2 solution to the rought iddle : 1. the map sensor : to diagnose a bad map sensor : disconnect it and run the car : if the car run smother it's the map sensor. You may have broke it during swap. 2. The egr : it may be clogged up or malfunctioning and this is why the previous owner block the egr. Try to block the egr again (as original) and see if run rought. Good vidéo from France 🇨🇵
Nice "Italian tune up" required. It'll blow all the crap out and pull the air out of the fuel lines. Great to see you working on it again, my favourite car of yours.
I’m a apprentice in a back street garage and this pipe was my first job on my own and I dropped the only me 8m bold down the bell housing so had to fish that out with a magnet took me 35 mins😂
That air filter was filthy too. You need to wash it. Sit it in a bucket with some Persil washing powder and really hot water. Just half a cup of powder. Let that soak for 30mins. Then you need to rinse it through with a hose but from the clean side (inside) to the dirty side. So you push the dirt out. Leave to dry in the airing cupboard overnight. Ideally you should spray with K&N oil on the outside. Or a very light spray all over the outside with wd40.
The TDCI re-learns each cylinder over a 15 minute period. You’ve changed the dynamics of the combustion process by adding the EGR back to the engine that the ECU has adapted to live without. You’ll need to run the engine for an hour to allow all 4 cylinders to be re-adapted then it should return to normal.
When you changed the injector seals you removed the fuel lines. Is all the air bled from the lines? Diesel is prone not to start well after being removed from the fuel. Might just need priming. Thanks for the upload :)
@@arnoldkul3827 Actually you have to. At first start the proper solution is revving the engine. These engines are famous for air inlet in the fuel system. :)
@@nagymatyika That's not what I meant, what you said might be useful, I meant like you bleed the old tipe of Diesel engines with the Bosch injection pump, to unscrew the injector bolts and bleed the engine until only Diesel comes out and not air. The modern Common Rail engines are self bleeding. That means once the engine starts it should bleed itself out pretty quickly and the engine will run normal again, I'm not sure if it's anything specific to these Ford CRDI engines but I'm suspecting that the EGR is not working correctly and that's why the car is running like crap as he gets all those fault codes for the EGR or some bad vacuum hoses that can cause an air leak. But could be anything really with those modern Diesel engines. A proper scan tool for diagnosing is your friend in such a case.
The filter could need changing because the car has been sat for a while and Diesel causes bacteria in the filter which causes it to block and causes it to run like crap because blocked filters Will lead to a Fuel supply issue Starving The pump
CONGRATULATIONS ON 70K you deserve it. I love watching your videos and seeing your posts on Instagram. Great man and I hope you and your family are healthy and safe.
Could be the previous owner had the egr mapped out when they did the egr delete so now you have put an egr back on it the ECU doesn't recognise it causing it to run rough. Congrats on 70k and its great to have you back uploading!
Love your video's James, hope you regain your enthusiasm for making them. Hope you and your family stay safe and come out the other end of the tragedy unscathed
It's good to see another of your videos, James. I know K&N filters have a good reputation, but they aren't the best filter media, and if oiled too heavily, the oil can be drawn onto the MAF, causing problems.
The ECU needs to re-learn after fitting EGR. Best way is to remove battery for an hour, re connect, drive normally through all gears and varying speeds.
Two possible reasons which I can see, If the egr valve is stuck open it will allow unmetered air in.. causing this. Usually not a problem if they're stuck closed. Or air lock in the injector pipes , guessing you removed them to fit the seals.. they're usually self bleeding but you could crack them a bit of a turn at the injector and see if fuel comes out when it's running. Be careful though with high pressure fuel and use a rag if you do do it!
I am fairly new to diesels and i recently changed injector seals on a 1.3multijet, it does sound like air in your system, bleed it out by whatever method is right for that engine and i reckon it will be spot on afterwards.
Sounds like the drive belt is on its way mate and crank pulley 😊. Just unslacken the union if there's any air in the fuel the ones on top of the injectors 1 at a time then tighten back up.
Hi James, hope you are well. I've had it in the past where when you disconnect the injectors and the battery is low, the pcm looses the injector trim codes. You should be able to re-input these with the Autel. It definitely sounds like a missing injector, so if it haven't sorted after a good run then check electrical connections on the injectors and check trim codes.
