I juuuuuuust opened my furnace to check serial number. And behold, I have this leak. Same Goodman furnace. Nice to see that I'll be able to fix this myself. Thank you.
I discovered that the number 1 reason why this happens is because (hard to believe that almost everyone underlooks) the furnace is sloping the wrong direction. In other words its draining the wrong direction causing condensate to accumulate and overwhelms the gasket. Its much easier for a installation tech to level it and let it burn or leak and burn the inlet motor. But check the direction of flow of drain. It should be going away from not into furnace Furnace owners check level of furnace check what direction slope!
Wow! So much water was in my condensate drain pan, that the overflow sensor shut down my furnace. My Goodman furnace just turned 10 years old and right on schedule it's leaking at the collector box gasket. This video and all the comments are spot on. Thanks!
This video was very helpful. I had a leak for quite a while. Had several HVAC workers attempt to solve the problem but no luck. I came across this video, sent it to a HVAC guy, and ordered the part online. He took off the old one and replaced it with the new one…and to my disbelief…THE LEAK STOPPED!! ❤️❤️ Thank you so very much!
THANK YOU! I've had some short cycling the last 2 seasons and a little water ---- now seeing this I have a direction to take other than clearing tubes (which I've done). Can't wait to dive into this and hopefully fix a fairly new furnace from odd / cold mornings!
My Goodman furnace has been leaking water to the point it was getting on the flame sensor and igniter, causing it to not light. I changed this gasket and have been water free. Thanks for this video!
was just at my sons house performing maintenance since he has neglected his goodman for 4 years. he has same furnace with just a slow drip in left corner, I was going to use high temp silicone on it until I found the gasket for 15.00 online. great video.
It's usually leaking cause your secondary heat exchanger has failed, especially if condensate was backing up the entire time. The condensate is extremely acidic.
@@357-e2r pulled out those spiral pieces and inspected , super clean. Someone had the condensate drain from evap coil shoved into the little trap on the outside causing the water to backup into the exchanger. Had to completely replace all the condensate drain and run correctly. so far it's been running great, also replaced the draft inducer as it sounded like hell.
@@Danko88 Yeah as long as your secondary didn't disintegrate from the furnace condensation backing. Watch your flames with the door on if you can, if they are pushing back and turning orange then your inducer may be sucking air in through any compromises in heat exchanger. You can do temperature rise if you have temp probe and compare to mfg reccomendations. Watch for any pressure switch errors. Get some CO detectors, especially if it's over 10 years old. If you get worried about it or there's a burning smell you should have it checked and the heat exchanger camera'ed by a reputable company.
Thank you for this vid... I was just quoted $1000 to replace this gasket (leaking EXACTLY like this) and told i should 'probably replace the furnace'. Seemed completely crazy this confirms it.
Thank you for the very good information, I took my cover off and found that my gasket like most of the otters that have posted found a similar leak. Great job on the video and keep. up the good work of helping us out
Thank you so much for this video. I noticed the drip today when i was looking at mine. I just ordered the part and pizza since I'm going to save money not having to pay for a service call.
I was about to replace the seal to fix the water leak. luckily I saw your comment before I start to take apart the plastic cover. I tightening those screws as you said and problem solved. No more water leak. Thank you so very much!
Thank you, got the same problem causing short cycle, I don't have a hvac company I trust, as one of my bosses said early in my electronic career figure it out, with You Tube you can!
Just a tip, where you pulled out that inducer motor the hole in the collector box. Comfortmaker has your use to have what they called a restrictor plate in their. It would get a hair line crack causing the furnace to shut down because the pressure switch would make then drop out randomly. I have got into refrigeration since so they might have changed that over the years. However if your working on one that drop's out. Just pull the motor real quick and take a look. The plate you can just pull out with your finger no tools needed.
Wow! Thank you! This is the first video that came up after I discovered a leak on my Goodman furnace and started looking for answers. Looks like it has been leaking forever, because there is a big rust spot where it's been dripping. I can't believe they made and used such a piece of sh!t gasket on this furnace! It's not like that condensate box is under pressure, it still leaks! That gasket must've been made out of sh!t! Goodman could have used some RTV silicone on it or something. Yes, the silicone that works on a water pump for a car. Probably way cheaper to dab some silicone on it than to manufacture that sh!tty gasket. Come on Goodman! I can probably make a better gasket out of a piece of foam! Lol! Actually, I'll try to fix it with RTV silicone over the old gasket and see if that works. Don't really want to rely on another gasket...
