Everybody be sure to give DonyBoy73 upvotes and subscriptions. He is a better teacher than most making small engine videos. Sadly, I have been watching videos for the last 3 years after getting a Stihl Chain Saw but now, 3 years later, is the first time that I have seen one of DonyBoy73's videos on Small Engine Repair. These are wonderful videos. (DonyBoy73, you are one powerful video journalist!!! )
As a guy who’s trying to learn as I go I want to say thank you. My saw was running awful if at all. Watched this and was able to clean my carb. Didn’t need a replace but runs like new now and saved the $120 the shop wanted to charge.
I had the same model with the same symptoms. After removing the hood, I carefully washed what was accessible with a brush soaked in gasoline. I dismantled the spark plug, which was clean, the air filter which I soaked in water and soap, and then the carburetor, following your instructions, all the way to the diaphragms. I had previously searched for this part, and it was available on Amazon Prime, just in case. I heated the carburetor parts in bleach water until it boiled, for about ten minutes. After rinsing these parts with water, I soaked them in gasoline and reassembled them in reverse order. Everything fits back easily following your instructions. And the machine started right away. Thank you.
Excellent tutorial. Saved me some money and time. Just replaced the carb on my stihl MS181C using this video as a guide. The old carb was bogging so I decided to bite the bullet and order a new carb from eBay. Anyway, replaced it and finally fired up the chainsaw after alot of attempts and now it runs like new again. Had to slightly adjust the idle but that was simple. 👍🏻
Great "Common Sense" video. My neighbor just brought me 4 of his saws that would not start. He does use Ethanol-based fuel. I have tried in the past to get him to switch to 0% Ethanol, with no success. Anyways, I found aftermarket Carbs for all 4 saws. They were as cheap as a Carb rebuild kit, so I Decided to replace all Carbs. they now run like new!
I tried that route with my stihl ms 250 and has issues right out of the box with the aftermarket carb. Would not adjust I could turn the screws in and out and nothing, saw idled at 1/4 throttle which I did not like. Took the aftermarket carb back out picked up a bottle of seafoam took the OEM carb apart and let the carb sit in seafoam overnight, put it all back together the next day 2 pulls saw fired up and was back to normal. Sometimes aftermarket parts work sometimes they don't I guess I just got a bad carb
Don, I contacted the "Chainsaw Guy" from Myrtle Creek saw shop down in Oregon & he gave me the same advice when fixing a stihl weedeater, he recommended replacing the carb vs. rebuilding it. Great advice when fixing someone else's stuff.
You are a credit to us tryer doer's ive just rebuilt my stihl 041 76 saw bolt for bolt and full carb rebuild ive watched your videos so much i no each and every part now on my saw and i am currently rebuilding me stihl ms211c top end and very deep clean thank you for sharing your content and keep up the good work from ireland
Great video Don. I can't stress enough to friends, family and anyone actually, that Ethanol fuels are the bane of small engine issues. Everything from my lawnmower, weed whacker, snow blower and chainsaw have never seen Ethanol fuels. And guess what? Everyone of them start and run like a champ! Obviously there is a little routine maintenance that needs to be done from time to time, but using the right fuel makes these small engines last so much longer. For example, my poor neighbor pulls his guts out trying to start his weed whacker because of crappy Ethanol fuel(and possibly due to a spark arrestor issue, which is likely a crappy fuel cause), yet he is amazed that I prime mine 3x, and one-two pulls every time and it runs like a raped ape!! Thanks again Dony, and I like how you list the actual part numbers you use, that helps out DIY'ers like myself! Much appreciated! Keep up the good content.
Zed 80, when I first got my Stihl chainsaws a few years ago, I saw videos about the stuff in standard fuels like Paraffin and so forth. I immediately began buying the Ethanol Free Gas for all my equipment.
I have watched quite a few of your self-help videos, and they are the best or of the best videos on the internet! Great, clear verbal explanations, steady camera angles and just all-around excellent videos. Thank you very much! Great Job.👍
I have owned this saw for a few years now and it is my go to small wood saw. Lots of power and very capable in most woods. I have never had a regret buying this one.
I have the same issue with a stihl leaf blower. Once I get it started I have to let it run for a couple of minutes to warm up. Then it seems to work okay. If I don't let it warm up, as soon as I pull the trigger it bogs. Always like your videos Don. Good job!
