"Stock Refinishing Part 1- Removing the old finish"
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This section covers what you need to do to clean the stock of your rifle for refinishing. Be sure to watch part 2 and please subscribe.
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if you have cosmoline in the stock leave, it in the sun on a hot day and wipe the oil that bleeds from the wood.
a heat gun from a distance will make the cosmoline bleed out as well.
then put rubbing alcohol on a terrycloth or microfiber towel and rub the stock down between heat gun treatments, the oil will get sucked up rapidly by the towel.
I remember buying an m91/30 in 8th grade. I watched this so many times. Must have been 7 years ago
You can just use a light coat of Krud Kutter and a soft bristled brush, say an old toothbrush, to clean the stock of any grease or oil that has accumulated over time.
The heat from the water/steam is what penetrates the wood to loosen the fibers, the Krud Kutter helps to break the finish/ grease/ oils down, and the baking soda helps bring the contaminants to the surface for easier removal. Hope this has helped ;)
You mentioned cosmoline and using this method. For cosmoline the best method I have seen is the oven (or other dry heat source...like the sun if you live in Arizona). I've done three Mosin's that way and all three finished great. No sanding, chemicals, or abrasives. Just heat and wipe, heat and wipe, until there is no more cosmoline leaking out. Thanks for the video. The iron trick is something I am going to try on an old shotgun.
im glad u guys did this vid because i want to refinnish my dads US enfield of 1917. But he wont let me sand it because of the markings on the stock and i needed a way to get the finnish off with out damaging the markings and the stock is really nice it should clean up well.
Thanks. Using Bix Stripper is the easy and straight-forward method, but I've found that using this Krud Kutter and baking soda method makes for a much nicer finish in the end. I've read that using stripper "shocks" the wood in a sense, not a good thing especially when dealing with older stocks. It also leaves a nasty residue that's hard to get off without harsh cleaners before sanding and finishing.
Excellent video guys! Krud Kutter is one of my favorite products when I clean & restore my military surp guns. I gave us using the toxic stuff years ago. Please be aware that most Russia, Yugo, & Swiss rifles you find packed in cosmoline K-Kutter will remove it just like you show in your video. However, underneath the grease the stocks are usually finished with shellac or varnish. K-Kutter will only remove about 25% of this. Acetone, denatured alcohol, or citrus strip will finish it.
"Your gonna need gloves, 'cause it's gonna get messy. Espacially if your working with a stripper"
Totally misunderstood that at first!
I have restored a WW2 Mauser Rifle with Tung oil my grandpa brought home as a souvenir from the war he took from the dead nazi it saved his life because his Thompson keep jamming during the battle. Tung oil work best than linseed oil.
Have you ever seen a Merkel 200 or 201 or 203 from the 1930s with a barrel length of 81 cm? 12 or 16 gauge. Luftwaffe pilots used these pistols for skeet shooting training. This trained the skill of taking the correct lead during an air battle.
I used some of Break Free's Powder Blast cleaner and it removed all of the cosmoline, and the old finish along with it. Nothing but bare wood left. It took a long time, but worked just the same.
I didn’t notice the author till I started watching the video. Lol. Your early years. We were a lot younger back then. Good work guys. That is why y’all have lasted so well.
The crud cutter turns it into a trout looking stock. Great job Meow.
Starting the stock project today. Bluing completed. Saved this for a long time.
I used a clean parkerizing tub with a propane heater, which keeps the water boiling, and some detergent. I stripped the old finish off with a scraper and placed the stock into the boiling water with two cups of powder detergent. The stock floats on top and the portion of the stock in the water has all of the oil pulled out. Let it float for 90 sec., then pull it out and flip it over for another 90 sec. Let it air dry for 10 minutes and begin sanding.It's a more expensive set up, but much faster.
I tried the Krud Cutter on my 1943 Mosin-Nagant. Guess my stock may have had a different finish but the K-C did not remove the finish. So I turned to acetone, using less than half a bottle I had the stock down to bare wood in 1/2 hour. Could be mine was fiinish in laquer or shellac, the acetone worked great. Did not have to mess with boiling water, or burning my fingers. Conditioned stock, applied 2 coats of stain, finish with Formby tung oil, and than couple coats of wood wax. Try acetone.
Thanks alot. I just bought an Air Arms TX200 Hunter Carbine which had some minor stock damage that was starting to bug me. I had been told how to refinish and recondition stocks but I'm more of a visual person , show me how to do something and I can do it. This series of videos helped no end. All the best from England.
2 seconds into a gun video and I'm like, "KITTEEEEEEEEEE."
