Another good thing to setup is the bar rise/rotation. I’ve seen most shop setup bars turned back/down which stresses the wrist. Additionally, loosening the brake levers till they can be moved with a lot of force, but tight enough they won’t move under normal use - this protects the lever if they slam into a tree or hit the ground. Twisting is better than breaking or bending.
You just reminded me of the crazy BMX set ups that used to plague the cheap bike shops, handlebars angled forwards with the levers parallel to the ground
Regarding tubeless tyres If you have a new tyre that just wont sit on the bead (because of thick sidewall, weird folds from being packaged, etc). Mount it using a tube first and leave it for a few hours or even overnight. Next time you pump it up with sealant in, it will seat 100% guaranteed.
I agree - I've found it's always best to seat the tyre first (especially if it's brand new) and let it sit for a while, then undo the valve core and put the sealant in that way, rather than slosh it in when you're first fitting the tyre and hope it all seats against the bead first time.
Yep, same goes if you replace the rim tape, leave a tube in pumped to the max for a day or. When you re-tape leave your wheel in the house for 24hrs with the tape and do it at room temp. As for sealant, use a shit load. If you can afford to, buy a tower pump with rapid inflation function.
6:00 brake position is super important and caught me out in an odd way. When I first moved to wide bars I wasn’t used to how wide they were and was clipping trees with the bar ends. Moved the brakes out further, got my hands out further, had a better sense/awareness of how wide I was and stopped clipping trees!
Great shout! Running your brakes in a comfortable position is key. It's also vital to make sure you're running the correct bar length for your height. 👍
Really? i have a wide bar not more than a month and I struggle of keeping my hands on the edge of the bar. i also dont wanna cut it yet cause I think i can get the hang of it. i do notice i placed my brakes further in. I will change it later today and see if thats what holding my full control back.
If your brake lever feels a little spongy or not quite right and you don't have time, kit or skills to bleed them then I've had success tying a rope or strap around the lever forcing it to stay in the fully pulled position overnight. The next day undo the strapping and any tiny bubbles seem to get moved up through the system (not out as it's still sealed) but they feel better 👍
I used to only run scwalbe rapid robs all round until I started to actually go to nature reserves and trails when I moved, since then I've got a magic Mary upfront and nobby nic out back much better, feels a bit more sluggish due to the magic Mary but it grips for days and even helped me improve my riding
I bed my brakes the same way as I do with my cars. Get up to speed or ride down a slight hill, then grab the brakes as hard as you can without skidding. Let off before you come to a complete stop and repeat 3-4 times.
Never lock brakes when bedding in... and u need to get them hot... the dirt thing is just trailside pad de-glazing. Easier to take the pads out and rub on a rough (wetted) rock /stone (not tarmac tho!) Or make a course rubbing paste with water and dust
If you can't seat a tubeless tire, wrap it thigt with a tie down strap all the way arround down the middle of the tire (the kind with the cam bukcles are better). That way you press the middle of the tire against the rim reducing the volume and all the air you pump goes to the beads. When the tire gets very thigt against the strap press the buckle to release it a little and continue pumping. If you have short straps you can chain them to reach all around the wheel.
Better way to seat tubeless tires is us hot soapy water, dip a foam paintbrush in that mixture. With the tire on the rim run the soapy foam paintbrush along the bead of the tire. Now you’re ready to hit the tire with the air compressor.
#StraightHandlebars Get a piece of string about 2m long and a couple of plastic milk bottle tops (or some plastic lid just larger than the end of your grip ends. Pot a hole in the edge of both lids (if the lid was a drinking glass, about where you sip from)... Tie a lid to either end of the string. find the centre of the string (fit long explanation of a task I'm sure you can figure... here)... and tie a knot. (A simple single round & through leaving a small loop is perfect). Fit a cap on each bar end... putt the string tight and place the knot over the front wheel (anywhere) and adjust the bars until the knot is in the middle of the tread... (Use a longer/shorter bit of string (or make the middle loop bigger etc) to find a size that puts the middle knot somewhere nicely on top of the tyre...) Charge your mates $5 to adjust their handle bars... Send me 20% designer fee... now I can sit back and reap the rewards... q8D
With tubeless deflating, I found pumping my maxxis high roller up to 60 ish psi overnight stopped the leak, but I think it was caused by a poorly seated bead which higher pressure would help with so milage may vary
The hack for getting the stem straight is the easiest way I've ever done it, but it's still not easy. I allways have to adjust it after a few hundred meters maybe 2-3 times until its really straight
There are tools for guaranteeing a straight stem because eyeballing it is tricky and imprecise. Of course such specialty tools really aren't worth it for the home mechanic who might only need to use them once every year or two.
