I got a old AIO with a dead pump for 5€ and i added a random pump amd got it working and use it daily, just it suck it has max a AM3+ bracked The backplate supports all sockets besides AM4. If anyone has a COOLERMASTER Seidon 120v mounting kit for intel let me know
@@dexsters5643 admittedly there isn't many available, I found a link to a forum but the website won't allow me to view unless I accept notifications so I'm leaving that, I found another but I doubt you'd be willing to shell out the $130 they ask, it's an old cooler anyway I'd look at getting something new sometime soon
I love the idea, but... come one... cable ties?!? I would at least cut a piece of aluminum plate to clamp the block down with screws on the MB! Do that in round 2 (+ clear fishtank tubing)
This is so cool. I love the cobble-it-together stuff you do for cheap! Those blocks are aluminum and very small. Not much contact surface for the IHS or die on the graphics processor. You would have needed to sand off the anodizing to bare aluminum to help it, but again, the contact area is too small. Also, they aren't completely flat. Your fountain pump is strong enough, just your blocks aren't big enough. Aluminum is good at moving heat away, but copper is a much better conductor of heat. Even with a block that size made of copper, you'd still have issues. There's no compromise for surface area. Can't wait to see you get it sorted out!
So many things wrong with this build. Don't use automotive coolant. Better with straight distilled water. Don't mix metals. It causes corrosion. Don't use your finger to spread the compound. You would have had better contact just letting the blob spread on it's own. The blocks are still crap, but the TIM would have done a better job filling in the uneven areas. Plus the grease on your hands has a negative effect as well. Pump performance is EXTREMELY important. The best blocks and rads in the world will perform like crap with a terrible under powered pump. You will need blocks with some sort of fin or pin arrangement inside. No clue what these have but pins/fins are a must for better heat transfer. An empty cavity will do very little heat transfer and cooling.
+Chad Bremer 1. Mixing metals is no problem, as long as zinc or aluminium aren't involved. I'm even using copper, nickel and brass in my build and chemically there is nothing that can react at all. 2. Spreading TIM or just pressing down the blob doesn't matter at all. I'm using the credit-card-spread-technique for over 10 years now and I never encountered any "hotspots" caused by "ominous air-bubbles" or anything of that sort. But you're right on what you say about the bear finger. In case you want to use your finger to spread it, just put a thin plastic bag around your finger. 3. Pump-performance is not linearly bound to cooling-performance. In my setup the best cooling performance is reached at a pump-rpm between 2500 and 3000 min^-1. Above 3000 min^-1 the performance decreases again. That means for all builds and for all watercooling loops, the best performance has to be determined by testing various scenarios. 4. The best waterblocks available 8-10 years ago were so called "Düsenkühler" (Jetcooler) that didn't have any fins or pins inside at all. I doubt that the blocks used in the video were Düsenkühler but just generally assuming that you need pins or fins inside to raise the surface area is wrong. Please don't take this as an offense but be considerate about what you say, because every coin has 2 sides and there are numerous ways that lead to rome. Kind regards, Meta Custom Computers
Meta Custom Computers 1 general rule, don't mix metals. Yes, similar metals like nickel, brass, and copper are safe for the most part. But the blocks appear to be aluminium. Really bad choice since the rad most likely has brass in it. 2 agree to disagree I guess. I have tried it over the twenty years. I only ever got a bad seat with spreading. And the general consensus with everyone I know is that it's a poorest option. 3 By pump performance I am mostly reffering to having enough. If the flow is terrible, temps climb. There is a point where the faster the pump flow goes that it wont really improve anything. In extreme situations the flow can be so fast the rads can not cool the fluid effectively. But you need a some beast pumps like dual DDC or D5 for example. And less rad than you really need. 4 As for blocks, yes ten years ago some blocks just had a cavity in them. But, as we all know, increasing the surface area has a huge impact on cooling as long as good flow is maintained. Those old blocks could not even stand up to the now defunct Danger Den blocks. And you can get those or old Swiftech blocks super cheap used. Especially ones for old 775 sockets. Easy enough to Jerry rig them for a setup like this. No offence taken. I just had to clarify myself a bit I guess.
Not sure I've seen water blocks painted on the side where they come in contact with the cpu/gpu. Could that also be one of the reasons they performed so bad?
wow almost 43k views in 3 days. Good for you Brian. You're the most brutally honest, no holds bar, big balls tech reviewer on youtube! don't ever change man
+ILL BILL NECRO I would argue that a good AIO hits on all three of those items, all the while making it easier to squeeze every bit of performance out of your chips, and/or extending the life of you components (and not just the ones that are water cooled). But that's just my opinion.
+Tech YES City Great video man! You've really been killing it with these builds recently, even better that you enjoy doing them so much. Congrats on all the channel growth recently.
Great stuff as always Brian. You are closing in on that 100,000 subs. Watching all your vids here with the old hardware, I decided to go thru my stuff to see what I could throw together. I put together a i3 2120 on a MSI z77 motherboard, 8gigs of ddr3 1866 ram, gtx 770 and a corsair gs 600 psu. I have a 250gb velociraptor. All this in a old Thermaltake case. But I still more old stuff to go thru.
