10:48 Tinning is one of those topics where people can not reach a consensus. Not tinning has the disadvantages you mentioned. Tinning makes the conductor more brittle, especially at the location where it suddenly changes from tinned to not tinned. So they can break under stress, where stranded wires would not. And if they're Wago 221s, they basically do not care what you stuff inside. Stranded, single solid core, tinned, crimp tips, you name it.
Tinning or soldering the ends of electrical wire will help keep the corrosion from forming on the surface of bare copper wire which will increase resistance in a junction and will lead to voltage drops and an increase in heat in the wire. It also prevents the wire ends from having loose strands sticking out that can short out to an adjacent terminal. It can also add a softer layer on the wire into which a tightened screw or a pressure tang can get a better grip on the wire and hold the connection better (as you found out)! Oddly enough that is NOT required by our ABYC as a regulation for boat wiring like requiring only stranded wire is, but it should be and makes perfect sense. Following legal codes in marine construction may be a requirement in some countries for insurance companies to cover your boat.
Hi Mads, a piece of advise... Raise the boom before you keep on working on the rigging or sails. It should never be able to hit you on your head and it will not give you space for the bimini/top where it is now. You look SO happy with Athena in the water! Cheers. :-)
nothing beats wago. I've tried sugar cube terminals, screw on terminals, crimp terminals, solder, bus bars, the works. Permanent or temporary, if you can use wago then use wago. They have their limits but the same clamp works with both tiny and real thick gauge wire, they are rated for loads of amps, ac and dc and you can make the most compact plus and minus busses with the large ones - great behind cramped instrument panels. There is no other connector that will get the job done without at least some swearing.
Cut the 'barrel' off of a crimp connector and remove the insulation. Crimp it onto the end of your wire and then you'll have enough metal to tighten the screws on. Moving up to the proper 32 amp wire and plug may solve that problem...For the 'un-tinned' wires, get a tube of 'Di-electric Grease' and squeeze some into each connection. It will exclude moisture and oxygen, preventing corrosion...
Mads, I think what you did there by folding over then end of the wire is standard practice. When I fit out my shed recently my electrician did this to every spot the wires got clamped down. First he would strip off more than he needed, then twist the wire to introduce a tight spiral, cut to about 20mm then fold in half
Mads I know you always carefully check your sources, so I can be wrong.., When fitting a plug to the mains cable you better use cable end crimps (ferrules) on the wire ends when screwing them in the plug. This gives you a more secure connection ( risk of overheating or fire) Don’t solder the wire ends when clamping them down with a screw.
mads, love your videos. you are one hard working dude. i can not believe athena has been out of the water for 4 and a half years. time flies when you are having fun. really grateful for all your hard work and sharing this experience with us. we live vicariously thru your. #gratitude
For 32A hook up supply you should have at least 2.5mm 3 core cable. Also the blue plug is for 240v, yellow for 110v, red for 3phaze 415v and neutral; or it was when I was an electrician and I'm sure that hasn't changed. You can always get the US plug and swap over when you get there, as you will be there for a while.
Hi Mad's us again..... 😉 Oh No! 😁😁 As always it is your boat do what you like. 😁 However, we would concentrate on the IP rating and the Amp rating of the shore power supply. IP44 is the minimum you should want for shore power connectors. From the shore to the boat; Male plug IP44 (blue) to 2.5mm■ stranded cable @ Circa 25 Mtrs.(EU directive says this cable must be highly visableble). IE Blue, Orange or even Yellow). Female socket with sprung cap. IP 44 (Blue). To boat inlet male, with sprung cap to IP44. Again Blue coloured. This can be surface or flush mounted. The flush mounted ones have a cover flap and an interlock on the female socket preventing disconnection without the interlock being used. Male sockets available from £4.50, 2.5mm■ Cable of 25 Mtrs £30. Female capped sockets £6.50. Flush mounted inlet male £25. We can send you links to these if it's helpful? One more thing (Oh no! 😄) If your going to use a 32 Amp rated shore power lead. All the connections and cable to the onboard breakers must be 32 Amp rated. Otherwise you potentially have a weak link in the shore power that is not protected by breakers after the hook up point. Over these distances 32 Amp rated would be 4mm ■ Again over rate your cable! As your such a good egg, and an inspiration to thousands we would be happy to draw this up for you with all the calc's part numbers and suppliers links etc. If it would be of use? Hope this helps. Sail Safe mate. Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.
Regarding tinning the ends of wires going into connectors: I don't/wouldn't tin (solder) the ends of cables going into connectors with set screws because the solder can flow over time and cause a loose connection. The Wago's shouldn't be a problem since they are spring loaded. And that $72 connector was designed to use ferrels on the wires before insertion. I think you made a wise move purchasing a prebuilt cable--I expect you'll find the weatherproofing to be superior.
For $71, you should use ferrules over the wires to make a tight pressure connection with the set screws. They make a better connection that not get loose and increase your chance of hot connections and a fire. Set screw connections do not mate well with finely stranded wire. Worrying about Voltage drop with LED lamps? You must be using too small of a wire. LOL But soldering your wires is a good precaution.
As an electrician, I commend your choice of control of fixtures. Never understand why people working on dark interiors don’t use low voltage cable systems . So easy to set up and use temporarily
Soldering the ends of the wires are actually a really really good idea I’ve worked in the aeronautical industry for many many years and we do the same process ....
Dear Mads, trust you are well, or if not, recovering. No doubt lots of folks out here missed your vlog this week (which is not a problem) but hope you are ok in these difficult times.
