It's been a few years, do you have an update that you could pin in the comments here? Edit: the pinned comment from 3 years ago has a reply from 1 year ago saying the system is still working well! I missed that earlier. Thank you for this video and your update! That really helps when considering this service.
Absolutely! Everything is still working fine! I am very careful about what goes down the drain, treat it monthly with Roebic K570 and/or K57, and have it pumped about every year to 18mo. Definitely worth trying over replacing the whole system.
Thanks for the video. We bought a place with a 40 yr old system that has never been pumped. We haven't had any problems with back-up, flooding, etc., but I wanted to get it addressed before we do have a problem. Just got the tank pumped, and I will add the bio clean to see how things progree.
I had a fairly new house in Alabama which always seemed to have a problem with the drainage from the field lines. I hired an air pressure service which blasted air into the ground near the lines. Fixed the problem completely.
I had the same issue last week and the Septic Guys were already to start digging and I was hearing those dollar signs go up. What I ended up doing was "jetting" the drain lines. It took about 2 hours but I got through and when I was done, the water was flowing right through.
A local company estimated $800 to jet. I put in a whole system at a rental for $5000. I don’t understand the high quotes you mentioned. I would think that a new drain field could be done for a few thousand if a whole system was $5k
Had the same problem. Had it pumped out, added "Roebic" K-57 & K-87 septic system liquid bacteria. Solved the issue and breaks down the bio matt. Now, I add two bottles ever 3-4 months. Cheap insurance !
Digging is the hardest part of plumbing work. If you are patient enough and have the physical ability to hand dig by square shovel ALL of the pipe locations to ALL locations you can replace the broken pipes yourself. You don’t need a plumber. Homeowners can do a lot more than they think they can. I am a country man and I have replaced bad leach line pipes laterals. It wasn’t that much to replace it. They were SDR 35 pipes 10 foot sections at 12.99 each.
I hear ya on that. I'm the kind of guy who likes to fix things myself and learn all the details.. Unfortunately something like this I just don't have the time for. It would have taken me weeks to get done by hand.
In the country can you get by with out reporting doing the work yourself? I don't think our township would care. They helped me put a culvert in without a permit and didn't seem much care about attention to details or paper work guys (the trustees). What happens if you don't get a permit and get reported???
@@tweeaporter5785 - further away from a big city you are, the easiest it’s get. Smaller counties have less employees, and if you ok with a local deputies ( they have to patrol all county roads ), they will let you do a lot of work without permits or stupid paperwork. When they ask what you’re doing with that excavator - tell them that you preparing an asparagus field 😉 Good luck with your projects !
I get the same responses you got. “ oh my tank was installed 477 years ago and we’ve never had it pumped” it’s almost like people are embarrassed to tell you that, yeah man mine did that, and this is what I did.
A buddy told me one of his horror stories the other day. Tank packed full, so solid you could stand on it. Never pumped in 40+ years, AND previous owners had a deck built over the tank hatch. Unbelievable the stuff people do! Anyway, it reminded me of your comment. Thanks and take care! -RS
I've use it several times and it's worked on every single one. No bull. Just make sure you know where pipe starts and ends so you don't blow through or crack the drain field. Scatter them every 4-6 ft on both sides of drain field. And some have a 2nd, 3rd, 4th drain field. Also if you still have problems chwxk the line from the tank to D box. The 1st one we did it was so filled with solids idk how water was even making it out to drain field. And don't drive heavey equipment over your newly installed or old pipes. Process of illumination is all its about. And homeowners and tenants that plant or want to plant over drain field are crazy and give them Do's and Donts and if they don't like then and it's not your property, Say audious dumbo. Dont call me me in 4-10 years claiming your drain field is backing up lol.
Had this done to my lawn 4 years ago with no problems, but the leach field failed again this past winter. The guarantee was only for a year, so I'll have to shell out the cost of doing it again. It was a Terralift repair but not the solutions fault. I suspect it has to do with a small system and using too much water. I'm looking into having grey water tanks to get some of the load off the main field.Good luck!
Jim Peterson Ouch! Yeah, the ground can only absorb so much. That, plus very low evaporation rates in winter. Thanks for your comments and best of luck to you!
Continued aeration of drain field lines. Has this ever been tried? Using a blower connected to D-box and supply air to increase aerobic bacteria. Good video. Thanks for making it.
Had a failing drain field also, I went with the tank aeration option. Ordered a septic tank aerator pump and installed a diffuser in my tank. My tank has two compartments so I use the second as the clarifier. So far it solved my drain field issues. Took about a month to see results, research says it solves the issue for life. Time will only tell.
A much cheaper solution is to put live micro organisms in the sinks and toilets, and in the tank directly if does not work. They will eat up the sludge. Better to use them before it gets that bad. A $20-$75 solution! They will help break down the solid matter in the tank too, not the tank, which is why important to apply before such a big issue. They are totally organic and no toxins.
That's what I do... At the time I shot the video, I had just moved in and the previous owners neglected the system for who knows how long.. It was already screwed from the start. Had very good luck with BioClean and Roebic. So far so good!
I have a similar problem but with a pump system. My plan is to hydro-jet the pipes and then see how they flow. If they still don't flow I can try using a drain bladder to pressurize each pipe to open up the flow, and then try applying Roebic. I think the new chamber systems are probably a huge improvement over perforated pipes.
I had this problem recently the septic company I worked with dug a drain pit along side the leach line and filled it with gravel they then tapped part of the leach field line without touching the drain pipe, water came gushing out the side of the leach field like a water fall I mean a lot of water. It started filling up the pit but they covered it all up again. Not sure how long it will last I haven't seen a video of someone doing this I just needed to buy myself some time before they install a sewer in my town.
Having problems with my field now. It is the "new" chamber system that was supposed to be the up and coming best way. Well 11 years to almost the day it's a filling backwards. According to the inspector I need a new field because all he sees is water. I guess the biomat is blocking everything. I'm going to have to see if I can find someone in South Jersey that can do this or at least tell me if they think it would be worth it. Damn, if I can get 5-10 years longer I could save to get a new system in and prep for it. Thanks for the video. Anyone in New Jersey have any idea or know any companies please let me know. Thank you and congrats on yours still going strong.
In my county, the health department doesn't allow restorations of drain fields. If it goes bad, you are required to install a mound system. Our clay soil percolates in the summer, but floods in the winter.
Plan to replace the System and triple the size of your Leech field and double up the Tank capacity. Find a Retired Septic man with equipment experience and do all the Grunt Work yourself. 2500 or 3000 at the most if your willing to work on a Weekend. It's Easy! 😀
@@jeffconley819 that is tuff maybe think about hiring some young high school or college kids for the day offer cash and hopefully you can save a fortune by avoiding some of these ridiculously over priced places..its dirt/sand and plastic pipe you can even rent a mini x ..This is not rocket science but you must use your head more than your back in doing this..best of luck
Problem with that if you're doing it yourself how do you go without a septic? Or do you just get the tank pumped and try to dig it up as fast as you can in a new spot in the yard?
There are so many different factors that can cause septics to fail so everyone's situation for repair theirs is different. This was an interesting video I am glad u shared it. Pumping of everyone's tank should be done every 2-4 years. That is the best chance for your field lines to work. Keep all runoff water away from your field lines (ie french drains, down spouts, springs etc.) Soils are bad in alot of areas where there is clay or water tables. Definitely agree with you that everyone should have a riser and lid with a septic tank. Write on the inside of your lid when you have it pumped out. Use cleanouts when your sewer line comes out of your house before your tank and your fields so u can pop a cap and see what's going on and where. Most people call and have problems when they need it fixed and they have lived there 20 years and never have had it pumped and have no idea where anything is because they forget where their tank or distribution box is. They think that pumping it will fix all their problems. Lol
some folks have reported success by adding air into their tanks. Our home has an aerobic system (Cleveland Jet Air) and the techs were nice enough to teach me the care of it.
I am installing a DIY aeration system right now, after having a problem with my field in a 55 yo house with original tank and drain field. The ground is frozen now, so I won't be able to trench back to my preferred air pump location. I did get the riser installed before the hard freezeup, and I will put the air pump on extension cord on some patio blocks right next to the riser and temporarily pipe it in for the rest of the winter. I will probably have $600 in parts and tools into the project by the time I'm done, almost all of it being the air pump. My soil is mostly sand with some gravel so I'm hoping I can make this work for the indefinite future. My neighbors have a truly massive and ancient oak tree, about 35-40 feet away from my tank, and I encountered some impressive roots when digging out the hole to install the riser. I may have to do some tree root search and destroy missions come spring. Supposedly the aeration will eventually completely clear out the bio mat out in the field.
Oh my god, bless your heart. Well if anyone is having problems with leach fields backing up. Just go and buy 5 pineapple and cut them up as if your going to eat them, but throw them in a blender and then pour them down your drain. Don't laugh, if you don't believe me. Take and buy a cheap steak hard as a rock, stick it in a ziplock bag and pour the pineapple you blended in the ziplock. Wait 2hrs and see what it did to the meat, turned it into pudding. Not sure what's in the pineapple but man it will unclog those holes in your leach field, and make them start working again. If you wanted to turn cheap steak into an expensive tender steak then only leave it in the ziplock bag for 30 to 40mins then pour the pineapple into the drain. That's how I found it works by learning how to cook better. lol
cool, just make sure you use a whole pineapple and cut the top and bottom and the sides & throw that away, then chop up the eatable parts real small then throw them in a blender. Can pineapple don't work, it has to be the whole one. It's $1.88 per pineapple so for less then $10 works great. If your lazy then you can buy a big box of kosher salt for less than $5.00 that works but slower. lol
Can't remember the last time I bought any Rid-X, I remember when the septic guy was pumping the tank and said it was going to cost 3 grand to fix my leach field. lol Nope, just 5 pineapple and every 2 or 3 months I flush the big $5.00 box of Kosher salt down the toilet and it's been fine.
