🥴supply a tripod that doesnt fit the dorky usb location. Why would you call your other $$$ product a whale - who is going to buy that !! I think not enuf detail because alot of averaging happening to minimise noise
So other then all the rest of the people here, how tiny can this thing go. I am mainly interested in stuff for jewelry. I find it tough to decide between the current deal they have or spend a bit more and buy a revopoint mini :)
I have both, and I think I'd lean toward the mini for jewelry. The detail level is pretty similar between the two, but something about the way the mini makes a mesh is a little more organic seeming to my eye. At least with the current versions of their respective softwares. If I only had the Mole, I'd be happy with it, though. Keep in mind you'll need a scanning spray of some sort if you're scanning polished metal/stones.
@@jasperjanderson That was one fast reply, thanks very much for it. (i actually also watched your mini review). I think i will just order it right now, for the price its currently at i could always resell it i guess :)
I’ve seen mention that one company might be behind both, but I don’t know for sure, and I haven’t compared the specs on the two to know what the differences are.
@@markm49 Which company ??? The Creality Lizard came out some time ago (I have one) Why would they release the Creality Lizard first ? I have just bought a Revopoint scanner because the Creality software is rubbish.
I haven’t used that particular Einscan model, but I agree. The results from these consumer level scanners are pretty similar to what a lot of high end ones can do. I’m looking forward to seeing what they can do in a few years!
Jasper thanks for the content I have a question I’m tired of modeling stuff and I want to get into 3D scan . Do you think this scanner will work on gunpla model kits ? I do custom work for weapons and some body mods and I want to know if I can use this scanner on this sort of stuff ? Thank you for your time .
I haven’t seen any scanner that will give you a finished part ready for output. You’re always going to have to do some cleanup work. From the little I know about gunpla, you’re looking at parts less than an inch in size with sharp geometric forms, right? I think that’s going to be a challenge for any scanner. This one would definitely give you something to work with, but I’d expect to do some reconstruction. If what you’re after is to get the pieces scanned so you can make parts that fit against them (like my video on the revopoint mini making replacement parts for a 1/8 scale model kit), then I do think this would be suitable.
Any chance you could post an example .scanproj file from something you've scanned? I am hoping to play around with JMStudio before my Mole arrives. Thanks!
That’s a good idea. I don’t really want to put these scans online, but if I get a chance to do some more scans soon, I’ll see if I can make that happen.
You need a tripod with a narrow head so that there is room for the cord, but I believe the screw size is standard, so you should be able to use your own.
For me, I usually either want to 3D print the object with alterations (size, details) or I want to 3D print something that fits against it. I’ve done a few other 3D scanning videos that show more of my process that you may find interesting.
So the mole is selling at a pretty impressive preorder price right now (350 base price, 430-500 for bundles) and I'm considering getting one. I wanted to get a scanner for use on hand-sculpted models (no more than 1x1x1 ft) that I would clean up and detail a bit more virtually, then eventually try to rig and animate. Since I'm primarily planning on scanning things made from matte, single color materials like oil/polymer clays, I'm hoping to avoid a lot of the issues scanners can run into with reflectivity/colors confusing them. Would you recommend the mole for my purposes? What has been your experience working on the topography of scans using this software? That's a major issue I've heard discussed in regards to this stuff, that there ends up being so much manual post processing that you might as well just model fully digital in the first place. Also, have you experimented with using some kind of scanning spray or similar to improve the accuracy of scans like they do for mechanical components sometimes? My understanding is that in addition to providing a matte surface it works by adding a bit of power or speckling for the scanner to latch on to. I was thinking I could just throw a light dusting of flour onto stuff before scanning, but I was also wondering if it might be possible to mix something into the clay to provide the visual effect without affecting the consistency or reusability of the clay.
I don’t think multiple colors would confuse any scanners, but clear or reflective material will confuse most. In fact, I don’t think any of these types of scanners are using the color information to stitch the scan together, just topography. As long as your surface is not shiny, you should have no problem. If it is shiny or dark, then a scanning spray will make it easier for the scanner to read it. Photogrammetry look only at color information, so speckling would benefit you in that type of scan. You’re going to want to generate new topology to do your resculpting with most of the time. I use ZBrush, so I will Dynamesh my scans and work from that, since the scan mesh is not usually conducive to adding detail by itself. Yes, you will almost always need to do resculpting or clean up work on your scans, even with high end scanners. The decision of whether to scan from the real world or work entirely digitally is a choice made from project to project for me.
Thank you for the video and your time. Can you be more specific when aligh all the clouds? If I have more than 3, what is the correct orden and how to align them. Thanks!
I think you just have to use your best judgment here, since the instructions I received were limited. I’d say you probably want to start with the ones that have the most overlap so that it has more to work with. You might even be able to to do them all at once.
@@JoseAguiloworkshops It's hard to answer without seeing what you've got, but generally for margin two scans, I've found you want as much overlap as you can capture so that it's got plenty of features to work with to find alignment points. But you also don't want too much overlap on critical detail areas, because lots of duplicate data will make for less clean final results.
