I've a Chevy 350 with Rochester Q-Jet, my favorite carb of all time. It came with the engine, no mucking around to tune up etc etc etc. Idles well, good mid-range and those huge secondaries help a lot when needed. I've tried everything else, just not for me.
Did you ever try that q jet on an aftermarket intake and a mild build? I have a very good q jet on a bone stock 1976 vette and am thinking about heads cam, you know the build. That q jet do ok for you?
@@hankjones2975 I'm going to start building another of my customer's 1987 Chev 350 mild performance cam and aftermarket intake, headers all with Q-Jet for a daily runner use in heavy traffic and steaming hot weather
My new Holley 4160-3310 750 cfm was set up pretty close out of the box. I did however set the idle , checked air/fuel adjust screws (1 1/2) Wired up the elect choke. Started right up, let it warm up and put my vacuum gauge on it and tweaked it. I fattened it up a tad and am ordering a A/F ratio gauge from Summit also. Will adjust it when I am done with that if it needs it. Thanks Brian (hope that is your name). Just love the solid info you share with us weekend mechanics.
Yup. Keep tuning! You’ll find the sweet spot with an AFR. Thanks again for the kind words. Very much appreciated and I’m thankful it’s been useful to you!
Most carbs with run and probably be a little fat. I was tuning an Edelbrock carburetor for a customer and had it dialed in fairly well. He went to see his friend and was convinced to take the Edelbrock off and put on a Holley. Unless one is using a high quality AFR gauge most people are shooting in the dark for the most part.
I'm a quadrajet Man myself but I love the summit carb ( i believe they bought it from Holley who bought it from ford 4100 series ???) But I like the Edelbrock Carter carbs too, please do a video explaining the difference between, AFB, AVS, super quad, etc etc etc I'm a little confused about the difference. Once again a great video and all the best to you and yours Sir.
My 400c.i. 67 goat, actually "went wild" with an "out of the box" 800cfm AVS2...super throttle response, no bog and great, nimble drivability...all I've done afterwards, for routines sake, is fine tune the idle screws.....and of course a AF meter would help me find the true sweet spots, but I am happy as it is.
The Summit 600 cfm that I got seems to have worked better than any carb I messed with. I highly recommend it. It worked on a 400+ hp LT1 and slapped it on my buddies 305 and ran just as good with no change.
@@markusaurelius1739 update. The original one i gave to my buddy with the 305. Put it on another car with a new 350 no changes and still fired the car off and idled. Bought a new, drove it around for a while and battery died. has been sitting for a few months. Just got a new battery and 5 year antique plates. Took car around the block, could smell bad gas. Ran great! No issues. The second and first 600 summit carbs work great.
@@markusaurelius1739 make sure you have total timing set properly and make sure no vacuum leaks and set idle with a vacuum gauge. Dont mess with the rear secondary idle bleed unless you have a lower vacuum lopey cam. Just normal holley stuff
The Edelbrock are the easiest, especially with someone who doesn’t understand cars. Easiest to tune by far. Many better for racing but for everything 400-450 Ann 800eps down to the 600 are perfect.
I gave you a thumbs up........... BUT. Built a 289 in 1983. A 1965 2+2 Mustang, stock w/autolight 4bb carb. Mods: bore 0.020, 10:1 pistons, 0.060 off the heads and cam: ford motorsport 280/290? or 270/280? Full headers, 2 in. dual exhaust. After mod motor would not idle lower than 1200 rpm. Put Edelbrock F4B intake. Still would die if idle set lower than 1200. Replaced carb with 465 CFM vacuum secondaries Holley and idle went down to 770 rpm. It was the quickest car at Ft. Ord. Crashed the car and motor lives on in 1974 F100. The 465 Holley wore out, around throttle shaft. I've put more than 3 different holley's on it and everyone of them has/had a, 'flat spot', around 1800 to 2200 rpm. The F100 has a tall rearend: 2.90/3.10. Different power-valves only change the location of the flat-spot. Point: I've tried two different Edalbrock carb, 600 CFM and one bigger, and both worked fine on the old F100 with a cam not designed for a 4200 lbs truck. The Edalbrock is way more forgiving when cam is mismatched to vehicle weight and/or gearing.
Worked fine and tuned are two different things. One thing that a lot of folks do is just accept what’s bolted on and don’t give much thought to it if the car starts, runs and gives them some level of performance. Without knowing how much they’re leaving on the table, I guess I can understand not wanting more. But boy when they realize there is more to be had, the fun really begins!
“Right outta the box” is definitely real but it’s more subjective than how you are describing it. To me right outta the box means it will work better RTB than what most knuckleheads could or would do to it. I had a 70 Buick 455 that I was having issues with and I bought a rebuilt Qjet setup for a big Block by a carburetor specialist guy and all I did was set the idle and it worked flawlessly. Idle , tip in , midrange, wide open everything was working perfectly.
You’re comparing two different things. On aftermarket carburetors, they’re set with whatever calibration the factory decided to use and it’s impossible to be application specific. As far at the Qjets go, the OE had a calibration for each engine and CFM and they’re very easy to set that way again and work a little better. But it’s still a ballpark for most. Unless your rebuilder asked all the right questions and set the carb up for your specific application. But even then, it might RUN out of the box, but it’s usually far from completely tuned.
Setting up my Edelbrock was easy. I turned all the screws back and forth until it ran shitty and then fucked with it until it seemed ok again. The electric choke seems like it works when it feels like it so I jammed a pen through the linkage and unplugged it. Now my 302 HO runs great. Smells really rich and blackens the tailpipe. 16mpg in an F250.
If someone doesn't tune a carb with a wideband first to know we're he's at at idle , cruise , and WOT shouldn't be putting a shot of nitros on anything ... Great vid although on the net it's fired right up out of the Box ....I have a 69 F250 390 with a mild cam DEH 265 and headers with a old 350 holly 2bbl I had to rejet that thing 3-4 sizes it was so lean finally bought a AEM wideband so I know what is actually going on . They run right out of the box usually always leaner .
You just gave me a good base line to go with on my 389 , sounds to me on the Holley after tuning it you ended up very close too if not right at 800cfm , so that where I’m gonna start .
I personally am an Edelbrock guy. People tend to say that they're great for drop in applications, but it completely depends on the motor. I have a hopped up 400 sbc that came with a stock 1406, and it ran richer than Oprah until I calibrated the primaries. Still need to go through the secondaries.
From my experience out of the box the edelbrocks are normally close enough to just run them. But there is no replacement for tuning a carb with a wideband.
This is a lot lol I have a 1966 Chevy c10 factory 283 v8 it has a minor cam and an edelbrock intake I just need to know what a good little street carb would be I want the most power possible while still being reliable it’s a small 283 it’ll never be a monster but it can be quick with the 3.73 gears and the engine is in great shape not even a spec in the oil pan oil looks brand new after 800 miles the 2 barrel crapped out so I replaced the intake and put on a used edelbrock 1406 but it is clogged up the fuel pressure built up so much from cranking that it leaked past the hose clamp and when the truck backfired it fought fire it backfired because I also did an hei distributor swap and the timing is off since I haven’t ran it yet I don’t want to learn how to do a ton of tuning I want to get something that’ll work well out of the box and can be fine tuned later by a shop if I find one that knows carbs this was supposed to be a father son project but my father passed away right after we started on it so I’m on my own learning to do all this I’ve never owned any other classic I’m 23 😅 a budget would be $400 or less for the carb
I’m not sure if I can help you. As the video explains, there is no such thing as the best out of the box. You can get it close and get it to run, but there so much more to be had. Sounds like you also need to address the fuel system. My Ultimate Edelbrock Carb Tuning guide has a good expokiantion of a fuel system and what components you’ll need to do it right. I have a separate video on that if you want to learn more and I also have a separate video on the tuning chart. Trust me when I tell you that YOU can tune your carb. YOU can get the timing set right. YOU can learn to be self sufficient with this and know when problems arise that YOU can diagnose it and hopefully fix it. My condolences on the loss of your Dad. Nothing better than to carry on his legacy by continuing to work on your project.
