48v Server Battery, Super High Amps
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ก.ย. 2024
- 48 volt server battery available from Battery Hookup. This video is kinda long because I start with tearing the battery down. Then re-building it with a new BMS from Daly. Charging to 4.2 volts per cell. Then I do a capacity test at about a 0.2C rate. Finally I use the battery in a real-world test. Guess what, I can weld with it! Wow.
The battery is originally made for server racks. It is capable of 100 amps discharge! Huge for such a small package. The steel case and insulating liner makes this a very safe enclosure.
Battery Hookup is going to sell the battery and BMS used in this video. Use coupon code "davidpoz" for 10% off.
Home Page: www.batteryhoo...
I think this battery is better suited to smaller projects. Maybe an electric go-cart, E-bike, portable power station, etc. Yes, it can also be used in powerwalls.
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If anybody gets one of these batteries, try to power it up, then jack it into your network (with DHCP active) & check to see if a new device shows up on your network. I’ll bet the BMS had enough intelligence to get on the network & it’s possible (just guessing, based on my experience with commercial APC UPS’s) that it has a web interface that will allow full control. You might even find a MAC address on there somewhere...
David your video are very interesting I am like you, playing with electronic and solar stuff. I wanted to advise you about something on lithium cells. I work in R&D with Lithium cells since 14 years now and i have read alot about the safety stuff. I see you have recharged a ultra low overdischarged battery to his original voltage. You SHOULD be VERY carefull!!!! Lithium cells are plating when remaining at very low voltage like that. Plating on lithium is really BAD !! Not because the cells can explode in your face or catch fire.. but because you can not PREDICT when or IF it will happen as the dendrite that grow on the electode due to metallic lithium plating might eventually perforate the separator and make direct short circuit with the other electrode!! I suggest you to read about lithium playing!! you have a nice garage and installation and i just dont want to see you have your garage burned down because of unstable battery like it hapenned to many others in the ebike/powerwall etc DIY community! i saw too many sad stories about that!!! Very important DO NOT RECHARGE OVERDISCHARGED LITHIUM CELLS !! ars.els-cdn.com/content/image/1-s2.0-S0378775316316998-fx1_lrg.jpg
I don’t think they were as discharged as David made out in the video. When he first put the charger across them he got 39V so they must have been close to that for the pack. So about 2.8V per cell. I’m guess the BMS was interfering with his initial multimeter readings.
@@mondotv4216 He measured the raw cell voltages and all were around 0.5V
@DIY Projects I think plating mainly occurs by charging too fast at low temperatures as the ions find it more difficult to migrate.
I don't think plating happens if the cells are dormant because there's no source of electrons to make them precipitate, and that takes energy.
@@mondotv4216 i saw less than 10V when he measured it that is why i said these have been overdischarged. But at 2.8V/ cell i agree these woyld be ok with a low C rate to bring them to 3 0v or so and up.
@@ahaveland i have found many studies and documents about that. Just search about overdischarge and plating you will see. That is also why the best made BMS have the function to permanently cut charging possibility if overdischarge happen.
I bought two of these before they sold out. I took one apart so far. SO MANY SCREWS! The cells were all very low but all charged to 4.2 and capacity tested at 2000 mah per cell. Awesome to see you use the case and fuse. The BMS in this thing is pretty cool it's too bad it is proprietary.
Qq71t is rr3
Nice job welding those pallets together David.
I've never seen that done before. You put my old high school welding shop teacher to shame with your mad wood welding skills. Lol
Keep up the great videos
And the great projects.
Wondering if they even teach welding or wood shop in any schools anywhere these days.
Turn 55 tomorrow and I have to say it's nice to see younger people with good practical skill sets and an eager to learn nature, and then using those qualities to teach and help others just for the sake of sharing knowledge and helping people to attain real independance.
Thanks David- I could not have successfully built my system without the TH-cam solar community to learn from. You and probably 4 other sol brothers are in large part responsible for my achievement of living fully off grid with two rental units and our home. You are a fine example and a truly generous person to share your life and experience with us all.
For the record I am hereby claiming the term "sol-brother" as my own intellectual property !