Looks like a Topeak Ratchet Rocket Lite, also sold as the Granite Rock n Roll Mini (and some other brands I can't remember). Great wee tools for carrying on the bike, just really easy to keep losing the 2mm bit!
@@RossFinnie I lost the 2mm bit a couple weeks ago. It can only have fallen out inside my bike bag, but I've not been able to find it. I have no idea where it went!
@@Durwood71 yup, mine has disappeared and reappeared a few times now! Wera do some really nice replacement bits, I just bought a bunch of them from RS components to keep as spares.
@@RossFinnie Thankfully, the smallest size on my bike is 2.5mm, so I don't really miss the 2mm, although the empty spot in my Ratchet Rocket case bugs me.
Fixing breaks by putting dirt into the rotors... Who would have thought 🤡 I am hoping I will never ever have to do so, but it is fascinating thing to know. ❤
Thanks, I am in the process of switching my Sram Code brakes with Derore XT brake, but Shimano mount doesn't work with the Sram shifter. So I am looking at Wolf Tooth's shifter mount. What are some other options?
that's exactly everything i tell my customers. And everyone responds with: "I've never been told that..." Best Point: The last one. i can't tell how often ppl like to not read the instructions. Why not !? :D
Hey Neil what about scuffing up new tyres when tyres are new they have a wax on them thats slippery dont just get new tyre and go flat out unless you want to die tyres will always get better after say about 20 k ride ..and yep if anyone tries to touch my rotors they get a slapping .I dont let anyone touch any part of my bike 👊
I was genuinely surprised when he suggested deliberately introducing water and dirt to your brake system since it goes against everything I've ever heard before.
Add on: If your brakes work well, avoid cleaning them. Wash out new tubeless tires with soapy water, they often have residue of some stuff from manufacturing that stops the sealant from sticking to them. Setting up gears with a tiny bit too much cable tension makes them shift quicker to lower gears which is often what you need in emergency situations. They will shift good enough into a faster gear anyway.
I've done the brake rotor contamination bit, even removed my pads and rubbed them on a step to remove any glaze on them. Does t always work but has more often than not.
@@johnh3095 one way to sometimes save contaminated pads is get a small tin of metho and dip the pads in it and while holding the pads outside with a pair of pliers set them on fire do this a few times as it will burn of the oil and leave your pads clean if there really bad like soaked in oil it want work if this is the case your rotor will be toast to .
@@Yoda-em5mt you can always recover rotors with good brake cleaner, however, like you say, badly contaminated pads are bin worthy only. I've ridden on on contaminated pads after a seal failure and can attest to ever smokier stops the closer to he end of the ride I got. I had replacement pads, but no point fitting as they would also have been contaminated.
@@johnh3095 not always i had a front rotor same deal fork seal leaked down back of fork didnt notice straight away and for the life of me couldnt get the oil out of all the slots in that rotor tryed the brake cleaner set it on fire and it would get hot and re contaminate fresh pads ended up in the bin .live and learn ha ha .
That actually makes sense, because when you ride, you're pinching your tire between the insert and the ground, which seems like a guaranteed way to cause punctures.
To get the bars straight, I loosen up the stem bolts and stand in front of the bike facing rearward with the front wheel between my legs. Then and lift the back wheel and balance it until it feels right, then put it down, tighten up the stem bolts and away you go
The tiny little plastic spacer that came with the headset is not a spacer, it's the crown race and it's been part of basically every headset since 1 1/8" steerers came out. If you mostly deal with assembled or partially assembled bikes you could mistakenly assume it's part of the fork because many versions are metal and look like a piece of the steerer tube when installed.
I don’t necessarily agree with your brake hack. If I had new pads that weren’t bedded in I would get on a good down hill and let the brakes drag for 45 seconds.