We use that plug in England for 110 volt, blue ones are £6.72 on eBay UK Search 240 Volt 32 Amp Blue Electrical Industrial Male Plug. You can buy ready made leads, female outlets, doubles etc.
Some LEDs, often cheap ones made for cars, emit radio energy as an unintended by product. This might impact your GPS and VHF radio. You might want to confirm the bi=ulbs you bought don't impact your radio receivers. A dimmer might also do that - worth a check.
at this point, i feel it is safe to say that you can no longer introduce these videos aboard, "good old Athena." its time to start them with, "spiffy NEW Athena." go ahead, you've more than earned it. so has she.
Just noticed the comment about using ferrules, but in a marine environment the copper needs to be tinned. I've seen some horrendous problems with corroded copper wire, so 10/10 from me! The Wago style of connectors work brilliantly, there is always pressure on the connection so nothing works loose. Result! Lights look fab, I'm not a lover of dimmers and, to me, switching sections of lighting would give a better result and be more reliable in the long run. Those dimmer switches are notoriously problematic. Great video, you really are on the downhill slope now! Just another update - Zano controls will have a dimmer switch that won't introduce flicker...
I would not worry about the straight copper pigtails on the lights getting corroded (green) and overheating. It requires significantly more power through those wires than you are putting through them to cause any amount of heat being generated by them. In my experience, that only happens when the power through the appliance from which they come exceeds 100 watts for 12 gauge wire. You are only putting about 10 watts through yours and you should be OK. BTW: Love watching you put such good thought into what you are doing. I am also a sailor, although we bought a plane instead of a boat, when I retired. My difference from you is that, whenever we charter a boat, I am always fixing something. I don't have to do that with the airplane - I am not licensed to maintain it. ;)
Solder well done is your best friend. Once upon a time I was an installer for Princess Cruise Lines. Ferules work great on land where salt air is not an issue. They are horrible for boats. When you use solder you should still inspect the wiring regularly on a schedule. Everything electrical becomes suspect over time, and will eventually fail. The union of dis-similar metals has been discussed before, and it still applies. Humid salty air makes the corrosion problem much worse over time. That said I have tried every kind of connection known to man including epoxy, and some fancier stuff. Nothing works perfectly. But solder is the best bang for the buck solution by far. You may find that directly soldering wire to wire is a better solution in the long run, but I have not tried those specific connectors myself. Best wishes. Solder might also help with the shore power plug if you come up against that same issue some time in the future with the right sized plug. What you might think of as overkill on a boat's electrical system seldom amounts to that in the long run. The extra capacity prevents corrosion and bad connections from ruining your day. It is also a good idea to reduce the number of types of wire / connectors to make things swapable and make spares manageable. BTW if you want to try Ferules get the crimper with 6 sided jaws. There are 4 sided ones, but screw terminals dont hold onto those well, and they dont fit into round terminals of the right size. The Ferule itself doesnt change, just the crimper. And yeah the 6 sided crimpers with compression calibration are a lot more money.
Hello from Slovenia I desperately wait for your upload every Sunday and now that the boats are so close together please make longer videos Waiting 7days for 15min sucks 😊 By the way love your work an videos Stay safe
Mads don't beat yourself up so much about mistakes you have so many details and everything is getting closer to the deadline . So your only human like the rest of us . Don't worry you are doing much better then 99.99 % of the other DYI channels out there !!
Now is the time to test your LED dimmer for RFI. With a handeld radio below, and with a conventional antenna up the mast. If the one LED does not match in colors, contact the maker. White LEDs often come off one product line, and at extra cost they are tested and sorted into 9 grades, by color and brightness. If the maker cheaped out and bought unsorted LEDs...all you can do is look for another one.
Hi Mads, I would recommend that you get yourself a selection of Bootlace Ferrules for your future wiring projects. Once crimped into place they are exceedingly sturdy and will vastly reduce the wire slippage you experienced with the shore power plug screws. I used to work in a factory that made lighting for public spaces and prisons, and we had a little electric crucible that heated up blocks of solder, so that we could tin our wire bundles for easier fitment into the connectors, by dipping them in the melted solder. It was useful because it guaranteed an even amount of solder per wire, and reduced the amount that snuck under the sleeve.
Mads, don't worry the wiring. You did fine. Just remember to occasionally check them for corrosion. You do want to break those lights up onto a couple of switches, possibly by areas (galley, settee, and such). You may also want to convert one or two over to either blue or red light for night sailing and have them on a different switch.
Great video Mads. Lighting is really nice for the camera work. Definitely dark outside. I can't believe it has been four years. I remember how exciting it was when you sailed Athena home. Four years flew by. Thank you for four years of wonderful Sunday nights. Take care, stay well and my best to Ava and Jurkil.
Damn Mads, Athena is looking fly! So slick and spiffy. And yes, the stripes do make the boat go faster. I remember when you first sailed her home, and I was so worried you might not make it.
Mads- Looks awesome! PLEASE remember to clean the flux core residue off of the tinned ends; the flux in the solder will cause the wires to corrode over a short time if left in place.
Tinned cables are just exactly what you did. A bit of solder on the end. Previous commenter ılCigno said "conductor end sleeves" Sounds like awesome advice. Soldering increases chances of cables snapping through movement stress. Sailboats even when stationary are not the most movement free things. As with many things it'll work fine until it doesn't. The side effects on a boat may be more serious than non functionality. Looking awesome. Can't believe there was no brass band and champagne for the splash. ;)
I've been following the series since oblix and I just want you to know you're doing an incredible job. The highlight of my week watching. Greetings from Cambridge England!
