Nice video. For this - filter molecular sieve inside is the best option when You want to charge your PCP. Activatet charcoal is best option when You want to remove smell of oil for breathing apparatus but it's not our the problem in PCP. Desiccant is not quite fast as molecular sieve. So fill all filter with molecular sieve and remember to use it vertically and to put below valve to remove water/oil after each 10 minutes.
Great video except for one thing. Always pump from the bottom and discharge from the top. I believe you hook your water lines up the other way. The reason for pumping to the bottom and discharging out the top is to make sure that there's absolutely no air Within the water jacket.
You have to use the bottom input for the water to go into. This forces the air to bubble up and come out of the top output. If reversed, you will have air trapped at the top, no cooling water, and possible overheating. When hooked up correctly you will have a solid jacket of water surrounding the cylinder with no air pockets.
Another reason I prefer a compressor without auto shut off is that you really want to open the bleed valves before the compressor is shut off, which the auto shut off doesn’t allow. There’s a tremendous amount of back pressure still retained in the system putting stress on compressor parts, so you want those bleed valves opened before shut down.
I’m not sure what you mean by the auto shut off does it allow you to manually bleed the air in the lines? The bleed valves are manually operated and you can set the pressure to any psi and bleed it as you please. The pressure regulator is only four if you leave it on and forget to turn it off on time it will trip the circuit as an additional safety measure. For the amount of use I will be using this compressor it should last a while and it is it expensive to repair either so spare parts should be purchased an advance just in case. Which I should purchase come to think of it 😳
With the auto shut off the compressor will shut off then you’ll bleed off the air in the system. What I think would be optimal would be to open the bleed valves first, then shut off the compressor. Strictly for the longevity of the compressor.
@@cheapairgunner1966 mine still has manual bleeds and has auto shutoff without interruption if I bleed out first. If (I didn’t know) they have electronic bleed valves or solenoids they might be able to be wired in differently to pop before; maybe by adding an additional pressure switch that pops the valve and not kills the compressor yet.
Good video. I like seeing how others are setting up their YH. They're good compressors no doubt. Like anything else they just need to be taken care of properly and they'll last. Not forever though. They do have a limited life.
Oh and it was packaged VERY well. It's solid. I sit my compressor on the lid upside down and put the box back over when not in use. Of course I have to take off my fill whip and wrap the power cord and water lines around it.
I agree, for the small amount of use I need it for it works great! Hopefully ill have a air station once I move since everything has been hectic so have my projects and plans to build up a shop.
Hey I guess you don't know , but the probe goes directly to the main head. There's a hole on the back side that you insert the probe,fits nice and is accurate
Thanks! I really didn’t use it because I have a thermal gun. I’m thinking getting a good timer that regulates how many work hours I’ve used it for to keep track of replacing all the fluids will go in the cutout.
@@ProjectAnubisUSA I'm new to pcp, but a long time air gunner! I'm watching all sorts of videos, these things are very accurate, but the hand pump sucks!!!! This pump is awsome! Hands down, the best 350$ I've spent in a long time! 250 bar in about 15 min. That's about 3250 psi, love it , and my back thanks you!!!
Really good video Many thanks for the info! Could you explain if i need to put the small white o ring type membrane (thats in the bag of bits) between the compressor assembly female threaded hole and the output hose male connection thread? You have a pool. Just stick the pump and return in there Job done.
Thank you! I'm not sure what your referring to since I haven't taken mine apart. I have see an awesome source of information before purchasing from this guy: th-cam.com/video/udwo5DMBMzE/w-d-xo.html He would be a good source. Also some key areas www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=137796.0 Hope this helps
@@ProjectAnubisUSA Many Thanks for getting intouch. The link showing the compressor www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=137796.0 has a post showing the parts of the Compressor. I'm taking about the high pressure hole that the hose connects to. Is there a washer required between the hose male connector and the high pressure threaded hole? or do you simply screw the hose into the threaded hole?
Hello. I just want to know about the lube and the cooling fluid that you are using. Kindly message the type of lube/cooling and perhaps the brand. Thank you.