But you are all welcome to use it any time you like free of charge as long as it's in good spirits and with a willingness to help others 😎🌞
LOL, I had a piece of steel on top of the pallets. The pallets are on my fire-pit waiting for another burn day.
Ahhh, I miss my old fire pit back in michigan.used to burn scrap logs left offer from building log homes, we had some real doozies.
To hot to burn anything down here in St. John.
Instead of the BMS needing some proprietary signal it might have just shut off because of the low battery voltage.
Would be worth checking the system with normally charged batteries.
If the BMS would need some proprietary signal, this might be available by HP.
It would be a great benefit: even more power at lower cost and less hassle.
One should try, seems like a massive amount of work if it could be used as it came.
If they are selling them, it would pay to find how to use plug and play so to speak.
These are designed to give breathing room if the main power supply fails to ensure the server can shut down safely. It will have a monitor that turns it on if the power drops below 45v, and off at 48v. Will have an ok output and and an alarm output signal. Will have a 5v input that enables charging by external control to prevent the pack from drawing too much power too quick.
Yes seems like a huge waste of time and money, worth trying to use as is to plug and play.
Man I like hangin' out with you. This was really fun. Thanks Dan.
that little multi-tool saw,is one of the best tools ever.
Great project David, I like how you showed modifying the server battery into a portable power source.
Thanks.
Rambly explanation warning: That massive BMS board is probably a computer in its own right for monitoring the pack state from outside using a protocol called SNMP over ethernet. The idea being that you can manage the battery pack remotely, check charge/discharge state, pack temperatures etc. Probably not needed for non-server use. Most servers also have a management controllers on so they can be powered on or off, rebooted, check fans, temperatures and all that stuff. This technology has saved me on several occasions from having to make a hour round trip into work at midnight just to press a power button.
Good explanation. I was just wondering what the network connection and all the other bulky stuff were doing out there, now I think I know.
My brother and I look at your videos all the time and have learned a lot. Keep up the good work, very nice video. I learned something today and every time I come here.
Whoa.... I don't have time to watch this whole thing right now but I am coming back! Those numbers are crazy!
Yeah, sorry about how long it is. I think this ended up being my longest video ever.
@@DavidPozEnergy Sorry? Don't be sorry! I'll get to them! That's the beauty of TH-cam University!!
Definitely a cool repurposing build. I'm glad you put in a circuit breaker in line before the Anderson SB50 connector, if you need to take one offline in a multiple power pack configuration on a bus. The SB connectors are not rated to be disconnected under load and you'll have a very interesting arc show (don't ask how I know). Anyone who has multiple voltages running amongst the work shop, I followed the defacto suggested Anderson Power color code on the SB connectors as follows:
Yellow = 12 volts nominal
Red = 24 volts nominal
Grey = 36 volts nominal
Blue = 48 volts nominal
Green = 72 volts nominal
The nice thing is that they will only mate with its color and amperage group so you can't connect a blue SB50 with a yellow SB50. It has save me some unintended letting out of the pre-installed smoke from my equipment. Plus, I use the Anderson Powerpole 15/30/45 for my 12 volt Amateur radio equipment and appliances up to 45 amps. They're a bit pricy, but the connectors are genderless and saves me from having female/male connectors all over the place.
I did not know there is a color code. Does that mean I should be using blue color? The Amazon page where I bought them says 600v.
@@DavidPozEnergy It is kinda a yes and no. If you are using the SB series and have equipment running at different voltages (i.e. chargers, batteries, widgets, etc.), they suggest using the color coded shells that Anderson Power Products in that format to prevent accidental connection with the wrong equipment rated voltage. It is not mandatory that you do it that way.
If you decide to go with that format, all you need to do is purchase the connector shell of that color and switch it out. If you don't have any plans to have different battery pack voltages floating around using SB50 connectors, then what you have is fine.
In my case, I have 12, 24, 36, and 48 volt equipment and battery packs on the SB50 platform. I just went with their suggested color coding for safety reasons.
Wikipedia has a better explanation on this subject en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anderson_Powerpole
Thanks Felax Chow, I appreciate it. I do have a 12v battery in my garage, so it might be worth it.
