CORRECTION. The bolts supplied with the Front Runner Universal rails are in fact 010.9 high tensile bolts, and not mild steel as I said. They are in fact superior in strength to the stainless bolts I replaced them with. Thank for a TH-cam commenter that pointed this out to me. I should have checked before fitting.
I enjoy watching an experienced builder build 4x4s especially Andrew as he goes into every detail and Paul Marsh of course. They are wisemen and we have a lot to learn from them
I don’t care what anyone says, I will watch and watch and watch and rewatch all your 70series builds again and again, I love what you do with them, I love how there is always something new that you do and that you can do with these vehicle’s, for those telling you it gets old, don’t listen to them, it’s a phenomenal vehicle, and to them I say keep the troop videos coming. #wewantmore!
I found this video particularly interesting for a few reasons. 1. Most of us without massive budgets constantly run into some sort of compatibility issues with equipment where it does not fit or work as described and either has to be modified or returned after attempting to fit it. Paint it, find it does not fit supplier then refuses to take it back etc. 2. The best solutions such as axle correction etc are often way outside the ordinary owner so a simpler cheaper pragmatic less than ideal solutions must often be found. 3. Front Runner and other Mfrs are excruciatingly expensive, I simply could not justify the cost of their Gullwings etc,Tried Explore Glazing which appeared to be a great alternative but still very expensive for what it is. 4. It’s nice to see all this fancy beautiful stuff but it’s getting a bit like Old vs New Top Gear now showing us all the stuff they know we can never afford to buy. I’m not cheap or poor but realistic in that I cannot afford to spend this amount of money on equipment and modifications AND afford to do the trips I want to do.
Not many viewers CAN afford Andrews builds which is exactly why we like to watch his content. Then again, you don't need all that gear to travel to the same places as he does. You just need a well serviced 4WD with the basics.
Ever heard of the magazine 'ROB REPORT'? On the other hand, ever heard of a magazine, 'NOTHING TO DREAM ABOUT HERE'? These experiments, like wheel track and water tanks are basic and inexpensive! And yet you are still complaining.
@@PeterMenzies-t4r To be honest. Most overlanders will not be able to spend this kind of money. Still great to see it in action on a channel like Andrews. And you got to remember that 1) He gets a bunch of these products for free. 2) He makes money building these vehicles. So its not just spending money on a hobby, but investing in a business. Thats a big difference to a regular Joe kitting out a vehicle for a weekend trip.
Hi Andrew, Great video, just curious why you didn’t go the multi track correction system on this build but you did on your previous troop build. As I am receiving my 79 series single cab in oct I would like to know your reasoning. Please keep these videos coming they are great. Cheers
Just remember not all stainless bolts are equal. Stay away from 304 grade (A2-70). When done too tight very prone to stress corrosion cracking. Go for 316 (A4-70) as minimum.
Definitively wouldn't use stainless bolt for anything that bears forces (or weight...), they break. A good steel bolt, properly coated, will do fine for a very long time as long as it's not a boat in sea water.
@@Fe_lix also, you can visually see when a steel bolt is starting to corrode as a warning. You get zero warning when a stainless bolt is starting to crack until it suddenly lets go. Also, when drilling stainless screws into a galvanized steel sheet metal, the stainless will be cathodic relative to the steel so when wet you may slightly corrode the hole larger.
I am still thoroughly enjoying these build videos. I used your videos previously as the basis for my troopy build. I like that you are always trying out different ideas and coming up with alternate solutions. Not everything is perfect and not everything will suit other people but overall I find your content to set the standard for troopy fitouts and product testing.
On yellow lights, when we did our big lap in 2000 I bought a 12v fluoro inspection light and wrapped yellow cellophane around it, it took 3 layers to not attract insects. Then put a shellite light 3m away ad a decoy. Worked a treat
RotaPax is EXPENSIVE, but they do have water/food-grade jugs that work with their system, and will most likely hold up FAR longer than those AliExpress specials. I have had one of their 2-gallon fuel pax on the back of my Jeep for 3 years (I keep it full all the time, and cycle it through the fuel tank every 3-4 fill-ups to make sure the fuel is not stale. I like knowing I have the extra fuel in the off chance that I need it.
Those side mounting rails is the feature that I really like from the Ineos Grenadier. It suits vehicles like it and the 70 series well. But most of all the Troopy with is long sides.
Great video - fyi we have fitted a LRA 90L water tank under our 2.8L facelift troop carrier. Some of the cross members have changed in the 2.8 however the tank can still fit. The exhaust will need re-routing which wasn't a big deal.
The reason they do not supply SS hardware is because of electrolysis due to dissimilar metals.I have a Front Runner roof rack on my Tacoma . I changed all of the bolts to SS ,the problem is I had a problem with electrolysis due to dissimilar metals which causes corrosion . You have to use TeF Gel os one other type of anti corrosion paste on the fittings to prevent this .
The rails are aluminium. The bolts they supply are mild steel. Body is mild steel. Their bolts will rust and spread the rust to the body. Stainless wont do that.
I am stuck at home at the moment due to knee surgery , but I have been going out and trying different things for my Holden Rodeo . I have just come back in after solving where I will keep my water jerry cans, and next thing I see you mounting some on the side of your vehicle . I like the concept but the problem I see happening is brush rubbing against them and possibility tearing a hole in them . Thanks again ,your videos have saved me these last five weeks (with at least another three to go) keep them coming . Cheers Pete .