@@MuscleCarSolutions should I rebuild my edelbrock 1406 or buy a new carb? I’m good at taking apart things and putting it back together I won’t know what everything is but I do electronics repairs where there’s 100 tiny screws and parts that go back is specific ways and I’m good at it I just don’t know what I’m doing with tuning and wiring on this thing I’ve done a 5 lug suspension swap from 8 lug CPP power steering, power disc brakes etc. it’s a good truck not just a junker in a field once I figure out the fuel system it’ll be a good driver
@@kingarthur7255 is rebuild it. I did a step by step assembly video on that carb and it’s a video that will help you if you get stuck. It’s not overly complicated but there are a fee little tricks you can use along the way. Check on the Edelbrock Carb Rebuild Step by Step video in my Edelbrock Carb Tech playlist. Will help you do it right. Tuning is really not that hard. Watch the videos in that playlist and you’ll have everything you need to do it right. It’s easier than you think.
@@MuscleCarSolutions I really appreciate your time I’ll look at that video what jets and adjustments etc. would you recommend for this engine? It’s the original 1966 c10 283 it has I believe large hump double hump heads if that makes sense lol and a mild cam, edelbrock performer intake and the stock ram horns that people say are as good as headers idk about all that 🤷♂️ I just want to drive this old girl she seemed very starved by the old factory 2 barrel and iron intake but idk if that was also gearing because at the time it had 4.56 rear end gears that paired with the original sm420 4 speed manual meant the gearing was all torque and top speed was like 70mph at 7,000 rpm😂 now it’s got 3.73 gears same trans I may go taller on gearing still I want to be able to do 75-80mph on the interstate because 75mph is the speed limit here and people drive 85mph even semi trucks lol older ones anyway also is the 1406 too big for the 283? And how do I know if the electric choke needs replaced?
@@kingarthur7255 the 1406 might be a touch large for that combination. You can tune it down some, but the CFM is on the large side for what that engine can consume. As far as tuning goes, follow the tuning chart. Only you will be able to do that based on how the engine runs and what direction you want to go with it. The videos I mentioned on how to read that tuning chart will give you all the tools you need to understand the process and to get started on it. I wish I could give you a good base calibration but its impossible. Its a hands on thing and you'll be the best person to tell what the tuning steps will be. Watch the video and go download that tuning chart. The electric choke you can tell if its working once you get it on and operating. I did and electric choke video on how I adjust them. Hate to keep pointing you at other video's I've done but its really a good resource to answer your questions. And last but not least, I fully understand the joy of driving on a transmission with a 1:1 final ratio. lol Its awful.
thank you for your vid: My application is a 1984 k20 gmc 4x4 with 350cid. I installed a 650 Edlebrock about 12 years ago and never did a thing to it. Restoring the truck for 2nd time now and looking for guidance for this application. My elevation is 1300 feet. Stock engine and bare bones exaust. Thanks. Also, if i want to do a deep tuneup at home what equipment do I need? I have a pressure regulator now, But no tack, or way to see what the air/fuel mix looks like. anyways thanks
Well, that could be the right size carb if that’s what you’re asking. I did a very good video on how to select the right size. If you watch that you’ll be able to confirm if that’s the right one or not. As far as tools go, getting the fuel system right is far more important than any speciality tool you could use. Is an AFR gauge a great tool? One of the best there is! Do you have to have one to tune, not for most street applications. The how to set up a fuel system video I did has great detail on this. Check that one out and see how it compares to your set up. If you have the fuel system right, tuning goes so much easier. As far as bolting on a carb and not doing a thing to it, I don’t doubt in some cases it will run. But there so much being left on the table that can help power, maintenance and even potentially a little bit of fuel economy.
Everything has its place. Some brands are better at a particular situation than others. I don’t have a brand. I want what fits into the situation that it’s being asked to perform in. Sometimes that’s a Holley, sometimes that’s an Edelbrock.
I have a 88 dodge 360 it has the Quadrajet on it which one would you suggest I go to I pull trailers with and it seems udder powered don’t care about economy just want power it’s a farm truck
You’re not going to find the solution to more torque/hp in a carb swap. Especially if you’re out working the capacity of the truck/engine. I don’t know bay details of your set up or what you’re pulling, but typically these conversations lead to bigger problems that can’t be addressed with simple changes.
There are tons of cheap AFR gauges on the market and plenty that are on the high side. I wouldn’t spend less than $100 on one. I prefer a wireless one from FAST but it’s on the high side. I did a review of that unit some years ago. Numbers really depend on what you’re doing, at what time and what the set up is.
I just installed a 4 barrel 650 cfm Edelbrock carburetor in my rebuilt Chevy 283 engine. How can I find out what adjustments if any are needed? How do I know if it’s burning too rich or not etc..,
I’m going to assume it’s very rich. Even on a pretty aggressively built 283, that’s a lot of CFM. First watch my video on fuel system set up. There are some critical and important pieces to that system you’ll want to have and in the right order. Next go watch the video on the Edelbrock tuning chart. Will give you all the information you need to start making adjustments. Remember timing is part of tuning a carburetor. Before you even touch the carb, verify the timing is appropriate for your combination and elevation. I start at 12 initial and go up to 18 to find the right start to your timing. You’ll come back to it again. Fuel and spark are tuned together. Then start the process.
Is having that 650 cfm going to be problematic in the future or even now? I mainly drive my car on the weekends. I’m not very mechanically inclined. I know the timing was set when the carburetor was installed.
Don’t know. Your setup will dictate the size of the carb. If you watch my video on how to choose a size, it will help you determine what size you need and what the engine is capable of using.
40 years of in put . I couldnt count on both hands and feet how many times someone got pushed my way cause ther holley wouldnt run ! Ive NEVER had anyone come my way cause ther edelbrock wouldnt run ! My old neighbor had a like 65 mustang . 289 4 speed . Garage talked him into a holley . And then couldnt make it run . Went to another garage and they told him he bought the wrong holley . Buy this one . He did . And they couldnt make it run either . Guy barley made it home . Herd him strugglin . Car was flooding horribly ! He asked if i would help . See ya workin on cars all the time . I told him , sorry i wont work on your holley . Ive throwin probably 30 plus holleys in the garbage . Got a edelbrock you can try . No no he says . Gotta figure this out ! Well i only know one guy that likes snd runs holley carbs . Sent him up ther . Guy tells him , you bought the wrong holley ! So the poor smuck bought a third holley . Seen him a cpl days later . Howd that work out for ya ? It didnt he says . Cars bareley running he says . You drive it he says . Ok . Soon as you gave it any gas at all it would stall bad ! Couldnt even buzz it up in neutral . Fall on its face ! Told him again . I got a edelbrock off my 390 . It was a good carb . I know it works ! Ok he says . Took about 20 mins . Had a edelbrock bolted on . Fired it up . Waaaaay happier 🤔 Test drive , you drive he says . Ok . Little 289 layed down about a good 30 foot patch rubber ! Were side ways pullin out on the highway ! You got a posi i told him . Geuss so ! The cars never ran like this before he says ! Dam little 289 hit 128 mph ! In 3rd gear ! The guy was burning a tank a gas every 2 n a half days with the holley to work and back . Guy drove 2 weeks on a tank a gas to work n back with the edelbrock ! And laid rubber doin it ! Guy called me Mr Edelbrock fr the next 2 years till he moved lol What do i do with these 3 holleys he says ? Personally i throw em away ! Craigslist maybe ? They say thers a sucker born every min!