Check the real time data of mass air flow. On idle speed with opened EGR it should be around ~7g/s and with closed egr around ~10-12g/s. By the MAF change you can easily determine that whether the EGR is offed or not. EGR problem can cause misfire on a diesel engine and on this actual one air in fuel system also could. Try to rev up the engine several times and also keep it high rpm for a few minute.
Well I must say that this has been a good series so far. Don't pay attention to any of the negative comments, you are entertaining a lot of people and we truly appreciate your work. I recently went back to your first videos and now I am hooked to car mechanic simulator 2018. 🤣 Stay safe and stay strong in mind body and soul and I will pray for you bro. Keep up the good work. 👍🏾
Hi James good to see you back on if you want my advice I would do a bleed back on each injector to make sure you haven't got a stuck injector normally if there's air in the system Mondeo don't run and you're still does look forward to seeing your next video thanks
Hello James. The misfire is more than likely down to the work you carried out on the injectors. Air in the system(maybe) a poorly connected injector or break in the harness(wiring issue) etc. Although it’s a bit of work best put it back to ‘pre EGR/new ‘Carlos Fandango’ K and N and see if the car runs as it did before. If it does then it’s what you have added since the injector seals. If not then it’s more than likely to do with the work you did to the injectors. You need a baseline to work from. Poor running of diesels is down to a couple of basic factors ‘timing and compression’ usually. Inspect the engine around the injectors when idling. If there is any leaks around the injectors then the seals are either installed wrong or you may have forgotten to re secure the injectors in their seats properly. A poorly fitted injector will cause compression issues and poor running in a cycle set/misfire as will a working issue(not connected/poor connection/broken wire/open circuit) Also check that the injectors are connected to the harness correctly(unlikely as the harness only reaches specific cylinders) incase the firing sequence doesn’t match the engine timing. Great ‘vidjeo’ always enjoy watching..
i agree with the idea of the map sensor, it can explain a lot things,even the smoke on the tail pipe! but im thinking you have a maxicom diagnose machine, its easy for you the check up for incoherences on the live data. greatings , keep on the good work
I know exactly what that is. The Egr valve itself is stuck open slightly. I had this exact issue. Changed it and it was spot on. Didn't even try to clean it because apparently these don't like being cleaned.
they could be air in fuel lines from the injector job, need to run longer to bleed system. and mass air flow sensor is now getting more air flow essentially so needs a good run out so the computer (ecu) can auto adjust the mapping to make it run smooth. egr will kick in once engine is at optimum temp hopefully
Foam panel filters are better in these cars pipercross do a really good one , cones just suck in hot air from the engine bay, where as original box is a perfect cold air intake as standard
Hi Mr Savage has'nt your dad got the same engine and he had trouble with EGR valve ,check your MAF sensor,and Cars don't like sitting a prob at this time,when this is all over a lot of people will have trouble with their cars ,congrats on the SUBS you 've earned it ..
If I can suggest one thing, get an inline fuel filter in the engine bay (the ones with transparent sides) The fuel pump on these is notorious for chewing its own casing eventually and sending metal shards through your engine, it will ruin all your lines and injectors requiring a £3,000+ rebuild. Having an inline filter can help you spot this early, bad idle is also a telltale sign. Source; personal experience with this exact model and engine, also have a quick Google too!
Yours is a euro 4 mate , difference between 3 and 4 is vacuum and electronic actuators, egr delete would of most likely been mapped out on a remap when the delete kit was fitted , also usually with the euro 4 you’d see a 8mm hole drilled in the cooler blank plate allowing your eml not to be on .... hope it helps you solve your issue
I had same issue on a Ford Focus 2.0 TDCI, turned out to be bad injector dumpping too much fuel causing smoke and misfire. Need do a injector leak test to find out which one is bad then replace it. Good luck!
If you’re worried about emissions, put a bottle of Forte Advanced Diesel Treatment into the tank before you go for the test. It’s good stuff, has been known to turn many failures into a pass.
You mentioned that the engine was smoking more than it was with rough running and smoking, check the egr valve is closing all the way. You should be able to use your scan tool to open and close the valve while the engine is running to check and on live data see the amount it is open closed etc.