Dear Andrew, dear readers, first of all: I love following you from project to project. Even if your choices seem awkward at times from the start..so my question would be: is it more important to safely secure a load or is it more important to eliminate at all costs rusty steel bolt heads? In a long run and especially on a flexing side panel of a 78 body I would avoid stainless bolts as for the brittleness of the stainless steel which is very hard hence not great at flexing or resisting rattles. Once you drill out holes in a steel body of any vehicle it is wise (and obvious) to comprehensively paint and rustproof the exposed edges of bare steel..so when inserting new steel bolts you can use spray galvanizing paint on the bolt and screw it tight, eliminating future rusting of the connection hole-to-bolt by a lot. Alternatively one can use polymer sealer as a contact barrier: water and airtight the steel won't rust. After many years of use it is in any case safe to say that one should check if the bolts are still in good condition and possibly replace them. Simple really, and that way rust should not be an issue. It is like preventative maintenance with all things mechanical. As for water tanks I would always and only choose food grade plastic and preferably a type where I can see the remaining level of water inside. Out in the bush it is important to be able to check your vital supplies such as water in a glance. Being cost effective and aiming at good solutions for little money (which I am always in favor of) I suggest building your own underfloor polyethylene tank. Simple soldering techniques using a hot air gun.."built not bought" is my suggestion for an approach to building our own vehicles.Make them your own. An idea, Andrew, you can surely agree to? best regards, Martin
Thanks Andrew. idk that I would trust those rails to hold that much weight tbh? It's just a handful of screws held up by the bodywork. Water is very heavy. Cheers.
water is 1L = 1 Kg. Tank, water, table, Maxtrax = +- 26kgs. On two rails with 10x8mm bolts and large washers inside. I think it is enough, but like everything about this, I shall see if I see signs of stress. I will keep a good look out for it and report back.
Hi Andrew. As someone who also shares a love for the 78 I will not become tired of these build series and throughly do appreciate the experiments and insights from someone of your knowledge/experience. I am currently building a new 2024 model myself and am interested to know why you have not considered a coil conversion on one of your previous builds, and if you did consider it, why not? Thank you!
Hi Andrew, looking forward as every time to the new Troopy build. Unfortunately most of the stuff you fit to your fantastic builds is not available here in Europe, but anyway it is so inspiring. Thanks! Would you share how to buildt your self-made gullwing box?
Thanks for the great info. We have a troopy just like your one and are in need of sourcing accessories, so I'm very keenly watching all your videos. You have great ideas and I like how you do your own thing, for you 👍
FYI. Those plastic fuel tanks are also used on motorbikes where according to the adverts 5 litres versions can be laid flat and still remain "vapour proof". They also have that type of central locking system. Love you videos, just wish I had the balls and the wherewithal to go off-roading into the wild like you, the older I get the less I like big crowds or groups.
Speaking of fender flares, you should contact Arctic Trucks in South Africa and make a collaboration video with them, get some 38" balloon tires on that LC
The already put max trax tables on sides of Troopys and they have proven to hold up if installed correctly and use the correct fixings Also spreading the load as he is doing significantly changes how much weight it can hold.
I wouldn’t like the idea 50kg on the outboard and a fair way up the vehicle. Should be underneath or inside closer the centerline- for vehicle dynamic handling, but at least better than on rooftop
Andrew- I know you are a big proponent of skinny tires (in fact, you taught me their benefits over wide tires- thank you!) so why do you say the factory tires do not perform well? I believe they are a 225/95R16 which is not far from 235/85/R16, which is a tire size I know you like/ have used before. Is there not a lot tire options in that size? Looking to continue to learn from you, thanks! Love watching this build!
The 225/95R16 is 834 mm (32.8 in) design diameter versus 806 mm (31.7 in) design diameter for the 235/85R16, which is the same diameter as the old 7.50R16 size. The latter is a very common size used on the Land Rover Defender and the Santana PS-10 among others, but the gearing and speedometer accuracy will be out if you use it on a Land Cruiser 70 Series originally fitted with 225/95R16 tyres; those originally fitted with 7.50R16 will be fine.
Agree about Front Runner, just that extra mile to finish product off, just does not happen. They have lots of excellent accessories….but you know you will have to diy much of the installation.
I'm a bit confused, a few years ago when the new bfg mt came out you said you hated wide tires, now you're back to 285 75 16. what about nothing performs like a troopy on skinnys? I have 265 75 16 MT on my HZJ76 with no flares, now im going back to 235 85 16 on the 6 inch wheels
Thank you for a great channel - so interesting watching your builds come together. What are you thoughts of Maxtrax against products like Grip 'n Go (foldable sand tracks)?
This is easy . . . MaxTrax is not just useful as a recovery tool. Grip 'n Go can do nothing else and are awkward to use. The design of the leading edges shows the designers didn't understand why MaxTrax is so good at recovery. One can't even use it them to remove sand around tyre before placing them. MaxTraxs actually pulls the rotating tyre underneath it!
In terms of additional load for the wheel bearing, spacers and larger offset have the same result. But with (decently fitted!) spacers you'd be more flexible when in comes to spare and tyre swap. Why the other offset then?
Some thoughts, if I may. Using stainless steel bolts for fastening the load rails intruduces the risk of electrolytic corrosion, especially when one uses them as the only means for attaching the rails: the thread of the bolt will constantly rub against the drilled hole in the car body. Personally, I've used a layer of barium chromate to insulate the hole rim, and then put a nylon washer inside the hole completely insulating the nut from the car body (more details if you want them). Secondly, so few nuts for so much weight just might not be sufficient. You could use heavy duty glue in addition to bolts. It would of course mean that the rails would be a permanent part of the car body, but their carrying capacity would be improved by a lot. Added benefit of this solution would be that car body resonation will vanish (I kmow from experience).