@@777smitty4 it take me a week to tell ya about all the holley ppl ive helped out by throwin q jet or edelbrock on ! I remember racing a buddy in the 80s . Hes the mechanic i sent the 289 guy 2 . Hes got a 390 , 030 over , melling class three race cam . And his boat anchor holley . We raced leavin town one day . Im in 73 lt . Stock 307 i put a q jet on . And headers . I dumped that spreadbore and came from a car length behind at the light . Ripped by that holley infected 390 and put 2 car lengths on him ! Man he was pissed when we got to his shop . Little 307 n q jet spanked his ass ! . Glad this helped ya !
First off I want to say great video and very informative and you have a new subscriber 👍 I have an issue with my 1978 bolt main Chevy 350 board out 30 over edelbrock RV mild came edelbrock intake mechanical fuel pump no fuel pressure gauge one fuel filter between the mechanical fuel pump and carburetor. Currently running a edelbrock 650 cfm and it's been working ok for 4 years I did not know about having to take them apart and readjusting the floats until yesterday when I put a rebuilt kit in it because i was having fuel problems such as alot of hesitation in the throttle response and gas mileage. So like I said I took it apart cleaned it with 2 cans of carburetor cleaner blew it out with compressed air and nothing changed my 1978 350 still running like crap. Any advice you could give me would be appreciated. Thank you in advance
@@MuscleCarSolutions I'm so sorry I forgot to add my issue omg how stupid of me. Anyway the issue started on Monday morning when I noticed that my engine was coughing spitting and sputtering lack of power. I first thought it was an electrical issue so i replaced the spark plugs with distributor cap and rotor and plug wires. Still my engine was spitting and sputtering So I got a edelbrock rebuilt kit put it in yesterday and still it's spitting and sputtering readjusting my floats took out the 4 jets cleaned everything up put back together and sputtering when I step on the gas Might I add brand new distributor as well new fuel pump and fuel filter. This 350 Chevy engine is my first rebuild it's just a daily driver for work and going fishing.
So if you went through the carb and assuming it’s not an issue now, start with the simple things. What’s your initial timing and what’s your all in? Out a timing light on and verify. You mentioned a new fuel filter. You replaced it as part of your troubleshooting? What fuel pump and what do you have your pressure regulator set to?
@@MuscleCarSolutions Hi thank you for the response new fuel filter was part of the trouble shooting yes. Timing is at 14 degrees BTD manual fuel pump no fuel pressure gauge. The edelbrock 1406 I have has been working good for the past 4 years but all of a sudden on Monday 6/21/21 everything went south. When i took out the needle seats there was small peaces of white plastic on both of the little fuel screens on the needle seat valves that was yesterday when i took it apart.
@@akbound.prepper5676 keep digging. If you had crap in the carb it came from somewhere. Not much more I can suggest. I’d try to track back and see what that plastic is. Sounds like it could be the root cause. On a side note, check out my video on how to properly set up a fuel system. A regulator will help and give you another adjustment point in a system that’s limited.
I have a 1988 motorhome with a Chevy 454. I'm wondering what kind of carburetor to put on that.. I just put an carter p4070 electric fuel pump on.. After watching your videos I'm going to have to put a regulator on it and I don't know whether to use a deadhead our back to the fuel tank... so what carb do you think
I have a good video that will answer that question as I can’t without more info. If you look for How to Choose the Right Size Carburetor on my channel, it will walk you though. I can help you confirm with the additional info needed. Just watch that video and you should come up with the right answer. As far as the regulator goes, it’s a great decision to run one. I prefer a return back to the tank as it keeps the fuel moving and not sitting near the hot engine for too long. If you want to run that style or the non return (deadhead) you’re still going to get mostly the same result. That level of adjustability in the fuel system that you didn’t have before.
You’d be surprised how few carburetors actually get tuned. Idle mixture screws and idle speed and that’s it for most. That’s the extent of their “tuning”.
My eddy 600 ran great right outta the box on a junkyard 360 , little timing and pilot adjustment , chalky brown spark plugs daily driver but it's luck of the draw .
What AFR meter do you recommend? I have a Edelbrock 1405 on a bone stock ‘78 440 in a 3/4 ton truck with auto trans. It never really sees even 4000 rpm, and tach tops out at 5000. I have it running fairly decently I believe, but would like an affordable (hopefully less than $100) AFR meter to confirm that. Thanks.
You might find a narrowband AFR that is that cheap, but the feedback in limited with that style O2. I have a video on the difference in those if you want more detail. Honestly with a stock set up, I would be hard pressed to spend the money on a gauge. I can understand wanting to know to help fine tune, but I’m not sure how useful it would be. If you have it running well, I’d likely leave it be.
@@MuscleCarSolutions Ive been watching a couple older used meters on ebay Just have a hard time dropping the money for the reason you listed. It does run fairly well. Changed the springs out, though I cant remember which ones I have in off the top of my head and changed to the highest hole on the accelerator pump to get past an off idle stumble and that worked. Also changed the rod to fatten it up a bit on the higher end. Jet is still as it came from factory. It seems to run out of gumption around 3-3500 rpm but i dont know if its because I need to change to a bigger jet or because I limited myself to the 600 cfm carb. Your opinion? Im relatively new to automotive carbs. Have messed around with tractor and small engine carbs for a long time but the automotive ones throw me for a loop sometimes.
@@SteelSurgeon for sure you might be limited a little by the size of the carb, but it’s the operating rpm of the engine that will limit the need for a bigger carb. It’s just not needed. I just did a video on selecting carb size and cover a lower rpm application like yours. I would continue to tune, make sure your ignition/timing is right and you should continue to see better results. For sure the AFR would be helpful to use on this situation. Cheapest one I’ve used in the past is in my ultimate tuning guide video. Works well. I think at the time it was around $150.
That one could work but it depends on the situation. I’d watch my video on How to Choose the Right Size Carburetor. You’ll get the variables needed to see if that one is the right size for what you’re doing or not.
I have a question's IF I may. I have an 1984 (I think it is) 350 cu in sbc engine. I'm gonna replace the junky old Carb on it. I'm trying to make up my mind on what to put on it. Please some HELP on this PLEASE. My engine is bone stock it's in a Chevy c-60 2-ton truck, it has an old Rochester carb now, I'm thinking either a Holly or a Edelbrock but Not sure of the correct size for the CFM's 500-600-650? I just run this truck with light loads and around 60 MPH is all.
I did a video on that to help pick a size. There is some additional info in this video that will help you get the size right. th-cam.com/video/Hy4s9B43YM0/w-d-xo.html
@@MuscleCarSolutions I guess I need a 500 cfm Carb.(?) the figure I came up with after your video. 350x4800/3456=486.1111 does that sound close to You, Sir? Thanks for your help on this video.👍
For a 2 ton truck? Sounds like it will be just fine for the low RPM you’ll be running. You can go up to the 600 or 650, but it’s going to run rich. Elevation is a factor also. The higher above sea level, the leaner the carburetor.
I have a couple motors I'm looking for info on. My 86 monte Carlo has a stock motor in it I need a carb for the 305 that's in the car I'm looking for a carb that I can use on this motor and change to my built motor also when I change the motor out I have a 1970 300hp block 30 over with vortex heads Idk anything about the specs just don't want to buy more then one carb at this time but need something that will work on both thanks in advance for any info
Choose the carb size for what you’re going to build. It’s likely going to run awful on a stock 305, but without knowing all the details it’s impossible to say.
@@MuscleCarSolutions thank you and thanks for the reply I'm just going for a street car something fun to drive and nothing to crazy 450 or 500 hp do you think a 600 would be to big for the 305 or to small for the 350 ?