I'm sure that's a Jag EGR.. The mondeo one should have a vac hose and a breather... This might be your case as when my breather/vac hose blocked up it ran like a sack of nails
There was no small hole in the blank plate that can cause the eml light to come on its common in vag cars to have small hole as it lets the carbon out but only a small amount
I've got a 07 reg Mondeo st that I've had for 2 years now, and its been plagued with egr problems. The egr units themselves fail about 8-12 months, u can make them last longer if u clean them, but cheap ones generally die fast, I've had 3 changed. The egr cooler is also problematic, prone to leaking, and leaking coolant down the egr system and intake, giving the same symptoms as a blown head gasket, normally blowing white smoke, then underload rolling coal. If its idling and stalling when accelerating, its most likely got a leak somewhere in the egr system, where the egr valve opens underload, but because its leaking and loosing pressure, it can disturb the pressure and blow back, acting like its got no boost and often stalling when trying to boost up. The fuel system bleeds itself after a few turns, the Delphi high pressure pump pretty much bleeds itself through fast, as I've replaced the mechanical pump unit and all my injectors myself, so that aint the problem. P.s, I've searched through the amount of crap on talk ford and other sites to try and find answers cos my ST just isn't reliable, and most of the people on their don't know jack xD my personal opinion is to do what I did and blank it off from the exhaust manifold, and put the bypass back on, then do a stage 1 remap to get some extra boost and also remove the engine light for the egr codes. I've done that 2 months ago and now I don't have to worry about it again.
@The Savage Garage id say it could be boost pressure sensor too mine sounded like that was running really rough and no boost. Put that sensor on it drives brand new 👍🏼
I've had this before and it will be the EGR valve motor not adjusting correctly. Used ones are normally broken same on the Renault 1.9DCI engines they are well known for it. That's why it's smoking its the unburnt diesel etc.
Warm it up, keep on the throttle about 5% after its warm and idle then when you get a chance 3rd gear above 3.5k for 10 ish minutes. Even if its because of you had the fuel lines off. Your cooler might be blocked and your getting loads of back pressure
It’s a crazy world at the moment man, massive respect for jumping in on my premiere the other day and I hope one day I can hit the heights your hitting dude 😉👊🏻👊🏻 love a good ford man!!!
Long time watcher first time commenting. Your videos are all great James and I can't wait to find out what's happening with the fiesta also hopefully you keep the enthusiasm and stay safe. You've given me the inspiration to start my own channel plus it gives me something to do through these quarantine times.
Sounds like air in the fuel lines that explains it not starting straight away. On my diesel I need to crack off the fuel pipe unions one by one and turn it over till fuel comes out to let the air bleed.
Hey unplug the electrical connector on the edge I guarantee it runs better I’ve had a LOT of Mondeo’s run in to this problem a few times and was successful in doing what I’ve just told you hope you and family are doing well
Starting problems and smoke from exhaust? If the EGR valve you fitted was not new(?) the 1st thing I would try would be to blank off the EGR again (and did you fit the rubber gasket on the top of the valve?). Use a piece of tin cut from an old beer/coke can in the shape of the metal gaskets you fitted but without the hole in the middle... Slide out the gasket and slide the blank in its place and retest. If that cures it then the EGR valve is prob no good.
You need to get the system in closed loop , give it a good drive for an hour mixed driving.. the ecu doesn’t know if it’s coming or going atm .. great vids as always
I had same problem with mine. It ended up being a problem with ecu and to get it fixed was about £300. Aswell as the £60 check on ecu hope it gets sorted
The only blanking plate my car had was at the EGR at the top of the engine, nothing had been altered at the lower point of the engine. The blanking plate you removed at the bottom looked far too thick to be a DIY effort by the previous owner. I think you should refit the lower one. Its an exhaust recirculation valve, by removing the bottom plate you may well have stopped it from recirculating...
Greetings and salutations from across the pond! We've missed you out here in Texas! Glad to see your doing well and still uploading. Stay safe out there. Your problem might be the maf is out of sync with your iac since you changed that air box and put on the egr. Just a wild guess though. Keep uploading as often as u can! 👍🇺🇸🇬🇧
Hey from Denmark! I've got a mondeo with the same engine as yours. It has got a faulty egr (stuck open) no loss of performance, no excessive smoke, no error codes only weird idle like you have well it sounds like it I had a mechanic mate check this for me and he confirmed this. I haven't changed it yet as the problem is only at idle, but I will change it soon and see if it fixed anything ;)
Did you clean the filings out before fitting the K&N? I do think there is air in the system and you probably should have primed it before starting it. A good blast is the best thing for it now though.