Just a note to say that I have been using inline heat shrink solder connectors for over 20 years and they certainly make life easier. I enjoyed the video.
Just what I've been looking for to run an induction hob instead of using a gas burner for camping and shows.
One those would power an induction hob for less than 5 mins before needing a recharge. Gas burner would be far less in size and weight to transport.
We use that heat shrink in an OEM DOT industrial application up to 10ga for over 10 years, love em! Of course we get them by the hundreds which lowers the cost drastically..
I've been checking out this channel for a few days now and it's already one of my favorites
Your craftsmanship is improving love your video's.
Tip 4 you, when crimping leaves those sharp wings, you can rotate the wire in the crimper, and it will smash it in line with the rest.
Thanks. That would probably be quicker. I was hitting them on my grinder for half a sec, but I like your idea. I'll try it next time. Thank you.
The Daly BMS is really good at keeping the pack in balance. I have one on a 36V pack and after 6 months abuse I took the pack apart and all the parallel cell groups were perfectly balanced. The only Issue with it is you cannot monitor them live once the battery is sealed up. You need something like an ANT BMS along with the VBMS App to do that.
I really like you usage at the end!
Excellent video!!! Shame I live in Australia - the shipping is more than the cost of the batteries!
David, you can use a buck inverter running into a resistor for a constant current load for the battery.
Thanks again for a great video.
Thank you, I never thought of that. I'll have to try it next time.
@@DavidPozEnergy That would make a constant power load, not constant current. The buck converter will draw more amps as the battery runs lower.
You would need to be careful with cells that have discharged that low. Initially I would bring them up to 3v using a low and limited current - say 50ma per cell or 200ma per block of 4. Not sure how battery life is affected by a full discharge but a sympathetic initial charge will make the best of it.
I charged them at 100ma for the pack, or 25ma per cell.
David - That pack is an e-bikers dream
Stick welding with DC is heavenly
Man I glad your doing something with battery hookup. I was scared about prices being so low. But I am going to use them for my batteries on my B.I.G. off grid setup I’m going to build
Sounds good. I did visit their warehouse in PA. They are totally legit and the employees seem to like talking about batteries as much as the owner. If you use coupon code "davidpoz" it helps out my channel. Thanks.
I dealt with BH and they seem like decent folks.
wow im shocked that the cells came back after being that low. Shame it not a chevy volt battery per KWH price. But a cool build video. Your getting way more comfortable with the whole battery built stuff !
Hi Terry, Yeah, the price is high per kwh for me to use this in a large powerwall build. Maybe E-bike or something?
Might fit in a golf cart? I did a golf cart with one chevy volt 48v segment it pull wheelies now.
Chevy Volt batteries make the bet ebike packs. 100X better than this. I measured thousands of amps.
I'd like to remake this battery for a motorcycle build, an all electric DC powered, half shell body that gives a large windshield while still leaving the driver seat open to the air. That has side ejecting slots that you can hot swap battery packs.
I wish you had more videos regarding 12 volt battery systems because every RV has one. My solar system is also 12V - only. The search continues...
I just posted two videos on 12v: th-cam.com/video/6Ai5IRQbLcc/w-d-xo.html and th-cam.com/video/sPZwL1z_qxI/w-d-xo.html
Sold out :(
Anyway, BMS is the most interesting part there, high quality worth cracking manufacturer comunication protocols...
yep battery hookup said they came from a (single) hospital. How many of these could one hospital need ? maybe they will get used ones from similar sources for $30 apiece !
And he can't see this Why.
They look like UPS battery pack modules.
Great video I like how you break it down to even the soldering. Lovin the details
Cool stuff! Can't wait to hear more details on the Sunny Island Inverter.
Haha, yeah, lots of stuff I have to get to.
Are you going to use your generator input on your service panel or something different? The Sunny Island is too big to go on a circuit breaker like the Sunny Boy grid tie inverter. It has to have a supply side connection.