Galvanic corrosion happens when the fastener is the sacrificial one. If the body was stainless steel @4xoverland would have a problem with a steel or aluminium fastener. The stainless steel fastener is less of an issue.
I wonder if there is a support structure behind the skin where the middle of the track would be? The hole locations being off center would drive me batty.
2 questions regarding the new wider (and taller) wheels: Did you need to lift your suspension first before fitting these? And do the new tyres rub on the wheel arches like I have seen on some other videos for the 2024 LC? Cheers and love the channel.
wheels are not a larger diameter. these and OE tyres are 33". And the chassis is exactly the same as the previous model 70 series when it comes to suspension.
It's ok, it's not detrimental to Cooper Tyres, they are excellent. It will be due to an advertising, sponsorship or some other similar disagreement. If it was due to real life testing of failure, he would state it.
If I ask for a product to be swapped for media exposure, I must know I want it. And be fairly confident that it will do the job. Cooper has very mixed reviews in Australia. I try and go with what I know. I tried to find TORO 255/85R16 tyres, but decided after I could not find a set anywhere, that I do not want M/Ts again. They are just not what I want to drive on any more. And as far as A/Ts go, the Falkens are pretty good. Maybe one of the best. I tried to explain myself in this video.
@@4xoverland yes, they are designed for fuel but aren't allowed to be used in Australia to carry fuel as they don't comply with Australian Standards.
Just curious on thoughts regarding offset rims for insurance purposes? I've owned a 2017 76 series since new, running 0' on the front and -22' on the rear ( spare 0') as I was under the impression legally anything greater than +25 or -25 would not be insured. Any thoughts /advice Andrew or other followers?
I thought insects avoided fire on instinct because an open flame will kill them instantly. FfzzZZT… Here in Central America my family light up candles if there are insects around the lunch or dinner table. The insects will not go near the open flame no matter the time of day, no matter the food on the table. FfzzZZT works. 😁
Wheel bearings … According to trustworthy sources the SKF grease called SKF Bearing Grease LGMT 2/5 is one of the best if not the best bearing grease money can buy.
so Toyota design a car with a 6 cilinder with the same axle width. Toyota puts a V8 in and make the front wider but not the rear. Toyota put in 4 cilinder and keeps the front wide 😅 So the customer has to find the solution 😢 come on Toyota this is not needed to do it like this...
hi Andrew. do you think that the truck panel can take 20Kg (two 10L) water tanks bolted to the side on corrugations? I have Rotopax food grade water tank which I bolted to a cage inside.
Quick question, putting a negative 48 mm will fix the rear track , how will your wheel bearings go with such an aggressive offset. 🤔 I've been told 12mm negative is the most, due to bearing load.. Something to think about .
@@4xoverland No 4wd I know of comes with negative offset factory wheels. Commonly they have positive offset where the wheel centreline is over the bearings - a good thing. Your 47 degree negative offset puts the wheel centreline a long way outside the bearings, which is why they need more frequent maintenance.
@@4xoverland And with that much offset it is becoming common to see cracks around the wide edge of the alloy rims. Also the negative offset can cause cracked diff housings on heavy 70series - usually at the U-bolts. Both are worth including on pre and post trip inspections.
I would not waste a Troopy but sell it and buy a double cab. Double cabs are cheaper and far more common. Troopy is uncommon and difficult to find so demands a far higher price.
no. Ive never owned a vehicle with that, and cannot retro-fit it to this, as far as I know. I deal with the wheel travel with lockers, front and back. Not as good I know. But Troopy is very good off road. Not the best, but certainly good enough. Best in my book is Jeep Rubicon and Mercedes G.
Andrew I’m sure ya not allowed to have anything that will catch a human when ya sideswipe them stuck down the sides of any car as well as something that will slice chunks off as well . Unless it’s collapsible like side mirrors or it can smash off with ease.But correct me if I’m wrong or ADR rules have changed I’d like ya feedback on your attachments
I never asked Cooper for tyres, so I don't know if they would donate. I only ask for a product if I already know I want the product. And I don't want them because I know of too many who have had bad experiences in Aus with Cooper. But did look to buy (not sponsor) another tyre I really liked. But seems, not available in Australia any more. Also a different size to these. But no solution exists: an all-terrain 255/85R16.
See my comment on this above. This is the ADR on making the wheel track wider: "The allowable wheel track increase of all off-road four wheel drive vehicles and goods vehicles (ADR category MC, NA, NB) has now been increased to no more than 50mm beyond the maximum specified by the vehicle manufacturer for the particular model.1 Nov 2015." But realistically, what are your chances of getting caught? Practiaclly zero, unless you have a prang maybe.
@@4xoverland It doesn't seem to be a big problem. I had 50mm Neg offset per wheel on my Troopy for years and no noticable effects, and it was right on GVM. For my current build (an LC79) I am going neg 25mm on Kings 1600Kg rims, so I can stay legal (I didn't know about the ADR 50mm track limit when I built my Troopy). So I don't think you'll have any significant bearing issues.