I'm seeing a lot of comments saying this is a bandaid, or won't work, or will only last a couple years, blah blah blah.. Tell me why? How do you know? What's your experience?
I had the same problem at my old house, and had the terralift done. The field started draining immediately, andi it lasted 17 years before I started seeing problems again. I had the tank pumped every year.
thank for sharing this I am looking at buying a house, just had the inspection done and guess whats not working. seems anytime they had a problem with it they just added a new finger to the leach field. no one can tell me the last time it was pumped out.
Terralift requires a permit in some States and one of the reasons why is in some soils and geology such as limestone it can actually cause groundwater contamination.
My septic field had a HIGH water problem...I mean i dug down 2 foot and water came all the way to the top...I dug some trenches across the field to where the water just drained right down like magic...This was obviously a place where i dug down to the rock again in the field..I put in some french drains and bam, the yard dried right out..Also it took the pressure off my septic leach field to do it job better, not to mention back flowing into my tank, especially after a hard rain..This did'nt cost me much of anything but a work out, and time..The trenches were like 12ft or so with a slight slope to a better place to drain, and some Geo cloth, corrigated pipe with holes, and some 1 1/4 in stone , topped with top soil..If you are not familiar with how to make a french drain there is plenty of videos on the tube..Anyways its better than spending a fortune..
I have also been combating a high water issue... like my whole front yard over the septic field would turn into a lake during any extended hard rain. Turns out it was an improper drainage issue down the street. The way the ditches were routed caused water from miles away to converge on my property. County got it fixed and haven't had a problem since. So it was a combination of things.. Part of the joy of life in the country I guess.
Good video. Glad it worked for you, same issue looking at worst case as I have very hard water and we use tons of soap as there is no lather or suds and I have calcium which my experience it is like concrete when silt or salt or other debris come together. Built new and was hoping to get out of Dodge before roof and septic come calling. Ding Dong.
That baffle on the inlet is meant to direct the waste downward and away from the inlet so it doesn't float and flow back into the inlet. Guess it failed the job anyway. i was told that biomat is formed from the mucus that gut bacteria use to protect themselves. When the soil doesn't allow oxygen penetration so air breathing bacteria which eat the gut bacteria can survive then they overwhelm the soil and create the biomat. Could be wrong on that but that is what I was told causes it. It would make sense then that this air injection not only breaks up the mat but provides the needed oxygen for the good bacteria to go to work again until it is depleted.
The baffle at the inlet is designed to direct the flow of waste downward, as you stated, but it is there to prevent the waste flow from going directly to the outlet of the tank, giving the bacteria enough residence time to digest the solids in the waste.
@@philward7130 right, I know why it's there, it just seems way too close to the inlet. Probably doesn't look like it on camera but the baffle wall is only about 3 or 4 inches away.
Put an air bubbler in the tank. No more biomat. Tank last longer due to reduction in sulfur. Aero-stream sells kits for less than a grand that install in a couple hours diy.
Have you considered adding one of those air pumps and turning you system into an aerobic system? There are a lot of videos via youtube that show aerobic conversions quickly eating away that bio mat. I had a new system installed about 2 years ago and if I have problems I plan to install the air pump.
CHEAP!!! less than $200. Super charge the bacteria with Oxygen being pumped in so the bacteria numbers increase and they break down far more waste. The surface bio mat vanishes in a bout 7 to 10 days..... rather amazing.
the system is totally pumped empty prior to the job, and the tank is left empty. So once their done, I put a heavy dose of bacteria in the tank which eventually made it out to the field like normal.
@@RocketScientist I watch a video from a company in Michigan. They put bacteria in the tank, And bacteria into the ground where they pump in the air. To fill in the cracks made by the air. They claimed it would break up the hard sludge build up in the gravel.
@@charlescoker7752 I guess thats one way of doin it.. I saw another way where they inject foam beads with the air to keep the cracks open. My guys didnt really give me the option.
Hey, I really liked your video too. We bought a house back in September, 2018, in an unincorporated part of town. It has a well and septic, and like you we never owned a home with a well or septic. What a pain in the ass! The previous owner, when asked, said nothing about any problems with the system...Yeah right! We discovered last November, after a big snow and then a week later a melt off with another inch of rain that the leach field back flows into the tank... We have since discovered when the ground is saturated as it often is, water from our tank is not going anywhere for a week or more until the water table in our yard drains back down to "normal levels". Very Frustrating! I have since installed a back flow valve between the tank and the drain field and have plans to install french drains along the perimeter of our property to help move ground water to the storm drainage located in our front yard. Very hard to do excavation work in the winter months without a backhoe or excavator! We hope that adding a drainage system to our yard will greatly help our septic drain field during the wet months. So far I've had the tank pumped twice, once in December and once in February. i added a riser after the first incident so the tank has easy access. But I haven't completely solved the back flow problem? Tricky situation. No doubt as a home owner there is nothing worst than a backed up sewer system! Cheers!
Oh my goodness! You're story sounds exactly like my story. Same thing. About a few days before this happened, we had a torrential downpour that flooded the whole yard. About the only thing you can do in that case is quit flushing and wait. Septic requires some learning as I found out.
I am curious to find out if the leach field treatment you completed last year helped significantly during the rainy season? Thank you in advance for your response.
@@kevincrosson7883 so far so good. I will know more as we approach spring time. Still mostly frozen here in Northern Indiana. It's just been over a year since I had it done. I keep it treated with "BioClean" pretty regularly.
So i have this toilet in the basement that ran after being flushed for about 12 hours. It filled up both drain field tanks & started backing up into the basement floor drain. When i bought this place it had big septic problems backing up into the house & had dist. Box ,riser & snake work done. Hoping it leaches down!!! Been almost a year without any issues until the runaway commode.
This is exactly our problem. After heavy rains we flush less, WAY shorter showers, and try to limit the dishwasher and washing machine. We moved in a couple years ago and recently had the tank pumped, and the guy showed me how the water was just falling back into the tank from the leach lines! It was crazy to see! We did install french drains, but will need to add more in different places. I guess the water table is high in my part of town?
i am in a similar situation with the Leach "well" not functioning properly which was caught during inspection. im waiting on the sellers to tell what their septic guy said would be the repair. House was built in 51 and has a vinyl tank so I am assuming it has been replaced at some point. The inspector said all was working well except the drain well wasnt going down. The weird part with this system is it also has a lift pump because the septic tank is lower than the Leach well. Shouldnt the leach field be lower than the tank? with no lift pumps?
You'd think so.. Since they are supposed to operate on pressure and gravity.. I suppose the depth of the tank itself doesn't really matter as much as where the outlet to the field is.
So, it's been a couple of years now, how's it still working? I've got a field that isnt as bad as yours is, but it isn't good. I'm considering having my field air blasted and putting in a 300 gal aeration tank after my septic tank.
So far so good! I've kept it treated regularly with Roebic field treatment and BioClean, also very vigilant about what goes down the drain. I really should do an update video on a lot of my stuff.
Mine was almost 5 grand, but keep in mind how huge my system is. A buddy just had it done for a much smaller system at $2200. Plus it'll vary depending on where you are.
A third of an acre leach field?! What is your ground solid clay? We get away with much smaller area, but this is Florida mostly sand and typically no freeze.
@@RocketScientist I feel your pain and wish your luck with your system. Mine was put in 1999. The junction box is falling apart and half my leach field has failed. Looking forward to playing with a mini digger, but not much more than that.
@@grifftech Not at all! It varies on a lot of things. Mine was $6k. Huge field, huge tank.. all day labor costs.. Plus I'm pretty sure I got royally shafted since it was an emergency job. A buddy has a much smaller field and got quoted 2k from a different company. Figure going rate for the job also varies by where you live.. Never hurts to just get a quote and go from there. Either way, its bound to be cheaper than a full replacement.
I think the reason why there are so little reviews is due to how "often" this is needed - they say it lasts for 15 years, and unless you're in the house for over 20 years, you're likely never going to have to do much maintenance on the leech field.
I had this Terra Lift process done on my drain field in Sep 2014. It's now May 2018 and I have the same issue again. It actual started again in mid 20176, so only gained about 3.5 years. (I was expecting 10-15).
How do I economically fix my laterals. It did not perk right when we first had the septic and laterals installed. The locals said that was not a problem. The guy doing the work was a local. :( So, here 12 years later we've had our tank pumped twice, about a year apart. Didn't realize the laterals were the problem. The septic guy that pumped the tank showed me the top of the ground over the laterals and water was visible right above the laterals. He said there was a build up around the laterals that happens naturally, that doesn't allow the laterals to drain/seep out like they are supposed to. One arm of the lateral is under a tree and probably surrounded by roots. He said I need all new laterals for about $7000. I need help and there has to be a less expensive way. The last pumping was about 4 months ago. Suggestions??
My suggestion is to have a company other than the guy who installed it wrong to tell you what needs to be done. Oh, and never hire the cheapest labor you can find. There's a reason they're cheap.
What did the previous owner let go down the drain to get all that build up? We don’t even use a garbage disposal with our system. If you are more careful about what gets thrown down the drain, than maybe this repair will last. Leach fields can re-juvinate themselves, over time, especially if you have a diversion valve, and have the ability to rotate the drain fields.
I switch from left to right and back the next year. Each side is in service every other year. After watching videos and reading comments, I’m also going to dump a big box of enzymes in the switch box too each year.
I think a lot of the problems with systems is the use of anti-bacterial soaps and disinfectants - especially in reaction to covid. I think the bacteria killing properties of these detergents means you have to add new bacteria all the time. i've eased up on these cleaners and my system seems to have improved greatly.
Yep. I'm here now dealing with it in my new house. There needs to be better laws to protect buyers from sellers responsibility for hazard waste. Why should buyers have to fork out this much for others neglect
Laura Catalano i was trying to buy a house. The septic was 50 years old and the neighbor told me an oil truck backed over the leach field and he told the seller. She claimed ignorance and refused to drop the price or fix the problem. Expected me to just fork over150k and gamble on the septic. We backed out of that deal. Ran not walked !