Double up as you’ve done or a ferrule. Single thickness copper wire isn’t a great way off fitting of a cable. 👍 Oh, and Aviation plugs put Marine stuff to shame price wise - a 32 amp 3 phase outlet a customer required the other week was $780...
lol tinning the ends of wire has been done with solder since they started tinning , the trick is to get the tinned ends past the insulation without melting it and dont over twist it
Only ever tinned wires on the upper deck personally but that was on large ships with ac inside. Always found it easiest to hold the wire to the iron then when it was hot apply the solder to the wire and it would generally be drawn up under the insulation.
Soldering the ends of the wire before putting them in a connection like that is a good idea, you also my have not needed to double it up in that case. Great to see her in the water!
Soldering the wires is perfectly fine Mads. Gives the same effect as tining them, anything to keep the salt water off them. Now that you have easily changeable lights have a look around. In my boat I have LED that are on a switch but each individual light can be turned off just by touching it so I can have any combo in the saloon i want. Don't need extra switches just turn on only the ones you want and dim them at will.
Wago clips work with anything. Big AC wires, automotive wires, tinned or untinned wires as well as solid or braided wires. Even super tiny electronics wires.
Perhaps have the lights switched from each end of the saloon. That way you can turn them on and off from the companion way and also when entering and leaving the forward cabin at night. If you can’t double switch them, one set of lights switched from one end and the others from the other end will mean you don’t have to scramble through the saloon in the dark. Great job.
Wago Wallnuts! Love them! And I am in the USA where they are unobtainium. I think you are wise to “tin” those wires, but I am just a DIY cowboy. Everything is looking super spiffy indeed!
Tinning the act, art, or process of covering or coating anything with melted tin/ If you look at the solder you will see its 70-30 or 60-40 /solder is a metal alloy (usually of lead and tin) It has 5 benefits 1) makes a better connection when soldering electrical connection 2) makes a protective coating over the end of the electrical wire 3) tinned copper conductors prevent accelerated corrosion against wet and contaminated environments. 4) Extends the Life of the Cable 5) has the same electrical connection resistance as bare copper wire.
Started my day with AQUAHOLIC and finished it with Sail Life. I can’t think of a finer day. I am so blessed. I think that Athena looks quite stunning with the all white hull, and no port lites. Such sleek smooth lines. Once you put the toe rail on it might be different, but right now it’s very striking. I do so thoroughly enjoy your work. Thank you so much for your effort
3:10 You need to use Crimp Cord End Terminal. they protect the wire cores from damage by the screw. And it would be nice to use technical petroleum jelly as a hydrophobic filler inside the WAGO terminals.
Dear Mads try this product called No- ox- Id you dip the end of your wire into it then take a cigarette lighter and heat the wire up then the compound wick into the insulation to stop corrosion.
You might consider 1/4 inch plastic sheeting with 2 inch v groove to create a look of a beaded ceiling Creating the grooving is easy with a laminate router I love lying in the bunk and looking up to see it .It will look great with the varnished beams
Frankly it is a great idea to solder and yes eletrical Eng 37yr and there is and will be zero issues especially with the di Ele grease...Mads !!!!! Great work you do your home work Fairwinds from the @captains.chair
Soldering is an excellent idea for stranded cable. Looking forward to following the rewiring! Do also place the dimmer unit in an easy to access place -- they can be very fail prone.
Tinning wire creats a hard spot that can fatigue fail due to vibration that is why it is not done on aircraft or car looms same can happen on boats so not the best thing to do.
Hey Mads, thanks for another great video! You might want to look out for condensation buildup right above the lights though! Since all of the ceiling is insulated, the circles of insulation you removed might leave areas of colder roof to collect condensate and then drip it onto the lights. Might want to watch out for that! Hopefully I'm wrong!
Just an electrical advice 🤩 You must apply cable shoe on the end of the core. The PE ground need to be around 2cm longer dir safety in case the cable is pulled our by force. And at last, the insurer ask for oil and fire resistant cable, mainly the orange type. Further check the phase and neutral is plugged correctly. The plug has some kind of polarization checking electronic in. The red led. Now we start worming 🤮 about the insane Victron price. My ready made 16A 20m cable was 270€ 😢
@@ottopeter340 absolut they take flex and solid cable. Im talking about the shore power connector. Longe PE and cable shoe are required. I’m electrician 🧐
@@thomaspoett868 yes sorry, i just realised that. i was wondering why so many people talk about calbe shoes in wagos without realising they talk about the shore wire cable ( the importand one).
@@ottopeter340 well it’s pretty normal, most first think about the WAGO connectors and they are relatively new. But on plugs in general, most connections I ever saw are without shoes. I think electrical systems are simply as long some basics are taken care of 😌
Mads... great choice on the LED lights! Tinning with solder basically prevents oxidation. Not sure if you need to add anti-galvanic gel to the screw terminals and to the tinned wires. You probably won’t see much of a galvanic redaction for 10-20 years, in my humble opinion.
Tinning is soldering. You should always 'tin' the wire with solder before making a joint. Solder on bullet connectors for that plug (technically pins I suppose).
Tinning wire creats a hard spot that can fatigue fail due to vibration that is why it is not done on aircraft or car looms same can happen on boats so not the best thing to do.
Without fully tined wire, I always solder the ends and try to get a bit to run into the sheath if the wire isn’t to thin. Have you thought about self adhesive graphics for the hull, it could include your logo and as a custom design, would look very spiffy. 😃😃
@@jackpatteeuw9244 I hope it doesn't. Tin tends to flow under pressure, weakening the connection. You definitely want sleeves on the conductors (a.k.a. ferrules). Had to look up the term because English is not my native language... ;-) Edit: best option is probably both sleeves and tin. I also should apologize - tinned != with solder. Obviously, with just a tiny coating of tin on each individual strand, nothing is going to flow. Adding a sleeve is still going to be a good idea, though.