+Nate Pinkston (MC Survivalist) That theory got debunked thousands of times in so many years and still everyone is spreading the rumors, it's really insane... Kind regards, Meta Custom Computers
"I got beat; not used to getting beat" The fact you straight up showed us what sort of worked and what didn't was AWESOME. Big thumbs up for that Bryan.
Ahhh, I was wrong in my previous comment, If I had watched the entire video, instead of skipping about, I would have noticed you did indeed use a 80% Water (2 Liters) to 20% Antifreeze (400ML) Ratio. Doesn't do a lot of good for me to recommend something your already doing lol You should become a teacher or something right? :P
1) It's just for the test, he just wanted to see if it's possible. It's actually shitty, it doesn't cool well. 2) You can't have your gpu watercooled with an aio.
Useful only if using conductive thermal paste, so you're sure paste doesn't get where it shouldn't. But if you're using non-conductive paste, you're just making your fingers dirty for nothing.
More a general feedback! The topics you are covering and the way how you do it is budget-orientated and easy to access for the public (i think). When i saw the title of this video i thought: "might be my watercoolingupgrade ;)" Moreover with this little indancemoves and the outtakes your video gained a little entertaingfactor. Keep making this videos ;)
+cubbiefn I bet you haven't even tested my method? Also I will challenge whoever you pick to a 10 builds vs 10 builds side by side (same gear vs same gear) and whoever gets the best temps consistently wins?
The results are same. The normal recommended use doesn't usually have a full coverage when removing the heatsink. Putting too much will just overflow. I actually prefer this method he used as it does a full coverage and its fairly thin. People worry about oil from your fingers affecting thermal paste. They aren't wrong, but unless you're building a PC while eating KFC there will be no noticeable difference whatsoever. And I'm fairly confident that he's hands are clean. With all that cleaning, I have faith.
+cubbiefn there really is no difference in thermal paste application as long as you get good temps. to much in general and it will squeeze out. do the grain of rice method and you get a dot in the middle of a square and don't get full coverage. sure you might get a bubble doing the spread method but the majority of the time that your don't get a bubble you end up with a more uniform coating with no bare spots. there is no universal correct method. different companies have different methods. EK wants a + sign (top to bottom, left to right) and an X sign (corner to corner). Antecs thermal paste says to use the spreader it comes with.
I did something similar to what you did here, but as you also mentioned I did go with a better Pump and CPU Block. I did not Water Cool the VGA, it's still under warranty so I did not want to mess with it. I used a used D5 pump for like 60 bucks, used, and a CPU Block from China, like 25 bucks. I also made sure to use all copper for everything because I don't think Aluminum cools as well as copper and it's not really that much different in price. I also used 2 Res for a bit of added water to the loop and some Tee's with shut off valves to drain and fill my loop easily. I also purchased a Tape and Die for G 1/4 so if I need an extra port or coupling, I simply drill a hole in the Res and tap it or cut a piece of copper pipe. I modded my D5 Pump Housing to accept G 1/4 fittings so that I could attach a Res right to the Inlet of the pump with a coupling. As I researched Aluminum it just seemed like it was too uneven on the surface where as copper was clearly flatter. I also invested in two used Rads, 240 and 360 plus fans and lastly a PWM Block to control all the fans. I used push pull and can say my FX 8350 does not go above 35 degrees C any time. I forgot to mention I also added Temp Ports both before and after the CPU to ensure that the entire loop is within a degree or two just for shits and giggles. I am using the Asus Crosshair V Formula-Z 990FX and invested in the VRM cooler, which does not seem to do much as I don't OC much, just a bit to give it a bit of zing... I opted for vinyl tubing to be able to see if there is anything growing in my loop. Oh, a Silver Coil is a must have, and I dropped mine in the Res so that it does not get sucked into the loop and my water is well over a year old and no growth what so ever. I did try an experiment with Glycol but for some reason that changed the color of the tubing and gave up on it and replaced all the tubing after a good flushing. In a different build I used Pass Through fittings to mod my case so that if I want to drain, add or change fluids it was really easy to do. That proved to be more problem than to seem to do any good so now I use use Tee's and shut off valves. All is not lost on your project as you can salvage most of it, just need to up the game on the pump and maybe use a belt sander on the surface to get it a bit flatter than work it with higher grade paper to get it smooth again. I will say this about Aluminum, it is very east to work with. I recently modded a North Bridge Aluminum Cooler from an old CPU Cooler and I am here to say I was able to use the original clip and it makes the North Bridge ice cold, barely gets warm now. It use to get hot that it would almost melt anything near by, but no more. Cheers Mate....
I'm a big fan of linus, or rather than that actually, just a person who has come to like very much his work, sinceI'm not biased lol and yeah... Linus and Scrapyard wars (the later 2 seasons) can suck ass compared to this! very good work. rlly apreciate it :)
Smart idea to run the loop without the PC components powered on. I don't do watercooling so this could be common practice for all i know. You should definitely do a round 2 when it comes to the ghetto watercooling i'd love to see better blocks and a stronger pump (I think there are some better ones on ebay around $20 ill have to take a look). Used would obviously be the way to go but not everyone has access to the same parts and prices so i think using new parts from the hardware shop/ebay was definitely the way to go for this type of project. Anyway thanks for the video Brian i really enjoyed it.