If the previous owner removed the EGR, I would imagine it has to be mapped out so the computer thinks everything is as it was. Especially if when you bought it, there were no codes at all.
I think the old owner must have got it remapped or had the egr coded out of the system so the engine won't like being run with the egr, I got my lexus is220d remapped and it would do the same but just blank it off because it gives it a lot more acceleration
Hi james great vid Did u disturb the electrical connections to the injectors. Cant be air it would of cleared itself or unions nit tight enough and pulling air in??
Is it a after marker egr? I had problems with my saab replaced the egr with a cheap on and it just made the problems worse so gave the original OEM a good clean, no more problem that was 60k mile ago. Great video keep them coming
Hi mate i had similar problem on my mondeo if you unplug the egr the car egnores the maf and egr sensors and runs a preset program it worked great on mine i drove like that for a week while waiting on parts could be a quick thing to test ! Good luck
When you goes into that pipe it reminded me of mighty car mode where moog plays a radiator,intercooler like a harp !!!!😆
yerp, deffo an MCM moment
😀 !
I've played the drum brakes.
😆!!!👍
👍😆!
2 solution to the rought iddle :
1. the map sensor : to diagnose a bad map sensor : disconnect it and run the car : if the car run smother it's the map sensor. You may have broke it during swap.
2. The egr : it may be clogged up or malfunctioning and this is why the previous owner block the egr. Try to block the egr again (as original) and see if run rought.
Good vidéo from France 🇨🇵
MAP is Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor, MAF is Mass Air Flow sensor.
It's great to have you back James! Hope your safe and well in these current times. Congratulations on the 70k subs!! Many more to come
There is a foam gasket that comes with the K&N kit, that is missing.
Nice "Italian tune up" required. It'll blow all the crap out and pull the air out of the fuel lines. Great to see you working on it again, my favourite car of yours.
I’m a apprentice in a back street garage and this pipe was my first job on my own and I dropped the only me 8m bold down the bell housing so had to fish that out with a magnet took me 35 mins😂
Should of used fallopian tubing rather than standard otherwise will crack
@@hughjarse4627 Not much Fallopian tubing about now though with this virus going around.
That air filter was filthy too. You need to wash it. Sit it in a bucket with some Persil washing powder and really hot water. Just half a cup of powder. Let that soak for 30mins. Then you need to rinse it through with a hose but from the clean side (inside) to the dirty side. So you push the dirt out. Leave to dry in the airing cupboard overnight. Ideally you should spray with K&N oil on the outside. Or a very light spray all over the outside with wd40.
The TDCI re-learns each cylinder over a 15 minute period. You’ve changed the dynamics of the combustion process by adding the EGR back to the engine that the ECU has adapted to live without. You’ll need to run the engine for an hour to allow all 4 cylinders to be re-adapted then it should return to normal.
Your video certainly eased the home isolation anxiety, stay well and safe James, looking forward to your next video!!.
Your missing a foam gasket that should of been on the original that you move over to the k&n MAF sensor pipe
About to say the same 🤣
Dont put a cone on a diesel, it will sound like an air compressor. I put one on a 2.4L toyota hilux and it sounded naff
When you changed the injector seals you removed the fuel lines. Is all the air bled from the lines? Diesel is prone not to start well after being removed from the fuel. Might just need priming. Thanks for the upload :)
You don't need to prime the injectors in a common rail Diesel, only the filter if you have changed it
Modern diesels have a self purging valve on the fuel pump.
@@arnoldkul3827 Actually you have to. At first start the proper solution is revving the engine. These engines are famous for air inlet in the fuel system. :)
@@arnoldkul3827 thank you I didn't know that. I thought it was any air in the system needed to be bled.