I don't have all the details worked out. Right now I've just got one outlet (duplex) wired into the inverter. I'm using that for my space heater for my load. When I get to the big wiring feel free to let me know where I screw up. LOL
David you're doing better than the vast majority of people even just doing that lol. Nothing wrong with using your awesome inverter off grid in your garage for the time being.
@@stalwart56k you should be able to be configure to it be off grid setup with split phase configuration support on the second unit (for usa witch I believe he is going to be doing) not requiring grid tie to function (still might have 1-5 minutes on time)
mr david,,to the rescue again,,,im working on building another solar rack,,but my uni strut need to be welded back together,,,but our outside outlet dont work,,and i was stressing,like how am i gonna weld them back together?...my hunny was like use your inverter,,like that guy in that vid you showed me,,i was like ooh ya,,ill go watch his vid again,,,and i did,,im gonna try tomorrow to give it a try,,thank you mr david for your vid,2 thumbs up
Almost backpack sized battery. Nice rework on the innards. I like how you reused the OEM fuse, and squeezed the anderson, dali and breaker into the original enclosure. :)
Thank you. It was a little tetris puzzle.
With your persistence and progress I have decided to subscribe to your channel . Please keep um coming , Thanks .
Thanks for subscribing.
Whoaa! Look at that battery module construction and complexity. I bet they also use that in space station. That shape is perfect for e scooter...
Excellent, I need 12 of these for bike trailers, and an outdrive waterjet taken from a waverunner I'm putting on my 12ft plastic bassboat. I use AGNI/Lynch high power DC motors exclusively, they are amazing really.
Typically a red Anderson connector would be for 24v and blue would be 48v, but it's just common use in the industry. It could do any voltage, it's just the colors prevent you from connecting to the wrong voltage charger. Those small SB 75 connectors are rated for 75 amps max I believe, I don't know of any SB 50 connectors.
Also, the colors are used for Warehouses with multiple voltage equipment, each color has a different key in the middle that won't allow a red to connect to a blue. Red is 24v, grey is 36, and blue is 48v in common use. Though SB 175 is often used on low power 24v equipment. There are alternate colors for different capacity equipment for the same voltage, yellow, green and whatnot. That way you don't plug a small Rider pallet jack into a charger set to 1000AH and damage the battery.
Thank you for helping me out with the color coding.
Those heat shrink self solder connectors will only give satisfactory results on absolutely pristine copper wire. If it has the tiniest amount of tarnish the will not give a solid connection. I had to chase down a bad sensor feed on a truck. They had used one of those type of connectors when they spiced a wire. Even on a low draw sensor, it didn't work because the old copper wire had a bit of tarnish on it. Was not worth the effort to mess with only to have bad connections.
HEY GREAT VIDEO, JUST PURCHASED FROM BATTERY HOOKUP LLC 4 7.9 KWH BATTERIES WITH TAXES AND SHIPPING 11.13 CENTS PER WATT PENNIES... YOUR VIDEOS ARE A GREAT HELP....
Itd probably be good as an E-bike replacement at an affordable cost. ive never used an e-bike but from what ive seen it may just work. thanks for another great video . take care
Those low melt temp solder connectors work but not as good as normal solder and heat shrink. Great video.
David, Please stress test the low melt heatshrink intensely. I work in the car audio world, and sometimes they're bad enough that just 120*f can melt them (inside car, summer day) and I'm sure wires can get warmer than that.
BMS sense wires really need to be equal length and connection type.
Using solder extensions on some leads and not others will introduce errors in the balance.
Yes, you are right. All the sense wires had the ring terminals soldered on with the tiny extensions which I cut off the original BMS. The difference was some I used the low-temp solder heat shrink things. And some I used a soldering iron and normal solder.
I had 8 battery modules for a 40kv UPS that we decommissioned a few years back. Made great battery packs for little electric go karts.
So this would work on a golf cart
I figured the welder would be pushing the limit of the inverter. Better to have a portable direct current stick welder generator to do your remote welding (MOSA welder) to avoid blowing out your inverter. Anyways, thanks for sharing!
im not sure these are good for large power walls, that price is ok ish, but with cells starting at 0.5v will prove to not provide a ton of cycles.I like the other ones you have much much better.