It depends where you are and whether they replace just the gasket or if they get the whole collector box kit. For the whole kit I'd expect most to charge around $350
There's around 10 different ones depending on your furnace model and size, I can sell/mail you one if you want to email me with your make and model of furnace. Smithvac@outlook.com
good work thanks for the explanation, have a horizontal furnace with constant drip out of the black rubber coupling to the PVC (worm clamps tight 100%), vapors visible outside and trap unclogged / is draining? is silicone RTV (hi temp) the solve?
Sometimes the vent adapters have a burr/seam in them from the molding process where the rubber coupling goes on and it needs to be shaved off, it might be worth checking
I have a Goodman High Efficiency (2007) that leaks at the top of the exhaust flue pipe that connects to the furnace. The installer put a coupler over the 2" street elbow that connects to the flange coming out of the furnace. Could I use a rubber collar with clamps and get rid of the pvc coupler? Thanks
Thank you for this video, I have a Goodman furnace model: GM9S960603BN. What would be that p/n for that gasket? Could it be easier to preventatively add a layer of the high temp silicon adhesive around that plastic cover for now as my Goodman furnace is not experiencing that issue yet?
all the sudden mine blows steam/condensation out the roof vent and it has my rafters all damp and dripping in just the area from where the vent sticks out the roof. No explanation, just started doing it. Any ideas?
This is the collector box gasket, Goodman sells it as a kit called the front cover kit amzn.to/3FscBGk . Make sure its the right size (BTU) for your furnace.
I have a 2 year old Goodman gas furnace model number capf1824b6db. HVAC guy been out 3 times for leak. First time claimed drain tube was clogged. I was watching seen nothing of the kind. Second call i called him because i hear it puff back when starting. Took it apart again there was water in the tube that attaches the pressure switch. Blew it out said he was going to order a pressure switch for the puff back problem. But I believe it ‘s not root cause of the water leak problem. I saw water again on the basement floor again this morning. He’s coming tomorrow. I’m going to show him this video. Not sure if my furnace has this setup. I provided the model number if anyone has an answer much appreciated
Correct me if I am wrong. But looks like the leaks are coming from the back of the front metal plate of the secondary heat exchanger. You can see from the stains. Thanks
Question: I have the same Goodman high eff furnace. Obviously, on the right, my flue is connected and vents outside thru a white pvc pipe. On the left side, there is no pvc connected(the furnace in your video shows pvc on the left also). Did my guy forget something or is this ok?
@@SmitHVAC. thank you very much. I had the dreaded cover leak and took care of that today. Im also leaking water around the flue flange that sits on top of the cabinet(where the pvc pipe attaches). My drains seem to be clear but I cant figure out why im oozing water from that flange? Probably going to buy a new elbow and flue pipe, new flange and gasket(steal it from the left side since the flange looks like its discontinued and hard to find) then cut the pvc pipe, take it all out and replace. Is the top of the flue pipe(that attaches to the flange) glued do you think? And Im sure the pvc that attaches to the top of the flange must be glued, right? Sorry for all the questions but I just retired and feel like I can tackle this job to keep busy lol. Thanks again!
@mptr1783 your glue joint at the cabinet flange to the pvc has most likely failed. It sees more heat than any other joint so its not uncommon for it to fail at that spot. You're right, the best bet is a section of new pipe, if the glue has really let go sometimes you can work it out of the flange and clean up the flange to re use
@@SmitHVAC. Thank you very much. Im going to order the parts anyway since Im sure I'll break something then really be up a creek. Will a new white pvc elbow on top and a new flue pipe inside both have to be glued to the new flange or just the outside pvc? And is there a stronger cement youd recommemnd? Thanks again
@mptr1783 it depends on the model but on most goodmans the inside elbow and the flange are one piece, you would just glue the white pvc into the flange. You should use the recommended glue for the pipe you purchase. I typically use IPEX 636 and 636 grey glue. You may find Royal pipe more available than IPEX depending where you live.
Would RTV be as good? I see these gasket leak videos kinda often. I've got a 1995 amana aircommand high efficient 90+ with the same secondary inducer gasket. No leak yet...
hi, nice video with a useful closeup overall view. Wonder if there is a chance of you making a video showing how to connect the white rubber drip elbow to the drain trap. I am not sure how the tubing (or which one) goes inside the straight down nipple which requires knocking out or drilling through the bottom...thanks!
