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I did a bit of work for a company in Nottingham that sells prepainted 50mm metal soldiers. They used enamels. I was surprised at how thick / messy paint jobs was the standard. I didn’t stick it out long as it was quite smelly and headache inducing.
I painted models with Enamel paints back in the 80s, we used to thin the paint with spirits, in the same way you would thin Acrylic with water, a lot of us still use them now as they have different properties, reactivation is particularly useful.
@@SnakeWorksStudio Battlezone Miniatures sell the coat d'Arms Paints that use those pots. I think they are the closest to the old GW paints you can get as they are the original manufacturers of the paints from back in the day.
30:30 Gold over browns, and also other colours, works really well... especially if you're using one of those golds that doesn't cover super-well, in which case you can use that property to your advantage. A caramel or ochre undercoat can give you a nice standard gold, a more yellow base can give you a much brighter gold, and a burnt umber or sienna can give you a more antique gold look. You can also get interesting effects using a green, blue or red base... 😉
Plaka was a wonderful range of paints and came in 50mm glass jars,had a number of colours till the gw acrylics came out but still use a goblin green plaka to do orc skin that I bought in 1983 and still going strong,great vid again and lovely seeing a youngster talking about stuff I have and still have from the start.
I used to love using white undercoat, I would apply a thinned down dark oil paint wash over the whole model afterwards, that would naturally give it a Zenithally highlighted look when the model was stood upright to dry, then I would varnish the model, before applying the paint in thin layers, mixed with a little bit of washing up liquid to make it run off of the highest areas and only mildly staining them, it worked pretty much exactly how Contrast paint works now. This gave it a smoother look than the other common technique of dry brushing a light colour over a black undercoat.
1st edition book had that small painting tutorial, but for me, the key was that thin blue painting guide from the 89. In just a bunch of pages, very useful paint tips and beautiful pics. I know there´s another in red, but the blue still being so special for me. My first view to all those amazing miniatures.
@@SnakeWorksStudio Yeah, it´s one of my hobby treasures. I love the design style and the paint finish. All those checkered shields, the squats and orks uniforms, the original metal and plastic titans, the classic patriarch with that giger-esque throne... wonderful.
ABC Brushes in the UK is my go to online store for cheap and good quality synthetic brushes. Never had a bad batch from them, and they also sell seconds at trade shows (like Salute) where you can mix and match the different sizes.
The weight of choice for my friends and I were fender washers. Add to that magnetic mats added to the bottom of a container and you had the perfect mini transport
I've been painting a lot more stuff in this comfy older style. It's what I learned on back when I stared (2nd ed days) and while more modern techniques are faster and sometimes even look better, there's something to be said about good old fashioned mini painting. To me, I find it more mindful and relaxing.
@@SnakeWorksStudio Yeah, that's some of it. Also I find it way easier to turn off my brain and just enjoy the process. Probably because of familiarity, but who knows. :)
I also found myself coming back to it. Love the brighter contrasting colours. The grimdork modern colour schemes don’t do it for me. Too dark haha. Enchanted blue never died for me.
I started painted models with Enamel paints back in the 80s, we used to thin the paint with spirits, in the same way you would thin Acrylic with water, a lot of us still use them now as they have different properties, reactivation is particularly useful, they are a staple of historic vehicle modellers still.
I'm a fan of using bases to compliment the mini at the risk of them standing out against the tabletop. When this happens, I pretend that they are carrying their native environment with them like an overpowering aura (or if I played Emperor's Children, like an overpowering cheap perfume that you can't escape LOL)
It still leaves out decals (wet, stick on with Micro Set, form with Micro Sol, and blend with Lahmian Medium) but as it includes drybrushing it's better than the basic "how to draw an owl" guide of 2nd edition.
I remember getting the eavy metal book as a kid in the earaly 90s that had painting and modeling tips. I believe the last name of the gentleman featured was pronounced (Mic-Vay) Very helpful book. That is where I learned to do conversions. I need to go through and try to do all of the scratch built stuff they had instructions for. My favorite as a kid was the plaster dome house cast from styrfoam balls in a bucket with sand
@@SnakeWorksStudio I may still have the book in storage, as well as my old rogue trader book. Sadly the majority of my collection has been packed away untouched for 25 years
I have always had good luck buying from Dick Blick in the US. They've been in the mail-order art supplies business for 113 years so they know what they are doing. I've never got a bad brush from them and their prices are pretty good. They usually carry Kolinsky Sable brushes.
@@SnakeWorksStudio Yes, I think so. It was very smooth - like sponge mix - so didn't really give you a lot of texture. This was long before the days of 40k. I got White Dwarf back then because I collected loads of Citadel D&D figures.
