If the concrete substrate is extremely dense relative to the overlay, that overlay is not going to last. Today is correct the PSI of both materials should match. However you can use a high PSI overlay on the low density slab. Also these polymerized overlays don't stain well and you will see a discontinuity from the two materials. The exceptionist is if you use a coating over the entire surface.
Just what I was looking for but you knew what strength psi your Original concrete was I’m thinking most of us don’t , Is there anyway to identify what ours is especially if we weren’t in the residents when the Spaulding began also did you cover what brand of products you used and were to purchase it ? Thanks in advance
I have a 1957 ranch house with an equally old concrete driveway. There are cracks across the drive that the previous owner filled with caulking which look terrible. There is some spalling in areas as well. I think the drive needs some more control joints cut into it. I live in Southwest Michigan where we get more freeze/thaw cycles per year that just about anywhere else on the planet. Would you recommend a polymer modified cementitious coating for this particular instance?
had new home last summer and the broom finish entrance to my garage is spalling after this winter.Must not of been done correctly to withstand the weather?Not sealed correctly and or right mixture
Interesting: I worked in the Construction Industry for 60 years; accordingly, jargon is no problem!! We live in Philippines (Subic BAY) in a precast concrete house built in the 60's for the US Military Navy, by them, now the EXPOSED precast roof slab SOFFITES along the underside of the exposed roof overlap has in places spalled -- not too bad --- but pieces of concrete have fallen off, chunks, pieces, quite a few about 2 feet long by 12" wide an inch to two inches thick, exposing rebar. I am fully aware about your wise words regarding original surface preparation work and Sika products, which in the past I have used successfully, are available here. By all means recommend others if superior. My question/s is/are: what primer do I use on the original prepared concrete soffite to facilitate adhesion between original concrete and the repair material, and what sand and cement mix (Strength of MIX 1 to 1 --?? ) PLUS Cement ADDITIVE -- again what kind and type of PRIMER do I apply to the original soffites for good adhesion lasting repair. I assume I should clean and paint the exposed rebar with WHAT -- RED LEAD?? The condition of which is NOT BAD and then apply the sand and cement after priming the original surface. In total maybe about 10 to 20 % of the total surface area has been affected. Can you help ME????
I have just purchased a house that has spalled walls in the basement. The spalling is about 1/2 inch thick. The walls had been painted with Drylock paint and the peeling paint with the spalling makes for one ugly wall. What should I do?
In our garage, where the wood walls meet the foundation, the concrete is disintegrating, literally powdering, so you can broom it away, until you get down to the solid concrete. It has done this each of the last two years. What is this called, and how can i fix it?
It’s called efflorescence of concrete. There is water buildup behind the wall and its makings it’s making its way through the concrete. Concrete is a porous material. I’m surprised where the wood meets the concrete, it’s not rotting as well.
Regarding PPE - you may also need some face mask coverings, not just eye protection and gloves, such as a NIOSH mask or N-95 mask, because some cementitious material may contain crystalline silica in it. Crystalline silica dust is very dangerous to your lungs, and get enough of it into your lungs, it can lead to death.
any advice would be great! We poured our own concrete patio brand new with footings and all and then it started breaking apart and crumbling, now it looks like a bunch of rocks. It still has rocks and small pieces coming out of it 6 months later, how can we fix it to look new again? please email me with suggestions and names of the products to use at beth1723@gmail.com thanks for your help.
Best and most articulate speaker about resurfacing cement driveways. Thank you.
Yeah thank you for keeping the repair material secret, you nit!
Good video, thanks! But what was up with the red flashes?
If the concrete substrate is extremely dense relative to the overlay, that overlay is not going to last. Today is correct the PSI of both materials should match. However you can use a high PSI overlay on the low density slab. Also these polymerized overlays don't stain well and you will see a discontinuity from the two materials. The exceptionist is if you use a coating over the entire surface.
Just what I was looking for but you knew what strength psi your Original concrete was I’m thinking most of us don’t , Is there anyway to identify what ours is especially if we weren’t in the residents when the Spaulding began also did you cover what brand of products you used and were to purchase it ? Thanks in advance
I have a 1957 ranch house with an equally old concrete driveway.