Good video! And all you really need is a cpu block that has fins inside it (preferably copper). You really missed out on a quite a few big aspects tho! 1.people like to know the source of items you are using even if they may not be the best out there. 2.add all the steps in words on screen if your not going to talk about what you are doing newbies will thank you for this. Also some notes i have for you in your water cooling, first make a few systems and test them before making a video because you will learn a lot from doing that way you make a informative video that people will like. Tips A. Never use your finger to spread thermal compound it will rub off the oil from your skin and make a thermal barrier. Also just use a grain of rice method for spreading your TIM let it spread out under pressure (not a lot) this will ensure your TIM fills any gaps. B. Never use a shim just make sure the block has been sanded flat i like to make them mirror finish with 1500,2000,2500,3000 grit sand paper. you can pickup these at local bodyshop or even at a auto parts store. C. The pump should be ok as long as the water is still moving. Just make sure you have cpu block first in loop after your radiator/pump. Also make sure your flow into cpu block is from the bottom to top that way air will work it self out. Other thoughts. I like your tubing i'm guessing its a gas line hose of sorts very nice! The reason i like it is because the thick rubber side wall is good at sealing on barb fittings. Also it is braided line so it should not collapse on it self. Also it looked pretty flexible witch is very important when working with pc's as the parts are some what delicate. All said and done i think this can be done for under $100 or at least very close to! Ok thats all i can think of right now really nice job on the video looks clean and neat big thumbs up!
As someone who's also built a super budget customer PC water loop 15 years ago I can tell you 2 things that have let you down despite the rest of the design being reasonably sound. Your water block mounting. Cable ties just don't cut it. You need a solid mounting system which can apply a consistent clamping force to allow for good heat transfer, especially in a water setup where you have additional forces trying to rip the water block off the CPU / GPU And secondly your application of thermal paste sucks. You aren't meant to paint it on with your finger, it doesn't work well like that. You're far better off just applying a single blob to the centre of the chip or a single straight line. When you apply the cooler despite not being a perfect mating surface the thermal material gets squeezed and fills all of the voids as it tries to spread and escape the pressure. Added benefit to this is that air is also expelled. The pre-spread method has a huge tendency to capture air pockets in the thermal material. It can work but first you need to use enough in the first place to actually make full contact with the water block. Good luck if you give this a try again. :)
I don't know how many times I have seen comments about the thermal paste spreading and people blaming his temps on it, but your completely wrong, he's done multiple tests to disprove that myth also with gpus it's almost necessary
I also did a similar build for my PC because I had no money but wanted watercooling: Cheap butterfly cpu block for 10 bucks and an old aquarium pump we had around. The pump has a label on it: "Made in West Germany", not much to add I guess... A friend had an old excavator heater, so we used that as a cooler. As a water container we used a small water container from a car, where the washing fluid is usually stored (for the windshield). We had solid 50° Celsius on full load on the CPU. I later added another cooler and its now on 40° ! :D
For those that aren't sure what certain items are because of the vague description or you're scratching your head at "Battery water" or "Engine hose" and you want to walk into your local Automotive parts store and or WalMart and when you ask them they give you a funny look followed up by a half a dozen options like Heater Hose, Emission hose, EFI Fuel hose, low pressure Fuel hose, Hydraulic hose, etc, well small heater hose and even cheaper Fuel Vapor/Emission hose should do fine within these temperatures, just make sure you're getting the right diameter for your fittings, whether it's measured in ID or OD just be careful with cheap and flimsy vacuum hose that could collapse when the temps start to rise. ??Battery water?? = distilled water, you can get a gallon from Wally world for about a $1
YO THIS GUY IS THE ONLY MAN TO DO THIS CHEAP CUSTOM WATER COOLING BUILD. NOT EVEN JAY FROM JAYZ2CENTS HAS THE BALLS TO TRY THIS, HE IS SUCH A EK FAN BOY, I HAVE TRIED TO CONTACT JAY ABOUT THIS AND THEN BRIAN DOES IT THE 1ST TRY . YOU ARE THE BEST MAN!
I like it Brian,I saw those cheap-o water blocks on eBay some time back and though if having a crack. Very good video as always : ) Would be cool do maybe use a cheap pond pump and some budget but branded blocks.
Oily fingers in TIM are a no no, and don't spread it let it do the job just put a dab in the middle you could create air bubbles. Your temperatures are bad because there is no force from those zip ties on your surfaces so the lack of any brackets on those blocks needs to be addressed. I have a suggestion and it is the way i had done what you are trying to years ago for copper/bronze blocks i had made my self for my first LCL: Fabricate a steel X bracket to hold down the block on the CPU well (take measurements from the back of the M/B and use hard steel for the X plate you don't want those corners bending later) with 4mm holes on each tip of the x for the M/B holes underneath, find some long screws some nuts and 4 springs and 4 steel 4 Plastic washers and you have slowly made your self a much better CPU Block 4 sure. I like you presentation keep it up and let us know how it goes!