@@nagymatyika That's not what I meant, what you said might be useful, I meant like you bleed the old tipe of Diesel engines with the Bosch injection pump, to unscrew the injector bolts and bleed the engine until only Diesel comes out and not air. The modern Common Rail engines are self bleeding. That means once the engine starts it should bleed itself out pretty quickly and the engine will run normal again, I'm not sure if it's anything specific to these Ford CRDI engines but I'm suspecting that the EGR is not working correctly and that's why the car is running like crap as he gets all those fault codes for the EGR or some bad vacuum hoses that can cause an air leak. But could be anything really with those modern Diesel engines. A proper scan tool for diagnosing is your friend in such a case.
I'd say there's a mounting plate or gasket missing from the MAF mounting for the K&N
Definitely is according to K&N themselves
www.knfilters.co.uk/57-0577-performance-air-intake-system
Retro restores I think it’ might be air in the fuel system when he taken the injectors out . In the last video
@@markellis4229 It will bleed itself, these CRDI engines are designed this way.
The filter could need changing because the car has been sat for a while and Diesel causes bacteria in the filter which causes it to block and causes it to run like crap because blocked filters Will lead to a Fuel supply issue Starving The pump
retrorestore mr Martin a savage garage fan 👌
CONGRATULATIONS ON 70K you deserve it. I love watching your videos and seeing your posts on Instagram. Great man and I hope you and your family are healthy and safe.
Could be the previous owner had the egr mapped out when they did the egr delete so now you have put an egr back on it the ECU doesn't recognise it causing it to run rough. Congrats on 70k and its great to have you back uploading!
Darren Mcinnes it wouldn’t throw up EGR codes if egr has been mapped out
@@georgemiller4585 fair enough I never thought about 🤔
Finally someone with common sense George👍🏻
You can not map the egr out on a euro 4 tdci anyhow
On the electronic Egr they can't be mapped out, at least not when I wanted to do mine they couldn't.
Love your video's James, hope you regain your enthusiasm for making them. Hope you and your family stay safe and come out the other end of the tragedy unscathed
It's good to see another of your videos, James. I know K&N filters have a good reputation, but they aren't the best filter media, and if oiled too heavily, the oil can be drawn onto the MAF, causing problems.
The ECU needs to re-learn after fitting EGR. Best way is to remove battery for an hour, re connect, drive normally through all gears and varying speeds.
Al Ferret it’s been mapped out probably.
Give it a blast mate it's got air in the system
Two possible reasons which I can see,
If the egr valve is stuck open it will allow unmetered air in.. causing this. Usually not a problem if they're stuck closed.
Or air lock in the injector pipes , guessing you removed them to fit the seals.. they're usually self bleeding but you could crack them a bit of a turn at the injector and see if fuel comes out when it's running. Be careful though with high pressure fuel and use a rag if you do do it!
Deffo air in fuel. Needs a good rev up to 2500rpm for 2 minutes.
You can rule out MAF issues by just unplugging it :)
I am fairly new to diesels and i recently changed injector seals on a 1.3multijet, it does sound like air in your system, bleed it out by whatever method is right for that engine and i reckon it will be spot on afterwards.
Great to see the Savage Garage back, best wishes.
Sounds like the drive belt is on its way mate and crank pulley 😊. Just unslacken the union if there's any air in the fuel the ones on top of the injectors 1 at a time then tighten back up.
Hi James, hope you are well. I've had it in the past where when you disconnect the injectors and the battery is low, the pcm looses the injector trim codes. You should be able to re-input these with the Autel.
It definitely sounds like a missing injector, so if it haven't sorted after a good run then check electrical connections on the injectors and check trim codes.
Throwback! Keeping The Savage Garage alive! We love in hope for some fresh uploads 🙌🙌
Check the real time data of mass air flow. On idle speed with opened EGR it should be around ~7g/s and with closed egr around ~10-12g/s. By the MAF change you can easily determine that whether the EGR is offed or not.
EGR problem can cause misfire on a diesel engine and on this actual one air in fuel system also could. Try to rev up the engine several times and also keep it high rpm for a few minute.