I really dislike the FrontRunner product. I always feel like they cheated me out of my money. In theory its great stuff. Expensive, but great. But then it arrives and this feeling starts. Once mounted I feel like they ripped me off, and I regret not getting my equipment from a different company
As a coincidence i was working on a design for a “max track table” to be incorporated on the side of my dual cab. The gull wing canopy doors to my tub are just too high to be a practical kitchen base and drop down tables are still pretty limited. From a camping perspective your design looks good. But we are dealing with a vehicle that drives down normal roads not a static dwelling and I think Ive come to the conclusion that such modifications do not comply with Vehicle Modification Standards. Im not willing to bet my insurance coverage on such a modification. Now im a lawyer not an engineer or certifier so my interpretation of the ADRs and VSB14 looks at the arguments an officious beauracrat or police officer wishing to prove a point and put me off the road. In VSB14 under the provisions relating to modification of vehicles for camping etc there is a general catchall provision. General Safety Requihrements -about page 65 - that states: “The vehicle must not be modified or fitted with any object, fitting or appliance that is likely to cause the risk of bodily injury to any person.” I think that there may be additional State road rules that also criminalise bolt on features on the side of a vehicle. While a spade on a roof rack is probably acceptable, the same spade at fender level makes a perfect pedestrian slicer. The well designed maxtrax pins for storing these recovery boards are a risk anywhere below head height, although you may be able to argue that providing they do not exceed the overall width of the vehicle that they don’t increase the risk to pedestrians. Not sure about your water/ fuel containers with their brackets - maybe they pass but id want signoff from your insurer to be safe. The maxtrax table even without the pins is a pedestrian julienne appliance. While i like the design and camping function you have presented I think it is problematic. www.infrastructure.gov.au/sites/default/files/migrated/vehicles/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/files/NCOP6_Section_LH_Body_and_Chassis_01Jan2011_v3.pdf
FYI. These Troopys with the tables attached successfully complete and pass pit tests. All over Australia. There aren hundreds of them driving throughout Australia without issues.
I always watched your videos, but this is the last, cannot watch so called builds where only free gear is fitted, it has become an advertising series now, time to move on,
CORRECTION. The bolts supplied with the Front Runner Universal rails are in fact 010.9 high tensile bolts, and not mild steel as I said. They are in fact superior in strength to the stainless bolts I replaced them with. Thank for a TH-cam commenter that pointed this out to me. I should have checked before fitting.
I enjoy watching an experienced builder build 4x4s especially Andrew as he goes into every detail and Paul Marsh of course. They are wisemen and we have a lot to learn from them
I don’t care what anyone says, I will watch and watch and watch and rewatch all your 70series builds again and again, I love what you do with them, I love how there is always something new that you do and that you can do with these vehicle’s, for those telling you it gets old, don’t listen to them, it’s a phenomenal vehicle, and to them I say keep the troop videos coming. #wewantmore!
@@Manny_G_10 agree, Andrew is certainly a good 4x4 builder
I found this video particularly interesting for a few reasons.
1. Most of us without massive budgets constantly run into some sort of compatibility issues with equipment where it does not fit or work as described and either has to be modified or returned after attempting to fit it. Paint it, find it does not fit supplier then refuses to take it back etc.
2. The best solutions such as axle correction etc are often way outside the ordinary owner so a simpler cheaper pragmatic less than ideal solutions must often be found.
3. Front Runner and other Mfrs are excruciatingly expensive, I simply could not justify the cost of their Gullwings etc,Tried Explore Glazing which appeared to be a great alternative but still very expensive for what it is.
4. It’s nice to see all this fancy beautiful stuff but it’s getting a bit like Old vs New Top Gear now showing us all the stuff they know we can never afford to buy.
I’m not cheap or poor but realistic in that I cannot afford to spend this amount of money on equipment and modifications AND afford to do the trips I want to do.
Love the build series but simply can't afford what Andrew does to his trooping and suspect many views can't.
No harm in dreaming though
Not many viewers CAN afford Andrews builds which is exactly why we like to watch his content. Then again, you don't need all that gear to travel to the same places as he does. You just need a well serviced 4WD with the basics.
Ever heard of the magazine 'ROB REPORT'? On the other hand, ever heard of a magazine, 'NOTHING TO DREAM ABOUT HERE'? These experiments, like wheel track and water tanks are basic and inexpensive! And yet you are still complaining.
@@PeterMenzies-t4r To be honest. Most overlanders will not be able to spend this kind of money. Still great to see it in action on a channel like Andrews. And you got to remember that
1) He gets a bunch of these products for free.
2) He makes money building these vehicles. So its not just spending money on a hobby, but investing in a business. Thats a big difference to a regular Joe kitting out a vehicle for a weekend trip.
Hi Andrew,
Great video, just curious why you didn’t go the multi track correction system on this build but you did on your previous troop build. As I am receiving my 79 series single cab in oct I would like to know your reasoning.
Please keep these videos coming they are great. Cheers
Just remember not all stainless bolts are equal. Stay away from 304 grade (A2-70). When done too tight very prone to stress corrosion cracking. Go for 316 (A4-70) as minimum.
Definitively wouldn't use stainless bolt for anything that bears forces (or weight...), they break.
A good steel bolt, properly coated, will do fine for a very long time as long as it's not a boat in sea water.
@@Fe_lix also, you can visually see when a steel bolt is starting to corrode as a warning. You get zero warning when a stainless bolt is starting to crack until it suddenly lets go. Also, when drilling stainless screws into a galvanized steel sheet metal, the stainless will be cathodic relative to the steel so when wet you may slightly corrode the hole larger.
I am still thoroughly enjoying these build videos. I used your videos previously as the basis for my troopy build. I like that you are always trying out different ideas and coming up with alternate solutions. Not everything is perfect and not everything will suit other people but overall I find your content to set the standard for troopy fitouts and product testing.