Thanks for your video I'm no mechanic and been having the same issues with my MS 211. I've taken into the shop several times and they just De Carb it and or when I bring it in it runs fine for them but when I'm out in the field it's hit or miss with the saw actually working. I was considering buying a more commercial saw today but think I will order a new carburetor since it looked very simple and no adjusting a Stihl carburetor. Thanks again for your help.
My ms170 does the same thing but not as bad. Sometimes it does great. Other times not so much. Carb is brand new looking and super clean. Thanks for the video.
I had another cause of bogging out that I’ve fixed. I accidently used chain oil in the fuel instead of T2 engine oil. The engine run at idle but bogged out at high revs. When I put the right fuel in it was OK. I went through all of the cleaning and adjusting processes it was only when I tried a new mix of fuel that I realised the fuel in the tank was yellow, the only T2 oil that I have is pink but both bottles are black and look the same. All the best . . . Andy
Great video! One thing I think you failed to mention is that the limiters are not seated on a new carburetor, it’s always a good idea to push them in that way they can’t lean them out causing engine damage.
Don, that's a typical symptom of the brass pressed in "check" valve rubber discs that do not come with the carb kits. I've just removed and the only downside is you have to prime the engine a little more before it runs right.
I have also came across carburetors that cleaning and new kit did "not" fix it. New carburetor did the trick. I would like to know exactly what it is that is changing about the carburetor that causes this. I also agree. It's worth doing what one can to find and use ethanol-free fuel.
Very good explained video as always. I noticed one thing. When I screw a screw in to the plastic, I try to go to the left s few turns slowly to find the start of the original thread. Then I go to right and thighten the screw. :) You have a very good teaching ability. Thanks for sharing your knowledges. .
Yep I agree donyboy even on my own equipment for my company i have almost quit rebuilding the carburetors and just replace them now days. Thanks for sharing. Hope you wife is doing well. Have a great weekend!!!
Thanks, the one video that seems to address my problem with a Stihl 251 that is not that old. I was about to throw it off into the woods one day and then the next time I ran it was fine but now back to bog city until good and hot. Many videos say it's the spark arrestor but mine was clean.
I just got 2 saws from recycle center CS 340 and 440 . Got to run I believe it is the carbs. Run high speed then shuts off . So order to carbs. Looking at carbs seemed to come or they preset at factory cause got plastic around the setting . Great job on your videos'.
Hi Donny. I live in Canada too and am a BC boy. I know that you can purchase NO Ethanol fuel from Chainsaw dealers in the small cans- but where can you purchase Ethanol free fuel at a gas station( which gas station?) I found out that Ethanol in fuel binds with water from using ethanol testing kits. I wanted to obtain pure fuel, so by using a separator funnel with a drain cock on the bottom, I can purchase any ethanol fuel and pour it into the funnel, then add water to the fuel and mix well. ( seems counter-intuitive but its not) The ethanol and water will then bind together and separate completely from the fuel and collect on the bottom. You will clearly see two distinct layers in the funnel. The pure fuel is the top layer, and the water-ethanol mixture will be the bottom layer. You then simply open up the drain cock and drain away the water-fuel mixture. You are then left with the pure fuel which you can then mix with two-stroke oil and then use in your two-stoke engines without fear of having to deal with deposits and gummed-up carburetors. As you can probably imagine, even though this technique is excellent in removing the unwanted ethanol ( which i save for other uses-like cleaning) it is time consuming. I would love to hear if you have discovered any gas station that sells ethanol-free gas as i have discovered even premium gas sometimes contains ethanol as well! I love your channel. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and expertise with all of us. It is much appreciated!!
I bought an aftermarket carb for my MS 250 and didn't have to adjust it either,...I also bought one for an 017and the same,..Incidentally, I now use only marine gas with no ethanol, the gas hoses from the tank broke down and began leaking from the ethanol, and the diaphragm became brittle, I hope the marine gas with no ethanol will keep it running,..
Smashing repair, just like new again :-D. Have you ever taken one of those compact carbs distructively apart to see where it gets blocked?, my nosey side would have to know, if it was mine lol :-D.
I have the same saw I replaced the carb started it up ran OK then shut off and wouldn't start again. Seemed like it wasn't getting good spark checked that and it didn't look like a good spark. I noticed that the yellow wire under the spark plug wire was a little Bear wire wrapped it with electrical tape it started but when it gets warm it stops, wondering if the coil could be bad. Hope to hear back from you. Michael in Jamaica
I wish it were possible to get the powers that be to allow us access to ethanol-free fuel at 10% above the cost of that ethanol laced poison (er..fuel.) I'm fortunate because I live in an area where 100% fuel is readily available, even if the cost is about 20% higher than that 10% ethanol junk. Thanks Don!!
thanks for showing us your solution, ive had exactly the same problem ive put 2 sets of carb replacement bits and still bogs, so ive bought a cheap carb kit, and will replace the carb ,but ! what do you think the real problem is it cant be worn out my original carb its been little used its only been used on and of for small bits nothing commercial ive had it a long time but little used. whats the prognosis on a carb that wont work even tho youve put carb kits in it to no avail ?