Now we’re getting somewhere on the details. The 650 AVSII sounds like it might be good for your new build. It will be too much carb for a stock 305. Will run very rich and you won’t be able to tune out of it. But if your long term goal is to build the new engine and use the same carb, then it’s just something you’ll need to work around till you get there.
Look at images of a quadrajet or thermoquad carb. The primaries are small. It’s where the engine operates most of the time and they can be calibrated to flow the amount of fuel needed for that engine in a vehicle that isn’t seeing high rpm. That’s how the factory does it and makes one size carb fit a lot of different applications. On an aftermarket set up it all depends on what the combination of parts is, but over carburating is a common problem. Bigger isn’t alway better.
Contrary. I’ll tell you what. My Edelbrock 650 was NOT perfect right outta the box going on my 302 Ford small block. Not obviously that’s at least 50 CFM bigger than that engine should be able to handle, but as far as that being the only reason it wasn’t perfect, a little trip to the Calibration Kit fixed that right up. And now my ‘82 Bronco makes a buck 10 in about 12 seconds fairly easily. It’s freaking great!
Yup. Everything has to be tuned. It’s really amazing how many people just bolt on a carb and drive it without giving the tuning side any thought. Then they complain the carb is junk. lol Have fun with the Bronco! Love that body style.
Yeah they'll throw it on and it will flood or the gas mileage is horrible and they'll complain that it's the carb 🤣🤣🤣there's no competition between these two they both are great carbs
@@markmccarty9793 Fair. It’s a supercharged build (positive displacement and pulley ratio pushes 560 CID by 2,500 RPM), running a nasty cam, new rotating assembly, new heads, (or, was new when they were installed anyway), technically it’s bored .030 over to 306 CID Natural, 3,800 RPM Stall Torque Converter, tachs out at 8,000, but it’s still got the original 302 block. Not a single part inside of the block is stock, and I even went ahead and TIG welded some extra bracing in up in Lifter Valley to keep her from splitting in the higher power ranges. Very hard to do with cast iron, but my metallurgy has always been solid work. That outta the way, I can see where the confusion lies. Barely believed it myself, swapped a blown 460 build in a time ago and then went back to the 302 because it actually ended up being faster with weight and fuel distribution factored in. Edit: Additional. I’ve since gone to a 750. 650 ended up choking her out after about 140 MPH. Currently putting proper wheelie bars on her because she does try to flip backwards on a hard pull. I swapped the gearing on the tranny myself awhile back along with throwing a trutrac in the front and rear diff, not to mention I built an overdrive gearbox off the T-case with a manual engagement for better highway fuel economy. Suggestion. Keep your eyes pealed sometime in the next coupla years for a Cream an’ Blue ‘82 shitbox Bronco doing a standstill 4x4 burnout somewhere in the Lower-48 if that’s where you’re at. Flag me down for a keg of beer and a ride if you see me! Edit: Disclaimer. Not in that order. Hahah!
@@toast_fairy1419 only if you (1) don’t know how to actually tune a carburetor or (2) you’re just willing to put up with whatever it gives you. Neither answer is correct.
@@MuscleCarSolutions yeah cause Mopar guys and gals are worth their salt we tend to be very resourceful people and have to have our hands in everything!😂🇺🇸
You dont need a pressure regulator when you have a mechanical pump , or 2 filters , just one between the pump and the carb (to the best of my knowledge)
Absolutely you should. Several a reasons why. Stock, off the shelf pumps don’t always put out the pressure they are rated at. Having a regulator and a gauge allows you to verify what pressure it’s pushing to the carb and adjusting from there. As a tuning piece, there are plenty of times in the process where dropping or adding pressure helps to fine tune the system. Hotter climates with an ethanol based fuel might like a bit more pressure in the system. A regulator allows you to set that. It’s an analog system. Giving yourself one more adjustment point in the system is never a bad idea. Every fuel system I build, no matter what pump I use, gets a regulator and a gauge. Same goes with filters. 100 micron to stop the big stuff and a 10 micron to stop the small stuff. Having two helps keep the fuel pressure consistent. Having only one filter can restrict the system. Delivering a consistent amount of fuel at a consistent amount of pressure gives repeatable performance.
A quick scan of the internet and people asking what carburetor to run will show plenty of responses for carbs that run perfect “right out of the the box” and that most don’t have a clue how to tune a carb.
Considering practically no one knows how to tune an easy carb like an Edelbrock or Holley, the Quadrajet is by far much more complicated. Don’t know that it’s going to be the reigning champion of any thing.
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@@DannyWalker1949 cool! Welcome!
I've a Chevy 350 with Rochester Q-Jet, my favorite carb of all time. It came with the engine, no mucking around to tune up etc etc etc. Idles well, good mid-range and those huge secondaries help a lot when needed. I've tried everything else, just not for me.
Did you ever try that q jet on an aftermarket intake and a mild build? I have a very good q jet on a bone stock 1976 vette and am thinking about heads cam, you know the build. That q jet do ok for you?
@@hankjones2975 I'm going to start building another of my customer's 1987 Chev 350 mild performance cam and aftermarket intake, headers all with Q-Jet for a daily runner use in heavy traffic and steaming hot weather
My new Holley 4160-3310 750 cfm was set up pretty close out of the box. I did however set the idle , checked air/fuel adjust screws (1 1/2) Wired up the elect choke. Started right up, let it warm up and put my vacuum gauge on it and tweaked it. I fattened it up a tad and am ordering a A/F ratio gauge from Summit also. Will adjust it when I am done with that if it needs it. Thanks Brian (hope that is your name). Just love the solid info you share with us weekend mechanics.
Yup. Keep tuning! You’ll find the sweet spot with an AFR. Thanks again for the kind words. Very much appreciated and I’m thankful it’s been useful to you!
Most carbs with run and probably be a little fat. I was tuning an Edelbrock carburetor for a customer and had it dialed in fairly well. He went to see his friend and was convinced to take the Edelbrock off and put on a Holley. Unless one is using a high quality AFR gauge most people are shooting in the dark for the most part.
Ignorance is bliss!
a carburator is not a bolt on part doesnt matter what brand all about tuning
I'm a quadrajet Man myself but I love the summit carb ( i believe they bought it from Holley who bought it from ford 4100 series ???) But I like the Edelbrock Carter carbs too, please do a video explaining the difference between, AFB, AVS, super quad, etc etc etc I'm a little confused about the difference.
Once again a great video and all the best to you and yours Sir.
My best carburetor is the AVS2 I have them in my 1978 trans am and 1966 mustang fastback
My 400c.i. 67 goat, actually "went wild" with an "out of the box" 800cfm AVS2...super throttle response, no bog and great, nimble drivability...all I've done afterwards, for routines sake, is fine tune the idle screws.....and of course a AF meter would help me find the true sweet spots, but I am happy as it is.
The Summit 600 cfm that I got seems to have worked better than any carb I messed with. I highly recommend it. It worked on a 400+ hp LT1 and slapped it on my buddies 305 and ran just as good with no change.
I'm leaning towards the summit 600 for my 318 motor. I've heard nothing but good things about the summit carb.
Just ordered one for my 302. Fingers crossed.
@@markusaurelius1739 update. The original one i gave to my buddy with the 305. Put it on another car with a new 350 no changes and still fired the car off and idled. Bought a new, drove it around for a while and battery died. has been sitting for a few months. Just got a new battery and 5 year antique plates. Took car around the block, could smell bad gas. Ran great! No issues. The second and first 600 summit carbs work great.
@@markusaurelius1739 make sure you have total timing set properly and make sure no vacuum leaks and set idle with a vacuum gauge. Dont mess with the rear secondary idle bleed unless you have a lower vacuum lopey cam. Just normal holley stuff
I have a summit carb. It’s ok. I’d like to try an Edelbrock.