When I was in the military we were taught to add solder to the ends of the wire for protection. Guess what they called it "tinned". I think you are good.
I like your light choice, and I loved your comment that there will be some fitting or something that you need but do not have. Nice to see someone else lives life on those terms. Excellent work! Thanks!
Hi Mads, if you unfold the headliner material and roll it around a cardboard tube like it was originally, the creases will probably disappear over time.
You could use the 3 US$ connectors without any problem since you change all the nuts and screws to stainless steel. I have two on my sailboat since 2001 without issues.
@@jameshansen1256 he said on facebook " Sorry guys! No video this week. I'm sick and wasn't able to finish the video. I hope to see you next Sunday 🙂 Stay safe!"
tinning the ends as you did, is a good idea... (the term "tinning" and "tinned" does come from the root of Tin, the metal, which is a constituent part of solder...) are you going to hold off the lighting for the cabins until later? I would suggest either a seperate circuit, or one branch that has red-colored LEDs, so they can be nightime "operation" lights so you can not disturb your darkvision should you have to move between the cockpit and the interior while underway at night. Having a dimmer for the main lighting will help, but you'd really see a huge difference with a couple of key locations lit with a red colored light...
Love the lights, and I think plumbing is the art of thinking in advance for many variables such as levels, routing and future mishaps (perhaps)...cheers and thank you. ⛵
have to admit i like the slick lines of the boat without the ballwalk ..looks like a racing boat. as to lights , i use those in my work you should have got the Downlight Mini Swivel Round 2,5w
Next time you switch on the light they’ll probably look the same. LED’s almost always have a different colour temperature before “run in”. Soldering the ends is definitely what I would recommend. Also with the big 16 A one. The idea is to get a good connection.
'tinned' wire is tinned with solder. Soldering the wires ends is a good idea, not as nice as having the whole wire tinned, but you did good. Also glue filled heat shrink tubing.
You would need ro check the manufacturer specs but I do not believe Wago connectors are rated to be used on to soldered wires. It's good that they hold though and they will probably be fine even if the wotr connectors are not listed as compatible. You could have just as easily dipped the non-tinned bare stranded wires in an anti-oxidation grease such as Noalox or Ox-Guard. That would protect the connections at any corrosive environment short of a bleach factory. The lights look great. It would be nice to compare how many watts they all draw together. We have two or three 2w LED lights that we use to pretty much light up the interior when we are just hanging out after dark and not reading anything on dead tree media. If we want to do that we can turn on a couple more 2w task light sconces. There are a few more LEDs here and there and if we turn everything on we are drawing something like 20-24w.
Dear Mads. My buddy is a electrician and he gave me a paste that you dip the end of the wire into then you heat the wire and it sucks the paste down into the insulation. This stops that that corrosion from occurring. I will find out what it is and let you know.
I'm an electrical engineer. Some materials has a tendency to creep under pressure. Aluminium and tin are good examples. Depending on installation is can be a fire hazard. Don't do that!
@@yottaforce I would ad copper to that list. I don't know what the recommendation is, but I always go back and post tightening connections that are screwed, and they are always loose when you do it.
@@juliusceasar8987 I don't know if copper is prone to creep; but if; it's much less prone to do so. Alloying has IFAIK an influency too. When reading to become an engineer we wore taught this was the very reason you could use aluminium conductors in the power grid, but aluminium conductors was not available to consumers as number of conditions needed to be satisfied. On the other hand, copper is safe to use for normal consumers.
By soldering as you did, you tinned the wires. That's exactly what factory tinned wires are. Tinned = soldered. You did good.
For anyone wanting to tin a ton of wires, I'd look at using a solder bath. makes it SUPER easy.
10:48 Tinning is one of those topics where people can not reach a consensus. Not tinning has the disadvantages you mentioned. Tinning makes the conductor more brittle, especially at the location where it suddenly changes from tinned to not tinned. So they can break under stress, where stranded wires would not.
And if they're Wago 221s, they basically do not care what you stuff inside. Stranded, single solid core, tinned, crimp tips, you name it.
Tinning or soldering the ends of electrical wire will help keep the corrosion from forming on the surface of bare copper wire which will increase resistance in a junction and will lead to voltage drops and an increase in heat in the wire. It also prevents the wire ends from having loose strands sticking out that can short out to an adjacent terminal. It can also add a softer layer on the wire into which a tightened screw or a pressure tang can get a better grip on the wire and hold the connection better (as you found out)! Oddly enough that is NOT required by our ABYC as a regulation for boat wiring like requiring only stranded wire is, but it should be and makes perfect sense. Following legal codes in marine construction may be a requirement in some countries for insurance companies to cover your boat.
“You would think it was made by Volvo” lol
Hi Mads, a piece of advise... Raise the boom before you keep on working on the rigging or sails. It should never be able to hit you on your head and it will not give you space for the bimini/top where it is now. You look SO happy with Athena in the water! Cheers. :-)
putting solder on the ends of the wires is called 'tining' them which seems like a good replacement for 'tinned wire'
nothing beats wago. I've tried sugar cube terminals, screw on terminals, crimp terminals, solder, bus bars, the works. Permanent or temporary, if you can use wago then use wago. They have their limits but the same clamp works with both tiny and real thick gauge wire, they are rated for loads of amps, ac and dc and you can make the most compact plus and minus busses with the large ones - great behind cramped instrument panels.
There is no other connector that will get the job done without at least some swearing.
