The clamshells are easier to start the piston in IMO anyway...I use a popsicle stick if I have to use anything...but the screw driver is not outta the question for Mr either. It's whatever a person is confident in using. Love the content and look forward to much more! Take care neighbors
I have my Stihl 250C all in parts now and i wasn't careful enough when putting in the piston so one of the rings snapped... almost threw the whole cylinder at the wall xD Found your video and really nice to watch this! Also found your profile on ebay so i will buy some 42.5 mm rings from you. Thanks for the tips in this video and the others on the Stihl 250, really helpful. Subbed! :D
Ya I just snapped a ring on an ms200t taking it off the piston. I was furious bc it was the original piston amd rings barely used. Thanks for watching glad it helped and if you want to save money email me I can sell those rings outside of ebay to you and save u a dollar or 2
Putting a circlip in is one of the hardest things for me. I use a pair of small needle nose pliers to put them in. The key tool you need is a pair of Mark 1 eyeballs to make sure they are seated properly. I have developed a procedure to make sure they are seated, now.
Yes, this I have done before but I typically would have use a zip tie or cable tie (the one that releases and is reused) around the flashing or tin can etc. It works for sure.
The only specialty tool I use is the support under the piston. I have two of them and use both of them. One came with my ring compressors and the other I made with my chop saw. These give me a surface I can put the piston on and push the cylinder down. Stihl makes a wood one like I made and the other one is plastic. Dirko is as good as 1184 but the tube will harden in a few months after you open it whether it is capped or not. 1184 does not.
@@chainsawredeemer85 it does not take a lot of tools to build a Farmertec kit. I have a small plastic tote with all my needed tools in it. Some I bought, some I have made. What you need is a good procedure and methodology. I put the cases together first and then the rest. Watch Matt Olson videos on kit assembly and those of Walt (afleetcommand). Don’t ever forget to ask questions if in doubt. Walt and Matt helped me many times when I was starting out some five years ago. Now, I was a gunsmith for 30 odd years and started out building car engines 60 years ago, so I am no stoop. I also have friends that help me and I am not afraid to ask questions or seek advice. I am also a college graduate with an IQ over 150, so I catch on quick. Electrical stuff is a snap because I was a radar maintenance chief in the Corps.
If a saw stalls out after running at idle for a few minutes it is probably going into compressor stahl from to much fuel. Lean out the L jet a bit until it does not stahl out. I want a saw to run at idle a solid 15 minutes at idle. I would like for them to run a solid hour at idle but I am not sitting their watching them for an hour. My thought is - if they will run at idle for 15 minutes, they will run for an hour. The only saw that fooled me was my MAC P M 610. I had it idling and all of a sudden the rpm started going up until it finally stopped. I tried to crank it back up and it would not crank up. I finally figured it out - it had run out of gas. I had forgotten the old tell tale symptom of a saw about to run out of gas - the idle increases, because my Stihl saws do not do this. They just get slower and slower until they die.
Ya actually some of my stihls do exactly that then I'm like oh chit did I spring an air leak🤣🤣🤣 then I see it's outta fuel when it won't start again lol
I never use specialty tools to put a piston in a cylinder, unless you call the little orange Stihl screwdrivers a speciality tool. I never could get the piston to go in my set of piston ring tools to allow me to get the piston in the cylinder, easily. Usually, cylinders for clamshell designs have a beveled edge on the bottom, which makes rings go in, easily, with just my fingernails and fingers. I take my thumb nail and push the ring in, as I work my way around the piston. One hand is pushing the cylinder down and one hand is pushing the ring in. FYI, when I replace a cylinder, I replace seals and bearings as a matter of fact. I use TB 1184 to seal up the crankcase or on base gaskets, cylinders and cases. I use Red Line assembly Lube, too.
What kickback? There's no mention of saw kickback, was it blowback you heard? That's gas blowing backwards out the venturi on the carb into your air filter, I can't ratchet the video but my guess what you mesh
Love that you say you don’t like your video intro! This video may be the first inspiration for “Well, Hey Neighbors!”
My first intro was "well hey folks"
Incredibly helpful. Thanks for the real world advice!
The clamshells are easier to start the piston in IMO anyway...I use a popsicle stick if I have to use anything...but the screw driver is not outta the question for Mr either. It's whatever a person is confident in using. Love the content and look forward to much more! Take care neighbors
I never thought of a popsicle stick, that's a good idea a lot safer. Glad you're enjoying the channel neighbor!!!
I have my Stihl 250C all in parts now and i wasn't careful enough when putting in the piston so one of the rings snapped... almost threw the whole cylinder at the wall xD
Found your video and really nice to watch this! Also found your profile on ebay so i will buy some 42.5 mm rings from you.
