Very rarely do I 100% agree with every aspect of a video but here we are! I climbed it in June 2019 and everything you said makes total sense and agreeable! We took a much smaller rack than yours and didnt struggle too much but would have preferred 8+ alpine draws and double sizes of mid-range cams. Great video and the statement at 3:06 is spot on! Especially with the backpack!
Thank you, George :) It is a really great climb! Yeah, an overhang this size and difficulty is usually not an issue for me, but it was pretty hard under those circumstances. Did you abseil back down? We decided to do the Arete des Cosmiques back to Aiguille du Midi lift station, so we had to carry all of our gear while climbing incl. mountaineering boots, crampons and an axe. Well, we also brought downjacket and a windbreaker just in case, but still I managed to fill up by 30 litre backpack.
@@Cragcloud Sorry for the late reply! We foolishly (in the conditions, physical and environmental) continued across the cosmiques. the snow was very slushy and dangerous with or without crampons. We had to abandon bivvy kit to collect the next day as the snow ridge back down was in very bad condition. Possibly heading back this summer and attempting Rebuffat-Baquet and also contamine on Point Lachenal is on the wishlist! Will you guys be out there?
@@georgehawksworth9446 Uhh, that doesn't sound nice :/ Sorry to hear about that - and good to hear that you came back safe despite of the poor conditions. Ohh yeah! The Contamine Route looks so nice! That is also one of the many climbs in Chamonix I would like to do. I am actually planning of going back in end-May/start June :)
I climbed this sunday, opted for a rarely climbed p1 variation which had a roof traverse that went at 6c ish and a no feet traverse to the anchor. The “crux” felt casual in comparison to that pitch, but altitude really catches up to you, especially when you return via the arete des cosmiques. Amazing day, all time climbing!
Went to do this route, but got fed up waiting in a queue for a guided group and went off route up to the really attractive corner in the overhang to the left visible at 2:58 on your video. Pulled that clean, and only found out later it is 6c (!). Turns out we switched onto C'est pas physique, c'est electrique. Piola, vol II, page 148. Piola (le topo du massif du Mont Blanc ) vol 1 draws this confusingly, and Piola vol 2 draws it right in my view. Probably hardest trad route move I've done to this day and at 3800m on an overhang.... We abseiled the route and got a rope caught in the power cables for a few seconds with was scary. Binned the rope after (!). Though Piola vol II, page 150 says the crux roof on rebuffat pierre is A0 or 5+/6a.
Haha, nice! :D We just beat a guided group by a few minutes when approaching so we got the upper hand in terms of getting in front. Originally, we wanted to climb Rébuffat on Aiguille du Midi, but when we hiked down Vallée Blanche in the morning there where loads of people on it already. C'est pas physique, c'est electrique sounds nice and the grades on the different pitches looks more of less the same as Rébuffat-Pierre except the crux pitch. Maybe I should give it a go. How was the overhang to protect? Getting the ropes caught in the power cables sounds gnarly! That was also why we chose just to top out and do Aréte des Cosmique. Is it not possible to top out on C'est pas physique, c'est electrique?
@@Cragcloud the 6c was a one move wonder getting out from underneath. Aidable if necessary, well protected, fixed gear there too - though it was some time ago. We left our backpacks & boots at base planning to abseil. I've done the Rebuffat on Aiguille du Midi, and it was harder overall. The c'est pas physique was really one hard move. The Aiguille Rebuffat is the more rewarding route, honestly. But the roof was so... tempting.
Also worth saying, the roof is easier if you are short. Theres a point where you hand traverse out and I pinned my feet on the point of the lip at the step. Rocking out on high feet in that space was difficult for my tall belayer when he followed. (he swore at me for the rest of the route :) )
Mountaineering is just very long bouldering ;) Naah, it is definitely different from bouldering and sport climbing, but this particular route is actually "just" trad climbing 3.800 meters above sea level - and approaching over a glacier instead of a short hike from the parking lot :) But certainly an adventure!
Hello! I am going to Chamonix soon and I am deciding whether to climb this as I have little experience jamming. I know the basics of hand jamming and foot jamming and can lead at least 6b+, onsight 7a. I have also done alpine climbs like the cosmiques arete and entreves traverse. Do you reckon me and another 7b sport climber who has little crack experience can do this route?
I have heard the Rockfax book also uncharitably referred to a Boscoe's Book of Bullshit, due to the large number of factual inaccuracies. JM Editions is recommended. Otherwise, super video! Nice pacing.
No that is actually my Sony A5100 with the 17-55 kit lens that I currently use as my main camera, when bringing a “real” camera with me climbing besides my GoPro Hero 5 Session and my DJI Mavic 2 Zoom drone 😄 A lot of kit in the backpack, but it makes awesome footage 😄
Callahan, it is a decent little beast! 😄 And it doesn’t weigh much, so it is great bringing climbing. The only thing I think it lacks is image stabilisation
Very rarely do I 100% agree with every aspect of a video but here we are!
I climbed it in June 2019 and everything you said makes total sense and agreeable! We took a much smaller rack than yours and didnt struggle too much but would have preferred 8+ alpine draws and double sizes of mid-range cams.