I had to mix GX and SX same brand when I lost a derailleur and there was limited stock. Kept the original shifter downgraded the derailleur as one level up was carbon and the current one I had was out of stock. Works perfectly fine as they were both designed for 12 speed of same brand. Could be some gotchas I’m not aware of with other setups. Don’t mix cable and wireless? 🤷♂️ 😝
Hey guys maybe someone here could help me, I kinda want to "get into" this sport but I have a big problem: I'm scared to go I'm scared that I'll crash, not because I might hurt myself, I have experience in that, but because I don't want to break my bike (oh yeah, I also don't have one yet but i could get one). I just don't want to get a new bike, get excited and then break it on my first run Is there like insurance for your bike? Or how likely is it for them to break in a crash? I don't want to throw the money in the bin if you k ow what I mean
Just buy a cheaper bike (pre-owned) and ride it until it dies... Probably best way to get into the sport without spending "too much" on equipment. Bikes are fairly strong now a days. Weak point probably will be derailleur hanger, tires and brake levers. In my experience the bike breaks less frequently than the body 😂
@@nothing9260 you can also buy frame protectors that are plastic covers, either clear, frosted or with patterns, that are meant to protect the paint on your bike from chipping. Mostly from rocks flying while you ride, but I assume it would also work to protect from falls as well. Think screen protector for your phone, but for a bike. Gmbn have some videos on them, last Neil added some on his new Kenevo SL build. Personally I consider them a bit too much, nor do I use screen protectors for my phone, but if you really want to extend the pristine condition of your new bike, it might be worth it. Otherwise I'd second what's been mentioned: buy a second hand bike that you dare to ride to the limit. Then, when you know you both enjoy the sport and are more comfortable riding faster, you can buy the bike you really want. That's what I did, and I even ended up with an e-mtb. Loving it :)
Start easy, maybe even start with a lesson and rental package. An instructor can get you going with some confidence and answer all your questions. Rental bikes have a small insurance fee so no worries about breaking it...which is unlikely if you signed yourself up for the beginner level class.
Start easy, maybe even start with a lesson and rental package. An instructor can get you going with some confidence and answer all your questions. Rental bikes have a small insurance fee so no worries about breaking it...which is unlikely if you signed yourself up for the beginner level class.
Do you have any bike setup tips? Let us know down below!👇
Another good thing to setup is the bar rise/rotation. I’ve seen most shop setup bars turned back/down which stresses the wrist. Additionally, loosening the brake levers till they can be moved with a lot of force, but tight enough they won’t move under normal use - this protects the lever if they slam into a tree or hit the ground. Twisting is better than breaking or bending.
Ah yes. Rolling the bar! Good reminder mate! Safe riding to all! Aloha.
Those tips have already come through GMBN, probably just tried to avoid repetition.
You just reminded me of the crazy BMX set ups that used to plague the cheap bike shops, handlebars angled forwards with the levers parallel to the ground
i snapped a mount once and now I religiously do this on every bike I own
@@_3.time_ I guarantee that repetition definetely is not an issue GMBN consider... they have run out of ideas around, let's say... around 2018
Regarding tubeless tyres
If you have a new tyre that just wont sit on the bead (because of thick sidewall, weird folds from being packaged, etc). Mount it using a tube first and leave it for a few hours or even overnight.
Next time you pump it up with sealant in, it will seat 100% guaranteed.
That might be worth a try! Thanks for the tip! 👍
Oh yeah good one, I've used that once
I agree - I've found it's always best to seat the tyre first (especially if it's brand new) and let it sit for a while, then undo the valve core and put the sealant in that way, rather than slosh it in when you're first fitting the tyre and hope it all seats against the bead first time.
Yep, same goes if you replace the rim tape, leave a tube in pumped to the max for a day or. When you re-tape leave your wheel in the house for 24hrs with the tape and do it at room temp. As for sealant, use a shit load. If you can afford to, buy a tower pump with rapid inflation function.
Fingers crossed this will solve my issue, after half an hour my tyres start losing pressure . I'll give it a try because it's so frustrating
"and by success I mean I got to the end" awesomely honest clarification 🙂
6:00 brake position is super important and caught me out in an odd way. When I first moved to wide bars I wasn’t used to how wide they were and was clipping trees with the bar ends. Moved the brakes out further, got my hands out further, had a better sense/awareness of how wide I was and stopped clipping trees!
