So rewarding to mod up a budget knife and make them uniquely your own. If you mess up it's no big loss, and you learn, but when you get it right it beats the hell out of a pricey off the shelf knife. Great video
Thank you so much for this very nice clip. Easy "hacks" to make an already affordable knife even better - and to up one's bushcraft game somewhat. Many thanks.
Cracking stuff. Great sheath and great how to. I have a companion but I would like to try to make one for that. As you say it looks more crafty and you can’t beat making and using your own kit and yours are always top notch Neil. 👏
I just found out that a Mora Classic # 2 will fit into a Mora Companion sheath just like a glove an is a much better sheath than comes with the Classic # 2 . Hope you find this info useful.
Excellent video as usual. One word of caution on drilling through the handle, if your knife is an older example the rat-tail tang is full length, so you cannot drill through as shown. I do like the bark sheath and have made similar in the past, but as I've said before, I've never come across anybody accidentally cutting through the plastic sheath, I have known it to happen with leather sheaths.
@@johnr.1749 Not sure exactly, but if you look at the end of the knife handle you will see a fixing in the middle on the older knives. If yours doesn't have this, you should be fine to drill through. I.E. if it looks like the one in Neil's video you're fine.
Excellent work, would like to pop one out, but I live in the deep south in The US & the birch bark here is to thin. Thank you for your time and dedication....ATB
I have been watching you for the last ten years or so, Ive seen you pitch up hammocks, tarps and tents, ridge lines, guy lines, tie bowlines, filter water to get the munchies out then boil up the water to kill the Bactria, discuss packs, make haversacks, talk about knives and kukri 's and hatchets... All good and all fun to watch but the one thing I'd like to see is, how to find water in the "wilderness" that's not in a lake, pond, river or creek ... How about doing that
I carefully blow torched the red paint of the handle on my one brushed the it with a fairly gentle brass wire brush and then soaked it in linseed oil it improved the look and texture of the handle .
I do the opposite treatment on the spine, I leave the front half as it is and sharpen the other half. I do it that way, because sometimes I use the front part with my free hands thumb, to make some controlled pushcuts., O1 tool steel on Moras? If it was a mistake don't bother anybody answer that, but If they now make them with O1, I would be really interested to get some more Moras!
Great tutorial. Since we hardly have any birch trees here, and I won't be touching any of those, I'll have a go at it with ash, those grow like weeds here. The bark is probably too thick ... but I'll try.. Edited: had to look up 'dubbin' .. I'll be using a home made bees wax linseed mixture!
You have an older Mora Classic No 1. The new ones have some kind of a metal clip in the end of the handle, which precludes drilling through the handle to add a loop of cordage. I'm considering machining a groove a 1/4" or so from the end of the handle around the circumference to secure a cordage loop. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Nice one Neil. I'm not a Mora owner as yet. I have other knives for bushcraft and think maybe a Mora would fit in now. Just in this current climate owning or going about the woods however harmlessly with a parang or Kukri might upset the law. (left me by a relative). For self defence I would use a Wahaika, however Aikido does for most of those situations. (thankfully not had to use it much). These days I'm more interested in improving my bushcraft skills, learning to improve my French and planning a long bike tour or six.
Did you clean up your fire scar? We have lots of Ray Mears wannabes coming to our local woods, cutting down trees (waist high because they are too lazy to cut lower) and leaving fire scar and rubbish around. Well made sheath 👍
Ranger bands would last longer than regular rubber IMO. Also there must be a way to fit a sharpener, magnet or a Ferro rod into the birch sheath. Just some food for thought. Nice job you did. I did the 90 degrees mod, blued my blade and adapted the sheath inside a bayonnet canvas one that was inside a ruck I bought but left it there a bit unsatisfied.
Birch bark sheaths are more difficult to dry than plastic ones. And carbon steel corrodes very quickly. Therefore, such sheaths are an emergency option. I think so.