I’ve got a York HE with a clear plastic condensation chamber(?). It’s cracked a lot but seems not to be leaking a lot. Lower left hose on chamber goes up to vent pipe connection. Larger drain hose doesn’t seem to have water in it. When removed it’s always dry. Why? I’ve looked for blockages but I can’t see anything. Part No. 541690. Is there a replacement part for it?
Yes those clear collector boxes were notorious for cracking. I belive they had internal traps so it will only ever be a trickle of water leaving the main drain line. There is a revised part number for that collector box depending on the size of your furnace.
@@SmitHVAC. Also someone of them would not drain fast enough. My cousin had a three stage York ( I don't think they make them anymore ). The drain on his clear collector box was to small you could watch it fill up with water and back feed into shit. York sent out a new one. But they said in the mean time I could try and drill out the plastic where the hose slides on, to make it bigger lol. That being said I like clear collection boxes because you can see the operation of the unit and understand what it does and how it operates. I think they all should be clear.
I ran across an issue where Goodman didn't send the gaskets for the draft inducer motor I called up the Goodman rep because they where always wanting my feedback on units I've installed over the years and I asked them hey what's up with this they said use the red high temp silicone so every time I run into that I use it just like yesterday they didn't pack enough red gasket tape for the other side of the restrictor plate and yes I did verify contact pattern
@@OrcinusLaryngologist I wouldn't really recommend using red high temp silicone because it dries out and cracks in like 2 years better to use the gaskets
i have a weil mclain 90% furnace at work that has leaky collector box but it says model is discontinued....anyone make a universal type or aftermarket type???
New subscriber here. Awesome channel btw. So I have a Goodman that appears to have a bad collector box gasket. When the AC runs is when I notice it. Just trying to understand what the AC / collector box relationship is. Maybe you can help me understand that? Thanks!
You shouldn't have any water coming from the collector box when the Ac is running, they are not connected. It's possible you have a plugged drain line somewhere in the system and the condensation from the evaporator coil is backing up and leaking into the furnace
@@SmitHVAC. I've cleared the drain line and can confirm a good amount of water is draining through it from the coil pan. Still there is water pooling on the floor during AC operation. And it looks like water is coming from the bottom right area of the collector box seal. Thank you very much! Greatly appreciated.
@@sprocket374 I have seen old goodmans where the drain pain cracked and it was leaking down inside the furnace, could possibly come through the collector box area if that is the case
I juuuuuuust opened my furnace to check serial number. And behold, I have this leak. Same Goodman furnace. Nice to see that I'll be able to fix this myself. Thank you.
I discovered that the number 1 reason why this happens is because (hard to believe that almost everyone underlooks) the furnace is sloping the wrong direction. In other words its draining the wrong direction causing condensate to accumulate and overwhelms the gasket.
Its much easier for a installation tech to level it and let it burn or leak and burn the inlet motor. But check the direction of flow of drain. It should be going away from not into furnace
Furnace owners check level of furnace check what direction slope!
Wow! So much water was in my condensate drain pan, that the overflow sensor shut down my furnace. My Goodman furnace just turned 10 years old and right on schedule it's leaking at the collector box gasket. This video and all the comments are spot on. Thanks!
This video was very helpful. I had a leak for quite a while. Had several HVAC workers attempt to solve the problem but no luck. I came across this video, sent it to a HVAC guy, and ordered the part online. He took off the old one and replaced it with the new one…and to my disbelief…THE LEAK STOPPED!! ❤️❤️ Thank you so very much!
Where did you order the gasket from?
Ty! The hardest part of the job was waiting for the new gasket.
THANK YOU! I've had some short cycling the last 2 seasons and a little water ---- now seeing this I have a direction to take other than clearing tubes (which I've done). Can't wait to dive into this and hopefully fix a fairly new furnace from odd / cold mornings!
Great Video. I woke up to a cold home. I opened the front panel and can see similar issues with my furnace.
My Goodman furnace has been leaking water to the point it was getting on the flame sensor and igniter, causing it to not light. I changed this gasket and have been water free. Thanks for this video!
was just at my sons house performing maintenance since he has neglected his goodman for 4 years. he has same furnace with just a slow drip in left corner, I was going to use high temp silicone on it until I found the gasket for 15.00 online. great video.
Where online did you find it ?
@@brendanbland9571 probably goodman parts or supplyhouse or hvacdirect, even amazon sometimes
It's usually leaking cause your secondary heat exchanger has failed, especially if condensate was backing up the entire time. The condensate is extremely acidic.