I totally agree. That's why I wanted to demonstrate it on something other than a powerwall. Hey, maybe it would make a good "gas can" for your Leaf?
@@DavidPozEnergy could yes :D goos video as always
Thank you for showing me how to do this.
The heat shrink sleeves work fine for low amperage wires. I tried them on a 1500watt AC brushless motor, and the low temp solder melts after a number of hours of operation in summer temperatures.
Thanks. Maybe I can set up some kind of experiment with different loads, and wire sizes to find out where that line is.
@@DavidPozEnergy The other piece is, I used them in my better.bike PEBL - and being a road vehicle, there is some vibration.
Because I also had a water issue with the original crimped (and thoroughly DOUBLE heat shrinked) connections - I ended up crimping sleeves AND regular solder, with heat shrink over them.
You should make a bench stand for the lug tool.
I'll give them 20 dollars per piece. 60 is just to much. Why is battery hookup so high on used stuff?
Love your channel David! Keeps us updated!
Aaron Battery Hookup got knocked back when they tried to register as a Charity.
Happy to see this durable battery power backup.
Anyone from my Country: India?
I AM FORM HIMACHAL PRADESH THESE ARE INTRESTING AND KNOWLEDGEFUL THINGS BUT NOT ABAILABLE IN INDIA.AND IF WE BUY FROM CHINES SITES THEY ARE VERY COSTLY.BUT HE IS DOING GOOD WORK.AND IT IS ALSO GOOD SOMEONE IS ALSO INTERESTING FROM INDIA.
WOW! Awesome video, thanks so much. Would be perfect for my system.
Thanks for watching.
Did you hookup the fan in some way? - e.g. turn fan on when battery on or just leave it off. Great video and I LOVE battery hookup - have purchased over 5,000 cells from them in several purchases over the last 2 years and all have been exactly as advertised and great quality for a fair price.
I did not do anything with the little fan. I have a tiny temp. sensor with relay that can fit into the area, but I need to find a tiny (1 amp) DC-DC converter 48-12 v.
@@DavidPozEnergy there are many on AliExpress
m.aliexpress.com/wholesale/dc-dc-step-down.html?categoryId=400103&channel=direct&searchType=mainSearch
@Paul Rocco Catinella, I only have this one battery and I'm not posting it for sale. I'm glad it is the type of thing you are looking for. It's good to know there is interest in this type of build. Thanks for watching.
You did a good thing by trickle charging it the first time! People need to know that on Lithium cells below 0.9V, NEVER apply more than 0.1C charge current (that's 0.2A if it's a cell rated at 2Ahr capacity) - otherwise cell damage will occur. Being a somewhat conservative EE, I move that point to 1.5V, then gradually increase charge current until the cell reaches 2.5V at which point full charge current can be safely applied.
Doing a full charge at the very low reduced charge rate was not a good idea though, as that can lead to internal lithium metal plating... damaging the battery.
Reaching 4.2V is never a good indication of a full charge... that's why you have to use a "normal charge rate", so that as the voltage-limited 4.2V/cell is reached, you can monitor for the reduction in charge current until it drops to 10% of the full charge rate used... which will never happen at a trickle charge. It's that drop to 10% that defines a full charge.
Thank you for defining the 10% drop for full charge. I didn't know that number. I'd love to describe this in an upcoming video. Is there a article or something I can reference for it?
@@DavidPozEnergy I've studied battery technologies for over 20 years, but BatteryUniversity.com is a great place to find information about the care and use of various types of batteries. I won't say they are 100% on everything, but darn close.
From the numbers, these must (originally) be 1.6ah cells and, due to the UPS usage, I would expect them to be the sort of high-discharge cells you get in power drills etc which can deliver 20a short-term. Their 100a fuse is consistent with that sort of spec and intended use. The only real problem for me is that battery deals only really work if you live within the US and I don't :(
Closer to the end of the video I post the data sheets. At 27:26 in the video.
Thanks Mac M
Nice job
I believe that longer board is just all since to send data back to the UPS it came out of so it can keep track of every cell. and then it can turn off the battery if there is a problem. Nice Nice.