Thanks for the tips in this video and the others on the Stihl 250, really helpful. Subbed! :D
Ya I just snapped a ring on an ms200t taking it off the piston. I was furious bc it was the original piston amd rings barely used. Thanks for watching glad it helped and if you want to save money email me I can sell those rings outside of ebay to you and save u a dollar or 2
thanks, man this was very useful this was the only vid on this, thanks
Absolutely thanks for taking the time to stop by and comment
Putting a circlip in is one of the hardest things for me. I use a pair of small needle nose pliers to put them in. The key tool you need is a pair of Mark 1 eyeballs to make sure they are seated properly. I have developed a procedure to make sure they are seated, now.
That's why I LOVE those install tools I bought. Some of the best $300 I have ever spent given how many saws I do
I use a piece of aluminum flashing and a air seal clamp and create my own ring compressor.
Yes, this I have done before but I typically would have use a zip tie or cable tie (the one that releases and is reused) around the flashing or tin can etc. It works for sure.
If you’ve ever replaced a smartphone screen, you might have some great plastic poke/pry tools in a drawer somewhere.
The only specialty tool I use is the support under the piston. I have two of them and use both of them. One came with my ring compressors and the other I made with my chop saw. These give me a surface I can put the piston on and push the cylinder down. Stihl makes a wood one like I made and the other one is plastic. Dirko is as good as 1184 but the tube will harden in a few months after you open it whether it is capped or not. 1184 does not.
You are awesome every video I watch
well thank ya neighbor
I have a half dozen Farmertec saw that I have built. They are good saws if you build them right.
They keep doing me dirty on parts and tools tho damnit!!!!!
@@chainsawredeemer85 it does not take a lot of tools to build a Farmertec kit. I have a small plastic tote with all my needed tools in it. Some I bought, some I have made. What you need is a good procedure and methodology. I put the cases together first and then the rest. Watch Matt Olson videos on kit assembly and those of Walt (afleetcommand). Don’t ever forget to ask questions if in doubt. Walt and Matt helped me many times when I was starting out some five years ago. Now, I was a gunsmith for 30 odd years and started out building car engines 60 years ago, so I am no stoop. I also have friends that help me and I am not afraid to ask questions or seek advice. I am also a college graduate with an IQ over 150, so I catch on quick. Electrical stuff is a snap because I was a radar maintenance chief in the Corps.
If a saw stalls out after running at idle for a few minutes it is probably going into compressor stahl from to much fuel. Lean out the L jet a bit until it does not stahl out. I want a saw to run at idle a solid 15 minutes at idle. I would like for them to run a solid hour at idle but I am not sitting their watching them for an hour. My thought is - if they will run at idle for 15 minutes, they will run for an hour. The only saw that fooled me was my MAC P M 610. I had it idling and all of a sudden the rpm started going up until it finally stopped. I tried to crank it back up and it would not crank up. I finally figured it out - it had run out of gas. I had forgotten the old tell tale symptom of a saw about to run out of gas - the idle increases, because my Stihl saws do not do this. They just get slower and slower until they die.
Ya actually some of my stihls do exactly that then I'm like oh chit did I spring an air leak🤣🤣🤣 then I see it's outta fuel when it won't start again lol
Good job sawrus
I never use specialty tools to put a piston in a cylinder, unless you call the little orange Stihl screwdrivers a speciality tool. I never could get the piston to go in my set of piston ring tools to allow me to get the piston in the cylinder, easily. Usually, cylinders for clamshell designs have a beveled edge on the bottom, which makes rings go in, easily, with just my fingernails and fingers. I take my thumb nail and push the ring in, as I work my way around the piston. One hand is pushing the cylinder down and one hand is pushing the ring in.
FYI, when I replace a cylinder, I replace seals and bearings as a matter of fact. I use TB 1184 to seal up the crankcase or on base gaskets, cylinders and cases. I use Red Line assembly Lube, too.
Ya if I'm in there I almost always do bearings. What brand do you like for bearings. Farmetech is descent but I don't know if i trust em in big saws
Great video, was that “red & tacky” grease in the little grease gun?
It's high temp lithium grease from advance auto and thank ya neighbor for your comment!!
@@chainsawredeemer85 Thank you
Learn from my experience that grease can get pumped into your impulse line and make you pull your hair out one day
I havent watched this video in awhile, what grease are you speaking about?
Dude if you are having kickback problems with the saw the chain needs sharpened bad or it's on backwards.!!
What kickback? There's no mention of saw kickback, was it blowback you heard? That's gas blowing backwards out the venturi on the carb into your air filter, I can't ratchet the video but my guess what you mesh
@@chainsawredeemer85 oh I thought in the video I heard you say you was working on another chainsaw that had kickback.!! Might of heard wrong.!!
@@chainsawredeemer85 my bad it was in another video I thought I heard you say that. The video must of changed before I replied that.! Sorry
No worries neighbor