The Edelbrock are the easiest, especially with someone who doesn’t understand cars. Easiest to tune by far. Many better for racing but for everything 400-450 Ann 800eps down to the 600 are perfect.
I gave you a thumbs up........... BUT.
Built a 289 in 1983. A 1965 2+2 Mustang, stock w/autolight 4bb carb. Mods: bore 0.020, 10:1 pistons, 0.060 off the heads and cam: ford motorsport 280/290? or 270/280? Full headers, 2 in. dual exhaust.
After mod motor would not idle lower than 1200 rpm. Put Edelbrock F4B intake. Still would die if idle set lower than 1200. Replaced carb with 465 CFM vacuum secondaries Holley and idle went down to 770 rpm. It was the quickest car at Ft. Ord. Crashed the car and motor lives on in 1974 F100. The 465 Holley wore out, around throttle shaft.
I've put more than 3 different holley's on it and everyone of them has/had a, 'flat spot', around 1800 to 2200 rpm. The F100 has a tall rearend: 2.90/3.10. Different power-valves only change the location of the flat-spot.
Point: I've tried two different Edalbrock carb, 600 CFM and one bigger, and both worked fine on the old F100 with a cam not designed for a 4200 lbs truck. The Edalbrock is way more forgiving when cam is mismatched to vehicle weight and/or gearing.
Worked fine and tuned are two different things. One thing that a lot of folks do is just accept what’s bolted on and don’t give much thought to it if the car starts, runs and gives them some level of performance. Without knowing how much they’re leaving on the table, I guess I can understand not wanting more. But boy when they realize there is more to be had, the fun really begins!
Great video!! Breaking it down simply without the bells and whistles
Thanks again
Tool Junkie thanks! Glad you liked it!
“Right outta the box” is definitely real but it’s more subjective than how you are describing it. To me right outta the box means it will work better RTB than what most knuckleheads could or would do to it. I had a 70 Buick 455 that I was having issues with and I bought a rebuilt Qjet setup for a big Block by a carburetor specialist guy and all I did was set the idle and it worked flawlessly. Idle , tip in , midrange, wide open everything was working perfectly.
You’re comparing two different things. On aftermarket carburetors, they’re set with whatever calibration the factory decided to use and it’s impossible to be application specific. As far at the Qjets go, the OE had a calibration for each engine and CFM and they’re very easy to set that way again and work a little better. But it’s still a ballpark for most. Unless your rebuilder asked all the right questions and set the carb up for your specific application. But even then, it might RUN out of the box, but it’s usually far from completely tuned.
Setting up my Edelbrock was easy. I turned all the screws back and forth until it ran shitty and then fucked with it until it seemed ok again. The electric choke seems like it works when it feels like it so I jammed a pen through the linkage and unplugged it. Now my 302 HO runs great. Smells really rich and blackens the tailpipe. 16mpg in an F250.
Going up 15 jet sizes on that Holley 800 is not right, you should not have to go up more than 4 jet sizes unless you are removing the power valve.
The engine wants what it wants.......possibly smoothing over cyl to cyl distribution issues?
If someone doesn't tune a carb with a wideband first to know we're he's at at idle , cruise , and WOT shouldn't be putting a shot of nitros on anything ... Great vid although on the net it's fired right up out of the Box ....I have a 69 F250 390 with a mild cam DEH 265 and headers with a old 350 holly 2bbl I had to rejet that thing 3-4 sizes it was so lean finally bought a AEM wideband so I know what is actually going on . They run right out of the box usually always leaner .
I just changed the throttle linkage placement setting from slot 2 to slot 3 --- way better squirt response at secondary hit .
Hi Mike, you referring to where the spring (Hole) goes? Thanks much!!
@@robertclymer6948 yes
@@BIG_CHEVY_BOWSKIE_MIKE Thanks Much Mike, I had not thought of that sir.
@@BIG_CHEVY_BOWSKIE_MIKE Thank you!!
I change from 1 to 2 on my Holley and it made a major difference. I don't have a 3
You just gave me a good base line to go with on my 389 , sounds to me on the Holley after tuning it you ended up very close too if not right at 800cfm , so that where I’m gonna start .
I personally am an Edelbrock guy. People tend to say that they're great for drop in applications, but it completely depends on the motor. I have a hopped up 400 sbc that came with a stock 1406, and it ran richer than Oprah until I calibrated the primaries. Still need to go through the secondaries.
Nothing is optimal right out of the box. Anyone who says it is, just doesn’t know what they are leaving on the table. Keep tuning!
Holley Double Pumpers . They produce more hp because they don't have choke towers and the duel squirter are very tunable in at least 4 different ways.
You’ve made the fatal mistake with your statement. It’s a common mistake though. Watch the video and see if you can figure out what it was!
From my experience out of the box the edelbrocks are normally close enough to just run them. But there is no replacement for tuning a carb with a wideband.
I had great luck with a Carter AFB
Quadrajet is tough to beat , used on 500 CI Caddies and 283 SBC , everything inbetween
This is a lot lol I have a 1966 Chevy c10 factory 283 v8 it has a minor cam and an edelbrock intake I just need to know what a good little street carb would be I want the most power possible while still being reliable it’s a small 283 it’ll never be a monster but it can be quick with the 3.73 gears and the engine is in great shape not even a spec in the oil pan oil looks brand new after 800 miles the 2 barrel crapped out so I replaced the intake and put on a used edelbrock 1406 but it is clogged up the fuel pressure built up so much from cranking that it leaked past the hose clamp and when the truck backfired it fought fire it backfired because I also did an hei distributor swap and the timing is off since I haven’t ran it yet I don’t want to learn how to do a ton of tuning I want to get something that’ll work well out of the box and can be fine tuned later by a shop if I find one that knows carbs this was supposed to be a father son project but my father passed away right after we started on it so I’m on my own learning to do all this I’ve never owned any other classic I’m 23 😅 a budget would be $400 or less for the carb
I’m not sure if I can help you. As the video explains, there is no such thing as the best out of the box. You can get it close and get it to run, but there so much more to be had. Sounds like you also need to address the fuel system. My Ultimate Edelbrock Carb Tuning guide has a good expokiantion of a fuel system and what components you’ll need to do it right. I have a separate video on that if you want to learn more and I also have a separate video on the tuning chart. Trust me when I tell you that YOU can tune your carb. YOU can get the timing set right. YOU can learn to be self sufficient with this and know when problems arise that YOU can diagnose it and hopefully fix it.
My condolences on the loss of your Dad. Nothing better than to carry on his legacy by continuing to work on your project.
@@MuscleCarSolutions should I rebuild my edelbrock 1406 or buy a new carb? I’m good at taking apart things and putting it back together I won’t know what everything is but I do electronics repairs where there’s 100 tiny screws and parts that go back is specific ways and I’m good at it I just don’t know what I’m doing with tuning and wiring on this thing I’ve done a 5 lug suspension swap from 8 lug CPP power steering, power disc brakes etc. it’s a good truck not just a junker in a field once I figure out the fuel system it’ll be a good driver
@@kingarthur7255 is rebuild it. I did a step by step assembly video on that carb and it’s a video that will help you if you get stuck. It’s not overly complicated but there are a fee little tricks you can use along the way. Check on the Edelbrock Carb Rebuild Step by Step video in my Edelbrock Carb Tech playlist. Will help you do it right. Tuning is really not that hard. Watch the videos in that playlist and you’ll have everything you need to do it right. It’s easier than you think.