That was hilarious Brian. Had to watch the whole video and didnt want to miss any part of it. It should have been called the Ghetto watercool solution. I really thought it would work though. Maybe you should have filled the radiator with Old English 500 or 8 ball 60oz.
In general you don't need a superb waterpump. Water can soak up alot of heat so as long there is a decent waterflow you are perfectly fine. Pumps with a "Max. Discharge head of 1.8 meters" are strong enough to deliver uncompromised cooling-performance for a average build. Off course with more blocks, 90 bends fittings and very restrictive blocks it's better to get a stronger pump...
This is off subject but i was totally drawn when you put the thermal paste on lol i was like holy shhit, thats a perfect square almost and he just used his finger , great video!
![โอ้เธอช่าง... - บี้เดอะสกา ft. ต๋อง เทวัญ (Prod. by ป๋าเพชร) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zbWhiLFmVL0/mqdefault.jpg)
You would DESTROY on LinusTechTips' Scapyard Wars!
they suck.
+dumkopf Fuck Linus
+amazingjoe555 Apparently things are cheap in Japan.
***** YES.
Blake Belladonna He said he got these off of amazon/ebay. Looks like some of the hardware and tubing was bought in the hardware store.
18:27 rofl
umg techsource
The king is here :O
+TechSource Hey man, how's things?
+PotatoLegion I rather say TYS is better on Japanese Budget
+Tech YES City You're channel is better, you deserve more subs!
Using zipties on your water block JDM as fuck
do you even know what JDM is?
Junkie Dominated Morphine?
***** No shit dude :) I love the EK civic
***** all about the lightweight and power... the looks are good but a car is about whats under the hood
drifter as fuck more like xDdrift stitching your pc
Dude I LOVE your crazy ideas and builds. As others have said you would cream LTT in scrapyard wars haha. So close to 100K!!
I'm beginning to enjoy this channel more and more. Kickass Bryan!
+Losimantom i love bryan! no homo
18:14 made me laugh out loud... annnnd it's midnight... WHY DID YOU HAVE TO MAKE ME LAUGH WHEN EVERYONE IS ASLEEP?!
+Retz lo
+Joao9 Kile no
is this the meme crew?
+GTX 1080 are you everywhere??
Mohamed Osama Yes
Nothing is more JDM than zipties! #MAAAAAAAAAAAAAD
Loving the creative and unique builds in your videos lately, Brian. Keep it up!
im tempted to try this.......
I got a old AIO with a dead pump for 5€ and i added a random pump amd got it working and use it daily, just it suck it has max a AM3+ bracked
The backplate supports all sockets besides AM4. If anyone has a COOLERMASTER Seidon 120v mounting kit for intel let me know
@@dexsters5643 just search for one
@@fewik8567 i cant find it
The aio is
coolermaster Seidon 120v
@@dexsters5643 admittedly there isn't many available, I found a link to a forum but the website won't allow me to view unless I accept notifications so I'm leaving that, I found another but I doubt you'd be willing to shell out the $130 they ask, it's an old cooler anyway I'd look at getting something new sometime soon
@@fewik8567 130 i would rather pass and buy a dual or triple rad cooler for that amount of cash
Pretty sure Tech YES City was a ballerina in his past life,
10/10 Dance move, would pay him to tutor me to learn to dance
This comment is fireeeee
I love the idea, but... come one... cable ties?!? I would at least cut a piece of aluminum plate to clamp the block down with screws on the MB! Do that in round 2 (+ clear fishtank tubing)
Air is so good you can even breathe it and it wont kill you.
Another nice video.
You are officially my favorite tech channel.
Actually gives information a broke-ass country bumpkin like me can use!
Country?
this is one of the million reason why i subscribed to this channel, this guy is a genius building stuff with a low budget
Here's an idea: Look for used / malfunctioning AIOs and snatch the blocks off of them. Then you can use those for a cheap water loop.
There is a cheaper and better way to a water cooling loop,buying these things from taobao th-cam.com/video/a-XBESL4Uuk/w-d-xo.html
This is so cool. I love the cobble-it-together stuff you do for cheap! Those blocks are aluminum and very small. Not much contact surface for the IHS or die on the graphics processor. You would have needed to sand off the anodizing to bare aluminum to help it, but again, the contact area is too small. Also, they aren't completely flat. Your fountain pump is strong enough, just your blocks aren't big enough. Aluminum is good at moving heat away, but copper is a much better conductor of heat. Even with a block that size made of copper, you'd still have issues. There's no compromise for surface area. Can't wait to see you get it sorted out!
So many things wrong with this build. Don't use automotive coolant. Better with straight distilled water. Don't mix metals. It causes corrosion. Don't use your finger to spread the compound. You would have had better contact just letting the blob spread on it's own. The blocks are still crap, but the TIM would have done a better job filling in the uneven areas. Plus the grease on your hands has a negative effect as well. Pump performance is EXTREMELY important. The best blocks and rads in the world will perform like crap with a terrible under powered pump. You will need blocks with some sort of fin or pin arrangement inside. No clue what these have but pins/fins are a must for better heat transfer. An empty cavity will do very little heat transfer and cooling.