Love your videos! I have this exact saw and have an issue with the choke mechanism - it doesnt move correctly - like some linkages are worn but no wear is obvious .... have you seen anything like this before?
I repaired 4 chain saws of this kind (181,211,231) with this behavior ,and i simply adjusted the needle valves and the chain saws run properly .I did not expect to go well but it seems to be a fabrication defect ,because all the chain saws are new
I need the green accordion fuel delivery line for this model saw. Can’t find them anywhere. If anyone has a part number PLEASE POST IT. Great instructional video here.
donyboy i need your help i have a stihl ms171 when i fuel it the gas goes right out thru the breath line.Any idea what should i do to fix the problem or what it causes to do that? thank you
small eng mech since 1984 -i've never bought a carb unless it was butchered you must have missed the problem somewhere (pull welsh plugs ) the body of the carb must still be good maybe i am old school but i was taught to fix not replace ( unless not practicable) (or take it as a personal challenge )
I heard check the muffler first just the other day.. and u know what.. my ms311 was bogging.. losing power... thrn it died and wouldn't start.. I assumed it was the carb. Bought a carb kit put it in.. still wont start.. remembered to check the muffler.. pulled the screen.. plugged.. with it out I pulled the cord, fired right up...
It actually isn't a two barrel carb. One of the openings is for air only. It is a technology developed ("stratified") so these new saws will meet EPA rules. I steer clear of them in my carving business.
I have started using ethanol-free gas for all small engines. Sure, it's over $5 per gallon, but hopefully this will gradually trend me away from all the small engine issues I've had with trimmers, leaf blowers, chain saws, lawn mower. There are 2 or 3 gas stations in our area that sell ethanol-free. Plus it eliminates hassle of having to mix in ethanol conditioner.
Do you think the reason that the carb you rebuilt would not run is because internal non-serviceable check valves inside the carb have been damaged by ethanol?
Don, do you ever [or often] tell your customers to throw away the old gas that they have? If you rebuild the carb and the customer uses old gas, there is a good possibility that it's the gas that's causing the problem. I've seen this happen more than once. A glass Mason jar is my friend when emptying a fuel tank. It's like Sherlock Holmes magnifying glass when looking for solutions.
Did you adjust the fuel metering lever inside the carburetor? I've had this same exact problem with 2 MS 170s and in both cases a small adjustment to the fuel metering lever solved the problem
Mid use, My MS211 started bogging and hesitating, so I topped it off with new Sthil pre-mixed gas, (didn't fix it) then I replaced the air filter (didn't fix it), Then I replaced the spark plug and it still bogged; I watched this video and ordered a new carb from my Sthil dealer, just installed that, and it's still bogging. (I've tried tuning the new carb also) Any ideas what else I should check or try before I take it in?
Greeting Don, i dont know how to reach you elswhere that under this video. I have a old Jonsered 630 with a 24in bar on it and she run well when she starts but become rapidely ustable. She idle fine but bog down after high rev or after cutting a big tree, when the engine slow down she die. I have to maintaint it rev a bit with few quick throttle push to stop the dying and she idle fine after that. Impossible to adjust correctly the carb cause that always change the throttle response or the idling speed. What do you think ? Bad carburetor ? Crank shaft seal leak ? Thank you !
the STIHL chain bar has no up or down... reverse it when it begins to wear so that it wears evenly on both long edges. Easy to do and may save some cost and annoyance.
Whether the OEM carb needs adjusting depends upon how much wear is in the motor (i.e. how much compression does it have?). The reason why a rekitted carb may cause an engine to bog down is either due to an air leak within/from the body of the carb,such as the gasket sealing surface may be warped or pitted or the check valve for the main jet may not be closing off therefore causing air to get sucked into the body of the carb so replacing the main jet 1 way check valve may help in an OEM carb. I wouldn't rely on it in some of the aftermarket carbs as I bought 1 from a seller in Australia where it was "glued" together with Loctite & the fuel just ate it therefore caused air leaks around the check valve. But I've had no trouble with a $16 Chinese carb or a $30 aftermarket one which I bought from another seller within Australia. It's like I've had trouble with a couple of fuel pressure regulators in my car where it is submersed in E10 fuel all the time. If I keep having trouble, I'll either fit 1 externally underneath the car or chase up a flex fuel type of in tank pressure regulator.