Thank you. I have used bark sheaths for many years. I have never had a problem with rust on my moras. I periodically coat the sheaths with dubbin (a mix of oils and wax). Also my knives are worn around my neck and mostly inside my clothes unless I'm using it. Like I said rust has never been a problem for me.
The newer ones HAVE a full length rat tail tang, the older ones didn't have a full length, it was something like 3/4. The older models have a carved cross on the back and the newer models, have a diamond shape symbol.
@@greencraft4783 it seems that the red paint is used traditionally for various things in Sweden, but I prefer a natural or scorched finish. I was wondering how easy it is to remove.
That bark pimp was very nice!
I've been wanting to make this specific knife sheath for YEARS!!! Thank you for teaching me how!
Nice work! Looks so much better and more part of the style.
Brilliant! Nicely done. Thank you for sharing that! A more appropriate sheath than the plastic one, for sure.
Great video this is what I want to be able to teach my kids or other youth,Thanks!
Very cool, well done. Love it. Cheers brother.
Greetings from a Tiny Island in Maine, USA Really super job and well explained directions.
Pretty clever design for the sheath!
Thanks for a brilliant tutorial Neil!
So rewarding to mod up a budget knife and make them uniquely your own. If you mess up it's no big loss, and you learn, but when you get it right it beats the hell out of a pricey off the shelf knife. Great video
Thank you so much for this very nice clip. Easy "hacks" to make an already affordable knife even better - and to up one's bushcraft game somewhat. Many thanks.
Cracking stuff. Great sheath and great how to. I have a companion but I would like to try to make one for that. As you say it looks more crafty and you can’t beat making and using your own kit and yours are always top notch Neil. 👏
Feed the algorithm. I missed the original video. Thank you.
I just found out that a Mora Classic # 2 will fit into a Mora Companion sheath just like a glove an is a much better sheath than comes with the Classic # 2 .
Hope you find this info useful.
Great tip. Many thanks, I had an extra companion sheath just waiting for this.
@@TinyIslandMaine Thank you for replying. Please let me know if you like the way it fits.
God bless.
@@marksanders8028 it works really good. I was pleasantly surprised 👍
Great video. Very interesting.
Brilliant video! Thanks for sharing the secret!
Brilliant. Thank you
Very beautiful Sir 🔪
Great video! Thank you! 👍
Excellent video as usual. One word of caution on drilling through the handle, if your knife is an older example the rat-tail tang is full length, so you cannot drill through as shown. I do like the bark sheath and have made similar in the past, but as I've said before, I've never come across anybody accidentally cutting through the plastic sheath, I have known it to happen with leather sheaths.
How old. Mine is at least 5 years old.
@@johnr.1749 Not sure exactly, but if you look at the end of the knife handle you will see a fixing in the middle on the older knives. If yours doesn't have this, you should be fine to drill through. I.E. if it looks like the one in Neil's video you're fine.
Congrats on another great video
Excellent work, would like to pop one out, but I live in the deep south in The US & the birch bark here is to thin. Thank you for your time and dedication....ATB
I have been watching you for the last ten years or so, Ive seen you pitch up hammocks, tarps and tents, ridge lines, guy lines, tie
bowlines, filter water to get the munchies out then boil up the water to kill the Bactria, discuss packs, make haversacks, talk about knives and
kukri 's and hatchets... All good and all fun to watch but the one thing I'd like to see is, how to find water in the "wilderness" that's
not in a lake, pond, river or creek ... How about doing that
I carefully blow torched the red paint of the handle on my one brushed the it with a fairly gentle brass wire brush and then soaked it in linseed oil it improved the look and texture of the handle .
Excellent, very cool looking sheath. 👏👏👏👏
really nice !
Looks great , thanks for sharing , God bless !
love it thank you for sharing
Yes been waiting for this 🙌 love your videos thank you 😊
what is danish oil
I do the opposite treatment on the spine, I leave the front half as it is and sharpen the other half. I do it that way, because sometimes I use the front part with my free hands thumb, to make some controlled pushcuts., O1 tool steel on Moras? If it was a mistake don't bother anybody answer that, but If they now make them with O1, I would be really interested to get some more Moras!