Cut the 'barrel' off of a crimp connector and remove the insulation. Crimp it onto the end of your wire and then you'll have enough metal to tighten the screws on. Moving up to the proper 32 amp wire and plug may solve that problem...For the 'un-tinned' wires, get a tube of 'Di-electric Grease' and squeeze some into each connection. It will exclude moisture and oxygen, preventing corrosion...
Mads, I think what you did there by folding over then end of the wire is standard practice. When I fit out my shed recently my electrician did this to every spot the wires got clamped down. First he would strip off more than he needed, then twist the wire to introduce a tight spiral, cut to about 20mm then fold in half
I should just add I’m not an electrician myself, it’s just what I noticed
Mads I know you always carefully check your sources, so I can be wrong.., When fitting a plug to the mains cable you better use cable end crimps (ferrules) on the wire ends when screwing them in the plug. This gives you a more secure connection ( risk of overheating or fire) Don’t solder the wire ends when clamping them down with a screw.
mads, love your videos. you are one hard working dude. i can not believe athena has been out of the water for 4 and a half years. time flies when you are having fun. really grateful for all your hard work and sharing this experience with us. we live vicariously thru your. #gratitude
For 32A hook up supply you should have at least 2.5mm 3 core cable. Also the blue plug is for 240v, yellow for 110v, red for 3phaze 415v and neutral; or it was when I was an electrician and I'm sure that hasn't changed. You can always get the US plug and swap over when you get there, as you will be there for a while.
Get well soon, all your followers are thinking of you.
Hi Mad's us again..... 😉 Oh No! 😁😁
As always it is your boat do what you like. 😁
However, we would concentrate on the IP rating and the Amp rating of the shore power supply. IP44 is the minimum you should want for shore power connectors.
From the shore to the boat;
Male plug IP44 (blue) to 2.5mm■ stranded cable @ Circa 25 Mtrs.(EU directive says this cable must be highly visableble). IE Blue, Orange or even Yellow).
Female socket with sprung cap. IP 44 (Blue). To boat inlet male, with sprung cap to IP44. Again Blue coloured.
This can be surface or flush mounted. The flush mounted ones have a cover flap and an interlock on the female socket preventing disconnection without the interlock being used.
Male sockets available from £4.50, 2.5mm■ Cable of 25 Mtrs £30. Female capped sockets £6.50. Flush mounted inlet male £25.
We can send you links to these if it's helpful?
One more thing (Oh no! 😄) If your going to use a 32 Amp rated shore power lead. All the connections and cable to the onboard breakers must be 32 Amp rated. Otherwise you potentially have a weak link in the shore power that is not protected by breakers after the hook up point. Over these distances 32 Amp rated would be 4mm ■ Again over rate your cable!
As your such a good egg, and an inspiration to thousands we would be happy to draw this up for you with all the calc's part numbers and suppliers links etc. If it would be of use?
Hope this helps. Sail Safe mate. Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.
Regarding tinning the ends of wires going into connectors: I don't/wouldn't tin (solder) the ends of cables going into connectors with set screws because the solder can flow over time and cause a loose connection. The Wago's shouldn't be a problem since they are spring loaded.
And that $72 connector was designed to use ferrels on the wires before insertion. I think you made a wise move purchasing a prebuilt cable--I expect you'll find the weatherproofing to be superior.
For $71, you should use ferrules over the wires to make a tight pressure connection with the set screws. They make a better connection that not get loose and increase your chance of hot connections and a fire. Set screw connections do not mate well with finely stranded wire. Worrying about Voltage drop with LED lamps? You must be using too small of a wire. LOL But soldering your wires is a good precaution.
Sorry to hear your sick.... Get well we will wait for your work to continue.
As an electrician, I commend your choice of control of fixtures. Never understand why people working on dark interiors don’t use low voltage cable systems . So easy to set up and use temporarily
Soldering the ends of the wires are actually a really really good idea I’ve worked in the aeronautical industry for many many years and we do the same process ....
I was about to post the same...
Dear Mads, trust you are well, or if not, recovering. No doubt lots of folks out here missed your vlog this week (which is not a problem) but hope you are ok in these difficult times.
Aaaaah Sunday is now complete I can sleep easy tonight
We use that plug in England for 110 volt, blue ones are £6.72 on eBay UK
Search 240 Volt 32 Amp Blue Electrical Industrial Male Plug.
You can buy ready made leads, female outlets, doubles etc.
Sail Life Logo on side of boat between horizontal lines. Vote #1
Some LEDs, often cheap ones made for cars, emit radio energy as an unintended by product. This might impact your GPS and VHF radio. You might want to confirm the bi=ulbs you bought don't impact your radio receivers. A dimmer might also do that - worth a check.
Soldering wire is called tinning, so you did the right thing mate. Just make sure to only use enough to wet said wire.
at this point, i feel it is safe to say that you can no longer introduce these videos aboard, "good old Athena." its time to start them with, "spiffy NEW Athena."
go ahead, you've more than earned it. so has she.
"Good old Athena" is looking pretty spiffy. Helleva job Mads!
Just noticed the comment about using ferrules, but in a marine environment the copper needs to be tinned. I've seen some horrendous problems with corroded copper wire, so 10/10 from me! The Wago style of connectors work brilliantly, there is always pressure on the connection so nothing works loose. Result! Lights look fab, I'm not a lover of dimmers and, to me, switching sections of lighting would give a better result and be more reliable in the long run. Those dimmer switches are notoriously problematic. Great video, you really are on the downhill slope now! Just another update - Zano controls will have a dimmer switch that won't introduce flicker...
I would pay good money to watch you review popular production boats. As you know so much from experience and you are so honest and postive!