Had the same problem with a new MS211 a number of years ago. I been using non Ethanol 92 for years since it was only a mile away for the gas. So it was not the gas. Dealer could never get my MS211 running right. He never did try a new carb. Makes me wonder. I traded it in at a loss.
Hi Dony, my Makita 3201 chainsaw had a scored piston so I replaced that. Replaced the the carb gaskets and pump. I have spark, but nothing works. Not even a hint that it would start. Do you reckon it’s worth looking at the flywheel as I’ve seen videos about timing. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Stay safe 👍
Hello Dony ...I have got a Poulan chain saw that has got no information about the MODEL NUMBER ...it has got no primary and the bottom body is green and top cover black ....I wonder if you are able to give me some information Thank you Tony .
Donnie I have a Stihl FS 45 will not start change carburetor change coil but when I pull it it just backfires through the carb or through the exhaust will not start at all any ideas I have checked the spark arrestor that's clean thanks
Wow, what a funny looking carb, with that apparently extra butterfly at the top as the throttle! Is the bottom part just the choke then? (And presumably there are fuel jets in both Venturi?) That's a zama carb model number but looking it up online just showed a "normal looking" one without the top butterfly unless I searched for ms211 too - go figure! Thanks for the nice video!
Hi buddy Working on an 038 which starts easy runs and throttle response is good, but it bogs down and stalls when trying to cut so on load. Do you think it’s a straightforward carb swap? I’ve checked exhaust, fuel, filters spark plugs etc
hello donyboy73 can you help me i have a stihl 024 and it does the same but chainsaw is 30+ years old it starts runs for 1 minute and than bogs and stops working spark ok compression ok than clean carb and the card is full with gass what can be the solution to fix it greetz from belgium and thanks
awesome, you could really pull your hair out if you put a carb kit in and it is still bogging out...wondering what the heck the problem is.... great video
Everybody be sure to give DonyBoy73 upvotes and subscriptions. He is a better teacher than most making small engine videos. Sadly, I have been watching videos for the last 3 years after getting a Stihl Chain Saw but now, 3 years later, is the first time that I have seen one of DonyBoy73's videos on Small Engine Repair. These are wonderful videos. (DonyBoy73, you are one powerful video journalist!!! )
That video was amazing. Perfect tempo, amount of detail and clear instructions.
Thank you!
As a guy who’s trying to learn as I go I want to say thank you. My saw was running awful if at all. Watched this and was able to clean my carb. Didn’t need a replace but runs like new now and saved the $120 the shop wanted to charge.
I had the same model with the same symptoms. After removing the hood, I carefully washed what was accessible with a brush soaked in gasoline. I dismantled the spark plug, which was clean, the air filter which I soaked in water and soap, and then the carburetor, following your instructions, all the way to the diaphragms. I had previously searched for this part, and it was available on Amazon Prime, just in case.
I heated the carburetor parts in bleach water until it boiled, for about ten minutes. After rinsing these parts with water, I soaked them in gasoline and reassembled them in reverse order. Everything fits back easily following your instructions.
And the machine started right away.
Thank you.
Excellent tutorial. Saved me some money and time. Just replaced the carb on my stihl MS181C using this video as a guide. The old carb was bogging so I decided to bite the bullet and order a new carb from eBay. Anyway, replaced it and finally fired up the chainsaw after alot of attempts and now it runs like new again. Had to slightly adjust the idle but that was simple. 👍🏻
Great no nonsense and to the point video. I wanted to remove the carb and this video showed me what to do. Thanks.
Great "Common Sense" video. My neighbor just brought me 4 of his saws that would not start. He does use Ethanol-based fuel. I have tried in the past to get him to switch to 0% Ethanol, with no success. Anyways, I found aftermarket Carbs for all 4 saws. They were as cheap as a Carb rebuild kit, so I Decided to replace all Carbs. they now run like new!
Stihl made in china is shit
I tried that route with my stihl ms 250 and has issues right out of the box with the aftermarket carb. Would not adjust I could turn the screws in and out and nothing, saw idled at 1/4 throttle which I did not like. Took the aftermarket carb back out picked up a bottle of seafoam took the OEM carb apart and let the carb sit in seafoam overnight, put it all back together the next day 2 pulls saw fired up and was back to normal. Sometimes aftermarket parts work sometimes they don't I guess I just got a bad carb
Luck of the draw but I got a aftermarket carb and it runs and starts beautifully.