Great shout! Running your brakes in a comfortable position is key. It's also vital to make sure you're running the correct bar length for your height. 👍
Really? i have a wide bar not more than a month and I struggle of keeping my hands on the edge of the bar. i also dont wanna cut it yet cause I think i can get the hang of it. i do notice i placed my brakes further in. I will change it later today and see if thats what holding my full control back.
@@vincetravisangeles2852 I was in a similar boat as you mate, till I chopped my bars by 10mm and the comfort and control I got was incredible!
@@vincetravisangeles2852 that would be awesome if my tip helped out another person - let me know how it works out for you! 🤘
If your brake lever feels a little spongy or not quite right and you don't have time, kit or skills to bleed them then I've had success tying a rope or strap around the lever forcing it to stay in the fully pulled position overnight. The next day undo the strapping and any tiny bubbles seem to get moved up through the system (not out as it's still sealed) but they feel better 👍
It helps to vibrate/tap the cable a LOT, and move the bike in different angles during different times.
I did the same thing with the plastic spacer! Didn’t know that was the problem!
I used to only run scwalbe rapid robs all round until I started to actually go to nature reserves and trails when I moved, since then I've got a magic Mary upfront and nobby nic out back much better, feels a bit more sluggish due to the magic Mary but it grips for days and even helped me improve my riding
I just did the rotor thing and it works immediately
When will we get mullet Torque vs Giga on the timed lap?
I love the torque but its a freeride bike, not a race bike
Well, very soon actually
Great video 😃
This is perfect timing my new genius comes in today
Very helpful. Cheers Neil 👊🏼
5:20...British winter...basically from July 31st til April 30th. LOL
Hey great video I love these hacks these help me so much on repairs and on other things so I want to say thank u keep up the good work
Glad you liked the video! Thanks for the support!
Where's Blake?
Great content here, nice ride
I bed my brakes the same way as I do with my cars. Get up to speed or ride down a slight hill, then grab the brakes as hard as you can without skidding. Let off before you come to a complete stop and repeat 3-4 times.
Some great tips to remember...Hoping I do! LOL
Thanks for the support, Bill! Safe riding!
Some very useful tips there 👍🏼
gmbn you should go to the gap bike park in ireland
Gmbn finally catching on after the success of seths videos so long ago.
Never lock brakes when bedding in... and u need to get them hot... the dirt thing is just trailside pad de-glazing.
Easier to take the pads out and rub on a rough (wetted) rock /stone (not tarmac tho!) Or make a course rubbing paste with water and dust
Take the pads out, wet them, and rub them against each other instead of something else, does the job and keeps them from getting dirty
If you can't seat a tubeless tire, wrap it thigt with a tie down strap all the way arround down the middle of the tire (the kind with the cam bukcles are better). That way you press the middle of the tire against the rim reducing the volume and all the air you pump goes to the beads. When the tire gets very thigt against the strap press the buckle to release it a little and continue pumping.
If you have short straps you can chain them to reach all around the wheel.
Better way to seat tubeless tires is us hot soapy water, dip a foam paintbrush in that mixture. With the tire on the rim run the soapy foam paintbrush along the bead of the tire. Now you’re ready to hit the tire with the air compressor.
#StraightHandlebars
Get a piece of string about 2m long and a couple of plastic milk bottle tops (or some plastic lid just larger than the end of your grip ends.
Pot a hole in the edge of both lids (if the lid was a drinking glass, about where you sip from)...
Tie a lid to either end of the string.
find the centre of the string (fit long explanation of a task I'm sure you can figure... here)... and tie a knot. (A simple single round & through leaving a small loop is perfect).
Fit a cap on each bar end... putt the string tight and place the knot over the front wheel (anywhere) and adjust the bars until the knot is in the middle of the tread...
(Use a longer/shorter bit of string (or make the middle loop bigger etc) to find a size that puts the middle knot somewhere nicely on top of the tyre...)
Charge your mates $5 to adjust their handle bars...