Totally agree. Why do buyers have to gamble ....not knowing how the system was or wasn’t taken care of. Or what damage had been done to it over the years.
@@jeffconley819 luckily my cousin was able to fix my leach field and we past inspections. I paid good money for the area I'm in on this home and the entire system was root bound. Didnt think of checking the septic because I was making sure the well water was ok and relying on the main inspection. This will be the last time I buy a pre owned home if I ever do buy again. Now that I took care of all the issues. But this problem would have cost 10k to fix.
Maybe if you build they will come. People make sour dough bread from bacteria in the air, I'm sure the bacteria floating around just trying to land in the right environment. just like in the stomach. But by buying the right biom it will speed it up.
I would also emphasize to make sure that your septic tank does not become a breeding ground for not only bacteria but also fumes/chemicals that can result from the tank's contents sitting or festering for too long. A good snake drain camera can be useful with seeing how your tank looks from the inside. Thanks for sharing the helpful information.
Being in the business I must disagree , you want a healthy amount of bacteria that is what brakes down the solids and basically the bacteria eats so to speak much of the solids and toilet paper..i will never purposely kill or try to wash away all the bacteria. Solids don't just bake up and stay in the sludge tank ..yes the sludge tank is full of solids but on average 4 to 6 years worth even longer with a healthy bacteria colony..without bacteria your sludge tank would be full in a few months let alone years...think of it like a healthy fish tank filter on a large fish tank you want a healthy amount of bacteria to grow in the filter to brake down the waste and unused food extra..same with a healthy septic tank..Hope this helps
Bro just got the same news about my septic system and a big company told me I had to replace the entire system. I found someone that does the same process you did in yours, but they can’t work on my system till May due to the ground still being frozen
I agree get a few well as many quotes as possible you will or should see a huge margin in the price from lowest to highest..you will most likely save yourself thousands of dollars shopping around..
Don't know what Clyde means by "pumps directly into the distribution box", but we had two equal size tanks in series and no distribution box before leech field on an early 1990s house in Oakland county, MI. It was gravity system, no pumps. Maybe he meant add aeration to the second tank in such a system? If I went the aeration route to clear biomat, I'd only want to do it in a second tank out of fear the aeration would stir up the settled sludge and floating scum layers in first tank to further clog up leech field. In other words, keep a conventional anaerobic first tank followed by a separate aerobic second tank before leech field.
Hi how can I get this service? And you didn’t mentioned how much was this service of blowing air into your drainfield? I’m having the similar slow draining. No one has driven any vehicle on my drainfield other then a lawnmower. It’s less then 5 years old. I’ve been told about $6k to replace it but I’m saying why?? It’s not that old!!! Please help where and how do I find this service? Thanks
Your local septic pumping company should be able to point you in the right direction. Price depends on going rate for where you live and size of the field, that's why I didn't give a price. My system is way larger than most homes. Say, 2 to 6 grand. All I can say is get an estimate. However, if yours failed in only 5 years from new, that could be a different problem. Flushing stuff that doesn't belong, not treating it regularly with good bacteria, could be too small a system for your use, or maybe even the installer did something wrong to begin with. Or, it could just be a simple pipe blockage in the main going out of the house. I'd get a pro to check it out before you freak out. It might not be as bad as you think. Let me know what you find out!
Thanks yeah I’m still fricking out tho just call a pro to replace it $6k but I’m still waiting I think it’s a bad pipe at the connection to the drainfield I’m going to do some digging myself to find out. I’ve been unemployed since March due to this pandemic and I don’t have $6k let alone $1.00 to put into it anyways I’ll let you know thanks
@@MrCarmelo1959 you might not even need to go that far.. Get under the house and take a look. You should have a 3 or 4 inch clean-out cap on the main somewhere that you could open up and snake out without digging. That's the simple and least labor intensive place to start.
Rocket Scientist hey man your video was awesome and informative but you need take breath lol you said a lot wow nice job my drainfield is in my backyard didn’t think about any clean outs nice I’ll look and see thanks
Quick follow up on my mound. They pumped my tank and dug up the end of the mound with an excavator. They found the pipes and jetted them. Now I wait 3 weeks to see if the alarm goes off again. I hope not. Total cost 2000-4000$. Not sure of the final price. If this doesn't work I may need a whole new system. 15,000-30,000$. I don't have a good alternate site.
I did a little research on the bio clean and rid ex. I saw one video where biosolids were partly consumed by the additive. But someone made a comment that some septic people advise against this. There is a 3 layer liquid in the holding tank. Slime on top liquid in the middle and solids at the bottom. The outflow is from the middle. The additive will tend to dissolve the solids into the middle layer and potentially cause problems with sludge. So it may be best to avoid these per some septic people because the design is to have the solids settle to the bottom. The rid ex bio clean makes the solids float which may be bad. But I'm no expert just reading stuff.
@@lcagee wow you must have a huge drain field? I can't understand the prices I do this work for a living and have never dug into a drain field to jet just a few pipes .. if I dig I replace also we do quite a few drain fields from 3,000 to 10,000 but most under 5000.00 check around to make sure your getting a fair price..i just need to say that I would have never just jetted a few pipes..and hoped for the best, I make sure the issue is 100% fixed ..anyway best of luck
Just wanted to add something important. I bought a new home on 2011. The builder told me it didn’t really have to be cleaned it was newer technology. He also told us to use ridx one a month . A few years later , we needed a larger house so we sold it. Before the inspection, I cleaned it (2015) . The septic guy told me don’t use ridx it ruins the septic . When the inspector came by the buyers he asked me the last time I got a pump out and i told him 3 weeks prior yet there was still solids inside . (That was #1) our new house has an older system . Since the septic guy told me not to use ridx I never did and 3 years go by . Now (2019) we need to sell this house to relocate for a new job and I’ve been using the same septic co. So the buyers bring their septic co into inspect and we failed miserably. Now we have to repair the leach . Be careful when you buy a home . We accepted the sellers to this homes inspection report and we should have paid to do our own. ALWAYS DO YOUR OWN SEPTIC INSPECTIONS. Also septic co are scammers bec we found out that this fk septic guy I’ve been using is really just pumping out water and leaving solids and charging us for false cleaning . The ridx he told us to stop using actually works and eats the bacteria living in the leach. Be wary about septic co who also do installs Bec most of the time they will mess with your system and then turn around one year and tell you , you need a new system . Don’t trust septic companies . It’s hard to see if they are really doing clean outs and always use ridx
What a damn nightmare! I was also told never to use rid x. I use a product called "BioClean" basically rid x on steroids. Works excellent. I also do a Roebic field treatment once in a while. So far so good. Now if this rain would stop so the water table would lower a bit, that'd be great. Yeah, I basically walked into 40 years of neglect that needed to be corrected, yet the inspectors were like, "yeah! Totally fine!" I was very close to sueing the sellers for failure to disclose it. It was so bad there's no way they didn't know. Seems like people are out to screw you either way!
Somewhere back east few years ago lighting struck ground over a septic tank. Big fire ball and explosion came up in toilet. Good thing no one was on it..
Got a long one for you. My brother and I (both retired) moved up to eastern Washington to my sisters place. Within a week after getting there the septic backs up. Of coarse it was my fault for flushing the toilet. I hand dig up her septic tank that has only one riser on it, she is not sure where the other opening to the septic tank is, so I start digging. After opening a 5x15 trench 4 ft deep I find the cover and the dry well (another type of leach field) dry well has failed so pumping will just take the fluid out and not fix the problem. Property is near a river so will be a problem to solve. Cutting the gray water input has helped stop the back up, working OK now. Told my sister I couldn't understand why she was having so much trouble as I had never pumped my septic at home back south. I go back south for a visit and just have a look in one of the clean outs behind the house and its backing up. Great. I check what I thought was the opening for the septic tank and dropped a sewer snake down the pipe, 33 feet to fluid? Turns out it was the dry well drain field. The problem was the septic tank plugged full. They had to chop and pump to get it cleaned out. I don't think I'll tease my sister anymore about her septic problems, and I'll pump the tank out regularly. We hadn't pumped the tank in the 20 years we had lived there, I guess out of sight out of mind, lesson learned.
Yep still working beautifully! Mine was about $5,000, but keep in mind my leach field is very large. 200x100ft w/ 6 laterals. A smaller field would definitely be cheaper, plus price varies depending on whatever the going rate is in your area.
@@RocketScientist thanks for the quick reply....I'm actually a septic contractor and looking at adding this as an option down the road but need more longterm feedback...thanks again
@@Highsnows33 no problem! You caught me with phone in hand. Allow me to expand on that. I've pumped it out twice since just as a precaution, and I keep it treated with Bio-Clean and Roebic field treatment. The only potential negative I've started to notice is during extended downpours, water backflows into the tank and takes about a day to go back down. I think that's not so much the system's fault given that I'm in the lowest spot around. Any other ? I'd be happy to help you out!
@@RocketScientist have you considered installing a back flow valve from the field to the tank? It sounds like this part of the problem may have existed all along. Thanks for sharing your experience. No septic issues with my system, yet, but i'm trying to learn what others do to fix them as mine is 22 yrs old and well..just a matter of time.
@@andrewmcgrath1765 yes actually.. I'm more inclined to install a pump system with backflow preventer. That water issue seems to have resolved, and was mostly caused by poor drainage on my road. County just fixed that and have had zero issues since. So we shall see.
The bio mat will reseal eventually as it is the bacteria that causes it. There are a number of bacterial supplements that you can use to slow down the resealing of the bio mat that will help but what is not being said by the sellers of cleaning supplies (laundry and otherwise) and drain cleaners is what effect the product has on leach fields and your bacterial mass in your septic tank and leach filed. A newer product I have just recently seen uses a solution that changes the ph alkalinity from acidity in your septic and it makes a lot of sense. I have never heard of ph tests for septic systems. It is possible the acid (low ph) bacteria may be causing more of a bio mat build up. Water sewage treatment systems use aeration to promote bacterial growth to recycle water to keep their systems from backing up. Pumping your system every couple of years is recommended but the home owner should consider it mandatory preventive maintenance. I too have seen the air treatment type of work you had done. It's a big system. I'm curious diy you see how they mapped out your system or was that records from the instillation?