Lucas Desjardins
Ooo
Don,
I contacted the "Chainsaw Guy" from Myrtle Creek saw shop down in Oregon & he gave me the same advice when fixing a stihl weedeater, he recommended replacing the carb vs. rebuilding it. Great advice when fixing someone else's stuff.
You are a credit to us tryer doer's ive just rebuilt my stihl 041 76 saw bolt for bolt and full carb rebuild ive watched your videos so much i no each and every part now on my saw and i am currently rebuilding me stihl ms211c top end and very deep clean thank you for sharing your content and keep up the good work from ireland
Great video Don. I can't stress enough to friends, family and anyone actually, that Ethanol fuels are the bane of small engine issues. Everything from my lawnmower, weed whacker, snow blower and chainsaw have never seen Ethanol fuels. And guess what? Everyone of them start and run like a champ! Obviously there is a little routine maintenance that needs to be done from time to time, but using the right fuel makes these small engines last so much longer. For example, my poor neighbor pulls his guts out trying to start his weed whacker because of crappy Ethanol fuel(and possibly due to a spark arrestor issue, which is likely a crappy fuel cause), yet he is amazed that I prime mine 3x, and one-two pulls every time and it runs like a raped ape!!
Thanks again Dony, and I like how you list the actual part numbers you use, that helps out DIY'ers like myself! Much appreciated! Keep up the good content.
I swear by e0 fuels, my 40 year old echo cs-302 starts in 3 pulls no problem, I will never go back to the crappy fuel.
Zed 80, when I first got my Stihl chainsaws a few years ago, I saw videos about the stuff in standard fuels like Paraffin and so forth. I immediately began buying the Ethanol Free Gas for all my equipment.
I have watched quite a few of your self-help videos, and they are the best or of the best videos on the internet! Great, clear verbal explanations, steady camera angles and just all-around excellent videos. Thank you very much! Great Job.👍
thanks Elizabeth!
I have owned this saw for a few years now and it is my go to small wood saw. Lots of power and very capable in most woods. I have never had a regret buying this one.
Exactly what my chainsaw does. Thanks for giving my echo life again
I have the same issue with a stihl leaf blower. Once I get it started I have to let it run for a couple of minutes to warm up. Then it seems to work okay. If I don't let it warm up, as soon as I pull the trigger it bogs. Always like your videos Don. Good job!
All i can say is thanks i was working on one and forgot how the throttle linkage was hooked up and got a good view from the video
Really clear video now I feel confident I can do it now. Keep up the excellent work you are my fav TH-camr 👍🏻👍🏼
Thanks for your video I'm no mechanic and been having the same issues with my MS 211. I've taken into the shop several times and they just De Carb it and or when I bring it in it runs fine for them but when I'm out in the field it's hit or miss with the saw actually working. I was considering buying a more commercial saw today but think I will order a new carburetor since it looked very simple and no adjusting a Stihl carburetor. Thanks again for your help.
Thanks Dony, another very informative video, thanks mate.
cheers from down under
Ethanol hardens the diaphragm and causes problems. Mixed bag of results on China carbs vs. Zama. Good video.
My ms170 does the same thing but not as bad. Sometimes it does great. Other times not so much. Carb is brand new looking and super clean. Thanks for the video.
Sad hear about the carburetors (and fuel) of today. Thanks for sharing your experience. Nice work with that saw, Don !
YEAH ME TOO, SO MUCH FOR THE BS WITH THE GOING GREEN MOVEMENT.!!
I had another cause of bogging out that I’ve fixed. I accidently
used chain oil in the fuel instead of T2 engine oil. The engine run at idle but
bogged out at high revs. When I put the right fuel in it was OK. I went through
all of the cleaning and adjusting processes it was only when I tried a new mix
of fuel that I realised the fuel in the tank was yellow, the only T2 oil that I
have is pink but both bottles are black and look the same. All the best . . . Andy
Great video! One thing I think you failed to mention is that the limiters are not seated on a new carburetor, it’s always a good idea to push them in that way they can’t lean them out causing engine damage.
Very useful thanks, helped me replace the carb on my MS211
Thanks for this video! I managed to take away and clean the carburator by seeing this video. Now it runs great again. :)
Don, that's a typical symptom of the brass pressed in "check" valve rubber discs that do not come with the carb kits. I've just removed and the only downside is you have to prime the engine a little more before it runs right.