+Chad Bremer I am going to do round two soon with an orbital sander and brackets, definitely give it one more shot.
Tech YES City Take some of my advice and you will have better results.
As we all know there's no problem spreading the compound with finger.
+Chad Bremer 1. Mixing metals is no problem, as long as zinc or aluminium aren't involved. I'm even using copper, nickel and brass in my build and chemically there is nothing that can react at all.
2. Spreading TIM or just pressing down the blob doesn't matter at all. I'm using the credit-card-spread-technique for over 10 years now and I never encountered any "hotspots" caused by "ominous air-bubbles" or anything of that sort. But you're right on what you say about the bear finger. In case you want to use your finger to spread it, just put a thin plastic bag around your finger.
3. Pump-performance is not linearly bound to cooling-performance. In my setup the best cooling performance is reached at a pump-rpm between 2500 and 3000 min^-1. Above 3000 min^-1 the performance decreases again. That means for all builds and for all watercooling loops, the best performance has to be determined by testing various scenarios.
4. The best waterblocks available 8-10 years ago were so called "Düsenkühler" (Jetcooler) that didn't have any fins or pins inside at all. I doubt that the blocks used in the video were Düsenkühler but just generally assuming that you need pins or fins inside to raise the surface area is wrong.
Please don't take this as an offense but be considerate about what you say, because every coin has 2 sides and there are numerous ways that lead to rome.
Kind regards,
Meta Custom Computers
Meta Custom Computers 1 general rule, don't mix metals. Yes, similar metals like nickel, brass, and copper are safe for the most part. But the blocks appear to be aluminium. Really bad choice since the rad most likely has brass in it.
2 agree to disagree I guess. I have tried it over the twenty years. I only ever got a bad seat with spreading. And the general consensus with everyone I know is that it's a poorest option.
3 By pump performance I am mostly reffering to having enough. If the flow is terrible, temps climb. There is a point where the faster the pump flow goes that it wont really improve anything. In extreme situations the flow can be so fast the rads can not cool the fluid effectively. But you need a some beast pumps like dual DDC or D5 for example. And less rad than you really need.
4 As for blocks, yes ten years ago some blocks just had a cavity in them. But, as we all know, increasing the surface area has a huge impact on cooling as long as good flow is maintained. Those old blocks could not even stand up to the now defunct Danger Den blocks. And you can get those or old Swiftech blocks super cheap used. Especially ones for old 775 sockets. Easy enough to Jerry rig them for a setup like this.
No offence taken. I just had to clarify myself a bit I guess.
Can't wait to see where this project leads. Keep it up Bryan, Fn luv these.
THOSE WATER LOOP DANCE MOVES !! Gonna dance like that in da club. All chicks mine! >D
normie
Not sure I've seen water blocks painted on the side where they come in contact with the cpu/gpu.
Could that also be one of the reasons they performed so bad?
Potato
+potato
+Pulse Gaming Potato
jej potato
Potato4life
Yeah Potato4life
This was a fun video! Glad to see you acknowledge the surface of the waterblock and CPU and lap it a bit. Soooo many people have no idea about that.
It's 2006 again woooooo!
2016 dud
wwiii dud
2018 dud
wow almost 43k views in 3 days. Good for you Brian. You're the most brutally honest, no holds bar, big balls tech reviewer on youtube! don't ever change man
This channel is so great. Wish I had found it earlier..
+Tekuila Gaming there's a lot of good content back there! checkout the WD blue vs black, static myth, etc! tons of bryan shit
Your channel has been growing for quite some time. You deserve it.
I will never water cool... Air is easy, cheap and worry free.
+ILL BILL NECRO k
+ILL BILL NECRO aio coolers are good aswell
+ILL BILL NECRO I would argue that a good AIO hits on all three of those items, all the while making it easier to squeeze every bit of performance out of your chips, and/or extending the life of you components (and not just the ones that are water cooled). But that's just my opinion.
+coinsagE46m3 agreed
+coinsagE46m3 If you can find a good deal on a decent AIO, then I agree, otherwise Air cooling for most people is just fine.
+Tech YES City Great video man! You've really been killing it with these builds recently, even better that you enjoy doing them so much. Congrats on all the channel growth recently.
The lighting at 1:25 means I can't see that reservoir, what were you thinking in editing!
Intentional :p
ohh... I think it makes sense now haha
Great stuff as always Brian. You are closing in on that 100,000 subs. Watching all your vids here with the old hardware, I decided to go thru my stuff to see what I could throw together. I put together a i3 2120 on a MSI z77 motherboard, 8gigs of ddr3 1866 ram, gtx 770 and a corsair gs 600 psu. I have a 250gb velociraptor. All this in a old Thermaltake case. But I still more old stuff to go thru.
You can't use your finger as thermal past spreader! Good vid.
But he did.....
+mattrc77 It doesn't effect thermals so he could.
why not
Eeroo94 There's perfectly enough thermal paste on it and there have been videos, and forum threads that have debunked that theory.
