google search to help on this one. ~John
what was the mileage on the bad ball joint?
Judith, I changed the control arm at ~140K. I did not change the ball joint. Thanks for watching.
Assuming your channel name youre a ham radio operator
Thanks for watching Yes, my call sign is W5CYF. ~John
Invest in a tripod……