Use easy off oven cleaner it draws of oil and strips off old varnish. Than rinse it in hot water than let dry. repete as needed. Easyer process.
@ tlareng
If you literally boil the stock, it can cause the wood to swell excessively and parts may not fit properly without a lot of sanding and refitting. A hot water treatment as shown won't affect the wood enough to matter. It just helps pull the stain/ grease/ oil out and also dents and some scratches. Careful though, it can also pull out serial numbers and any cartouches that you may want to keep intact.
i just found this video looking for how to refinish my rifle stock, but the dude who cant not pet the kitty is what kept me watching lol. I knew this was the video for me.
What kind of cat is recommended to go along with the mortar tub? Can someone help me, I'm stuck on this part of the process.
Siamese works best, especially when paired with an M114 Mortar.
Just get the milsurp cat even if it doesnt have matching serials. Theres aftermarket too but the ruasians produced enough cats for ww2 that you can essentially buy a crate full of brande new cats, never meowed, for irt cheap.
+Quattro 4 Unfortunately though, no Japanese milsurp cats to go along with an Arisaka. :( R.I.P.
Any pussy WILL work lol
It doesn't matter...pussy is pussy
to evanms1:Take the bare stock, put it in a sealed plastic bag, preferably clear plastic. Place it on the dashboard of your car. Park the car in the sun, hotter the better. Drive the car as usual for a few days. Texas or Arizona sun is the best. Between the sun and the glass glare the stock will sweat out the grunge after a week or so. You can actually see the results.
if you have oil in your stock, you can remove the oil by putting acetone on it
hi fellas i just wanted to say thanks for this series of videos ive actually watched it three times because i have an old over and under 12 gauge and ive wanted to bring the stock back to life and the way you have went threw every step was really helpful cant wait to start mine now. cheers and a big thanks all the way from Ireland just finish watching gun gripe i cant wait until the next video and get to the end of this series there a great help keep up the good work.
james.
12 years later and this is still my go to video
Tried KrudKutter ona a really beat up 1897 stock that somebody had gone at with a file and 80 grit. It worked great! thanks for this post.
Thank you for this upload. I have 4 rusty guns that's been sitting around since Hurricane Katrina. They're my dad's guns and I want to surprise him when I bring them to New Orleans. Been looking everywhere for some good tips. Thanks again.
How did it go
The cat is critical to the process
Reji Raccoon ;
The cat walking around the tub guarantee's it works.
Holy hell this is an old video, but quite helpful for me redoing a marlin stock. I started watching this channel in 2014 when I started getting into guns
Krud Cutter does work great on grout, since I still had a almost full bottle I cleaned the tile and grout bathroom floor, really cleaned the grout.
actually I tried some mineral spirits and a soft and ruff bristled brush, I didn't want to risk leaving that chemical on for too long so about 2-3 minutes soaked down from a spray bottle, and then the brush, after about the 3-4 time around I started to make progress and cut through all those layers of Cosmo and old finish it was tuff, but at the same time you got to be gentle. I used boiling water in between the spraying to wipe off the chemical, and at the end I rinsed off the entire stock.
Used some of that citrus based paint stripper to refinish my yugo sks stock, it worked great got a nice cherry gel stain to rub in and then applied some tung oil let fry for three to four days then added extra cherry for a darker stain.
another good way to remove the oil from the stock is to spray it with easy off oven cleaner, leave to soak for a few minutes, give it a scrub with a nail brush and wipe off with a rag. it draws the oil right out from deep in the wood and drys out fast. using rubber gloves is a must! it tends to dry your skin out too! haha
I think your cat is pissed for using the morter tub because he wants you to put the kitty litter back into it , lol.... Great job ...
When I de-shellac'd a mosin nagant I used nothing but 0000 steel wool and a toothbrush and a half gallon of denatured alcohol. It was a sticky mess but I had fun.
Just use EZ-OFF oven cleaner. spray it on, work it in with a tooth brush, let it set 5-10 mins, rinse in hot water and let it dry, then repeate 3 or 4 times. Very eazy.
If it fits...just put your stock in the dishwasher on high temp wash. and yes add soap! stripped my M44 stock like a champ!
@skiley100
Also, the only undesireable experience I have with removers is the smell which is easily counteracted with a good respirator. Krud Kutter does not contain lye, a product harmful to wood, and is why I chose to recommend it's use here. Older firearms were normally packed in cosmoline which needs a good degreasing agent to get it out of the wood, hence biodegradable Krud Kutter.
I use orengeoxie from Daller tree store. It will take it all hand greas off. No traditional wood working. From stock video's.
to get the tiger strips, proffional gun finisher scorch the tiger stripes on using a bunsen burner, but it does require great skill.