I have also came across carburetors that cleaning and new kit did "not" fix it. New carburetor did the trick. I would like to know exactly what it is that is changing about the carburetor that causes this. I also agree. It's worth doing what one can to find and use ethanol-free fuel.
Very good explained video as always. I noticed one thing. When I screw a screw in to the plastic, I try to go to the left s few turns slowly to find the start of the original thread. Then I go to right and thighten the screw. :)
You have a very good teaching ability.
Thanks for sharing your knowledges. .
Yep I agree donyboy even on my own equipment for my company i have almost quit rebuilding the carburetors and just replace them now days. Thanks for sharing. Hope you wife is doing well. Have a great weekend!!!
Thanks, the one video that seems to address my problem with a Stihl 251 that is not that old. I was about to throw it off into the woods one day and then the next time I ran it was fine but now back to bog city until good and hot. Many videos say it's the spark arrestor but mine was clean.
Hey Don don't forget about the Small Engines Q & A Videos. Haven't seen one in awhile, I enjoyed watching them.
Just seen this video. I have 2 saws that bog. They are easy to start idle great but they bog whenever you try and rev them up
Thank you very informative. I'll price the carburetor before getting the kit.
MS 211 is nice little saw but I read many comments about commonly occurring leaky oil hose. I hope they fixed it by now.
I've had mine for 4 years no leaks. MS 211.
I never change carburator and you just gave me good advice
Your videos are very therapeutic in a sense
I agree we dont do much of carb rebuilds anymore just replace the carb it save you in the long run
I just got 2 saws from recycle center CS 340 and 440 . Got to run I believe it is the carbs. Run high speed then shuts off . So order to carbs. Looking at carbs seemed to come or they preset at factory cause got plastic around the setting . Great job on your videos'.
That saw is now a little beast. Well done!
I will definitly lisent your advices for my stihl equpiment that i have
Good Video with good pics & editing. thanks.
I appreciate the way you explain in detail all your video. Thank you very much!
Hi Donny.
I live in Canada too and am a BC boy.
I know that you can purchase NO Ethanol fuel from Chainsaw dealers in the small cans- but where can you purchase Ethanol free fuel at a gas station( which gas station?)
I found out that Ethanol in fuel binds with water from using ethanol testing kits.
I wanted to obtain pure fuel, so by using a separator funnel with a drain cock on the bottom, I can purchase any ethanol fuel and pour it into the funnel, then add water to the fuel and mix well. ( seems counter-intuitive but its not)
The ethanol and water will then bind together and separate completely from the fuel and collect on the bottom.
You will clearly see two distinct layers in the funnel. The pure fuel is the top layer, and the water-ethanol mixture will be the bottom layer.
You then simply open up the drain cock and drain away the water-fuel mixture.
You are then left with the pure fuel which you can then mix with two-stroke oil and then use in your two-stoke engines without fear of having to deal with deposits and gummed-up carburetors.
As you can probably imagine, even though this technique is excellent in removing the unwanted ethanol ( which i save for other uses-like cleaning) it is time consuming.
I would love to hear if you have discovered any gas station that sells ethanol-free gas as i have discovered even premium gas sometimes contains ethanol as well!
I love your channel.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and expertise with all of us. It is much appreciated!!
Canadian tire premium and shell premium have no ethanol
donyboy73 Thank you.
I started to buy Ethanol free gas for my 2 cycle machines. It is mid-grade gas, with a premium price. It has a blue handle at the pump.
Spot on job as usual !!!.
I bought an aftermarket carb for my MS 250 and didn't have to adjust it either,...I also bought one for an 017and the same,..Incidentally, I now use only marine gas with no ethanol, the gas hoses from the tank broke down and began leaking from the ethanol, and the diaphragm became brittle, I hope the marine gas with no ethanol will keep it running,..
Thanks Dony, that gives me an idea for my strimmer. It bogs since a while and hard to start. I'm going to try the carb.
Smashing repair, just like new again :-D.
Have you ever taken one of those compact carbs distructively apart to see where it gets blocked?, my nosey side would have to know, if it was mine lol :-D.
I like the looks of the stihl saws.
Another great video. Thanks for sharing
Awesome video and all the helpful hints along the way to make it easier.
Glad it was helpful!