On yellow lights, when we did our big lap in 2000 I bought a 12v fluoro inspection light and wrapped yellow cellophane around it, it took 3 layers to not attract insects. Then put a shellite light 3m away ad a decoy. Worked a treat
we realy like this kind of video , thank's a lot from France !
Man those are great looking. Wish the US had something similar to this for the 80.
RotaPax is EXPENSIVE, but they do have water/food-grade jugs that work with their system, and will most likely hold up FAR longer than those AliExpress specials. I have had one of their 2-gallon fuel pax on the back of my Jeep for 3 years (I keep it full all the time, and cycle it through the fuel tank every 3-4 fill-ups to make sure the fuel is not stale. I like knowing I have the extra fuel in the off chance that I need it.
Those side mounting rails is the feature that I really like from the Ineos Grenadier. It suits vehicles like it and the 70 series well. But most of all the Troopy with is long sides.
I really love watching you build your vehicles. Fascinating stuff!
Great video - fyi we have fitted a LRA 90L water tank under our 2.8L facelift troop carrier. Some of the cross members have changed in the 2.8 however the tank can still fit. The exhaust will need re-routing which wasn't a big deal.
The reason they do not supply SS hardware is because of electrolysis due to dissimilar metals.I have a Front Runner roof rack on my Tacoma . I changed all of the bolts to SS ,the problem is I had a problem with electrolysis due to dissimilar metals which causes corrosion . You have to use TeF Gel os one other type of anti corrosion paste on the fittings to prevent this .
The rails are aluminium. The bolts they supply are mild steel. Body is mild steel. Their bolts will rust and spread the rust to the body. Stainless wont do that.
Love your build videos, Andrew. Thank you for sharing!
The door cards are gorgeous. Positively gorgeous.
You are a gem Andrew. Keep up the brilliant work. You are doing excellent job. I love your work.
I am stuck at home at the moment due to knee surgery , but I have been going out and trying different things for my Holden Rodeo . I have just come back in after solving where I will keep my water jerry cans, and next thing I see you mounting some on the side of your vehicle . I like the concept but the problem I see happening is brush rubbing against them and possibility tearing a hole in them . Thanks again ,your videos have saved me these last five weeks (with at least another three to go) keep them coming . Cheers Pete .
Thank you - always great to know what you are looking at equipment wise and where it comes from.
Hi Andrew. I love your builds and all that goes with it. I also enjoy the trips away. Thank you love the rant its true. Regards John.
Beautifull BUT we’re is the wall beer opener?
Dear Andrew, dear readers, first of all: I love following you from project to project. Even if your choices seem awkward at times from the start..so my question would be: is it more important to safely secure a load or is it more important to eliminate at all costs rusty steel bolt heads? In a long run and especially on a flexing side panel of a 78
body I would avoid stainless bolts as for the brittleness of the stainless steel which is very hard hence not great at flexing or resisting rattles. Once you drill out holes in a steel body of any vehicle it is wise (and obvious) to comprehensively paint and rustproof the exposed edges of bare steel..so when inserting new steel bolts you can use spray galvanizing paint on the bolt and screw it tight, eliminating future rusting of the connection hole-to-bolt by a lot. Alternatively one can use polymer sealer as a contact barrier: water and airtight the steel won't rust. After many years of use it is in any case safe to say that one should check if the bolts are still in good condition and possibly replace them. Simple really, and that way rust should not be an issue. It is like preventative maintenance with all things mechanical. As for water tanks I would always and only choose food grade plastic and preferably a type where I can see the remaining level of water inside. Out in the bush it is important to be able to check your vital supplies such as water in a glance. Being cost effective and aiming at good solutions for little money (which I am always in favor of) I suggest building your own underfloor polyethylene tank. Simple soldering techniques using a hot air gun.."built not bought" is my suggestion for an approach to building our own vehicles.Make them your own. An idea, Andrew, you can surely agree to? best regards, Martin
Not awkward at all. Its experimenting. Im not going to hide stuff if it doesn't work. What then is the point?
I’m a fun of 200 series. After I watched many of your videos, I’m thinking of buying a Troopy Land Cruiser.
Andrew I admire your passion describing applied technologies on Troopy. Take care from Athens Greece.
Keep the Troopy builds coming 👍 and yes, nothing better than order and fitting accessories ❤
It’s looking like another awesome build, great video 👍
Specialized vehicles are not for everyone but those lucky enough or committed enough to build one can usually convince you that it’s worth it. 😊
Nice to see you giving the Temu rotolocks a go.
Thanks Andrew. idk that I would trust those rails to hold that much weight tbh? It's just a handful of screws held up by the bodywork. Water is very heavy.
Cheers.
water is 1L = 1 Kg. Tank, water, table, Maxtrax = +- 26kgs. On two rails with 10x8mm bolts and large washers inside. I think it is enough, but like everything about this, I shall see if I see signs of stress. I will keep a good look out for it and report back.
Bring on the Hi-ace!
Thanks for sharing and taking us along
You can buy rolls of yellow or red to stick on lights to deter insects.
Hi Andrew. As someone who also shares a love for the 78 I will not become tired of these build series and throughly do appreciate the experiments and insights from someone of your knowledge/experience.
I am currently building a new 2024 model myself and am interested to know why you have not considered a coil conversion on one of your previous builds, and if you did consider it, why not?
Thank you!
A lift of 4" minimum makes it too high. But in truth, I would have loved to try it. But too expensive for my blood.