Send me 20% designer fee... now I can sit back and reap the rewards...
q8D
With tubeless deflating, I found pumping my maxxis high roller up to 60 ish psi overnight stopped the leak, but I think it was caused by a poorly seated bead which higher pressure would help with so milage may vary
Not a bad idea. More sealant is usually the answer in my experience
The hack for getting the stem straight is the easiest way I've ever done it, but it's still not easy. I allways have to adjust it after a few hundred meters maybe 2-3 times until its really straight
There are tools for guaranteeing a straight stem because eyeballing it is tricky and imprecise. Of course such specialty tools really aren't worth it for the home mechanic who might only need to use them once every year or two.
Neil or anyone what brand ratchet are you using? Maybe a Topeak?
Looks like a Topeak Ratchet Rocket Lite, also sold as the Granite Rock n Roll Mini (and some other brands I can't remember). Great wee tools for carrying on the bike, just really easy to keep losing the 2mm bit!
@@RossFinnie I lost the 2mm bit a couple weeks ago. It can only have fallen out inside my bike bag, but I've not been able to find it. I have no idea where it went!
@@Durwood71 yup, mine has disappeared and reappeared a few times now! Wera do some really nice replacement bits, I just bought a bunch of them from RS components to keep as spares.
@@RossFinnie Thankfully, the smallest size on my bike is 2.5mm, so I don't really miss the 2mm, although the empty spot in my Ratchet Rocket case bugs me.
The bar/fork crown trick is actually surprisingly helpful. Unfortunately it's not so effective on my road bikes with narrow crowns.
@MediumFast broomhandles come in darn handy!
Just look down to the axle.
Just look down to the axle.
Fixing breaks by putting dirt into the rotors... Who would have thought 🤡
I am hoping I will never ever have to do so, but it is fascinating thing to know. ❤
Thanks, I am in the process of switching my Sram Code brakes with Derore XT brake, but Shimano mount doesn't work with the Sram shifter. So I am looking at Wolf Tooth's shifter mount. What are some other options?
Wolf Tooth probably provide the best solution for this
You left your bottle In forest 5:50. Neil come on :))))
that's exactly everything i tell my customers. And everyone responds with: "I've never been told that..."
Best Point: The last one. i can't tell how often ppl like to not read the instructions.
Why not !? :D
Hey Neil what about scuffing up new tyres when tyres are new they have a wax on them thats slippery dont just get new tyre and go flat out unless you want to die tyres will always get better after say about 20 k ride ..and yep if anyone tries to touch my rotors they get a slapping .I dont let anyone touch any part of my bike 👊
Thanks Neil. How about bar rotation? best location for wrist pain removal?
I guess that’s personal preference. Sweep/width can also make a massive difference to wrist pain.
Just keep adjusting until it feels right.
RTFM!🤘
Best hack ever - read the instructions 😂
So true though!
Hmm, I find bike “instruction” manuals to be almost useless…usually it’s 8 pages of obvious safety info, and almost no tech info.
Haaacks and bodgees!!! 🎶
Ah that Topeak Ratchet Rocket 😉👍 love the tool!
Great tips... except for the brake one that'ss a nah yeh nah
I was genuinely surprised when he suggested deliberately introducing water and dirt to your brake system since it goes against everything I've ever heard before.
Add on: If your brakes work well, avoid cleaning them. Wash out new tubeless tires with soapy water, they often have residue of some stuff from manufacturing that stops the sealant from sticking to them. Setting up gears with a tiny bit too much cable tension makes them shift quicker to lower gears which is often what you need in emergency situations. They will shift good enough into a faster gear anyway.
Indeed
... and now i want to see the fight between you Neil and Doddy about touching rotors
Doddy won't be happy! 😂
I've done the brake rotor contamination bit, even removed my pads and rubbed them on a step to remove any glaze on them. Does t always work but has more often than not.
@@johnh3095 one way to sometimes save contaminated pads is get a small tin of metho and dip the pads in it and while holding the pads outside with a pair of pliers set them on fire do this a few times as it will burn of the oil and leave your pads clean if there really bad like soaked in oil it want work if this is the case your rotor will be toast to .
@@Yoda-em5mt you can always recover rotors with good brake cleaner, however, like you say, badly contaminated pads are bin worthy only.
I've ridden on on contaminated pads after a seal failure and can attest to ever smokier stops the closer to he end of the ride I got. I had replacement pads, but no point fitting as they would also have been contaminated.