@@357-e2r pulled out those spiral pieces and inspected , super clean. Someone had the condensate drain from evap coil shoved into the little trap on the outside causing the water to backup into the exchanger. Had to completely replace all the condensate drain and run correctly. so far it's been running great, also replaced the draft inducer as it sounded like hell.
@@Danko88 Yeah as long as your secondary didn't disintegrate from the furnace condensation backing. Watch your flames with the door on if you can, if they are pushing back and turning orange then your inducer may be sucking air in through any compromises in heat exchanger. You can do temperature rise if you have temp probe and compare to mfg reccomendations. Watch for any pressure switch errors. Get some CO detectors, especially if it's over 10 years old. If you get worried about it or there's a burning smell you should have it checked and the heat exchanger camera'ed by a reputable company.
Thank you for this vid... I was just quoted $1000 to replace this gasket (leaking EXACTLY like this) and told i should 'probably replace the furnace'. Seemed completely crazy this confirms it.
Yea that's crazy, sounds like the white shirt corporation guys tried to pull a fast one on you
My hvac company quoted me $1609.
Wow
Thanks. You weren't lying about the old gasket. Took me 30 mins to scrape it off
Thank you for the very good information, I took my cover off and found that my gasket like most of the otters that have posted found a similar leak. Great job on the video and keep. up the good work of helping us out
Thank you so much for this video. I noticed the drip today when i was looking at mine. I just ordered the part and pizza since I'm going to save money not having to pay for a service call.
Glad the video helped you, thanks for watching!
Thanks for posting! My three year old GMEC Goodman is doing this and can't get installer to fix.
Good info. I've seen that a lot on Goodman 90 plus. Might try tightening the screws before replacing everything.
I was about to replace the seal to fix the water leak. luckily I saw your comment before I start to take apart the plastic cover. I tightening those screws as you said and problem solved. No more water leak. Thank you so very much!
thank you for posting this, have same issue and about to attempt this. but always great to watch it done before hand :)
Good luck, it's pretty straight forward!
Thank you, got the same problem causing short cycle, I don't have a hvac company I trust, as one of my bosses said early in my electronic career figure it out, with You Tube you can!
So the fix was two seals, one which you pealed off at 3:42, and second the circular one you replaced at 4:28?
Yes, it's all included in the kit
Just a tip, where you pulled out that inducer motor the hole in the collector box. Comfortmaker has your use to have what they called a restrictor plate in their. It would get a hair line crack causing the furnace to shut down because the pressure switch would make then drop out randomly. I have got into refrigeration since so they might have changed that over the years. However if your working on one that drop's out. Just pull the motor real quick and take a look. The plate you can just pull out with your finger no tools needed.
That's a good tip! I'm familiar with the restrictor disks but I haven't come across a cracked one
Wow! Thank you! This is the first video that came up after I discovered a leak on my Goodman furnace and started looking for answers. Looks like it has been leaking forever, because there is a big rust spot where it's been dripping. I can't believe they made and used such a piece of sh!t gasket on this furnace! It's not like that condensate box is under pressure, it still leaks! That gasket must've been made out of sh!t! Goodman could have used some RTV silicone on it or something. Yes, the silicone that works on a water pump for a car. Probably way cheaper to dab some silicone on it than to manufacture that sh!tty gasket. Come on Goodman! I can probably make a better gasket out of a piece of foam! Lol! Actually, I'll try to fix it with RTV silicone over the old gasket and see if that works. Don't really want to rely on another gasket...
Thank you so much. I have the same problem
thank you!! With inflation so high, this is going to save me some money.
Thanks bro that was a big help 👍
Great video 👍🏻
If I had a technician out to replace the collector box, what should that cost?
It depends where you are and whether they replace just the gasket or if they get the whole collector box kit. For the whole kit I'd expect most to charge around $350
Awesome. I have this same furnace with this same problem. Where did you get the gasket??????? Please help
There's around 10 different ones depending on your furnace model and size, I can sell/mail you one if you want to email me with your make and model of furnace. Smithvac@outlook.com
good work thanks for the explanation, have a horizontal furnace with constant drip out of the black rubber coupling to the PVC (worm clamps tight 100%), vapors visible outside and trap unclogged / is draining? is silicone RTV (hi temp) the solve?