@@RocketScientist Yes ph is very important. It can make a difference in which bacteria live. Just like our gut biome is very diverse at certain stages. As well swamps and many lakes have that bio mat and as a rule will be more acidic. I believe public sewage systems run at neutral or a little less but it has been quite some time since I watched a video explaining how they work. But they have to maintain their discharge so as not to destabilize our rivers. Many splash/spray treatment water on rocks to oxygenate the water to support a certain type of bacteria or enzymes.
Still working great! I keep it treated religiously with Roebic products, pumped out about every 18 months just to keep my mind at ease. Definitely look into it.
FML I'm in the same boat. I did the home inspection and said no on the septic. About 2 weeks later had to have it pumped now another 2 weeks I have to have it replaced...
I'm going to have to get my mother in law septic system fixed very soon. A lot of ground water is showing. If you don't mind me asking, how much was this service?
My tank backed up yesterday (i live in northern ontario canada) we had a long cold winter up here im hoping its just due to snow melt and frost .. had the shit sucker here today $205.00 for a quick suck job heres hoping my field isnt plugged up
@@markkoerner8870to answer your question about how much experience I have on it. I Read through books and books and watched a lot of videos. It's more hands on then anything. I'd say 5-6 years experience now. I took over for our guy about 5 years after we bought it. And watched him when he used it and he let me use it to get the hang of it. Except he didn't make holes finding exactly where the pipes ran so he could have smashed a few drain field pipes. Now smashing one or a couple won't hurt the drain field pipe bc the probe is a small hole and your just going past it. And you can usually tell when you hit a hard pipe. Then just back out, recalculate or in my case I snap a line from dbox to the end of dbox. So I have a start and ending. I don't dig up the whole field just beginning and end So I don't puncture anything. Measuring is key. And I've never seen water on top like some of these videos. Our dirt is farm land so unless it's been filling up for a years or 2 you wouldn't see it. It would Just come back into dbox. We originally had good installers 40 years ago. Ours are pretty basic. Best thing is to find the ends or if you can see the green spot 60-90-1203012006C Ft. long more then likely that's your drain fields but I always double check bc I'm not paying for a new drain field. Then I chalk line it or use a spray can bottle to mark it. Its a no no-brainer. Again look at the design/Emblem on the machine, it shows what it does except blows down and out making a lot more water now ready to go into the ground and then the dirt helps absorb it. The white pellets the probe blows out absorb water and tell me that I'm where I need to be. Your opening hundreds of new areas for water openings. You can rent them, so I hear. Probably more red tape involved. The only thing we ran into on the terralift itself was the on/off power box that connects by a twist clockwise to tighten or anticlockwise to remove it, while holding the top firmly, remove it. Then plug it back in resetting it. Once we did that to many times we ordered a new one and it now works like a charm going on 3 years. It was just a faulty switch, only one of the most important parts, without it you can't terralift. **(ALSO- KEEP YOUR BATTERY CHARGED, NEVER EVER JUMP START IT FROM A CAR. Use a battery charger or you'll most likely ruin your 30k machine. GOOD LUCK Everyone and be Safe!
Excellent question! By proper regular septic treatments introducing good bacteria that will eat it, pumping at least every couple years, not flushing stuff down the drain that will kill off beneficial bacteria, like bleach, excessive amounts of soap, chemicals, etc. A big one is food particles. They don't dissolve very well and often float out to the leech field and plug up the holes. Water then stagnates and biomat will form. Unfortunately my system had been horribly neglected for about 30 years before I moved in. Just about 1 year and still good after this job!
Install a sani Y to the outlet of the tank with a piece of pipe a couple feet long downwards. It is way better than a baffle system. Be sure the top of it is above waste water level. It will stop solids leaving the tank.
Yes, if you inject air into the liquid only side of the septic tank, the biomat material will over time (perhaps a few months) at least greatly decrease so I understand. Look up aerobic and anaerobic septic
I have seen a few and some people have told me it totally fixed there drain field by getting the bacteria to really get going and clear out the drain field pipes and the tank ext..one man just told me he tried it before spending way more on a new drain field so far it's a little better but not fixed he still has his tank pumped about every 4 to 6 weeks but it's better than it was being pumped every w to 3 so time will tell
Curious how the jimbo working the terra lift machine knew that he wouldn't hit and ruin a drain field line when shoving that 'probe' into the ground in the septic field.
There is a transmitter on the end of their camera snake and a receiver similar to a metal detector they use top side to locate the lines. That's what all those orange flags in the yard are for. Locating the field and utilities is the first thing they do.
Still working great! Mine was about $5500, but I have a very large system. A buddy has a much smaller field and was quoted 2k. So it depends on size and going rate for your area. All I can say is get an estimate.
label613 it was an environmental company who did mine. I'd start with asking your septic pumpers. They can at least point you in the right direction! Best of luck!
So far so good! No more issues that I'm aware of. I've been keeping it treated with a product called "Bio Clean." and I'm extremely careful what I let go down the drain.
Depending as to where you live... they have messed crap up with stupid laws.... if you have a conventional system, you should never have to have it pumped... when you pump your tank out the bacteria beds die off, forming that greasy hard junk so water don't flow through it, they did this to created job security for the septic pumper and now the installer, I had worked on septic systems for many years before the laws were changed. I have seen systems that were over 200 yrs old still working great! This may be a temp fix for now, now they got some Styrofoam stuff in a net like thing with a pipe running through it for the goop to trap on to. So after you have the take pumped it will not harden in the pipe and still drain. That's why I now have 2 separate systems... and when the tank is pumped, I switch drain fields every 3 yrs.
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It's been a few years, do you have an update that you could pin in the comments here?
Edit: the pinned comment from 3 years ago has a reply from 1 year ago saying the system is still working well! I missed that earlier. Thank you for this video and your update! That really helps when considering this service.
Absolutely! Everything is still working fine! I am very careful about what goes down the drain, treat it monthly with Roebic K570 and/or K57, and have it pumped about every year to 18mo. Definitely worth trying over replacing the whole system.
@@RocketScientistthanks for the update!
Thanks for the video. We bought a place with a 40 yr old system that has never been pumped. We haven't had any problems with back-up, flooding, etc., but I wanted to get it addressed before we do have a problem. Just got the tank pumped, and I will add the bio clean to see how things progree.
I had a fairly new house in Alabama which always seemed to have a problem with the drainage from the field lines. I hired an air pressure service which blasted air into the ground near the lines. Fixed the problem completely.
I had the same issue last week and the Septic Guys were already to start digging and I was hearing those dollar signs go up. What I ended up doing was "jetting" the drain lines. It took about 2 hours but I got through and when I was done, the water was flowing right through.
A local company estimated $800 to jet. I put in a whole system at a rental for $5000. I don’t understand the high quotes you mentioned. I would think that a new drain field could be done for a few thousand if a whole system was $5k
@@techguy9023maybe where you live but King county Seattle Washington you're looking at $35,000 minimum.
Had the same problem. Had it pumped out, added "Roebic" K-57 & K-87 septic system liquid bacteria. Solved the issue and breaks down the bio matt. Now, I add two bottles ever 3-4 months. Cheap insurance !
Digging is the hardest part of plumbing work. If you are patient enough and have the physical ability to hand dig by square shovel ALL of the pipe locations to ALL locations you can replace the broken pipes yourself. You don’t need a plumber. Homeowners can do a lot more than they think they can. I am a country man and I have replaced bad leach line pipes laterals. It wasn’t that much to replace it. They were SDR 35 pipes 10 foot sections at 12.99 each.
I hear ya on that. I'm the kind of guy who likes to fix things myself and learn all the details.. Unfortunately something like this I just don't have the time for. It would have taken me weeks to get done by hand.
In the country can you get by with out reporting doing the work yourself? I don't think our township would care. They helped me put a culvert in without a permit and didn't seem much care about attention to details or paper work guys (the trustees). What happens if you don't get a permit and get reported???
@@tweeaporter5785 - further away from a big city you are, the easiest it’s get. Smaller counties have less employees, and if you ok with a local deputies ( they have to patrol all county roads ), they will let you do a lot of work without permits or stupid paperwork.
When they ask what you’re doing with that excavator - tell them that you preparing an asparagus field 😉
Good luck with your projects !
I get the same responses you got. “ oh my tank was installed 477 years ago and we’ve never had it pumped” it’s almost like people are embarrassed to tell you that, yeah man mine did that, and this is what I did.
A buddy told me one of his horror stories the other day. Tank packed full, so solid you could stand on it. Never pumped in 40+ years, AND previous owners had a deck built over the tank hatch. Unbelievable the stuff people do! Anyway, it reminded me of your comment. Thanks and take care! -RS
I've use it several times and it's worked on every single one. No bull. Just make sure you know where pipe starts and ends so you don't blow through or crack the drain field. Scatter them every 4-6 ft on both sides of drain field. And some have a 2nd, 3rd, 4th drain field. Also if you still have problems chwxk the line from the tank to D box. The 1st one we did it was so filled with solids idk how water was even making it out to drain field. And don't drive heavey equipment over your newly installed or old pipes.
Process of illumination is all its about. And homeowners and tenants that plant or want to plant over drain field are crazy and give them Do's and Donts and if they don't like then and it's not your property, Say audious dumbo. Dont call me me in 4-10 years claiming your drain field is backing up lol.
Had this done to my lawn 4 years ago with no problems, but the leach field failed again this past winter. The guarantee was only for a year, so I'll have to shell out the cost of doing it again. It was a Terralift repair but not the solutions fault. I suspect it has to do with a small system and using too much water. I'm looking into having grey water tanks to get some of the load off the main field.Good luck!