Well I must say that this has been a good series so far. Don't pay attention to any of the negative comments, you are entertaining a lot of people and we truly appreciate your work. I recently went back to your first videos and now I am hooked to car mechanic simulator 2018. 🤣
Stay safe and stay strong in mind body and soul and I will pray for you bro. Keep up the good work. 👍🏾
Hi James good to see you back on if you want my advice I would do a bleed back on each injector to make sure you haven't got a stuck injector normally if there's air in the system Mondeo don't run and you're still does look forward to seeing your next video thanks
Hello James. The misfire is more than likely down to the work you carried out on the injectors. Air in the system(maybe) a poorly connected injector or break in the harness(wiring issue) etc. Although it’s a bit of work best put it back to ‘pre EGR/new ‘Carlos Fandango’ K and N and see if the car runs as it did before. If it does then it’s what you have added since the injector seals. If not then it’s more than likely to do with the work you did to the injectors. You need a baseline to work from. Poor running of diesels is down to a couple of basic factors ‘timing and compression’ usually. Inspect the engine around the injectors when idling. If there is any leaks around the injectors then the seals are either installed wrong or you may have forgotten to re secure the injectors in their seats properly. A poorly fitted injector will cause compression issues and poor running in a cycle set/misfire as will a working issue(not connected/poor connection/broken wire/open circuit) Also check that the injectors are connected to the harness correctly(unlikely as the harness only reaches specific cylinders) incase the firing sequence doesn’t match the engine timing. Great ‘vidjeo’ always enjoy watching..
i agree with the idea of the map sensor, it can explain a lot things,even the smoke on the tail pipe!
but im thinking you have a maxicom diagnose machine, its easy for you the check up for
incoherences on the live data.
greatings , keep on the good work
Air in the fuel lines from when you changed the injector oil seals
I know exactly what that is. The Egr valve itself is stuck open slightly. I had this exact issue. Changed it and it was spot on. Didn't even try to clean it because apparently these don't like being cleaned.
they could be air in fuel lines from the injector job, need to run longer to bleed system. and mass air flow sensor is now getting more air flow essentially so needs a good run out so the computer (ecu) can auto adjust the mapping to make it run smooth. egr will kick in once engine is at optimum temp hopefully
That plastic looking mesh is called megamide. I use to use it when I made car vehicle harness back in my 20s.
Foam panel filters are better in these cars pipercross do a really good one , cones just suck in hot air from the engine bay, where as original box is a perfect cold air intake as standard
Tiger grip gloves 👍 much better than the black nitrile ones, last a lot longer! Excellent video fellow Norfolkite 😉
Hi Mr Savage has'nt your dad got the same engine and he had trouble with EGR valve ,check your MAF sensor,and Cars don't like sitting a prob at this time,when this is all over a lot of people will have trouble with their cars ,congrats on the SUBS you 've earned it ..
If I can suggest one thing, get an inline fuel filter in the engine bay (the ones with transparent sides)
The fuel pump on these is notorious for chewing its own casing eventually and sending metal shards through your engine, it will ruin all your lines and injectors requiring a £3,000+ rebuild.
Having an inline filter can help you spot this early, bad idle is also a telltale sign.
Source; personal experience with this exact model and engine, also have a quick Google too!
Yours is a euro 4 mate , difference between 3 and 4 is vacuum and electronic actuators, egr delete would of most likely been mapped out on a remap when the delete kit was fitted , also usually with the euro 4 you’d see a 8mm hole drilled in the cooler blank plate allowing your eml not to be on .... hope it helps you solve your issue
Also that air filter is of the v6 not a diesel
Not ture at all
Thanks for your vids bud. It is a funny old time at the minute but I've managed to fill some time enjoying your vids. Keep it up fella 🤘
I had same issue on a Ford Focus 2.0 TDCI, turned out to be bad injector dumpping too much fuel causing smoke and misfire. Need do a injector leak test to find out which one is bad then replace it.
Good luck!
ST220 is a proper performance machine and with an air intake kit even more fun
If you’re worried about emissions, put a bottle of Forte Advanced Diesel Treatment into the tank before you go for the test. It’s good stuff, has been known to turn many failures into a pass.
Good to have you uploading again bro! Love the yum cars merch 👌🏼 looks insane 🔥 keep up the vids to keep us all sane during this lockdown!
You mentioned that the engine was smoking more than it was with rough running and smoking, check the egr valve is closing all the way. You should be able to use your scan tool to open and close the valve while the engine is running to check and on live data see the amount it is open closed etc.