Thank you for the great Video. Question regarding the mac. What is your machine? What Processor and GPU, and RAM? i use a intel i5 Mac 16 RAM 2020. do you think thats enough? Thanks
@@jasperjanderson thank you for your reply! and it works great? or do you prefer more power for the 3D application to work with the huge Data from the scans?
This does not have a built in color camera. It appears they have introduced an optional add on that allows you to get color information using your phone during the scan, but it wasn't available yet when I made this.
The challenge with scanning a whole person is the small movements that people make even when standing still. For that reason, you want to be able to capture as quickly as possible so they have less time to move too much. I don’t think it’s designed for that because the field of view is not huge. It could probably be done, but if that’s your primary need for a scanner, I’d look at one with a larger capture area.
@@doctorpd1959 I have not. Definitely something I'd like to do when I have time. There's also the Revopoint Range that is marketed toward that purpose.
@@jasperjanderson I actually bought the Whale a few months ago when they had a big sale and I bought it for under $1,000. However, it is still brand new in the box and I have not even turn it on to test it out since I am so busy since I received it.
I haven’t scanned the same object with both, but I don’t feel that the detail level is significantly different on the Mole vs. the “near mode” on the Whale. I think this is probably aimed at people who don’t have the Whale and will be scanning medium sized objects.
🥴supply a tripod that doesnt fit the dorky usb location.
Why would you call your other $$$ product a whale - who is going to buy that !!
I think not enuf detail because alot of averaging happening to minimise noise
So other then all the rest of the people here, how tiny can this thing go. I am mainly interested in stuff for jewelry. I find it tough to decide between the current deal they have or spend a bit more and buy a revopoint mini :)
I have both, and I think I'd lean toward the mini for jewelry. The detail level is pretty similar between the two, but something about the way the mini makes a mesh is a little more organic seeming to my eye. At least with the current versions of their respective softwares. If I only had the Mole, I'd be happy with it, though. Keep in mind you'll need a scanning spray of some sort if you're scanning polished metal/stones.
@@jasperjanderson That was one fast reply, thanks very much for it. (i actually also watched your mini review). I think i will just order it right now, for the price its currently at i could always resell it i guess :)
Isnt this scanner just a rip off of the Creality Lizard Scanner ? The software is EXACTLY the same !
I’ve seen mention that one company might be behind both, but I don’t know for sure, and I haven’t compared the specs on the two to know what the differences are.
This company makes the creality scanners.
@@markm49 Which company ??? The Creality Lizard came out some time ago (I have one) Why would they release the Creality Lizard first ?
I have just bought a Revopoint scanner because the Creality software is rubbish.
Yes they made the lizard at the very least they are using a new processor so you can scan using your phone and you cant on lizard
I have an Einscan HX which is a $14,000 scanner - this is actually comparible. I'm impressed.
I haven’t used that particular Einscan model, but I agree. The results from these consumer level scanners are pretty similar to what a lot of high end ones can do. I’m looking forward to seeing what they can do in a few years!
Jasper thanks for the content I have a question I’m tired of modeling stuff and I want to get into 3D scan . Do you think this scanner will work on gunpla model kits ? I do custom work for weapons and some body mods and I want to know if I can use this scanner on this sort of stuff ? Thank you for your time .
I haven’t seen any scanner that will give you a finished part ready for output. You’re always going to have to do some cleanup work. From the little I know about gunpla, you’re looking at parts less than an inch in size with sharp geometric forms, right? I think that’s going to be a challenge for any scanner. This one would definitely give you something to work with, but I’d expect to do some reconstruction. If what you’re after is to get the pieces scanned so you can make parts that fit against them (like my video on the revopoint mini making replacement parts for a 1/8 scale model kit), then I do think this would be suitable.
@@jasperjanderson awesome thank you for the super fast reply and the wisdom !
Can it scan objects that's like 40 inches or above?
With patience, you could, but there are other scanners designed more for that purpose like the 3DMakerPro Whale or Revopoint Range
@@jasperjanderson Thanks!
Any chance you could post an example .scanproj file from something you've scanned? I am hoping to play around with JMStudio before my Mole arrives. Thanks!
That’s a good idea. I don’t really want to put these scans online, but if I get a chance to do some more scans soon, I’ll see if I can make that happen.
Could you please make a mole vs Revo mini comparison ? On smaller parts, say a lego minifig or the Aurora Frankenstein head kit ? Regards
I’ll see what I can do, but it might take me a while.
Thanks for this review. One question, do you think a standard tripod would work with this scanner or you are stuck to use their small one?
You need a tripod with a narrow head so that there is room for the cord, but I believe the screw size is standard, so you should be able to use your own.
I've thought about buying a 3d scanner, but what would it be used for once you scan an object? 3d print it?
For me, I usually either want to 3D print the object with alterations (size, details) or I want to 3D print something that fits against it. I’ve done a few other 3D scanning videos that show more of my process that you may find interesting.