Hi Andrew, looking forward as every time to the new Troopy build. Unfortunately most of the stuff you fit to your fantastic builds is not available here in Europe, but anyway it is so inspiring. Thanks! Would you share how to buildt your self-made gullwing box?
Fantastic. Thank you. You really need a home garage if you get a troopy.
Great wheel and tyre selection
Thanks for the great info. We have a troopy just like your one and are in need of sourcing accessories, so I'm very keenly watching all your videos. You have great ideas and I like how you do your own thing, for you 👍
that is the point of making these videos and sharing my experiences.
Rapter line the wheel flares and for the front flares you can use 3m tape the same as other Toyota oem flare kits
Your builds are always quality and am always looking to your uploads.
Would love to see you do the North American Toyota Land Cruiser
FYI. Those plastic fuel tanks are also used on motorbikes where according to the adverts 5 litres versions can be laid flat and still remain "vapour proof". They also have that type of central locking system.
Love you videos, just wish I had the balls and the wherewithal to go off-roading into the wild like you, the older I get the less I like big crowds or groups.
21:43: Couuld you not cut the right angled section off to make it a flat plate?
Speaking of fender flares, you should contact Arctic Trucks in South Africa and make a collaboration video with them, get some 38" balloon tires on that LC
Good luck mounting 50 odd kgs of exterior load to 1.2mm of sheet metal over corrugations!
Yeah definitly a bad idea
The already put max trax tables on sides of Troopys and they have proven to hold up if installed correctly and use the correct fixings
Also spreading the load as he is doing significantly changes how much weight it can hold.
I wouldn’t like the idea 50kg on the outboard and a fair way up the vehicle. Should be underneath or inside closer the centerline- for vehicle dynamic handling, but at least better than on rooftop
@@livelikekings8968 A maxtrax table is not the same as 3-4 jerry cans
Could trace out the bracket that goes through the water jerry and cut some steal out to pack it out further
Andrew- I know you are a big proponent of skinny tires (in fact, you taught me their benefits over wide tires- thank you!) so why do you say the factory tires do not perform well? I believe they are a 225/95R16 which is not far from 235/85/R16, which is a tire size I know you like/ have used before. Is there not a lot tire options in that size? Looking to continue to learn from you, thanks!
Love watching this build!
The 225/95R16 is 834 mm (32.8 in) design diameter versus 806 mm (31.7 in) design diameter for the 235/85R16, which is the same diameter as the old 7.50R16 size. The latter is a very common size used on the Land Rover Defender and the Santana PS-10 among others, but the gearing and speedometer accuracy will be out if you use it on a Land Cruiser 70 Series originally fitted with 225/95R16 tyres; those originally fitted with 7.50R16 will be fine.
It's not about the size but the quality and profile of the tire. OEM tires on 4x4s are not that good really
Agree about Front Runner, just that extra mile to finish product off, just does not happen. They have lots of excellent accessories….but you know you will have to diy much of the installation.
I'm a bit confused, a few years ago when the new bfg mt came out you said you hated wide tires, now you're back to 285 75 16. what about nothing performs like a troopy on skinnys? I have 265 75 16 MT on my HZJ76 with no flares, now im going back to 235 85 16 on the 6 inch wheels
Because there are no AT's the right size! If I want skinny, I have no choice but MTs. Im tired of the noise of MTs.
Fantastic work Andrew
The falken at3w and at4w are available in 255/85r16
Thank you for a great channel - so interesting watching your builds come together. What are you thoughts of Maxtrax against products like Grip 'n Go (foldable sand tracks)?
This is easy . . . MaxTrax is not just useful as a recovery tool. Grip 'n Go can do nothing else and are awkward to use. The design of the leading edges shows the designers didn't understand why MaxTrax is so good at recovery. One can't even use it them to remove sand around tyre before placing them. MaxTraxs actually pulls the rotating tyre underneath it!
In terms of additional load for the wheel bearing, spacers and larger offset have the same result. But with (decently fitted!) spacers you'd be more flexible when in comes to spare and tyre swap. Why the other offset then?
Love the troopy builds
Some thoughts, if I may. Using stainless steel bolts for fastening the load rails intruduces the risk of electrolytic corrosion, especially when one uses them as the only means for attaching the rails: the thread of the bolt will constantly rub against the drilled hole in the car body. Personally, I've used a layer of barium chromate to insulate the hole rim, and then put a nylon washer inside the hole completely insulating the nut from the car body (more details if you want them).
Secondly, so few nuts for so much weight just might not be sufficient. You could use heavy duty glue in addition to bolts. It would of course mean that the rails would be a permanent part of the car body, but their carrying capacity would be improved by a lot. Added benefit of this solution would be that car body resonation will vanish (I kmow from experience).
Galvanic corrosion happens when the fastener is the sacrificial one. If the body was stainless steel @4xoverland would have a problem with a steel or aluminium fastener. The stainless steel fastener is less of an issue.
I wonder if there is a support structure behind the skin where the middle of the track would be? The hole locations being off center would drive me batty.
These tracks are not made specifically for Troopy. They are just tracks. Can be fitted to any flat surface.
How are the rails mounted? Is it a nut and bolt configuration or are rivnuts worth considering (asking because I do not know)
So cool
What about using flanges instead of offset wheels? That way you can have 4 wheels with identical offset for easy swapping.
not legal in Australia
@@4xoverland offset rims are not legal in australia either
@@ramialam8812🤭‼️
With the extra wear on the bearings, what would your estimate be on quantifying this?
I have no idea. I hope to understand this better. This is the best way of doing this.