+Nate Pinkston (MC Survivalist) That theory got debunked thousands of times in so many years and still everyone is spreading the rumors, it's really insane...
Kind regards,
Meta Custom Computers
Brian I love youre videos soooo much plz keep ongoing with youre vids like u doing right now! I love it when new vids of u are comming online :D
when all else fails dance with your cooling setup
Cool video!! The fail part is excellent :D
Can't wait to see the upgraded custom WC!
2 days later, pump failure, leakage due to crappy fittings, tube corrosion, etc.
Great video as always. Always get excited seeing a Tech YES City video pop up in my sub box.
I think this video needs to be re-titled "$50 GHETTO water loop" because the people in the comments are taking this video a bit too seriously.
"I got beat; not used to getting beat"
The fact you straight up showed us what sort of worked and what didn't was AWESOME. Big thumbs up for that Bryan.
+Robert Trifts Thanks man, always going to show the bad as well cause its just as important as the good sometimes.
found the timelapse song "the son of zeus 2"
YOU ARE THE MAN! Thank you!
Great video man. I'm loving the bloopers. too funny xD
Ahhh, I was wrong in my previous comment, If I had watched the entire video, instead of skipping about, I would have noticed you did indeed use a 80% Water (2 Liters) to 20% Antifreeze (400ML) Ratio. Doesn't do a lot of good for me to recommend something your already doing lol You should become a teacher or something right? :P
+DarkLinkAD no worries, it happens, and I am already a teacher at a private high school. :P
+Tech YES City it really shows in these videos how good you are with people so a etcher would be an ideal job for you
+luke johnson *teacher
Thanks man.
hope you grow more and congrats on 100,000 subs :D
Scrapyard Wars season 5: Custom water loop for under $50
Mongolian_OW nope
Subbed! I have been missing a tech channel like this!
Minute 13:30 ? song pls ive been searching and shazaming that thing for hours. Thank you
Legends say that he still doesent know the song...
Congratulations on 100K Subscribers! (:
i'd rather just buy an all in one cooler so i dont have to plug it in another socket
1) It's just for the test, he just wanted to see if it's possible. It's actually shitty, it doesn't cool well.
2) You can't have your gpu watercooled with an aio.
This made me grin ear to ear. Well done man :D
Love your content! Should have subscribed earlier...
i admire the honesty. it really educates!
That's not exactly how you apply thermal paste
It's actually a good method. Works just as well as a dot.
Except your oily fingers make the thermal paste about as effective as using Vaseline.
Useful only if using conductive thermal paste, so you're sure paste doesn't get where it shouldn't.
But if you're using non-conductive paste, you're just making your fingers dirty for nothing.
Nice video man! Keep the content coming
how's the song at 8:20 called?
+Luca Luca What's*
+Curtis Whapshott how's is correct.
Alexandre Pinto Obvious troll is obvious.
+THEALEXD3145 Kiddo that is not your own song, atleast give credit to the original creator.
I know that it's 2 years later, but it's Oomiee - Pure Gold
Pretty sick! Congrats and keep posting
Whats the song of the first half?
Sounds similar to the song used in the Ratchet and Clank trailer, but I don't know the name to that one either, they could be the same song.
Looked it up, and its not
Rogue - Ultimatum
Alan Huynh Not the same song either
More a general feedback! The topics you are covering and the way how you do it is budget-orientated and easy to access for the public (i think). When i saw the title of this video i thought: "might be my watercoolingupgrade ;)" Moreover with this little indancemoves and the outtakes your video gained a little entertaingfactor. Keep making this videos ;)
If you're trying to be a serious tech channel please learn how to apply thermal paste properly.
he knows people hate it thats why he does it kinda think he is cool because he has the balls to do that
+cubbiefn I bet you haven't even tested my method? Also I will challenge whoever you pick to a 10 builds vs 10 builds side by side (same gear vs same gear) and whoever gets the best temps consistently wins?
The results are same. The normal recommended use doesn't usually have a full coverage when removing the heatsink. Putting too much will just overflow. I actually prefer this method he used as it does a full coverage and its fairly thin. People worry about oil from your fingers affecting thermal paste. They aren't wrong, but unless you're building a PC while eating KFC there will be no noticeable difference whatsoever. And I'm fairly confident that he's hands are clean. With all that cleaning, I have faith.
Loc Nguyen^ This, exactly, hands are cleaned with alcohol before applying.
+cubbiefn there really is no difference in thermal paste application as long as you get good temps. to much in general and it will squeeze out. do the grain of rice method and you get a dot in the middle of a square and don't get full coverage. sure you might get a bubble doing the spread method but the majority of the time that your don't get a bubble you end up with a more uniform coating with no bare spots.
there is no universal correct method. different companies have different methods. EK wants a + sign (top to bottom, left to right) and an X sign (corner to corner). Antecs thermal paste says to use the spreader it comes with.
I loved that dance at the start hahahahah
Love your ending bloopers! Do that more, funny as hell.
Yes, love the editing this time round. Great use of background tunes!
I love your work, damn he got everything...
All the content I need.
