So far in my 2024 Colorado z71,I've ran into is all the fuses were loose and needed to be pushed in. This was both under the hood and passenger side. Other liquids so far have been stayin at proper levels and no weird smells. I've had one issue with the infotainment where I needed to restore it to factory default as it wouldn't boot up after a few restart attempts. Currently at 2300 miles. So still pretty fresh.
Thanks for watching! Our fuses were actually good (seems rare). I'm glad that you're not seeing any issues with the fluids since they are kind of important. And the infotainment........it's glitchy but usually figures things out. Our cameras randomly didn't work the other day. Enjoy your truck! They are nice.
I picked up a 2024 ZR2 March 16 and the fuse thing was THE first thing I did after driving it the 30mi home from the dealer, because I'd seen vids of that being an issue. Like you found, almost all of them were not quite pushed in all the way. Took all of 5min to fix that, and have not had a single issue except a "knock sensor 2" error at 718mi (right before I took it to Moab for 3 days of wheeling), which was checked (checked all connections, etc. - no issues) and was cleared, and never came back. They think it was just an electrical glitch, that there never was any knocking (I certainly didn't hear any and I'm on the lookout for that in everything I drive). So far no "infotainment" screen issues or anything. I think some of the glitches in the 2023 were ironed out in the 2024. I have about 4.400 miles so far.
Sorry to see you guys having issues! I haven't had any smell of coolant, and I have a very keen sense of smell and park it in the garage, so, I'm sure I would have noticed it if there was a leak, but I need to check the coolant level just to set a baseline. It's normal to occasionally have a very light smell of it on a hot day since no system is 100% hermetically sealed (besides the A/C and even then...) because vapors are venting, but there should never be a drop in level. I took mine in for the recall for them to inspect the fuel tank to fuel pump seal, and luckily all was ok with that. They were able to inspect it without dropping the tank by feeling around up there (it was dry), using an inspection camera, and by inspecting for the smell of gasoline. They said if there's a bad seal there, you'll smell gas, and if you don't, there's a 99% chance all's good. It's an installation problem at the factory not a bad seal (itself) problem. Make sure you get it in for that inspection as it CAN burn the vehicle and possible your house down if there's loose gas that gets on an ignition source. On another note, Chevy really pissed me off because there's almost ZERO extra space under the bed for a larger tire, though it looks like there's space in the wheelwells. The Bison is touted as having "35's!" but in reality that tire (315/70/17) is actually only 34.4". So, since I don't want to put my spare in the bed, and don't want to have to modify wheelwells/flares, I'm going to see if I can't make a "34" (33.8" - 285/75/17) fit by moving the rear tire stabilizer brace back a little (may have to slot the hole slightly and shim the bracket up), move the tire heat shield out a little (slotting those holes) and insulating the shield with adhesive gold-cover insulation and wrap that part of the exhaust pipe with a couple layers of the insulating wrap (if not flattening out the pipe a little there). From the OEM 285/70/17 tire size that's an increase of a little over .550" in radius, so, not much, I should be able to massage that, and itll almost be a Bison size since that's only .600" in diameter (.300" on a radius) bigger, and the OEM width on the OEM wheels should mean it should clear at full compression since the Bison tires are 1.200" wider (dunno if the offset is the same). So, if I can fit those on, I'll be a happy camper. AND, I was wrong initially when I thought the Bison might have a different frame for the jounce dampers, it appears the "regular" ZR2 and the Bison have the same frame (makes sense, since the non-ZR2's have a different frame, why make 3?) because it looks like the frame mounts for the jounce dampers are there. So, I found the jounce damper kit (without labor) is about $2,800 from Chevy (or a reseller) and looks to include everything you need to add those, including a 12mm spacer for the rear axle for about 1/2" lift. If you're mechanically inclined and have the tools/lift (I have the former not the latter) it looks like you can install the kit yourself. I'll probably install the dampers themselves, and maybe get a 1"-2" set of lift spacers and have the Chevy dealer install the lift and align the wheels. So, basically you can have a Bison for a fraction of the cost. Yes, you don't get the skids and bumpers and fancy headrest logo (BFD), but I only want the skids (gas tank and diff plus trans are about $1,300 + labor) and I'm ok with Aluminum, and I'll keep the OEM bumpers. If I decide to do this, I'll post up. Since TY doesn't allow pics, I'd e-mail them to you so you could post them if interested. Best of luck!
Thanks for the comment! Please let us know how the tires go. I've been curious what the biggest size that could be stuffed under on a stock ZR2. The Bison math wasn't adding up for me either...nor could I justify losing more payload since we have the camper. I'm glad to hear that you're not having any coolant issues too. I have a feeling we were a rare case on that one.