@@MuscleCarSolutions I really appreciate your time I’ll look at that video what jets and adjustments etc. would you recommend for this engine? It’s the original 1966 c10 283 it has I believe large hump double hump heads if that makes sense lol and a mild cam, edelbrock performer intake and the stock ram horns that people say are as good as headers idk about all that 🤷♂️ I just want to drive this old girl she seemed very starved by the old factory 2 barrel and iron intake but idk if that was also gearing because at the time it had 4.56 rear end gears that paired with the original sm420 4 speed manual meant the gearing was all torque and top speed was like 70mph at 7,000 rpm😂 now it’s got 3.73 gears same trans I may go taller on gearing still I want to be able to do 75-80mph on the interstate because 75mph is the speed limit here and people drive 85mph even semi trucks lol older ones anyway also is the 1406 too big for the 283? And how do I know if the electric choke needs replaced?
@@kingarthur7255 the 1406 might be a touch large for that combination. You can tune it down some, but the CFM is on the large side for what that engine can consume. As far as tuning goes, follow the tuning chart. Only you will be able to do that based on how the engine runs and what direction you want to go with it. The videos I mentioned on how to read that tuning chart will give you all the tools you need to understand the process and to get started on it. I wish I could give you a good base calibration but its impossible. Its a hands on thing and you'll be the best person to tell what the tuning steps will be. Watch the video and go download that tuning chart. The electric choke you can tell if its working once you get it on and operating. I did and electric choke video on how I adjust them. Hate to keep pointing you at other video's I've done but its really a good resource to answer your questions. And last but not least, I fully understand the joy of driving on a transmission with a 1:1 final ratio. lol Its awful.
Got a 350 Chevy RV cam eldebrock intake which Eldebrock carb do you recommend I go buy from Oreilys
Not enough info. Check out my video on how to choose the right size carburetor.
Love my old 650 AFB
Back in the day 2280 out of the box was great one off one on well carter style back in 72.from the dealer😉
Quick fuel brawler 650 for my amc401 jetted down 2 sizes. Uped ifr one size down 3 sizes on iab’s perfect now
thank you for your vid: My application is a 1984 k20 gmc 4x4 with 350cid. I installed a 650 Edlebrock about 12 years ago and never did a thing to it. Restoring the truck for 2nd time now and looking for guidance for this application. My elevation is 1300 feet. Stock engine and bare bones exaust. Thanks. Also, if i want to do a deep tuneup at home what equipment do I need? I have a pressure regulator now, But no tack, or way to see what the air/fuel mix looks like. anyways thanks
Well, that could be the right size carb if that’s what you’re asking. I did a very good video on how to select the right size. If you watch that you’ll be able to confirm if that’s the right one or not.
As far as tools go, getting the fuel system right is far more important than any speciality tool you could use. Is an AFR gauge a great tool? One of the best there is! Do you have to have one to tune, not for most street applications. The how to set up a fuel system video I did has great detail on this. Check that one out and see how it compares to your set up. If you have the fuel system right, tuning goes so much easier.
As far as bolting on a carb and not doing a thing to it, I don’t doubt in some cases it will run. But there so much being left on the table that can help power, maintenance and even potentially a little bit of fuel economy.
I have run both holley and edelbrock carburetors and have i have just purchased a new avs2 carburetor but the holley is still number 1 for me
Everything has its place. Some brands are better at a particular situation than others. I don’t have a brand. I want what fits into the situation that it’s being asked to perform in. Sometimes that’s a Holley, sometimes that’s an Edelbrock.
most carbs are good out of the box.It's the fine tuning where problems arise
Thanks I appreciate the info needed to change the carbs in my 79 and 83 camaros
I have a 88 dodge 360 it has the Quadrajet on it which one would you suggest I go to I pull trailers with and it seems udder powered don’t care about economy just want power it’s a farm truck
You’re not going to find the solution to more torque/hp in a carb swap. Especially if you’re out working the capacity of the truck/engine. I don’t know bay details of your set up or what you’re pulling, but typically these conversations lead to bigger problems that can’t be addressed with simple changes.
What would you recommend for an AFR Meter and what numbers would you be looking for.
There are tons of cheap AFR gauges on the market and plenty that are on the high side. I wouldn’t spend less than $100 on one. I prefer a wireless one from FAST but it’s on the high side. I did a review of that unit some years ago. Numbers really depend on what you’re doing, at what time and what the set up is.
@@MuscleCarSolutions thank you for the reply.. I'm building a 23 t bucket and will need one soon.
I just installed a 4 barrel 650 cfm Edelbrock carburetor in my rebuilt Chevy 283 engine. How can I find out what adjustments if any are needed? How do I know if it’s burning too rich or not etc..,
I’m going to assume it’s very rich. Even on a pretty aggressively built 283, that’s a lot of CFM. First watch my video on fuel system set up. There are some critical and important pieces to that system you’ll want to have and in the right order. Next go watch the video on the Edelbrock tuning chart. Will give you all the information you need to start making adjustments. Remember timing is part of tuning a carburetor. Before you even touch the carb, verify the timing is appropriate for your combination and elevation. I start at 12 initial and go up to 18 to find the right start to your timing. You’ll come back to it again. Fuel and spark are tuned together. Then start the process.
Is having that 650 cfm going to be problematic in the future or even now? I mainly drive my car on the weekends. I’m not very mechanically inclined. I know the timing was set when the carburetor was installed.
Don’t know. Your setup will dictate the size of the carb. If you watch my video on how to choose a size, it will help you determine what size you need and what the engine is capable of using.
Thanks for the help. Greatly appreciated
@@petecunes7143 anytime! Check out that video and let me know what you came up with.
40 years of in put .
I couldnt count on both hands and feet how many times someone got pushed my way cause ther holley wouldnt run ! Ive NEVER had anyone come my way cause ther edelbrock wouldnt run ! My old neighbor had a like 65 mustang .
289 4 speed . Garage talked him into a holley . And then couldnt make it run . Went to another garage and they told him he bought the wrong holley . Buy this one . He did . And they couldnt make it run either . Guy barley made it home . Herd him strugglin . Car was flooding horribly !
He asked if i would help . See ya workin on cars all the time . I told him , sorry i wont work on your holley . Ive throwin probably 30 plus holleys in the garbage . Got a edelbrock you can try . No no he says . Gotta figure this out ! Well i only know one guy that likes snd runs holley carbs . Sent him up ther . Guy tells him , you bought the wrong holley ! So the poor smuck bought a third holley . Seen him a cpl days later . Howd that work out for ya ? It didnt he says . Cars bareley running he says . You drive it he says . Ok . Soon as you gave it any gas at all it would stall bad ! Couldnt even buzz it up in neutral . Fall on its face ! Told him again . I got a edelbrock off my 390 . It was a good carb . I know it works ! Ok he says . Took about 20 mins . Had a edelbrock bolted on . Fired it up . Waaaaay happier 🤔
Test drive , you drive he says . Ok . Little 289 layed down about a good 30 foot patch rubber ! Were side ways pullin out on the highway ! You got a posi i told him . Geuss so ! The cars never ran like this before he says ! Dam little 289 hit 128 mph ! In 3rd gear ! The guy was burning a tank a gas every 2 n a half days with the holley to work and back . Guy drove 2 weeks on a tank a gas to work n back with the edelbrock ! And laid rubber doin it ! Guy called me Mr Edelbrock fr the next 2 years till he moved lol
What do i do with these 3 holleys he says ? Personally i throw em away ! Craigslist maybe ? They say thers a sucker born every min!
I was thinking of going with holly until I read this thanks
@@777smitty4 it take me a week to tell ya about all the holley ppl ive helped out by throwin q jet or edelbrock on ! I remember racing a buddy in the 80s . Hes the mechanic i sent the 289 guy 2 . Hes got a 390 , 030 over , melling class three race cam . And his boat anchor holley . We raced leavin town one day . Im in 73 lt . Stock 307 i put a q jet on . And headers . I dumped that spreadbore and came from a car length behind at the light . Ripped by that holley infected 390 and put 2 car lengths on him ! Man he was pissed when we got to his shop . Little 307 n q jet spanked his ass ! . Glad this helped ya !