You do have to be a little careful with your paints. 'Acrylic' refers to the binder that holds the pigment together and on the surface of your model, while the _solvent_ -- the liquid that carries the pigment and binder and lets it flow onto the model -- can be different fluids. Water-based acrylics are all evenly miscible, but the Tamiya acrylics are alcohol-based, and while they can mostly be thinned with water and mixed with water-based acrylics, they work better with a water/alcohol mix for cleaning. And some acrylics are solvent-based and need white spirit for thinning and cleaning, which can be a pain, but solvent-based acrylics will usually dry hard faster than water-based acrylics.
Way back when I was painting minis (before the internet), I would dry-brush almost everything. I'll be getting back into painting minis with the benefits of videos like this one.
Black is still a crappy undercoat, and a reason now we see dull paints trying to get good coverage while losing any and all vibrancy. Go look at an Army Painter red, which will cover just fine, but will look quite muted. Unless I am painting a miniature that is 90% black, I'd pick basically anything else
To see more Oldhammer themed videos, check out the playlist HERE: th-cam.com/play/PLHkZacvv71Xm8ypo_jOY6rIoTZRcxUueN.html
Join the Oldhammer + Hobby community on Discord: discord.gg/CesP6QbPBU
Glad you enjoyed it!
I did a bit of work for a company in Nottingham that sells prepainted 50mm metal soldiers. They used enamels. I was surprised at how thick / messy paint jobs was the standard. I didn’t stick it out long as it was quite smelly and headache inducing.
I painted models with Enamel paints back in the 80s, we used to thin the paint with spirits, in the same way you would thin Acrylic with water, a lot of us still use them now as they have different properties, reactivation is particularly useful.
Thick is faster and you barely notice from a distance. Given the lack of fume hoods they must've opted for money over quality.
I remember those round pots, before the hexpots. I was there, Gandalf. 3000 years ago.
Some of mine are still liquid! They must have been good. Also i never knew you were on here!
@@SnakeWorksStudio Battlezone Miniatures sell the coat d'Arms Paints that use those pots. I think they are the closest to the old GW paints you can get as they are the original manufacturers of the paints from back in the day.
30:30 Gold over browns, and also other colours, works really well... especially if you're using one of those golds that doesn't cover super-well, in which case you can use that property to your advantage. A caramel or ochre undercoat can give you a nice standard gold, a more yellow base can give you a much brighter gold, and a burnt umber or sienna can give you a more antique gold look.
You can also get interesting effects using a green, blue or red base... 😉
10:18, those MullerRice pot buildings, used to have one.
Plaka was a wonderful range of paints and came in 50mm glass jars,had a number of colours till the gw acrylics came out but still use a goblin green plaka to do orc skin that I bought in 1983 and still going strong,great vid again and lovely seeing a youngster talking about stuff I have and still have from the start.
I used to love using white undercoat, I would apply a thinned down dark oil paint wash over the whole model afterwards, that would naturally give it a Zenithally highlighted look when the model was stood upright to dry, then I would varnish the model, before applying the paint in thin layers, mixed with a little bit of washing up liquid to make it run off of the highest areas and only mildly staining them, it worked pretty much exactly how Contrast paint works now.
This gave it a smoother look than the other common technique of dry brushing a light colour over a black undercoat.
1st edition book had that small painting tutorial, but for me, the key was that thin blue painting guide from the 89. In just a bunch of pages, very useful paint tips and beautiful pics. I know there´s another in red, but the blue still being so special for me. My first view to all those amazing miniatures.
That was a good one. Do you still have it?
@@SnakeWorksStudio Yeah, it´s one of my hobby treasures. I love the design style and the paint finish. All those checkered shields, the squats and orks uniforms, the original metal and plastic titans, the classic patriarch with that giger-esque throne... wonderful.
ABC Brushes in the UK is my go to online store for cheap and good quality synthetic brushes. Never had a bad batch from them, and they also sell seconds at trade shows (like Salute) where you can mix and match the different sizes.
The weight of choice for my friends and I were fender washers. Add to that magnetic mats added to the bottom of a container and you had the perfect mini transport
I've been painting a lot more stuff in this comfy older style. It's what I learned on back when I stared (2nd ed days) and while more modern techniques are faster and sometimes even look better, there's something to be said about good old fashioned mini painting. To me, I find it more mindful and relaxing.
I agree 100% for some reason it’s less stressful?
@@SnakeWorksStudio Yeah, that's some of it. Also I find it way easier to turn off my brain and just enjoy the process.
Probably because of familiarity, but who knows. :)
I also found myself coming back to it. Love the brighter contrasting colours. The grimdork modern colour schemes don’t do it for me. Too dark haha. Enchanted blue never died for me.
@@craigevans4694 Enchanted Blue. Chef's kiss.
I started painted models with Enamel paints back in the 80s, we used to thin the paint with spirits, in the same way you would thin Acrylic with water, a lot of us still use them now as they have different properties, reactivation is particularly useful, they are a staple of historic vehicle modellers still.
I think that unless you’re doing a diorama you don’t need to match the bases to the setting so long as they match your army theme
I agree completely! Is that how you do yours?