Thank you for the demo. Your re-engineering technic is applaudable and admirable. Good to observe the successful culmination of the project. Looking forward to your future projects. Have a good day.
Thanks for watching.
I have that same dc to dc booster, when I try to charge a battery it shuts down, but I was using an atx power supply. Cool video!
David, you're a good guy and I like what you do. But please don't buy from Amazon unless there's no other way. I have mostly kicked the habit myself and now get most things from eBay, where I'm supporting regular people who need the money, instead of the richest guy on the planet who doesn't. Anyway, thanks for another helpful video!
heya that is a real nice rebuilt of the server battery pack
finally new video to watch 😃
Yeah, This took a lot longer to make then I thought
Awesome work David and not just for showing me how to remove labels :-) You really need to get a Dremel for Xmas - hope your wife reads these comments!
When welding use both hands and hold left and right corners while you watch the melting of the electrode .
SCOTT from N.H. Seabrook Welding School.
Could you link to your website, I'm looking for a welding class.
I DO NOT have a website but hold your corners using both hands when you weld up start at the bottom and go up . Foreman Hume Pipe and went to Seabrook Welding School 30 years back when I was a lad I also made Nashua Wood Stoves too .
Make a portable power supply for 120/220v AC. Put 4 or more of those in parallel and add an inverter into a case on wheels.
There already is an Item out there
As you've proposed
I like how u think 🤓Noice 👍
by far more screws than battery cells
Those cells are rated 10C. So 10x 2500mah = 25 amp draw per cell max. You would be doing well to get 3-4 mins at that draw if your wiring and electronics could handle it. However you can also charge it very fast. So you could do a 40 amp charge and have a full battery in 15 mins. Then you could just swap these packs in the field like a dewalt power-tool battery pack.
I wouldn't use that inverter with any sensitive electronics like an inverter welder. I could hear the noise in your audio from the voltage spikes on the generated sinewave (RF noise).
Thanks. I need to find a light portable 48v inverter for the field. Maybe a low-frequency 48v model or something? Around 2000w to 3000 watts.
@@DavidPozEnergy Check out Giandel. They are cost effective and reliable and clean. I use a 1600w with my portable 26v packs. They can handle the max and min voltages that a 7S or 14S Li-Ion pack needs.
They are cool, but don't have 48v pure sine wave inverters. They have lots of 12v and 24v.
Going to build one for camping,my friends bring their little 10,000 milliamp battery Bank,,, I'll say,"hold my beer,let me show you a real battery"LoL
Great video and God bless you and your family!!!!
That low of voltage would cause dendrite formation in the cells making them a fire hazard. too risky.
It certainly could yet the difference betwixt "would" and "could" can be considerable.
i would be very reluctant using cells that have been discharged that far down
As long as the cells were gradually discharged, and not 0V, they will be fine most usually. They would just need to be slowly recharged, about 50mA or less till they reach 3V.
@@Android-ng1wn but when he measured the cells directly, they were .5v...
He must have partially charged off camera first...
@SuperVstech. You got that right. After I pulled all the circuit boards I put a charger on them. It was an ISDT Q8. I'll probably show it in an upcoming video. I had over 20 hours of video footage and some stuff got cut.
@@korishan
"most usually"
discharging cells that low they will take irreparable damage.
also my experience from laptop batteries. i could them to work again, but they did not keep the charge for long.
@@ursodermatt8809 On our forum, there are plenty of folks who have recovered low voltage cells and are having no issues with them. Granted, there are other factors involved, like IR for instance. If the low V cell has high IR, then it won't matter either way.
Nice, but I like the 110AH @ 48V pack I made out of $200 worth of Interstate "blem" batteries a bit better, even if it does weigh more. I use a telco charger/power supply to charge it.
Those cells might work for a e bike battery. Thank video👍🏻
I like how he gets metal shards inside a large 300wh lithium battery (because the battery has good air flow). Real safe...
No need to be sarcastic to impress everyone. Instead why not pull on your big boy pants and say what you mean and mean what you say. Being supportive is always a good thing. Give it a try.