Jim Peterson Ouch! Yeah, the ground can only absorb so much. That, plus very low evaporation rates in winter. Thanks for your comments and best of luck to you!
Continued aeration of drain field lines. Has this ever been tried? Using a blower connected to D-box and supply air to increase aerobic bacteria. Good video. Thanks for making it.
Aerate the tank, the grey water. There's machines available.
I had this done and with annual tank pumping it lasted 10 years.
dbltrplx so it didn’t work? I don’t understand the “moron” part
Lmao @ “That’s what she said”
Great video, very informative, great "soundtrack" lol. Thank you~
Had a failing drain field also, I went with the tank aeration option. Ordered a septic tank aerator pump and installed a diffuser in my tank. My tank has two compartments so I use the second as the clarifier. So far it solved my drain field issues. Took about a month to see results, research says it solves the issue for life. Time will only tell.
Late to respond, I know.. How's this working for you so far? Mine is still good, but aeration is my backup plan to avoid installing a mound system.
@@RocketScientist So far so good, it took about 3 days to convert. Started seeing results after a month. So far the system continues to work.
What brand/type of aeration system did you use?
A much cheaper solution is to put live micro organisms in the sinks and toilets, and in the tank directly if does not work. They will eat up the sludge. Better to use them before it gets that bad. A $20-$75 solution! They will help break down the solid matter in the tank too, not the tank, which is why important to apply before such a big issue. They are totally organic and no toxins.
That's what I do... At the time I shot the video, I had just moved in and the previous owners neglected the system for who knows how long.. It was already screwed from the start. Had very good luck with BioClean and Roebic. So far so good!
Interesting way of reviving a leach field.I hope it works.
I have a similar problem but with a pump system. My plan is to hydro-jet the pipes and then see how they flow. If they still don't flow I can try using a drain bladder to pressurize each pipe to open up the flow, and then try applying Roebic. I think the new chamber systems are probably a huge improvement over perforated pipes.
I had this problem recently the septic company I worked with dug a drain pit along side the leach line and filled it with gravel they then tapped part of the leach field line without touching the drain pipe, water came gushing out the side of the leach field like a water fall I mean a lot of water. It started filling up the pit but they covered it all up again. Not sure how long it will last I haven't seen a video of someone doing this I just needed to buy myself some time before they install a sewer in my town.
Having problems with my field now. It is the "new" chamber system that was supposed to be the up and coming best way. Well 11 years to almost the day it's a filling backwards. According to the inspector I need a new field because all he sees is water. I guess the biomat is blocking everything. I'm going to have to see if I can find someone in South Jersey that can do this or at least tell me if they think it would be worth it. Damn, if I can get 5-10 years longer I could save to get a new system in and prep for it. Thanks for the video. Anyone in New Jersey have any idea or know any companies please let me know. Thank you and congrats on yours still going strong.
In my county, the health department doesn't allow restorations of drain fields. If it goes bad, you are required to install a mound system. Our clay soil percolates in the summer, but floods in the winter.
What country is this? Must have a high water table. I lived in Houston. Texas and the water table was only 8 feet in places.
Plan to replace the System and triple the size of your Leech field and double up the Tank capacity. Find a Retired Septic man with equipment experience and do all the Grunt Work yourself. 2500 or 3000 at the most if your willing to work on a Weekend.
It's Easy! 😀
Royce Anderson wish I could do the work . I’m disabled and can’t do the work.
I'm in the business and he's right on , I couldn't have said it better myself
@@jeffconley819 that is tuff maybe think about hiring some young high school or college kids for the day offer cash and hopefully you can save a fortune by avoiding some of these ridiculously over priced places..its dirt/sand and plastic pipe you can even rent a mini x ..This is not rocket science but you must use your head more than your back in doing this..best of luck
Richard Gordon all turned good. The previous homeowner ended up paying for the job.
Problem with that if you're doing it yourself how do you go without a septic? Or do you just get the tank pumped and try to dig it up as fast as you can in a new spot in the yard?
There are so many different factors that can cause septics to fail so everyone's situation for repair theirs is different. This was an interesting video I am glad u shared it. Pumping of everyone's tank should be done every 2-4 years. That is the best chance for your field lines to work. Keep all runoff water away from your field lines (ie french drains, down spouts, springs etc.) Soils are bad in alot of areas where there is clay or water tables. Definitely agree with you that everyone should have a riser and lid with a septic tank. Write on the inside of your lid when you have it pumped out. Use cleanouts when your sewer line comes out of your house before your tank and your fields so u can pop a cap and see what's going on and where. Most people call and have problems when they need it fixed and they have lived there 20 years and never have had it pumped and have no idea where anything is because they forget where their tank or distribution box is. They think that pumping it will fix all their problems. Lol
some folks have reported success by adding air into their tanks. Our home has an aerobic system (Cleveland Jet Air) and the techs were nice enough to teach me the care of it.
I am installing a DIY aeration system right now, after having a problem with my field in a 55 yo house with original tank and drain field. The ground is frozen now, so I won't be able to trench back to my preferred air pump location. I did get the riser installed before the hard freezeup, and I will put the air pump on extension cord on some patio blocks right next to the riser and temporarily pipe it in for the rest of the winter. I will probably have $600 in parts and tools into the project by the time I'm done, almost all of it being the air pump. My soil is mostly sand with some gravel so I'm hoping I can make this work for the indefinite future. My neighbors have a truly massive and ancient oak tree, about 35-40 feet away from my tank, and I encountered some impressive roots when digging out the hole to install the riser. I may have to do some tree root search and destroy missions come spring. Supposedly the aeration will eventually completely clear out the bio mat out in the field.
Oh my god, bless your heart. Well if anyone is having problems with leach fields backing up. Just go and buy 5 pineapple and cut them up as if your going to eat them, but throw them in a blender and then pour them down your drain. Don't laugh, if you don't believe me. Take and buy a cheap steak hard as a rock, stick it in a ziplock bag and pour the pineapple you blended in the ziplock. Wait 2hrs and see what it did to the meat, turned it into pudding. Not sure what's in the pineapple but man it will unclog those holes in your leach field, and make them start working again. If you wanted to turn cheap steak into an expensive tender steak then only leave it in the ziplock bag for 30 to 40mins then pour the pineapple into the drain. That's how I found it works by learning how to cook better. lol
Pineapple? That's probably the most crazy yet interesting thing I've heard yet. I'm gonna have to try that now just out of curiosity! Thanks!
+Rocket Scientist sure thing. i started out with kosher salt but my god pineapple works 100 times better. 😉
I am going to try this.
cool, just make sure you use a whole pineapple and cut the top and bottom and the sides & throw that away, then chop up the eatable parts real small then throw them in a blender. Can pineapple don't work, it has to be the whole one. It's $1.88 per pineapple so for less then $10 works great. If your lazy then you can buy a big box of kosher salt for less than $5.00 that works but slower. lol
Can't remember the last time I bought any Rid-X, I remember when the septic guy was pumping the tank and said it was going to cost 3 grand to fix my leach field. lol Nope, just 5 pineapple and every 2 or 3 months I flush the big $5.00 box of Kosher salt down the toilet and it's been fine.
Great info! Hope it works long term.
I'm seeing a lot of comments saying this is a bandaid, or won't work, or will only last a couple years, blah blah blah.. Tell me why? How do you know? What's your experience?
I had the same problem at my old house, and had the terralift done. The field started draining immediately, andi it lasted 17 years before I started seeing problems again. I had the tank pumped every year.
Had the terralift done in 2009 and everything was going good till the prick farmer redid the drainage off his field that now floods my field bed.
Do you have an update??? Is it still working well?
@@paulgardner5955 Yep! still working fine!
@@RocketScientist I have a drip septic system. Not sure if it works with that system. But good to hear about yours. Thanks for the reply.
thank for sharing this I am looking at buying a house, just had the inspection done and guess whats not working. seems anytime they had a problem with it they just added a new finger to the leach field. no one can tell me the last time it was pumped out.
Yikes! Well, glad you discovered this before buying. I'd choose a company you trust and make the seller pay for correcting their "repairs".
On a seepage pit we use caustic soda. Would that work on a leach field ?
Terralift requires a permit in some States and one of the reasons why is in some soils and geology such as limestone it can actually cause groundwater contamination.
Your video just gave me some relief
What was the cost to have the service done ?
My septic field had a HIGH water problem...I mean i dug down 2 foot and water came all the way to the top...I dug some trenches across the field to where the water just drained right down like magic...This was obviously a place where i dug down to the rock again in the field..I put in some french drains and bam, the yard dried right out..Also it took the pressure off my septic leach field to do it job better, not to mention back flowing into my tank, especially after a hard rain..This did'nt cost me much of anything but a work out, and time..The trenches were like 12ft or so with a slight slope to a better place to drain, and some Geo cloth, corrigated pipe with holes, and some 1 1/4 in stone , topped with top soil..If you are not familiar with how to make a french drain there is plenty of videos on the tube..Anyways its better than spending a fortune..
I have also been combating a high water issue... like my whole front yard over the septic field would turn into a lake during any extended hard rain. Turns out it was an improper drainage issue down the street. The way the ditches were routed caused water from miles away to converge on my property. County got it fixed and haven't had a problem since. So it was a combination of things.. Part of the joy of life in the country I guess.
Good video. Glad it worked for you, same issue looking at worst case as I have very hard water and we use tons of soap as there is no lather or suds and I have calcium which my experience it is like concrete when silt or salt or other debris come together. Built new and was hoping to get out of Dodge before roof and septic come calling. Ding Dong.
There's chemical solutions available to remedy whatever issue you have. Do a search for it.