What's the best set up for a 318 la at the moment stock. Want to do a build . 4 barrel with cam?? Thanks
I have a video on how to choose the right size carburetor. I’d highly suggest watching that one.
First off I want to say great video and very informative and you have a new subscriber 👍
I have an issue with my 1978 bolt main Chevy 350 board out 30 over edelbrock RV mild came edelbrock intake mechanical fuel pump no fuel pressure gauge one fuel filter between the mechanical fuel pump and carburetor.
Currently running a edelbrock 650 cfm and it's been working ok for 4 years I did not know about having to take them apart and readjusting the floats until yesterday when I put a rebuilt kit in it because i was having fuel problems such as alot of hesitation in the throttle response and gas mileage.
So like I said I took it apart cleaned it with 2 cans of carburetor cleaner blew it out with compressed air and nothing changed my 1978 350 still running like crap.
Any advice you could give me would be appreciated.
Thank you in advance
What’s the issue?
@@MuscleCarSolutions I'm so sorry I forgot to add my issue omg how stupid of me.
Anyway the issue started on Monday morning when I noticed that my engine was coughing spitting and sputtering lack of power.
I first thought it was an electrical issue so i replaced the spark plugs with distributor cap and rotor and plug wires.
Still my engine was spitting and sputtering
So I got a edelbrock rebuilt kit put it in yesterday and still it's spitting and sputtering readjusting my floats took out the 4 jets cleaned everything up put back together and sputtering when I step on the gas
Might I add brand new distributor as well new fuel pump and fuel filter.
This 350 Chevy engine is my first rebuild it's just a daily driver for work and going fishing.
So if you went through the carb and assuming it’s not an issue now, start with the simple things. What’s your initial timing and what’s your all in? Out a timing light on and verify. You mentioned a new fuel filter. You replaced it as part of your troubleshooting? What fuel pump and what do you have your pressure regulator set to?
@@MuscleCarSolutions Hi thank you for the response new fuel filter was part of the trouble shooting yes.
Timing is at 14 degrees BTD manual fuel pump no fuel pressure gauge.
The edelbrock 1406 I have has been working good for the past 4 years but all of a sudden on Monday 6/21/21 everything went south.
When i took out the needle seats there was small peaces of white plastic on both of the little fuel screens on the needle seat valves that was yesterday when i took it apart.
@@akbound.prepper5676 keep digging. If you had crap in the carb it came from somewhere. Not much more I can suggest. I’d try to track back and see what that plastic is. Sounds like it could be the root cause. On a side note, check out my video on how to properly set up a fuel system. A regulator will help and give you another adjustment point in a system that’s limited.
I have a 1988 motorhome with a Chevy 454. I'm wondering what kind of carburetor to put on that.. I just put an carter p4070 electric fuel pump on.. After watching your videos I'm going to have to put a regulator on it and I don't know whether to use a deadhead our back to the fuel tank... so what carb do you think
I have a good video that will answer that question as I can’t without more info. If you look for How to Choose the Right Size Carburetor on my channel, it will walk you though. I can help you confirm with the additional info needed. Just watch that video and you should come up with the right answer. As far as the regulator goes, it’s a great decision to run one. I prefer a return back to the tank as it keeps the fuel moving and not sitting near the hot engine for too long. If you want to run that style or the non return (deadhead) you’re still going to get mostly the same result. That level of adjustability in the fuel system that you didn’t have before.
The Edelbrock 1411 seems to be your best bet
How about a Rochester , will it work right out of the box ?
Qjets are my favorite most people hate um. They make hundreds of thousands of them
Why would you change a performance carb unless you are prepared to fine tune it ?
You’d be surprised how few carburetors actually get tuned. Idle mixture screws and idle speed and that’s it for most. That’s the extent of their “tuning”.
My eddy 600 ran great right outta the box on a junkyard 360 , little timing and pilot adjustment , chalky brown spark plugs daily driver but it's luck of the draw .
Could be. It’s not impossible, just highly rare. Plus it’s all what you’re willing to adapt to. Who knows how it will run with some tuning? 😉
@@MuscleCarSolutions Its a junkyard low compression 360 , not sure if tuning will work 🤣
@@MuscleCarSolutions I'm just about done building a 5.9 magnum with fitech efi
I'm only running 1 fuel filter. Why would a second one make it perform better?
It’s about filtering out different size particles. One catches the larger stuff, the other smaller particles.
NOTHING BEATS A DECENT HOLLEY
One solution for every application never works. Ever.
What AFR meter do you recommend? I have a Edelbrock 1405 on a bone stock ‘78 440 in a 3/4 ton truck with auto trans. It never really sees even 4000 rpm, and tach tops out at 5000. I have it running fairly decently I believe, but would like an affordable (hopefully less than $100) AFR meter to confirm that. Thanks.
You might find a narrowband AFR that is that cheap, but the feedback in limited with that style O2. I have a video on the difference in those if you want more detail. Honestly with a stock set up, I would be hard pressed to spend the money on a gauge. I can understand wanting to know to help fine tune, but I’m not sure how useful it would be. If you have it running well, I’d likely leave it be.
@@MuscleCarSolutions Ive been watching a couple older used meters on ebay Just have a hard time dropping the money for the reason you listed.
It does run fairly well. Changed the springs out, though I cant remember which ones I have in off the top of my head and changed to the highest hole on the accelerator pump to get past an off idle stumble and that worked. Also changed the rod to fatten it up a bit on the higher end. Jet is still as it came from factory. It seems to run out of gumption around 3-3500 rpm but i dont know if its because I need to change to a bigger jet or because I limited myself to the 600 cfm carb. Your opinion?
Im relatively new to automotive carbs. Have messed around with tractor and small engine carbs for a long time but the automotive ones throw me for a loop sometimes.
@@SteelSurgeon for sure you might be limited a little by the size of the carb, but it’s the operating rpm of the engine that will limit the need for a bigger carb. It’s just not needed. I just did a video on selecting carb size and cover a lower rpm application like yours. I would continue to tune, make sure your ignition/timing is right and you should continue to see better results. For sure the AFR would be helpful to use on this situation. Cheapest one I’ve used in the past is in my ultimate tuning guide video. Works well. I think at the time it was around $150.
the edlebrock for the same reason i always have said this. the edlebrock does not have a powervalve that blows out at the slightest cough.
Hey great video very helpful I have a question whats the typical carb I can use for my stock 454 cruiser it got a 1406 edelbrock right now thanks
That one could work but it depends on the situation. I’d watch my video on How to Choose the Right Size Carburetor. You’ll get the variables needed to see if that one is the right size for what you’re doing or not.
How are you recording your AFR?
My FAST AFR can record up to two minutes of data. That’s what I use to tune with.
I have a question's IF I may. I have an 1984 (I think it is) 350 cu in sbc engine. I'm gonna replace the junky old Carb on it. I'm trying to make up my mind on what to put on it. Please some HELP on this PLEASE. My engine is bone stock it's in a Chevy c-60 2-ton truck, it has an old Rochester carb now, I'm thinking either a Holly or a Edelbrock but Not sure of the correct size for the CFM's 500-600-650? I just run this truck with light loads and around 60 MPH is all.