*Most complicated BMS 👍🏻👍🏻❤️😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂*
You killed it
Thanks.
since there is so much of electronic boards in that awesome module i wander if there is "battery overcharge protection " build in ??
oh , and "over discharge "protection as well ?
I bet it's some form of power supply. Haven't gotten all the way to the end of the video yet (yep, committing that internet sin), but it could be an inverter, if server racks don't have a 48 volt DC bus. I don't see how that big long complex board could be just a BMS.
Great idea David.
great video and nice build. esp that you can fit the BMS and circuit breaker neatly in the original housing. Out of curiosity, did you consider just use the whole module as a whole , since all key modules are there including fuse/BMS etc. Given it's for server rack, i suppose it's heat dissipation and safety features and BMS functions are all pretty good. it's just a matter of reading and pulling out data ....could be extremely difficult without knowing original part number and the software talking to it. but if in case you do find it out, it's going to be super cool
I was unable to get voltage at the terminals. The BMS kept the circuit open, even after a charge. I think the BMS needs a computer communication with the larger server rack it was in.
I can solidly vouch for Solder Seal connectors. Use controlled heat from a rework station
Shame these can't be exported from the US. I love this battery set-up !! Thanks for sharing this video though.
I recently built a similar battery from scratch: th-cam.com/video/iKEYDNvNRGQ/w-d-xo.html To make it high amp you would use these cells: batteryhookup.com/collections/green-friday-weekend-deals/products/ryobi-op4026v-36v-batteries-for-parts-repair?rfsn=3333666.ca06e9
Thanks for the great video! The Google log-rhythm is working. I didn’t know server racks could take batteries, let alone 48 volt affordable modular. Thanks for the great video!
Too bad they use Phillip’s and not torx, machine screws, that’s a sign that they don’t know what quality is
I thought you said aluminum but no, you said steel, in the first half of the video.
Another good use for the battery packs would be electric motorcycle and snowmobile. Search TH-cam for 48 volt battery, I think.
They might be for UPS Racks instead.
I agree Torx would be better, but Phillips are okay for things like this
Yes, server racks will hold a UPS. The rack mounted UPS is designed for it. You might get something more heavy duty if you by the rack from the UPS provider like Schneider, but unless you're building the full rack to hold just the batteries, it really isn't necessary. A lead acid setup can weigh over a ton in a full rack.
I would like to a really good inverter that could a 120 / 240 set up ,& I could see the battery packs for the severs would really work good , & I like the breaker & the battery jumpers / connectors , I have them in my wheelchair , thanks. Again , Don
So I really appreciate your contribution to solar power. I just wish you weren't taking sponsorships because it makes you appear partial towards certain companies. I do enjoy seeing the interesting batteries, but how do we know we will get the same quality? How can I trust these results knowing they sent you possibly a prestested hand selected battery that may or may not represent the average quality?
I'm not sponsored. I get free products to test and review, but I say whatever I want about it.
I bet the would be cheaper to just buy the UPS and get to keep all the BMS they have built in.
I was glad to see you reuse the case and some of the components. It's too bad that 95% of the engineering of that battery was just tossed out. I can just see the poor engineers watching in horror because they probably spent years designing that entire system to work together perfectly. I would love to find out more about the battery's intended operation. Sometimes systems like that can be turned on by simply closing one circuit with a jumper.
BTW... the max continuous discharge current for that unit is 25A (4-second max current 43A) so 20A is kind of low. You probably want at least 30A, if not 50A (remember the engineered fuse is 100A).
As a proponent of solar and other alt energy, compounding the efficiency losses was PAINFUL. I cringed watching you charge the battery using ANOTHER battery (already charged via a charger with losses and wasting cycles) using a boost DC-DC converter (15% loss) then invert the 48VDC to 120VAC (15% loss) then convert the 120VAC back down to 22VDC in the welder (more loss) then use the power to actually do some welding.
While all of this was doable! In the end, it was a long road of power loss to take 48VDC (or 24VDC for half of the cells in series) and make the SAME 24VDC (technically 21.7VDC at the welder).