That baffle on the inlet is meant to direct the waste downward and away from the inlet so it doesn't float and flow back into the inlet. Guess it failed the job anyway. i was told that biomat is formed from the mucus that gut bacteria use to protect themselves. When the soil doesn't allow oxygen penetration so air breathing bacteria which eat the gut bacteria can survive then they overwhelm the soil and create the biomat. Could be wrong on that but that is what I was told causes it. It would make sense then that this air injection not only breaks up the mat but provides the needed oxygen for the good bacteria to go to work again until it is depleted.
The baffle at the inlet is designed to direct the flow of waste downward, as you stated, but it is there to prevent the waste flow from going directly to the outlet of the tank, giving the bacteria enough residence time to digest the solids in the waste.
@@philward7130 right, I know why it's there, it just seems way too close to the inlet. Probably doesn't look like it on camera but the baffle wall is only about 3 or 4 inches away.
Put an air bubbler in the tank. No more biomat. Tank last longer due to reduction in sulfur. Aero-stream sells kits for less than a grand that install in a couple hours diy.
Have you considered adding one of those air pumps and turning you system into an aerobic system? There are a lot of videos via youtube that show aerobic conversions quickly eating away that bio mat. I had a new system installed about 2 years ago and if I have problems I plan to install the air pump.
How much would the aerobic system cost?
CHEAP!!! less than $200. Super charge the bacteria with Oxygen being pumped in so the bacteria numbers increase and they break down far more waste. The surface bio mat vanishes in a bout 7 to 10 days..... rather amazing.
@@NewEnglandReptile Had you used the aerobic system and where did you get one for $200? Thanks
@@timusa3937 is it still working?
@@timusa3937 would be cool if there were O2 bombs you could flush and release O2 slowly like alkaselser.
Did they put bacteria in the septic tank. And in the air induced holes, and cracks in the field?
the system is totally pumped empty prior to the job, and the tank is left empty. So once their done, I put a heavy dose of bacteria in the tank which eventually made it out to the field like normal.
@@RocketScientist I watch a video from a company in Michigan. They put bacteria in the tank, And bacteria into the ground where they pump in the air. To fill in the cracks made by the air. They claimed it would break up the hard sludge build up in the gravel.
@@charlescoker7752 I guess thats one way of doin it.. I saw another way where they inject foam beads with the air to keep the cracks open. My guys didnt really give me the option.
Hey, I really liked your video too. We bought a house back in September, 2018, in an unincorporated part of town. It has a well and septic, and like you we never owned a home with a well or septic. What a pain in the ass! The previous owner, when asked, said nothing about any problems with the system...Yeah right! We discovered last November, after a big snow and then a week later a melt off with another inch of rain that the leach field back flows into the tank... We have since discovered when the ground is saturated as it often is, water from our tank is not going anywhere for a week or more until the water table in our yard drains back down to "normal levels". Very Frustrating! I have since installed a back flow valve between the tank and the drain field and have plans to install french drains along the perimeter of our property to help move ground water to the storm drainage located in our front yard. Very hard to do excavation work in the winter months without a backhoe or excavator! We hope that adding a drainage system to our yard will greatly help our septic drain field during the wet months. So far I've had the tank pumped twice, once in December and once in February. i added a riser after the first incident so the tank has easy access. But I haven't completely solved the back flow problem? Tricky situation. No doubt as a home owner there is nothing worst than a backed up sewer system! Cheers!
Oh my goodness! You're story sounds exactly like my story. Same thing. About a few days before this happened, we had a torrential downpour that flooded the whole yard. About the only thing you can do in that case is quit flushing and wait. Septic requires some learning as I found out.
I am curious to find out if the leach field treatment you completed last year helped significantly during the rainy season? Thank you in advance for your response.
@@kevincrosson7883 so far so good. I will know more as we approach spring time. Still mostly frozen here in Northern Indiana. It's just been over a year since I had it done. I keep it treated with "BioClean" pretty regularly.
So i have this toilet in the basement that ran after being flushed for about 12 hours. It filled up both drain field tanks & started backing up into the basement floor drain. When i bought this place it had big septic problems backing up into the house & had dist. Box ,riser & snake work done. Hoping it leaches down!!! Been almost a year without any issues until the runaway commode.
This is exactly our problem. After heavy rains we flush less, WAY shorter showers, and try to limit the dishwasher and washing machine. We moved in a couple years ago and recently had the tank pumped, and the guy showed me how the water was just falling back into the tank from the leach lines! It was crazy to see! We did install french drains, but will need to add more in different places. I guess the water table is high in my part of town?
Is the H3 Alpha?
Terra Lifting is illegal in PA and many other areas. I went with the aeration system option from AeroStream and it solve my bio mat issues.
Really? Any idea what their reasoning is to make it illegal? Aeration is my next step if this fails again. So far so good though, knock on wood!
I ordered a Aero Stream system today. I hope it gets my leach field back to flowing correctly again. How has yours been?
Is this offered in California? Thanks
We would like to build one...how much PSI and how big of air tank?
No idea, but alot.. And big.
i am in a similar situation with the Leach "well" not functioning properly which was caught during inspection. im waiting on the sellers to tell what their septic guy said would be the repair. House was built in 51 and has a vinyl tank so I am assuming it has been replaced at some point. The inspector said all was working well except the drain well wasnt going down. The weird part with this system is it also has a lift pump because the septic tank is lower than the Leach well. Shouldnt the leach field be lower than the tank? with no lift pumps?
You'd think so.. Since they are supposed to operate on pressure and gravity.. I suppose the depth of the tank itself doesn't really matter as much as where the outlet to the field is.
Thank you, I learned a lot. Awesome video!
I put live microorganisms in monthly put pumped yearly and still had probs.
So, it's been a couple of years now, how's it still working? I've got a field that isnt as bad as yours is, but it isn't good. I'm considering having my field air blasted and putting in a 300 gal aeration tank after my septic tank.
So far so good! I've kept it treated regularly with Roebic field treatment and BioClean, also very vigilant about what goes down the drain. I really should do an update video on a lot of my stuff.
@@RocketScientist Thanks!
Yes having the same issue how much did they charge you
Mine was almost 5 grand, but keep in mind how huge my system is. A buddy just had it done for a much smaller system at $2200. Plus it'll vary depending on where you are.
A third of an acre leach field?! What is your ground solid clay? We get away with much smaller area, but this is Florida mostly sand and typically no freeze.
Yep, good old northern Indiana clay.
@@RocketScientist I feel your pain and wish your luck with your system. Mine was put in 1999. The junction box is falling apart and half my leach field has failed. Looking forward to playing with a mini digger, but not much more than that.
I just came across this as I am looking at having this done. Hope it works
Well, so far so good on my end. still working just fine
@@RocketScientist if you don’t mind me asking. What did the aeration restoration cost?
@@grifftech Not at all! It varies on a lot of things. Mine was $6k. Huge field, huge tank.. all day labor costs.. Plus I'm pretty sure I got royally shafted since it was an emergency job. A buddy has a much smaller field and got quoted 2k from a different company. Figure going rate for the job also varies by where you live.. Never hurts to just get a quote and go from there. Either way, its bound to be cheaper than a full replacement.
I think the reason why there are so little reviews is due to how "often" this is needed - they say it lasts for 15 years, and unless you're in the house for over 20 years, you're likely never going to have to do much maintenance on the leech field.
Jordan Eilbert Yeah you're probably right on that. Kind of a one and done thing.
I had this Terra Lift process done on my drain field in Sep 2014. It's now May 2018 and I have the same issue again. It actual started again in mid 20176, so only gained about 3.5 years. (I was expecting 10-15).
Mike Chavez Good to know! Thanks so much!
cut up pineapple, blend it down, and flush it. they say to use kosher salt also. just reading comments. good luck
@@chavezm1954 how much did you pay for service? What type of soil do you have? rocky, CLAY, sand , BED ROCK?.
How do I economically fix my laterals. It did not perk right when we first had the septic and laterals installed. The locals said that was not a problem. The guy doing the work was a local. :( So, here 12 years later we've had our tank pumped twice, about a year apart. Didn't realize the laterals were the problem. The septic guy that pumped the tank showed me the top of the ground over the laterals and water was visible right above the laterals. He said there was a build up around the laterals that happens naturally, that doesn't allow the laterals to drain/seep out like they are supposed to. One arm of the lateral is under a tree and probably surrounded by roots. He said I need all new laterals for about $7000. I need help and there has to be a less expensive way. The last pumping was about 4 months ago. Suggestions??
My suggestion is to have a company other than the guy who installed it wrong to tell you what needs to be done. Oh, and never hire the cheapest labor you can find. There's a reason they're cheap.
What did the previous owner let go down the drain to get all that build up? We don’t even use a garbage disposal with our system. If you are more careful about what gets thrown down the drain, than maybe this repair will last. Leach fields can re-juvinate themselves, over time, especially if you have a diversion valve, and have the ability to rotate the drain fields.
I switch from left to right and back the next year. Each side is in service every other year. After watching videos and reading comments, I’m also going to dump a big box of enzymes in the switch box too each year.
I think a lot of the problems with systems is the use of anti-bacterial soaps and disinfectants - especially in reaction to covid. I think the bacteria killing properties of these detergents means you have to add new bacteria all the time. i've eased up on these cleaners and my system seems to have improved greatly.
Yep. I'm here now dealing with it in my new house. There needs to be better laws to protect buyers from sellers responsibility for hazard waste. Why should buyers have to fork out this much for others neglect
Laura Catalano i was trying to buy a house. The septic was 50 years old and the neighbor told me an oil truck backed over the leach field and he told the seller. She claimed ignorance and refused to drop the price or fix the problem. Expected me to just fork over150k and gamble on the septic. We backed out of that deal. Ran not walked !
Totally agree. Why do buyers have to gamble ....not knowing how the system was or wasn’t taken care of. Or what damage had been done to it over the years.
@@jeffconley819 luckily my cousin was able to fix my leach field and we past inspections. I paid good money for the area I'm in on this home and the entire system was root bound. Didnt think of checking the septic because I was making sure the well water was ok and relying on the main inspection. This will be the last time I buy a pre owned home if I ever do buy again. Now that I took care of all the issues. But this problem would have cost 10k to fix.