I would not worry about the straight copper pigtails on the lights getting corroded (green) and overheating. It requires significantly more power through those wires than you are putting through them to cause any amount of heat being generated by them. In my experience, that only happens when the power through the appliance from which they come exceeds 100 watts for 12 gauge wire. You are only putting about 10 watts through yours and you should be OK. BTW: Love watching you put such good thought into what you are doing. I am also a sailor, although we bought a plane instead of a boat, when I retired. My difference from you is that, whenever we charter a boat, I am always fixing something. I don't have to do that with the airplane - I am not licensed to maintain it. ;)
Solder well done is your best friend. Once upon a time I was an installer for Princess Cruise Lines. Ferules work great on land where salt air is not an issue. They are horrible for boats. When you use solder you should still inspect the wiring regularly on a schedule. Everything electrical becomes suspect over time, and will eventually fail. The union of dis-similar metals has been discussed before, and it still applies. Humid salty air makes the corrosion problem much worse over time. That said I have tried every kind of connection known to man including epoxy, and some fancier stuff. Nothing works perfectly. But solder is the best bang for the buck solution by far. You may find that directly soldering wire to wire is a better solution in the long run, but I have not tried those specific connectors myself. Best wishes. Solder might also help with the shore power plug if you come up against that same issue some time in the future with the right sized plug. What you might think of as overkill on a boat's electrical system seldom amounts to that in the long run. The extra capacity prevents corrosion and bad connections from ruining your day. It is also a good idea to reduce the number of types of wire / connectors to make things swapable and make spares manageable.
BTW if you want to try Ferules get the crimper with 6 sided jaws. There are 4 sided ones, but screw terminals dont hold onto those well, and they dont fit into round terminals of the right size. The Ferule itself doesnt change, just the crimper. And yeah the 6 sided crimpers with compression calibration are a lot more money.
Hello from Slovenia I desperately wait for your upload every Sunday and now that the boats are so close together please make longer videos
Waiting 7days for 15min sucks 😊
By the way love your work an videos
Stay safe
Mads don't beat yourself up so much about mistakes you have so many details and everything is getting closer to the deadline . So your only human like the rest of us . Don't worry you are doing much better then 99.99 % of the other DYI channels out there !!
Exactly! 😉
0:10 It's hard to believe that I've been watching your movies week after week for so long :)
Greetings
Now is the time to test your LED dimmer for RFI. With a handeld radio below, and with a conventional antenna up the mast.
If the one LED does not match in colors, contact the maker. White LEDs often come off one product line, and at extra cost they are tested and sorted into 9 grades, by color and brightness. If the maker cheaped out and bought unsorted LEDs...all you can do is look for another one.
Hi Mads, I would recommend that you get yourself a selection of Bootlace Ferrules for your future wiring projects. Once crimped into place they are exceedingly sturdy and will vastly reduce the wire slippage you experienced with the shore power plug screws. I used to work in a factory that made lighting for public spaces and prisons, and we had a little electric crucible that heated up blocks of solder, so that we could tin our wire bundles for easier fitment into the connectors, by dipping them in the melted solder. It was useful because it guaranteed an even amount of solder per wire, and reduced the amount that snuck under the sleeve.
Mads, don't worry the wiring. You did fine. Just remember to occasionally check them for corrosion. You do want to break those lights up onto a couple of switches, possibly by areas (galley, settee, and such). You may also want to convert one or two over to either blue or red light for night sailing and have them on a different switch.
Are you going to give a bit of thought to some red LED lighting for night running Mads?
Great video Mads. Lighting is really nice for the camera work. Definitely dark outside. I can't believe it has been four years. I remember how exciting it was when you sailed Athena home. Four years flew by. Thank you for four years of wonderful Sunday nights. Take care, stay well and my best to Ava and Jurkil.
Damn Mads, Athena is looking fly! So slick and spiffy. And yes, the stripes do make the boat go faster. I remember when you first sailed her home, and I was so worried you might not make it.
Mads- Looks awesome! PLEASE remember to clean the flux core residue off of the tinned ends; the flux in the solder will cause the wires to corrode over a short time if left in place.
Soldering the end of the wires is a good idea. Think about using bootlaces as well. Quicker and easier.
Tinned cables are just exactly what you did. A bit of solder on the end. Previous commenter ılCigno said "conductor end sleeves" Sounds like awesome advice. Soldering increases chances of cables snapping through movement stress. Sailboats even when stationary are not the most movement free things. As with many things it'll work fine until it doesn't. The side effects on a boat may be more serious than non functionality. Looking awesome. Can't believe there was no brass band and champagne for the splash. ;)
I've been following the series since oblix and I just want you to know you're doing an incredible job. The highlight of my week watching. Greetings from Cambridge England!
Double up as you’ve done or a ferrule. Single thickness copper wire isn’t a great way off fitting of a cable. 👍
Oh, and Aviation plugs put Marine stuff to shame price wise - a 32 amp 3 phase outlet a customer required the other week was $780...
lol tinning the ends of wire has been done with solder since they started tinning , the trick is to get the tinned ends past the insulation without melting it and dont over twist it
Only ever tinned wires on the upper deck personally but that was on large ships with ac inside. Always found it easiest to hold the wire to the iron then when it was hot apply the solder to the wire and it would generally be drawn up under the insulation.
Soldering the ends of the wire before putting them in a connection like that is a good idea, you also my have not needed to double it up in that case.
Great to see her in the water!
Soldering the wires is perfectly fine Mads. Gives the same effect as tining them, anything to keep the salt water off them. Now that you have easily changeable lights have a look around. In my boat I have LED that are on a switch but each individual light can be turned off just by touching it so I can have any combo in the saloon i want. Don't need extra switches just turn on only the ones you want and dim them at will.