Definitely not something I would do when I value every Watt I produce with an off-grid power system, but if you are just buying grid power for a few cents a watt the inefficiency are cheap. You did show the possibilities of out-of-the-box thinking and re-purposing these valuable batteries!
Keep learning, keep trying and keep building!
All that is true but its also all free to him no matter what the efficiency since he charges the battery he used to charge it with Solar. We are only talking about 5 cents or so of electricity at my local grid rates anyway.
there's a flat side of that anderson connector, and recesses in the other side for screw heads... I'm burning inside, watching you install it the opposite way around!
LOL, As I said in the video, this was my first time using these connectors. But I really like them. I think I'll use more of them in the future.
I assume that outdoor stuff was just for illustrative purposes. I would have just used a nice thick extension cord.
Yep, exactly. If I had an E-Bike I would have used that.
@DavidPoz - By the way, if you ever have a large AC load to use outside (like more than 1000 watts), and you have 2 extension cords that will reach, it may be better to use both of them in parallel by plugging one into each of the 2 receptacles in the same outlet. You would need a Y adapter or equivalent on the load side but those are easy to make. The idea is it would reduce the resistance since the electricity would have 2 paths to take. You can measure this difference too by taking say a 1500W heater outside, trying it with both extension cords solo first, then trying it with them combined. Use a Kill-A-Watt meter or similar. I suspect the difference could be 100 watts or more.
That would be a fun experiment.
@DavidPoz - Try it, it is very simple. The heavier the load, the more difference you might see (as far as watts consumption). For example, if each extension cord separately is 1350 watts, putting them in parallel (sharing the load) might give you 1500 watts. I wold expect maybe a 10% difference. Sometimes people go out and buy an expensive 100 ft thick extension cord but if they have 2 thinner ones, that might have the same results but at no additional cost (except maybe the custom Y adapter to make it work on the load side).
Go for the pure sign inverter make a difference
Circuit breakers are rated to trip at the correct power for voltage and current... so in your case the 20 amp breaker is rated for 120 Vdc... P=EI or X=120 * 20 So that breaker would trip at 2.4kW that's a lot of heat... But your system is set for 48 volts nominal so your breaker wont trip at 20 amps... it would I think trip around 50 amps.... you can check the math on that. When I was in the Air force people tried using automotive breakers (13.8Vdc nominal) on systems that were rated for 36 volts. so basically you've got an expensive switch... with limited protection. "Circuit breakers are routinely sized to limit thermal energy related damage to the electrical insulation material and not the copper wire. This being the case we can say that a circuit breaker limits the temperature of the connected-protected wire's insulation materials." Googled it.
Sending out a battery to a reviewer and they send a mostly dead one... great job, marketing department :)
Maybe they did not want to be deceptive about what a customer would purchase. I mean if they sent him a really good battery then everyone would purchase and get this they would not be so happy. Although I guess for $60 you should not expect that!
Tom (owner of Battery Hookup) said they had one pallet of these batteries. He gave me the one on top. No testing or anything went into it.
Yeah we openly let people know the batteries are discharged. If we open them up it won't be an unused battery anymore. These are in the unoped boxes and all likely need to be woken up but they all will test at or above capacity once woken up.
As far as "marketing": this totally worked for me!
Cool little battery
1.3K+! Thanks for sharing
its got a usb port on it
that thing must make an amazing power bank lol
The exercise of the year to make this viable. :)))
@davidpoz They were sold out when I got to it. But I bit the bullet and picked up some power tool packs and a small phone charger. I figure I'll use the batteries in them to rebuild a weak lion pack and rebuild some bad nicad packs into lithium versions. I've got several old packs that were recycled.
very good
I liked this video a lot because you repurposed a commercial battery for DIYer's portable power source. The tear-down was important because of how proprietary the pack was and you bypassed it all like a surgeon. Great!
What are your thoughts about combining 3 of these packs for a 144v power pack in a EV conversion project for a DC motor?
that BMS is like a Time Machine
I'm not a computer guy. Do you mean it's old-fashioned?
"took 3 days to charge" O.O that is some patience lolol
Will Do!