Sometimes the vent adapters have a burr/seam in them from the molding process where the rubber coupling goes on and it needs to be shaved off, it might be worth checking
I have a Goodman High Efficiency (2007) that leaks at the top of the exhaust flue pipe that connects to the furnace. The installer put a coupler over the 2" street elbow that connects to the flange coming out of the furnace. Could I use a rubber collar with clamps and get rid of the pvc coupler? Thanks
Thank you for this video, I have a Goodman furnace model: GM9S960603BN. What would be that p/n for that gasket? Could it be easier to preventatively add a layer of the high temp silicon adhesive around that plastic cover for now as my Goodman furnace is not experiencing that issue yet?
Nice video. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks! Didn't expect to see you here, I'm subscribed to your channel!
all the sudden mine blows steam/condensation out the roof vent and it has my rafters all damp and dripping in just the area from where the vent sticks out the roof. No explanation, just started doing it. Any ideas?
No nothing comes to mind, sounds strange!
Please help what is the name of this gasket where I can get it. My furnace is same and issue is same. I am from Canada.Please and thank you.
This is the collector box gasket, Goodman sells it as a kit called the front cover kit amzn.to/3FscBGk . Make sure its the right size (BTU) for your furnace.
Nice job 👍
Good luck Bro!!!
Appreciate it!
I have a 2 year old Goodman
gas furnace model number capf1824b6db. HVAC guy been out 3 times for leak. First time claimed drain tube was clogged. I was watching seen nothing of the kind. Second call i called him because i hear it puff back when starting. Took it apart again there was water in the tube that attaches the pressure switch. Blew it out said he was going to order a pressure switch for the puff back problem. But I believe it ‘s not root cause of the water leak problem. I saw water again on the basement floor again this morning. He’s coming tomorrow. I’m going to show him this video. Not sure if my furnace has this setup. I provided the model number if anyone has an answer much appreciated
That looks like the model number for an evaporator coil, your furnace model number will be inside the furnace top door
Ok tech is coming tomorrow will definitely show him this video since he already took apart the drain box not the condensate pump. Has to be this.
@@bccicone Hopefully that fixes it. The puff back sound is very common on a Goodman, nothing to worry about.
@@SmitHVAC. thx appreciate your response
What is that magnetic light that you use in the furnace? Would love to know. Thanks
That's an older model, I don't see it on Amazon but I have since upgraded to this one and it's awesome. amzn.to/3vv19Z2
Correct me if I am wrong. But looks like the leaks are coming from the back of the front metal plate of the secondary heat exchanger. You can see from the stains. Thanks
It does look that way, but it's just dripping off the lip of the secondary and running down the back
So it’s just the gasket that needs replaced?
Usually, yes. Sometimes the collector box cracks. It's also sold as a kit but you can sometimes find the gasket only online.
Question: I have the same Goodman high eff furnace. Obviously, on the right, my flue is connected and vents outside thru a white pvc pipe. On the left side, there is no pvc connected(the furnace in your video shows pvc on the left also). Did my guy forget something or is this ok?
Left side is the fresh air intake pipe, not a huge deal if its missing but there are some benefits to pulling your combustion air from outside
@@SmitHVAC. thank you very much. I had the dreaded cover leak and took care of that today. Im also leaking water around the flue flange that sits on top of the cabinet(where the pvc pipe attaches). My drains seem to be clear but I cant figure out why im oozing water from that flange? Probably going to buy a new elbow and flue pipe, new flange and gasket(steal it from the left side since the flange looks like its discontinued and hard to find) then cut the pvc pipe, take it all out and replace. Is the top of the flue pipe(that attaches to the flange) glued do you think? And Im sure the pvc that attaches to the top of the flange must be glued, right? Sorry for all the questions but I just retired and feel like I can tackle this job to keep busy lol. Thanks again!
@mptr1783 your glue joint at the cabinet flange to the pvc has most likely failed. It sees more heat than any other joint so its not uncommon for it to fail at that spot. You're right, the best bet is a section of new pipe, if the glue has really let go sometimes you can work it out of the flange and clean up the flange to re use
@@SmitHVAC. Thank you very much. Im going to order the parts anyway since Im sure I'll break something then really be up a creek. Will a new white pvc elbow on top and a new flue pipe inside both have to be glued to the new flange or just the outside pvc? And is there a stronger cement youd recommemnd? Thanks again
@mptr1783 it depends on the model but on most goodmans the inside elbow and the flange are one piece, you would just glue the white pvc into the flange. You should use the recommended glue for the pipe you purchase. I typically use IPEX 636 and 636 grey glue. You may find Royal pipe more available than IPEX depending where you live.