@@johnh3095 not always i had a front rotor same deal fork seal leaked down back of fork didnt notice straight away and for the life of me couldnt get the oil out of all the slots in that rotor tryed the brake cleaner set it on fire and it would get hot and re contaminate fresh pads ended up in the bin .live and learn ha ha .
5:49 Put your bottle back mate!
i had more punctures after I installed cush core then ever before..
That actually makes sense, because when you ride, you're pinching your tire between the insert and the ground, which seems like a guaranteed way to cause punctures.
Sick
Thanks!
To get the bars straight, I loosen up the stem bolts and stand in front of the bike facing rearward with the front wheel between my legs.
Then and lift the back wheel and balance it until it feels right, then put it down, tighten up the stem bolts and away you go
Yeah right Neil, your bike is one big hack! I mean what more can you do to perfection? Nice 🎥 by the way.🤙😎
When in spanish!!
I see often your videos but my level of english is low
Thanks
holy shit that water/dirt thing is the tits! what a great idea.
The tiny little plastic spacer that came with the headset is not a spacer, it's the crown race and it's been part of basically every headset since 1 1/8" steerers came out. If you mostly deal with assembled or partially assembled bikes you could mistakenly assume it's part of the fork because many versions are metal and look like a piece of the steerer tube when installed.
Hello there
Yo! 👋
Is this a nod to Bobo's sketch?
I don’t necessarily agree with your brake hack. If I had new pads that weren’t bedded in I would get on a good down hill and let the brakes drag for 45 seconds.
Huh. This isn’t Seth’s bike hacks?
Did you throw your water bottle on the trail? I tolerated that but then you said read the instructions.
mismatch drivetrains. whats your opinion?
If one manufacturer doesn't offer what you really want then try it. Just be prepared to live with the consequences, good or bad :-D
I had to mix GX and SX same brand when I lost a derailleur and there was limited stock. Kept the original shifter downgraded the derailleur as one level up was carbon and the current one I had was out of stock. Works perfectly fine as they were both designed for 12 speed of same brand. Could be some gotchas I’m not aware of with other setups. Don’t mix cable and wireless? 🤷♂️ 😝
I use: Sram mech with BBB wheels, KMC chain, Shimano casette, Blackspire chainring.... No problems!
Hey guys maybe someone here could help me, I kinda want to "get into" this sport but I have a big problem: I'm scared to go
I'm scared that I'll crash, not because I might hurt myself, I have experience in that, but because I don't want to break my bike (oh yeah, I also don't have one yet but i could get one). I just don't want to get a new bike, get excited and then break it on my first run
Is there like insurance for your bike? Or how likely is it for them to break in a crash? I don't want to throw the money in the bin if you k ow what I mean
Just buy a cheaper bike (pre-owned) and ride it until it dies... Probably best way to get into the sport without spending "too much" on equipment. Bikes are fairly strong now a days. Weak point probably will be derailleur hanger, tires and brake levers.
In my experience the bike breaks less frequently than the body 😂
@@dryzalmynelli9600 okay ill look into it, thank you
@@nothing9260 you can also buy frame protectors that are plastic covers, either clear, frosted or with patterns, that are meant to protect the paint on your bike from chipping. Mostly from rocks flying while you ride, but I assume it would also work to protect from falls as well. Think screen protector for your phone, but for a bike. Gmbn have some videos on them, last Neil added some on his new Kenevo SL build.
Personally I consider them a bit too much, nor do I use screen protectors for my phone, but if you really want to extend the pristine condition of your new bike, it might be worth it. Otherwise I'd second what's been mentioned: buy a second hand bike that you dare to ride to the limit. Then, when you know you both enjoy the sport and are more comfortable riding faster, you can buy the bike you really want. That's what I did, and I even ended up with an e-mtb. Loving it :)
Start easy, maybe even start with a lesson and rental package. An instructor can get you going with some confidence and answer all your questions. Rental bikes have a small insurance fee so no worries about breaking it...which is unlikely if you signed yourself up for the beginner level class.
Start easy, maybe even start with a lesson and rental package. An instructor can get you going with some confidence and answer all your questions. Rental bikes have a small insurance fee so no worries about breaking it...which is unlikely if you signed yourself up for the beginner level class.
2nd comment hopefully i get clout from this🤣
A clout would be better
🥈😂