Be careful many inspection reports that cost 500.00 are good for that day only..just a heads up!!
That machine is so awesome. I wish I had access to one.
Thanks. Maybe put in an aerator now? It is supposed to create the right aerobic bacteria to dissolve the biomat.
I've been thinking about that. If anything, as an insurance policy.
@@RocketScientist i am buying a house with an old septic next week. I plan to aerate.
Maybe if you build they will come. People make sour dough bread from bacteria in the air, I'm sure the bacteria floating around just trying to land in the right environment. just like in the stomach. But by buying the right biom it will speed it up.
How is the TerraLift holding up?
really good! no issues!
I would also emphasize to make sure that your septic tank does not become a breeding ground for not only bacteria but also fumes/chemicals that can result from the tank's contents sitting or festering for too long. A good snake drain camera can be useful with seeing how your tank looks from the inside. Thanks for sharing the helpful information.
VERDICT SQUAD So far so good. Definitely gonna keep an eye on it..
Being in the business I must disagree , you want a healthy amount of bacteria that is what brakes down the solids and basically the bacteria eats so to speak much of the solids and toilet paper..i will never purposely kill or try to wash away all the bacteria. Solids don't just bake up and stay in the sludge tank ..yes the sludge tank is full of solids but on average 4 to 6 years worth even longer with a healthy bacteria colony..without bacteria your sludge tank would be full in a few months let alone years...think of it like a healthy fish tank filter on a large fish tank you want a healthy amount of bacteria to grow in the filter to brake down the waste and unused food extra..same with a healthy septic tank..Hope this helps
My son and I dug everything up and now it's all done.
Did you replace all the gravel?
No ,just take a pick and loosen the old gravel up so it will drain.
I still have leech field problem. This process worked for you? What did it cost? Thank you, bret dorton
Yep it worked. Price depends on going rate for your area and size of the system. Best i can say is get an estimate.
Thank you
Bro just got the same news about my septic system and a big company told me I had to replace the entire system. I found someone that does the same process you did in yours, but they can’t work on my system till May due to the ground still being frozen
Hmm... Not sure how frozen your ground is, but I'd get a second opinion.
I agree get a few well as many quotes as possible you will or should see a huge margin in the price from lowest to highest..you will most likely save yourself thousands of dollars shopping around..
Wouldn't it be easier to just add it to the second tank, which pumps directly into the distribution box?
Add what?
I think he's talking about adding a second tandem septic tank to his system. How would that even work?
Don't know what Clyde means by "pumps directly into the distribution box", but we had two equal size tanks in series and no distribution box before leech field on an early 1990s house in Oakland county, MI. It was gravity system, no pumps. Maybe he meant add aeration to the second tank in such a system? If I went the aeration route to clear biomat, I'd only want to do it in a second tank out of fear the aeration would stir up the settled sludge and floating scum layers in first tank to further clog up leech field. In other words, keep a conventional anaerobic first tank followed by a separate aerobic second tank before leech field.
I don't think this is allowed in MA, because it works, that's why
Any updates?
Still flowing great!
Hi how can I get this service? And you didn’t mentioned how much was this service of blowing air into your drainfield? I’m having the similar slow draining. No one has driven any vehicle on my drainfield other then a lawnmower. It’s less then 5 years old. I’ve been told about $6k to replace it but I’m saying why?? It’s not that old!!! Please help where and how do I find this service? Thanks
Your local septic pumping company should be able to point you in the right direction. Price depends on going rate for where you live and size of the field, that's why I didn't give a price. My system is way larger than most homes. Say, 2 to 6 grand. All I can say is get an estimate. However, if yours failed in only 5 years from new, that could be a different problem. Flushing stuff that doesn't belong, not treating it regularly with good bacteria, could be too small a system for your use, or maybe even the installer did something wrong to begin with. Or, it could just be a simple pipe blockage in the main going out of the house. I'd get a pro to check it out before you freak out. It might not be as bad as you think. Let me know what you find out!
Thanks yeah I’m still fricking out tho just call a pro to replace it $6k but I’m still waiting I think it’s a bad pipe at the connection to the drainfield I’m going to do some digging myself to find out. I’ve been unemployed since March due to this pandemic and I don’t have $6k let alone $1.00 to put into it anyways I’ll let you know thanks
@@MrCarmelo1959 you might not even need to go that far.. Get under the house and take a look. You should have a 3 or 4 inch clean-out cap on the main somewhere that you could open up and snake out without digging. That's the simple and least labor intensive place to start.
Rocket Scientist hey man your video was awesome and informative but you need take breath lol you said a lot wow nice job my drainfield is in my backyard didn’t think about any clean outs nice I’ll look and see thanks
Great video.. Saved me much $
This is a great video. Thanks. I have a mound system that's plugged up. They were out digging for the pipes but no luck yet.
lcagee Thanks! My pipes were completely clear. It was the muck built up in the stone beds. Best of luck to you!
Quick follow up on my mound. They pumped my tank and dug up the end of the mound with an excavator. They found the pipes and jetted them. Now I wait 3 weeks to see if the alarm goes off again. I hope not. Total cost 2000-4000$. Not sure of the final price. If this doesn't work I may need a whole new system. 15,000-30,000$. I don't have a good alternate site.
lcagee ooh dang! Hope you dont have to replace the whole thing. Try adding some Bio-Clean too Its like rid x on steroids.
I did a little research on the bio clean and rid ex. I saw one video where biosolids were partly consumed by the additive. But someone made a comment that some septic people advise against this. There is a 3 layer liquid in the holding tank. Slime on top liquid in the middle and solids at the bottom. The outflow is from the middle. The additive will tend to dissolve the solids into the middle layer and potentially cause problems with sludge. So it may be best to avoid these per some septic people because the design is to have the solids settle to the bottom. The rid ex bio clean makes the solids float which may be bad. But I'm no expert just reading stuff.
@@lcagee wow you must have a huge drain field? I can't understand the prices I do this work for a living and have never dug into a drain field to jet just a few pipes .. if I dig I replace also we do quite a few drain fields from 3,000 to 10,000 but most under 5000.00 check around to make sure your getting a fair price..i just need to say that I would have never just jetted a few pipes..and hoped for the best, I make sure the issue is 100% fixed ..anyway best of luck
How's this working 2 years later?
So far so good! Scroll through some of the recent comments. I went into a bit of detail with my experiences so far
Just wanted to add something important. I bought a new home on 2011. The builder told me it didn’t really have to be cleaned it was newer technology. He also told us to use ridx one a month . A few years later , we needed a larger house so we sold it. Before the inspection, I cleaned it (2015) . The septic guy told me don’t use ridx it ruins the septic . When the inspector came by the buyers he asked me the last time I got a pump out and i told him 3 weeks prior yet there was still solids inside . (That was #1)
our new house has an older system . Since the septic guy told me not to use ridx I never did and 3 years go by . Now (2019) we need to sell this house to relocate for a new job and I’ve been using the same septic co. So the buyers bring their septic co into inspect and we failed miserably. Now we have to repair the leach . Be careful when you buy a home . We accepted the sellers to this homes inspection report and we should have paid to do our own. ALWAYS DO YOUR OWN SEPTIC INSPECTIONS. Also septic co are scammers bec we found out that this fk septic guy I’ve been using is really just pumping out water and leaving solids and charging us for false cleaning . The ridx he told us to stop using actually works and eats the bacteria living in the leach. Be wary about septic co who also do installs Bec most of the time they will mess with your system and then turn around one year and tell you , you need a new system . Don’t trust septic companies . It’s hard to see if they are really doing clean outs and always use ridx
What a damn nightmare! I was also told never to use rid x. I use a product called "BioClean" basically rid x on steroids. Works excellent. I also do a Roebic field treatment once in a while. So far so good. Now if this rain would stop so the water table would lower a bit, that'd be great.
Yeah, I basically walked into 40 years of neglect that needed to be corrected, yet the inspectors were like, "yeah! Totally fine!" I was very close to sueing the sellers for failure to disclose it. It was so bad there's no way they didn't know. Seems like people are out to screw you either way!
Somewhere back east few years ago lighting struck ground over a septic tank. Big fire ball and explosion came up in toilet. Good thing no one was on it..
Wow! The more you know :)
Hi, what is the name of the company who helped you out? We need ours done!
they're local to me, relatively small operation. I'd say call a reputable plumber and they will probably know where to go for this job.
Looks good to me
Would this work in black clay from South Texas?
Ehh.. Really don't know. I'm in northern Indiana and soils are very different from TX.
Were are you from in northern indiama
Thanks I never heard of this I’ll have to see if anyone here can do this , yes am having trouble!
Got a long one for you. My brother and I (both retired) moved up to eastern Washington to my sisters place. Within a week after getting there the septic backs up. Of coarse it was my fault for flushing the toilet. I hand dig up her septic tank that has only one riser on it, she is not sure where the other opening to the septic tank is, so I start digging. After opening a 5x15 trench 4 ft deep I find the cover and the dry well (another type of leach field) dry well has failed so pumping will just take the fluid out and not fix the problem. Property is near a river so will be a problem to solve. Cutting the gray water input has helped stop the back up, working OK now.
Told my sister I couldn't understand why she was having so much trouble as I had never pumped my septic at home back south. I go back south for a visit and just have a look in one of the clean outs behind the house and its backing up. Great. I check what I thought was the opening for the septic tank and dropped a sewer snake down the pipe, 33 feet to fluid? Turns out it was the dry well drain field. The problem was the septic tank plugged full. They had to chop and pump to get it cleaned out. I don't think I'll tease my sister anymore about her septic problems, and I'll pump the tank out regularly. We hadn't pumped the tank in the 20 years we had lived there, I guess out of sight out of mind, lesson learned.
Wow what a pain! Hope everything stays working good.
is a perc test required when replacing existing drain field
Yes
Would love an update on the leach/drain field restoration....still working??? Also, rough idea on the cost? Thanks for sharring!