Dude, I just did my Eddystone and the stock came out beautifully. Thanks!!
i used som krud kutter then i found some old paint remover back in the workshop cabinet and omfg it worked a miracle!! now just to add some tung oil finish 5-6 times
I watched this series of videos and followed the instructions to a tee as best I could. One word of caution; at one point the question is asked if this method could be used to simply clean the stock as opposed to stripping it. The answer was this could be used to simply clean and remove cosmoline etc.... I will say that if you use Krud Kutter it WILL strip the stock. No problems for me and it worked out great but just some fyi.
David Belew ffggury gygy UK? n. uvyvgnkkuggbg.ggyhgujrhiknuooihucugyyuyyhdoohh6
Hey Bro, I tried to post a video response of my Yugo SKS 59/66 that I refinished using your vidoes as a guide. Not sure why it not showing up but I'm still new to youtube so maybe I didn't do it right. Anyway I'm really happy with the results and today I started work on my M38 Mosin-Nagant. Just wanted to say thanks for giving me the inspiration to take on this project & keep up the good work.
@Iraqveteran8888 They way I did mine was simply remove the old nasty finish with stripper, sanded a little bit with high grain paper and #0000 steel wool to get it extra smooth. Applied 3 coats of Minwax Golden Pecan stain, then sealed it with Woodoc (not available in USA) sealant. All this took about 2 1/2 days with each coat having 6 hours to dry and cure.
Now stock was only cheap pine, but I think the same results could be achieved with any old military walnut.
Oh, No! I've even heard that crud cutter is too harsh. I'm trying to study how to clean my 03 stock -- that's why I'm watching.
Yeah. Boiling water will weak those tougher finishes like the mar-shield finishes on marlin stocks, but it still won't cut it. lol. The method in this video though is one similar to what I use and works great when it comes to cleaning the stocks! Y'all make some great vids and everytime I watch one it just reminds me of how I need a better camera. lol
Many of these old rifles arn't worth a ton of dough. If you want it to be gorgeous then do it. I don't bother with all these mud bath techniques. I grab the stripper and brush it on, 6 inch section at a time. Wait 10. Scrape it with a single edge razor blade with the grain. Repeat as necessary. Steam out the dings, dents. Graduate the sanding grits out to say 150, 220, 280, 320. Lin-speed oil, linseed oil, tru-oil, whatever you decide. Take your time. Patience and more patience. It's fun!
the stripes you see are actually wood grain. Its called tiger stripping. Like I said it is the wood grain itself so you cant do that by staining.
Man look how young you guys sound and look this is a classic!!
damn this is an advanced way to finish it lol i never thought of a iron all i did was clean it used some steel wool threw some stain on it and then sealed it. lets pretty good.
My girlfriend says she agrees with you about "strippers having a negative effect on wood". ha... ha babe..
Awesome girlfriend with a sense of humor :D
I like that. Never thought of using Krud Kutter. I was just so used to Bix Stripper. Nice work!
@skiley100
These videos are geared more towards folks who are not professional furniture restorers. This method uses common household items to clean and degrease older surplus stocks, simple preparations for sanding, and a common method of sanding and finishing with stain and readily available and easy to use oil. I have no aversion to using chemical strippers, I have a couple gallons of Bix Original Varnish & Stain Remover in my shop, along with various dyes and finishes not mentioned here.
thanks!! i will try the hot water metod....tahnks again!!1
@KiwiTomCrawford one thing you could do is strip the finishput a very small amount of apoxy in the scratch then sand over it and fill the scratch in with the saw dust.you my have to do this a few times but it will get the jod done if you do it right.
In the paint dpt at HD we use krud cutter as our main cleaner
Won't the boiling water have a chance of warping the entire thing?
i would say no...i tried that with an SKS. Was originally a natural wood color but wanted it to be Ebony. Did what you said and it seemed like the stain wouldn't soak into the wood After 3 coats it looked the same as the 1st coat
Yeah, regular stripper will work ok, then sand and finish. I just prefer to use the Krud Kutter/ hot water method, it's what works for me and shows the best results IMHO.
Love you guys, always useful info
Krud Kutter is great stuff, better than 409 and only $13 a gallon at Home Depot.
@Beeyatchibus If your planning on re-selling it, dont refinish is, if you plan on keeping it though, go ahead.
You helped me refine my stock, you won yourself a subscriber. Now if only I can take my Mosin Nagant with with me to PT and basic.
Krud Cutter and this method is only good for stocks with some type of oil finish or thin coat of shellack like on our mosins. Any stock with a heavy coat of polyurethane or epoxy is most certainly going to require a chemical stripper to get it completely off. Great vid though. Always enjoy the vids man...