Tinning the wires is the right thing to do!
Wago clips work with anything. Big AC wires, automotive wires, tinned or untinned wires as well as solid or braided wires. Even super tiny electronics wires.
Anyone know what hes using for headliner? or what episode he put in the headliner?
Perhaps have the lights switched from each end of the saloon. That way you can turn them on and off from the companion way and also when entering and leaving the forward cabin at night. If you can’t double switch them, one set of lights switched from one end and the others from the other end will mean you don’t have to scramble through the saloon in the dark. Great job.
Wago Wallnuts! Love them! And I am in the USA where they are unobtainium. I think you are wise to “tin” those wires, but I am just a DIY cowboy. Everything is looking super spiffy indeed!
Hi Guy, Just want to share our experince with having towel heators in toilet and bathroom. And also I can recoment floor heating.
Your face is simply beaming with excitement for the lighting. Good to see you so happy.
Tinning the act, art, or process of covering or coating anything with melted tin/ If you look at the solder you will see its 70-30 or 60-40 /solder is a metal alloy (usually of lead and tin) It has 5 benefits 1) makes a better connection when soldering electrical connection 2) makes a protective coating over the end of the electrical wire 3) tinned copper conductors prevent accelerated corrosion against wet and contaminated environments. 4) Extends the Life of the Cable 5) has the same electrical connection resistance as bare copper wire.
Started my day with AQUAHOLIC and finished it with Sail Life. I can’t think of a finer day. I am so blessed. I think that Athena looks quite stunning with the all white hull, and no port lites. Such sleek smooth lines. Once you put the toe rail on it might be different, but right now it’s very striking. I do so thoroughly enjoy your work. Thank you so much for your effort
3:10 You need to use Crimp Cord End Terminal. they protect the wire cores from damage by the screw.
And it would be nice to use technical petroleum jelly as a hydrophobic filler inside the WAGO terminals.
Dear Mads try this product called No- ox- Id you dip the end of your wire into it then take a cigarette lighter and heat the wire up then the compound wick into the insulation to stop corrosion.
That sounds brilliant. Tinned wire is very expensive.
Us no ox on your battery terminals too. No heat needed.
You might consider 1/4 inch plastic sheeting with 2 inch v groove to create a look of a beaded ceiling
Creating the grooving is easy with a laminate router I love lying in the bunk and looking up to see it .It will look great with the varnished beams
You need to fill up the scrum swim lanes on your project board. I really enjoyed seeing projects move from todo to doing to done. Oddly satisfying.
Frankly it is a great idea to solder and yes eletrical Eng 37yr and there is and will be zero issues especially with the di Ele grease...Mads !!!!! Great work you do your home work
Fairwinds from the @captains.chair
Soldering is an excellent idea for stranded cable. Looking forward to following the rewiring! Do also place the dimmer unit in an easy to access place -- they can be very fail prone.
Tinning wire creats a hard spot that can fatigue fail due to vibration that is why it is not done on aircraft or car looms same can happen on boats so not the best thing to do.
Bad idea. Tin has a tendency to creep when under pressure. It can become a fire hazard.
It is a fantastic idea. Did it all the time in the Navy
Hey Mads, thanks for another great video! You might want to look out for condensation buildup right above the lights though! Since all of the ceiling is insulated, the circles of insulation you removed might leave areas of colder roof to collect condensate and then drip it onto the lights. Might want to watch out for that! Hopefully I'm wrong!
Just an electrical advice 🤩
You must apply cable shoe on the end of the core. The PE ground need to be around 2cm longer dir safety in case the cable is pulled our by force.
And at last, the insurer ask for oil and fire resistant cable, mainly the orange type.
Further check the phase and neutral is plugged correctly. The plug has some kind of polarization checking electronic in. The red led.
Now we start worming 🤮 about the insane Victron price. My ready made 16A 20m cable was 270€ 😢
EDIT: see other replies!
ORG: This type of WAGO connectors 221 are specialy designed for fine wires without cap .
@@ottopeter340 absolut they take flex and solid cable. Im talking about the shore power connector. Longe PE and cable shoe are required. I’m electrician 🧐
@@thomaspoett868 yes sorry, i just realised that. i was wondering why so many people talk about calbe shoes in wagos without realising they talk about the shore wire cable ( the importand one).
@@ottopeter340 well it’s pretty normal, most first think about the WAGO connectors and they are relatively new. But on plugs in general, most connections I ever saw are without shoes. I think electrical systems are simply as long some basics are taken care of 😌
Looks like a great idea to solder the wires! No corrosion.
Tinning the ends of the wires with solder was a great idea
Mads... great choice on the LED lights! Tinning with solder basically prevents oxidation. Not sure if you need to add anti-galvanic gel to the screw terminals and to the tinned wires. You probably won’t see much of a galvanic redaction for 10-20 years, in my humble opinion.
Tinning is soldering. You should always 'tin' the wire with solder before making a joint. Solder on bullet connectors for that plug (technically pins I suppose).
Tinning wire creats a hard spot that can fatigue fail due to vibration that is why it is not done on aircraft or car looms same can happen on boats so not the best thing to do.
Without fully tined wire, I always solder the ends and try to get a bit to run into the sheath if the wire isn’t to thin. Have you thought about self adhesive graphics for the hull, it could include your logo and as a custom design, would look very spiffy. 😃😃
Please always use conductor end sleeves when installing fine wired cables in screw terminals!
Yes! please use wire end sleeves!
Or at last tin on wire tips
I hope that pre-made cable comes with tinned wire !