There are cracks across the drive that the previous owner filled with caulking which look terrible. There is some spalling in areas as well. I think the drive needs some more control joints cut into it.
I live in Southwest Michigan where we get more freeze/thaw cycles per year that just about anywhere else on the planet.
Would you recommend a polymer modified cementitious coating for this particular instance?
What you recommend to repair bigger areas, any grinder machine bigger than any normal grinder and material that can be cured in 1 hr for Highways?
had new home last summer and the broom finish entrance to my garage is spalling after this winter.Must not of been done correctly to withstand the weather?Not sealed correctly and or right mixture
Interesting:
I worked in the Construction Industry for 60 years; accordingly, jargon is no problem!! We live in Philippines (Subic BAY) in a precast concrete house built in the 60's for the US Military Navy, by them, now the EXPOSED precast roof slab SOFFITES along the underside of the exposed roof overlap has in places spalled -- not too bad --- but pieces of concrete have fallen off, chunks, pieces, quite a few about 2 feet long by 12" wide an inch to two inches thick, exposing rebar.
I am fully aware about your wise words regarding original surface preparation work and Sika products, which in the past I have used successfully, are available here. By all means recommend others if superior. My question/s is/are: what primer do I use on the original prepared concrete soffite to facilitate adhesion between original concrete and the repair material, and what sand and cement mix (Strength of MIX 1 to 1 --?? ) PLUS Cement ADDITIVE -- again what kind and type of PRIMER do I apply to the original soffites for good adhesion lasting repair. I assume I should clean and paint the exposed rebar with WHAT -- RED LEAD?? The condition of which is NOT BAD and then apply the sand and cement after priming the original surface.
In total maybe about 10 to 20 % of the total surface area has been affected.
Can you help ME????
Ok great. But...whats the product name. What climate application. How thick. How many coats for very bad pitted concrete. ?
What is the mix you used? Went on your website and couldn't find it. Thanks for the great video. 👍
0:30 for video start
How do you repair spalling on stamped concrete?
Dr. WN Sisto interested in this too.
after this resurfacing is done using this product can a decorative acid stain be used?
Yes. But let the topping cure for at least 30 days before you acid-stain it.
Who is the manufacturer of the specific product he used?
It would be nice to know the products used to repair the spalling. Isn't that kind of important??
Go to decorative concrete manufacturers' websites.
He linked to the products in the description.
It's very important. But perhaps more important is the need to pay attention to the details.
I have just purchased a house that has spalled walls in the basement. The spalling is about 1/2 inch thick. The walls had been painted with Drylock paint and the peeling paint with the spalling makes for one ugly wall. What should I do?
You could always pressure wash the concrete to get most debris and paint off first.
Thank you for the helpful video.
In our garage, where the wood walls meet the foundation, the concrete is disintegrating, literally powdering, so you can broom it away, until you get down to the solid concrete. It has done this each of the last two years. What is this called, and how can i fix it?
It's called a major repair.
It’s called efflorescence of concrete. There is water buildup behind the wall and its makings it’s making its way through the concrete. Concrete is a porous material. I’m surprised where the wood meets the concrete, it’s not rotting as well.
What about the Horrrrrrrible mismatched color after?,.......
As he said this was just the start I suspect he took advantage of a larger job to show the example. The rest was to be done as well.
Luke and Owen Wilson’s long lost brother
You forgot your dust mask for all that silica dust
Name the product!
It’s hard to do what ur trying to do! Let’s see it down the road? I’m a sullivan with 35+ in construction I fix more than build “
Regarding PPE - you may also need some face mask coverings, not just eye protection and gloves, such as a NIOSH mask or N-95 mask, because some cementitious material may contain crystalline silica in it. Crystalline silica dust is very dangerous to your lungs, and get enough of it into your lungs, it can lead to death.
Good video..
any advice would be great! We poured our own concrete patio brand new with footings and all and then it started breaking apart and crumbling, now it looks like a bunch of rocks. It still has rocks and small pieces coming out of it 6 months later, how can we fix it to look new again? please email me with suggestions and names of the products to use at beth1723@gmail.com thanks for your help.
Always a great idea to post your email address publicly. SMH.