So the mole is selling at a pretty impressive preorder price right now (350 base price, 430-500 for bundles) and I'm considering getting one.
I wanted to get a scanner for use on hand-sculpted models (no more than 1x1x1 ft) that I would clean up and detail a bit more virtually, then eventually try to rig and animate. Since I'm primarily planning on scanning things made from matte, single color materials like oil/polymer clays, I'm hoping to avoid a lot of the issues scanners can run into with reflectivity/colors confusing them. Would you recommend the mole for my purposes?
What has been your experience working on the topography of scans using this software? That's a major issue I've heard discussed in regards to this stuff, that there ends up being so much manual post processing that you might as well just model fully digital in the first place.
Also, have you experimented with using some kind of scanning spray or similar to improve the accuracy of scans like they do for mechanical components sometimes? My understanding is that in addition to providing a matte surface it works by adding a bit of power or speckling for the scanner to latch on to. I was thinking I could just throw a light dusting of flour onto stuff before scanning, but I was also wondering if it might be possible to mix something into the clay to provide the visual effect without affecting the consistency or reusability of the clay.
I don’t think multiple colors would confuse any scanners, but clear or reflective material will confuse most. In fact, I don’t think any of these types of scanners are using the color information to stitch the scan together, just topography. As long as your surface is not shiny, you should have no problem. If it is shiny or dark, then a scanning spray will make it easier for the scanner to read it. Photogrammetry look only at color information, so speckling would benefit you in that type of scan. You’re going to want to generate new topology to do your resculpting with most of the time. I use ZBrush, so I will Dynamesh my scans and work from that, since the scan mesh is not usually conducive to adding detail by itself. Yes, you will almost always need to do resculpting or clean up work on your scans, even with high end scanners. The decision of whether to scan from the real world or work entirely digitally is a choice made from project to project for me.
Did you get it and?
Get some aesub scanning spray! Makes a huge difference.
I use it often on dark and shiny objects. I haven’t noticed much difference when something is satin finish or flatter- have you?
Thank you for the video and your time. Can you be more specific when aligh all the clouds? If I have more than 3, what is the correct orden and how to align them. Thanks!
I think you just have to use your best judgment here, since the instructions I received were limited. I’d say you probably want to start with the ones that have the most overlap so that it has more to work with. You might even be able to to do them all at once.
@@jasperjanderson i start to play with the unit yesterday. Scan quality superb. But i can't fugure out complex alignment
@@JoseAguiloworkshops I have had times where alignment works well automatically and times where it does not. I think a lot depends on the object.
@@jasperjanderson can you advice how to do it in complex objects? If you know or can? Thanks
@@JoseAguiloworkshops It's hard to answer without seeing what you've got, but generally for margin two scans, I've found you want as much overlap as you can capture so that it's got plenty of features to work with to find alignment points. But you also don't want too much overlap on critical detail areas, because lots of duplicate data will make for less clean final results.
Thank you for the great Video. Question regarding the mac. What is your machine? What Processor and GPU, and RAM? i use a intel i5 Mac 16 RAM 2020. do you think thats enough? Thanks
I do not know enough about computers to make a recommendation there, but mine is a 2021 M1 Max with 32GB RAM. Glad you liked the video!
@@jasperjanderson thank you for your reply! and it works great? or do you prefer more power for the 3D application to work with the huge Data from the scans?
@@luckyluck3093 I don't really have a frame of reference for how much better or worse it could be, but it seemed to be performing about as expected.
Good review on mole thank you
Glad you found it helpful!
Does it scan textures? Or do I need some software for add textures?
This does not have a built in color camera. It appears they have introduced an optional add on that allows you to get color information using your phone during the scan, but it wasn't available yet when I made this.
Is this a good face scanner?
I have not tried it on a face yet
Can you hook it up to your phone?
I think they’ve got an optional accessory that lets you use your phone.
It seems to perform well...do you think it would be able to scan a whole person?
The challenge with scanning a whole person is the small movements that people make even when standing still. For that reason, you want to be able to capture as quickly as possible so they have less time to move too much. I don’t think it’s designed for that because the field of view is not huge. It could probably be done, but if that’s your primary need for a scanner, I’d look at one with a larger capture area.
@@jasperjanderson Have you tried full body scanning with your Whale and does it work well?
@@doctorpd1959 I have not. Definitely something I'd like to do when I have time. There's also the Revopoint Range that is marketed toward that purpose.
@@jasperjanderson I actually bought the Whale a few months ago when they had a big sale and I bought it for under $1,000. However, it is still brand new in the box and I have not even turn it on to test it out since I am so busy since I received it.
@@doctorpd1959 it takes some time to learn the ropes of these things, but it’s a fantastic tool to have.
In your opinion, which is better...the Whale or the Mole? If you already have the Whale, would you also buy the Mole?
I haven’t scanned the same object with both, but I don’t feel that the detail level is significantly different on the Mole vs. the “near mode” on the Whale. I think this is probably aimed at people who don’t have the Whale and will be scanning medium sized objects.