@OntarioPrepper stiff bristled usually means a stiff bristled plastic brush.
The cat kind of "told you" to shut up and get to work. HAHA. Nice annatation! Ypur cat is probably gun expert himself, possibly even a reincarnation of John C. Garand or something! Good channel, keep it up!
Now I just got to let it dry, I live in South Florida so 1 good day of hot sun in the low, mid 90's should be good enough. Dry it for about 36 hours I suppose. Anyways I subscribed to your channel so I can see all your Mosin nagant videos, they are all very informative. Hopefully in the future fans can just send in their parts for you to mod/fix/finish them, as a business. lol perhaps its possible.
strippers affect the wood in the wrong way, fucking hilarious
Well, they do. But only the top layer.
He was making a joke, meaning stripper as in a naked dancer and wood as in, well you know.
So was I ...genital herpes
I once have hair piece, wind would blow off head.
Personally I prefer to use Jasco stripper. Works in about 10 or 20 mins, wipe off second go, done.
Sounds decent.
yeah, for practice, everyone should dry fire krud kutter until I really need it.
Y'all have came a long way
if it's boiling water than you don't need the propane burner to heat it up ;)
Wow, such and oldie, but great video!
I knew the voice from somewhere then realized it was 8888 😂
Refinishing is great for most guns. But alot of people need to know that they can ruin the value of a rare or collector firearm by refinishing. Those items need to be RESTORED, not refinished. Big difference in $ outcome!
great video and keep them coming brother I'm doing my m44 today watching this video
I just used some fine grain sandpaper, conditioner, stain, rub on poly (4 coats), and boom.
I have an easier method for ya to try. Go to a "do it yourself" car wash and bring a 45gal trash can. Use the car soap and the high pressure washer on "hot".. works like a dream. I have done this a couple times after cleaning/struggling cosmoline for hours.
Iraqveteran8888, your process seems pretty tedious. I washed mine down with Dawn dish soap first, I then used 150 sanding paper. I then Used a Dremmel to get out the notches. I then use the scrub brush and Dawn dish soap again. I use the same color wood putty and staying in my gun came out beautiful. I was just wondering about what you think.
@uselessmayhem
A couple problems you might run into just sanding the surface down and refinishing with Tru Oil is that it may not adhere well to the previous finish, and also you don't want to remove too much wood. That's why the surface is cleaned first, to minimize the amount of wood that is removed. If you want to go that route though, I would rather see you use a boiled linseed oil applied with 0000 steel wool. Rub several coats in with at least 24 hrs dry time between coats.
Do you ever have a problem with parts fitting the stock after its been around alot of water?
I would think the wood would warp or move with the high humidity?
Are you referring to using a different removal method, such as a chemical stripper like BIX, or just referring to the Krud Cutter? As far as the hot water goes, hot water will clean anything and just does a better job than without. Also the hot water is part of the steaming method if you are doing that step.
Watching this in 2018. You guys sound so different these days.
Great video but thats a lot of work just to remove the old finish of the stock. Medium and Fine grit sand paper and some elbow grease work just fine. Use a dremel to sand the areas that you cannot get your fingers into. I had an SKS that was packed with cosmoline and when I broke it down to clean it up, I first blasted it with compressed air to remove the bulk of it and then used degreaser and a rag to remove the rest. I used my ultrasonic cleaner on all the moving and internal parts as well.
Yeah. Reloading supplies are hard to find these days... it's to the point now where its absolutely ridiculous.
This guy works for KrudKutter 😉
Most of these rifle's stocks were finished by wiping on many heavy layers of linseed oil, which was then allowed to soak into the wood to seal and protect it. What you're doing when you're cleaning the stock is drawing all of that old oil out of the wood, basically removing the protection. You'll need to replace it with something. What do folks typically use? Boiled linseed oil.
yep that's the shit boiled linseed oil will last for many decades an easy touch ups no varnishes or shellac
Very comprehensive. Question, why not just sand the old finish off?
alright will do man
Watch this with the audio off... You will learn how to make crack with nothing but a wood stock, linen and baking soda
Great video. This was actually very helpful-thank you sir.
epic refinishing time...
KRUD CUTTER.
MORE KRUD CUTTER.
KRUD CUTTER ON TOP OF THAT KRUD CUTTER.
Mmmmhhh I love watching old Eric vids
I've seen you commenting around
getting that trigger finger nice and strong with the krud kutter lol
that cat is thinking about taking a dump in the tub :-D
Wow.... this is an old video
AK47 Prepper, and you are an old comment.
@@davidsalazar50 your an old comment..