I'm sure that's a Jag EGR.. The mondeo one should have a vac hose and a breather... This might be your case as when my breather/vac hose blocked up it ran like a sack of nails
Blank the EGR again as the car is stage 1 remapped and in the map it probably says EGR off thats why running bad
Jarrus Killa he wouldn’t get an eml light on like he said if it was mapped out
There was no small hole in the blank plate that can cause the eml light to come on its common in vag cars to have small hole as it lets the carbon out but only a small amount
@@symonwallace1956 ford isn't VAG tho. also, the hole is only required for some 1.9 engines, not all.
Cant delete the egr in the map on these
I've got a 07 reg Mondeo st that I've had for 2 years now, and its been plagued with egr problems. The egr units themselves fail about 8-12 months, u can make them last longer if u clean them, but cheap ones generally die fast, I've had 3 changed. The egr cooler is also problematic, prone to leaking, and leaking coolant down the egr system and intake, giving the same symptoms as a blown head gasket, normally blowing white smoke, then underload rolling coal. If its idling and stalling when accelerating, its most likely got a leak somewhere in the egr system, where the egr valve opens underload, but because its leaking and loosing pressure, it can disturb the pressure and blow back, acting like its got no boost and often stalling when trying to boost up. The fuel system bleeds itself after a few turns, the Delphi high pressure pump pretty much bleeds itself through fast, as I've replaced the mechanical pump unit and all my injectors myself, so that aint the problem.
P.s, I've searched through the amount of crap on talk ford and other sites to try and find answers cos my ST just isn't reliable, and most of the people on their don't know jack xD my personal opinion is to do what I did and blank it off from the exhaust manifold, and put the bypass back on, then do a stage 1 remap to get some extra boost and also remove the engine light for the egr codes. I've done that 2 months ago and now I don't have to worry about it again.
@The Savage Garage id say it could be boost pressure sensor too mine sounded like that was running really rough and no boost. Put that sensor on it drives brand new 👍🏼
That was a much needed video a break from all the bad news that’s going on great job 👍🏼👍🏼🤩
Did you prime the fuel system before you started it after the injector seals? Cant remember if you started it after you done them.
I've had this before and it will be the EGR valve motor not adjusting correctly. Used ones are normally broken same on the Renault 1.9DCI engines they are well known for it. That's why it's smoking its the unburnt diesel etc.
Warm it up, keep on the throttle about 5% after its warm and idle then when you get a chance 3rd gear above 3.5k for 10 ish minutes. Even if its because of you had the fuel lines off. Your cooler might be blocked and your getting loads of back pressure
I think it's the gap in the airflow sensor and the air in the diesel lines.
It’s a crazy world at the moment man, massive respect for jumping in on my premiere the other day and I hope one day I can hit the heights your hitting dude 😉👊🏻👊🏻 love a good ford man!!!
Long time watcher first time commenting. Your videos are all great James and I can't wait to find out what's happening with the fiesta also hopefully you keep the enthusiasm and stay safe. You've given me the inspiration to start my own channel plus it gives me something to do through these quarantine times.
when you delete the egr it is also turned of in the computer, you need to turn it on by software when you instal the egr valve back on
Sounds like air in the fuel lines that explains it not starting straight away. On my diesel I need to crack off the fuel pipe unions one by one and turn it over till fuel comes out to let the air bleed.
Is that wise to do with the high pressure fuel lines?
Hi, check the injection system. The cost of repair is large. And it's not worth packing money if it breaks down soon.
Can you do that trumpet trick again funniest thing I've seen TH-cam lately 🤣👌
Arty out an injector leak off test, sounds to me like a bad injector, also check the connectors at the injectors
Needs a good run out to rid the air build-up from when you did the injector seals.
Hey unplug the electrical connector on the edge I guarantee it runs better I’ve had a LOT of Mondeo’s run in to this problem a few times and was successful in doing what I’ve just told you hope you and family are doing well
I reckon the EGR has been mapped out when it was blanked off.
Starting problems and smoke from exhaust? If the EGR valve you fitted was not new(?) the 1st thing I would try would be to blank off the EGR again (and did you fit the rubber gasket on the top of the valve?). Use a piece of tin cut from an old beer/coke can in the shape of the metal gaskets you fitted but without the hole in the middle... Slide out the gasket and slide the blank in its place and retest. If that cures it then the EGR valve is prob no good.