I did something similar to what you did here, but as you also mentioned I did go with a better Pump and CPU Block. I did not Water Cool the VGA, it's still under warranty so I did not want to mess with it. I used a used D5 pump for like 60 bucks, used, and a CPU Block from China, like 25 bucks.
I also made sure to use all copper for everything because I don't think Aluminum cools as well as copper and it's not really that much different in price. I also used 2 Res for a bit of added water to the loop and some Tee's with shut off valves to drain and fill my loop easily. I also purchased a Tape and Die for G 1/4 so if I need an extra port or coupling, I simply drill a hole in the Res and tap it or cut a piece of copper pipe.
I modded my D5 Pump Housing to accept G 1/4 fittings so that I could attach a Res right to the Inlet of the pump with a coupling. As I researched Aluminum it just seemed like it was too uneven on the surface where as copper was clearly flatter. I also invested in two used Rads, 240 and 360 plus fans and lastly a PWM Block to control all the fans.
I used push pull and can say my FX 8350 does not go above 35 degrees C any time. I forgot to mention I also added Temp Ports both before and after the CPU to ensure that the entire loop is within a degree or two just for shits and giggles. I am using the Asus Crosshair V Formula-Z 990FX and invested in the VRM cooler, which does not seem to do much as I don't OC much, just a bit to give it a bit of zing...
I opted for vinyl tubing to be able to see if there is anything growing in my loop. Oh, a Silver Coil is a must have, and I dropped mine in the Res so that it does not get sucked into the loop and my water is well over a year old and no growth what so ever. I did try an experiment with Glycol but for some reason that changed the color of the tubing and gave up on it and replaced all the tubing after a good flushing. In a different build I used Pass Through fittings to mod my case so that if I want to drain, add or change fluids it was really easy to do. That proved to be more problem than to seem to do any good so now I use use Tee's and shut off valves.
All is not lost on your project as you can salvage most of it, just need to up the game on the pump and maybe use a belt sander on the surface to get it a bit flatter than work it with higher grade paper to get it smooth again. I will say this about Aluminum, it is very east to work with.
I recently modded a North Bridge Aluminum Cooler from an old CPU Cooler and I am here to say I was able to use the original clip and it makes the North Bridge ice cold, barely gets warm now. It use to get hot that it would almost melt anything near by, but no more.
Cheers Mate....
I'm a big fan of linus, or rather than that actually, just a person who has come to like very much his work, sinceI'm not biased lol and yeah... Linus and Scrapyard wars (the later 2 seasons) can suck ass compared to this! very good work. rlly apreciate it :)
This is sooo awesome !
Even of it didnt work, just watching your method was amazing
Smart idea to run the loop without the PC components powered on. I don't do watercooling so this could be common practice for all i know.
You should definitely do a round 2 when it comes to the ghetto watercooling i'd love to see better blocks and a stronger pump (I think there are some better ones on ebay around $20 ill have to take a look). Used would obviously be the way to go but not everyone has access to the same parts and prices so i think using new parts from the hardware shop/ebay was definitely the way to go for this type of project.
Anyway thanks for the video Brian i really enjoyed it.
Really like this type of videos. Good job 👌🏽
Good video! And all you really need is a cpu block that has fins inside it (preferably copper). You really missed out on a quite a few big aspects tho! 1.people like to know the source of items you are using even if they may not be the best out there. 2.add all the steps in words on screen if your not going to talk about what you are doing newbies will thank you for this.
Also some notes i have for you in your water cooling, first make a few systems and test them before making a video because you will learn a lot from doing that way you make a informative video that people will like.
Tips
A. Never use your finger to spread thermal compound it will rub off the oil from your skin and make a thermal barrier. Also just use a grain of rice method for spreading your TIM let it spread out under pressure (not a lot) this will ensure your TIM fills any gaps.
B. Never use a shim just make sure the block has been sanded flat i like to make them mirror finish with 1500,2000,2500,3000 grit sand paper. you can pickup these at local bodyshop or even at a auto parts store.
C. The pump should be ok as long as the water is still moving. Just make sure you have cpu block first in loop after your radiator/pump. Also make sure your flow into cpu block is from the bottom to top that way air will work it self out.
Other thoughts. I like your tubing i'm guessing its a gas line hose of sorts very nice! The reason i like it is because the thick rubber side wall is good at sealing on barb fittings. Also it is braided line so it should not collapse on it self. Also it looked pretty flexible witch is very important when working with pc's as the parts are some what delicate. All said and done i think this can be done for under $100 or at least very close to! Ok thats all i can think of right now really nice job on the video looks clean and neat big thumbs up!
You are like the crazy scientist in the computer building comunity. I like it!
Amazing Video man! Keep up the great work. :)
Im glad you showed the problems you ran into. This might help me when I run into issues!
The floating dustball or hairball around 6:04 had me thinking I saw a little puff of smoke after power up at first.
As someone who's also built a super budget customer PC water loop 15 years ago I can tell you 2 things that have let you down despite the rest of the design being reasonably sound.