I have the same saw I replaced the carb started it up ran OK then shut off and wouldn't start again. Seemed like it wasn't getting good spark checked that and it didn't look like a good spark. I noticed that the yellow wire under the spark plug wire was a little Bear wire wrapped it with electrical tape it started but when it gets warm it stops, wondering if the coil could be bad. Hope to hear back from you. Michael in Jamaica
I wish it were possible to get the powers that be to allow us access to ethanol-free fuel at 10% above the cost of that ethanol laced poison (er..fuel.) I'm fortunate because I live in an area where 100% fuel is readily available, even if the cost is about 20% higher than that 10% ethanol junk. Thanks Don!!
thanks for showing us your solution, ive had exactly the same problem ive put 2 sets of carb replacement bits and still bogs, so ive bought a cheap carb kit, and will replace the carb ,but ! what do you think the real problem is it cant be worn out my original carb its been little used its only been used on and of for small bits nothing commercial ive had it a long time but little used. whats the prognosis on a carb that wont work even tho youve put carb kits in it to no avail ?
Love your videos! I have this exact saw and have an issue with the choke mechanism - it doesnt move correctly - like some linkages are worn but no wear is obvious .... have you seen anything like this before?
I repaired 4 chain saws of this kind (181,211,231) with this behavior ,and i simply adjusted the needle valves and the chain saws run properly .I did not expect to go well but it seems to be a fabrication defect ,because all the chain saws are new
Thats because your a professional and the dude who made this video is a rookie! Fact
@@campnoutdoors1621 It just happend to work -the truble was the carburator to another did not work the same trik .
Eminent! Splendid! Brilliant! Excellent! - Thank you.
I need the green accordion fuel delivery line for this model saw. Can’t find them anywhere. If anyone has a part number PLEASE POST IT. Great instructional video here.
donyboy i need your help i have a stihl ms171 when i fuel it the gas goes right out thru the breath line.Any idea what should i do to fix the problem or what it causes to do that? thank you
Very well explained
Great video Dony! Thanks bud!
Did you check the spark arrester screen? That sounded like a classic blocked screen
small eng mech since 1984 -i've never bought a carb unless it was butchered
you must have missed the problem somewhere (pull welsh plugs )
the body of the carb must still be good
maybe i am old school but i was taught to fix not replace ( unless not practicable)
(or take it as a personal challenge )
you must have been out of the industry for a while, things are different ow and forced upon us by manufacturers
try turning out L & H screws slightly, that may do the trick
Did you try to adj. the carb., before you replaced it? You should have showed us viewers how it was determined to be defective.
I heard check the muffler first just the other day.. and u know what.. my ms311 was bogging.. losing power... thrn it died and wouldn't start.. I assumed it was the carb. Bought a carb kit put it in.. still wont start.. remembered to check the muffler.. pulled the screen.. plugged.. with it out I pulled the cord, fired right up...
Thanks Donny
Interesting to see a double barrel carb that small. I’ve never came across one yet, do other companies use that style of carb?
It actually isn't a two barrel carb. One of the openings is for air only. It is a technology developed ("stratified") so these new saws will meet EPA rules. I steer clear of them in my carving business.
Darren Smith ahh ok, good to know. Definitely not a fan of these “enviro friendly” carbs one bit.
I have started using ethanol-free gas for all small engines. Sure, it's over $5 per gallon, but hopefully this will gradually trend me away from all the small engine issues I've had with trimmers, leaf blowers, chain saws, lawn mower. There are 2 or 3 gas stations in our area that sell ethanol-free. Plus it eliminates hassle of having to mix in ethanol conditioner.
Real gas will save you money
Awesome video thanks for sharing
Do you think the reason that the carb you rebuilt would not run is because internal non-serviceable check valves inside the carb have been damaged by ethanol?
quite possibly
What do you think the problem is with the rebuilt card? You replaced all the parts, so what gives?
Don, do you ever [or often] tell your customers to throw away the old gas that they have?
If you rebuild the carb and the customer uses old gas, there is a good possibility that it's the gas that's causing the problem.
I've seen this happen more than once.
A glass Mason jar is my friend when emptying a fuel tank. It's like Sherlock Holmes magnifying glass when looking for solutions.
Did you adjust the fuel metering lever inside the carburetor? I've had this same exact problem with 2 MS 170s and in both cases a small adjustment to the fuel metering lever solved the problem
Is it possible to repalce the nylon adjusting screws on a carburetor?
Mid use, My MS211 started bogging and hesitating, so I topped it off with new Sthil pre-mixed gas, (didn't fix it) then I replaced the air filter (didn't fix it), Then I replaced the spark plug and it still bogged; I watched this video and ordered a new carb from my Sthil dealer, just installed that, and it's still bogging. (I've tried tuning the new carb also)
Any ideas what else I should check or try before I take it in?
i have exactly the same problem. i ordered a replacement.