Great tutorial. Since we hardly have any birch trees here, and I won't be touching any of those, I'll have a go at it with ash, those grow like weeds here. The bark is probably too thick ... but I'll try..
Edited: had to look up 'dubbin' .. I'll be using a home made bees wax linseed mixture!
Dude's one step closer to becoming a real life druid.
we don't have Birch here in Australia just eucalypts and acacias. can i use Melaleuca(paper bark instead?
Great job. Looks excellent. You also could make it from leather!!
You have an older Mora Classic No 1. The new ones have some kind of a metal clip in the end of the handle, which precludes drilling through the handle to add a loop of cordage. I'm considering machining a groove a 1/4" or so from the end of the handle around the circumference to secure a cordage loop. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Hi could tell me what's the most comfortable in the hand for carving the companion or the classic
Any ideas for a sheath for the mora scout knife??
No birch where i'm living, Can i replace It with strips of leather or another material or another tree bark?
I would soften out the drill-hole-on both sides that the wood-edge does not tear into the cord, maybe!? Nice mod's btw!
Excellent! 👍🏻🇨🇦
Countersink the cord hole and it will give a less sharp angle which means the cord will not be over an edge.
Nice one Neil. I'm not a Mora owner as yet. I have other knives for bushcraft and think maybe a Mora would fit in now. Just in this current climate owning or going about the woods however harmlessly with a parang or Kukri might upset the law. (left me by a relative). For self defence I would use a Wahaika, however Aikido does for most of those situations. (thankfully not had to use it much).
These days I'm more interested in improving my bushcraft skills, learning to improve my French and planning a long bike tour or six.
Congratulations on the video! Unfortunately, bushcraft is not well known in Italy. A greeting
How much is 2mm, 4mm? I tried doing conversions. All I know is that it's between 1/32", 4 furlongs, and 2 parsecs.
Did you clean up your fire scar? We have lots of Ray Mears wannabes coming to our local woods, cutting down trees (waist high because they are too lazy to cut lower) and leaving fire scar and rubbish around. Well made sheath 👍
Ranger bands would last longer than regular rubber IMO. Also there must be a way to fit a sharpener, magnet or a Ferro rod into the birch sheath. Just some food for thought. Nice job you did. I did the 90 degrees mod, blued my blade and adapted the sheath inside a bayonnet canvas one that was inside a ruck I bought but left it there a bit unsatisfied.
John, the rubber bands are temporary, just holding it together while you work on it.
Atb
Neil
@@greencraft4783 I commented too fast.
Birch bark sheaths are more difficult to dry than plastic ones. And carbon steel corrodes very quickly. Therefore, such sheaths are an emergency option. I think so.
Thank you. I have used bark sheaths for many years. I have never had a problem with rust on my moras. I periodically coat the sheaths with dubbin (a mix of oils and wax). Also my knives are worn around my neck and mostly inside my clothes unless I'm using it. Like I said rust has never been a problem for me.
So, I guess the newer Mora Classics no longer have the full tang "rat tail?"
The newer ones HAVE a full length rat tail tang, the older ones didn't have a full length, it was something like 3/4. The older models have a carved cross on the back and the newer models, have a diamond shape symbol.
Another great tip is sand off that horrible red stain and return to natural oiled birch, way nicer!
Awesome i bet that would last 5 times longer and do a better job of retaining your knife that the plastic crap they send out with the new moras
Butiful !
Can you rub down the handle and get rid of that horrible red stain?
Yes Ken , my old one had a plane (sanded and oiled) handle.
@@greencraft4783 it seems that the red paint is used traditionally for various things in Sweden, but I prefer a natural or scorched finish. I was wondering how easy it is to remove.
@@greencraft4783 Loving the Birch bark sheath, nice one.
You can strike a ferro rod with a piece of flint. Any old flint will do it. Save your blade.
Id rather use sandpaper to square a edge & leather for a sheath
Do what my ancestors did, instead of using Dubbin, use bear fat, or other animal fat to keep it soft.