Royal purple ICE helps keep the water cool when running the compressor since your relying on water flow to wick away heat which is why a bigger pump and water container is also a good upgrade. It also gives you corrosion protection for the materials used in this specific motor keep in mind aluminum and steel requires certain additives to keep from water degrading over time. Some chemicals additives will attack metals so do your research; this additive prevents buildup in your water jackets which can generate heat extraction efficiency. Think of it like antifreeze for your car that helps regulate a constant temperature. You can also use actual ice 🧊, you just want to keep the temperature down but be prepared for potential calcium and rust buildup from pure water. Royal purple 💯 compressor oil because it’s keeps the motor quiet and better lubricant to helps the cheaper designed motor continue to run good. Or vg46 or aw46 as recommended from factory
There is a lot of builds on TH-cam showing the stuff to upgrade but if you seek a tear down video look up sambo cotton he has a full rebuild video series.
I don’t know what that is. If you have an adapter or replumb the hose it will fill anything that needs up to 4500 psi of air. It will need good filters but this air is not recommended for human consumption
@@alitoroganan2442 it needs to be highly filtered with charcoal for odor and moisture removal filters which will stress this small pump especially in a large tank it will require intervals and time. Scuba pumps are oil free I believe to avoid toxic potential air.
@@alitoroganan2442 GX CS3 PCP Air Compressor, Auto-Stop,Oil-Free, Built-in Water-Oil Separator Filter, Powered by Car 12V DC or Home 110V AC, 4500Psi/30Mpa,Paintball/Scuba Tank Compressor Pump
As you can see they show only a small tank to be filled. You need a big pump for the larger tank or at least it’s recommended to prevent premature wear
Aliexpress You have to search through the postings. They post some cheap and charge $200 shipping so you have to look closely. Some places post multiple times to see who just buys and the prices are lower than others.
Nice video. For this - filter molecular sieve inside is the best option when You want to charge your PCP. Activatet charcoal is best option when You want to remove smell of oil for breathing apparatus but it's not our the problem in PCP. Desiccant is not quite fast as molecular sieve. So fill all filter with molecular sieve and remember to use it vertically and to put below valve to remove water/oil after each 10 minutes.
Great video except for one thing. Always pump from the bottom and discharge from the top. I believe you hook your water lines up the other way. The reason for pumping to the bottom and discharging out the top is to make sure that there's absolutely no air Within the water jacket.
You have to use the bottom input for the water to go into. This forces the air to bubble up and come out of the top output. If reversed, you will have air trapped at the top, no cooling water, and possible overheating. When hooked up correctly you will have a solid jacket of water surrounding the cylinder with no air pockets.
Another reason I prefer a compressor without auto shut off is that you really want to open the bleed valves before the compressor is shut off, which the auto shut off doesn’t allow. There’s a tremendous amount of back pressure still retained in the system putting stress on compressor parts, so you want those bleed valves opened before shut down.
I’m not sure what you mean by the auto shut off does it allow you to manually bleed the air in the lines? The bleed valves are manually operated and you can set the pressure to any psi and bleed it as you please. The pressure regulator is only four if you leave it on and forget to turn it off on time it will trip the circuit as an additional safety measure. For the amount of use I will be using this compressor it should last a while and it is it expensive to repair either so spare parts should be purchased an advance just in case. Which I should purchase come to think of it 😳
With the auto shut off the compressor will shut off then you’ll bleed off the air in the system. What I think would be optimal would be to open the bleed valves first, then shut off the compressor. Strictly for the longevity of the compressor.
@@cheapairgunner1966 mine still has manual bleeds and has auto shutoff without interruption if I bleed out first. If (I didn’t know) they have electronic bleed valves or solenoids they might be able to be wired in differently to pop before; maybe by adding an additional pressure switch that pops the valve and not kills the compressor yet.
are you sitting there watching it fill a 80+ CF tank?
I have two 90 ci tanks, nothing close to 80 cf
Good video. I like seeing how others are setting up their YH. They're good compressors no doubt. Like anything else they just need to be taken care of properly and they'll last. Not forever though. They do have a limited life.
Oh and it was packaged VERY well. It's solid. I sit my compressor on the lid upside down and put the box back over when not in use. Of course I have to take off my fill whip and wrap the power cord and water lines around it.
I agree, for the small amount of use I need it for it works great! Hopefully ill have a air station once I move since everything has been hectic so have my projects and plans to build up a shop.
Hey I guess you don't know , but the probe goes directly to the main head. There's a hole on the back side that you insert the probe,fits nice and is accurate
Thanks! I really didn’t use it because I have a thermal gun. I’m thinking getting a good timer that regulates how many work hours I’ve used it for to keep track of replacing all the fluids will go in the cutout.