@@DrifterJourney Will do! I think I will "de-rate" my towing and payload to Bison specs for safety reasons since, if you basically MAKE it a Bison, then you should for the same reasons (higher CG, more bouncy tires, etc.). I need to get under there with some .500" and 1" dowel rods to use a feeler gages and check around, and see what is going to have to move around a little to make it work. I'm not going drastically bigger, so it shouldn't be a big deal and in looking at it the tires will fit in the wheelwells. I feel Chevy did that (made fitting larger tires a PITA) on purpose to sell Bisons. There IS room under there, they just purposely put things in the way (the brace for the tire bracket at the back could easily be shorter), the exhaust pipe could be a little different. I think Jeep does a better job in that respect with the Gladiator, which needs only like a 1-2" lift to fit legit (inch size) 37's! Glad they fixed your radiator, I'm kinda surprised since they easily COULD have said it was rock damage and not covered, so, cool they fixed that, but remind me never to go to THAT dealer, as it seems they're idiots. You should make them replace that plastic shroud. Best of luck, and like I said, I'll e-mail you some pics of what I did if I do it.
@kx8960 the plastic shroud should be on order......along with several other trim type items. I may just pick them up and put them in myself to save time and a headache.
Only thing I hate more than having issues on my Colorado is having Joe Shmoe tear into my brand new truck while conducting the repair. I also had a slight coolant loss for the first 3k miles, ever since I topped it off, it stopped. At 10k miles now.
It's unfortunate when the dealer is the only one that can do the warranty work and they struggle with the simple tasks. I'm glad to hear that yours is holding strong. Hopefully it was a fluke.
Thanks for watching! I haven't seen that issue on ours but I've read about it. Check the seal around your windshield and see if it's sealed properly. Our is not but I have not had a problem yet. They are supposed to replace it under warranty next time I take it in.
![FIX or REPAIR? Radiator Failure and The Cause [PLASTIC TANKS]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/z5pCNCc8jak/mqdefault.jpg)
So far in my 2024 Colorado z71,I've ran into is all the fuses were loose and needed to be pushed in. This was both under the hood and passenger side. Other liquids so far have been stayin at proper levels and no weird smells. I've had one issue with the infotainment where I needed to restore it to factory default as it wouldn't boot up after a few restart attempts. Currently at 2300 miles. So still pretty fresh.
Thanks for watching! Our fuses were actually good (seems rare). I'm glad that you're not seeing any issues with the fluids since they are kind of important. And the infotainment........it's glitchy but usually figures things out. Our cameras randomly didn't work the other day. Enjoy your truck! They are nice.
I picked up a 2024 ZR2 March 16 and the fuse thing was THE first thing I did after driving it the 30mi home from the dealer, because I'd seen vids of that being an issue. Like you found, almost all of them were not quite pushed in all the way. Took all of 5min to fix that, and have not had a single issue except a "knock sensor 2" error at 718mi (right before I took it to Moab for 3 days of wheeling), which was checked (checked all connections, etc. - no issues) and was cleared, and never came back. They think it was just an electrical glitch, that there never was any knocking (I certainly didn't hear any and I'm on the lookout for that in everything I drive). So far no "infotainment" screen issues or anything. I think some of the glitches in the 2023 were ironed out in the 2024. I have about 4.400 miles so far.
Sounds like you got a winner! It's good to hear about folks that aren't having issues.
Sorry to see you guys having issues! I haven't had any smell of coolant, and I have a very keen sense of smell and park it in the garage, so, I'm sure I would have noticed it if there was a leak, but I need to check the coolant level just to set a baseline. It's normal to occasionally have a very light smell of it on a hot day since no system is 100% hermetically sealed (besides the A/C and even then...) because vapors are venting, but there should never be a drop in level. I took mine in for the recall for them to inspect the fuel tank to fuel pump seal, and luckily all was ok with that. They were able to inspect it without dropping the tank by feeling around up there (it was dry), using an inspection camera, and by inspecting for the smell of gasoline. They said if there's a bad seal there, you'll smell gas, and if you don't, there's a 99% chance all's good. It's an installation problem at the factory not a bad seal (itself) problem. Make sure you get it in for that inspection as it CAN burn the vehicle and possible your house down if there's loose gas that gets on an ignition source.