I did a video on that to help pick a size. There is some additional info in this video that will help you get the size right. th-cam.com/video/Hy4s9B43YM0/w-d-xo.html
@@MuscleCarSolutions Thank You for the help I'll go now and check the video out Thanks again
@@DannyWalker1949 let me know if you have any questions once you determine the size
@@MuscleCarSolutions I guess I need a 500 cfm Carb.(?) the figure I came up with after your video. 350x4800/3456=486.1111 does that sound close to You, Sir? Thanks for your help on this video.👍
For a 2 ton truck? Sounds like it will be just fine for the low RPM you’ll be running. You can go up to the 600 or 650, but it’s going to run rich. Elevation is a factor also. The higher above sea level, the leaner the carburetor.
Not perfect out of the box, but they work well out of the box
I have a couple motors I'm looking for info on. My 86 monte Carlo has a stock motor in it I need a carb for the 305 that's in the car I'm looking for a carb that I can use on this motor and change to my built motor also when I change the motor out I have a 1970 300hp block 30 over with vortex heads Idk anything about the specs just don't want to buy more then one carb at this time but need something that will work on both thanks in advance for any info
Choose the carb size for what you’re going to build. It’s likely going to run awful on a stock 305, but without knowing all the details it’s impossible to say.
@@MuscleCarSolutions thank you and thanks for the reply I'm just going for a street car something fun to drive and nothing to crazy 450 or 500 hp do you think a 600 would be to big for the 305 or to small for the 350 ?
Now we’re getting somewhere on the details. The 650 AVSII sounds like it might be good for your new build. It will be too much carb for a stock 305. Will run very rich and you won’t be able to tune out of it. But if your long term goal is to build the new engine and use the same carb, then it’s just something you’ll need to work around till you get there.
@@MuscleCarSolutions thanks I have the motor built just don't want to change the motor in a 71k mile car yet just cause stock carb float is stuck
@@vinsonmiles3501 not at all a 600 is perfect for a 305 bro
Awesome video.
Geez the Volkswagen 30 pict wasn't even perfect out of the box
free flow fuerl delivery.
How do people use 750s n up on a stock motor......It is to much
Look at images of a quadrajet or thermoquad carb. The primaries are small. It’s where the engine operates most of the time and they can be calibrated to flow the amount of fuel needed for that engine in a vehicle that isn’t seeing high rpm. That’s how the factory does it and makes one size carb fit a lot of different applications.
On an aftermarket set up it all depends on what the combination of parts is, but over carburating is a common problem. Bigger isn’t alway better.
@@MuscleCarSolutions Thanks..I know it a lil crazy but I know pgmfi lol not carbs. Tryin to figr out my dads 350 lol
It’s all the same. Fuel, air, spark! Carburetors are just way less sophisticated.
@@MuscleCarSolutions I get all that lol but I guess they are
I got a stock 350 block with a Edelbrock performer rpm top end kit. What size Carburetor should I use?
Hard to say without any more info. As a guess, the 650 AVSII would likely be a good choice.
Good stuff
Contrary. I’ll tell you what. My Edelbrock 650 was NOT perfect right outta the box going on my 302 Ford small block. Not obviously that’s at least 50 CFM bigger than that engine should be able to handle, but as far as that being the only reason it wasn’t perfect, a little trip to the Calibration Kit fixed that right up. And now my ‘82 Bronco makes a buck 10 in about 12 seconds fairly easily. It’s freaking great!
Yup. Everything has to be tuned. It’s really amazing how many people just bolt on a carb and drive it without giving the tuning side any thought. Then they complain the carb is junk. lol Have fun with the Bronco! Love that body style.
Yeah they'll throw it on and it will flood or the gas mileage is horrible and they'll complain that it's the carb 🤣🤣🤣there's no competition between these two they both are great carbs
Very true!
A 302 in an 82 Bronco hitting 110 in 12 seconds?? Huh!
@@markmccarty9793
Fair. It’s a supercharged build (positive displacement and pulley ratio pushes 560 CID by 2,500 RPM), running a nasty cam, new rotating assembly, new heads, (or, was new when they were installed anyway), technically it’s bored .030 over to 306 CID Natural, 3,800 RPM Stall Torque Converter, tachs out at 8,000, but it’s still got the original 302 block. Not a single part inside of the block is stock, and I even went ahead and TIG welded some extra bracing in up in Lifter Valley to keep her from splitting in the higher power ranges. Very hard to do with cast iron, but my metallurgy has always been solid work. That outta the way, I can see where the confusion lies. Barely believed it myself, swapped a blown 460 build in a time ago and then went back to the 302 because it actually ended up being faster with weight and fuel distribution factored in.
Edit: Additional. I’ve since gone to a 750. 650 ended up choking her out after about 140 MPH. Currently putting proper wheelie bars on her because she does try to flip backwards on a hard pull. I swapped the gearing on the tranny myself awhile back along with throwing a trutrac in the front and rear diff, not to mention I built an overdrive gearbox off the T-case with a manual engagement for better highway fuel economy.
Suggestion. Keep your eyes pealed sometime in the next coupla years for a Cream an’ Blue ‘82 shitbox Bronco doing a standstill 4x4 burnout somewhere in the Lower-48 if that’s where you’re at. Flag me down for a keg of beer and a ride if you see me!
Edit: Disclaimer. Not in that order. Hahah!
the holley demon is best out of box just adjust idle and that's it.
@@toast_fairy1419 only if you (1) don’t know how to actually tune a carburetor or (2) you’re just willing to put up with whatever it gives you. Neither answer is correct.
Thermoquad used by Mopar
😆😆 that carb doesn’t get any love.
Shame is I have never had a new carb out of the box I always had to get used and rebuild my own 😢.... Oh well I haven't miss much😂
That’s the most mopar statement ever made right there! 😂 I have a LOT of mopar buddies and that’s a phrase I’ve heard before!
@@MuscleCarSolutions yeah cause Mopar guys and gals are worth their salt we tend to be very resourceful people and have to have our hands in everything!😂🇺🇸
@@moparnut6286 and you pay out the a$$ for the mopar tax!
Hands down, Holley.
😂😂😂
cool video
Quadrajet
😂😂
I had 1 edelbrock not a good 1 for me
Everything is situational. Sometimes they are perfect for an application, other times not.
You dont need a pressure regulator when you have a mechanical pump , or 2 filters , just one between the pump and the carb (to the best of my knowledge)
Absolutely you should. Several a reasons why. Stock, off the shelf pumps don’t always put out the pressure they are rated at. Having a regulator and a gauge allows you to verify what pressure it’s pushing to the carb and adjusting from there. As a tuning piece, there are plenty of times in the process where dropping or adding pressure helps to fine tune the system. Hotter climates with an ethanol based fuel might like a bit more pressure in the system. A regulator allows you to set that. It’s an analog system. Giving yourself one more adjustment point in the system is never a bad idea. Every fuel system I build, no matter what pump I use, gets a regulator and a gauge. Same goes with filters. 100 micron to stop the big stuff and a 10 micron to stop the small stuff. Having two helps keep the fuel pressure consistent. Having only one filter can restrict the system. Delivering a consistent amount of fuel at a consistent amount of pressure gives repeatable performance.
I use a 800 cfm on my 283 six cylinder big block
Spectacular! 😂
sounds a little lean, i run dual quad 1500 doninators on mine.
Whats the point of this video ? Its like he is saying when u take a bite you have to chew the food ...ofcourse needs tuning
A quick scan of the internet and people asking what carburetor to run will show plenty of responses for carbs that run perfect “right out of the the box” and that most don’t have a clue how to tune a carb.
Muscle Car Solutions is a junk channel.
Why? The guy on the video said I have to tune the carb and that's not the answer I was wanting to hear!!
haha
Neither, Quadrajet reigns supreme.
Considering practically no one knows how to tune an easy carb like an Edelbrock or Holley, the Quadrajet is by far much more complicated. Don’t know that it’s going to be the reigning champion of any thing.