Greeting Don, i dont know how to reach you elswhere that under this video.
I have a old Jonsered 630 with a 24in bar on it and she run well when she starts but become rapidely ustable. She idle fine but bog down after high rev or after cutting a big tree, when the engine slow down she die. I have to maintaint it rev a bit with few quick throttle push to stop the dying and she idle fine after that.
Impossible to adjust correctly the carb cause that always change the throttle response or the idling speed.
What do you think ? Bad carburetor ? Crank shaft seal leak ?
Thank you !
thank you very much for making the videos
Good advice.
the STIHL chain bar has no up or down... reverse it when it begins to wear so that it wears evenly on both long edges. Easy to do and may save some cost and annoyance.
Whether the OEM carb needs adjusting depends upon how much wear is in the motor (i.e. how much compression does it have?).
The reason why a rekitted carb may cause an engine to bog down is either due to an air leak within/from the body of the carb,such as the gasket sealing surface may be warped or pitted or the check valve for the main jet may not be closing off therefore causing air to get sucked into the body of the carb so replacing the main jet 1 way check valve may help in an OEM carb.
I wouldn't rely on it in some of the aftermarket carbs as I bought 1 from a seller in Australia where it was "glued" together with Loctite & the fuel just ate it therefore caused air leaks around the check valve.
But I've had no trouble with a $16 Chinese carb or a $30 aftermarket one which I bought from another seller within Australia.
It's like I've had trouble with a couple of fuel pressure regulators in my car where it is submersed in E10 fuel all the time.
If I keep having trouble, I'll either fit 1 externally underneath the car or chase up a flex fuel type of in tank pressure regulator.
good job , thanks
I have a Stihl 291. I only run Premium non oxygenated fuel. I don't believe that's going to cause carb problems
Great video as all ways.👍👍👍👍
How do you charge your customer? Do you charge them for all the time you spent testing, diagnosing, and rebuilding of the carb? I.e. time spent?
Had the same problem with a new MS211 a number of years ago. I been using non Ethanol 92 for years since it was only a mile away for the gas. So it was not the gas. Dealer could never get my MS211 running right. He never did try a new carb. Makes me wonder. I traded it in at a loss.
i have the same problem husqvarna 236 thank's
Through the magic of the internet, we know you've been painting....thumbs up!
Hi Dony, my Makita 3201 chainsaw had a scored piston so I replaced that. Replaced the the carb gaskets and pump. I have spark, but nothing works. Not even a hint that it would start. Do you reckon it’s worth looking at the flywheel as I’ve seen videos about timing. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Stay safe 👍
Hello Dony ...I have got a Poulan chain saw that has got no information about the
MODEL NUMBER ...it has got no primary and the bottom body is green and top
cover black ....I wonder if you are able to give me some information Thank you Tony .
I have the MS211 and agree it's very peppy.
similar to this th-cam.com/video/XclI6u_xAAs/w-d-xo.html
I make good videos. Very helpful. I have a echo cs-400 i want to change the carburetor. Do you have a video on it.
What/why are there two butterfly valves? Is it a dual throat carb like on a car? Seems like overkill on a small engine like this.
RichE
There's a reply down below with the answer from "laverdafan"
Donnie I have a Stihl FS 45 will not start change carburetor change coil but when I pull it it just backfires through the carb or through the exhaust will not start at all any ideas I have checked the spark arrestor that's clean thanks
Thanks for the video.
Wow, what a funny looking carb, with that apparently extra butterfly at the top as the throttle! Is the bottom part just the choke then? (And presumably there are fuel jets in both Venturi?) That's a zama carb model number but looking it up online just showed a "normal looking" one without the top butterfly unless I searched for ms211 too - go figure! Thanks for the nice video!
Hi buddy
Working on an 038 which starts easy runs and throttle response is good, but it bogs down and stalls when trying to cut so on load.
Do you think it’s a straightforward carb swap? I’ve checked exhaust, fuel, filters spark plugs etc
hello donyboy73 can you help me i have a stihl 024 and it does the same but chainsaw is 30+ years old it starts runs for 1 minute and than bogs and stops working spark ok compression ok than clean carb and the card is full with gass what can be the solution to fix it greetz from belgium and thanks
awesome, you could really pull your hair out if you put a carb kit in and it is still bogging out...wondering what the heck the problem is.... great video
Hi what spanners/torx do you need for stihl chainsaws altogether?