I'm a fan of using bases to compliment the mini at the risk of them standing out against the tabletop. When this happens, I pretend that they are carrying their native environment with them like an overpowering aura (or if I played Emperor's Children, like an overpowering cheap perfume that you can't escape LOL)
What did the poster paint taste like when you were licking it off of your bedroom wall?
I remember those elves from old magazines a friend gave me when I was a kid miss all the old fantasy stuff 😢
Rosemary and Co for brushes. Never been disappointed and they have good prices for sable brushes.
Where do you get yours from?
I believe figure painter of renown Kevin Dallimore still uses Plaka to this day.
It still leaves out decals (wet, stick on with Micro Set, form with Micro Sol, and blend with Lahmian Medium) but as it includes drybrushing it's better than the basic "how to draw an owl" guide of 2nd edition.
I remember getting the eavy metal book as a kid in the earaly 90s that had painting and modeling tips.
I believe the last name of the gentleman featured was pronounced (Mic-Vay)
Very helpful book. That is where I learned to do conversions.
I need to go through and try to do all of the scratch built stuff they had instructions for. My favorite as a kid was the plaster dome house cast from styrfoam balls in a bucket with sand
Mike Mcvey? He’s a hobby legend! Do you still have the book?
@@SnakeWorksStudio
I may still have the book in storage, as well as my old rogue trader book.
Sadly the majority of my collection has been packed away untouched for 25 years
@@SnakeWorksStudio
Mike McVey, that sounds about right.
I did an Abaddon Black dirty water wash on my resin Big Mek, and it stained the Leadbelcher panels. Guess it wasn't thin enough. Looks ok though.
"Make sure there's no.... Volcanic Eruptions"😂😂😂😂
11:47 For underneath the base plasticine actually does make sense. Although now there are maybe better ways to weight a model.
30:20 always done gold over brown.
Although these days i have a unique technique for metals i havent seen anyone else doing.
I have always had good luck buying from Dick Blick in the US. They've been in the mail-order art supplies business for 113 years so they know what they are doing. I've never got a bad brush from them and their prices are pretty good. They usually carry Kolinsky Sable brushes.
I am very sad to confess that I bought a box on Tetrion circa 1985 for precisely the purpose described here! Happy days!
Nice! 👍 is it just wall filler?
@@SnakeWorksStudio Yes, I think so. It was very smooth - like sponge mix - so didn't really give you a lot of texture. This was long before the days of 40k. I got White Dwarf back then because I collected loads of Citadel D&D figures.
I always used Wilko ready-mixed wall filler.
You do have to be a little careful with your paints. 'Acrylic' refers to the binder that holds the pigment together and on the surface of your model, while the _solvent_ -- the liquid that carries the pigment and binder and lets it flow onto the model -- can be different fluids. Water-based acrylics are all evenly miscible, but the Tamiya acrylics are alcohol-based, and while they can mostly be thinned with water and mixed with water-based acrylics, they work better with a water/alcohol mix for cleaning. And some acrylics are solvent-based and need white spirit for thinning and cleaning, which can be a pain, but solvent-based acrylics will usually dry hard faster than water-based acrylics.
Which sort of paint do you prefer?
Warhammer is nearly 50 year's old. Looking forward to see what is happening for that anniversary.
I’m hoping for a lot of reissue stuff
Monument Hobbies sable brushes are awesome, plus ProAcryl paints are my go-to.
Happy New Year 🎊
I wonder if "placquer" ended up getting bottled as smelly primer? Or was that just gesso?
Gold over brown gives a richer result looking more like 24k gold instead of the brassier finish from monochrome undercoating
Ezekiel is still sold as a metal miniature by Games workshop
The politician hands are killing me 😂
i assume goo-ash is guash?
Gouache. Did I say it wrong?
@SnakeWorksStudio wash with a soft g before the W is how i know it
You said "Plastic Model Prep", but I'm pretty sure that's a metal Striking Scorpion you're showing.
I knew someone would catch that!
LOL, all the minis shown during the plastics segment were metal, probably even lead at that
Way back when I was painting minis (before the internet), I would dry-brush almost everything. I'll be getting back into painting minis with the benefits of videos like this one.
Drybrishing is the way forward!
Black is still a crappy undercoat, and a reason now we see dull paints trying to get good coverage while losing any and all vibrancy. Go look at an Army Painter red, which will cover just fine, but will look quite muted. Unless I am painting a miniature that is 90% black, I'd pick basically anything else
Rosemary and co brushes
Where do you get yours from?
I love my lead miniatures. One day, they will be gone and i will be rich with them. ❤😂
Batch painting is by far faster I find
Volcanic eruptions 😂😂😂😂😂😂
Golden maple kolinsky are good and cheap
Urgh batch painting. Stop staring at me you dusty bastards, will get to the trim eventually 😂
goo ash