40 quid for the k&n. Good deal compared to new. I got mine for £28 second hand when the weren't as popular.
You need to get the system in closed loop , give it a good drive for an hour mixed driving.. the ecu doesn’t know if it’s coming or going atm .. great vids as always
The oil on the k a n filter will get on your mass airflow sensor and brake it stick with stock Airbox
Looks to have had a replacement gearbox aswell also the egr will be mapped out so you need to get it mapped again to re commission it
Glad to see you back great video looking forward to the next 1 during these weird times stay safe 👍🍺🍺
I had same problem with mine. It ended up being a problem with ecu and to get it fixed was about £300. Aswell as the £60 check on ecu hope it gets sorted
I have the same car but with a egr delete and passed an mot just need to give it a good run beforehand passed with flying colours
The only blanking plate my car had was at the EGR at the top of the engine, nothing had been altered at the lower point of the engine.
The blanking plate you removed at the bottom looked far too thick to be a DIY effort by the previous owner.
I think you should refit the lower one. Its an exhaust recirculation valve, by removing the bottom plate you may well have stopped it from recirculating...
Greetings and salutations from across the pond! We've missed you out here in Texas! Glad to see your doing well and still uploading. Stay safe out there. Your problem might be the maf is out of sync with your iac since you changed that air box and put on the egr. Just a wild guess though. Keep uploading as often as u can! 👍🇺🇸🇬🇧
You should be able to test operate the egr valve using your autel as it has bidirectional control
My diesel Astra had issues similar to this, I was told to run the car in 3rd gear at 50-70 mph for 15 minutes. Worked perfectly afterwards.
Has your car been remapped with a egr delete ? That will be your issue if so
It is crazy times I know ,I think the only thing wrong with the Mondeo is ,it needs some love 😊
Hey from Denmark! I've got a mondeo with the same engine as yours.
It has got a faulty egr (stuck open) no loss of performance, no excessive smoke, no error codes only weird idle like you have well it sounds like it
I had a mechanic mate check this for me and he confirmed this. I haven't changed it yet as the problem is only at idle, but I will change it soon and see if it fixed anything ;)
Did you clean the filings out before fitting the K&N? I do think there is air in the system and you probably should have primed it before starting it. A good blast is the best thing for it now though.
Good to see you back James. Stay safe
Love the video James, so glad you uploaded😀😀
If the previous owner removed the EGR, I would imagine it has to be mapped out so the computer thinks everything is as it was. Especially if when you bought it, there were no codes at all.
Could I ask why you put the EGR back on? They tend to be removed to save the engine on the life span.
I know quite a few people myself icluded who would play a pretty penny for those gloves right now, haha
I love your mechanical videos
I think the old owner must have got it remapped or had the egr coded out of the system so the engine won't like being run with the egr, I got my lexus is220d remapped and it would do the same but just blank it off because it gives it a lot more acceleration
Hi james great vid
Did u disturb the electrical connections to the injectors.
Cant be air it would of cleared itself or unions nit tight enough and pulling air in??
Hello from Scotland, new to your channel! Great videos man!! The interior of this reminds me of the Puma a little :D
@Savage garage Hi James nice to see you back hope you are ok on lock down 👍
Is it a after marker egr? I had problems with my saab replaced the egr with a cheap on and it just made the problems worse so gave the original OEM a good clean, no more problem that was 60k mile ago. Great video keep them coming
Is the car remapped? If the car has a map, with a egr delete programmed into it and you've put on back on, that might make it run bad
Good to see your back at it James 👍
Congrats on the 70k subs, stay safe James look after yourself mate
Re fit the egr blanking plates see if it improves bet that second hand egr valve is nackerd
Hi...
Tks for the vídeos!
Can you put the link for air filter?
I have a 2.0 130 hp
Regards from Portugal!
You have had the injectors out to change the seals. There will be a bit of air in the system, you will need to bleed the injectors.
Hi mate i had similar problem on my mondeo if you unplug the egr the car egnores the maf and egr sensors and runs a preset program it worked great on mine i drove like that for a week while waiting on parts could be a quick thing to test ! Good luck