Would RTV be as good? I see these gasket leak videos kinda often. I've got a 1995 amana aircommand high efficient 90+ with the same secondary inducer gasket. No leak yet...
It will work but if it springs a leak down the road it's a lot harder to remove
@Jerrys.garage my old one had rusted from the leak so the gasket wouldn't cut it. Rtv took care of it. Gasket is definitely easier if it works.
Where can you buy the gasket, and part number?
@@Constructiongal827 part number is dependent on model / serial #
@@SmitHVAC. GMSS921004CN. I'll have to see if I can find a serial number on it, it isn't obvious.
hi, nice video with a useful closeup overall view. Wonder if there is a chance of you making a video showing how to connect the white rubber drip elbow to the drain trap. I am not sure how the tubing (or which one) goes inside the straight down nipple which requires knocking out or drilling through the bottom...thanks!
If I come across another one in the next few days I'll send you a picture
I’ve got a York HE with a clear plastic condensation chamber(?). It’s cracked a lot but seems not to be leaking a lot. Lower left hose on chamber goes up to vent pipe connection. Larger drain hose doesn’t seem to have water in it. When removed it’s always dry. Why? I’ve looked for blockages but I can’t see anything. Part No. 541690. Is there a replacement part for it?
Yes those clear collector boxes were notorious for cracking. I belive they had internal traps so it will only ever be a trickle of water leaving the main drain line. There is a revised part number for that collector box depending on the size of your furnace.
@@SmitHVAC. : BTU Size?
@@sandymilne224Yes it would be dependent on the model number
@@SmitHVAC. Also someone of them would not drain fast enough. My cousin had a three stage York ( I don't think they make them anymore ). The drain on his clear collector box was to small you could watch it fill up with water and back feed into shit. York sent out a new one. But they said in the mean time I could try and drill out the plastic where the hose slides on, to make it bigger lol. That being said I like clear collection boxes because you can see the operation of the unit and understand what it does and how it operates. I think they all should be clear.
@@wd8557 I like the idea of the clear collectors too! It's just a shame they all cracked lol
I ran across an issue where Goodman didn't send the gaskets for the draft inducer motor I called up the Goodman rep because they where always wanting my feedback on units I've installed over the years and I asked them hey what's up with this they said use the red high temp silicone so every time I run into that I use it just like yesterday they didn't pack enough red gasket tape for the other side of the restrictor plate and yes I did verify contact pattern
What’s the contact pattern for application? A squiggle I’m assuming?
@@OrcinusLaryngologist I wouldn't really recommend using red high temp silicone because it dries out and cracks in like 2 years better to use the gaskets
Was that a low BTU unit? I was thinking the lower BTU is the more reliable it is.
70k
i have a weil mclain 90% furnace at work that has leaky collector box but it says model is discontinued....anyone make a universal type or aftermarket type???
Not that I'm aware of. You may have to go the RTV or silicone route unfortunately
how much is this repair?
Depends where you are, $250 - $400 would be average. Depends if they get just the gasket or the whole kit.
How about using silicone gasket maker instead??
That might work, but technically it should be the manufacturer approved gasket
High temp silicone works just fine
New subscriber here. Awesome channel btw. So I have a Goodman that appears to have a bad collector box gasket. When the AC runs is when I notice it. Just trying to understand what the AC / collector box relationship is. Maybe you can help me understand that? Thanks!
You shouldn't have any water coming from the collector box when the Ac is running, they are not connected. It's possible you have a plugged drain line somewhere in the system and the condensation from the evaporator coil is backing up and leaking into the furnace
@@SmitHVAC. I've cleared the drain line and can confirm a good amount of water is draining through it from the coil pan. Still there is water pooling on the floor during AC operation. And it looks like water is coming from the bottom right area of the collector box seal. Thank you very much! Greatly appreciated.
@@sprocket374 I have seen old goodmans where the drain pain cracked and it was leaking down inside the furnace, could possibly come through the collector box area if that is the case
So, where was the water coming from?
The collector box seal
The drain could have blockage too
High temp silicone. better than that gasket
Maybe, but it's not approved by the manufacturer, so you would be liable for anything that happened as a result of modifying the appliance.
@@SmitHVAC.
I get it. Welcome to owning a business. Liability
Actually there is just warm water, so you can use any low temp silicon
I hate 90s