Great video and the statement at 3:06 is spot on! Especially with the backpack!
Thank you, George :) It is a really great climb!
Yeah, an overhang this size and difficulty is usually not an issue for me, but it was pretty hard under those circumstances.
Did you abseil back down? We decided to do the Arete des Cosmiques back to Aiguille du Midi lift station, so we had to carry all of our gear while climbing incl. mountaineering boots, crampons and an axe. Well, we also brought downjacket and a windbreaker just in case, but still I managed to fill up by 30 litre backpack.
@@Cragcloud Sorry for the late reply! We foolishly (in the conditions, physical and environmental) continued across the cosmiques. the snow was very slushy and dangerous with or without crampons. We had to abandon bivvy kit to collect the next day as the snow ridge back down was in very bad condition.
Possibly heading back this summer and attempting Rebuffat-Baquet and also contamine on Point Lachenal is on the wishlist!
Will you guys be out there?
@@georgehawksworth9446 Uhh, that doesn't sound nice :/ Sorry to hear about that - and good to hear that you came back safe despite of the poor conditions.
Ohh yeah! The Contamine Route looks so nice! That is also one of the many climbs in Chamonix I would like to do.
I am actually planning of going back in end-May/start June :)
I climbed this sunday, opted for a rarely climbed p1 variation which had a roof traverse that went at 6c ish and a no feet traverse to the anchor. The “crux” felt casual in comparison to that pitch, but altitude really catches up to you, especially when you return via the arete des cosmiques. Amazing day, all time climbing!
Went to do this route, but got fed up waiting in a queue for a guided group and went off route up to the really attractive corner in the overhang to the left visible at 2:58 on your video. Pulled that clean, and only found out later it is 6c (!). Turns out we switched onto C'est pas physique, c'est electrique.
Piola, vol II, page 148.
Piola (le topo du massif du Mont Blanc ) vol 1 draws this confusingly, and Piola vol 2 draws it right in my view.
Probably hardest trad route move I've done to this day and at 3800m on an overhang.... We abseiled the route and got a rope caught in the power cables for a few seconds with was scary. Binned the rope after (!).
Though Piola vol II, page 150 says the crux roof on rebuffat pierre is A0 or 5+/6a.
Haha, nice! :D We just beat a guided group by a few minutes when approaching so we got the upper hand in terms of getting in front. Originally, we wanted to climb Rébuffat on Aiguille du Midi, but when we hiked down Vallée Blanche in the morning there where loads of people on it already.
C'est pas physique, c'est electrique sounds nice and the grades on the different pitches looks more of less the same as Rébuffat-Pierre except the crux pitch. Maybe I should give it a go. How was the overhang to protect?
Getting the ropes caught in the power cables sounds gnarly! That was also why we chose just to top out and do Aréte des Cosmique. Is it not possible to top out on C'est pas physique, c'est electrique?
@@Cragcloud
the 6c was a one move wonder getting out from underneath. Aidable if necessary, well protected, fixed gear there too - though it was some time ago. We left our backpacks & boots at base planning to abseil.
I've done the Rebuffat on Aiguille du Midi, and it was harder overall. The c'est pas physique was really one hard move.
The Aiguille Rebuffat is the more rewarding route, honestly. But the roof was so... tempting.
Also worth saying, the roof is easier if you are short. Theres a point where you hand traverse out and I pinned my feet on the point of the lip at the step. Rocking out on high feet in that space was difficult for my tall belayer when he followed. (he swore at me for the rest of the route :) )
Amazing views! I'd love to try mountaineering one day. It's a bit different from bouldering though!
Mountaineering is just very long bouldering ;) Naah, it is definitely different from bouldering and sport climbing, but this particular route is actually "just" trad climbing 3.800 meters above sea level - and approaching over a glacier instead of a short hike from the parking lot :) But certainly an adventure!
Great content. I´m really jealous now :-)
Thank you very much!
super video :)
Thank you very much :D
Hello! I am going to Chamonix soon and I am deciding whether to climb this as I have little experience jamming. I know the basics of hand jamming and foot jamming and can lead at least 6b+, onsight 7a. I have also done alpine climbs like the cosmiques arete and entreves traverse. Do you reckon me and another 7b sport climber who has little crack experience can do this route?
I have heard the Rockfax book also uncharitably referred to a Boscoe's Book of Bullshit, due to the large number of factual inaccuracies. JM Editions is recommended. Otherwise, super video! Nice pacing.
1:35-1:39 and also 5:10, what camera are you using for these shots? Is this just a gopro because the sharpness of the background is insane.
No that is actually my Sony A5100 with the 17-55 kit lens that I currently use as my main camera, when bringing a “real” camera with me climbing besides my GoPro Hero 5 Session and my DJI Mavic 2 Zoom drone 😄 A lot of kit in the backpack, but it makes awesome footage 😄
That location is unreal. I didn't realize the a5100 could achieve that kind of sharpness in video. Really cool stuff man.
Callahan, it is a decent little beast! 😄 And it doesn’t weigh much, so it is great bringing climbing. The only thing I think it lacks is image stabilisation
Get rid of that GoPro and your videos might be good