@@ProjectAnubisUSA I'm new to pcp, but a long time air gunner! I'm watching all sorts of videos, these things are very accurate, but the hand pump sucks!!!! This pump is awsome! Hands down, the best 350$ I've spent in a long time! 250 bar in about 15 min. That's about 3250 psi, love it , and my back thanks you!!!
Nice video
Schaeffer's oil may be worth looking into, it will edge out Royal Purple in comparison.
The temperature probe goes into a small hole at the back of the cylinder head...
I didn't really spend too much time that day inspecting it because I was trying to get my tanks filled. Thanks for updating us though
Really good video Many thanks for the info!
Could you explain if i need to put the small white o ring type membrane (thats in the bag of bits) between the compressor assembly female threaded hole and the output hose male connection thread?
You have a pool. Just stick the pump and return in there Job done.
Thank you!
I'm not sure what your referring to since I haven't taken mine apart. I have see an awesome source of information before purchasing from this guy:
th-cam.com/video/udwo5DMBMzE/w-d-xo.html
He would be a good source.
Also some key areas
www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=137796.0
Hope this helps
@@ProjectAnubisUSA Many Thanks for getting intouch.
The link showing the compressor www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=137796.0
has a post showing the parts of the Compressor.
I'm taking about the high pressure hole that the hose connects to. Is there a washer required between the hose male connector and the high pressure threaded hole? or do you simply screw the hose into the threaded hole?
Yup almost all oils will ignite under high pressure just like diesel does.
Great content! Cheers!
Hello. I just want to know about the lube and the cooling fluid that you are using. Kindly message the type of lube/cooling and perhaps the brand. Thank you.
Royal purple ICE helps keep the water cool when running the compressor since your relying on water flow to wick away heat which is why a bigger pump and water container is also a good upgrade. It also gives you corrosion protection for the materials used in this specific motor keep in mind aluminum and steel requires certain additives to keep from water degrading over time. Some chemicals additives will attack metals so do your research; this additive prevents buildup in your water jackets which can generate heat extraction efficiency. Think of it like antifreeze for your car that helps regulate a constant temperature. You can also use actual ice 🧊, you just want to keep the temperature down but be prepared for potential calcium and rust buildup from pure water.
Royal purple 💯 compressor oil because it’s keeps the motor quiet and better lubricant to helps the cheaper designed motor continue to run good.
Or vg46 or aw46 as recommended from factory
Dont lubricate the bonnet orings its not necessary
Would a coolant do the same instead of ice?
Drop the link to where u got it at 180
Look at Tim Hill’s comment I explain it and another person found another deal.
I just bought one of these. A good compressor. But the owners manual stinks. It tells you nothing on how to work everything.
There is a lot of builds on TH-cam showing the stuff to upgrade but if you seek a tear down video look up sambo cotton he has a full rebuild video series.
will this work on those nano system bottles, like nitrous pusher, thanks
I don’t know what that is. If you have an adapter or replumb the hose it will fill anything that needs up to 4500 psi of air. It will need good filters but this air is not recommended for human consumption
@@ProjectAnubisUSA what about scuba
@@alitoroganan2442 it needs to be highly filtered with charcoal for odor and moisture removal filters which will stress this small pump especially in a large tank it will require intervals and time. Scuba pumps are oil free I believe to avoid toxic potential air.
@@alitoroganan2442 GX CS3 PCP Air Compressor, Auto-Stop,Oil-Free, Built-in Water-Oil Separator Filter, Powered by Car 12V DC or Home 110V AC, 4500Psi/30Mpa,Paintball/Scuba Tank Compressor Pump
As you can see they show only a small tank to be filled. You need a big pump for the larger tank or at least it’s recommended to prevent premature wear
where did you buy it for 180
AliExpress, search through the listings. Also sometimes they give coupon options for certain sellers
What battery’s go in the temp gauge?
Dang I never checked, it should have them installed just maybe a strip removal... a google search should answer this easily
@@ProjectAnubisUSA found it thank you!
LR44. I couldn't find them local. They're an old alkaline style battery. Bought 15 of them on Walmart website for like 6 dollars.
Where u get it for 185?
Aliexpress
You have to search through the postings. They post some cheap and charge $200 shipping so you have to look closely. Some places post multiple times to see who just buys and the prices are lower than others.
Go to Pinty Scopes use code 704TACTICAL
get it for $230. Fast delivery no hassle, great price
C x 1.8 + 32 = F
180 shipped????
Look at Tim Hills comment, I explain it there and another person found another deal
AliExpress and yes or it was like $20 it’s been awhile but it was a good deal