Your water block mounting. Cable ties just don't cut it. You need a solid mounting system which can apply a consistent clamping force to allow for good heat transfer, especially in a water setup where you have additional forces trying to rip the water block off the CPU / GPU
And secondly your application of thermal paste sucks. You aren't meant to paint it on with your finger, it doesn't work well like that. You're far better off just applying a single blob to the centre of the chip or a single straight line. When you apply the cooler despite not being a perfect mating surface the thermal material gets squeezed and fills all of the voids as it tries to spread and escape the pressure. Added benefit to this is that air is also expelled. The pre-spread method has a huge tendency to capture air pockets in the thermal material. It can work but first you need to use enough in the first place to actually make full contact with the water block.
Good luck if you give this a try again. :)
I don't know how many times I have seen comments about the thermal paste spreading and people blaming his temps on it, but your completely wrong, he's done multiple tests to disprove that myth also with gpus it's almost necessary
same with the cable ties
Water cooling still scares me! xD Thanks for the vid, Bryan!
almost to 100,000, nice job Tech YES City :)
TechYesCity hard work pays off, only around 2k subs and you earned the youtube playbutton.
lmao, i really loved this video, nice creativity man, keep it up!
these videos are actually entertaining
Looking forward to the new blocks and pump!
I also did a similar build for my PC because I had no money but wanted watercooling: Cheap butterfly cpu block for 10 bucks and an old aquarium pump we had around. The pump has a label on it: "Made in West Germany", not much to add I guess... A friend had an old excavator heater, so we used that as a cooler. As a water container we used a small water container from a car, where the washing fluid is usually stored (for the windshield). We had solid 50° Celsius on full load on the CPU. I later added another cooler and its now on 40° ! :D
For those that aren't sure what certain items are because of the vague description or you're scratching your head at "Battery water" or "Engine hose" and you want to walk into your local Automotive parts store and or WalMart and when you ask them they give you a funny look followed up by a half a dozen options like Heater Hose, Emission hose, EFI Fuel hose, low pressure Fuel hose, Hydraulic hose, etc, well small heater hose and even cheaper Fuel Vapor/Emission hose should do fine within these temperatures, just make sure you're getting the right diameter for your fittings, whether it's measured in ID or OD just be careful with cheap and flimsy vacuum hose that could collapse when the temps start to rise. ??Battery water?? = distilled water, you can get a gallon from Wally world for about a $1
100k here we come!
omg! nice! good work! you deserve more subscribers !
for anyone else wondering the build montage song was: l'artista (40s mood club mix).
Brian, you provide hours and hours of awesome content and entertainment!!!! What would I do without my Tech Yes City!!!
Congratulations that was project is nice!
YO THIS GUY IS THE ONLY MAN TO DO THIS CHEAP CUSTOM WATER COOLING BUILD. NOT EVEN JAY FROM JAYZ2CENTS HAS THE BALLS TO TRY THIS, HE IS SUCH A EK FAN BOY, I HAVE TRIED TO CONTACT JAY ABOUT THIS AND THEN BRIAN DOES IT THE 1ST TRY . YOU ARE THE BEST MAN!
Yet Jay uses Titans... High end stuff... You pay the replacement costs of anything that goes bang... He might do it then...
wow your production quality has gone up alot :D
awesome video mate. love your videos big fan
I like it Brian,I saw those cheap-o water blocks on eBay some time back and though if having a crack. Very good video as always : ) Would be cool do maybe use a cheap pond pump and some budget but branded blocks.
Congrats on a 100k subs! ;)
Oily fingers in TIM are a no no, and don't spread it let it do the job just put a dab in the middle you could create air bubbles. Your temperatures are bad because there is no force from those zip ties on your surfaces so the lack of any brackets on those blocks needs to be addressed. I have a suggestion and it is the way i had done what you are trying to years ago for copper/bronze blocks i had made my self for my first LCL:
Fabricate a steel X bracket to hold down the block on the CPU well (take measurements from the back of the M/B and use hard steel for the X plate you don't want those corners bending later) with 4mm holes on each tip of the x for the M/B holes underneath, find some long screws some nuts and 4 springs and 4 steel 4 Plastic washers and you have slowly made your self a much better CPU Block 4 sure.
I like you presentation keep it up and let us know how it goes!
you gotta love that dance move lol, weirdest loop I've seen but truly a nice budget cut,
Great video thanks and keep them coming.
That was hilarious Brian. Had to watch the whole video and didnt want to miss any part of it. It should have been called the Ghetto watercool solution. I really thought it would work though. Maybe you should have filled the radiator with Old English 500 or 8 ball 60oz.
In general you don't need a superb waterpump. Water can soak up alot of heat so as long there is a decent waterflow you are perfectly fine. Pumps with a "Max. Discharge head of 1.8 meters" are strong enough to deliver uncompromised cooling-performance for a average build. Off course with more blocks, 90 bends fittings and very restrictive blocks it's better to get a stronger pump...
best intro ever. 0:04
Did this many years ago - Used CPU blocks are a good idea. Can get older blocks for pocket change.
Love the video man!
This is off subject but i was totally drawn when you put the thermal paste on lol i was like holy shhit, thats a perfect square almost and he just used his finger , great video!
14:38 - 14:51 you're a genius, Bryan.