@@jackpatteeuw9244 I hope it doesn't. Tin tends to flow under pressure, weakening the connection. You definitely want sleeves on the conductors (a.k.a. ferrules). Had to look up the term because English is not my native language... ;-)
Edit: best option is probably both sleeves and tin.
I also should apologize - tinned != with solder. Obviously, with just a tiny coating of tin on each individual strand, nothing is going to flow. Adding a sleeve is still going to be a good idea, though.
@@realulli I have seen ferrules deform under pressure and the wire pull right out.
When I was in the military we were taught to add solder to the ends of the wire for protection. Guess what they called it "tinned". I think you are good.
I like your light choice, and I loved your comment that there will be some fitting or something that you need but do not have. Nice to see someone else lives life on those terms. Excellent work! Thanks!
Lighing to see the run of your heating.....a natural progression. Always a great time ..spending time with you and Athena . Cheers
Hi Mads, if you unfold the headliner material and roll it around a cardboard tube like it was originally, the creases will probably disappear over time.
Athena looks Great in the water! Can't wait to be there ourselves!
Your videos make me want to refit a boat and they also make me want to move away from the ocean.
You could use the 3 US$ connectors without any problem since you change all the nuts and screws to stainless steel.
I have two on my sailboat since 2001 without issues.
You made this boat look soo nice since you started working on her.
Hey are you okay? Did I miss that you would skip a week or are is there’s something wrong? Be safe!
What happened to november 29th session??? jhansen@chartermi.net Hope all is well . In Michigan we need a little boat news to keep our sanity....
@@jameshansen1256 he said on facebook " Sorry guys! No video this week. I'm sick and wasn't able to finish the video. I hope to see you next Sunday 🙂 Stay safe!"
You are definitely an anorak!!
IF you sail as well as you DIY, then all will be good!
The sailing will be easy!
tinning the ends as you did, is a good idea... (the term "tinning" and "tinned" does come from the root of Tin, the metal, which is a constituent part of solder...)
are you going to hold off the lighting for the cabins until later?
I would suggest either a seperate circuit, or one branch that has red-colored LEDs, so they can be nightime "operation" lights so you can not disturb your darkvision should you have to move between the cockpit and the interior while underway at night. Having a dimmer for the main lighting will help, but you'd really see a huge difference with a couple of key locations lit with a red colored light...
Making good progress... best DYI on TH-cam.. thank you for sharing 🤙
I see you are sick hope its not to bad.rest up and take care of your self.
Love the lights, and I think plumbing is the art of thinking in advance for many variables such as levels, routing and future mishaps (perhaps)...cheers and thank you. ⛵
have to admit i like the slick lines of the boat without the ballwalk ..looks like a racing boat. as to lights , i use those in my work you should have got the Downlight Mini Swivel Round 2,5w
👍To stop the flickering from your lights when videoing put a filter over the lens. Tinting plastic you put on windows allso works👍👍
My God it looks so good in the water!!!
Athena is really looking good & very spiffy n ship shape keep the great video's coming Mads you make Mondays worthwhile!
After all these years of refitting, it's odd to see Athena in the water at the beginning of your video's, Mads. :D
Mads, its your boat, and you're doing the work, you do what you want, ps, i miss the glorious sanding
Everything is looking very crisp !
Wow, it is so good to see the boat in the water. Great job Mads.
Next time you switch on the light they’ll probably look the same. LED’s almost always have a different colour temperature before “run in”.
Soldering the ends is definitely what I would recommend. Also with the big 16 A one. The idea is to get a good connection.
You know the boom is at the right height if you keep bumping your head!😍
that's why "they" call it a boom, right??
'tinned' wire is tinned with solder. Soldering the wires ends is a good idea, not as nice as having the whole wire tinned, but you did good.
Also glue filled heat shrink tubing.
You would need ro check the manufacturer specs but I do not believe Wago connectors are rated to be used on to soldered wires. It's good that they hold though and they will probably be fine even if the wotr connectors are not listed as compatible.
You could have just as easily dipped the non-tinned bare stranded wires in an anti-oxidation grease such as Noalox or Ox-Guard. That would protect the connections at any corrosive environment short of a bleach factory.
The lights look great. It would be nice to compare how many watts they all draw together. We have two or three 2w LED lights that we use to pretty much light up the interior when we are just hanging out after dark and not reading anything on dead tree media. If we want to do that we can turn on a couple more 2w task light sconces. There are a few more LEDs here and there and if we turn everything on we are drawing something like 20-24w.
Great idea using the Wago connectors for lighting, I use them in everything nowadays and it saves me so much time!
Hi Mads, lights with individual switches who make your wiring easier and give you ultimately flexibility.
Always Solder those wire-ends to go into the connector for releability long-term Mads.
Dear Mads. My buddy is a electrician and he gave me a paste that you dip the end of the wire into then you heat the wire and it sucks the paste down into the insulation. This stops that that corrosion from occurring. I will find out what it is and let you know.
I'm an electrical engineer. Some materials has a tendency to creep under pressure. Aluminium and tin are good examples. Depending on installation is can be a fire hazard. Don't do that!
@@yottaforce I would ad copper to that list. I don't know what the recommendation is, but I always go back and post tightening connections that are screwed, and they are always loose when you do it.
@@juliusceasar8987 I don't know if copper is prone to creep; but if; it's much less prone to do so. Alloying has IFAIK an influency too. When reading to become an engineer we wore taught this was the very reason you could use aluminium conductors in the power grid, but aluminium conductors was not available to consumers as number of conditions needed to be satisfied. On the other hand, copper is safe to use for normal consumers.