Yep still working beautifully! Mine was about $5,000, but keep in mind my leach field is very large. 200x100ft w/ 6 laterals. A smaller field would definitely be cheaper, plus price varies depending on whatever the going rate is in your area.
@@RocketScientist thanks for the quick reply....I'm actually a septic contractor and looking at adding this as an option down the road but need more longterm feedback...thanks again
@@Highsnows33 no problem! You caught me with phone in hand. Allow me to expand on that. I've pumped it out twice since just as a precaution, and I keep it treated with Bio-Clean and Roebic field treatment. The only potential negative I've started to notice is during extended downpours, water backflows into the tank and takes about a day to go back down. I think that's not so much the system's fault given that I'm in the lowest spot around. Any other ? I'd be happy to help you out!
@@RocketScientist have you considered installing a back flow valve from the field to the tank? It sounds like this part of the problem may have existed all along. Thanks for sharing your experience. No septic issues with my system, yet, but i'm trying to learn what others do to fix them as mine is 22 yrs old and well..just a matter of time.
@@andrewmcgrath1765 yes actually.. I'm more inclined to install a pump system with backflow preventer. That water issue seems to have resolved, and was mostly caused by poor drainage on my road. County just fixed that and have had zero issues since. So we shall see.
The bio mat will reseal eventually as it is the bacteria that causes it. There are a number of bacterial supplements that you can use to slow down the resealing of the bio mat that will help but what is not being said by the sellers of cleaning supplies (laundry and otherwise) and drain cleaners is what effect the product has on leach fields and your bacterial mass in your septic tank and leach filed. A newer product I have just recently seen uses a solution that changes the ph alkalinity from acidity in your septic and it makes a lot of sense. I have never heard of ph tests for septic systems. It is possible the acid (low ph) bacteria may be causing more of a bio mat build up. Water sewage treatment systems use aeration to promote bacterial growth to recycle water to keep their systems from backing up. Pumping your system every couple of years is recommended but the home owner should consider it mandatory preventive maintenance. I too have seen the air treatment type of work you had done. It's a big system. I'm curious diy you see how they mapped out your system or was that records from the instillation?
that ph idea sounds very interesting.. they didnt really "map" it per se, but i watched them do the whole job and saw where they located everything..
@@RocketScientist Yes ph is very important. It can make a difference in which bacteria live. Just like our gut biome is very diverse at certain stages. As well swamps and many lakes have that bio mat and as a rule will be more acidic. I believe public sewage systems run at neutral or a little less but it has been quite some time since I watched a video explaining how they work. But they have to maintain their discharge so as not to destabilize our rivers. Many splash/spray treatment water on rocks to oxygenate the water to support a certain type of bacteria or enzymes.
How did this work for you? It seems we might have this problem.
Still working great! I keep it treated religiously with Roebic products, pumped out about every 18 months just to keep my mind at ease. Definitely look into it.
That’s what she said. I saw that.
FML I'm in the same boat. I did the home inspection and said no on the septic. About 2 weeks later had to have it pumped now another 2 weeks I have to have it replaced...
Ouch bro. Yep, mine lasted 1 month after moving in.
I'm going to have to get my mother in law septic system fixed very soon. A lot of ground water is showing. If you don't mind me asking, how much was this service?
It varies by area. Around me anywhere from 3 to 5 thousand.
@@RocketScientist thanks. I was looking for a good round about guestament.
My tank backed up yesterday (i live in northern ontario canada) we had a long cold winter up here im hoping its just due to snow melt and frost .. had the shit sucker here today $205.00 for a quick suck job heres hoping my field isnt plugged up
Ahh that's what she said.. Hahaha good luck!
Terralift the drain field. Wow people do your research. It works. Good job. It's worked 7 times for us. Using Terralift.
Thanks for comment. You said it worked 7 times for you....??? Hope not used on same field. How long did you experiece a Terralift field?
@@markkoerner8870 Hey Mark, no it worked on seven different leach fields and counting. I've gotten quit good at a $30k machine. 😖
@@markkoerner8870to answer your question about how much experience I have on it. I Read through books and books and watched a lot of videos. It's more hands on then anything. I'd say 5-6 years experience now. I took over for our guy about 5 years after we bought it. And watched him when he used it and he let me use it to get the hang of it. Except he didn't make holes finding exactly where the pipes ran so he could have smashed a few drain field pipes. Now smashing one or a couple won't hurt the drain field pipe bc the probe is a small hole and your just going past it. And you can usually tell when you hit a hard pipe. Then just back out, recalculate or in my case I snap a line from dbox to the end of dbox. So I have a start and ending. I don't dig up the whole field just beginning and end So I don't puncture anything. Measuring is key.
And I've never seen water on top like some of these videos. Our dirt is farm land so unless it's been filling up for a years or 2 you wouldn't see it. It would Just come back into dbox. We originally had good installers 40 years ago. Ours are pretty basic. Best thing is to find the ends or if you can see the green spot 60-90-1203012006C Ft. long more then likely that's your drain fields but I always double check bc I'm not paying for a new drain field. Then I chalk line it or use a spray can bottle to mark it.
Its a no no-brainer. Again look at the design/Emblem on the machine, it shows what it does except blows down and out making a lot more water now ready to go into the ground and then the dirt helps absorb it. The white pellets the probe blows out absorb water and tell me that I'm where I need to be. Your opening hundreds of new areas for water openings. You can rent them, so I hear. Probably more red tape involved.
The only thing we ran into on the terralift itself was the on/off power box that connects by a twist clockwise to tighten or anticlockwise to remove it, while holding the top firmly, remove it. Then plug it back in resetting it. Once we did that to many times we ordered a new one and it now works like a charm going on 3 years. It was just a faulty switch, only one of the most important parts, without it you can't terralift.
**(ALSO- KEEP YOUR BATTERY CHARGED, NEVER EVER JUMP START IT FROM A CAR. Use a battery charger or you'll most likely ruin your 30k machine. GOOD LUCK Everyone and be Safe!
Is there a way to avoid the bio mat forming
Excellent question! By proper regular septic treatments introducing good bacteria that will eat it, pumping at least every couple years, not flushing stuff down the drain that will kill off beneficial bacteria, like bleach, excessive amounts of soap, chemicals, etc. A big one is food particles. They don't dissolve very well and often float out to the leech field and plug up the holes. Water then stagnates and biomat will form. Unfortunately my system had been horribly neglected for about 30 years before I moved in. Just about 1 year and still good after this job!
Install a sani Y to the outlet of the tank with a piece of pipe a couple feet long downwards. It is way better than a baffle system. Be sure the top of it is above waste water level. It will stop solids leaving the tank.
Yes, if you inject air into the liquid only side of the septic tank, the biomat material will over time (perhaps a few months) at least greatly decrease so I understand. Look up aerobic and anaerobic septic
Look up "Septic Genie" for treating and then permanently preventing biomat formation to restore a intact system like yours.
Not a bad idea those aeration systems. If this one fails again that's most likely what I'll go with. Thanks!
I have seen a few and some people have told me it totally fixed there drain field by getting the bacteria to really get going and clear out the drain field pipes and the tank ext..one man just told me he tried it before spending way more on a new drain field so far it's a little better but not fixed he still has his tank pumped about every 4 to 6 weeks but it's better than it was being pumped every w to 3 so time will tell
I had styrofoam and air injected into my leach fields, and wasn’t cheap. Lasted a few years but would not do it again.
How can I get in touch with these people. I have a system fail they want 20k for a new system.
Call around to your local septic pump guys.. They usually know everyone else in the business and can point you in the right direction.
Curious how the jimbo working the terra lift machine knew that he wouldn't hit and ruin a drain field line when shoving that 'probe' into the ground in the septic field.
There is a transmitter on the end of their camera snake and a receiver similar to a metal detector they use top side to locate the lines. That's what all those orange flags in the yard are for. Locating the field and utilities is the first thing they do.
@@RocketScientist
Thanks.
How you call this marching?
Not sure what you mean.
How much did this cost?
He said $2-5K, his leach field was larger, so closer to $5,000
What’s the cost?
Still working great! Mine was about $5500, but I have a very large system. A buddy has a much smaller field and was quoted 2k. So it depends on size and going rate for your area. All I can say is get an estimate.
I need this asap. Not sure if anyone does it in my area.
label613 it was an environmental company who did mine. I'd start with asking your septic pumpers. They can at least point you in the right direction! Best of luck!
Edward Hiatt Wow sorry you had to go through all that! Yeah there are some shady people out there. Luckily the folks I dealt with are not.
Terra lifting?
That's what the machine is called. Terra Lift.
Give an update plz
Update: It still works fine!
Bought my house five years ago. First time on septic.. it sucks, i would pay to go back on city.
Where to rent this machine/
I highly doubt you will find this machine for rent to the general public. It's not as simple as a lawn mower.
Glad it all worked!
Still working okay?
Yes sir!
How is the leach field working one year later?
So far so good! No more issues that I'm aware of. I've been keeping it treated with a product called "Bio Clean." and I'm extremely careful what I let go down the drain.
Consider running this past your local Building/Health Department. A permit is usually required to molest septic systems.
The company I hired to do the job takes care of the permits, but good point to note as some of the more "fly-by-night" companies may not.
Depending as to where you live... they have messed crap up with stupid laws.... if you have a conventional system, you should never have to have it pumped... when you pump your tank out the bacteria beds die off, forming that greasy hard junk so water don't flow through it, they did this to created job security for the septic pumper and now the installer, I had worked on septic systems for many years before the laws were changed. I have seen systems that were over 200 yrs old still working great! This may be a temp fix for now, now they got some Styrofoam stuff in a net like thing with a pipe running through it for the goop to trap on to. So after you have the take pumped it will not harden in the pipe and still drain. That's why I now have 2 separate systems... and when the tank is pumped, I switch drain fields every 3 yrs.