I absolutely love these vids thanks
2 questions regarding the new wider (and taller) wheels:
Did you need to lift your suspension first before fitting these? And do the new tyres rub on the wheel arches like I have seen on some other videos for the 2024 LC? Cheers and love the channel.
wheels are not a larger diameter. these and OE tyres are 33". And the chassis is exactly the same as the previous model 70 series when it comes to suspension.
Can't believe you are putting water tanks on the sides. Is that ADR compliant ?
if they are not too wide. So yes, these are.
Actually I think the reason you don’t want Coopers is important. I wish I knew why, because I respect you tremendously and I also like Coopers.
because hes sponsored by falken
It's ok, it's not detrimental to Cooper Tyres, they are excellent. It will be due to an advertising, sponsorship or some other similar disagreement. If it was due to real life testing of failure, he would state it.
@@vic6820He said “I don’t want Cooper.” I think there may be more to it.
If I ask for a product to be swapped for media exposure, I must know I want it. And be fairly confident that it will do the job. Cooper has very mixed reviews in Australia. I try and go with what I know. I tried to find TORO 255/85R16 tyres, but decided after I could not find a set anywhere, that I do not want M/Ts again. They are just not what I want to drive on any more. And as far as A/Ts go, the Falkens are pretty good. Maybe one of the best. I tried to explain myself in this video.
@@4xoverland I appreciate your response.
Hi Andrew, those rotopaks cannot be used for fuel as they don’t comply with ADRs
They are designed for fuel, but even so, I would not want to carry fuel like this.
@@4xoverland yes, they are designed for fuel but aren't allowed to be used in Australia to carry fuel as they don't comply with Australian Standards.
For your spare, add a spacer on your spare mount, to be used if the spare is required for the rear!
Wheel spacers are illegal in Australia
@@4xoverland even just for the use of the spare time?
@@4xoverland Isn't that wheel offset in the rear illegal in VIC anyway? They would be in NSW as only 12.5mm track change per side is allowed.
Just curious on thoughts regarding offset rims for insurance purposes? I've owned a 2017 76 series since new, running 0' on the front and -22' on the rear ( spare 0') as I was under the impression legally anything greater than +25 or -25 would not be insured. Any thoughts /advice Andrew or other followers?
Hi Andrew what`s the brand of 10 litre water tank is that ? Keep the good work up !! I like every minute .
Won’t putting the different size offset wheels on the rear increase wear on the bearings or?
I thought insects avoided fire on instinct because an open flame will kill them instantly. FfzzZZT…
Here in Central America my family light up candles if there are insects around the lunch or dinner table. The insects will not go near the open flame no matter the time of day, no matter the food on the table.
FfzzZZT works. 😁
Wheel bearings …
According to trustworthy sources the SKF grease called SKF Bearing Grease LGMT 2/5 is one of the best if not the best bearing grease money can buy.
Perhaps John Cadogan should explain why you should not swap the high tensile set screws the Front Runner rails came with to stainless steel
you are indeed correct sir. I should have checked. Time to publish a correction.
Groovy
Why not using spacer on the back?
Not an option. Not just because its illegal but a terrible idea for remote travel. Corrugations shake them loose really fast.
so Toyota design a car with a 6 cilinder with the same axle width. Toyota puts a V8 in and make the front wider but not the rear. Toyota put in 4 cilinder and keeps the front wide 😅 So the customer has to find the solution 😢 come on Toyota this is not needed to do it like this...
The reason for the axle difference is in the evolution of this car and done to save money.
Rear track is actually 95mm more than front and not 100mm
I also have offset wheels on the rear but was told different offset wheels arnt legal is that true
It's legal if you only increase the track by up to 50mm. See my comment above for the whole ADR on this.
Just use glue (Sikaflex 552 or similar) to attach the rails.
Love your videos. Could you list the items you've used in your builds? Ie brands etc. Cheers.
I always list everything I use on all my builds: www.4xoverland.com/hero-builds-at-4xoverland/
hi Andrew. do you think that the truck panel can take 20Kg (two 10L) water tanks bolted to the side on corrugations? I have Rotopax food grade water tank which I bolted to a cage inside.
I do, but I will keep a close eye on it during its first trip.
@@4xoverland Definitely, I see the Grenadier has already some 3rd party add-ons similar. Roto-pax are quality USA made ones.
Quick question, putting a negative 48 mm will fix the rear track , how will your wheel bearings go with such an aggressive offset. 🤔
I've been told 12mm negative is the most, due to bearing load..
Something to think about .
many if not most cars run from factory with off-sets rims far in excess of 12mm. 25mm is not uncommon.
@@4xoverland No 4wd I know of comes with negative offset factory wheels. Commonly they have positive offset where the wheel centreline is over the bearings - a good thing. Your 47 degree negative offset puts the wheel centreline a long way outside the bearings, which is why they need more frequent maintenance.
@@4xoverland And with that much offset it is becoming common to see cracks around the wide edge of the alloy rims. Also the negative offset can cause cracked diff housings on heavy 70series - usually at the U-bolts. Both are worth including on pre and post trip inspections.
Morning
Is it possible to make an ordinary troupe into a double cab by extending it and if so who would you suggest in South Africa
Thank you
I would not waste a Troopy but sell it and buy a double cab. Double cabs are cheaper and far more common. Troopy is uncommon and difficult to find so demands a far higher price.
Are the offset holes deliberate to miss something inside the body ??
no. They are not made specifically for Troopy. They are made for any flat surface.