On another note, Chevy really pissed me off because there's almost ZERO extra space under the bed for a larger tire, though it looks like there's space in the wheelwells. The Bison is touted as having "35's!" but in reality that tire (315/70/17) is actually only 34.4". So, since I don't want to put my spare in the bed, and don't want to have to modify wheelwells/flares, I'm going to see if I can't make a "34" (33.8" - 285/75/17) fit by moving the rear tire stabilizer brace back a little (may have to slot the hole slightly and shim the bracket up), move the tire heat shield out a little (slotting those holes) and insulating the shield with adhesive gold-cover insulation and wrap that part of the exhaust pipe with a couple layers of the insulating wrap (if not flattening out the pipe a little there). From the OEM 285/70/17 tire size that's an increase of a little over .550" in radius, so, not much, I should be able to massage that, and itll almost be a Bison size since that's only .600" in diameter (.300" on a radius) bigger, and the OEM width on the OEM wheels should mean it should clear at full compression since the Bison tires are 1.200" wider (dunno if the offset is the same). So, if I can fit those on, I'll be a happy camper. AND, I was wrong initially when I thought the Bison might have a different frame for the jounce dampers, it appears the "regular" ZR2 and the Bison have the same frame (makes sense, since the non-ZR2's have a different frame, why make 3?) because it looks like the frame mounts for the jounce dampers are there. So, I found the jounce damper kit (without labor) is about $2,800 from Chevy (or a reseller) and looks to include everything you need to add those, including a 12mm spacer for the rear axle for about 1/2" lift. If you're mechanically inclined and have the tools/lift (I have the former not the latter) it looks like you can install the kit yourself. I'll probably install the dampers themselves, and maybe get a 1"-2" set of lift spacers and have the Chevy dealer install the lift and align the wheels. So, basically you can have a Bison for a fraction of the cost. Yes, you don't get the skids and bumpers and fancy headrest logo (BFD), but I only want the skids (gas tank and diff plus trans are about $1,300 + labor) and I'm ok with Aluminum, and I'll keep the OEM bumpers. If I decide to do this, I'll post up. Since TY doesn't allow pics, I'd e-mail them to you so you could post them if interested. Best of luck!
Thanks for the comment! Please let us know how the tires go. I've been curious what the biggest size that could be stuffed under on a stock ZR2. The Bison math wasn't adding up for me either...nor could I justify losing more payload since we have the camper. I'm glad to hear that you're not having any coolant issues too. I have a feeling we were a rare case on that one.
@@DrifterJourney Will do! I think I will "de-rate" my towing and payload to Bison specs for safety reasons since, if you basically MAKE it a Bison, then you should for the same reasons (higher CG, more bouncy tires, etc.). I need to get under there with some .500" and 1" dowel rods to use a feeler gages and check around, and see what is going to have to move around a little to make it work. I'm not going drastically bigger, so it shouldn't be a big deal and in looking at it the tires will fit in the wheelwells. I feel Chevy did that (made fitting larger tires a PITA) on purpose to sell Bisons. There IS room under there, they just purposely put things in the way (the brace for the tire bracket at the back could easily be shorter), the exhaust pipe could be a little different. I think Jeep does a better job in that respect with the Gladiator, which needs only like a 1-2" lift to fit legit (inch size) 37's! Glad they fixed your radiator, I'm kinda surprised since they easily COULD have said it was rock damage and not covered, so, cool they fixed that, but remind me never to go to THAT dealer, as it seems they're idiots. You should make them replace that plastic shroud. Best of luck, and like I said, I'll e-mail you some pics of what I did if I do it.
@kx8960 the plastic shroud should be on order......along with several other trim type items. I may just pick them up and put them in myself to save time and a headache.
Just found coolant on my driveway, the reservoir was maybe 1/4 full. Went and dropped it off at my dealer. Im only at 5500 miles
That's no good at all, hopefully they have the parts in stock and can get you fixed up quickly.
@@DrifterJourney They did get me in a loaner for free, but right before deer season kinda sucks
Only thing I hate more than having issues on my Colorado is having Joe Shmoe tear into my brand new truck while conducting the repair. I also had a slight coolant loss for the first 3k miles, ever since I topped it off, it stopped. At 10k miles now.
It's unfortunate when the dealer is the only one that can do the warranty work and they struggle with the simple tasks. I'm glad to hear that yours is holding strong. Hopefully it was a fluke.
Has anyone noticed moisture on the inside of windshield in the morning? 2023 ZR2.
Thanks for watching! I haven't seen that issue on ours but I've read about it. Check the seal around your windshield and see if it's sealed properly. Our is not but I have not had a problem yet. They are supposed to replace it under warranty next time I take it in.