Andrew, do you normally have front stabilizer bar disconnects on your builds? BTW, love the build videos.
no. Ive never owned a vehicle with that, and cannot retro-fit it to this, as far as I know. I deal with the wheel travel with lockers, front and back. Not as good I know. But Troopy is very good off road. Not the best, but certainly good enough. Best in my book is Jeep Rubicon and Mercedes G.
@@4xoverland Thank you for the reply!
You seem to be heavily inspired from the ineos grenedier with this one 😀
because of the side rails I assume.
Andrew I’m sure ya not allowed to have anything that will catch a human when ya sideswipe them stuck down the sides of any car as well as something that will slice chunks off as well . Unless it’s collapsible like side mirrors or it can smash off with ease.But correct me if I’m wrong or ADR rules have changed I’d like ya feedback on your attachments
Can you do a workshop/garage tour?
do you want one?
Cant the offset only be increased by a maximum of 25mm ?
❤
So will you fit flares on the rear?
they are already fitted in this video
@TerryCassar They are already fitted in this video
It looks like you and John from Auto Expert have switched facial hair.
Beard all the way mate, lookin’ sharp 🤟
Um, reason no cooper tyres is they wont donate a set. Thats me being cynical.
Ive had plenty of cooper tyres and never ever had an issue.
I never asked Cooper for tyres, so I don't know if they would donate. I only ask for a product if I already know I want the product. And I don't want them because I know of too many who have had bad experiences in Aus with Cooper. But did look to buy (not sponsor) another tyre I really liked. But seems, not available in Australia any more. Also a different size to these. But no solution exists: an all-terrain 255/85R16.
Quick question, if you modified a newer vehicle, would you void the warranty?
this is a brand new car. Yes and no. If I change the suspension, I void the warrantee on the suspension. But not the whole car. etc.
@@4xoverland Thanks Andrew! Would you void the paint warranty for mounting side rails?
Is it legal running such a wider track on the rear? And are you concerned about the wheel bearing life?
See my comment on this above. This is the ADR on making the wheel track wider: "The allowable wheel track increase of all off-road four wheel drive vehicles and goods vehicles (ADR category MC, NA, NB) has now been increased to no more than 50mm beyond the maximum specified by the vehicle manufacturer for the particular model.1 Nov 2015." But realistically, what are your chances of getting caught? Practiaclly zero, unless you have a prang maybe.
I mentioned accelerated bearing wear in the video.
@@4xoverland It doesn't seem to be a big problem. I had 50mm Neg offset per wheel on my Troopy for years and no noticable effects, and it was right on GVM.
For my current build (an LC79) I am going neg 25mm on Kings 1600Kg rims, so I can stay legal (I didn't know about the ADR 50mm track limit when I built my Troopy).
So I don't think you'll have any significant bearing issues.
And for some strange reason the Troopy missis out on a reverse camera. Why Toyota ?
This Toyota misses a lot of modern driver aids with this car. But we don't mind. Its basic. And this works for me.
I really dislike the FrontRunner product. I always feel like they cheated me out of my money. In theory its great stuff. Expensive, but great. But then it arrives and this feeling starts. Once mounted I feel like they ripped me off, and I regret not getting my equipment from a different company
me too.
Andrew why don’t you keep a wheel spacer for spare so you can have the correction or go 0 off set as needed
Wheel spacers are illegal in Australia
Wheel spacers are illegal in Australia
It’s wild how much you pay only to pay more for aftermarket parts that should genuinely be standard.
like what, for example?
As a coincidence i was working on a design for a “max track table” to be incorporated on the side of my dual cab. The gull wing canopy doors to my tub are just too high to be a practical kitchen base and drop down tables are still pretty limited. From a camping perspective your design looks good. But we are dealing with a vehicle that drives down normal roads not a static dwelling and I think Ive come to the conclusion that such modifications do not comply with Vehicle Modification Standards. Im not willing to bet my insurance coverage on such a modification.
Now im a lawyer not an engineer or certifier so my interpretation of the ADRs and VSB14 looks at the arguments an officious beauracrat or police officer wishing to prove a point and put me off the road. In VSB14 under the provisions relating to modification of vehicles for camping etc there is a general catchall provision. General Safety Requihrements -about page 65 - that states:
“The vehicle must not be modified or fitted with any object, fitting or appliance that is likely to cause the risk of bodily injury to any person.”
I think that there may be additional State road rules that also criminalise bolt on features on the side of a vehicle. While a spade on a roof rack is probably acceptable, the same spade at fender level makes a perfect pedestrian slicer. The well designed maxtrax pins for storing these recovery boards are a risk anywhere below head height, although you may be able to argue that providing they do not exceed the overall width of the vehicle that they don’t increase the risk to pedestrians. Not sure about your water/ fuel containers with their brackets - maybe they pass but id want signoff from your insurer to be safe. The maxtrax table even without the pins is a pedestrian julienne appliance.
While i like the design and camping function you have presented I think it is problematic.
www.infrastructure.gov.au/sites/default/files/migrated/vehicles/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/files/NCOP6_Section_LH_Body_and_Chassis_01Jan2011_v3.pdf
FYI. These Troopys with the tables attached successfully complete and pass pit tests. All over Australia. There aren hundreds of them driving throughout Australia without issues.
Alu-innovations are manufacturing the sun visors now I have heard. Should save a few $$$
I have seen them. Far more expensive than the Toyota ones in AUS.
I see Front Runner the same way I see my old Land Rover - brilliant ideas but poorly executed.
I always watched your videos, but this is the last, cannot watch so called builds where only free gear is fitted, it has become an advertising series now, time to move on,